Amsterdam denim brands

Transcription

Amsterdam denim brands 21/12/2009
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Amsterdam denim brands
MO VELD, WGSN 21.12.09
Amsterdam is a fertile breeding ground for denim innovators. WGSN reports on the key
brands to watch.
Amsterdam's notoriously liberal, non-conformist casual spirit makes it one of today's most exciting denim
capitals. Labels combine a no-nonsense attitude with a strong sense of identity.
Leaders rather than followers in the denim arena, expect bold, innovative and often conceptual
reinterpretations of traditional themes.
G-Star Raw, Blue Blood, Denham the Jeanmaker, Atelier LaDurance, Kuyichi, Intoxica,
Gluejeans, Circle of Trust, Rockford Mills
Gluejeans
Denham the jeanmaker
G-Star Raw
Intoxica
Kuyichi
Blue Blood
G-Star Raw
http://www.wgsn.com/members/trends-info/fast-track/features/ti2009dec21_090253
13/01/2010
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G Star
G-Star at NY Fashion Week
G Star
G-Star Raw
G-Star at NY Fashion Week
A worldwide success, the brand is boosting its Just the Product motto through a strong brand identity
On September 15, the brand introduced the NY Raw Structor Pant at New York Fashion Week
The brand's youngest 3D silhouette, the pant serves as a design base for both male and female
markets
G-Star is active in Dutch fashion drafting some of the country's best design talent and participating in
the Arnhem Fashion Biennale
It also sponsors Lichting 2009, which brings together the best of Holland's seven fashion academies in
one show
The G-Star Raw Talent Award worth 10,000 Euro is an annual award at Lichting
On May 15 2009 G-Star Raw opened a three-storey flagship store on a corner of P.C. Hooftstraat in
Amsterdam
At 450sq m, this is one of G-Star's largest mono-brand stores
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Blue Blood
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Blue Blood
Founded in 2003 by Steve te Pas, Blue Blood is an ambitious new luxury denim and fashion house,
combining high fashion with a strong dose of craftsmanship through Japanese premium denim and
traditional tailoring
Blue Blood's designer label Avelon oozes sartorial connoisseurship
A highlight for spring/summer 2010 is the Steve Fat Slim, named after Steve McQueen
This 14.5oz organic-denim style combines a loose-fitted waist with legs that disproportionately narrow
to the ankle
Showing no less than 3.8-inch selvedge, this fatty style originates from having the Avelon #1 jean
altered by an expert tailor without losing the selvedge
Blue Blood's three Amsterdam stores serve as a blueprint for an ambitious retail roll-out plan
PC142 or First Store, located on luxury shopping strip PC Hooftstraat, is the main store, selling both
men's and womenswear
CS18, on wealthy residential Cornelis Schuytstraat, combines Blue Blood denim with vintage couture
finds in a boutique style
PS13 on Prinsenstraat emphasises the true-blue aficionado spirit of the brand
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Denham the Jeanmaker
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Denham the Jeanmaker
Blue Blood's founding designer Jason Denham launched his own brand Denham in spring 2009
Denham has 20 signature premium denim styles in over 35 washes, complemented by a collection of
tees and jackets
The brand's motto is "the truth is in the details" and philosophy "worship tradition: destroy convention"
The spring/summer 2010 collection called Foreign Office is heavily inspired by the Denham Garment
Library
Highlights for men include the Medic Intel Sportcoat inspired by a 1941 POW medic's sportcoat and
Cutter+ tapered jean, with a slim hem. It has a dropped front yoke creating a visual lower rise
For women look to the Spy Boro Field Jacket influenced by a WW2 Sahariana field jacket and key low-
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fitting drop-crotch denim styles Genie and Lady, inspired by traditional Moroccan and Turkish harem
pants
Another big buzz for spring is the chino
Denham's headquarters are on Prinsengracht, one of Amsterdam's historic canals in the 9 Little Streets
area
A small storytelling store set-up includes the original tailor's scissors from the logo. It also introduces
legendary Japanese jeanmaker Hiro, who not only delivers traditionally crafted selvedge, but also
Denham's very own For Goodness Sake sake
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Atelier LaDurance
Atelier LaDurance
Located and produced in Provence, Atelier LaDurance's founder Gerard Backx started the label to
supply his Amsterdam shops with denim in 2002
It started out as a hobby project, but soon became one of the premium denim labels to watch
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One of the few remaining specialist factories in Provence produces the denim using artisanal Japanese
selvedge denim
The collection concentrates on original late 40s styles and a classic functional French aesthetic
Graphic designer Boy Bastiaens created the brand's distinctive identity, which includes the gold logoembossed heavy dark brown grained-leather patch, genuine Vichy-check pocket lining (blue for men,
red for women) and repair capsule attached to each pair of jeans
The straight-cut, low-waist, slim tapered-leg Prescot and the baggier Royal with adjustable backstrap
are the centerpieces of the men's unwashed-denim and khaki-coloured twill collection
The streamline women's range compromises of only one jean - the low-waisted, tapered-leg
Versatilette with western-style hip pockets - and a skirt adapted from the Royal cut
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Kuyichi
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Kuyichi
Established in 2001 by Dutch NGO Solidaridad, Kuyichi was the very first organic green denim label
Today Kuyichi is respected for both its lead role in developing innovative sustainable materials and its
strong collections
There are three lines: Pure Denim, focusing on Kuyichi's core values; Pure Premium, the most
authentic and purist denim range; and Pure Plus, a small directional women's line with an 80s fashion
edge
Kuyichi also uses recycled PET, hemp, Lenpur, linen and leftover Japanese denim and recycled cotton
For spring/summer 2010, Kuyichi builds on the trend for looser fits like the boyfriend, an upsized hot
pant and a mid-thigh skirt for women, as well as regular slim-to-loose tapered fits for men
Kuyichi is currently preparing to launch the autumn/winter 2010/11 collection Love the World
Kuyichi partners with fast-growing independent umbrella label Made-By, also initiated by Solidaridad,
which enables customers to track and trace their purchases down to the sustainable and fair tradestyle manufacturing, mills and plants
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Intoxica
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Intoxica
Intoxica Jeans is also a member of Made-By
Founded by Kentroy Yearwood in June 2005, Intoxica uses only the highest quality, artisanally
produced and 100% sustainable Japanese denim, bamboo and recycled paper
With its environmental approach, it is bravely pioneering on the new luxury frontier
The collections feature an all-over slender yet loose, comfortable and layered look with an emphasis
on dropped crotches and necklines
This sits well with Scandinavian and other Northern European high-end fashion boutiques
One of the key features of Intoxica Jeans are the knee-high turn-ups
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Gluejeans
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Gluejeans
Gluejeans was launched during Amsterdam Fashion Week in July 2008
It was the winner of the prestigious Dutch Design Award for best fashion product that year, with the
highly distinctive innovation of using glue instead of stitching
Developed by the multi-discipline Dutch design duo G+N, until recently the jeans were only available
made to order from Droog Design's flagship and Gluejeans Amsterdam fitting room in the notorious
redlight district
With the 300-run limited-edition Gluejeans #1 nearly sold out, the new collection combines glue with
stitching, including jackets from reversed jeans, with a line of bags to follow
For the new collection, the glue technique has been further developed for more regular lines and
green-grey has been added to the black and red glue finishes
A new sustainable laccase enzyme is used to bleach the denim at 30 degrees Celcius, giving it a
greyish tone, and lowering the brand's eco-footprint further
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Circle of Trust
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Circle of Trust
Amsterdam-based brand Circle of Trust has positioned itself as a premium-denim market challenger
Making serious waves in the women's and kidswear markets, it delivers highly fashionable styles with
a premium denim look and a fair trade business ethic under the 100 Euro price point
Founded in 2005, Circle of Trust has over 200 selling points in Holland alone, and recently started
exporting to Scandinavia and Belgium
Fits range from denim leggings to boyfriend styles and come in a wide range of washes from classic,
vintage and destroy treatments to progressive tie-dye, retro, bleach and painted
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The striking extra-long leather patch across the waistband and the knotted circle logo are strong
brand motifs
Its commitment towards a sustainable ethical future makes the brand stand out
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Rockford Mills
With an autumn/winter 2010/11 launch planned, Rockford Mills aims to challenge premium denim
snobbery through a mid-market label with a high-end, vintage-inspired flavour
Initiator Kees Scholten - until recently creative director at Tommy Hilfiger - aspires to combine the
best Northern African manufacturers and European mills to deliver denim for a sound price, including a
good retail mark-up
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© WGSN 2009
13/01/2010

Amsterdam denim brands

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