Mercedes 107 Sun Visor Removal

Transcription

Mercedes 107 Sun Visor Removal
1) Remove the rearview mirror, Hold with both hands and rotate toward you as you sit in the
driver's seat. It is spring loaded. It will pop out.
2) Then there are 3 screws holding the mirror base plate on - remove them
3) Next remove the courtesy lamp unit and disconnect.
4) Now remove the sun visor "end" catch (in driver's seat - right) It only was one screw holding it.
5) Remove a "hidden" screw on your left then pull the
molding away.
6) Next remove the 2 screws holding the base of the
sun visor on.
Sun Visor Removal and Replacement on the 1988
560SL
Remove the mirror by forcing the left or right edge
downward and to the side of the car. The mirror is held
in by spring loaded ball bearings. Don't be afraid to
really force it. Reinstalling it requires placing one ball
bearing in the opening and then forcing the other ball
into position. Remove all three Phillips head screws
that you will find under the mirror in it's base.
Remove the visor inside mount from its receiver and
then remove the Phillips head screw located in the
receiver. Remove the light by prying with a flat head
screwdriver on the inside ( towards the center of the
car) edge of the light. It will rotate downward. Unplug
the two electrical connectors.
Located towards each A pillar is a recessed Phillips
head screw in the upper trim piece. Remove the screw,
or at least unscrew it. Mine stayed in the molding
piece. Now pull the molding trim piece towards the
center of the car to remove it. The passengers side
molding is moved towards the center of the car to
remove it.
Once the upper trim is removed you will see the base
of the visor and the wiring. You will have to remove the
tape holding the wires against the windshield upper
frame( note where the tap is for reassemble). Then
remove the two outer edge ( not the center one) Philip
screws on the visor base ( the larger screw goes on
the outside hole).
To remove the visor completely the you have to
separate the mirror light positive wire completely. The
photo shows the jump piece the Mercedes uses on the
wire harness. Pull the plastic covered unit of the
exposed metal connector. I had to use pliers to hold
the connector while pulling the plastic covered unit off.
To complete the removal of the visor wiring you have
to remove the ground wire which is screwed to one of
the top aluminum hold down points. You will have two
small Phillips screws to detach, one for each visor.
To assemble just do it in the reverse order.
Some notes on reassembly:
Again make sure you know where the tape goes or you run out of wire when you put the light
assembly back in. Just re-tape the wires with the same size and place and you will be OK.
Clean everything with Vinylex while it is apart. these parts are vinyl not leather.
I had to remove the recessed screw in photo #4 for reassembly.
To install the trim piece. 1st mount the visor with the 2 screws. 2nd route the wire and tape it into
position. 3rd slide the trim piece into the a pillar opening, while positioning the wire and screw the
visor recessed base ( photo #3) into its how to hold the unit. 4th install everything else and enjoy.
Note: Commonly broken sun-visor clips are available at budsbenz.com
Mercedes 107 Thermostat Replacement and Modification
An Experienced Mechanics Views on Overheating,
This pictorial is to show you how to modify your new thermostat to keep your temperatures down
if you are having overheating problems. The part about modification, is really a work around fix to
a more difficult set of problems.
I have never seen auto maker more plagued by engine heat control problems than Mercedes. In
my opinion the Mercedes have cooling systems that are just enough when in "new" condition to
get the job done. In all fairness most of our beloved cars are 20 plus years old, and still do a good
job, but the cooling system is not transferring the heat from the engine to the air, with the best of
efficiency. You can change water pumps, radiators, fan clutches, t-stats, do a coolant flush with
acid, temp sensors, temp gauges, and on and on, till your are blue in the face. Even after all that,
SOME of the cars are just not going to run at the proper temp. Overheating your car is a very bad
thing. You can blow head gaskets, warp heads, seize bearings, and a whole host of other
problems. So thermostat modification is a good way to make your car drivable again and give you
peace of mind, if you have tried just about everything else.
My recommendation on t-stat modification is that it is a LAST ditch approach. Replace or repair
all the items I listed a few lines above, before you do this modification. You may find that one of
them was your problem. Unfortunately none of them solve my problem, so I did the t-stat
modification.
I came up with this modification after racking my brain on how to get my ole '84 300d to run
between 82-90 degrees Celsius. After the
modification, I could NOT get the car to overheat even
with the air on. The only draw back to this
modification is that, the car does take longer to get up
to operating temp. So if you are in a cold climate I will
make some suggestions in the pictorial on what you
can do.
Now understand that this modification is not a
Mercedes fix, it is my fix. It keeps the car running at
the proper operating temp and that is what I am after.
I weighed the trade off of, taking out the engine,
tearing it down, hot tanking it, rebuilding it, and then I
might have proper cooling temps. Instead I took a
new t-stat and made my own set of improvements
which was a lot faster and MUCH cheaper. It works
for me, decide for yourself.
So follow along as we replace and modify a coolant tstat........
In the shop as the "pictorial" mule, is the ole '79 300d.
This car also likes to run on the hot side, like way hot
even with the air off. So I will do a t-stat modification
while we are changing the old one out. Please do this
when the car is cold.
Here is where the rubber meets the road. Notice the
proper orientation of the t-stat. The disc on the end of
the t-stat is there for a purpose and always goes
toward the engine. Make sure the new one goes in
the same way. It is possible to install the t-stat in backwards in these cars, and then you will have
a hot problem.
The new t-stat and o ring. The part of the t-stat that you are looking at is the part that will face the
radiator. The disc is what it is resting on. Always use the new gasket that fits on the outside of the
t-stat. Do not reuse the old one it will probably leak.
Ok here is where we will go into the modification. I have already gotten another t-stat ready that is
modified.
If you will notice there is a series of 3/16 inch holes that I drilled in the rim. What this does, is
allow some coolant flow in all conditions. It will not affect the operation of the t-stat but, will
increase the time of warm up on a cold day slightly.
Since the purpose of the t-stat is to remain closed when the engine is cold, and slowly open as it
hits a predetermined temp, this will delay the opening since cold radiator fluid is trickling in.
On a hot day it helps the t-stat equalize the temp using the entire capacity of the radiator. I know
that this modification fly's in the face of logic, but it's been done like this on several cars and has
ended any cooling problems. I also know that 5 holes is best for summer use and 2-3 holes is
better for winter use. I have experimented with many different hole and temp factors and seem to
have found a good blend for Atlanta's climate.
If you live where its really cold then I would do 2 holes and start from there. In the dead of winter
1 hole may even suffice. The key it to empower you to see what works best for your car and
climate. When it gets really cold here, I will put in my 3 hole t-stat and use it till late spring.
Install the t-stat back into the housing like in the earlier pic, install the 3 bolts with some anti seize
if you have it. Just tighten them down snug. Remember you are in an all aluminum housing and it
will not take too much torque to strip the bolts. Make sure that you get the t-stat right side up.
There may be an arrow or small jiggle hole that should point to the sky when you install.
Refill with Mercedes coolant and the appropriate mix of water, run and check for leaks.
There now... your a pro thermo techy!
Mercedes Benz 107 AC / Heat System Trouble Shooting
Got Heat or AC System Problems ?
Mercedes 107 Heat System / AC Problems and Remedies
There are a number of reasons that the heat system, air conditioning and climate control fail or
just don't work well on the Mercedes 107 series models, while there are multiple issues that occur
to create these problems, there are some affordable solutions to their repair and here are some
main reasons and their solutions.
#1 Climate Control Servo Unit. During the Seventies, German cars were not noted for their
effective air conditioners, and these SLs are no exception. Except for the servo units in the
automatic climate-control systems of the 1977-1980 450SLs, which seem to fail every three
years, the air conditioners don't break particularly often. "They just don't cool well".
Has your 1976 to 1984 Mercedes' Climate Control System stopped functioning?
For example: when you try to select blower / air conditioning... is heat all you can get? ...no air? In
fact, no matter how you set the controls... you can't any-longer actually turn-off the heat? The
most likely problem: Your vehicle has a defective climate control servo. (To verify your servos'
proper function, while you place your ear as close to the unit as possible so as to listen to how it
reacts when it receives power, simply have someone turn the ignition switch (key) to the
accessory position. Immediately as the accessory position is engaged, you should easily be able
to hear a "whirring sound" coming from within the servo unit - which sound results from the small
motor which powers the unit turning gears inside of it...like a clock. If no such sound can be
heard: your servo is defective.
Replacing the Servo can be expensive...up to $1,200.00 for a new unit and from $350.00 and up
for a rebuilt one. And you know what? Believe it or not, with the use of a few simple tools, ( a 3/8"
spanner and a screw driver) in under 1 hour, you yourself can actually easily fix this
problem...That is, you can simply remove your defective servo and replace it with one that
functions.
Important Note: The old servo units are made of plastic that cracks causing them to fail, look for
newer aluminum body units with a 2 year + warranty, core charge may apply. One place to get
aftermarket aluminum units is at German Star for $465.
Servo Replacement Alternative. 1977 to 1980 Climate Control Servo Bypass Conversion Kit
For use to convert 1977 to 1980 automatic climate control servo to a manual system. If your heat
has failed again and you do not want to spend another $400-600 for a climate control servo and
amplifier maybe it is time to just convert to a manual system. It will not be as nice as the original
automatic system, but at least you will have heat when you need it. This kit comes with a new
manual control valve, hose section, splice fitting, four German hose clamps, a 5 foot control cable
and complete instructions on how to properly install this kit yourself.
#2 Blower Motor Issues. If your blower motor has been intermittent or some days it just will not
come on until you drive for a while, or not at all, your motor contact brushes are most likely at the
end of their life. At an age of 15 years old or more heater motor brushes are very prone to failing
at any time from wear and age. This is something you may just want to replace as a preventative
measure. If they have not failed yet they most likely will sometime soon. Repair Broken Heater
Box
Brush Replacement Guide Order Brushes
#3 Center Vents Don't Open or Stay Open. If you own a late-model 107 that uses vacuum
actuators to operate the air distribution flaps, then you have probably experienced loss of function
of the center vents (among other air distribution problems). Reports have been shared of fixes
ranging from "propping open the center vent" to plugging vacuum lines to allow air circulation
from the vents. While the most common cause for loss of function may be degraded and failed
vacuum pod diaphram's, other causes do exist and can be more onerous. The following pages
and pictures are offered to shed some illumination on the subject of "why do my center vents not
open/stay open?"
Vacuum Elements Repair and Replacement
Mercedes Vacuum System Troubleshooting and Repair Basics
Mercedes Benz 107 Roadster Dash Top Installation
Tom Hundt's Infomonger Pages
Mercedes-Benz Tinkering - Dash Cap Installation
On October 5, 2003, I installed a "Dashtop" brand dash cap on my '83 380SL. The
original dash was cracked and dull looking (which is typical for these cars) and this
totally renewed its looks.
The Situation
Here's the way the dash looked. Notice the big honkin' hole, revealing the orange foam
that is inside the dashboard.
Here's what came in the box. The plastic top, some glue, and some instructions. The
top is made of thin but flexible plastic, about 1/8 inch thick all around. It looks like
cheap plastic but is made with precision, and (it turns out) fits really well.
Cutting the Hole For the Temperature Sensor
I made a template using a piece of paper, and aligned it with the vent openings. I laid it
on the original dash, and marked the spot where the temperature sensor was.
Then, I moved the template to the dashtop, and marked the spot with a sharp object. I
cut an appropriate hole with a handy utility knife
The temperature sensor sits in a tube with slits in the cap. The edges of the hole you
cut end up being hidden under the cap.
Installation
Slipping it on. I didn't use the glue at all — the fit was very snug.
Also, I was worried about being able to remove the instrument (gauge) cluster in the
future, and didn't want to risk damage caused by stuck glue. (The top curves around
and into the cowling of the gauges slightly.)
Much much better than new. An old boss of mine used to say that. I think it's
appropriate.
[Home] [Feedback] © T. Hundt - All rights reserved. [email protected]
file:///H|/Emilio%20Private/SL%20Roadster/Repair%20Manual/Merced...20Information%20Common%20Repairs%20Page%20Service%20Manual's.txt
Cruise Control Problems:
Go to General Development Laboratories - Home Page
See trouble shooting.
1976-1980 Vacuum Actuator, 10-pin Amplifier System
1981-1993 Motor Actuator, 14-pin Amplifier System
and check the actuator and the amplifier. Then see Site Table of
Contents for Replacing, Repairing, Rebuilding Amplifiers & Actuators
Engine Hard to Start when warm
There are many reasons why the engine would be difficult to start,
Some 450 SLs suffered from vapor lock and hard re-start because of
the position of the catalytic converter.
Another possibility is the fuel filter and fuel accumulator may be
at fault or the pump may be the cause.
The problem occurs particularly after the engine has been running
due to the pressure relief valve located at the back of the pump
inside. It is activated by a small spring and a metal cone which in
time sticks and does not allow pressure to be relieved.
As the pump is driven by a permanently excited electric motor the
pressure is reduced. After stopping, the fuel accumulator maintains
pressure in the system to facilitate starting and with this pressure
if the valve is stuck it develops an inner leak.
If you tap the pump firmly it releases the pressure valve and the
engine starts again. When the tapping becomes frequent, it is time
to replace the pump.
Mercedes knows this and they provide a Check Valve which is to be
installed by replacing the existing hollow screw on the pipe
connection to the pump, effectively providing a secondary pressure
relief valve and avoiding having to buy a new pump.
(Check valve $12.98, cap nut $1.49
SL Window Switch Repair
Two 4" screwdrivers
One small file 6" or smaller
One brush for cleaning
One pair of tweezers 6" for replacing springs & balls
One Q-tip for cleaning
One 6" strip of emery paper (fine-grit)
Step 1. Take the switch out of the console by means of a 4" standard
screwdriver. This can be done by lifting the switch part of the way
file:///H|/Emilio%20Private/SL%20Roadster/Repair%2...20Common%20Repairs%20Page%20Service%20Manual's.txt (1 of 3) [4/17/2011 7:21:13 AM]
up, and out, & unplug the wiring block. Some plug into the side,
some into the back of the switch. The block plugs in only one way
and switches are not interchangeable. With the switch in hand, take
two screwdrivers, 4" type, & pry off the chrome cover. Do this
slowly, as it holds the switch together and you want to see how it
works for reassembly. (it's pretty simple) Two steel balls, two
springs, two brass rockers. What goes wrong, is, the contacts on the
switch get corroded and need to be cleaned for current to flow
through.
Step 2. Take a small file, I carry a 6" jewelers file (fine-cut) and
a piece of emery paper (fine-grit) to clean the contact points.
Reassemble the switch and the window will work.
Note about the window switch: Do not hold the switch down any longer
than to close or open the window. There is no limit switch on these
cars. If your window moves slowly, clean the contacts to gain full
power.
Should take about 20 minutes
Signal / Flasher Problems
Have your hazards or turn signals been problematic?
107.044 117.985 V8 450SL CIS fuel inj. years 1976-1980.
Hazards and turn signals share the same flasher.
Do your hazards works?
If not, then this flasher is likely to be the issue.
The flasher is part of the hazard switch.
You need to remove the ashtray, the mount for the ashtray, take out
the two screws that hold the wood console in place, the shift boot
(rubber around gear selector).
Carefully lift the front of the wood, roughly one half inch, then
slide the wood section back and it should be off.
On the bottom of the hazard switch is the flasher.
You may be able to fix this by cleaning the corroded contacts
inside, 50/50 risk that it repairs or breaks.
Center Console Removal:
1. Remove ash tray
2. Remove 2 screws from rear of ashtray holder
3. Remove ashtray holder. Pry out right side first and then
disconnect electrical connector on left side.
4. Remove 2 screws from wood console
5. Remove wood by sliding to rear to disengage dowel.
Stereo Removal & Replacement
Pull the faceplate off the radio.
Remove the ashtray and tray holder. When removing the ashtray frame
you have to twist from the passenger side toward the driver side
because there is an electrical connection on the driver side. Remove
the two screws in the back. Pull the wood fascia (of the AC
controls) down and out from the bottom.
Push down the two tabs sticking up from the space where the wood
fascia was and the radio unit slides out.
(remove the face plate from the radio and there are 2 locking bars
holding it in place ,1 each side, straight screwdriver)
Go to Find Car Audio/Video Gear that Fits Your Vehicle at
Crutchfield! and buy this wiring harness (again this is for my 560).
Wire everything up and away you go.
I just pulled the 2 knobs off, and what I'm calling the 'faceplate'
is actually a thin mylar type printed plastic insert . I just popped
it off with a pen knife, and that exposed the 2 'locking bars' that
were secured by the screws
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Mercedes Combination Switch Replacement
Note: while this may not be the same Mercedes model as yours, the procedures are relatively the
same.
If you have ever had a problem with your combination switch that controls your wipers, blinkers,
window washer or high beams for your headlights. If any one of these functions is defective, then
your combo switch will have to be replaced.
So follow along as I show you how to replace this switch....
This is the switch that we will replace.
Remove the black cover from the steering column.
Slide it off the two stalks.
Remove the knee panel from under the steering column.
Pull down one of the connectors and disconnect.
Here is the connector that was disconnected.
Remove the 2nd connector.....
....and disconnect.
Remove the screws that hold the wires to the manifold. Make sure to remember where each one
goes.
Do the same for the top screw.
Now remove the bottom screw that holds the assembly to the steering column....
...and the upper screw.
Tilt the assembly out and gently pull away from the steering column.
Slide the wiring harness out gently.
Here is the removed combination switch. You will remove the wiring harness that has the smaller
of the two connectors along with the cruise control stalk and attach it to the new combination
switch.
The assembly is then assembled just like you removed it.
After securing the assembly to the steering column, install the rubber cover....
Now enjoy the new function of the combination switch.
Mercedes Injection Pump O Ring Replacement
With the ultra low sulfur diesel fuel in all filling stations across the country, the may find your 1986
and later model Mercedes leaking fuel through the injection pump rubber O rings. Fortunately the
1985 and earlier cars do not have the dreaded rubber O ring to deteriorate. Doing the job is not
that hard and it takes one special Mercedes tool to remove the stub pipe.
Your car hard to start after sitting overnight or it may be leaking diesel fuel all over the place.
Either one may point to bad O rings.
I did this job on a customers 1986 300SDL. The DVD was also shot doing this job and has lots of
extra tips and techniques.
same.
So lets not cry over the lower sulfur fuel lets just get your leak repaired.....
Here are the tools for the job and the gaskets. You do not have to have the large manifold gasket
if you don't want to remove the main intake body. Notice the large serrated socket used to
remove the stub pipe.
A leaky mess on the top of the injection pump.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the crossover pipe to the main intake body.....
Remove the 2 bolts and bracket holding the crossover pipe to the engine.
Swing away from the valve cover.
Loosen the fuel lines at the injectors....
....then push the off to the side.
Remove the 1st 3 lines on top of the injection pump....
Then remove the 2nd 3 lines..
Remove the locking bolts and securing tabs with a T-30 torx bit.
Remove only 1 stub pipe at a time. When you remove the pipe a small spring will be underneath
resting in the center of the copper crush washer. Do NOT loose the spring.
Here is the stub pipe and the spring I was warning you about. Note the O ring on the end of the
stub pipe that you will be replacing.
New copper washer ready to receive the spring and stub pipe. Do not drop the copper washer in
the IP either. Do NOT remove the assembly that the washer is sitting on!
If you want to torque the stub pipe then do the following. First step is 22 ft.-lb. and break loose.
Second step is again 22 ft-lb. and break loose. Third and final step is 26 ft.-lb. This should
properly load the o-ring.
Now do this 5 more times and you are done installing the O rings.
Reinstall the lines on the injection pump....
...and on the injectors...
Reinstall the crossover pipe with a new gasket....
Reinstall the hold down bracket and bolts.
Now you must crank the car for a while before it moves all the air out of the fuel lines. After a
while it will start and run rough.
Keep at it and it will finally smooth out and run fine if you installed everything like you were
supposed to.
You should now have a nice leak free injection pump!
Mercedes Injector Nozzle Replacement
same.
This is a pictorial that I have been waiting to do for quite some time. With all the information flying
around about the quality of replacement nozzles for the Mercedes Benz, I was especially pleased
to run across the Italian made Bosio nozzles. I have resisted for some time, the urge to buy
replacement Bosch nozzles, knowing that it is a roll of the dice, whether they will spray properly.
My friend with a Mercedes shop had a 240d engine on the stand and showed me the result of the
reman Bosch fuel injectors. After about 1200 miles 2 of the injectors started spraying a stream of
fuel, not a mist. Well it melted 2 of the pistons, and is currently getting a rebuild.
I have been turning wrenches on cars for over 24 years, and immediatley noticed the super high
quality and precesion of the Bosio nozzles, when I opened the package. These little gems are a
very important part of the fuel injector and responsible for proper attomization of the fuel.
So I decided to install the nozzles on a car I could do a long term test and the winner was a 1984
300 d with 217k on the clock. As best I can tell, the car has the original injectors and nozzles
installed. The car ran pretty well, but was a little smokey at start up and I new that it needed
some fresh nozzles.
So follow along as I show you how to properly install the Bosio nozzles.
This is a pic of one of the nozzles. A super high quality piece that you can tell was really
machined well.
Tools needed for the job are: needle nose pliers, 8mm 1/4 drive socket, 17mm combo wrench, 1
1/16 socket and breaker bar. Not shown is the 5 heat shields that go between the injector and
the head and a 22mm combo wrench. The heat shields must be changed when the injector are
removed.
First we are going to be removing the injector lines. I recommend that you do this on a cold
engine and clean it at the car wash before you do this job. Pay particular attention to cleaning
around the injectors, so that no debris will enter the engine after the injector is removed.
Injector lines have been removed. The nuts on the lines are 17mm. Be careful, go slow and
make a diagram or label each line. Each line is unique to each injector and its real easy to get
them mixed up and you will spend a long time trying to figure which line goes where.
The return lines have also been removed. The return lines on this car "looked" fine, but they
were leaking through the pores of the rubber and were hard as plastic. I installed a new set of
injector return lines when I put everything back together.
Remove the injector with your socket. Only work on one cylinder at a time.
Injector removed and ready to be disasimbled.
To seperate the lower half of the injector from the upper half, I recommend that you clamp the
lower half in a vise. Make sure to clamp only on the hex portion, not the smooth part. I used
paper towels to catch any diesel fuel that may drip out.
Use a 22mm wrench and loosen the top portion of the injector. Only loosen it at this stage, but do
not remove. You may have to tap the wrench with a rubber mallet, it will be really tight if its the
original.
When the top is loose, turn the injector upside down and over a clean paper towel. There are
some small pieces that you MUST not lose. I do this in my tool cart so nothing drops on the floor
and bounces or rolls away.
As you unscrew the injector do it very slowly and remove the lower body portion very carefully. If
you remove the body too fast the nozzle will probably fall out.
When removed upside down, you keep the nozzle from falling out of the injector. Notice that
when the pressure of the lower body has been removed from the internal spring, the nozzle
assembly does not sit flat. It will when the lower body is reattached.
This is the injector with the body removed. You can see the nozzle on the end.
Nozzle holder insert and body need a good cleaning.
The nozzle holder insert only fits in the injector one way.
Nozzle holder insert removed for cleaning.
This is the underside of the nozzle holder insert.
Underneath the nozzle holder insert is the thrust pin, and it sits inside the compression spring.
This is the compression spring that is inside the upper portion of the injector. I like to turn the
injector upside down flat on a clean paper towel and then lift the injector up. You can see the
spring and shim on the top. Sometimes the shim will stick in the injector. Just tap it with your
hand and it will come out. There are many different thickness of shims, so that is why I tell you to
do one injector at a time. Don't mix and match parts!
Cleaned lower portion of the injector. I cleaned all the parts with brake cleaner to ensure that no
foreign material was in the injector.
I just cleaned the inside with spray brake cleaner. It really did not need it in my case, but I figured
I would do it since it was apart.
These are the parts inside the injector in the order they fit. If you get any of these parts back in
the wrong order or upside down, then it WILL NOT WORK properly. The only piece that you do
not see here is the nozzle.
Just so you could see what the old nozzle looks like with the needle valve out. DO NOT take
your new nozzles apart!!!! Just leave them alone and install then right out of the box. If you want
to mess around with your old ones after you get the car running, be my guest. But leave the new
ones be. You have been warned.
Old nozzle and new Bosio nozzle.
After cleaning all the parts and letting them air dry, I installed them back in the exact order I found
them in. I then took some clean diesel fuel and lubricated the inside of the injector. Don't put
them back together dry, they are lubricated in a diesel fuel environment, so that is what I used.
Then I set the new nozzle on top of the nozzle holder insert. Note that is does not sit flush, it will
when you reassemble the injector. Remember the compression spring is not yet under
compression, so the nozzle sits high at this point.
I lubricated the inside of the lower body before I install it to the upper body. Then just screw the
injector down and you should see just what this pic shows. Now take the injector back to the
vise and tighten it down to between 70-80 Newton Meters.
Injector ready to be installed with a new heat shield. Do not reuse the old heat shield.
Clean the injector hole with a paper towel and long screwdriver. Just be very careful and be
gentile. You are just trying to clean any oil or debris that is on the surface where the heat shield
will sit.
Cleaned seat area. The heat shield goes into the hole with the concave side facing up. Just like
in the previous pic. Do not install it upside down, it won't seal properly.
I use the small needle nose pliers to help with the installation of the heat shield. Notice the
concave side is facing up.
A proper install of the heat shield. Next is to install the injector and torque it to 70-80 Newton
Meters.
Now do that 4 more times, for each injector. Remember to only work on one injector at a time.
After you finish all 5 injectors, then reattach the fuel lines and tighten everything up.
I cranked the car for maybe 20 seconds and she started right up. My first impressions were
WOW! Hardly any smoke at start-up! A nice idle that was SUPER SMOOTH! Great throttle
response and VERY little smoke at high revs. I think I am more than a little impressed with the
Bosio nozzles!
Since this is a long term test, I will update this pictorial with more driving impressions and reports
with how the nozzles are doing.
My initial recommendation.....you gotta get some of these for your Mercedes! They WILL breath
new life into it. Any Mercedes diesel will benefit from a super high quality nozzle assembly.
**************New Info added*************
So what happens if you have a leak in the body of the injector after you have it running? See
below.
You will sometimes get leaking at the middle of the injector because there is still carbon and
debris in the bottom of the injector where it seal against the nozzle. I just installed this set on my
1981 300d and it ran like a new car. Got rid of 100% of the "knocking" and "hammering" but 2 of
the injectors started to leak after a few miles. Hmmm... Well I took them out of the engine one at
a time and took them apart again.....
I took a mason jar and filled it 1/3 of the way up with Brake Parts Cleaner. This is just about the
strongest solvent you can find in the auto parts store. I them took the bottom of the injector off...
See the flakes of carbon on the silver ring about the 8 o'clock position.....
Soak the bottom in the cleaner for about 30 minutes...
Now its nice and clean with no carbon. Now put the injector back together and reinstall it in the
car and test run it.
Now that was not so hard, was
Mercedes Master Vacuum Switch and Door Panel Removal
I realized that I did not have some of the "basic" maintenance items for those new to the
Mercedes diesels. I will start a whole series devoted to basic maintenance of these cars, just for
those new to either car repair, or just new to the diesels. The car used in this pictorial is a 1985
300cd. The procedures for almost any Mercedes will be almost the same.
Well here is one of those jobs that seems to be a mystery to many. The master vacuum switch is
one little item that can reek havoc on your vacuum system. Why you may ask? They tend to leak
after 20 plus years and cause other components to either not work or work improperly. This little
switch is the "brain" of the central locking system on the Mercedes diesel. It receives the vacuum
supply and via internal valving, directs it in one of two hoses to the rest of the vacuum
components (i.e. door locks, trunk lock, fuel door lock). Almost everyone I have seen if original
leaks. Time and use degrade the inside and leaks develop. Leaking vacuum switches will drain
the vacuum reservoir and render the central locking system null when bled down. They can also
cause the car to fail to shut off if the leak is big enough. Yes the CD was getting slow to shut off if
the drivers door lock switch was in the lock position, so I just made sure it was always unlocked
when I went to shut her down. I got tired of that foolishness and here we are.
The car that is getting the transplant is the 1985 300CD that I have been driving for the last
couple of months. I decided to show the door panel removal and some vacuum tracing tricks to
find those other pesky leaks. Yes I found another leak where most people would not even look.
I am definitely all smiles after finally doing what I should have done many months ago, but just did
not have the time due to school. I can only stress that this is one of those jobs that is well worth
the effort.
So lets not waste time and dive right in.....
Basic Philips and flat blade screwdrivers, door panel removal tool is recommended to decrease
the chance of damage and of course the master vacuum switch. Depending on the model and
year your master vacuum switch may be of the white design and slightly different, but functions
the same. Also not shown is the hot melt glue gun I used to reattach some vinyl to the door
panel.
This obviously is a coupe, so you sedan drivers will have a shorter door but panel removal is the
same.
On coupes only, remove the end chrome plate.....
Very gently with a small flat blade, remove the plastic insert at the door handle.....
Pull away and expose the hidden screw......
Remove the hidden screw......
Gently remove the chrome insert......
Remove the door striker guard.....
Upside down shot of the 2 large Philips screws holding the door handle to the door...
Remove the 2 screws........
Gently pull away from the panel....
Now for the fun part, removing the actual panel. Care must be exercised and patience when
removing these. They are very fragile and cost a fortune from Mercedes if damaged...
Here is where the door panel tool is a must. Do NOT use a screwdriver, if you must use
something else use a very wide putty knife. The screwdriver is too narrow and can break the
press board. Take the tool and gently pry the clips out of the door. They are plastic and will pop
right out. Work your way from the side to the bottom....
Now here is where the beginner makes the big mistake, the door pocket. Some panels have an L
shaped clip the holds the end of the door pocket to the door. If you pull the door panel straight
out like I have done before you will snap off the L clip and have a floppy door pocket. So after all
the out clips are loose gently lift up on the panel and the L clip should disengage.
The inside rubber window trim is held on the metal portion of the door and the door panel, and is
removed by just lifting up with both hands....
This is the map pocket L bracket on the back of the panel. On the sedans this bracket is much
more pronounced and longer....
This is the hole in the door that the bracket slides into......
Here is the back of the door panel. Many of the panel clips on the edge will probably be broken
so now is a good time to replace them. Trust me do it now and the panel will not flip and flop
around....
Under the door panel is the plastic moisture shield. Do not discard this and be very gentle when
removing it....
Slowly peel the barrier back to expose the guts of the door...
Here is the master vacuum switch in all its glory....
New switch getting ready to take its rightful place.....
Mark the bracket on the door, as the holes are slotted and must be installed in the correct
orientation on install. Remove the screws holding the retaining bracket....
Gently disengage the push/pull rod from the top of the switch....
Carefully pull the assembly through the door to have better working room....
Remove one line at a time so as to not get them mixed up. All three lines are yellow but one is
solid, one has a red strip and the other has a green strip. If you want to at this point you should
get out your had vacuum pump and test the lines and see if you have any leaks other than the
switch. Since the door panel is already off it save lots of time....
As I removed a line I installed it on the new switch to make it easier...
All lines installed and ready for another 20 years.
Switch installed in the correct orientation and push/pull rod connected...
Now is the time to make sure the lines are secured and NOT touching the window track. This is
how line leaks develop.
Check to make sure the lines have enough slack when pulled against the door....
Zip tie them to secure them. The factory used a tape that looks like masking tape and is usually
past its prime.
Now is the time to grease the tracks, tighten bolts, check the plastic sliders and do a good once
over while the panel is off.
I used silicone spray to lube the linkage....
Reinstalling the moisture barrier takes a nice spray adhesive like this...
Spray the edges where the old glue was and re-secure the moisture barrier.
I made sure that all the door panel clips were in good shape with no broken ones being
reinstalled.....
Since the panel is 21 years old the edges on the back were getting loose, so I used a hot melt
glue gun to reattach the vinyl to the board. Works like a charm and will not come loose again.
Hot melt glue is one of the best adhesives for this type of work I know of...
Panel back one is just the reversal of removal. Wow its nice to have that back on the door.
I knew that I still had a leak somewhere in the yellow line with a red stripe. So I checked the
passenger door vacuum diaphragm and it was fine. Then I went to the trunk and tested the
vacuum lock....
Remove the plastic access panel and then the two screws holding the vacuum element to the
sheet metal. Use your hand pump and test both nipples and then the lines. I found the element
fine and still had a leak in the yellow line with the red stripe....
The next stop on the vacuum train is the fuel door lock. Bingo! A swollen connection and a bad
diaphragm. Both of these was causing the leak. To make a temporary repair I use a golf tee to
plug the offending line and no more vacuum leaks. After the car was shut off I operated the
locks about 10 times and even let it sit overnight and still operated the lock several more times.
What a relief. I will install a new element when I get a chance.
This is one of those jobs that make you smile when you are done. Its so nice to have the lock
operate like Mercedes intended to. Just need to install the fuel door element and your done.
Mercedes Rear Differential Fluid Change
One of the most overlooked fluid items on any car is the rear diff fluid. This is not permanent
fluid! It is designed to be changed periodically. I normally like to change the fluid to Amsoil
synthetic 75w-90 when I get a car in the shop. This is not a hard job to do, you just need to be
careful and plan ahead.
So lets once again get our pictorial mule, the ole 79, in the shop and get the rear end lubed up...
same.
Safety and security tips:
Please remember to recycle all your used fluids at an appropriate recycling center. Be mindful to
not spill or splash fluids on yourself, others or the ground. Also as a safety tip please remember
anytime you are working on, around or under your car, to wear safety glasses and secure the car
with wheel stops and approved jack stands!
Car is ready to go up the ramps.....
Safety first because safety lasts. Get the car on a good pair of ramps or jack stands. Do not use
a floor jack or the jack to repair your spare tire.
Don't forget to chock the front wheels so the car will not roll forward.
The tools needed are a 14mm Allen wrench, drain pan, gear oil.
Here is the rear diff. Notice the two plugs. Upper one is the fill, lower one is the drain.
Always remove the fill plug first. Why you may ask? Because I have heard of many stories when
the fill plug was stripped of frozen, AFTER the fluid was removed. Then how will you get the fluid
in the diff? So be on the cautious side, remove the fill plug first to be sure it will remove. Clean
around the plug before removing it.
A very substantial fill plug is in the old diff.
Next remove the drain plug and allow the contents to drain into your catch pan.
This is how I get the fluid into the diff. I have tried a every way know to man and it a mess. I like
this pump and hose assembly, works great with no mess.
The pump in action. Notice there is no mess!
The tube just fits into the fill hole. Fill to just the point where the fluid starts to dribble out the
hole. The car is on a slight incline toward the front, so you will get a few more ounces in the diff
than you would if the car was level. If your really anal then put the front of the car on jack stands
and get it level. The few extra ounces will not hurt anything.
Button up the fill plug and your done!
Now go enjoy the new lube in your rear.
Mercedes Vacuum System
Troubleshooting Basics
Vacuum, vacuum everywhere, or you wished it was. For
to many owners of the older Mercedes cars, the vacuum
system continues to be an amazing mystery. Full of weird
components and even weirder operation of all kinds of
stuff on the car.
Well I am here to tell you today, it is not that complicated
and mysterious. To be quite frank, vacuum systems are
much easier to both understand and troubleshoot, than
an electrical system is.
The purpose of this pictorial is not to troubleshoot the
entire car. I will eventually do the entire car for you in
several different pictorials. My main focus is the most
common areas that I hear questions on, especially
around the oil filter housing.
This critical area is where most of the leaks are going to
happen. Why you ask? Because most cars are running
around with the original connectors and check valves,
that have swollen and hardened because of oil vapors
and heat from the engine compartment.
Combine that with years of moving and bumping the lines
while taking off the oil filter housing top, and you have a
recipe for a leak.
Nothing will destroy a rubber vacuum component faster
than motor oil. It swells the rubber, makes the
connections loose and then bingo, leaks. So follow along
as we hunt down some vacuum leaks.....
Tools of the trade. You must have at least one vacuum
pump to properly diagnosis your system. Don't get the
cheap plastic hand pump they don't last. I like the brass
Sears model for longevity.
Also invaluable is a standard vacuum gauge. Many times
on several of the tests I perform, I will use both gauges at
the same time.
Don't skimp on these tools, they don't cost that much and
will pay for themselves the first time you use them.
Oh I almost forgot one other tool, golf tees. These are
invaluable in plugging lines for testing. I have lots of them
handy when I am on the hunt for leaks. They are easy to
use and slip in and out of the connectors easily.
Typical Mercedes diesel vacuum pump (picture #2). They
are very reliable and easy to rebuild if need be. The most
common failure is the check valve and internal
diaphragm.
The very first thing I do is make sure we have a constant
supply of vacuum. Disconnect the main fitting going to
the brake booster (picture #3) while the engine is running
using a 19mm wrench.
Hook up your vacuum gage to the end and read the
vacuum (picture #4).
As you can see we have a nice 22 hg of vacuum. The
vacuum is actually a little higher than the gauge reads
due to the fact that I am just pressing the hose against
the opening and I can't make a perfect seal.
This tells us the vacuum pump is working properly. If you
had no vacuum or it was low or erratic, then you will need
to check your vacuum check valve and/or rebuild your
pump.
Since most cars have the original vacuum components, I
will be showing you how to replace the connectors and
other items with the dieselgiant Master Vacuum
Connector kit (picture #5).
Another area of great leakage is the metering valves on
the main supply line. There is a 3 way and 4 way
connector on the valve.
Be very careful removing the 2 connectors from the
supply line metering valve. The nipples are small and
very fragile and prone to cracking.
If one breaks you will have to replace the entire line. Its
not very expensive, but if it is not is perfect condition,
then it will leak.
Next is the green vacuum dashpot for the
transmission.
This is simply a metering device to supply the correct
vacuum to the transmission switch. If the dashpot is
leaking or not functioning, then transmission shifting can
be very rough and erratic.
I disconnected the supply side of the dashpot to ensure it
is getting proper vacuum and hooked my gauge into the
connector that the dashpot was occupying.
The dashpot is getting proper vacuum.
Why is this reading lower than the supply line?
Because the dashpot is being supplied by the 3 way connector and that is connected to the
metering valve in the supply line.
The metering valve is designed to restrict the vacuum going to this area.
Replace the dashpot and the connector if necessary.
Next we turn out attention to the big culprits to vacuum leaks. The door lock check valve.
If this is leaking then the doors may work slowly or not at all. It will also allow the vacuum
reservoir to leak down when the car is parked.
If you want too, you can test the valve by hooking up your hand vacuum pump to the supply side
and blocking off the 2 outlet nipples, but I would just go ahead and replace it since its in the kit.
Replace the 2 one inch pieces of vacuum attached to the check valve also.
To test the yellow lines, hook up your hand pump to each line with the other blocked off, and see
if you can pull and hold a vacuum.
If not then you may have a master vacuum switch or one of the door lock actuators leaking.
Now you will see a lot of different colored vacuum line coming though the firewall, what are they?
Well different year cars have some differences but these are the main ones.
The 2 yellow lines going to the check valve is for the door lock system.
The solid brown line is the ignition switch supply line.
The brown with blue stripe is to the fuel shut off valve.
The green with yellow stripe goes to the HVAC system.
The baby blue line supplies the seat back restraint system on some 2 door models.
The black line supplies the vacuum reservoir tank.
Please note that you need to check the green line with the yellow stripe. This line is the most
common line to have multiple leaks due to all the dash pod units controlling the HVAC system.
If it leaks, just plug it off for now. In another pictorial we will tackle the HVAC system by itself.
Also check the black line with your hand pump. This line is the supply line for the vacuum
reservoir and will need to be addressed if it won't hold vacuum. The reservoir is located in the
trunk on the sedan models and behind the drivers front fender on other models.
Now we will check the supply to the check valve. This side will have full vacuum since it is
supplying most of the lines that come through the firewall. We look good here.
Test each outlet on your connector. I have already replaced this connector and just verifying that
there are no leaks. Keep in mind when testing the vacuum system, you will need to test before
the suspect component and after it. Then just keep moving downstream, until you find the leak.
Use your golf tees to block lines for your test. Use you hand pump to test the various check
valves and to pull vacuum on actuators, reservoir, and other moving mechanisms.
In the case with this car the main culprit was the 5 way connector. It was original
and swollen with oil vapor and did not grip the lines very well. A new connector is
VERY hard to get on the lines, that is what keeps vacuum leaks away.
Well I hope that we have given you enough info to be able to test and repair this
trouble area in the vacuum system. Keep in mind there are differences from one
Mercedes model to another and a lot of other components and systems on your
car we did not address, but you now know the basics, so go forth and stamp out
vacuum leaks.
Mercedes Windshield Washer Nozzle
Installation and Repair
If your windshield washer nozzles are not spraying anymore,
broken, leaking, or not there anymore, then this pictorial is for
you.
This is one of those items that you don't think about until they
don't work. I had a 1979 300d as the mule for this pictorial that
needed new nozzles.
They were not spraying due to clogging and being 30 years old.
So follow along as I will show you how to get them fixed fast.
This is the heart of the system the windshield fluid tank.
At the bottom of the tank is the electric motor. I have never had
one of these go out. I am sure they do but they are very reliable.
Attention General Motors take note.....
I used the brand new windshield nozzles from dieselgiant.com
along with a few other plastic pieces I managed to break along
the way.
Removing the tee from the old nozzle it broke. This is on the
backside of the hood.
Old broken non-functioning nozzle compared to the new nozzle.
Here is the hole in the hood after the nozzle is removed. Its in a
star shape and will correspond to the tabs on the nozzle.
Broken original tee and the nice pliable tee.
I install the new tee where the broken one was. Honestly the more I touched they system the
more plastic that broke.
Remember this system is subjected to the under hood heat and plastic yellows and gets brittle
after 30 years. No problem all the parts are available.
I obtained some of the factory braided washer hose to tie into the tee. Put the hose on the new
nozzle first.
Then I installed the nozzle from the outside of the hood making sure the holes are facing the
windshield and not the front of the car. Don't ask me how I know this.:) Then I connected the
braided hose to the new tee.
I did the same thing on the passenger side. Keep in mind the passenger and drivers side nozzles
are the same, but the system ends on the passenger side so no tee is necessary.
If all is well and you were careful you will have no leaks and the nozzles should like this. Now test
the system by operating it and verify everything works without leaking.
Now that wasn't hard was it?
Transmission Vacuum Valve Lever Replacement
same.
Older Mercedes cars with an automatic transmission tend to shift harder than other cars you may
be use to. Some times the transmission just does not shift quite right. While there are many
items that can go arye, one thing is for sure, there is a 99.9% chance your vacuum valve levers
are worn and not working properly. In this issue we will inspect and replace the vacuum valve
levers on a 1984 300 SD.
Safety and security tips:
Please remember to recycle all your used fluids at an appropriate recycling center. Be mindful to
not spill or splash fluids on yourself, others or the ground. Also as a safety tip please remember
anytime you are working on, around or under your car, to wear safety glasses and secure the car
with wheel stops and approved jack stands!
Items needed:
Items Needed
(2) vacuum valve levers, a very small screwdriver; like to tighten eyeglasses - small flat bladed
screwdriver, allen wrenches
Start by locating the transmission vacuum box that contains the levers. It is located on top of the
valve cover and has several vacuum lines entering the front.
Next remove the screw that hold the box to the valve cover and them GENTLY slide the cover
toward the front. There is a tab on the front bottom of the cover do not break this.
Locate the flippers. My finger is pointing toward the wore out lever. Next take your allen wrench
and remove the screw holding the switch assembly to the valve cover
This is another angle of the worn out levers. Note the bottom lever was not working at all and the
top was almost worn through.
This is one of the new levers we will replace the worn out ones with. Note how much thicker the
new part is compared to the old one. Note do not use grease to lubricate the wear points it will
soften the plastic and wear it out faster.
There is a small metal pin that slides through the whole assemble and through the flippers.
Carefully take your very small screwdriver and push the pin out. It took me a while to get it this
far. It is quite tight and we don't want to damage either the pin or the switch assembly.
Replace the worn out levers with the new one and put the pin back in the hole very carefully!
Replace the vacuum assembly back on the valve cover and tighten. Note how the throttle cam
has groves that the flippers slide on at different degrees of rotation. My old levers were definitely
not working at all. Replace the black cover and go on a test drive. You should notice a BIG
improvement in shift quality and timing. Remember there are other components like the vacuum
modulator, throttle linkage and transmission cable that all need to be tested, adjusted and
replaced if necessary.
Enjoy!
Troubleshooting Mercedes-Benz Cruise Control Systems
Vacuum Actuator, 10-pin Amplifier System (1976-1980)
Please note that these ideas and procedures are for
someone who has the time, inclination and technical
ability to understand and follow them. There are other
alternatives. We can generally tell you, over the phone
or by email, what is wrong with your system if you let
us know what the symptoms are. Or, naturally, you can
have your favorite local qualified mechanic perform the
work. Please do not hesitate to email or call us if you
have questions or concerns.
Troubleshooting this system is relatively limited and therefore fairly simple. We should
begin by saying that the amplifier is the primary cause of failure in these systems. If you
would prefer to not attempt the following procedures we will be glad to check out the
amplifier for you. We do not test the vacuum actuators.
The cruise control system is composed of the following components:
•
•
•
•
•
•
Control Switch - on the left of the steering column
Amplifier - the electronic brain of the system
Actuator - converts signals from the amplifier into mechanical movement of the
throttle linkage
Speed Sensor - on the back of the speedometer
Brake Light Bulbs - a mechanism for cancelling the cruise control
assorted wiring and connectors
The first, and easiest components to check if the system is not working at all are the brake
light bulbs. The amplifier gets a critical ground through the filaments and will not work at
all if the brake light bulbs are burned out or missing. Most systems will work fine if at
least one bulb is working.
It should be noted that these systems are at least 20 years old. The actuators are vacuum
powered and have an internal rubber diaphram which can have deterioration. If so, the
actuator must be replaced. The cable between the actuator and the throttle linkage has an
internal white plastic sheath which can become worn, causing the cable to bind. The
cable is an OEM part as is the actuator. Each can be bought separately from a Mercedes
dealer or parts supplier.
The actuator can and should be tested to see if it holds vacuum and whether the cable
pushes and pulls with vacuum application. 12-14 inches of vacuum should be applied.
The most common symptoms are as follows and each indicates a course of action:
1) The cruise control system works but is surgy or uneven. The cause is probably a bad
amplifier. The only decisive test is for us to look at the signals on an oscilloscope. An
alternative not available to everyone is to install an known good amplifier and see what
happens.
2) The system does not work at all. Although the most common cause is a faulty
amplifer, the cause can be anywhere and there can be multiple causes.
***We are still writing this section. For a discussion of details before this page is finished
please call us at 805 772-5588.***
Mercedes-Benz - High Idle Hell
Tom Hundt's Infomonger Pages
Mercedes-Benz Tinkering - High Idle
Hell
I just went through High Idle Hell with my '83 380SL. It was idling at 1500, most of the time, and stalled
on occasion. Here are some notes.
This is a common problem with these cars. Examples: example example example . (You may notice a
common thread here: The computer.)
Components
For '83, the components to the electronic idle speed
regulation are:
●
●
●
●
●
Idle speed compensator (aka slide valve)
Idle speed controller (aka "computer" although it's
really an analog circuit)
Overvoltage "relay"
16C temp switch
The fuel pump relay is also involved, but if that was
bad, probably you would not be driving at all.
Other years include other temperature switches and stuff. RTFM. (The factory cdrom describes this stuff
under 07.3-112 "Testing electronic idle speed control".)
Normal operation
●
●
Normal idle, warmed up, should be right around 500 rpm. It should stay there very solidly.
When you start the car (and as with any fuel injected vehicle you should NOT have to touch the
throttle at all to start it, just turn the key), it should briefly rev high as it starts (this is done by the
cold start valve) and then may stay idling high for a short period (due to warm up compensator
[20 sec max] and 16C temp switch) after which it should go to 500. In any case, it should NEVER
be as high as 1500 by itself. The warm-up stuff brings it to 800-1000, something like that.
http://www.slack.net/~thundt/mercedes/high_idle_hell.htm (1 of 3) [1/17/2008 1:32:02 PM]
Abnormal Operation
Here's a typical pattern:
●
●
●
●
Starts and idles about 800 rpm.
As it warms up, idle goes up, finally hovering around
1500 rpm.
This causes "clunks" when shifting into gear -- not
good for the trans!
Stopped at traffic lights etc., it may stall.
Quick tests
●
●
●
●
●
●
If your idle stays at 1500 all the time, most likely it is the electronic idle speed regulation. (If you
want to simulate this in a properly working car, just yank the idle speed controller plug off.)
Jiggle the connectors to the slide valve and the controller box. If it has an effect, the plugs can be
opened and the connections re-soldered. The connectors can also be replaced.
Check the slide valve. You can put 12V and ground on the slide valve's connectors, it should click
smartly when you do. Remove the voltage, it should click back (there's a spring inside). This is a
loud clack, very obvious. (Factory manual says don't leave 12V on more than 5 sec.)
You might want to take the valve off the car and clean it out, as best you can. While you're at it,
check the hoses attached to it.
Check that there is power on the idle speed controller plug, pins 2 and 4, I think. (If this isn't the
case, you have to work backwards: overvoltage relay, overvoltage circuit, etc.)
Check continuity on the wires to the slide valve from the controller plug.
Other Things to Check
●
●
Check that the plug connected to the idle speed controller isn't switched with that for the heater.
Check for vacuum leaks (probably always a good idea).
If It's the Controller (Computer)
If everything else seems okay, it's probably the controller. From my research, this is it in most of the
cases.
●
●
●
Take the computer out of its plastic case.
Plug it back in to the connector and let the board just dangle.
Start the car and let it run at its high idle.
●
●
●
●
Start monkeying with the controller circuit board. (It
won't hurt you. You probably won't hurt it, either -these are discrete linear components, pretty heavyduty. Nowadays it would be all on a single chip.)
Move the cable around, gently press on components
and the solder side -- while listening to the engine.
Your goal is to hear some change in speed. On mine,
I had to actually flex (bend) the board slightly, and
then, magically, the idle would go down. (The
"Aha!" moment.)
Once you you've located a likely spot, take the board
out, and re-solder in that area. (Melt connections with your soldering iron, and let them resolidify.) Here you're repairing "cold" or deteriorated solder joints. They may look okay but are
not!
Reconnect the board and see if it works any better. If not, keep monkeying. (It took me a little
while to find it on mine.)
This excellent article describes the procedure: "High-Idle Problem" [mbcoupes.com]
If you want to let someone else do the soldering, here are some places to buy remanufactured ones:
●
●
●
benz-store.com.
Beckmann Technologies 800-742-1021, 919-381-2700 (someday they may even have a website).
Or, you can pay a lot at the dealer.
Once You've Gotten It Working Just Sitting In Park
●
●
If it makes a difference whether you're in P/N or one of the drive gears, then check the wire on the
computer's plug for that (pin 8).
If it makes a difference whether the A/C compressor is on or not, check the connection for that.
[Home] [Feedback] © T. Hundt - All rights reserved. [email protected]
Mercedes 107
Instrument Cluster
Removal/Rebuilding
/Replacement
Copyright © 2004 Steve J Loboyko. All rights reserved. This document is provided only with
instrument clusters or components sold to the receiver of this document. All other uses prohibited.
1
2
Purpose Of This Document
The purpose of this document is to replace your Mercedes-Benz 107 (SL) instrument cluster with
a woodgrained instrument cluster that I sell. The document may also be useful for
repairing/refurbishing your instrument cluster. The document is centered around the US 560SL
instrument clusters, but is useful for older cars.
Some people had mentioned that they thought that the finish of the dash I provided was too
“light”. Actually , I matched it to wood I had done (at great expense) by a Pebble Beach quality
MB expert in North Carolina. It turns out, that the urethane over the wood turns very dark brown
over years and years of UV exposure.
So, perhaps the installation of this item will give you some incentive to refinish your wood!
Very, very early 350/450 SL's used a "no-hole" (clock in middle vent position), one-piece front
panel cluster (no filler panel). This is very different and not compatible with any units I presently
work with. However, most of the advice in this manual remains applicable.
There is no information in this document on the repair of gauges themselves.
3
I provide completed instrument housings as well as just the "front piece" of the housing. If you
have been sold the entire assembly, it has already been cleaned/polished and you need not
perform many of the steps in this document.
If you have just the front piece, this document provides enough information to allow you to
clean/refinish your instrument panel with show car results. Remember, this is the part of the car
you look at the most, except maybe for the windshield!
NOTICE:
This document is provided as a convenience and guide. It is NOT authoritative and should be
used as a supplement to the appropriate Mercedes-Benz manuals. A competent mechanic with
appropriate tools should perform these procedures. No warranty or liability of any kind
whatsoever is given/accepted for the use or misuse of this guide. The ultimate
responsibility for performing these procedures is yours.
Tools Required
Instrument Panel Removal Tools (provided for full cluster)
Brush (provided for full cluster)
1/2" Breaker Bar w/3/8 adapter
1/2" ratchet
8"+ extension
Open-end wrenches (13,10mm for oil connection to oil pressure gauges, pre-86)
Towel for oil "accidents" (pre-86)
Baggie with twist tie to hold oil in hose (pre-86)
1/2, 3/8" metric sockets (needed for steering wheel removal)
Hex metric sockets (Used to remove 86+ air bag, 4mm-latest models MAY have used Torx
(this is the kind with the hexagonal rod sticking out of the socket)
1/4" ratchet,metric sockets, 6" extension (definitely need 6,7mm)
Small Philips (needed for 86+)
Very small straight screwdriver (used in refurbishing clear instrument covers)
Flannel polishing cloths - Wal-Mart auto department (used in refurbishing clear instrument covers)
Pencil or small pointed object (used in exchanging instrument light underlays)
Filament Tape (used to optionally secure filler panel under instrument housing)
Needlenose pliers (used to reflatten speed nuts on instrument panel clear cover)
Terrycloth Towel
Flat and clean area
Liquid detergent dish soap (NOT dishwasher liquid-used in cleaning items)
Paper/Pencil (used to note idiot light legends)
Flashlight (head mounted is very useful)
Another set of hands (a helper) is strongly recommended
Safety Notice
Certain steps require careful attention. The safety characteristics of the car can be compromised
or personal injury can result by neglecting torque settings or steps in this document. A great deal
of effort went into the preparation of this document (in a previous life, I was a technical writer);
please read it ENTIRELY before STARTING any procedure.
Conditions
I would not recommend doing this in interior temperatures of under 60 F. The reason for this is
4
that you will be slightly distorting the plastic around the instrument panel, and if it is very cold it
may be more prone to cracks. If you need to send me your original instrument cluster back before
it gets warm enough to work, email me and I will arrange an extension. The risk is not worth it.
Lighting Check
Place the car in the ignition position (not start, ignition) and note the lights lit and the
wording/symbols underneath Write this down or draw a picture. Note any weak or missing lights.
You may want to consult your owner's manual for what lights should be lit. Check the
instrumentation lights that light when the headlights are lit. Later, you will refer to your notes as to
what lamps, if any, need replacement. You do not want to repeat this procedure any more times
than is absolutely necessary. If your car has many miles, you might consider replacing the bulbs
before they fail. I have seen the very tiny bulbs lighting the instruments become weak (that is,
they still light, but are not dead). I have also numerous examples of bulbs that light and have
"dark spots", decreasing their brightness.
Not all bulbs are available at your local NAPA, etc; furthermore, some bulbs that look like they
should fit may be too bright and/or put out too much wattage. This can be dangerous while driving
at night, may damage or melt the instrument panel, or possibly damage the electronics.
Consulting the owner's manual or your M-B dealer and acquiring bulbs ahead of time is a good
option.
Battery Disconnection
Disconnecting the battery is required for these procedures, especially if an airbag is
present. In any event, do not operate the lighting or the ignition of the car during these
procedures.
Steering Wheel Removal
The safest and least likely to cause damage method to remove the instrument panel is to remove
the steering wheel first. To doubly ensure that you put the wheel back on correctly, make certain
that the car's wheels are exactly forwards and that the steering wheel is horizontal before
proceeding.
86-89 and Airbag-equipped 85 107's
The airbag is NOT an uncontrolled bomb. If it were an unsafe device, it would not be installed and
operational as per the Federal Government, in front of your face for hours at a time. Nonetheless,
it must be respected. It is specifically designed to fire ONLY when very certain conditions are met
and a substantial electrical current is applied. Jostling it will NOT set it off. Ordinary radio waves
will not set it off. Nonetheless, heed these instructions carefully. Always face the steering wheel
and air bag head on while working on it, leaning backwards.
Using a 4mm hex socket (note: very, very late SL's MAY use Torx head screws), locate the two
screws behind the airbag and wheel and loosen them. They will likely NOT come entirely out and
do not need to come out. The airbag should feel loose and removable. Carefully pull back the
airbag and locate the power connector. Disconnect it from the airbag by wiggling the connector
and pull it straight out. Immediately place the airbag on the ground FACE UP and away from the
5
car or anywhere you may step. This is important because should it fire, a balloon will fly upwards
instead of a piece of metal at 200 miles per hour.
Mark the relationship between the splined shaft and the wheel with a very visible marker
BEFORE removing the wheel.
Non-Airbag Equipped SL's
Up to about 1972:
Remove the Mercedes logo carefully avoiding marring the padding.
After 1972 to about ’86:
Pull off the entire padded plate of the steering wheel. It is best to pull off starting in-between the
spokes of the wheel to the left and right sides. Be very, very careful not to tear this piece.
All Models:
Use a breaker bar, an 8-12" extension, and a 10mm hex socket (it is possible that later models
used a TORX socket). Earlier models used a 14mm or 18mm nut. Remove the countersunk
screw or nut from the steering column at the center of the wheel. The best way to do this is to
brace the wheel with your legs/knees to hold it. This is where another person can hold the wheel
for you, and you do the turning. Do NOT rely on the antitheft lock of the wheel to hold it in
place for you; you may damage it. The screw/nut will be tight, but it will break free. Use a
ratchet to finish the job. Remove the wheel.
Plate Removal
On 86-89 107's, there is a plastic insulating plate that must be removed on the steering column,
held by three Phillips screws. Remove the screws, and then remove the plastic plate. Do not lose
any parts/screws.
Instrument Panel Removal
The instrument panel is surprisingly not held in by any fasteners. It is held by friction and a rubber
gasket. The object is to push or pull the panel outwards just enough to expose the
tubing/wiring/cabling for disconnection.
There are several suggested ways to do this:
1. Go under the dashboard and push the panel outwards.
2. Using hooks (tools actually provided to mechanics by Mercedes, functional copies of which I
provide with the complete instrument panel), grapple both sides of the panel and wiggle it
outwards.
This latter method is described here.
1. Using the provided hooks, slide them in with the prongs up and insert deeply at the middle and
sides of the instrument cluster, between it and the padded rim Then, turn the prongs INWARDS.
Do NOT place undue pressure on the padding around the panel. It is old, brittle, and will crack
if abused.
6
2. Gently rock the panel back and forth while pulling just until it gives. Beware of the cruise
control (if so equipped) and the turn signal stalks. Do not attempt to entirely remove the panel
yet; wires/cables/hoses need to be disconnected first. It is easier to work from the RIGHT side in
my opinion.
Panel Disconnection
Older (pre-86) Models
On older models, there are two or three main electrical connections, and 1 or 2 cables for the
speedometer and/or tachometer. There is also an oil pressure gauge that actually uses an oil
hose. These must be disconnected. Do not strain or bend the speedometer/tachometer cables
because they could be damaged and cause the gauges to be "jumpy" or to fail.
The oil hose may be old, delicate, and a leak or break while the engine is running could be
disastrous to your interior. So, remove these especially carefully. You should put a towel on
the car floor underneath, just in case. Use a 13mm wrench to hold the fitting on the gauge itself
and loosen the oil fitting with a 10mm. You must then plug/bag the open oil line immediately
because it could theoretically leak very, very dirty oil on your nice interior.
7
On older, pre-1986 cars with mechanical oil/speedometer systems, it may be desirable to work
from behind the dash to remove these first. Consult the Mercedes manuals.
There are 5 main electrical connectors:
The round multi-pin connector
The convenience connector (86+)
The tachometer connector
The speedometer connector (electronic signal – this looks odd but simply pops off)
The clock connector (hot whether or not the car is on- this is why you disconnected the battery)
Be very careful with this connector. If you've left the battery connected (NOT recommended!),
this will be electrically HOT AT ALL TIMES WHETHER OR NOT THE KEY IS IN THE
"IGNITION" POSITION. Mine has had its insulation deteriorate and touching this to ground
anywhere will at least blow a fuse and surprise you; worst case, you could get hurt or damage the
wiring.
All of the above "wiggle" off.
There are also individual connectors for the lights on the right-hand side of the panel (86+
models). The wires are numbered to correspond to the dash, starting at 2 (1 is a plugin socket for
the turn signal, and is not removed).
There is a vacuum connection to the economy gauge (86+), which wiggles off.
I have found it easier to work from right to left.
8
Panel Removal
Before you remove the panel, write down exactly what is stated on all the Idiot Light signals. You
may have to transfer these from your old housing if they do not match.
Remove the panel while avoiding the cruise/turn signal stalks.
You should lay a terrycloth towel large enough for two clusters down on a clean table, and place
your new instrument cluster housing face down on this, along with the one you just removed.
Transferring Parts from Old To New Housing
Before proceeding, it is CRITICAL that you mark down the legends on the "idiot lights" on your
original dashboard. Mixing these up with those from a different car could result in a safety hazard.
This would be a great time to replace the lamp or lamps you noted as dead or weak before
removing the cluster.
Use a 6mm socket on a 6"+ extension. Remember, you are screwing parts out from and into
plastic; tighten the screw only finger-tight without the ratchet. Overtorquing could result in
breakage or stress.
VERY CAREFULLY CHECK the interior of the new housing for dust. In spite of my best efforts, it
is likely that it contains some. Dust within the cluster will be very annoying and may lead you to
do this job over (which you not want to do). Hold the cluster up to the light and thoroughly check
with the brush provided.
9
VERIFY that the indicator lamp legends ("idiot lights") from your OLD panel match the NEW
panel. If they do NOT, read the section "Indicator Lamp Plastic (Idiot Lights)" before proceeding.
If there are smudges or fingerprints, use ONLY (ONLY!!) a SOFT and CLEAN cloth (NOT A
TERRYCLOTH) and Windex/Glass cleaner. Do not press while cleaning. See "polishing" for
recommended inexpensive polishing cloths.
Do NOT touch or allow the bending of your instrument faces or their indicator needles.
Before proceeding, you might consider cleaning the instruments themselves (with the provided
dust brush) or possibly the painting of the needles (see "Indicator Needle Painting").
•
•
•
•
Remove the multi-gauge cluster screws first (all 6mm)
Remove the screws holding the speedometer.
Remove the screws holding the tachometer.
Remove the one longer screw holding the rheostat (the dimmer) and remove it.
NOTE: On pre-86 gauges, the front of the instrument panel is held on by two nuts that pass
through the multigauge and tach PCB'
s, as shown. Remove these 7mm nuts before proceeding.
Do not lose the washers.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Remove the multi-gauge cluster.
Remove the convenience module (two very small Phillips screws)
Remove the speedometer and tach/clock as an assembly (they are wired or tied
together). These are placed on the new assembly. Note the shaft for the clock knob; this
obviously must go through the hole.
Install the multi-gauge cluster.
Install the convenience module (86+) using the two small Philips screws.
Install the rheostat.
Replace all screws; remember that these should be finger tight and no more; also recall
that the rheostat (dimmer) screw is LONGER.
Your car may or may not have a rubber gasket at the rear of the housing. Your new one provided
by me may or may not have this installed. If it is not installed, transfer the gasket from your
original housing to the new housing. It is a strip of rubber shaped to the housing and is not a
continuous loop. It is held in place with double-sided adhesive. If it is NOT sticking when
replaced, use SMALL amounts of gel-type superglue, NEATLY, to secure it. If this step is needed,
wait 1 hour before reinstalling.
Replacement
The finish on the new cluster is sturdy, but not indestructible; do not bang it on the edges. Once
installed, it should last a very long time. It might be a good idea to put a terrycloth on the steering
column.
Working from left to right, reconnect:
•
•
The vacuum gauge (newer models)
Oil Gauge - 85 and earlier models- be very careful in making CERTAIN that this is
properly seated and tightened. An oil leak in this area caused by distortion/damage to the
(now 20 year old) hose or improper installation/tightening of the connector can cause a
spectacular and uncleanable mess in your car's interior in a matter of moments! Again,
use the 13mm wrench to hold the brass fitting at the gauge while turning the 10mm hose
fitting. Do not rely on only the gauge to provide this strength; it could be damaged.
10
•
•
•
•
•
The large multi-pin connector (it's keyed and will go in only one way). Be certain that it is
entirely seated. Only a very tiny gap should exist between the PCB and the connector.
The speedometer (on older models, a cable)
The convenience module (86+) - note that although this is keyed, it IS possible to
misconnect it. Look at the physical outline of the connector while installing. On earlier
models, a block of foam is installed here, black face out towards the driver.
The tachometer
The idiot lights, going from left to right (from the front view). Note that on my car, these
lights were all tagged with numbers corresponding to the places for them. On my car, the
last "hole" is empty. Note that on 85 or earlier models, these were part of the PCB
assembly and not loose bulbs and wires.
Check that your model didn't have any other wires or lamps.
Now, you are ready to reinsert the panel. Make certain that the wiring is dressed out of the way,
and carefully and evenly reinsert it. Note that this is a friction fit. Do NOT over press it in; damage
to the 16-30+ year old dashboard padding could occur. If it is slightly less than flush, it is seated
properly.
Replace the plastic insulator ring (newer models). It will line up only one way. Use the three
Philips screws.
Replace the steering wheel, noting the position of the wheel.
Torque the steering wheel nut/screw to the proper torque using a torque wrench. Brace the wheel
with your legs/knees. Get another person to hold the wheel for you while you torque this. Do
NOT rely on the antitheft system to lock the wheel. You could damage it.
From the Mercedes manuals:
Nut on steering wheel: 50nm (Newton-meters-multiply by ~0.75 to convert to ft-lbs)
Screw:80 nm (Newton-meters-multiply by ~0.75 to convert to ft-lbs)
I would use blue Threadlocker on this, just in case.
Replace the airbag if so equipped using the hex or Torx screws. DO NOT FAIL, DO NOT FAIL,
to reconnect the connector to the airbag first!!!!! It is keyed to fit one and only one way
and you will feel it click in place. I do not have torque settings for these screws. Use
reasonable, prudent judgment or consult other manuals.
Replace any padding or emblems (pre-86 107’s).
Test drive to check alignment of wheel, lighting, and gauge operation.
Extra Steps
Instrument Panel Disassembly
Filler Panel Removal/Replacement
The instrument panel may have an additional strip underneath, as a "filler". This is fastened to the
panel with two-sided tape and uses locating pins for placement. Depending on the instrument
panel provided to you, this filler may or may not be present on your woodgrain panel, and you will
need to transfer it from your original panel.
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To remove:
On a flat, padded surface (terrycloth towel), working from the REAR, use a WIDE knife and twist
to separate. Work evenly across the length of the panel so as not to stress any particular spot.
The plate will pop off.
Keep the "glue" area clean.
To reassemble:
Reverse the steps. If the original glue is insufficient, use strapping tape to tightly connect the
parts as shown on the front cover of this document. It is important to keep them tightly together so
that they don't rattle. If they seem reasonably tight, the pressure exerted by installation should do
the rest.
Indicator Lamp Plastic (Idiot Lights)
The indicator lamp plastic is held captive by the clamshell of the two black plastic pieces of the
dashboard. It is assumed that you have already removed the gauges.
12
NOTE: ‘86+ dashboard only has these screws
underneath.
To disassemble:
1. Work on a clean mar-free surface like a towel. Small pieces can escape; make sure you can
find them.
2. On 86+ dashboards, it is necessary to remove the gauges to expose the screws. Remove the
two 6mm screws.
Remove as shown with the cluster face down; then, working with the cluster face up and bottom
towards you, slightly separate the pieces, The indicators will loosen. Slide them out. If necessary,
proceed to entirely separate the instrument cluster pieces. Be careful not to loosen or bang the
instrument panel clear plastic.
On '85 or earlier dashboards, the PCB's that hold the instruments are integral to the attachment
of the front panel. If you have removed the gauges, the two halves of the instrument cluster
should easily disassemble at the seam.
Indicator Lamp Plastic Legends
On 86+ dashboards, the legends are marked on the translucent colored plastic behind the clear
plastic. It is attached to the clear plastic with three plastic rivet-like clips. You may exchange
these with the proper indicator assemblies, or you can swap them by removing the clips. Note
that the plastic is delicate and irreplaceable. Proceed with caution. The rivets are removed with a
sharp pointed object (a thin, sharp pencil, for example) from the front. DO NOT BEND THE
COLORED PLASTIC.
13
If you will be reusing your original idiot light assemblies, see "clear instrument cover polishing" for
the cleaning and polishing of these pieces.
Remember, it is crucial that one way or another, you wind up installing a dashboard with
the proper lamp legends into your car!
Note that on 86+ instrument clusters, the center plastic covers the convenience cluster module.
On earlier cars, this is "blank" and is filled in with a piece of Styrofoam painted black on the front.
Clear Plastic Over Instruments
It is assumed that you are working in a clean area on a terrycloth towel or similar mar-free
surface.
After separating the two black pieces of instrument housing and removing the idiot light plastic,
carefully lift the clear instrument plastic. Note the black clips on the edges. Remove these and DO
NOT LOSE THEM.
IF all you need to do is clean your plastic, you need do no more disassembly. If you need to
polish it, you will need to remove the light shields. These are held in place with triangular speed
clips. They are not easy to remove, but can be removed by working around the edges, spinning
,and lifting with a very tiny screwdriver. Do not break the posts, or gouge the plastic while doing
this. Do not lose the clips.
14
15
Reinstalling
After Cleaning/polishing (see below), thoroughly examine for cleanliness. Hold up to a bright light
and look for smudges. It is very important to keep it as clean and dust-free as possible. Dirt and
dust will irritate you greatly if you reinstall the instrument cluster dirty and/or dusty. Use the dust
brush provided and see my comments about the type of cloth to use.
Replace the light shields, if removed. The clips will have lost some tension and slightly flattening
them back to original shape with a pair of needlenose pliers will help (it helps if they are slightly
concave with the tips pointing down). It is important that you secure these tightly and without any
sign of looseness.
Replace the small clips around the plastic. Hopefully, you did not lose them. If you lost one, it
isn't a big deal; if you lost two, a small piece of electrical tape will probably work as well. These
serve an anti-rattle/squeak purpose.
Washing
At the very least, you should wash your instrument panel clear plastic. This plastic is very soft and
will scratch with just your fingernail. The goal here is to remove all dirt and dust in a non-abrasive
manner before further drying or dusting.
Initially run the panel under a sink with lukewarm water.
Using only dishwashing soap, liberally cover the panel and spread the soap all over with your
hands.
Thoroughly rinse all traces of soap off of the plastic, again, using your now clean hands to rub off
the soap.
Allow to dry. If you must use a cloth to dry it, the ONLY acceptable material to dry it with is a
flannel type cloth. Period. It will otherwise be scratched. These are available for $4.00 a bag at
Wal-Mart, and I recommend them highly.
If you use a USED cloth, it should be fresh out of the washer and dryer.
Hold the plastic to the light and check for dust/dirt/unacceptable scratches.
Polishing
Even after polishing, you may notice marks (probably circular) around where the plastic was
exposed. These are marks left by grinding dust into the plastic when cleaning the instruments.
The following technique will remove these, as long as they are not serious; even if it does not
remove them all, it will improve the appearance greatly. Tiny scratches are not visible when the
unit is installed. Note that it is highly unlikely that, unless mishandled, that the BACK of the plastic
is scratched. You should note which side is the front and which is the back.
The polish I use is Maguier's PLASTX, which I picked up at Advance Auto.
16
The ONLY cloth you should use is a flannel type cloth. Period. It will otherwise be scratched
worse than it already is. These are available (the yellow ones) for $4.00 a bag at Wal-Mart, and I
recommend them highly. Everything (including YOU) must be clean and dust-free.
If you use a USED cloth, it should be fresh out of the washer and dryer.
Place the plastic on a terrycloth towel (clean, and fresh from the washer/dryer).
17
Use SPARING amounts of polish; apply to the plastic.
Rub with a finger or fingers over the flannel cloth. Press hard. If you are doing it correctly, the
plastic and your fingers should become warm through the cloth. On a microscopic scale, you are
actually melting the plastic back in on itself in addition to removing the upper layer of dead,
oxidized plastic.
Use a "new" spot on the fabric when reapplying polish and continue until the scratches are
sharply reduced and/or eliminated. Clean off excess polish with another flannel cloth and hold to
a bright light. Perfection is desired, but not absolutely required. Work especially around the
circumference of the gauges, where it is likely that dirt had been ground in and scratched the
plastic.
It IS possible to remove more serious scratches and gouges with a buffing wheel and plastic
compound, but this is best left to experienced persons and is not described here.
Rear Plastic Cleaning/Maintenance
This is rugged, and you may wash it under a sink using dishwashing soap; dry with a flannel or
soft cloth only. If you immerse it in water, you should lubricate the odometer reset/dimmer knob
immediately with oil. Lubricating these areas, period, may be a good idea.
Note that there is a tiny clear plastic window over the "convenience indicators" or the foam block.
Do not lose this; it is held in place only with pegs. This, too should be cleaned and/or polished
with the other clear plastic.
18
Gauge Indicator Painting
You may not know this, but the color of your gauge needles was not yellow when the car was
new - it was a bright orange. This may be a good opportunity to repaint your needles. It is likely
that some needles have faded more than others. My dash (shown on page 1) has had the gauge
needles repainted.
Hobby stores carry Testor's signal orange, which is not exactly original but is very close. Also
obtain thinner, and some small brushes.
If you are sloppy, you might consider masking the gauges with a cut-out card for the needle hub
and stalk. I didn't do this.
Shake the paint, pour into the cap, thin slightly with the thinner, and mix.
Paint the appropriate needles NEATLY. Don't get any on the hub or on the gauge face (see
masking, above). This is especially important on the clock hands. You can stop 1/2 mm or so
from the hub, and if you are neat, no one will notice this.
A caution: Do not apply paint too thickly. On gauges with "stops" like the electrical oil
gauge on my '86, I developed an annoying problem. As you know, paint actually can take
weeks or even months to become "completely" dry. The needle would stick on the 0 stop
and I spent two weeks of nail-biting wondering if I was driving around with no oil pressure
(after driving around a bit or going over a bump, it would loosen up and pop up to "3".
Eventually, the heat of the summer hardened the paint to the point where it did not stick.
Bottom line is, paint near the stops as little as possible, particularly on an electronic gauge.
19
Cruise Control Problems:
Go to General Development Laboratories - Home Page
See trouble shooting.
1976-1980 Vacuum Actuator, 10-pin Amplifier System
1981-1993 Motor Actuator, 14-pin Amplifier System
and check the actuator and the amplifier. Then see Site Table of
Contents for Replacing, Repairing, Rebuilding Amplifiers & Actuators
Engine Hard to Start when warm
There are many reasons why the engine would be difficult to start,
Some 450 SLs suffered from vapor lock and hard re-start because of
the position of the catalytic converter.
Another possibility is the fuel filter and fuel accumulator may be
at fault or the pump may be the cause.
The problem occurs particularly after the engine has been running
due to the pressure relief valve located at the back of the pump
inside. It is activated by a small spring and a metal cone which in
time sticks and does not allow pressure to be relieved.
As the pump is driven by a permanently excited electric motor the
pressure is reduced. After stopping, the fuel accumulator maintains
pressure in the system to facilitate starting and with this pressure
if the valve is stuck it develops an inner leak.
If you tap the pump firmly it releases the pressure valve and the
engine starts again. When the tapping becomes frequent, it is time
to replace the pump.
Mercedes knows this and they provide a Check Valve which is to be
installed by replacing the existing hollow screw on the pipe
connection to the pump, effectively providing a secondary pressure
relief valve and avoiding having to buy a new pump.
(Check valve $12.98, cap nut $1.49
SL Window Switch Repair
Two 4" screwdrivers
One small file 6" or smaller
One brush for cleaning
One pair of tweezers 6" for replacing springs & balls
One Q-tip for cleaning
One 6" strip of emery paper (fine-grit)
Step 1. Take the switch out of the console by means of a 4" standard
screwdriver. This can be done by lifting the switch part of the way
up, and out, & unplug the wiring block. Some plug into the side,
some into the back of the switch. The block plugs in only one way
and switches are not interchangeable. With the switch in hand, take
two screwdrivers, 4" type, & pry off the chrome cover. Do this
slowly, as it holds the switch together and you want to see how it
works for reassembly. (it's pretty simple) Two steel balls, two
springs, two brass rockers. What goes wrong, is, the contacts on the
switch get corroded and need to be cleaned for current to flow
through.
Step 2. Take a small file, I carry a 6" jewelers file (fine-cut) and
a piece of emery paper (fine-grit) to clean the contact points.
Reassemble the switch and the window will work.
Note about the window switch: Do not hold the switch down any longer
than to close or open the window. There is no limit switch on these
cars. If your window moves slowly, clean the contacts to gain full
power.
Should take about 20 minutes
Signal / Flasher Problems
Have your hazards or turn signals been problematic?
107.044 117.985 V8 450SL CIS fuel inj. years 1976-1980.
Hazards and turn signals share the same flasher.
Do your hazards works?
If not, then this flasher is likely to be the issue.
The flasher is part of the hazard switch.
You need to remove the ashtray, the mount for the ashtray, take out
the two screws that hold the wood console in place, the shift boot
(rubber around gear selector).
Carefully lift the front of the wood, roughly one half inch, then
slide the wood section back and it should be off.
On the bottom of the hazard switch is the flasher.
You may be able to fix this by cleaning the corroded contacts
inside, 50/50 risk that it repairs or breaks.
Center Console Removal:
1. Remove ash tray
2. Remove 2 screws from rear of ashtray holder
3. Remove ashtray holder. Pry out right side first and then
disconnect electrical connector on left side.
4. Remove 2 screws from wood console
5. Remove wood by sliding to rear to disengage dowel.
Stereo Removal & Replacement
Pull the faceplate off the radio.
Remove the ashtray and tray holder. When removing the ashtray frame
you have to twist from the passenger side toward the driver side
because there is an electrical connection on the driver side. Remove
the two screws in the back. Pull the wood fascia (of the AC
controls) down and out from the bottom.
Push down the two tabs sticking up from the space where the wood
fascia was and the radio unit slides out.
(remove the face plate from the radio and there are 2 locking bars
holding it in place ,1 each side, straight screwdriver)
Go to Find Car Audio/Video Gear that Fits Your Vehicle at
Crutchfield! and buy this wiring harness (again this is for my 560).
Wire everything up and away you go.
I just pulled the 2 knobs off, and what I'm calling the 'faceplate'
is actually a thin mylar type printed plastic insert . I just popped
it off with a pen knife, and that exposed the 2 'locking bars' that
were secured by the screws
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Mercedes 107 Sun Visor Removal

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