an ancient Roman town in the heart of Italy
Transcription
an ancient Roman town in the heart of Italy
Città del Vasto Vasto an ancient Roman town in the heart of Italy European Blue Flag Welcome to Vasto Richard Norton Taylor - The Guardian UK There are fewer and fewer places left around the European shores of the Mediterranean where you can bathe in safe, clean water by a quiet beach in front of orchards and vineyards. Fewer still where such is the volume of traffic that you can pick up your luggage at an international airport just minutes after you have landed. Abruzzo, with mountains to the west, and the Adriatic in the east, is still an unspoilt region of Italy. Unpretentious as well as unspoilt is Vasto, about an hour south of the airport at Pescara. The old town overlooks a long sandy beach, a short walk down the hill from the centre (you could catch bus number 4 on the way back) and a clutch of low-rise hotels. A little further up the coast, past the lighthouse at Punta Penna, is another, even quieter, beach, by a nature reserve at Punta Aderci. Here, you can also see trabocchi, curious wooden contraptions used by local fishermen to catch fish - mainly prawns - without getting into the water. Now you can walk around without hassle or bustle visiting the churches, the Palazzo d’Avalos, the town’s most imposing building overlooking the sea and seek shade in its attractive Neapolitan-style garden. Nearby is the cathedral of San Giuseppe. Town Center 2 Welcome to Vasto d’Avalos Gardens The centre is the Piazza Gabriele Rossetti, father of Christina and Dante Gabriel. Gabriele was born in Vasto. His support for Italian nationalism made him a potential target of the ruling Bourbon Kingdom of the two Sicilies and under the protection of thee British navy he left Italy for Malta in 1821 before settling in London. Among the permanent attractions is the delightful Teatro Rossetti, a venue for jazz and classical concerts. “If you don’t like fish, don’t come to Vasto,” a guide from the town’s department of culture told me. Indeed, fish and shellfish - clams, octopus, mussels, prawns, squid, sole - and fish soup, are the local delicacies served at lunch, either at Mimi’s, for example, or on the beach. But there is other good local produce on the menu. There is nowhere better to buy it than the Saturday covered market where you can choose from mounds of different Pecarino cheeses from Abruzzo’s sheep and Ventricina - a salami spiced with paprika. Vasto’s hinterland includes the Museum of the Pig, billed as the world’s first swine museum, at Carpineto Sinello. 3 Summer A summer season of events, initiatives, encounters, offering a rainbow billboard for tourism, sport and culture. Apart from the velvet-soft beaches, the stunning nature of Punta Aderci, the enchanting old town, the fascinating food and wine on offer, there are also wide-ranging musical genres, the charm of dance, the magic of the theatre, spotlights on literature, striking artworks on show, all to satisfy the interests and curiosity of many visitors. A fast-paced sequence of events will enhance the summer season. Take advantage of these events to come and explore, and experience our town. Vasto can boast one of the best Adriatic beaches. It has received both the Blue Flag and Green Flag (with the Italian Association of Paediatricians) awards that see us as one of the 25 top beaches for children. Thanks to the hard work of the administration and the many tourism operators, we can confirm the top quality of our services and the safety of the coast this year, as it is in part monitored by CCTV to ensure appropriate assistance in the event of need. With the inauguration of the first section of cycle path, which will eventually be one of the longest in Europe, and the opening of a multi-storey car park in the old Punta Aderci Natural Reserve 4 Summer The “Golden Gulf” town, we are achieving new goals for local eco-sustainable tourism. Vasto is waiting for you, with its several opportunities thanks to its wonderful beaches, surrounded by the Mediterranean scrub, able to amaze even the most exigent guests. Try to dive into the waters of Punta Aderci, one of the most important regional wildlife reserves, or have a walk trough the unspoilt beaches of Libertini and Punta Penna. Try to climb the rocks and coves, and discover the typical Trabocchi! Vasto is the ideal place for who’s looking for a holiday rich of wild nature and relax and besides, have fun and do sports activities like bike riding, horse-riding, or trekking. With its huge beach, Vasto offers an amazing nature trail which starts from Mottagrossa beach and leads to the southern protected area of sand dunes in Vasto Marina. No one will resist its breath-taking views, the wonderful blue nuances of the sea which dissolve into the green hills and the thin golden sand. 5 Monumento alla Bagnante Sea 6 Sea Walking in the nature One of Vasto Marina’s facilities is a pedestrian and cycle path, located in its Nature Reserve, in a section along Lungomare Duca degli Abruzzi (3.5km in the Reserve) and another in the coastal biotope at San Salvo (2.6km), skirting the edges of the best-preserved dune habitat in Abruzzo, alongside that of Vasto’s other reserve, Punta Aderci. From the path it is possible to see typical retrodunal vegetation comprising mainly rushes. Along the pedestrian paths that lead to the sea, the visitor will encounter other sequences of vegetation typical of the dunes: marram and agropyretum mediterraneum, as well as cakiletum whose name derives from the presence of cakile marittima or sea rocket, a dune pioneer plant. The dune environment is home to rich birdlife and it is easy to see goldfinches, greenfinches, serins, Sardinian warblers, stonechats, great tits, fan-tailed warblers and, on the shore, Kentish plovers. There are also several ditches to observe, where the most interesting presence is the green toad. Make your holiday a perfect one by immersing yourself in any or all of these activities: visit the nearby Tremiti islands, go inland to the mountain crests dotted with fortresses, castles and the Italic temples of Schiavi. Explore the valleys that lead you through history to the National Parks of Abruzzo and Majella, right to the heart of the Region of the parks. The cliff of Casarza Casarza is in the heart of the System of Protected areas of the Teatina Coast, and was conceived and established to protect the presence of 300 animal species, among the approximately 800 species annotated in Abruzzo. The backbone of this area is the former railway track that will allow access to the entire Chieti coast on foot or by bike. Casarza represents an important link in this wildlife and botanic “corridor.” We can find a great number of bird species who pass the winter here: the Common Sandpiper, Red Knots, Eurasian Curlews, the white, black and yellow Wagtails, Cormorants, various species of seagulls, the Merganser, and various species of ducks such as the Scaups and the Grebes. Up in the sky you can watch the flight of prey birds such as common Kestrels and common Buzzards, coming from the deep valley of the Anghella that slopes down to the sea from the city of Vasto. In winter, the Cormorants can easily be 7 Sea seen perching on the poles of the trabocchi which constitute another characteristic aspect of the Vasto and Chieti coasts. The most important botanic species are represented above all by the vegetation of the sea cliffs such as the Sea Fennel and Myrtle, and high trunk trees such as the Downy Oak. Endowed with a comfortable parking area, the Casarza Reef offers a crystal-clear sea with wonderful bays, equipped with dockings for small fishing boats. It is a tempting invitation to pursue the adventurous route towards south up to Trave, where at low tide the remains of the Roman port of Histonium emerge from the water. San Nicola beach The long beach of San Nicola opens out over natural pools and rocks, to form a magical play of bays and stretches of beaches, alternately sandy, pebbled or covered with soft sand. This corner of uncontaminated nature is a stone’s throw away from luxuriant expanses of the most brilliant greens sloping towards a crystal-clear sea. San Nicola beach 8 The Trabocco Vignola Sunrise on the Gulf Sea Mirrors of Vasto 9 Beach The Vasto seashore has received the “Blue banner” mark, a recognition that rewards the localities with the cleanest water and commitment of Local Councils to improve eco-friendliness of their facilities and promote sustainable tourism. An excellent opportunity to discover the Vasto coast in all its natural beauty is offered by the old railway track which gives access to the San Nicola beach. It can be easily reached on foot or by bike, on the discovery of numerous and monumental wall works, the result of high engineering skills and excellent workmanship in constructing channels, retaining walls, bridges, buttresses and galleries. It is a masterpiece of industrial archeology that upholds the Transhumance Paths as environmental, anthropological and landscape values and as indirect outposts for century-old principles of cultural and environmental protection. A few steps from luxuriant gardens alternated with groves of reeds, torrents and deep valleys sloping to the sea, the Vasto reef of Trave, Casarza and San Nicola up to Canale and Vignola, is a magical play of bays, rocks and pebbles, a sequence of breathtaking views punctuated by the “trabocchi,” the archaic fishing systems also described by D’Annunzio, extending over the Adriatic Sea’s thousand shades of blue. Trabocco “Cungarelle” 10 Beach The cliff of Casarza The Coast of Trabocchi The Abruzzo coast from Ortona to San Salvo is called the “Coast of the trabocchi” exactly because the typical pile-dwellings used for net fishing are a stable part of the landscape. In the locality of Canale, the beautiful beach set against the most intense shades of green is delimited by two trabocchi. On observing them, its seems as if they are about to collapse into the sea at any moment, opening out on the rocks with their platforms or nets fastened to long arms and outriggers that allow you, without using any boats, to reach the deeper waters teeming with fish. These are very old and fragile structures that, however, have resisted the weather conditions through the decades, like silent watch-towers of the sea. Still today the trabocchi exhude a very peculiar charm, one belonging to the past. Their eccentric architecture enlightens our imagination and stimulates curiosity. Centuries of events and vicissitudes of fishermen narrate about their pontoons where entire families spent more time than in their actual homes. The trabocco today, besides being a symbol and synthesis of the traditions and life of a whole population, has become also a resource for the development of cultural tourism. 11 Natural Reserve The Natural Reserve Punta Aderci Regional Nature Reserve safeguards one of the most beautiful and interesting coasts in Abruzzo: a succession of sandy beaches and shingles, high reefs and cliffs, of farm landscapes and maquis shrubland, with the blue and green shades of a very enchanting stretch of the Adriatic coast. The reserve stretches out on the seaside of Punta Penna, adjacent to the Port of Vasto, at the mouth of the Sinello River. Punta Aderci is the main feature characterizing the entire area, embracing the park and the sea beds below, offering an all-around view of the entire Reserve, where fiery sunsets often highlight the mountain profiles of the three national parks: the la Majella, the Gran Sasso-Laga and the Monti Sibillini. The scenery is quite extensive with tracts of plains cut by cliffs a sheer drop into the seashore, slopes descending to the sea, dune systems, humid areas such as the Mottagrossa pool and the alluvial plain the Sinello River. Along the sandy or rocky beaches, groups of plants resistant to brackish water, heat or wind grow accordingly, and from the water’s edge to the interior areas pioneering plants take root first- such as the Maritime Cakile followed by species of the mobile dunes like the Bermuda grass of the beaches and finally those of the fixed dunes, up to the appearance of shrubs and the maquis shrubland. Among the dune barriers, the water stagnates also thanks to the presence of clays, thus favoring the growth of strips of cane. The dunes and the river environment are ideal for naturalistic observation and birdwatching. Here many species of birds pass the winter, such as Herons, Grebes, Sternas, great Cormorants, the western Marsh Harrier and the Kentish plover. Not surprisingly, the Kentish plover is depicted in the logo of the reserve. Internally, towards the cropped plains, we can find the Crested Lark, the Woodchat shrike, the Chiffchaff and prey birds such as the Montagu’s harrier, the common Kestrel and the common Buzzard. Punta Penna beach 12 Natural Reserve Punta Aderci Punta Aderci - 3rd Beautiest Beach of Italy Punta Aderci is a reserve to be discovered with ease, on foot or on a mountain-bike tracing the old railway track, in a canoe or simply enjoying the calm of the pebbled beaches of Libertini or on the small beach of Punta Aderci, where in the distance Stenella dolphins can be observed, and in some caves one may admire the l’Halymenia floresia, considered the most beautiful red seaweed of the Mediterranean From the pebbled beach of Mottagrossa up to the mouth of the Sinello River, this is one of the most beautiful, wild and isolated tracts of the Adriatic coast appear. Overlooking Mottagrossa beach, we cross a high panoramic path (about 20 m above sea level) of around 3 km to be traced on foot or by bike, on the discovery of marine pine-woods, deep valleys and wide tracts of maquis shrubland. A unique landscape in all of the Adriatic, with vegetable essences typical of the Mediterranean such as the myrtle, the sea lily, the esparto grass, the beach dwarf broom and the dune poppy. The reserve ends at the Sinello River delta, a little beyond the characteristic brick arcades once delimiting the old railway track. A unique opportunity to discover the Vasto coast in all its natural beauty is offered by this track alone which can be easily passed on foot or by bike, to see not only uncontaminated nature but also the wall handiworks, sometimes monumental ones, result of the high engineering skills and mastery of the workers who built the channels, retaining walls, bridges, buttresses. 13 Natural Reserve Punta Penna Punta Penna is situated on a crown of enormous The lighthouse of Punta Penna rocks that rises vertically on the sea. Stretched out in the middle Adriatic like a spur, it is one of the most beautiful expanses of the 18 km seashore Vasto can be proud of. Punta Penna delimits with a surface of around 2 sq. km the most southern area of the Reserve of Punta Aderci, descending gently down to the railway station of Vasto Port. Up high, overlooking the port is the lighthouse with the same name. Just north to the port, you reach the wonderful dune beach of Punta Penna, a superb beach with soft golden sand, among the few areas of the Abruzzo seashore that has kept its wild aspect. Punta Penna is the reserve zone of great naturalistic interest. The Dunes are dotted by very rare plants and populated with animals such as the yellow-legged gull, the little gull and the Kentish plover. The sea is turquoise blue, crystal clear and transparent, with sandy and sloping sea beds, ideal for swimming and aquatic sport activities. Motta Grossa 14 History Town Center Vasto is a treasure chest, surrounded by the walls of a enchanting old citycenter which overlooks the Adriatic Sea. It is full of art and culture to be discovered, and it has an historical heritage rich of sacredness and witness of big names. You can only be enchanted by visiting the old buildings among the romantic and fascinating Loggia Ambling, one of the most beautiful scenic walks of Abruzzo, which leads from Palazzo d’Avalos, historic residence of the marquis regent of the city, to the Caldoresco Castle and the Bassano tower, architectural masterpieces you shouldn’t miss out. Arts The Archaeological Museum, the Art Gallery, the Rossetti Theater, the Gallery of Contemporary Art, the Museum of Folk Costume, together with the artistic exhibition “Premio Vasto”, will lead you on a journey through archeology and contemporary art. In Vasto there is no lack of places of worship, there are about 26 churches, cathedrals and chapels; the most important are the S. Joseph Cathedral overlooking the main square and the church of S. Maria Maggiore, which safeguards, among its huge aisles, the precious Holy Thorn. 15 History Archeological promenade - Via Adriatica Vasto can be found on the southern coast of Abruzzo. It is considered one of the oldest towns in the Frentano area as a legend decrees it was built by Diomedes, who arrived here at the head of the Illyrians, and named the settlement “Histon.” Originally it was inhabited by tribes from Dalmatia, then by the Etruscans, who were succeeded by the Siracusa tribe, the Samnites and the Romans. In about the fifth century BC, Histon was occupied by the Frentano tribe who added the original port at Punta Penna. Many Oscan inscriptions and amphorae recently recovered in the gulf of Vasto testify to the existence of maritime trade and the town’s importance in the territory. After the Social War (91-88 BC), Histon became Histonium and was elevated to the rank of a Roman municipium. During the Imperial period the town was not spared from barbarian invasions, followed by a dark period in which even the name was lost. A Frankish conqueror, Aymone, built a fortified village on the ruins of ancient Histonium and called it Guast d’Aymone. After the Angevin period, which left extensive traces in the local dialect, Vasto was assigned to the d’Avalos, a family of Spanish origin, who brought the pomp of the Spanish court and built the magnificent Palazzo d’Avalos. For its beauty Vasto was known as the Athens of the Abruzzi. 16 St Peter’s gate Palazzo d’Avalos San Michele Arcangelo 19 12 P Pu iaz de za nt e za Piaz opolo P del 3 9 2 VIA ADRIATICA NC ESC A 18 V I A R S O D A N T E A F. CR IS I S T O N I A CO R SO DE M AZ O CIT SO R CO 6 PI ZI NI P 14 8 VI SO Hi Pia sto zza ni um M O I IS LEB P 7 G La Sie rgo na O SIS P B iaz M riga za aie ta lla R C O D ’AS COR P Ca iazza pri oli FRA A Pi a Ve zza rd i I SAN Be Lar l g Ro ved o m er an e i V VIA Sp Piaz av za en ta 20 15 S. Piazz Pie a tro 17 C O R S O A R I B A L D I I GH 4 M P M iazz ar a co ni AMBLIN S 10 V 13 O R S C O S. MA Ro Piaz ss za et ti VI A 1 V I A 16 11 PA R C H E G G I O MULTIPIANO I A I H E L E N A I A A L I T M AR IA 5 Di Piaz om za ed e PA R LOGGIA C O R I T O V I T V E N E T O 1 Piazza Rossetti 2 Resti della Chiesa di San Pietro 3 Parco archeologico delle Terme romane 4 Loggia Amblingh 5 Torre di Bassano 6 Torretta Santo Spirito 7 Torretta D’Amante 8 Porta Nuova 9 Passeggiata archeologica 10 Porta Catena 11 Castello Caldoresco 12 Palazzo d’Avalos e Giardino Napoletano 13 Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore 14 Chiesa del Carmine 15 Cattedrale di San Giuseppe 16 Chiesa dell’Addolorata 17 Chiesa di Sant’Antonio 18 Monumento all’Emigrante 19 Musei Civici di Palazzo d’Avalos 20 Arena alle Grazie Teatro Rossetti Beata Beatrix Toson d’Oro Notte Bianca History Palazzo d’Avalos, built by the Turks in the 1500s, was quickly rebuilt in a Renaissance style and was also the home of Vittoria Colonna, a friend of Michelangelo. The high town retains many relics of its past, like the remains of Augustan villas and traces of the medieval settlement. In Roman times the capitol stood near what later became the church of San Pietro. Stunning Palazzo della Penna dates back to the 1600s and stands in the square of the same name. This site has brought to light the famous bronze tablet with Oscan inscriptions of the names of two Frentano censors, as well as remains of walls, temples, columns, funerary urns and coins. Famous people born in the Vasto include Lucius Valerius Pudens and Gabriele Rossetti. The town’s patron saint is Michael the Archangel, invoked by the people of Vasto in the bleak mid-1600s, when earthquakes and plagues decimated entire populations. View from Palazzo d’Avalos 21 Monuments St. Antony’s church The d’Avalos Palace The d’Avalos Palace towers above the Vasto seashore from the hill on which the village is perched. The old residence of the prestigious d’Avalos family is one of the most significant examples of Renaissance architecture in Abruzzo. The Palace was built on the remains of a 14th century building, of which several decorative details are kept: an evidence of this is the wonderful double lancet windows recently discovered in the perimeter wall overlooking the adjacent garden. After the Anjou’s period, in 1427 the Palace was enlarged and decorated by Giacomo Caldora, the lord of the city at the time, who then passed it to the d’Avalos, a noble family of Spanish origins who ruled the city uninterruptedly from 1496 to 1798. Once they consolidated their domain, the d’Avalos, wishing to transform their residence, endowed it with the magnificence of Iberian courts. The Palace was briefly also the home of Vittoria Colonna, one of the most illustrious and cultured women of the Renaissance, wife of Francesco Ferrante d’Avalos, as well as friend and confidant of Michelangelo Buonarroti, with whom she was linked by a deep intellectual affinity. The Neapolitan Garden is part of the palace and is reached through the entrance yard, opening out over the sea. After a recent restoration, it regained its original late 22 Monuments 18th century architectonical layout. Today as in the past, among the hedges of box bushes and roses, it is the reign of orange trees, and bushes of lavender, rosemary, sage, American creepers, jasmine, geraniums, bougainvillas and climbing roses. This green area is in the shape of a cross through which little perpendicular pathways run, covered by a bower, a model common to many Neapolitan gardens and cloisters of the Baroque age. You can reach the panoramic terrace after passing through the pathway that runs alongside the palace set in the midst of plants, headstones and various archaeological artworks. The archaeological section hosts statues of women, Afrodite’s heads, Eros, Zeus and Sileno, besides a series of small bronze statues, all representing Eracle. With the death of Cesare Michelangelo d’Avalos in 1729, the progeny preferred to stay permanently in the court of Naples, thus the decadence of the complex was inevitable. Today the palace hosts the Art Gallery and the Civic Museums in which an interesting numismatic collection is kept. The Castle The history of the castle is strictly connected to Giacomo Caldora, the mercenary leader who, after seizing the city in 1439, had it fortified with the renovation of the walls and the upgrading of the city’s fortifications with a new defense system. The Castle 23 Monuments Rossetti square The fort was established on a previous building which in turn, laid its foundation on walls constituting the northern entrance of the Histonium Roman amphitheatre still visible from the cellars of the palace. The original building probably had a rectangular plan, as the present one, but smaller, with four cylindrical towers on the corners and another bigger tower in the centre of the yard. In 1439 the fortification was achieved and reinforcement was done with big angular bastions and thicker walls. On the western side of the urban perimeter that includes also the castle, one can observe today how the city’s wall defense system is integrated by the towers of Bassano, Santo Spirito and Diomede del Moro, altered in their 15th century layout by the further addition of other stories. Following the destructions that the Vasto population underwent during the 15th century riots, the castle was strongly reconstructed at the end of the same century by Innico d’Avalos, who takes credit for many of the interventions that gave the building its present status: he had the four bastions built, as well as the ditches and northern tower. The restoration done by the d’Avalos, though a crude one, retained the primitive architectonical lines, thus giving the building a certain continuity until 1816, a date that will be remembered as the start of an inexorable overturning of the entire building. New constructions of a totally different styles, were gradually annexed to 24 Monuments the structure which finally made the western side unrecognizable. Today the fortification looks like a “palimpsest” monument, with Aragonese bastions surrounding the previous nucleus and with annexes and high rising external structures which started in the 18th century. The structure was gradually deprived of its purpose, hence of its military aspect, adapting it to new residential functions. Museums of Palazzo d’Avalos The Civic Museums of the City of Vasto are hosted in the wide halls of the d’Avalos Palace, the Neapolitan garden of which opens out to the view of the fantastic landscape of the Vasto gulf. As Luigi Marchesani so greatly wished, the Archaeological Museum opened in 1849. It is the Archaeological Museum is the oldest public Museum in Abruzzo, as well as one of the most important. The materials represent a complex of homogeneous and chronologically stratified evidences of the history of the old city of Histonium and its territory from the Iron Age to the early Middle Ages. There are also sarcophagi, sculptures, jewels, amphorae, coins (coined between the 3rd and 5th centuries A.C.), besides a wonderful mosaic floor coming from the ancient thermal baths of Histonium dating back to the 1st century A.D. portraying fish, sea monsters and floral patterns. Palazzo d’Avalos 25 Monuments Among the precious artworks of note are the valuable funeral dowries of the several tombs excavated in 1912-1914 in the necropolis along the Tratturo, datable between the 6th and 3rd Centuries B.C., and the two little bronze plates with inscriptions in Oscan language, coming from the Frentani sanctuary in the nearby site of Punta Penna. Also particularly interesting are the very rich epigraphic collections containing funeral epigraphs, at times with peculiar and curious texts carefully explained, big monumental epigraphs testifying to important public works, a monumental double sarcophagus for P. Paquio Sceva and his wife Flavia, and a milestone of the late archaic period from Punta Penna, relating to the Roman road running tracing the Adriatic seashore. The Art Gallery contains a sector dedicated to contemporary painting and in particular to that of the 19th century, where one can admire works of important Vasto artists such as the Palizzi brothers, leading figures of the 19th-century Neapolitan school, Valerico Laccetti, Gabriele Smargiassi and Giulio Cesare de Litiis, and other Abruzzo painters such as Francesco Paolo Michetti and Giulio Aristide Santoro. The Gallery of Modern Art was created instead as the natural extension of the exhibition called “Mediterranea,” which in 2002 unveiled to the public the works given by the Paglione partners to the Municipality of Vasto. Palazzo d’Avalos Gardens 26 Monuments The Amblingh verandah The Costume Museum contains a collection of paintings portraying traditional costumes and precious Abruzzo clothes dating back from the beginning of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century. Rossetti’s Family The home of the poet and patriot Gabriele Rossetti rises on a first plan dating back to the 15th century and it was declared a national monument in 1924. After the war invasion it became the historical seat of the Municipal Library. Born in Vasto in 1783, Gabriele Rossetti made his debut as a passionate poet, imbued with political fervor and civil commitments, so as to earn for himself the epithet of the “Tyrtaeus of Italy”. Later he dedicated himself to sacred poetry and was the author of some literary critic works on Dante and the Divine Comedy from an anti-clerical standpoint. Because of his support to the rebels of the liberal riots in 1820, he was forced into exile. Progenitor of a glorious family, Rossetti handed over the history of art and English literature to all of his four children: Maria Francesca, poetess and essayist, William Michael, who translated Dante’s Inferno into English, Dante Gabriel, founder of the literary and artistic movement of the Pre-Raphaelites, and Christina, among the greatest poetesses of the United Kingdom. 27 Monuments The first library reserve that the Library acquired were about 200 volumes of Federico Bucci and of the heirs of the former mayor, Pietro Muzii. The biggest donation was from the Monastery of Sant’Onofrio in 1899, of about 800 volumes. In 1883 William Michael Rossetti gave the library the so-called “Rossetti’s Reserve”, including works and letters. Moreover, Rossetti’s house conserves the “Spataro legacy”, made up of 68 editions of the 1700s. Rossetti Square is the throbbing heart of the old city. It is here, in the presence of the grim statue of the exiled poet, Gabriele Rossetti, absorbed in his reading, that one can breathe the authentic atmosphere of Vasto. The monument is a work of the sculptor, Filippo Cifariello, and pays homage to the poet from Vasto exiled to Great Britain to escape the death sentence for his active participation in the Carbonari uprisings in 1820-1821. The square has kept in its peculiar ellipsoidal plan, a clear trace of the existence of one of the oldest monuments in the city, the Naumachia amphitheatre, still visible in the 17th century and partially enclosed by the medieval walls. Accessible levels of the building are at present buried at a depth of over five metres. Some parts of the ellipse inserted in the block adjacent to the eastern side of the square are still visible, closed on the south-east by the slender Bassano Tower which bears the Aragonese and Vasto municipality’s coats of arms. The tower traces back to 1427 while the corbelled top, to 1713. The 17th century church of San Francesco da Paola can be admired on the western side of the square. Rossetti square 28 Monuments The Amblingh Verandah The Amblingh Verandah opens out on the eastern promenade alongside the old district, starting from the gardens of the d’Avalos Palace. It is a wonderful balcony suspended vertically among the bricks full of the city’s history, looking out over the groves of olives, orange trees and orchards descending to the sea below. From here, in one glimpse, one can admire the wonderful golden gulf of Vasto, the hills of the Molise nearby, the layers of the Gargano Mountain and the Tremiti Islands. The lodge takes its name after the Austrian Guglielmo Amblingh from Graz, secretary of Cesare Michelangelo d’Avalos, who lived in Vasto at the beginning of the 18th century. For years, the high houses and the narrow alleys around the Lodge hosted fishermen, porters, marquis squire descendants or of horse guardians, committed in coastal reconnaissance watching out for Turkish ships: this is in the district of Santa Maria which is a good representative of the popular spirit of Vasto. Continuing along the promenade, we reach high house of Gabriele Rossetti, seat of one of the Municipal Libraries. Further on around the walls-house of the Amblingh Verandah, we can find the only urban medieval gate left in the city, Porta Santa Maria, also called “Porta Catena”, with a lancet arch surmounted by a lovely little lodge (loggetta). On the southern top, on the highest point of the Lodge, two big Roman cisterns can be found still undamaged. Porta Catena 29 Food & Wine Sailor tradizions Overlooking the crystal clear Adriatic waters, protected by a belt of Apennines, Vasto has always been considered one of the most fascinating cities in central Italy. Loved and appreciated for its ancient history dating back to the hero Diomedes, admired for its natural beauty, Vasto is a unique city where tradition and modernity meet. In Vasto you can have fun on the beach, swim and do sports in the wildlife reserve, or have a walk and do shopping in the narrow streets of the citycenter. On the other hand, after the sunset you can enjoy several typical seafood dishes, based on old recipes like “Brodetto di pesce alla vastese”, in one of the many restaurants overlooking the sea, or lose yourself in the music of its nightclubs and the hospitality of the local people. Vasto is all of this, all the holidays you want! Brodetto alla Vastese is the poor folks’ fish dish, a standard recipe prepared on board Vasto’s fishing boats. The fishermen sold the best of their catch and made themselves a chowder with the damaged fish trapped in the nets and which could not be sold. Initially the dish was almost white, with just a few – usually fresh – tomatoes, but over time the brodetto has evolved into one of the most delicious and popular dishes served along the Chieti coast. For “brodetto alla vastese”, called “lu vrudatte” in dialect, the crucial requirements are a terracotta saucepan (“tijelle di coccio”), as well as oil from the Vasto hills and hot chilli peppers. Traditionally the fish – several different types – must be freshly caught, between Ortona and Vasto. Skate, red mullet, baby cuttlefish, snapper and giant goby, are cooked in garlic, peppers and fresh diced tomatoes. Trabocco 30 Food & Wine A delicacy for gourmets, able to win the palate of everyone who approaches to our seafood cuisine: a must-try dish, in particular in June during “the month of Brodetto”, without neglecting other traditional meat and fish delicacies. The unmistakable fragrance of wine and oil will go hand in hand with your holiday, to guide you among our hills, whose products have the best quality such as artichokes and peaches and a protected origin such as the delicious Ventricina. Come and discover the old flavours of our land! Our best chefs will surely win your palate with their traditional cooking, paying their attention to highly innovative gastronomic trends. Wines from Vasto As you enjoy the panorama of our hills, midway between the sea and the mountains, sun kissed and cradled by a Mediterranean breeze from the blue Adriatic, you will be enchanted by the colours and scents of the flourishing vineyards that roll across a perfect setting, caressed by the sea air. Each bottle of our wine will unfold the aromas of this territory: prepare for a journey of all your senses, a pleasure experience that will cast its spell on you. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (controlled designation of origin) is one of the Brodetto alla Vastese 31 Sea Sunset Via Adriatica Vignola 32 Food & Wine most prestigious red wines at national level. The success this wine is experiencing is certainly due to good underlying quality, but our wineries continue their quest to improve the standard of this outright local gem. Il Trebbiano d’Abruzzo The wine has various nuances that make it versatile and attractive, with its strawyellow colour; pleasant, heady aroma and delicate scent. The harmonious palate tends to range from smooth to zesty and dry; prestigious reviews have indicated Trebbiano as one of the world’s best white wines. Il Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC is a Montepulciano rosé, with a pleasing aroma that is delicate and fruity. The dry palate is soft and balanced, but always delicate and with a light almond finish. Cerasuolo is a fresh, lively, light wine, and perfect for new trends and preferences among younger drinkers. Red, white or rosé … it’s your choice! Authentic wines from Vasto, to be sure of what you drink Extravergin Olive Oil Olive oil is the acknowledged star of local cuisine. For instance, drizzle over bruschetta with tomato and oregano, or over a fresh salad, and better still over a slice of plain bread from a loaf straight out of a wood-burning oven. Discover the authentic flavours of a region dedicated to plain, healthy food, packed with genuine taste. Vasto ventricina Rarely does a territory have such a strong link with a product as that binding the Alto Vastese district with its ventricina, a prized, unique product made with prime pork cuts. This quality cured meat is free of chemical additives and is a leading item on the Italian charcuterie panorama. It can be sampled in all production areas, to savour its typical fragrance. Salt, finely chopped mild or hot pepper, and fennel seed are ingredients that blend in with quality pork, finely chopped by hand using only the knife tip. 33 Informations Book now Your Special Offers on www.vastogolfodoro.it Summer Events June Fish Soup Festival July Notte Bianca - White Night July International Music Festival August Beach Volley Tour August Toson d’Oro - Historical Event August Notte Rosa - Pink Night August Ferragosto - Fireworks August Vasto Film Festival Two hours flight from London - Frankfurt - Barcelona - Paris 34 Informations 32 Hotels 3 Resorts 30 B&B 6 Campings 7 Farm Holidays One hour from Tremiti Islands Slow Food 30 Restaurants 23 Pizzerias One hour from the Apennines and the Abruzzo National Parks Sports and leisure Aqualand park Windsurfing Horse-riding Canoeing Bowling Romantic places Entertainments 5 Discos 5 Cinemas 15 Pubs The coast of trabocchi Vasto, 45-minute drive south of the Pescara Airport, and three hours east of Rome, guests will enjoy the many beaches, the fine food and wine, and much more at a pace you will soon re-discover: slow, yet with all the comforts, style and taste you’ve come to love in Italy. Venice Bologne Pescara 60 Florence Pescara VASTO 240K m m Rome Naples Km Rome 35 0K Milan 20 Turin Naples VASTO Welcome to Vasto www.comune.vasto.ch.it [email protected] Tel. +39 0873 309225 / 3091 36