craftsman library table

Transcription

craftsman
library table
© 2012 August Home Publishing Co.
Feature
Project
Craftsman-Style Library Table
This classic project offers Craftsman design at its best. It’s practical,
simple in details, and features solid, straightforward construction.
C
raftsman-style furniture is
always easy to recognize.
That’s because it’s based on a wellestablished design philosophy. In
a nutshell, the basic principles are
that furniture should be simple in
design, highly practical, and built to
pass down from generation to generation. And one look is all you need
to tell that the classic library table in
the photo above hits the mark.
The Craftsman heritage of this
table is unmistakable. It starts with
1
WoodsmithPlans.com WS17930
a solidly built frame that supports a
beefy top. The square, gently eased
edges create clean lines. Minimal
details like the through-tenon joinery and the gracefully shaped corbels beneath the upper rails define
Craftsman simplicity.
The possible uses for this table
are wide open. Its classic look compliments most decor. The spacious
top provides plenty of display space
or a comfortable worksurface, and
when you consider the accomodating
drawers, the library table is also a
good candidate for a desk.
But all this aside, what appeals
to me most about this project is the
time spent building it. As it should
be, the construction is very down to
earth — just traditional joinery and
straightforward techniques that will
give your woodworking skills a good
workout. And in the end, you’ll have
a treasured heirloom that looks great
and will serve you well today and far
into the future.
© 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Construction Details
Overall Dimensions: 54" x 28" x 30"
Large top is
glued up from
1"-thick stock
NOTE: Main parts of
table are quartersawn
white oak
NOTE: Sturdy base is
built with mortise and
tenon joinery
NOTE: Drawer support
system designed for
easy installation after
base is assembled
Figure-eight
fastener
Side-mount drawers
slide on hardwood
runners
Craftsman-style drawer
pulls complement simple
design of table
Shallow drawers add
versatile storage
Gently curved
corbels lighten
the appearance
of large table
Routed profile
on drawer sides
softens edges and adds
traditional detail
NOTE: Drawer
sides and back are
maple, bottom is
plywood
Drawers use rigid
half-blind dovetail joinery
Stretcher
strengthens
base
Stretcher joint
reinforced with screws
FRONT SECTION VIEW
False tenon
Decorative profile
routed on top edges of
drawer sides
Maple plywood
drawer bottom
Top is easily fastened
to base with
figure-eight fasteners
Ledgers stand
proud of
base rails
False tenon hides
screws and creates
appearance of
through-tenon joinery
Legs use glue-up technique
that creates quartersawn
appearance on all four faces
Corbels attach
to base with
dowels and glue
2
27#/8
4!/4
!/2"-wide x
!/2"-deep dado
22
A
!/2
1
UPPER END
RAIL
B
3#/4
1
!/2
!/4
B
A
8&/8
2!/4
3
1"-deep
mortise
22
Inside mortise
is !/2"deep
LEG A
3
3
1!/4
%/8
1"-deep
mortise
2!/4
d.
a.
!/4
A
1!/4
FRONT
LEG
C
1!/4
Mortise for
false tenon
is !/4"deep
2!/2
!/4
!/2
1
!/4
LOWER END
RAIL
2!/2
C
e.
B
RIGHT
UPPER
END
RAIL
!/2
!/2
c.
Building the End Frames
I decided that the easiest way to
build the library table was to start by
assembling the two basic end frames.
Then you can quickly complete the
sturdy base by adding the front and
rear rails, the center stretcher, and
all the details.
Legs first. Each end frame consists
of two legs, a two–piece upper rail,
and a lower rail, as shown above.
To begin, you’ll need to make the
four stout, 3"-square legs. As you
BACK
LEG
1
C
%/8
A
!/2 6!/4
Outside mortise
is !/4"deep
!/2
A
BACK LEG
D
#/4
6!/4
!/4
A
FRONT
LEG
!/2
2!/2
END
LEDGER
!/8" roundover
on corners and
bottom edges
of legs
#/8
#/4
C
A
3#/4
3#/4
D
1
2!/4
1
!/2
1
B
20
4
29
b.
B
1
%/8
can imagine, this requires gluing
up blanks from thinner stock. But
this also gives you the opportunity
to make a better-looking leg. I used
a traditional Craftsman technique to
make leg blanks that show quartersawn figure on all four faces with no
noticeable joint lines.
The simple process is laid out in
the box below. In a nutshell, you’re
going to glue up a two-piece blank
and then “skin” the joined sides with
!/8
A
D
!/8"
roundover
2!/4
FRONT SECTION
VIEW
thin facings. The result is definitely
worth the extra effort.
mortises. Once the leg blanks are
completed and cut to final length,
you can work on the joinery. The
end rails and the front and back rails
are all connected to the legs with
mortise and tenon joints. Cutting the
mortises in the legs is the first step.
If you take a look at the drawing
above, you’ll see that each leg has
multiple mortises.
how-to: make a craftsman leg
Veneer resawn
from quartersawn
stock
Quartersawn
stock
2#/4
1!/2
a.
Quartersawn
block
#/16
Resawn
veneer
!/8
END VIEW
Joint the gluedup edges flat
and square
3
3
Size the Blank. After gluing up an extra-wide
blank from 11⁄2"-thick quartersawn stock, rip
and then joint the blank down to 23⁄4" wide.
Resaw the Veneers. Now you’ll need to resaw
veneers from quartersawn stock. They should
be slightly over width and over thickness.
Even though you’re just working
on assembling the end frames at this
point, you’ll want to lay out and cut all
the leg mortises now. This includes
the mortises for the front and back
rails that are added later.
The work. The goal is to end up
with two mirror-image pairs of
legs (front and back). So your first
concern is laying out the mortises
correctly and accurately. After that,
drilling them at the drill press and
cleaning them up at the bench will
be easy and straightforward.
Before getting started, let me give
you a rundown of what needs to be
done. As you can see in detail ‘b’ on
the previous page, the end rails and
back rail fit into off-center, open-end
mortises. The drawings at right offer
a tip for making these.
I created a classic, through-tenon
look on the lower end rails by using a
false-tenon technique. This requires
cutting a 1"-deep mortise centered
on the inside face of the leg and a
shallow mortise on the opposite face
that holds the false tenon (detail ‘c’).
Finally, the front legs each need
two “horizontal” mortises on the
front inside face for the upper and
lower drawer rails (detail ‘a’).
The end Rails. After completing the
mortises, you’ll be ready to make
the upper end rail assembly and the
lower end rails. This work is pretty
straightforward, but there are a few
things to explain.
As you know, both rails are tenoned into the legs. The upper rail
shop tip: two step mortises
1
2
Leg
Backer block
flush with
leg faces
Backer block
Drill Out the Waste. Start the mortises at the drill
press by drilling out most of the waste. Use a backer
block at the open end to keep the drill bit on track.
gets a two-shouldered tenon, and
the lower end rail needs a fourshouldered tenon (details ‘a’ and ‘c’).
A dado blade in the table saw will
handle the job. And while the dado
blade is on the saw, you can cut a
1⁄ "-wide dado across the inside face
2
of both upper end rails (drawing on
page 3). Later, this will hold an interior rail that supports the drawers.
You also need to make separate
horizontal ledger pieces that fit
beneath the upper rail (detail ‘e’).
The ledger sits proud of the rails to
create added visual interest. After
the legs and rails are assembled, it
will be cut to fit between the legs
and then glued in place.
A few more mortises. Completing the
lower rails will take you back to the
drill press and bench for a few more
Cleanup. Sharp chisels complete
the job. Pare away the remaining
waste and square up the ends.
mortises (main drawing on page
3). These mortises are for the long
center stretcher that connects the
two lower end rails. I again used a
simplified through-tenon technique.
A 1⁄2"-deep mortise on the inside face
captures the stretcher tenon, and a
separate 1⁄4"-deep mortise on the
outside fits the false tenon.
Eased edges. There’s just one more
thing before you begin the assembly. I rounded over all the edges
of the lower rails and the outside
edges of the ledger blanks.
Assembly. According to the plan, all
the end frame parts should be ready
to assemble. First, I glued two legs
and the upper and lower rails into a
frame. Then, you can cut the ledger
to fit the frame and glue it in place,
as in detail ‘e’ on the previous page.
how-to: make a craftsman leg
Tape veneer
to carrier
board
a.
Leg
blank
END
VIEW
!/2"
flush-trim bit
Veneer
Plane the Veneers. Plane the veneers to
1⁄ " thick by attaching them to a carrier
8
board with double-sided tape.
4
Glue Up. Glue the veneers to the joined
edges using your workbench to distribute the clamping pressure.
Flush Trim. To complete the legs, trim the
veneers flush with the blanks, and then rout
a 1⁄8" roundover on all the long edges.
BB
HH
NOTE:
rail
andNlower
N
I I
JBack
J
K KandL upper
L
MM
drawer rails are made from 1"-thick
hardwood.
P P
Q Q Stretcher
R R
S Sis made
T T
UU
from 1!/2"-thick
hardwood
WW
XX
YY
ZZ
OO
VV
DD
CC
E E
F F
!/4
#8 x 3" Fh woodscrew
TOP VIEW
AA
GG
THIRD: This
Drill holes for
#8 Fh woodscrew
G UPPER DRAWER
L
RAIL
BACK RAIL
SIDE VIEW
E
44
PART
NAMESL
!/4
#/4
%/8
&/8
#/4
1#/4
44
!/4
#/4
H
L
L
!/4
!/2
45
I
c.
b.
F
13
#/4
!/8"
roundover
on edges
#/8
Back Upper end
rail
leg
1#/4
End ledger
E
1#/4
!/2
#/4 #/8
1!/8
NOTE: This
TENON
!/2" x 1"
dowel
FIRST: This Lis
CROSS SECTION
!/2"-dia. x
!/2"-deep
hole
Lower
end rail
mortise
1!/8 Fh woodscrew
#8 x 1!/4"
#8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
L
K
END VIEW
SECOND: This
HH
THIRD: This
I I
J J
NN
KK
L L TOP
M M VIEW
OO
P P
QQ
!/16R R!/8
VV
WW
XX
L M
E
Z
T
UU
#/8
#8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
how-to: cut the tenons
S!/4S
THIRD: This
#/4T T U U
SIDE VIEW
Z &/8
#/8Y Y!/2 Z%/8
Aux.
fence
PART NAMES
!/16
!/8
!/4
#/4
#/8
!/2
%/8
&/8
a.
G
NN
I
!/16"
roundover
OVERALL !/2
DIMENSIONS:
J LEG FALSE
Aux.
fence
M
3
2!/4
completed, you’re already halfway you’ll cut on each one are a little bit
#8 x 3"
Fh woodscrew
different. The upper drawer rail has
home on this task. The only
minor
TOP VIEW
THIRD: This
Completing
the Base
complication is that the tenons on a three-shouldered tenon while the
!/8 !/4 #/4 lower rail has a standard, four–shoulWith the
end
frames assembled, you each piece are slightly !/16different.
SIDE
VIEW
can start on stage two of the construc- Take a look at the box below.
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8 dered tenon (detail ‘a’).
tion: making
and
installing
the
miscelThe
back
rail
has
the
same
twoScrew Holes. Later, you’ll add the
PART NAMES
laneous parts that complete the base. piece design as the upper end rails. interior support system for the three
You’ll add the back rail and drawer First, cut the back rail to size. Then drawers. This includes two vertical
#8 xcenter
1!/4" Fhstretcher,
woodscrewthe
cut a two-shouldered tenon on each divider/support
rails that fit between
NOTE: This rails, the long
NOTE: This
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
corbels, and the false tenons.
end (first drawing below). The ledger the drawer rails. They’re fastened
x 1!/2" Fhinstalled
woodscrew
through the
Drawer RailsG& H
BackI Rail.
Fitting the is cut to width and rough length, and with#8screws
FIRST: This
A is
J K L M
B C D E
FIRST: This is
CROSS SECTION
the
edges
are
rounded
over.
rails.
So
it
would
be
a
good
idea to
back rail and#8the
drawer
rails
to
the
x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
The
two
drawer
rails
are
also
easy
drill
the
countersunk
screw
holes
in
end
frames
is
the
first
step.
Since
SECOND: This
SECOND: This
END VIEW
to
fit.
But
as
I
mentioned,
the
tenons
the
rails
before
assembly.
the
mortises
in
the
legs
have
been
AA
BB
DD
E E
F F
CC
GG
NSIONS:
GG
H
2!/2
STRETCHER
L
2!/4
2#/4
!/4
J
J
F
2!/4
Front
leg
J
2!/2
STRETCHER FALSE
TENON
1
CORBEL
K
LOWER
DRAWER
RAIL
#8 x 2" Fh
woodscrew
#8 x 2" Fh
woodscrew
G
L
42
10!/2
Y
2#/4
#8 1x 3" Fh woodscrew
2!/4
!/4
F
1
K
!/8
#/8a.!/2
BACK LEDGER
!/2
#/4
!/16
Dado blade
A
B
C
D
N O
P Q
AA
BB
HH
I I
OO
VV
a.
R
F
G H
I
S
T
V W X
U
END
J
L M
K
Y
D D VIEW
E E
F F
GG
K!/4
K
L L
MM
NN
P P E QQ
RR
S S
T T
UU
WW
YY
CC
Aux.
fence
J J
1
XX
!/4
ZZ
The Back Rail. The back rail requires a two-shouldered
tenon. After setting the rip fence to gauge the length, raise
the blade between passes to sneak up on the thickness.
5
Z
Rip fence
acts as
stop
Dado
blade
END VIEW
G
1
UPPER
DRAWER
RAIL
!/4
b.
END VIEW
1
F
!/4
Upper Drawer Rail. The upper drawer rail has tenons with three
shoulders. Here, I cut the front and back shoulders first. Then I cut
the thicknesss of the tenon to match the depth of the mortise.
Aux.
fence
A
13
The center stretcher. Next comes
B
N O
AA
HH
OO
VV
:
2!/4
NOTE: Stops are glued to
top surface of hardboard base
Long Stop
NOTE: Stops are made from
1!/2
!/2"-thick stock
the center stretcher. Again, this part
!/4
4
simply gets a tenon on each end. But
Hardboard base
since the stretcher fits between the
Short
45°
lower end rails, rather than the legs,
Stop
the trick is getting the shoulder-toNOTE: Use beam compass
to draw 25"radius arc
shoulder length right.
1!/2
To do this, dry fit the back rail and
TOP VIEW
2!/4
the drawer rails between theOVERALL
end When
Corbel
Routing
Jig
they’re ready, glue them
into
NOTE:
This
DIMENSIONS:
frames, and take a measurement. the mortises, leaving them 1⁄8" proud.
Then when you cut the tenons onCROSS
the SECTION
The corbels. The gracefully FIRST:
shaped
This is
ends of the stretcher, simply sneak up corbels I added to the base are a
C D E F G H I J K L M
on a tight fit, testing the shoulder-todistinctive feature of Craftsman
fur- This
Hardboard
SECOND:
END VIEW
base
S T U Vlength
P Q R shoulder
Y the
Z dry-fit base.
W X to
niture. They help lighten and soften
the
heavy
look
of
the
table.
Roundover. With the stretcher
TOP VIEW
BB
DD
E E
F F
CC
GG
THIRD: This
The base requires eight identical
fit, return to the router table before
Short
I I
J J
KK
L L
MM N N
stop
corbels. And being a focal point, I
assembling
the
base. All the edges
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
SIDE VIEW
Corbel
P P
Q Qon the
R R stretcher,
S S
T T asU well
U
as the out- wanted them to be smoothly shaped
blank
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
Long
and consistent. So rather than shape
sideY edges
of the drawer rails andPART
the NAMES
WW
XX
Y
ZZ
NOTE: Place template jig over
stop
corbel blank snug to long
each corbel by hand, I made a temback ledger, need a 1⁄8" roundover.
and short stops
Assembly. The assembly will be eas- plate routing jig.
The corbel jig is illustrated above.
ier if you do it in small bites. I glued
Trace the Shape. After cutting the eight corbel
the rails and stretcher to one end It’s just a simple sled that’s used to
blanks to width and length, use the template jig
frame and then the other. The last both lay out the profile and rout it to trace the finished shape onto each blank.
to shape. The
steps for using it areNOTE: This
stepThis
is to reinforce the
drawer
#8 upper
x 1!/4" Fh
woodscrew
OVERALL
DIMENSIONS:
NOTE:
rail and the stretcher joints with shown at right. Before adding the
CROSS
SECTION
corbels
to the base, you’ll rout aFIRST: This is Cut to waste
screws
‘a’ and
‘c’, page 5).
FIRST:
This (details
is
side of layout
Craftsman
the roundover on all the outside edges.
A B C D
E F G Details.
K x 1#/4"
H I J Structurally,
#8
M Fh woodscrew
line
SECOND:
This
END
VIEW
base
is
complete.
But
you
still
need
The finishing touch. When you
SECOND: This
X x Y2" Fh
Z woodscrew
N O P Q R S T U V W #8
to finish up the “period”
details
— attach the corbels, you want to cen#8 x 3" Fh woodscrew
TOP
#8
the
corbels.
ter VIEW
them on the thickness of the leg.
AA
Bthe
B false
DD
Eand
E
F Fx 3"
C C tenons
GFh
G woodscrew
THIRD: This
THIRD:
This
Cut chamfer after
The
long
edge
can
simply
be
glued
False Tenons. The
tenons
for
#8 xfalse
1!/4" Fh
woodscrew
HNOTE:
H
I This
I
J J
KK
L L
MM N N
cutting curve
!/16
!/8
!/4
#/4
SIDE
VIEW
to
the
legs.
The
top
end
needs
to
be
the legs and those for
the
stretcher
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
OO
P P
QQ
R R
S #8
S x 1!/2"
T T FhU woodscrew
U
doweled
are isdifferent sizes, #/8
but!/2otherwise,
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
PART
NAMESto the ledger or drawer rail
FIRST: This
%/8 &/8
V V Wmaking
W
X X them
Y Y isZ#8
Z x 1#/4"
(detail
‘b,’ page 5). You’ll find more
easy.
You
can
learn
Fh woodscrew
all This
about the technique on page 12. information on this on page 11.
SECOND:
1
how-to: cut the tenons
THIRD: This
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
a.
Aux. fence
needed
for cutting
stretcher
tenons
NOTE: Rail and stretcher
blade fence and height
settings differ
Aux.
fence
I
Rough Cut Each Blank. Next, take the blanks
Direction of
feed
CORBEL
b.
L
!/2" pattern bit
STRETCHER
!/2
#/8
Four Shoulders. The stretcher and lower drawer
rail need four-shouldered tenons. Cut the cheeks,
and stand the pieces on edge to cut the shoulders.
6
2 to the band saw, and cut them to rough shape.
Stay about 1⁄16" to the outside of the layout line.
H
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8LOWER
END DRAWER
VIEW
RAILEND VIEW
1
Aux.
fence
!/4
H
!/2"
dado blade
Corbel blank
Bearing rides
along curved
edge of jig base
{ False tenons create a
traditional throughtenon look.
Starting
point
3 jig with double-sided tape and trimmed the
Flush Trim. Finally, I secured the blank in the
rough edge using a pattern bit. Rout “downhill,”
starting at the wide end.
CROSS SECTION
FIRST: This is
END VIEW
SECOND: This
46!/4
T DRAWER
THIRD: This
STOP
REAR DRAWER
SIDE VIEW RAIL
M
OVERALL
DIMENSIONS:
TOP VIEW
PART NAMES
K
L
X
Y
F#8F x
MM
T T
S
16#/4
TOP VIEW
G GFh woodscrew
1!/2"
NN
N SIDE VIEW
UU
END DRAWER
SUPPORT RAIL
#/4
PART NAMES
16%/8
DRAWER
SUPPORT
THIRD:
This
CLEAT
R
O
#8 x %/8" Fh
woodscrew
1
P
#/4
16
!/16
!/8
!/4
#/4
#/8
!/2
%/8
&/8Q
a.
2%/8
Upper
drawer
rail
!/4
2#/4
VERTICAL
DRAWER
DIVIDER
O
M
N
&/8
End
rail
Q
c.
#/4
#/4
17!/4
Adding the Drawer Supports
%/8
3#/4
O
Lower
!/8 drawer
rail
Now thatOVERALL
the exterior
is complete,
DIMENSIONS:
you can turn your attention to the
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
interior of
the base.
You’ll need to
CROSS
SECTION
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
create
the
three
openings
and a supE F This
G H I J K L #8
C D NOTE:
M x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew
port system
for
the
drawers.
END VIEW
S T U V W X Y #8
P
Z x 1!/2"
Fh woodscrew
Overview.
The partition/support
FIRST: This is
system
has
a
fair number of parts,
TOP
VIEW
BB
DD
E E
F F
CC
G
G
but it’s designed to go into the
This L L M M N N
I I SECOND:
J J
KK
#8 xassembled
2" Fh woodscrew
base
SIDE
VIEWvery easily. The
P P
QQ
R R
S S
T T
U U side-mount drawers slide on thin
This
runners installed
on a sturdy, intePART NAMES
W W THIRD:
XX
YY
ZZ
rior
framework.
No
bottom support
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
is needed. If you take a look at the
!/4
P
R
!/2
#8 x 1!/4 " Fh woodscrew
!/2
!/2
N
Back
REAR
DRAWER
#/4 RAIL
leg
Q
#/8
P
1!/2
O
MIDDLE
DRAWER R
#8 x 2" Fh
RAIL#8 x 3" Fh woodscrew
woodscrews
O
P
2#/4
b.
his
B
2#/4
SECOND: This
END VIEW 1
Z
#/4
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
FIRST: This is
CROSS SECTION
P
&/8
END RAIL
SPACER
DRAWER O
RUNNERS
is
s
!/16 22!/8
NOTE:
This!/4
T
S
!/4
M
#8 x pic1!/4" Fh woodscrew 2#/4
drawing
above,
R
T
NOTE:
This you’ll get the
26!/2
ture, and I’ll introduce all the parts
as theyFIRST:
comeThis
up.is
27#/8
1!/2
Rear Drawer rail. The first #8
part
to Fh woodscrew
x 1#/4"
#8 x 1!/4" Fh
make and
install
SECOND:
Thisis the rear drawer
woodscrew
O
rail. This piece stretches between
#8 x 3"
the upper end rails to anchor
theFh woodscrew
This
drawerTHIRD:
support
system. A short
Support
17!/4system. With the long rail
tongue cut on each end fits
the!/4 in
!/16 !/8
#/4 place, you can start adding the
dadoes you cut earlier in the
support rails and runners.
#/8 end
!/2 %/8 drawer
&/8
rails. You can simply apply glue to You’ll need 26!/2
to install a rail at each
the tonguesRand then slide the rail end and a middle assembly that
into the dadoes from the top.
forms the
drawer openings.
27#/8
how-to: drawer runner details
#/4
Push block
secures runner
cutoff
R
a.
#/4
Lay out
full
radius
END VIEW
O
7&/8
8
Push
block
Waste
DRAWER
RUNNER
!/2
O
N
Runner
blank
O
Cut to waste
side of
layout line
Clamp spacer
flush with bottom
of drawer rails
Rip to Size. To begin making the drawer runners, rip them to rough thickness from 3⁄4"
stock. Then plane them to 1⁄4" thick.
7
Q
O
%/16
Round the Ends. After cutting the
runners to length, round one end
at the band saw. Sand it smooth.
1
Attach the Runners. A spacer clamped to the
rail will help position the runner while you install
screws through pre-drilled, countersunk holes.
C
shop tip: centered tongue & groove
F
G H
S
T
U
DD
J
KK
Q
R R
X
YY
I worked on the two end pieces
first. These are simply cut to fit
Aux. miter
between the front leg and the rear
Vertical
fence
drawer
support rail. They’re attached by
divider
Q
a.
screwing them to spacers glued to
blank a.
END VIEW
R
END
!/2
the upper end rails (detail ‘a’ on page
VIEW
!/4
R
7). They should sit flush to the inside
!/2
edge of the leg.
!/2
#/8"dado
!/4
Runners first. Before attaching the
blade
rails to the frame, I made the drawer
runners and pre-installed them.
First, the Groove. I used a dado blade to Next, the Tongue. Use the same dado blade
This is much easier than trying to
cut a centered groove on the divider blank. to cut a mating tongue on the rails. The rip
accurately position and screw them
Flip the blank end for end between passes.
fence will gauge the length of the tongue.
in place afterward.
The runners are 1⁄4"-thick by 3⁄4"wide strips that are rounded on the
front end. You’ll need six in total, so
The construction. The nice thing space the runner away from the rear
make them all at once. The box at the about this design is that the whole end (details ‘b’ and ‘c’). Finally, cut
bottom of page 7 shows how. Note thing can be preassembled and then the support cleat to size and screw
3⁄ "
NOTE:
This it just as
OVERALL
DIMENSIONS:
the
assemblies to either end.
that the runners are
positioned
added to the base.
I built
4
away from the back end of the rails. I described it, from front to back. #8 The
installation.
The drawings below
x 1!/2"
Fh woodscrew
FIRST:start
This is
CROSS
SECTION
out as an will help you understand the support
They’ll lap onto the front
legs
so they The vertical dividers
extra-long blank. This makes it eas- installation.
to them.
The key is to position it
L screwed
I can
J K be
M
SECOND:
This
END
VIEW
ier
to
cut
a
groove
in
the
back
edge,
correctly.
The
small drawer openMiddle supports. The middle rail
V W X Y Z
assembly is a little different. Start- as shown in the Shop Tip above. ings should be equal, with the rails
TOP
VIEW
is complete,
you square
and aligned in the base. Take
have
a pair of Once the grooveTHIRD:
E E ing
F Fat the
G G front, you
This
can
cut
two
dividers
to
length.
a
few
minutes
to check, adjust, and
vertical
dividers
screwed
between
L L
MM N N
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4 before installing the
SIDE
VIEWdrawer
I cut the support rails to width, but double-check
the drawer rails. The
middle
S S
T T
U
in the
rails
areUjoined
into the back edge of left them extra long. Once a tongue is screws
#/8 !/2 %/8
&/8 vertical dividers and
PART
Z Z the dividers. A runner
is NAMES
attached to cut on the front end (drawing above) the support cleat.
There’s one more task before
either side of this assembly (detail and the rail is glued to the divider,
‘b,’ page 7). The drawer rails are trim each assembly to final length. moving on. The small drawer opensized to butt up to the rear support Note: The dividers are recessed from ings need stops. These are just small
blocks that butt up to the middle
rail and are held fast by screwing the edges of the drawer rails.
Now, add a drawer runner to each drawer rails and are screwed to the
them to the ends of a support cleat.
This cleat doubles as a drawer stop. side of the assemblies. Be sure to rear support rail (detail ‘c’).
install the middle support
Clamp rear drawer
rail to install centered
support cleat
9
Clamp at
front to
secure while
installing
Slide It into the Base. After attaching the two rail assemblies to the
support cleat, the entire assembly can be inserted between the drawer
rails and temporarily held in place with a clamp or two.
8
9
Adjust & Fasten. Before installing the screws, you’ll want to
carefully adjust the position of the assembly and make sure
the drawer openings are square and level.
V
W
SMALL
DRAWER
BACK
A
B
N O
E
F
G H
I
P Q
R
S
T
V W
U
J
K
Y
Z
8#/8
AA
HH
17#/8
SMALL
DRAWER V
SIDE
PART NAMES
OO
VV
DD
CC
SMALL
DRAWER
J J
KK
BOTTOM
E E
F F
GG
L L
MM
NN
P P
QQ
R R
S S
T T
UU
WW
XX
YY
ZZ
I I
17
X
2%/8
8&/8
AA
#8 x 1!/4"
1!/4Fh woodscrew
!/4"
ply.
1!/4 #8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
X BB
FIRST: !/4
This is
!/4
U
Y
%/16
SECOND: This
SIDE SECTION
2%/8
W
THIRD: This
U b.
!/16 SIDE
AA
SECTION Y
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
17#/8
CROSS SECTION
a.
W
LARGE
NOTE: This
Z DRAWER
!/4"
1!/4 ply.
SIDE
17
21#/8
17!/4
END
VIEW
LARGE
B B DRAWER
BOTTOM
TOP VIEW
26!/2
L M
Edge
profile
V Z
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
21&/8
D
C
LARGE
DRAWER
BACK
Z
V
8&/8
AA
U
W
SIDE VIEW
U
21&/8
27#/8
SMALL
DRAWER PULL
Y
DRAWER PART NAMES
(Lee Valley
LARGE
FRONT
DRAWER FRONT #01A28.40)
16(/16 #/8
!/2
%/8
&/8
#/4
V Z
!/16
!%/16
Finishing Up Drawers & Top
K
S:
W X
A
X
V
L M
Y
Z
F F
GG
MM
NN
T T
UU
B C D
N O
P Q
AA
BB
HH
I I
OO
P P
VV
WW
With the base complete, you’re down As shown at left, they’re laid out with
c.
FRONT SECTION
to a few important details. Making a standard spacing (7⁄8" on centers).
!/4
#/16
DOVETAIL
the three drawers and the top will
Profile. After cutting grooves for
Runners
LAYOUT
wrap things up.
the plywood bottoms at the table
NOTE:
This
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
Z
V
The Drawers. The drawers have saw, I took the sides to the router
X
BB
table
to
add
the
decorative
profile.
three
features
that
guide
the
work.
&/16
!/16
FIRST:dovetail
This is
CROSS SECTION
The profile is routed using a small,
First comes the half-blind
ogee bit (Amana Tool
joinery used to build the boxes. two-flute
SECOND:
This
END VIEW
#8 x 1!/4"IFh
woodscrew
V
NOTE: This
#54120)
Second,
added
an authentic
period
#8 and
x 2" is
Fh“stopped”
woodscrewshort of the
&/8
Z
ends.
To
do
this,
I set up the router straight bit. The goal is centered
detail
by
routing
a
profile
on
the
#8 xNOTE:
3" Fh This
woodscrew
TOP
OVERALL
DIMENSIONS:
FIRST: This
is VIEW
table
with
stop
blocks
clamped to grooves that are consistently positop inside edge
of the drawer
sides.
THIRD: This
#8 x 1#/4"you’ll
Fh woodscrew
Finally,
rout grooves in the the fence (box). This allows you
from side to side. I trapped
#8 xto1!/2" tioned
Fh woodscrew
!/16 FIRST:
!/8 !/4This
#/4is
CROSS
SECTION
VIEW
SECOND:SIDE
This
make
the
cuts
without
trying
to
rout
sides
to
fit
the
runners
in
the
base.
the
drawer
between the fence and a
U
&/8
x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
#/8 You’ll
!/2 %/8
&/8 the burning#8
E F G H IY J K L M Dovetails. Before getting started
to a line.
avoid
that
straightedge and made the two cuts
SECOND:
This
END VIEW
#8 the
x 3" Fh
woodscrew
during
a slow cut. #8 x 2" Fhfeeding
in opposite directions (center
on
dovetail
joinery, cut all the often occurs
woodscrew
S T This
RTHIRD:
U V W X Y Z
and
right
drawings, box below). This
parts to size. I sized the drawers to
Runner grooves. After sanding the
TOP
VIEW
!/16 !/8
#/4
DD
E E &/16
F F
CC
G
G
way,
the
cuts
on both sides can be
have
a 1⁄1!/4
profiles,
assemble
the
drawers,
and
6" gap on all sides and to sit
THIRD: This
referenced
from
the top edge. Rout
rout
runner
grooves
in
the
sides.
flush
with
the
vertical
dividers.
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
J J
KK
L L
MM N N
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
I routed the stopped grooves a test piece to check the accuracy of
Once theSIDE
partsVIEW
are ready, set up
QQ
R R
S S
T T
UU
the &/8
setup before routing the drawers.
with a single pass using a sharp#/83⁄4"!/2 %/8
your jig
and
Right
stopcreate
block the dovetails.
XX
YY
ZZ
How-to: Drawer details
Drawer
back
15!%/16
of bit
a.
END VIEW
%/32" ogee bit
%/16
V
Z
Stopped Edge Profile. To rout the stopped ogee profile, butt the drawer side up to the right stop block,
plunge into the bit, and rout to the left stop block.
9
Stop routing
when drawer
front reaches
layout line
Drawer
front
Fence helps
secure drawer
15!%/16
Left stop block
Drawer
front
1&/16
of bit
1&/16
Stop routing when
drawer front
reaches layout line
a.
Drawer
side
!%/16
Fence
Routing the Grooves. Feed in the
usual right to left direction to rout
the groove on one side.
Aux.
fence
END SECTION VIEW
#/4"
straight bit
#/4
Aux.
fence
Opposite Direction. To rout the
groove on the opposite side, you’ll
need to feed from left to right.
1!/4
OO
P P
QQ
RR
S S
VV
WW
XX
YY
ZZ
T T
UU
#/8
!/2
%/8
&/8
PART NAMES
CC
TOP
a.
When the drawers are fit to your
satisfaction, the pulls can be installed.
And this leaves just one thing to do
— make the top.
The Top
FRONT SECTION VIEW
CC
!/8"
roundover
TOP
#8 x 1" Fh
woodscrew
#/4"-dia. x
#/32"-deep
hole
Upper
end
rail
Figure-eight
Back
leg
3
Upper
end rail
Adding the top is a relaxed way to
fastener
(Rockler #21650)
finish up the table. You can start by
gluing up an oversized panel from
b.
%/16
&/8
1"-thick stock. Then take some
A and
G top
H I J K L M
B C smooth
D E F the
time to clean up
Front
NOTE: This
legOVERALL DIMENSIONS:
before cutting it to final size.
FIRST: This is
N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
CROSS SECTION
1
Cut to Size. The heavy panel was
SECOND: This
Front
END
VIEW
NOTE: Top is glued
A A table
B B saw,
D
E E
F F
C Cso ID took
GG
THIRD: This
too large for my
leg
TOP VIEWup 1"-thick hardwood
a different route.
First,
I
cut
it
to
and cut to 28" x 54" size
HH
I I
J J
KK
L L
MM N N
SIDE VIEW
rough size with a circular saw. Then
PART NAMES
OO
P P
QQ
R R
S S
T T
UU
I used a router, a straightedge, and perimeter, as shown above. I mor- The top should be centered with a
W W itXto
X finished
YY
Z Z tised one into the top of each leg
3" overhang on each side and a 1"
a flush-trim bitV Vto trim
size. Finally, I switched to a round and one in the center of each end overhang on the front and back.
Once the top is screwed down,
over bit to ease the edges.
rail (details ‘a’ and ‘b’). The mortise
you’re
ready to apply a finish. I sugis
just
a
shallow
hole
drilled
with
a
The last task. Now you can install
gest using a high-quality stain. (I
the top on the base. The inside of Forstner bit (main drawing).
After screwing the fasteners to chose Varathane’s Early American.)
the base has limited access, so I
mounted the top with figure-eight the legs, you can position the top on After all, your library table will be
fasteners positioned around the the base and mark for pilot holes. around for a long, long time.
!/8"
roundo
SIDE VIEW
CC
#8 x 1!/4"
Fh woodscrew
TOP
!/16 !/8
!/4
#/4
#/8
%/8
&/8
!/2
Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram
A Legs (4)
3 x 3 - 29
B Upper End Rails (2)
1 x 33⁄4 - 22
C Lower End Rails (2)
1 x 3 - 22
D End Ledgers (2)
1 x 21⁄4 - 20
E Back Rail (1)
1 x 33⁄4 - 44
F Back Ledger (1)
1 x 13⁄4 - 42
G Upper Drawer Rail (1) 1 x 23⁄4 - 44
H Lower Drawer Rail (1) 1 x 23⁄4 - 44
I Stretcher (1)
11⁄2 x 3 - 45
1⁄ x 21⁄ - 3⁄
J Leg False Tenons (4)
2
2
8
3⁄ x 21⁄ - 3⁄
K Stretcher False Tenons (2)
4
4
8
3⁄ x 21⁄ - 13
L Corbels (8)
4
2
3⁄ x 33⁄ - 461⁄
M Rear Drawer Rail (1) 4
4
4
N End Drawer Support Rails (2) 3⁄4 x 23⁄4 - 16
3 ⁄ x 1⁄ - 163⁄
O Drawer Runners (6)
4
4
4
P End Rail Spacers (4)
1 x 7⁄8 - 33⁄4
Q Vertical Drawer Dividers (2) 1 x 25⁄8 - 23⁄4
R Middle Drawer Rails (2)
1 x 23⁄4 - 165⁄8
3⁄ x 23⁄ - 22
S Drawer Support Cleat (1)
4
4
3 ⁄ x 11⁄ - 23⁄
T Drawer Stops (2)
4
2
4
3 ⁄ x 25⁄ - 87⁄
U Small Drawer Fronts (2)
4
8
8
1⁄ x 25⁄ - 173⁄
V Small Drawer Sides (4)
2
8
8
3 ⁄ x 25⁄ - 87⁄
W Small Drawer Backs (2)
4
8
8
X Small Drawer Bottoms (2) 1⁄4 ply. - 17 x 83⁄8
3 ⁄ x 25⁄ - 217⁄
Y Large Drawer Front (1)
4
8
8
1⁄ x 25⁄ - 173⁄
Z Large Drawer Sides (2)
2
8
8
3⁄ x 25⁄ - 217⁄
AA Large Drawer Back (1) 4
8
8
BB Large Drawer Bottom (1) 1⁄4 ply. - 17 x 213⁄8
CC Top (1)
1 x 28 - 54
• (14) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews
• (16) #8 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
• (12) #8 x 1" Fh Woodscrews
• (18) #8 x 5⁄8" Fh Woodscrews
• (3) Dark Bronze Bail Pulls w/Screws
• (6) Figure-Eight Fasteners
10
1#/4"x 6"- 60" Quartersawn White Oak (Two boards @ 5 Bd. Ft. each)
A
A
A
A
1#/4"x 4"- 48" Quartersawn White Oak (2.7 Bd. Ft.)
I
1"x 4"- 96" Quartersawn White Oak (3.3 Bd. Ft.)
A (For leg veneer)
A (For leg veneer)
J
A (For leg veneer)
C
B
B
K
C
D
D
E
H
G
P
QQ
R
F
R
1"x 7!/2"- 60" Quartersawn White Oak (Four boards @ 3.9 Bd. Ft. each)
CC
#/4"x 5"- 96" Quartersawn White Oak (3.3 Bd. Ft.)
N
M
#/4"x 5!/2"- 96" Quartersawn White Oak (3.7 Bd. Ft.)
L
L
L
L
L
L
Y
U
U
S
O
N
T
L
L
#/4"x 3"- 48" Hard Maple (1 Bd. Ft.)
W
W
AA
!/2"x 6"- 60" Hard Maple (2.5 Sq. Ft.)
V
V
Z
V
V
Z
ALSO NEEDED: One 24"x 48" sheet !/4" Maple plywood
Tips From
Our Shop
Shop Notebook
Dowel Joinery
When it came to adding the corbels
to the library table, I decided to use
dowels to reinforce the joint between the end of the corbel and the
rails (drawing at right). This created
a couple of challenges.
Drill Holes. The first was drilling
holes for the dowels in the ends of
the corbels. Drilling into hard end
grain isn’t easy, especially in oak. The
drill bit tends to wander off course.
The solution was to clamp each
corbel in the vise on my workbench
and use a doweling jig and a handheld drill to drill the hole (Figure 1).
The doweling jig guides the drill bit
and prevents it from wandering.
TRANSFER LOCATIONS. The second
challenge was to come up with a
way to accurately transfer the location of the holes from the corbels to
the bottom of the rail or ledger.
To do this, I simply placed a dowel
center in the hole I just drilled in
1
2
Use doweling
jig to guide
drill bit
!/2"-dia.
drill bit
the end of the corbel. Then, using
a combination square to help position the corbel, I pressed it in place
against the ledger. The dowel center presses into the wood, creating
a dimple on the rail or ledger. This
is illustrated in Figure 2.
Finally, you can drill matching
holes in the rails for the dowels (Figure 3), and glue the corbels in place.
!/2"-dia.
dowel
Corbel
Dowel Joint. Dowels are used to strengthen the joint between the end of
the corbels and the rails of the library table.
NOTE: Table is
turned upside-down
3
Use square to
position
corbel
Drill hole at
mark left by
dowel center
!/2"-dia.
bradpoint
bit
Doweling
jig
Corbel
11
False Tenons
Making the false tenons for the
Craftsman library table posed a bit
of a challenge. Because the false
tenons are cut from end grain, you
can’t just simply cut them from a
long, narrow strip of wood.
The solution is a simple one. I
planed down a blank to match the
1
2
Sanding
block
Round over
edges slightly
Cut
false
tenon
from end
of blank
Auxiliary
fence
#/8
False tenon is glued
into mortise and
stands !/8" proud
of surface
False Tenons. End grain plugs give
the library table the look of through
tenons without all the work.
!/16"
roundover
12
width of the mortise and ripped
it to match the length of the mortise. Then, using a sanding block, I
rounded over the ends (Figure 1).
After cutting the false tenon free
at the table saw (Figure 2), simply
round over the ends of the blank
again to make the next tenon.

craftsman library table

Transcription

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