Leo Baekeland Diary Volume 39, 1925

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[[Front cover of diary with white label on binding. Large letter B on part
of label visible from the front.]]
Transcribed and Reviewed by Digital Volunteers
Extracted Sep-15-2016 12:01:49
AC 0005
Diary 39
[[sticker]]
Phone Vanderbilt 10497
Drimmer Stationery Co.
Printers - Engravers
Office Outfitters
43 East 46th Street
Near Madison Ave. New York
[[/sticker]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
39 [[preprinted]] *3145 [[/preprinted]]
Journal of Dr. L.H. Baekeland
"Snug Rock", Harmony Park
Yonkers, N.Y.
U.S.A.
from February 2, 1925
to March 25, 1925
[[Blank page]]
[[End page]]
[[Start page]]
1925
1
Feb 2. 1925.
Arrive Chicago with Century Limited ahead of time. Mild weather less
snow than East. There was much snow in Syracuse and upper New
York.
Drove to office of Bakelite Corporation with [[underline]] George
Baekeland [[/underline]]; Redman there. With him, Karpen, George B,
Bract and Wyeth all day conference on funding problems. [[underline]]
Rossi [[/underline]] should have been there but did not arrive. Urged
understudies for [[underline]] Rossi [[/underline]] and for [[underline]]
Shannon [[/underline]]. The latter should be a Chicago man ^[[well]]
acquainted with Chicago technique in transparent goods. Drove with
George to Drake Hotel and I left on 8:10 train Overland Limited
Feb 3. Bright and sunny. mild weather. Not much
2
snow. Same monotonous [[underline]] Nebraska [[/underline]]
landscape.
Feb 4. Awakened at Green river. Glad to see some hills. Very mild.
hardly any snow. Conductor says [[underline]] sometimes it snows here
in July [[/underline]]. Then [[underline]] Wyoming and Utah [[/underline]].
Mild with snowy patches here and there
Feb. 5. Early morning. In [[underline]] California [[/underline]] in the
mountains and Douglas Fir forests. Snow and snowsheds Then
[[strikethrough]] snow [[/strikethrough]] on [[underline]] other side no
snow[[/underline]]. Green trees on mountains. - Mild weather but rain
and cloudy. Grass very green. train absolutely on time. Drizzling rain in
[[underline]] San Francisco [[/underline]]. Had to wait from 3 to 7 P.M at
[[strikethrough]] Plo [[/strikethrough]] Palace Hotel [[strikethrough]] alt
[[/strikethrough]] for
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
3
a room altho' had wired for reservation since Monday. Went to San
Carlos Opera Company. ^[[(Italian]] - "Madame Butterfly main role by a
Japanese artist. [[strikethrough]] Pouri [[/strikethrough]] Walked to the
hotel in pouring rain.
Feb 6. Bright sunny skies. So can go out and purchase supplies and
take a walk to Fisherman's Wharf. [[strikethrough]] Mostly
[[/strikethrough]] Almost exclusively Italians Well kept Motor boats
double enders. Italian shape but well kept. Community seems
prosperous. Pretty fish stalls where incoming crabs are boiled.
Three coast guard patrol motor boats for hunting for [[underlined]] rhum
runners [[/underlined]].
Feb 7. At 10 AM boarded my ship for [[underlined]] Shang^[[h]]ai
[[/underlined]]. The
4
"President Taft". I have a cabin all to myself for which I pay double rates.
New 21000 ton ship very modern and substantial but no attempt at
fancy things. [[underline]] All service [[/underline]] except crew are
[[underline]] Chinese. [[/underline]] Ship is [[underline]] "dry"
[[/underline]] and runs under American flag. (Shipping board)
Many [[underline]] Chinese and Japanese [[/underline]] and their wives
and children All dressed in Western Clothes and [[underline]] look
smaller and homelier than ever. [[/underline]] In their kimonos or Oriental
clothes at least they look picturesque Many fat Chinese and their fat
wives and [[underline]] all degrees of Eurasians. [[/underline]]
[[strikethrough]] Then [[/strikethrough]]I see no negroes. I notice a group
of black turbaned [[underline]] shiks; [[/underline]] tall erect, muscu
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
5
lar, bearded. But for their bronze dark color they look like Sout
Europeans except that they are decidedly taller. and thin legs
At 4 P.M gave myself the second injection [[underline]] antityphoid.
[[/underline]] serum. Just 10 days ago. Dr. Getty gave me the first. Pain
and feverishness starts during dinner and continues during night
Feb 8. (Sunday) Pain somewhat subsided but feeling of sore muscles all
thru my body
Sunny and little wind but strong swells causing much rolling. Spent day
reading
Feb 9. [[underline]] Still pain in arm and muscular pains [[/underline]] in
neck and sides last night. but improving. Strong head seas and much
pitching. Temperature milder [[underline]] Cinema [[/underline]] show
every night
6
Feb 10. Sunny but some head winds and much rolling. [[underline]] Pain
[[/underline]] on arm of typhoid - serum [[underline]] has ceased
[[/underline]]
Feb. 11. Much milder temperature Moderate wind but persisting swells.
I weigh [[underline]] 186 [[/underline]] lbs all dressed
6 (heavy rubber shoes & blue suit & hat
Probably = [[underline]] 180 lbs. [[/underline]]
Feb 12. Mild, slightly sultry. Light winds, swells very moderate.
[[underline]] Chinamen all gambling Fan tan [[/underline]] etc. on after
steerage deck.
A violent rain squall lasting several hours in afternoon
Feb 13. Made [[underline]] Honolulu [[/underline]] early in morning.
Lovely weather cabled [[strikethrough]] home [[/strikethrough]] to
Bakelite: [[underline]] All well. [[/underline]] by Radio rates
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
7
[[underline]] 33 cents [[/underline]] a word. Cabled also to [[underline]]
Sankyo [[/underline]] I am coming. rates [[underline]] 54 cents
[[/underline]] to Yokohama. Astonishing amount of large substantial
cement concrete buildings since 1914. Other new buildings in
construction Clean well kept [[underline]] modern streets, [[/underline]]
well stocked stores and general air of prosperity and cheerfulness.
Kanakas, Chinamen, Japanese and every admixture as well as white
men; all look prosperous, healthy and alert. Temperature 80 pleasant
climate. [[underline]] People [[/underline]] here are [[underline]] not afraid
of being polite or courteous: [[/underline]] Since 1914 I have visited
many places in the Tropics run as colonies or under other
8
Governments. None compares with Honolulu. [[underline]] What a
difference with Jamaica. [[/underline]] Everybody young and old looks
alert and spick and span. [[underline]] School children [[/underline]] of
every race or color (there are no negroes) are [[strikethrough]] well
dressed [[/strikethrough]], [[underline]] well behaved [[/underline]] simply
but cleanly and comfortably dressed and the whole community bears the
stamp of prosperity and alertness.- What a curse thou negro slaves,
prepared for the U.S or the West Indies! [[strikethrough]] Want
[[/strikethrough]] Beautifully kept parks. Ditto Post Office; well kept well
run.
Went to [[underline]] Waikiki Beach [[/underline]] same [[underline]]
outrigger-canoes [[/underline]] and seaplaning. Then a stroll along the
wharves
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
9
Fishing boats all [[underline]] Sampans [[/underline]] run by [[underline]]
Japanese or Chino-Japanese. Sampans [[/underline]] simple
construction but well kept and [[underline]] immaculately clean
[[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] Most have [[/strikethrough]] Almost all have
motor, besides sail and small masts, on tabernacle. Gear kept in first
class condition
On returning to our dock I find [[underline]] British ship for Australia
[[/underline]] SS. Aorangi just arrived she is [[underline]] the first Dieselmotor ship [[/underline]] of her size 23000 tons and this is her first
voyage. Looks very impressive and is filled with passengers. Came from
Van Couver and struck exceptionally bad weather. Life.boats carried
away and some passengers
10
injured but motors behaved well -- This is the bad weather North which
produced those disagreeable [[strikethrough]] swel [[/strikethrough]]
ground swells which kept us rolling so much - This [[underline]] motor
ship is the forerunner of many of the kind for long distance passenger
service [[/underline]] She makes 18 knots.
SS."President Taft" can make 20 and even 21 knots. Has [[underline]]
Turbines [[/underline]]
On Waikiki beach I entered in conversation with a man who was
connected with the Inter-Island steamer service. and who was a
Hollander who used to be on a freighter between [[underline]] Java and
Ghent [[/underline]] I am transferred to a better room. Cabin No. 112
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
11
which I hired all to myself. Excellent accomodation. after one of the little
beds is folded up. Special wash and toilet room annexed with excellent
[[underline]] fresh water [[/underline]] shower bath. This is real luxury.
The best cabin I ever had on any ship. I paid [[underline]] $610
[[/underline]] from San Francisco to Sanghai. Every room is taken.
Ther are an enormous amount of motor cars in Honolulu all driven by
[[underline]] Japs or Chinese or Tanakas [[/underline]] if not by white or
mixed breeds.
Stores are exceptionally well provisioned and I have no doubt that the
per capita buying power of Honolulu is decidedly greater than most
communities in the U.S.
12
Left at 4:00 P.M. Channel to Harbor straight and well buoyed. Beautiful
weather. Temperature in cabin 80°
Feb 14. Same temperature same beautiful weather
Name of my cabin boy is [[underline]] Ah - [[strikethrough]] Thin
[[/strikethrough]] Ching
[[/underline]]
[[strikethrough]] Feb. 15. [[/strikethrough]] This evening there is a
[[underline]] "Hard times dinner party". [[/underline]] Passengers put on
old clothes or hired overalls, and try to look as stevedores, roughs etc.
Table cloths are blue paper napkins, The Chinese waiters are in their
cheapest clothes, each table is lighted by a candle; there is saw dust on
the floor and the menu is written on misspelled announcements tacked
on the wall. Only one plate with an enormous beef[[end page]]
[[start page]]
13
steak. Then dancing, one or two of the passengers a couple of
Yokohama and 2 women from Heaven [[strikethrough]] no were
[[/strikethrough]] knows from where, [[underline]] tried to look more
common than they were naturally but did not succeed. [[/underline]]
Nevertheless everything went off well and there was dancing till late.
Beautiful bright starlit sky. I saw "Ursa Major" and the Polar Star in
exceptional brightness, and opposite the Southern Cross, with "Orion"
as a brilliant transition
Feb 15. (Sunday) Nice and warm but more windy. Afternoon rain.
Feb. 16. Sunny and still mild. More deck games. Potato races. Spar
pillow fight "Cracker eating". Put the eye in the pig's head. Peanut race
14
Egg and spoon race. Human wheelbarrow race. "Casey are you there?"
Valise and shoe race etc.
Feb 17. [[underline]] A lost day, [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] lat.
180°[[/strikethrough]] longitude 180°
Feb 18. Gave myself [[strikethrough]] last [[/strikethrough]] third and
[[underline]] last injection of anti-typhoid serum. [[/underline]] Very little
reaction, almost no pain
Evening [[underline]] Bal Masqué. [[/underline]] Cannibals - Chinamen,
Pirates Arabs etc.
Slightly cooler. The shower baths measures 4'x 3'
but 3'x 3' would be ample for my yacht.
Total dimensions of wash room & shower bath are
[[image: diagram of wash room and shower bath with annotations "w.c.",
"4'", and "7½'"]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
15
Got a [[strikethrough]] cable [[/strikethrough]] wireless from Yokohama
signed [[underline]] Taguchi, [[/underline]] welcoming me.
Feb 19. Light head winds Lat 25°.
Evening amateur concert and entertainment. Mock trial
All well arranged. One of my [[strikethrough]] pass [[/strikethrough]]
fellow-passengers who is very studious is
[[underline]] Prince Ohyama, [[/underline]] (9 Onden, Aoyama Tokyo)
who is a [[underline]] Captain in the Imperial Army of Japan [[/underline]]
and who is deeply engaged in studying [[underline]] Anthropology
[[/underline]] in a German Textbook. He is a very cheerful fellow, father
of 5 children and [[underline]] speaks better German than English.
[[/underline]] He tells me it [[underline]] takes an intelligent Japanese
about one year to be able to read English and about 1½ years to speak
it [[/underline]] He says [[underline]] English is easiest to acquire for a
Japanese. [[/underline]] Next comes [[underline]] French; and German
[[/underline]] is
16
the most difficult. He is a very flat-faced,
^[[much]] brown skinned medium sized, and all in all a very pleasant
man
his Japanese card bears [[underline]] Koshaku Oh yama Kashiwa.
(Prince) [[/underline]]
All the [[underline]] Japanese [[/underline]] on board are very pleasant,
cheerful men
Feb. 20. More deck games. Same moderate headwinds. Slightly cooler,
making more
Northing.
There is a [[underline]] young Japanese [[/underline]] of very pleasant
manners who [[underline]] speaks French [[/underline]] and is a
Lieutenant in the Navy and Attaché [[strikethrough]] tout
[[/strikethrough]] to the [[underline]] Japanese Ambassy in Paris.
[[/underline]] His name is [[underline]] Yoshitane Kiutchi. [[/underline]] He
learned his French in Paris.
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
17
[[underline]] Cinema show every other [[/underline]] evening.
Feb 21. Still pleasant weather but temp in cab is now around 70°
This is the winter-route which keeps decidedly below lat. 30°
To morrow we shall make a Northerly slant.
Evening [[underline]] gala dinner in honor of passengers leaving at
Yokohama [[/underline]]
Feb 22 (Sunday) Slightly cooler
Temp in cabin, 68°F but still pleasant and bright. Had to put o my winter
undershirt but still wearing light suit. Wrote letter to Celine.
Washington's Birthday: Little ^[[paper]] hatchets distributed at dinner
[[underline]] Feb 23. [[/underline]] Up early. Bright snappy weather. Cold.
[[underline]] Fushiyama [[underline]] snow covered and glistening with
snow
18
covered mountain range near by. [[underline]] Shore shows snowy
patches, [[/underline]] some of them exactly square and the contour of
cultivated fields. Winter underwear and overcoat needed. Water very
calm. I cannot recognize any of the old landmarks. [[underline]] Place
looks totally different from 1914. [[/underline]] Multitude of small
temporary structures. [[strikethrough]] Then [[/strikethrough]] New
breakwater, new lighthouse new wharves all under construction and
substantially built of most modern design. Steamers instead of
anchoring in the bay as in 1914 now come along the wharves.
[[underline]] Shiohara and Taguchi, [[/underline]] waiting in the snow and
waving hands to me. Have been there probably since early. It
[[underline]] snowed [[/underline]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
19
[[underline]] much yesterday. [[/underline]] To day thaws so there is
sleet and thick mud. Took train to [[underline]] Tokyo. This city has
entirely changed. [[/underline]] Streets torn up and everybody wading
thru brown liquid mud, which plashes on everything and on everybody.
Jinricksa-men in socks and sandals [[strikethrough]] plash
[[/strikethrough]] running cheerfully thru brown liquid mud; motor car
splashed with mud over windows and everywhere. Many [[underline]]
imposing new steel-concrete buildings [[/underline]] have arisen, all well
built and of several stories just as the best American buildings. Our
[[underline]] steamer leaves at 3 P.M. [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] Th
[[/strikethrough]] insufficient time for conference with [[underline]]
Shiohara [[/underline]] and visit. So [[strikethrough]] went
[[/strikethrough]] drove to station to engage berth to [[underline]] Kobe
[[/underline]] for to nights train and there
20
join steamer tomorrow afternoon. Station very busy ever going and
coming Japanese in [[underline]] all varieties of Japanese and Western
dress, [[/underline]] or the oddest combinations thereof - Most of them
[[strikethrough]] either [[/strikethrough]] whether Japanese or Western
dressed jump around on their [[underline]] stilted wooden japanese
plank shoes, [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] whe [[/strikethrough]] of which
the [[strikethrough]] obvious [[/strikethrough]] advantages in this
[[underline]] muddy streets are obvious, [[/underline]] others have simply
[[underline]] mat-sandals [[/underline]] and their [[underline]] one-toed
[[strikethrough]] sh [[/strikethrough]] socks [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]]
which [[/strikethrough]] so that their feet sink deep in the mud. Do not
seem to mind it nor the lower part of their legs exposed to the cold
weather. Others again dressed Western have half top [[underline]]
rubber boots reached to about their calves [[/underline]] and their
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
21
trousers tucked in it. Many have their [[underline]] head bundled in a
dark handkerchief [[/underline]] or similar wrapper. Others wear a
[[underline]] square lap tied over their mouth. [[/underline]] In the same
way [[underline]] coolies, [[/underline]] pushing carts or carrying bundles
have a handkerchief tied over their mouth.- [[underline]] Dread of cold
air [[/underline]] or is it influenza which is ^[[reported]] prevalent here.
Funny sight also to see them wear [[underline]] on both ears pieces of
rabbit fur which gives them a still more comical look in combination of
round celluloid goggles, [[/underline]] mouth [[strikethrough]] fu
[[/strikethrough]] mufflers and plank-shoe stilts. The thermometer is not
very low is above 32°F but the [[underline]] damp cold wind is very
[[/underline]]
22
penetrating. I have my winter underwear and winter clothes and a
woolen [[strikethrough]] woo [[/strikethrough]] knit extra waist coat under
my light overcoat. A heavy winter coat would be more comfortable.
[[underline]] Sankyo Building [[/underline]] is an imposing fireproof
concrete steel building, very new. Has Otis [[underline]] Elevators
[[/underline]] and would make a good impression in any American City.
One would never imagine to be in [[strikethrough]] Ja [[/strikethrough]]
Tokyo, except for Japanese Inscriptions along prominent
[[strikethrough]] American [[/strikethrough]] English printed signs and
posters. Decidedly [[underline]] more American looking equipment
[[/underline]] than English. [[strikethrough]] Mat [[/strikethrough]] All
[[underline]] women in office wear kimonos. [[/underline]] Men wear
Western Clothes. Everywhere most modern office equipment, American
made.
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
23
Excellent restaurant, for business men in the building. Exquisitely
prepared Western dishes, well served in clean surroundings and
[[underline]] scrupulously clean [[/underline]] and glistening tableware.
After lunch [[underline]] Shiohara [[/underline]] took me to a well
equipped photographic studio in the building where our group and my
separate portrait were made. What is most striking is [[underline]] the
energy and cheerfulness with which the Japanese have promptly put
themselves [[/underline]] to the immense task of rebuilding their
destroyed city. [[underline]] No whining or wailing.- [[/underline]] a
determination to accept things as they are and [[underline]] with a smile
[[/underline]] rebuild a better city. In the mean time everywhere
24
small wooden temporary houses and buildings have been erected,
[[underline]] wood and corrugated iron. [[/underline]] New and wider
roads are being built an in the mean time they splash thru the muddy
thorough fares while everywhere at intervals new imposing large
modern buildings have arisen or are in construction under most
[[underline]] up to date American methods.- No wonder those people felt
keenly the insult which our boorish Congress unnecessarily heaped
upon them at a time when they were staggering under a load of
[[strikethrough]] the [[/strikethrough]] calamities. [[/underline]] All what
they wanted was the continuation of the "Gentlemen's agreement" which
they had faithfully kept and
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
25
naturally cannot understand why the United States wanted to insult them
without any visible reason
^[[(Immigration of Japanese forbidden)]]
Long conference with [[underline]] Shiohara and Taguchi, [[/underline]]
the latter translating. Told them our situation and [[underline]] why we
have been compelled to delay our arrangement on account of our
rapidly increasing production and business problems. [[/underline]] How
we are under impression that the field here is too small to make it
worthwhile to deviate our attention at a moment when all our efforts are
required at home.
He tells me [[underline]] field is increasing [[/underline]] and will increase
further and that nevertheless they have [[underline]] made 10% profit
[[/underline]] (after all deductions) on their invested capital of about
[[underline]] 6000000 yen. [[/underline]]
26
He [[underline]] proposes either a company in which we are jointly
interested, or a royalty of 5% [[/underline]] on all sales, or a payment of
stock in Sankyo [[strikethrough]] of [[/strikethrough]] Co. so that we
become stockholders in the latter. the stock now is [[underline]] worth
120. [[/underline]]
Drove to factory where [[underline]] bakelite [[/underline]] is made. One
story [[underline]] frame buildings, light wooden construction (for
Earthquakes) cement floors. Good equipment. Good engineering.
[[/underline]] Set of presses, large and small. Very large press (all
hydraulic) for [[underline]] laminated goods, [[/underline]] erected but
never used thus far. [[underline]] Engineering and chemical staff
intelligent [[/underline]]
Molding from imported [[underline]] #420 good. [[/underline]] Molds and
dies good. [[underline]] Workmen [[/underline]] make
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
27
[[underline]] good impression. [[/underline]] Whole plant well [[underline]]
conceived. [[/underline]] Have made 2 small experimental tilting kettles
& stills [[underline]] for varnish, are still experimenting. [[/underline]]
[[strikethrough]] Transpare [[/strikethrough]]
They mould bakelite parts for Jap. Govt.
^[[Government]] and Jap. Navy. Among the latter some solid steering
wheel handles for Jap. Navy Equipment, well molded.
[[strikethrough]] Make [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] Transparent
[[/underline]] large plates about ½" thick by about 20"x 14"
Also ditto rods ½" and ¾". Also 3", and rings, many colors,
[[strikethrough]] all [[/strikethrough]] mostly for [[underline]] China
"Genuine Chinese Amber"! [[/underline]] same as was sold me as such
in Egypt! [[strikethrough]] They [[/strikethrough]]
Transparent discs about or 3/16 thick about 6" or 7" diameter used for
[[underline]] Navy for dial plates (Gauges or Gyro?) [[/underline]] instead
38
of glass by Jap. Navy.
Instead of making them transparent A in nickel-kettles as we do. they
have a row of 2 liter glass flasks and ditto reflux condenser, all heated
on a row of water baths or directly heated gas burners. lined along the
wall, somewhat in same way as Kjeldal determination batteries are
installed in laboratories.
The [[underline]] rods are cast in glass tubes. [[/underline]]
They made some attempts at making bakelite hollow tubes but no good
success. [[underline]] Do no know our lead molding [[/underline]]
methods. [[underline]] Glass plates are [[/underline]] made between
[[underline]] nickel plated [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] partion
[[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] partitions [[/underline]] screwed together.
All bakelizing
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
29
is done in a [[underline]] heavy upright bakelizer [[/underline]] about 6
feet diameter with heavy cast iron lid on top and about 4 feet (I am not
sure) deep. Use air. no carbonic acid. [[underline]] Told them about CO2
and use of oil. [[/underline]]
[[underline]] Yamamoto [[/underline]] their chemical Engineer is a
graduate of the [[underline]] University of Tokio [[/underline]] and seems
very competent. Does not speak English. Tells me that he tries to
eliminate excess phenol by washing so as to obtain lens darkening but
has not succeeded.
They sell 50000 yen of [[underline]] Dilecto [[/underline]] a year.
[[strikethrough]] Tana [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] Trakata Co
[[/underline]] (just in bankrupcy) [[underline]] imports Westinghouse
Micartha [[/underline]] in competition They [[underline]] import
formaldehyde from U.S. and Phenol and Cresol from England.
[[/underline]] They had a small
30
synthetic phenol plant (1 ton per day?) during the war but have
discontinued
[[underline]] Mitsu [[/underline]] and Co make still [[underline]] synthetic
phenol. [[/underline]] They say it costs them 15 cents a pound which is
the price at which Sankyo import it now from England. Duty on
[[underline]] phenol [[/underline]] is about 2 c a lb. [[underline]] Cresol
imported [[underline]] from England about 12 cents a lb. delivered and
duty paid. Some Cresol produced from Government Steel Works.
They make:
1/ [[underline]] Molded goods [[/underline]] from our imported molding
mixtures
2/ [[underline]] Transparent bakelite [[/underline]]
3/ Sell imported Dilecto about 50000 yen yearly
[[underline]] 700000 yen [[/underline]] has been invested both as fixed
and operating
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
31
Capital (fixed capital = machinery, equipment & buildings) [[underline]]
Taguchi [[/underline]] will mail inventory They have made 10% net after
all deductions including taxes. Left [[strikethrough]] towar
[[/strikethrough]] at 5:30 P.M. [[underline]] Shiolain & Taguchi
[[/underline]] took me to a [[underline]] Japanese Restaurant.
[[/underline]] rather hurried Japanese meal, shoes off, squatting on mats
Geishas, turtle soup, tea, fish boiled, dried etc. - excellent sake', tea etc.
everything in time [[underline]] to catch night express [[/underline]] which
leaves 7:00 P.M. [[underline]] Taguchi [[/underline]] goes with me.
[[underline]] Little train. [[/underline]] 2 double berthed narrow
compartments with sliding door between much like [[underline]] English
style. [[/underline]]
[[underline]] Feb. 24 [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] Cold w
[[/strikethrough]] Up early. Cold wintry landscape. Fields barren and no
green but carefully furrowed. Little wooden houses, [[underline]] paper
windows [[/underline]] must
32
feel cold in weather like this. [[underline]] men and women muffled; lacks
the cheerful [[/underline]] aspect and bright colors [[underline]] of
summer. Winter is no time to be in Japan. [[/underline]] Hilly country
pretty sky line. Then flat cultivated patches, for rice and vegetables. Pine
woods, then extensive woods of very straight and tall bamboo.
[[underline]] Kyoto [[/underline]] Picturesque houses. Orange on the
trees and bamboos, but water in the ponds [[underline]] covered with
ice. Cold [[/underline]] wind blowing. At station see groups of school
children, boys and girls red cheeked, little keen eyes peeping out of their
round faces. and slap-slap noise of their wooden stilt shoes. They are all
out
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
33
on a school picnic. - eager with expectation, looks sturdy and
[[strikethrough]] stron [[/strikethrough]] cheerful short but stocky.
[[underline]] Do not seem to mid the cold weather [[/underline]] and go
lustily out to the open country
[[underline]] Osaka [[/underline]] Many many [[underline]] tall chimneys,
and large industrial cement buildings [[/underline]] and between all this
an endless mount of small houses, clustered along a labrinth of crooked
streets Dangers [[underline]] fire-traps. [[/underline]] No wonder whole
cities burn at one time here. Very [[underline]] large population
Thousands of every kind [[underline]] population coming in and out of
the station Most [[underline]] incongruous [[/underline]] variety of
costumes. Amongst men [[strikethrough]] Eur [[/strikethrough]] Western
Clothes seem to predominate here. This being the [[underline]] industrial
[[/underline]] and most [[underline]] modernized [[/underline]] town of
Japan. Yet next to
34
large industrial establishments I see [[underline]] every instance of
conservation in old ways [[/underline]] and of cheapness of labor. Men
digging gravel carry it in baskets same as the Arabs in Egypt.
In other case gravel is carried on 2 wooden platters hanging on bamboo
pole balanced on shoulders, Chinese fashion Further on where a ditch is
being dug a [[underline]] coolie works a pump by treading paddles
[[/underline]] which rotate a contrivance for pumping [[underline]] similar
to the cheap labor devices of Egypt. [[/underline]]
Arrived [[underline]] Kobe [[/underline]] at 9:00 AM drove to [[underline]]
Oriental Hotel [[/underline]] in motor Car. Jinricksas too cold
[[strikethrough]] Oriental [[/strikethrough]] Streets cement or asphalt. No
snow here but bitter cold wind. [[underline]] Hotel [[/underline]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
35
[[underline]] excellent and entirely modern [[/underline]] Clean and not
expensive Excellent service - excellent cooking. [[underline]] Feel so
cold [[/underline]] that I am [[underline]] hugging the steam radiators.
[[/underline]]
Send cable to [[underline]] Bakelite [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] and
[[/strikethrough]] ^[[in New York]] acquainting them with result of my visit
in Tokyo and conclusions also one securing room Sanghai Hotel. paid
yen 18.35
[[underline]] SS. Pres. Taft [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] instead of
[[/strikethrough]] several hours late on account of strong wind arrived 6
P.M. at dock. Went aboard [[underline]] with supply of Sake' and Beer
bought in Kobe. [[/underline]] Supper with [[underline]] Taguchi
[[/underline]] At hotel but went to [[underline]] sleep aboard steamer.
[[/underline]] Hour [[strikethrough]] warm [[/strikethrough]] comfortably
warm and cheerful is my little stateroom and its hot shower!
[[underline]] Feb 25. [[/underline]] Ship will leave at 10 A.M. Same bitter
cold wind [[underline]] Am told Pekin and Sanghai [[/underline]] even
colder. Have a sore throat
36
now - Conclude to give up visit to Pekin. Will go there some other time
when climate is better.
There are [[underline]] Sampans and Junks [[/underline]] of every
description around. This is a [[underline]] beautiful roomy harbor,
excellent wharves [[/underline]] docks, and general equipment, all new
well and substantially built - good modern Engineering. Many large
steamers at anchor or near wharves: Basins crowded with [[underline]]
Sampans [[/underline]] Almost all [[underline]] ketch rigged [[/underline]]
with balanced lug sails braced by bamboo stays the thin end of the
bamboo nearest to the luff of the sail. Some have Western sails without
stays, some have the foresail stayed
[[left margin]] Japanese & Chinese boat rig [[/left margin]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
37
and the mizzen sail, loose footed and without stays. [[underline]] Most
have no bowsprit and [[/underline]] carry a forestay sail and no jib.
others carry forestay, jib and flying jib and have a long jib-boom. The
masts are stepped in [[underline]] wooden tabernacles [[/underline]] and
fastened with 2 iron bolts and an iron collar on top. [[underline]] Masts
are tall, [[/underline]] foremast as high as over all length. Some have
only 1 shroud on each side. They carry a spur geared winch before fore
mast with which they handle ground tackle or [[strikethrough]] ha
[[/strikethrough]] set up or lower their masts. To lower foremast they first
use winch, then sling throat or top halyard of mizzen over foremast, thus
lower or rise gradually when the forestay, passed thru a block at the
boom has no longer
[[left margin]] There is an active yacht club at Kobe see page 43. [[/left
margin]]
38
command by means of the winch.
Booms of sails are not bamboo but regular spars.
The rudder has the following shape and is very deep acting as a keel:
[[image: diagram of a rudder labeled "a" and tiller arm labeled "b"]]
This can be tilted in shallow water by hooking on a back stay on
[[underline]] a [[/underline]]
The upper part of the rubber post, when in straight position fits between
two upright thick planks or joists and is kept in that position, while
steering, by means of a rope gasket. The rudder post tilts at b. against
the stern board in which there is a recess.
[[image: diagram of two halves of the boat's stern separated by a vertical
opening]]
The stern of the boat has an opening in 2 rear planks in which the stern
post is held when it is put up
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
39
in service and straight.
Numerous [[underline]] batted sails [[/underline]] out give a very
[[underline]] oriental aspect [[/underline]] to this otherwise modern port.
Very pretty back grounds of mountains beyond the City. [[underline]]
Kobe [[/underline]] looks prosperous and has many well kept business
buildings, not large but seems comfortable and very suitable.
[[underline]] Numerous banks, Japanese, Chinese, American British,
Dutch, French [[/underline]] etc all well housed. Many [[underline]] shops
well provided [[/underline]] with domestic and imported goods. I notice
that the fishermen in their [[underline]] open sampan, keep a woodfire
burning, unconcerned about the flames licking the sides [[/underline]]
and thwarts of their boats and trying to [[underline]] catch a little touch of
warmth from this [[/underline]] inefficient contrivance.
40
Ship left promptly at 10 AM. Very pretty shore and [[strikethrough]]
mountain [[/strikethrough]] crenelated ridge of hills then enter
[[underline]] Inland Sea. A wonderful succession of hilly Islands,
[[/underline]] some of them in the distance mountainous and snow
capped. Endless sampans & Junks, with their [[underline]] bamboo
stayed balanced lug sails, [[/underline]] give a characteristic aspect.
Some [[underline]] sloop rigged others, ketch or schooner. [[/underline]]
Some a [[underline]] small lug on bow, most have a plain [[underline]]
ordinary forestay sail others, jib & flying jib. [[/underline]] Some have
[[underline]] our ordinary schooner rig without bamboo stays.
[[/underline]] Others have [[underline]] stays on forsail [[/underline]] and
no stays on main or mizzen. All [[underline]] carry dinghy astern
[[/underline]] as on ^[[my]] "ION". An ever changing succession of
beautiful sights and light affects. Channel seems well buoyed.
[[underline]] Lighthouses are very [[/underline]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
41
[[underline]] modern. - so are buoys. This ought to be an enchanting
cruising ground for small yachts [[/underline]] Mr. Poole of Sanghai tells
me he has cruised here for 2 months in a [[underline]] small sail boat
without [[/underline]] cabin accommodation but [[underline]] was able
every day to strike a comfortable Japanese Inn [[/underline]] in one
[[strikethrough]] of [[/strikethrough]] or another of the Islands. - I should
like to try this course sometime. x
[[vertical annotation in left margin]]
x Best time July 15 to Sept. 30 Japanese Pilot Guide publications
[[/vertical annotation]]
At present the weather is not mild enough, and green and foliage is
missing. Japanese Government has [[strikethrough]] a [[/strikethrough]]
Pilot Guide [[strikethrough]] Rece ano [[/strikethrough]] published. Rise
and [[underline]] fall of tide is 23 feet. [[/underline]] Towards evening we
pass Straight of Shimoniski ^[[Shimoniseki]]
[[underline]] Feb. 26. [[/underline]] Calm milder weather pleasant on
deck. Ship very steady
This ship even in Pacific had hardly any vibration. This is [[underline]]
Yellow Sea [[/underline]] but it is greenish blueish here. Pass
[[underline]] Quelpaert Island, [[/underline]] which belonging to
x For cruising see next pages.
[[/vertical annotation]]
42
[[underline]] Korea [[/underline]] is now under Japan
[[underline]] Feb 27. [[/underline]] To day we are to arrive at [[underline]]
Shanghai. [[/underline]] At 8:00 AM. Sea still green. At [[overwritten]]
10:00 [[/overwritten]] 9:00 A.M. yellowish muddy water everywhere. At
11:00 AM [[underline]] excellent steam pilot boat. [[/underline]] Chinese
pilot comes aboard. I paid $63.00 more for additional passage to Hong
Kong. Many small fishing boats carrying a [[strikethrough]] plain
[[/strikethrough]] ^[[stayed]] lugsail on main mast (aft) and a small lugsail
on small foremast
[[strikethrough]] [[image of fishing boat]] [[/strikethrough]]
[[image: drawing of ship with 2 sails as described above]]
Some of them carry 3 such sails Mr. [[underline]] Herbert Armstrong
Poole c/o Standard Oil Co [[/underline]] Shanghai former [[underline]]
President of Sanghai Yacht Club [[/underline]] tells me he has done
some cruising in [[underline]] small sail Yacht in Japan Inland Sea
[[/underline]] and says
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
43
it is delightful and there is [[underline]] every possibility of reaching each
night some Japanese Inn on some Island or another [[/underline]] where
one can get a hot bath. There is an [[underline]] active Yacht Club at
Kobe [[/underline]] Best time for cruising is from July 15 to September
30.
[[strikethrough]] I n [[/strikethrough]] Increasing number of sail-boats.
All [[underline]] have "eyes" on the bow, [[/underline]] and the bow split
or square and the poop considerable higher. Masts instead of all raking
aft or forward rake in different directions.
[[image: diagram of boat with 3 masts in different directions]]
The topsides are rather straight or have tumble-home at the bulwark,
this fits in well with their leeboards. These leeboards and general lines
and appearance of the boat, together with the fact that they are either
unpainted or gaily painted [[underline]] reminds me of [[strikethrough]]
du [[/strikethrough]] Dutch leeboard boats [[/underline]]
44
Did the Chinese copy the design from the [[underline]] Dutch
[[/underline]] or did the latter get their inspiration from the [[underline]]
Chinese? [[/underline]] Water is [[underline]] becoming muddier than
ever [[/underline]] low lying shores made by flat islands and the channel
which runs between seems like a wide muddy River, hence many
people [[underline]] think Sanghai [[/underline]] is on the Yang-Tse River
while it is situated in the Bay.
[[vertical annotation in left margin]] This is Whang-Poo Bay. [[/vertical
annotation]]
Very busy water way. [[underline]] Japanese Steamers [[/underline]]
[[strikethrough]] seem [[/strkethrough]] [[underline]] freighters,
[[/underline]] seem to predominate some steamers fly [[underline]]
Chinese flag. Steamers flying flags of every nation [[/underline]]
Our boat is the largest to enter this harbor. [[underline]] Endless
succession of Chinese Sail boats [[/underline]] of every description, and
of every size. [[underline]] Some almost square fore and aft [[/underline]]
and of which the hull reminds of the shape of a punt, easy to build and
easy to apply
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
45
leeboards on the sides while the easily slanting fore and aft lifts the boat
easily in a pitching sea. Wood [[strikethrough]] sea [[/strikethrough]]
seems teak even in the humbler boats.
[[image: diagram of hull of boat]]
Some hulls seem unpainted unvarnished, others painted black others
have green & red colors with yellow thrown in the combination. Anchors
seem crude and are of the 4 hook grappling iron type.
[[strikethrough]] [[image: diagram of sail rigging]]
The [[underline]] bamboo stays keep the sails very flat [[/underline]] and
the bridled sheets with a rope form each stay, [[strikethrough]] keep
[[/strikethrough]] add to the flatness of the sails, which stay much flatter
than our sails.
[[image: diagram of sail rigging]]
There [[underline]] bridle [[/underline]] ropes are rather thin, and set in
about the same ways as a
46
[[underline]] "vang" on the peak of a gaff would [[strikethrough]] pref
[[/strikethrough]] prevent the sail from spilling its wind over the gaff.
[[/underline]] Big factories - cotton mills? - and many tall smoking
chimneys gave the land an unexpected [[strikethrough]] Chine
[[/strikethrough]] Western Industrial appearance. This with the muddy
water, cloudy skies, many steamers, [[underline]] reminds one of the
approaches of Liverpool, or New Jersey. [[/underline]] Impression gains
strength when nearing the multitude of substantial business buildings
and smoky [[strikethrough]] sky of [[/strikethrough]] atmosphere of
[[underline]] Shanghai [[/underline]]
Current is strong and on account of its size our ship has to swing around
very cautiously to its long wharf.
A [[underline]] multitude of Chinese [[/underline]] of every description
waiting at the wharf. Three or four
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
47
tall [[strikethrough]] Sikhs [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] beared Sikhs
with red Turbans [[/underline]] and a stick in their hand do
[[strikethrough]] the [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] police duty.
[[/underline]] Delapidated [[underline]] Ricksaws and barefooted
Chinese, some on primitive straw sandals [[/underline]] soliciting trade.
[[underline]] No medical inspection; [[/underline]] very easy custom
inspection by good natured young Chinaman in uniform. Then I jump in
a Ricksaw, amongst a crowd of hustling, [[strikethrough]] pulling,
[[/stirkethrough]] chinese, pulling or pushing carts, [[strikethrough]] or
[[/strikethrough]] funny wheelbarrows, with a large wheel in the center.
[[underline]] Dark blue cotton [[/underline]] is predominating color.
[[underline]] Better class of Chinese, have long tabbard [[/underline]] and
wear a little [[underline]] hemispheric skull cap. [[/underline]] Everything
looks, [[underline]] muddy, dirty and squalid [[/underline]] until after a few
blocks we emerge in the "Bund" Quarter near the [[underline]] Astor
Hotel [[/underline]] I had wired from Kobe to reserve rooms.
48
Big new square room and large tiled bathroom attached. Top floor and
quiet, overlooks the gray tiled roofs of all the buildings clustering closely
nearby. Good electric light [[underline]] room scrupulously clean.
[[/underline]]
There is an open [[strikethrough]] fire [[/strikethrough]] coal fire but not
lit. There is a [[underline]] little portable electric heater [[/underline]]
which can be moved from bath room to sleeping room. They Charge me
16 Dollars Mex = over 8½ Dollars American for room alone no meals.
Outside there is a [[underline]] smiling Chinese [[strikethrough]] servant
[[/strikethrough]] waiter [[/underline]] with his assistants always near.
The hotel is an opulently equipped large place. Large dining room,
bookstall etc as in American Hotels.
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
49
Very large dining room and ^[[large]] dancing floor in the center
^[[underline]] [[3 couples dancing lugubriously]] [[/underline]] and unfortunately - again that [[underline]] horrid American Jazz Music.
[[/underline]] Meal irreproachable, but [[underline]] beer and wine steep
prices, [[/underline]] higher than in U.S before Volstead Act. Chinese
brewed beer very good. Jostling hurring crowd in streets outside over
the iron bridge crossing the [[strikethrough]] creek [[/strikethrough]]
muddy creek thru which enters and leaves a continuous stream of
boats, big and small, [[underline]] manned each by Chinese family
[[/underline]] complete.
Pole masts are lowered (the larger are stepped in a [[underline]]
tabernacle [[/underline]] of very simple construction. See further and
also my photographs. [[underline]] Masts as in Japan are raised by
hoisting [[/underline]] one mast [[underline]] by means of the halyard of
the other [[/underline]] until
50
mast is high enough so that forestay, framed over the [[underline]] winch
finishes the job [[/underline]] In smaller boats [[underline]] 2 hinged
[[/underline]] poles, attached on each side make a [[image: upside down
V]] shaped derrick. which can be stayed or lowered and from which a fall
[[underline]] and block lifts the mast high enough [[/underline]] until the
forestay can lift it further
The [[underline]] husky hardy Chinese women, all wear trousers,
[[/underline]] do small work on the boat. Seem muscular, quick and
determined and work at least as much as the men, while attending to
the [[underline]] red cheeked round eyed flat faced babies [[/underline]]
and youngsters who [[underline]] crawl on deck unconcerned
[[/underline]] on what is going on. Boats collide and rub each other
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
51
and sometimes everything seems pandemonium and there is loud
yelling and running back and forward and everything straightens itself
out and goes on again. Some of these boats [[strikethrough]] under
[[/strikethrough]] beyond the bridge house a whole family yet are not
over 30 ft x 10 feet beam. Some have [[underline]] vaulted mat roof
[[/underline]] shelters, other have tarred vaulted hooped cover. Others
have nothing and the bedding is visible just [[strikethrough]] a fo
[[/strikethrough]] one or 2 feet below the flat deck planking which is
removable. [[underline]] Cooking [[/underline]] and boiling goes on
merrily on [[underline]] little wood or charcoal fires. [[/underline]] Chats
are exchanged from one boat to another and everything goes on busily
and goodLeo Baekeland Diary Volume 39, 1925
52
naturedly. I am told that [[underline]] many of these people are born and
live their whole lives on such boats. [[/underline]] The Chinese on these
boats and [[strikethrough]] on the [[/strikethrough]] along the waterside,
look heavy and queer and savage and [[underline]] very dirty and
squalid. [[/underline]] Bishop tells me they [[underline]] are of a different
race than the Chinese on land, [[/underline]] and until the Revolution
were [[strikethrough]] not [[/strikethrough]] not allowed to pass
[[strikethrough]] or compete for [[/strikethrough]] the examinations which
enabled all other Chinese to compete for Government positions. Bishop
tells me that they are the [[underline]] remnants of the original races
which [[/underline]] populated China and which afterwards got replaced
or hybrided with Mongolians or Manchus.
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
53
The better trained Chinese seem to make good waiters. It feels cold and
chilly altho' not freezing. Went to bed at 9 P.M. pretty well tired
[[underline]] Feb 28. [[/underline]] Up early. Sunny sky, but chill wind
blowing
Well rested. Drove ^[[in]] [[underline]] Ricksa to Cable office.
[[/underline]] Have received [[underline]] cable from George that all is
well [[/underline]] and no important news and that sales are satisfactory.
Have cabled (over $1.00 Am, a word) that am leaving for Hong-King
today giving my address there c/o [[underline]] Am. Consul. [[/underline]]
and that letters should be addressed [[underline]] Singapore Am.
Consul. [[/underline]] Mailed 2 letters to Celine [[underline]] Read in the
paper that some unpaid soldiers have ransomed [[/underline]] a town a
few miles distant and as inhabitants [[underline]] refused pay ransom
[[/underline]] they
54
looted the whole place. [[underline]] R.R connections with Pekin
[/underline]] are again partly in operation but service ^[[service]]
[[underline]] unsatisfactory [[/underline]] Took walk in Chinese Quarter
near by. [[strikethrough]] Indescr [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] Almost
impossible to describe [[/underline]] Noisy crowded, small crowded
streets, jostling Chinese men women and children. All looks [[underline]]
very dirty and squalid [[/underline]] All eating, jabbering, and what
[[underline]] incredible food? [[/underline]] Pickled, dried, smoked in
every fashion [[underline]] "Bêche de mer" [[/underline]] looks
impossible. In the midst of it all a [[strikethrough]] padded
[[/strikethrough]] good natured jabbering, buying, selling, eating crowd.
Some wear [[underline]] sandals, [[/underline]] other [[strikethrough]] silk
[[/strikethrough]] black [[underline]] silk slippers, ^[[many]] others barefooted altho' it is cold. Children [[/underline]] look red cheeked
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
55
well fed, happy and [[underline]] very dirty. [[/underline]] Our slums in
New York seem less dirty in comparison.
Incredible yet very ingenious instruments. I saw a very clever simple
hand drill, which functioned by a heavy [[strikethrough]] ring
[[/strikethrough]] revolving ring over the shaft which by an up and
downward stroke of a cross stick, maneuvered a [[underline]] drill
[[/underline]] in a very efficient way. Then [[underline]] old "roman"
[[/underline]] scales made of a stick and suspension, a plain sliding rope
on which hung a weight, everything [[strikethrough]] astound
[[/strikethrough]] extraordinarily simple and clever, and built with the very
simplest
[[image: diagram of the scale]]
56
contrivances. [[underline]] Bamboo is used everywhere [[/underline]] and
for every purpose. Masts and guards on their boats are made of it.
[[strikethrough]] If they use [[/strikethrough]] They use also [[underline]]
square sprit-sails with a bamboo mast and a bamboo sprit [[/underline]]
and the clew and leach had a bridled sheet so as to keep sail flat;
[[underline]] when wind blows hard the bamboo mast curves until it
seems it would snap. [[/underline]] It has no stays nor shrouds and
simply bends and spills the wind out of the sails.
What a [[underline]] contrast is the "Bund" [[/underline]] along the water,
with its well paved, smooth streets, electric trams, motor cars and
[[underline]] motor [[/underline]] busses, fine opulent substantial
buildings, banks
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
57
business office-buildings and modern stores. If it were not for the junks
in the river and the hustling jostling crowds of Chinese of every
description, one would think oneself in a busy prosperous well built
European Business City. The is a [[underline]] Rowing Club [[/underline]]
on the shore of the muddy creek near the hotel, and near its shore a
succession of motor cruising boats, houseboats, some with motors
others with sails. They replace here the [[underline]] Dahabeeah
[[/underline]] of the Nile. Some look like [[strikethrough]] our mot
[[/strikethrough]] somewhat like our motor house boats.
[[strikethrough]] Dahubeeah Dao [[/strikethrough]]Dahabeeah [[/vertical
annotation]]
The crew is entirely Chinese a [[underline]] hard working, scrubbing lot,
[[/underline]] some in pig-tails, others without. Blue Chinese overalls
^[[overalls]] and slippers and any kind
58
of hat or golf cap or bare-headed. They all carry on deck, several very
straight bamboo poles most of them provided with a boat hook. Each
has at least one long sweep with which they are able to skull the boat
either from the stern, sometimes near the bow, thus providing auxiliary
power without the need of an engine. All boats on the river, from the
smallest to the largest are thus sculled by means of enormous sweeps,
somewhat similarly to the way the Japanese handle their boats. The
blade of the sweep or oar is rather broad and is [[underline]] lashed
[[/underline]] to the handle similarly to the way adopted by the Japanese.
This
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
59
lashing brings about a [[underline]] curved handle, [[/underline]] and this
curved handle naturally puts the blade of the oar in the desired position
for its sculling effect when pulled laterally or vertically
The [[strikethrough]] pan [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] Japanese
[[/underline]] lash their oar as follows:
[[image: diagram of the oar and handle with annotation "one single
lashing"]]
The Chinese in Shanghai have a 3 piece oar with [[underline]] 2
[[/underline]] lashings this producing a stronger curve thus producing a
stronger bend.
[[image: diagram of oar with two lashings with sections annotated "a,"
"b," "c," and "rope"]]
At a a rope is fastened vertically on the rail so that in pulling this rope
the oar naturally in lifting and side swinging exerts its sculling effect
because at [[underline]] b. [[/underline]]
60
there is a little [[?exaration]] which pivots on an iron round head little pin
which sticks out on starboard or on port of the rail
If the sweep is manned by 2 men one pulls the rope below [[underline]]
a [[/underline]] and the other pulls sideways at [[underline]] C.
[[/underline]] At the latter place there is a felt pad which covers the wood
and covers his hand so as to protect it against the cold. Sometimes
sweeps are worked on both sides of the bow and both quarters of the
stern, [[strikethrough]] then [[/strikethrough]] in positions a b c and d.
[[image: diagram of boat and oars with with annotations "a", "b", "c", "d"]]
This steady motion of the sweeps on each river boat is very
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
61
characteristic. For [[strikethrough]] small [[/strikethrough]] row-boats,
there is also another way of using oars. The man stands at x and
pushes the handles of the oars out [[underline]] towards the bow and
crossed. [[/underline]]
[[image: diagram of boat with two oars and annotated with an "x"]]
The oars are made of two poles on which are lashed or otherwise
fastened elongated padles. There are no oar locks; but the handles of
the oar locks are [[underline]] tied [[/underline]] to the single wooden oar
pins or wooden pegs stuck in the rail upright so that the oar cannot be
lost
[[image: diagram of oar mechanism with sections annotated "pin",
"rope", and "oar handle"]]
this seems a very simple and practical device for an dinghy
(See my photos)
62
All masts of sail yacht, house boats, or merchant junks or other boats
are usually stepped in a [[underline]] "tabernacle", [[/underline]] making it
easy to lower them when going under a bridge. Their system is
[[underline]] somewhat simpler than the one I adopted on the Ion.
[[/underline]] Instead of oscillating the mast between 2 heavy oak
planks, they simply carry a stub of a mast stepped to the keelson and
protruding only 2 or 3 feet, rarely 4 feet high; altho' [[underline]] the mast
[[/underline]] is rather tall, [[underline]] sometimes longer than the overall
length [[/underline]] of the boat. This arrangement reminds one of the
way topmasts are stepped on some boats. If 2 or three masts are
available and
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
63
[[image: diagram of mast arrangement with sections
labeled: "mast", "deck", "stub", "keelson", "Bolt which acts as
[[underline]] pivot [[/underline]], and "steelband fastened on mast and
allows tilting without undoing this band when lowering the mast
lower band which holds the foot of the mast. Wedges can be driven
below]]
if one of the masts had to be lowered or erected one of the halyards of
the other masts is made to lift the lowering mast in position until the
foreguy can be worked thru' the winch. In other cases the boat carries
simply two strong poles towards the bow which are fastened and hinged
on each side
64
of the bow rail and can be raised to a A inverted V shaped support,
which can be stayed for and aft and carries on its apex a block, which
leads a rope to the winch, and then lifts the mast high enough until the
winch can pull the forestay.
[[drawing of boat with annotation of 'mast']]
[[drawing of V shaped support with annotation: These rings are for the
guys.]]
[[drawing with annotation: method of fastening the shears]]
[[drawing with annotations: steel sockets for the 2 poles of the shears;
This is articulated on the rails.]]
[[drawing of boat with annotations: X shears + block for hoisting mast;
rope]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
65
The Chinese sailors and rustabouts [[underline]] sing out [[\underline]]
and have their chantings just as the singing arabs on the Nile.
Some of the boats only manned by a stickset woman while her baby
was peeping out from the desk; all this unconcerned amongst the many
bumping boats entering the creek pell-mell carried by the current, or
bumping against overloaded top heavy other boats.
The leeboards on the boats are not gracefully shaped as in Holland but
are [[underline]] almost like planks [[\underline]] of which one end is only
slightly narrower than the other.
[[drawing of leeboard and of boat]]
Leeboards seem to be made of teak
66
The bamboo-stayed lug-sails are kept close to the mast either by strips
of bamboo spreading out from the bamboo stays
[[image: diagram of bamboo stay with annotations: "mast", "bamboo
stay", and "strip of bamboo"]]
[[underline]] Sometimes a rope is used instead of the strip of bamboo.
[[/underline]]
On some other sails I saw an ingenious form of mast-hoop made by
weaving a few strips of bamboo into a grommet [[underline]] Bamboo
strips [[/underline]] ought to make better mast hoops [[underline]] than
ash or oak. [[/underline]]
I tried to locate the [[underline]] Yacht Club. [[/underline]] Saw several
Yachts moored on other side of the River and a few along the Park.
Nobody seemed
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
67
to know where [[underline]] Yacht Club [[/underline]] is. In fact very few
people could understand anything but Chinese or Pigeon English which
is very difficult to speak. At hotel was accosted by a man who gave his
card as [[underline]] Charles Goudstikker [[/underline]] and is a
correspondent of "Le Journal" of Paris. He said he came from Indochina, Cambodye, Java and Sumatra. [[strikethrough]] Spoke
[[/strikethrough]] Claimed to be a Belgian and spoke dutch. I suppose he
was a dutch-Belgian-Frenchman and knew everything and everybody;at least claimed so, and spoke no English. A rather [[underline]]
bumptious, babbling illbred person, [[/underline]] kicking about
everything. Claimed to be [[underline]] special correspondent
[[/underline]] sent out to China to report on the way but seemed to have
found
68
it too uncomfortable and let his [[underline]] imagination do the rest;
[[/underline]] at the [[underline]] Astor Hotel. [[/underline]] He tells me I
should go from [[underline]] Hong Kong to Hai-Fon thence Hanoi then to
Saigon, [[/underline]] then Pnom Penh then to Kep; thence to Bangkok
then R.R to Penam, then by Steamer to Sumatra, then motor to Fort De
Cock; then Padang then Steamer to [[strikethrough]] Sarabaya
[[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] Soerabaya; [[/underline]] then overland to
Bataira; thence to Singapore then to Colombo or Calcutta etc.
Steamer left at 3 P.M. [[underline]] Begging Chinamen, [[/underline]]
young and old: A dwarf making sommersaults before me when I
approached gangplank. A young [[underline]] Chinese Boy about 8
years old [[/underline]] making an extraordinary performance in
acrobatics; in the most natural
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
69
[[strikethrough]] whay [[/strikethrough]] ^[[way]] on wharf just below the
ship. Then a Chinese band of musicians: trombone, clarinet, saxophone
etc. dressed in military caps and the most loud bright carmine silk tunics,
blowing lustily in their instruments ^[[parodies of]] [[underline]]
"Tipperary"! [[/underline]] and similar songs; while our own Filipino band
strikes up "Aloha".
The tide is coming in and for hours till after dark an unbroken
succession of every kind of Chinese sailboats. (See photos) All sails set,
light winds hundreds and hundreds; perhaps thousand of them in an
[[underline]] unbroken procession, [[/underline]] all carrying something or
another. Have never seen [[underline]] so many sailboats in such a short
time. [[/underline]] With their [[strikethrough]] lu [[/strikethrough]] slatted
sails, some of them
70
well [[underline]] punched with holes,[[/underline]] then multicolored hulls
and their glaring "eyes", and the setting sun; it was a very characteristic
picture.
Cinema pictures again tonight ^[[aboard the Steamer]]. Most passengers
are gone. Again back to my quiet and comfortable cabin. Restful night.
March 1, 1925 (Sunday) Bright and sunny. Light winds, water is
[[underline]] no longer so very muddy is greenish [[/underline]] now.
Some rocky Islands on our starboard. Temperature cool but pleasant.
No motion on ship nor any vibration. [[underline]] Water becoming more
blueish [[/underline]] with some patches of greenish. - Shoals - Many
fishing ships 2 or 3 lug-sails - bamboo stayed and
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
71
[[strikethrough]] guiley [[/strikethrough]] gaily [[strikethrough]] colo
[[/strikethrough]] painted and the rowing boats out trawling or getting in
the nets. Markers with red flags planted here and there. We are too far
out to see any shore. I notice that the larger boats have a high forecastle and still higher poop deck and the bulwark or gunwale drops in
the middle at the waist. Perhaps to facilitate fishing operations.
[[image: drawing of boat,shaped as described in preceding paragraph,
three masts with square sails, an "eye" drawn on the bow]]
Sails are tanned red and in better repair than some of those we saw
yesterday.
Cinema tonight o/.b. the ship
March 2. Passing thru [[underline]] Straights of Formosa. [[/underline]]
[[strikethrough]] Bew [[/strikethrough]]
Afternoon, Tea in the navigation room with Captain Wallis,
72
Very well equipped. [[underline]] Sperry Gyro-Compass and Gyro
automatic steering. [[/underline]] The course once being set the rudder
works automatically by means of electric power operated by [[underline]]
Gyro compass. [[/underline]] There is a [[underline]] magnetic compass
nearby. [[/underline]] A recording graphic shows the course of the ship,
day by day - automatic. A radio bearing finder enables to locate position
by radio signals.
A [[underline]] fire detecting device announces immediately any undue
increase of temperature in any of the staterooms. [[/underline]]
There is also a device which [[strikethrough]] takes [[/strikethrough]]
[[underline]] blows samples of the air contained in any of the
Compartments in the hold or other not readily accessible places.
[[/underline]]
A [[strikethrough]] certain [[/strikethrough]]Swedish Civil Engineer Mr.
Koehler of Hong Kong sells [[underline]] automatic lighted buoys etc.
[[/underline]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
73
He tells me [[underline]] piracy is still going on in these seas,
[[/underline]] and that it happens that ^[[local]] passenger steamers are
suddenly [[underline]] overwhelmed with pirates who entered as
passengers. [[/underline]] Some of the steamers now keep the
[[underline]] Chinese [[strikethrough]] in cages pas [[/strikethrough]]
steerage passengers in caged compartments and carry armed guards.
[[/underline]]
[[underline]] March 3. [[/underline]] Up early. We are in very picturesque
waters. [[underline]] The water is blue again [[/underline]] and
everywhere there are pointed hills slightly greenish but bereft of trees.
[[underline]] "Junks" [[/underline]] and smaller fishing boats everywhere.
The shape of their sails is different from ^[[those in]] Sanghai. A beautiful
land locked harbor with picturesque hills around everywhere.
[[underline]] Second to Rio de Janeiro [[/underline]] it is the loveliest
harbor I have seen. The hulls of the Junks
74
are [[underline]] different [[/underline]] from those I saw in [[underline]]
Shanghai. [[/underline]] Some have narrower beam and pointed bows
and sail close to the wind. I see no leeboards. Numerous sails,
[[underline]] some of woven matting others red tanned duck,
[[/underline]] others white duck.
[[image: drawing of sail]]
Some of the sails show considerable reach in the lead on account of
[[strikethrough]] larger s [[/strikethrough]] longer stays in the middle.
(See book & photos with sketches of [[underline]] Chinese sailboats
[[/underline]] which I bought from [[underline]] Kelly & [[strikethrough]]
Wash [[/strikethrough]] Walsh [[/underline]] at [[strikethrough]] Hong
Kong store [[/strikethrough]] their [[underline]] Hong [[/underline]] Kong
[[strikethrough]] store [[/strikethrough]] book store. The upper
[[strikethrough]] gaff [[/strikethrough]] ^[[yard]] of the sails is hoisted with
one halyard over one block for small boats or over a block & fall for the
larger.
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
75
The strip of bamboo which makes the [[strikethrough]] gr
[[/strikethrough]] upper yard hug the mast. is not made close but extends
from one end of the [[strikethrough]] ya [[/strikethrough]] upper yard to
the other, thus allowing the yard free leeway to shift and adjust itself.
There is ^[[about]] the same looseness ^[[looseness]] about the lower
stays of the sail, thus ensuring easy sliding yet keeping the sail close
enough to the mast, [[strikethrough]] to [[/strikethrough]] so as to prevent
bulging of the sail. The sails keep unusually flat thru this contrivance.
[[underline]] I have never anywhere seen so many sails moving back
and forward at the same time. [[/underline]] As our ship swings to its
business-like pier, numerous small narrow sailboats about 30' x 8'
surround us, dowse their sail
76
and ^[[scull]] scull with their sweep, usually a woman attending to this.
Near the bow ^[[of the boat]] there is a large pot boiling with charcoal fire
or wood fire below. How the whole thing does not catch fire is the
[[^miracle]] miracle of it. Below the flat deck under a [[hattel?]], the family
seems to sleep. Everything seems to go on automatically. One boat
seems to be manned only by [[underline]] a woman and a girl
[[/underline]] of about 10 or 12 years, and who ^[[rushes]] rushes from
one side of the boat to the other, either to [[strikethrough]] l
[[/strikethrough]] man the [[strikethrough]] sweep [[/strikethrough]] oar or
sweep, or the tiller or to ward the boat from too [[strikethrough]] and
[[/strikethrough]] jarring contact with our steamer. She is bare-footed and
carries a bag or bundle fastened on her
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
77
back. The bag [[strikethrough]] from [[/strikethrough]], on closer
inspection, proves to contain [[underline]] a baby [[/underline]] which
peeps out the upper opening and looks as unconcerned as the young
girl or mother that ^[[carries]] carries it as if it were simply a part of her
outfit.
[[strikethrough]] Th [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] Hong-Kong
[[/underline]] presents as pretty sight spread out below and on terraces
of the steep hill that backs it. All modern-looking: white buildings, very
European in appearance and giving an air of great prosperity. We land
at [[underline]] Kowloon, which is opposite. No customs inspection, no
medical inspection, just walk out without any formality. [[/underline]]
[[strikethrough]] There [[/strikethrough]] They are very severe on the
importation of fire-arms without a permit [[underline]] specially on the
part of Chinese [[/underline]] and heavy fines and imprisonment are the
punishment.
78
Only [[underline]] liquors pay heavy duties, everything else comes in
free. [[/underline]] The boatmen use bamboo for everything.
[[image: drawing of bamboo pole with hook with annotations: "plug",
"steel hook"]]
It makes excellent [[underline]] boat-hook-poles, [[/underline]] on which
they fasten a ringed hook as per sketch, by slipping it over the extremity
of the bamboo then wedging a plug inside which expands the diameter.
By hooking these bamboo poles [[underline]] on the rail of the vessel
they climb aboard along these bamboo poles or by holding the pole with
their [[/underline]] arms and climbing the sides of the ship with their feet.
All this is done in a twinkling and shows how easy it is for
[[strikethrough]] pirates [[/strikethrough]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
79
[[left margin]] Hong-Kong [[/left margin]]
[[underline]] Chinese pirates [[/underline]] to board a ship [[underline]]
however high its sides may be: [[/underline]]
Kowloon is quite a busy place, yelling and [[strikethrough]] quar
[[/strikethrough]] jabbering Chinese-coolies everywhere; all busy
working, pulling lifting or carrying something or another. A small
crowded ferryboat brings us to [[underline]] Hong Kong [[/underline]] and
suddenly we are in a [[underline]] well paved, wide streeted city,
[[/underline]] with opulent [[strikethrough]] hotels [[/strikethrough]]
business buildings, stores and hotels. One or two blocks away is
[[underline]] Hong Kong Hotel, known for its steep prices. [[/underline]] I
got a room with bath for 17$ Mex or about 9-10 Doll. American.
[[strikethrough]] Hotel [[/strikethrough]] Rooms are difficult to obtain.
There is another hotel nearby smaller. [[underline]] King Edward Hotel
[[/underline]] where Newton went and which is said to be as good
80
and cheaper altho not so prententious as the enormous hotel is.
The [[underline]] American Dollar = $1.77 [[/underline]] Mex. A man
called [[underline]] Hagedorn [[/underline]] who was on the ship, looks
like a whitebeared Chinese, with pale eyes, talks like a Yank, lives in
[[underline]] Montclair [[/underline]] and has business in [[underline]]
Manilla [[/underline]] and his wife is [[underline]] Philipino Spanish
perhaps Jewish [[/underline]] and very small. His father was [[underline]]
German. [[/underline]] This is the typical [[underline]] Eurasian.
[[/underline]]
March 4. [[underline]] I am still wearing my winter suit [[/underline]] but
summer underwear. Room yesterday was slightly cool. Today it feels
pleasant. They tell me the warm [[underline]] weather will soon begin.
[[/underline]]
At [[underline]] Messageries Maritimes [[/underline]] they tell me first
steamer to [[underline]] Saigon [[/underline]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
81
leaves on March 15. SS. Ankor. ^[[Angkor]]
Drove to [[underline]] Yacht Club. [[/underline]] Excellent anchorage only
a [[strikethrough]] fe [[/strikethrough]] very few sail yachts of racing type.
Nobody in except some Chinese Servants. Went to Yacht Yard of
[[underline]] King: a Chinese boat ^[[and yacht]] builder. [[/underline]] A
[[underline]] Chinese lighter-junk [[/underline]] was under construction.
Careful work. Hull made of Chinese Fir; ditto the masts. Will be rigged
with regular [[underline]] bamboo stayed sail [[/underline]] and is being
provided [[underline]] with a motor. Rudder has losange-holes, "because
it can be turned easier", [[/underline]] the Chinese foreman tells me.
Most of engines in the yard are British, 2 are American; all old models.
Yacht hulls and better boats also their [[underline]] sampans
[[/underline]] are made of teak imported from
^[[?]] sampan it is strong but heavy.
82
I obtained a mass of pamphlets from the [[underline]] Holland Line
[[/underline]] which will [[underline]] help me for Java etc. Men and
women [[/underline]] used for [[strikethrough]] the most [[/strikethrough]]
carrying [[underline]] everything from a piano to a few bundles
[[/underline]] of kindling wood. In every instance the carrying is done by
means of a bamboo pole slung over the shoulder. A heavy stone for
instance or a stone slab, 4 pair of men with bamboo poles carried by
each pair and a rope slung below is the carrying method. The elasticity
of the bamboo pole [[strikethrough]] mater [[/strikethrough]] compels
them to [[underline]] walk short tripping steps [[/underline]] as if they
were dancing. Men and women carry big peaked round straw hats, in
[[underline]] woven straw or bamboo [[/underline]]
[[image: drawing of hat with arrow from the word hats]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
83
others have only a big straw rim with a piece of black muslin hanging
around the rim, as a kind of sun protecting curtain. while the top of their
hairy head protrudes thru the center hole of the hat.
[[left margin]] Cheap Labor [[/left margin]]
[[underline]] Labor must be very cheap and abundant [[/underline]] here:
These [[strikethrough]] sp [[/strikethrough]] peak hatted women trip
along with two small baskets of porphyry stone, [[strikethrough]] whi
[[/strikethrough]] balanced on a bamboo pole. The stone is broken by
hand and carried forth and back about 500 feet, sometimes half a mile.
[[underline]] instead of carting. Carts are pulled by men [[/underline]]
sometimes 4 pushing 6 or 8 pulling on ropes. Yet men and women
[[underline]] all seem cheerful [[/underline]] and contented [[underline]]
and well fed. Ricksaws [[/underline]] are in much better condition than in
Sanghai, and provided with shiny brass ornaments; their
84
[[left margin]] Carry of Bamboo sedans [[/left margin]]
wheels are smaller than in Japan. A much used method of [[underline]]
conveyance [[/underline]] are the square [[underline]] bamboo sedanchairs [[/underline]] fastens in between 2 poles about 20-25 feet long
and carried by 2 men. Swinging sensation at first is rather unusual, cost
is very small. Men are strong and robust, many of these Sedan carriers
have extraordinarily [[strikethrough]] ab [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]]
abnormally developed muscles on their calves. [[/underline]] Also strong
chests, specially needed for [[strikethrough]] the [[/strikethrough]] their
many climbing streets.
Streets unusually well paved and cleanly kept. [[underline]] This is a
Chinatown with large well [[strikethrough]] paved [[/strikethrough]]
asphalted or cemented streets [[/underline]] - something [[underline]]
quite un-Chinese. [[/underline]] Endless shops.
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
85
The usual cinema theatres Chaplin, Harold Lloyd, Mary Pickford and the
usual Hollywood star list. Chinese are very fond of it. Also British
Tommies in Uniform and sailors from British ships. [[underline]] At hotel
every mixture of [[/underline]] Britishers, also many Eurasians less
Chinese. [[strikethrough]] Sikhs [[/strikethrough]] Bearded tall Sikhs;
erect and self-conscious everywhere; for policy-duty. A few [[underline]]
hindustanese in passage. [[/underline]] British element undoubtedly
dominates; but there is a sprinkling of Americans, Dutch, French and
few Germans.
Went up the hill on a very steep cable-road, to the [[underline]] Peak
Hotel. [[/underline]] Extraordinarily pretty view over landscape and town
and all the little
86
toy ships below in the bay. Lunch at hotel, fine views. Went with
[[underline]] Hammond the port-master of S.S. [[/underline]] "Taft". Then
after lunch got in Sedan chairs to the top. The SS. [[underline]] Pres.
Taft [[/underline]] leaves at 5 P.M for [[underline]] Manilla [[/underline]]
Made round trip of city in top of [[underline]] Trolley car. [[/underline]]
City well kept good roads [[underline]] sanitary houses. [[/underline]]
General appearance of [[underline]] Hong Kong reminds me much of
Rio de Janeiro. [[/underline]] The latter City however is prettier and more
picturesque and a more imposing city.
No cables at the U.S Consulate. Tried in vain to buy a ship model of a
Junk. Only poorly made silver models.
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
87
British Tommies going to the ball game, wear only [[strikethrough]]
B.V.D's [[/strikethrough]] white B.V.D's. 6" above knees, below their
[[strikethrough]] tunic [[/strikethrough]] uniform tunic. No wonder much
indigo consumed in China. - [[strikethrough]] all [[/strikethrough]]
[[underline]] mostly all clothes are blue or black cotton. [[/underline]]
Streets in [[underline]] Hong Kong [[/underline]] wide, well cemented on
both sides row of houses 3 or 4 stores and [[underline]] arcades as in
Italy or [[strikethrough]] Franc [[/strikethrough]] Southern France.
[[/underline]]
Food and meat stalls, varnished chicken, ditto ducks. or funny little
sausages on a stick; "vulcanized" black livers, every kind of dried &
salted fish, dried shark fins, ^[[dried shrimps]] dried squids, dried
octopus, all mummified looking. Chicken or ducks; bones removed and
stretched flat and dried and dipped in fat; any variety of pickled things,
one look of it enough to drive away all appetite. Childrens heads
shaven closely; except [[underline]] one square patch above forehead
[[/underline]]
88
[[underline]] Coolies have head shaven. [[/underline]] Cleverly woven
bamboo devices for carrying anything on a pole ditto baskets for fowl;
also cylindrical baskets each containing a [[underline]] squealing pig.
[[/underline]]
Sing-song step of carriers in rythm with the swing of the pole.
[[underline]] Horses [[/underline]] or other animals [[underline]] for
carting almost totally absent. [[/underline]] Coolie carriers so cheap. The
[[underline]] Island [[/underline]] of Hong Kong is rather bare; only in a
few places are there any scrubby small pines. Along the water I notice a
few Coconut Palms, also a few bananas. Now and then one sees a
[[underline]] Royal Palm, [[/underline]] - all vegetation seems scraggy,
probably on account of rocky bottom. In some places there are porphyry
quarries. Stone is of poor quality. [[strikethrough]] The steep cable road
[[/strikethrough]] A perfect motor road circles around the fringes of the
Island, passing up and down
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
89
in ^[[a]] winding succession of hills and lovely sights of the blue water
below. Except for the many Villas it reminds of the Riviera. Climate also
reminds of winter climate of Riviera. [[strikethrough]] Hot
[[/strikethrough]] Very hot weather and rainy season will begin in a few
weeks. Junks everywhere in the back-ground. Aberdeen, a picturesque
port with numerous fishing fleet. Repulse Bay Hotel beautifully situated;
mediocre meal and [[strikethrough]] very [[/strikethrough]] rather dead.
Whole trip took about 2½ hrs including time for tiffin. Cost of trip 8 Dol
Mex.
Bought tickets for [[underline]] Macao [[/underline]] and return
7 Dol. Mex.
17 " " for [[underline]] Canton & return [[/underline]] single stateroom
Guide one day
2 Breakfasts
5 days hotel & meals
___________
90 Dol. Mex.
[[underline]] March 6. [[/underline]] Left 8 A.M steamer for Macao.
90
[[strikethrough]] A [[/strikethrough]] Cleanly kept ^[[for]] 1st class
passengers very pleasant. Cabin passenger deck [[underline]]
separated from below [[/underline]] by [[strikethrough]] grat
[[/strikethrough]] barred gratings over companion way. Engine room
[[underline]] also protected [[/underline]] by strong barred cage.
[[strikethrough]] Sh [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] Sikhs [[/underline]] with
Enfield repeating rifles and filled cartridge belt on guard, before each
barred door also, behind steel plates provided with muzzle holes. All this
as precaution against [[underline]] pirates. [[/underline]]
[[left margin]] pirates [[/left margin]] A short time ago this steamer was
attacked by Chinese pirates; passengers robbed and some killed and
wounded. This whole neighborhood is infested with [[underline]] pirates.
Captain and crew [[/underline]] of steamer [[underline]] carry ^[[belt &]]
revolvers. [[/underline]] The [[underline]] junks and other boats
[[/underline]] carry large [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] muzzle
[[/strikethrough]] antique looking cast-iron [[underline]] muzzle-loading
cannon [[/underline]] others have [[underline]] steel plates along
gunwale as a protection against bullets. [[/underline]] Last December the
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
91
[[underline]] Motor-launch of Christian College in Canton was taken by
pirates [[/underline]] on the river, towed by them and looted as well as
passengers.
Beautiful trip between numerous hilly Islands, and Junks and fishing
sampans everywhere, on a background of blue green sea.
Mr. L.A. Scotchmer; [[strikethrough]] Chief [[/strikethrough]] ^[[Manager]]
of office of Texas Company in Canton ^[[(Shameen)]], and Mr ^[[D.S.]]
Scott, Manager of their office in Hong Kong are the ^[[only]] 2 other 1st
class passengers. [[underline]] Scott [[/underline]] was formerly with
[[underline]] Curtis [[/underline]] Airplane Co and was one of the early
fliers, was a friend of [[underline]] Lawrence Sperry [[/underline]] and
conducted some of the [[underline]] Sperry [[/underline]] experiments
with the automatic directed bomb-carrying airplanes. [[underline]] Both
have lived in China for several years. Scott [[/underline]] is a Canadian
and was of [[underline]] British Naval reserves. [[/underline]]
Scott is a British Columbia man, of McGill University, served as Royal
Naval Volunteer on Sub-chasers. [[/vertical annotation]]
Full of information very interesting
92
They tell me that altho' so many [[underline]] Chinese live their whole
[[\underline]] life on their boats [[underline]] very few if any can swim.
[[\underline]] Nor if any one [[underline]] fall over-board [[\underline]] do
they try to save him [[underline]] because they believe the spirits of the
deep [[strikethrough]] will [[/strikethrough]] may pull them down with the
man. [[\underline]] Furthermore if they have saved thus the life of a
man, [[underline]] they are responsible for all what happens to him
afterwards. [[\underline]] Another man, [[underline]] Van Anden of the
Yacht Club [[\underline]] contradicts the statement and says chinese
boatman swim like fish.
[[underline]] Boats. [[\underline]] The iron pin which is ball ^[[ball]]
headed = [[drawing of pin]] and [[underline]] on which they swing their
oars is [[\underline]] placed on the starboard [[underline]] stern
[[\underline]] rail, so as to allow best [[underline]] use of right hand.
[[\underline]] This rail is naturally high enough, because the [[underline]]
stern [[\underline]] of all their boats, big or [[underline]] small is always
decidedly [[\underline]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
93
[[left margin drawing of upright bar with notches with annotation: rail]]
higher than the bow.
[[underline]] Forside oars [[\underline]] they plant [[underline]] wooden
side pins with notches [[\underline]] in the rail. The notches catch the
ropes or [[underline]] rope [[strikethrough]] gr [[/strikethrough]] grommet
which is slung over the oar. [[\underline]] and the various notches permit
any adjustment of height while the rower is standing or sitting.
[[underline]] Sails. [[\underline]] All of them, large or small, carry two
[[underline]] single lazy jacks. [[\underline]] tied below lowest stay, this
gathers sail and stays when lowering sail. The [[underline]] bamboo
stays make the very heavy booms of our sails unnecessary.
[[\underline]]
Kung Yee Tot Choi is the Chinese [[strikethrough]] saying
[[/strikethrough]] greeting which means: May your cabbages grow big.
I should buy a book called "On a Chinese Screen, by Somerset
Maugham, - gives amusing scetches of Chinese Life.
94
Hotel [[underline]] Macau, [[/underline]] ^[[Macao]] the best in town does
not amount to much but is acceptable. [[underline]] Proprietor
[[/underline]] half Chinese half Portugese, spoke fluent English all others
are Chinese. Hotel is picturesquely situated along [[strikethrough]] P
[[/strikethrough]] the shore shaded with trees. Fishing fleet of Junks,
anchored near by. Numerous sailboats everywhere. Chinese stores, but
[[underline]] streets decidedly wider [[/underline]] than in Chinese towns,
and whole place [[underline]] reminds of Portugal [[/underline]] inhabited
by Chinese. While my Ricksaw man was driving me around at the Plaza,
near monument to Vasco ^[[de]] Gama, A Portugese officer in seeing my
rosette of the Legion [[strikethrough]] of Honor [[/strikethrough]]
d'Honeur, stepped out of his Ricksaw and addressing me in [[underline]]
excellent French [[/underline]] volunteered to [[underline]] show me the
town. [[/underline]] (Lieutenant [[underline]] Royerio Feriera [[/underline]]
- Macao (China). Took me all around town, and also to the rocks where
Camoens ^[[Camoens]] wrote ^[[his]] [[underline]] Lusitiad. Macao
[[/underline]] is decidedly
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
95
cleaner than Chinese towns. Altho' known for its [[underline]] gambling
house [[/underline]] it is quiet and restful. In summer time patronized as
a summer resort. I wonder what hotel accommodations one gets, as the
hotel which is none too good can only accommodate a few people.
[[underline]] Macao [[/underline]] has [[underline]] paper money
[[/underline]] of its own, only accepted there at par with [[underline]]
Hong Kong Dollars [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] but [[/strikethrough]]
which [[underline]] are standard money there. [[/underline]] Outside of
fishing there seems to be no important industry There are [[underline]]
endless gambling houses [[/underline]] which pay revenue to the
Colony, and are its almost exclusive source of income. [[underline]]
"High class gambling House" [[/underline]] read the signs. They are
almost exclusively patronized by [[underline]] Chinese, of every class,
from the lowest [[strikethrough]] coll [[/strikethrough]] coolie [[/underline]]
who risks his [[strikethrough]] hardly [[/strikethrough]] hard earned "cash"
brass coins to prosperous looking Chinese and every variety of
Eurasians, with now and
96
then some white tourists who go there mostly for [[strikethrough]] the
[[/strikethrough]] curiosity sake. Anybody who calls these scrawny,
squalid looking gambling places, "the Monte Carlo of the Orient"
decidedly stretches his imagination. They are rather small houses,
[[strikethrough]] with a high [[/strikethrough]] about 3 stories high; a
larger room with high ceiling in the middle and 2 galleries one above
another. On the ground floor sits the Chinese who handles the game
(fan-tan) and who counts and rakes in the "cash" coins, while the 3d
class gamblers, every variety of Chinese coolie, or chinese women
silently watch the game eagerly. The gamblers sitting in the galleries
lean over the balustrade and watch the game; looking at the table
below, then bets or gains are handled in a [[underline]] little wooden
basket, [[/underline]] which a fat chinaman
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
97
dangles on a string and pole as a fisherman, and [[strikethrough]]
swings [[/strikethrough]] thus swings the money where it belongs. One
bets on the numbers one, two, three or four or on two numbers making a
corner. The whole game is entirely passive and requires no effort on the
part of the gambler. The whole thing seemed very quiet and orderly and
squalid. When a poor devil has lost his money, he pawns his watch, his
knife, or his ring or whatever he happens to possess, and right then and
there, without leaving the room he gets [[strikethrough]] card for
[[/strikethrough]] money for it, in about the same way as if he would
change a dollar bill for small change. [[underline]] When walking
[[strikethrough]] home [[/strikethrough]] to the hotel in the evening, with
Scott and Scotchmer, [[/underline]] we passed a street where a string of
colored electric lamps, and artificial flowers
98
and a gaily decorated [[strikethrough]] and electrical [[/strikethrough]]
palanquin with electric [[strikethrough]] lamps [[/strikethrough]] miniature
lamps and "king-Fisher"-bird feather ornamentation; and fire-crackers
denoted either a wedding or a funeral. - Both are celebrated in about
same way. We entered the ^[[narrow]] street, and joined the onlookers.
We found it was a wedding and they were waiting for the ^[[Chinese]]
bride, to come out. In the meantime a chinese band of drums, tymbals,
flutes and clarinets, now and then struck up its shrill, noisy falsetto;
interspersed with more [[underline]] firecrackers [[/underline]] so as to
[[underline]] drive away all evil spirit [[/underline]] and thus purify the
house and surroundings and the palanquin in which the bride was to
step. The Chinese were all dressed in their long slit gown;
[[strikethrough]] and [[/strikethrough]] some gray, some blue, and
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
99
a small dark colored plain [[strikethrough]] sh [[/strikethrough]] tunic or
[[strikethrough]] coat [[/strikethrough]] short coat, some wore little stiff
black skull caps others, plain felt hats, American type. There was much
talking jabbering, laughing among them; men, women and children all
seemed to have a very good time of it. The Bridegroom, a youth of
about 18 years old, according to custom, had to drink a glass with every
one of the guests and this had made him so drunk that he was so limp
and far-gone that two of his friends had to drag him back and forward
from [[strikethrough]] one [[/strikethrough]] his house to that of the bride
or across the 8 feet wide street supporting him by holding his arms over
the shoulders of 2 men. The bride did not show up at 11 P.M. Someone said [[underline]] she wanted some opium; [[/underline]] perhaps she dreaded to meet her husband
100
[[strikethrough]] Scott and [[/strikethrough]] We had been invited in the
house and treated as distinguished guests. by the family and according
to etiquette had to present our cards. after which they exchanged cards,
giving us some soiled business cards, indicating Name = Chin - Lung
Lee, or something like that followed by: "First class Carpenter and
Contractor". I felt tired [[strikethrough]] and wanted [[/strikethrough]] of
waiting and wanted some sleep, but [[underline]] Scott told me
somebody had to stay [[/underline]] so as not to make a [[underline]]
breach of good manners. [[/underline]] So I excused myself and got a
Ricksaw-man to drive me to the hotel; but he evidently misunderstood
me and drove me heaven knows where, along ill smelling dark places
and I could not make him understand I wanted the hotel, until finally
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[[start page]]
101
I found a man who knew some pidgin English and who helped me out.
Tired out, I arrived near midnight. Big awkward bed, [[strikethrough]]
cheel [[/strikethrough]] with mosquito netting, cheerless room
[[underline]] March 7. [[/underline]] Left [[underline]] Macao [[/underline]]
at 8 A.M with same steamer. Arrived [[underline]] Hong Kong
[[/underline]] about noon. A few other passengers. all [[underline]]
Eurasian looking Portugese. [[/underline]] These Macao boats are very
clean and well kept as far as 1st class passengers are concerned.
[[underline]] Chinese Boats. Rudder [[/underline]] has [[strikethrough]]
dea [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] losenge shaped openings [[/underline]]
- Why? van Anden thinks it allows quicker turn and greater strength for
same weight They are fastened to a rather heavy wooden pole and
hinged in such a way that they can easily be lifted out of the water,
either directly by hand or for the heavier ones by means of block and fall
attached as indicated in sketch.
102
[[first image: diagram of boat steering mechanism with sections labeled
"tiller", "rudder", "Rudder post", and 2 crossboards labeled "a" and "d";
the section below the rudder post is annotated:
"This is a slit in the stern which permits lifting the rudder blade upwards.
The 2 little crossboards a and d house the upper part of the rudder
post.]]
[[second image: diagram of boat steering mechanism with sections
labeled "B" with annotation "here comes the upper housing", "c", "Rope
for tackle to lift rudder", and "Stern board". Arrows from a section below
"c" and from "Stern board" point to the corresponding sections in the
third image]]
[[third image: diagram of boat steering mechanism with sections labeled
"Stern board", "B", and "c" with annotation: "c.c are two planks forming
a jaw holding rudder post"]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
103
Went to [[underline]] French Consul [[/underline]] to have my Passport
Visaed. Seeing my rosette of officer of [[underline]] Legion of Honor
[[/underline]] he forthwith became [[underline]] very courteous
[[/underline]] and inquired about my voyage and told me he [[underline]]
would telegraph [[/underline]] to the Governor announcing my arrival.
[[underline]] My bill at Hong Kong Hotel is 124 Hong Kong Mex.
[[/underline]] They charge me 17 Mex a day and 2/3 of a day for this last
day for overstaying beyond noon! Left for [[underline]] Canton
[[/underline]] by Pearl River at 10 [[strikethrough]] A.M. [[/strikethrough]]
P.M. Had single cabin to myself on new [[underline]] steamer Lung-Shan
[[/underline]] (or Lun Shan?) Clean berth, and room, hot and cold
running water, little room is cleverly arranged, [[underline]] better than
on our Hudson River steamers. [[/underline]] Restaurant simple but well
run. Good service. [[underline]] all Chinese except [[/underline]] and
crew. [[underline]] Same barred [[/underline]] gates, and steel plate
protection and armed guards of Sikhs and
104
armed crew, [[strikethrough]] on [[/strikethrough]] ^[[on]] [[underline]]
account of Pirates of Pearl River. [[/underline]] Great sight of
[[underline]] Hong Kong [[/underline]] at night and the twinkling lights on
the hills. Had some excellent Australian Port Wine called Penfold.
[[underline]] March 8. [[/underline]] (Sunday) Arrive early (about
[[underline]] 6.A.M at Canton [[/underline]] A river about 1/2 mile wide
with endless traffic of [[underline]] every kind of Chinese craft,
[[/underline]] big and small also steamers. Flat shores and 2 cheerless
rows of houses on both shores. [[strikethrough]] Some of
[[/strikethrough]] Houses are brick, some 3 and 4 stores. Look gray and
have tiled roofs similar to Spanish or European roof tiles. Around our
wharf are [[underline]] clustered endless sampan houseboats.
[[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] and then [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]]
Family life on them is easily observable from [[/underline]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
105
[[underline]] our deck. [[/underline]] Same hard working women, rowing
or sculling or poling, with a [[underline]] diminutive chink baby, asleep in
a little bag on her shoulders, [[/underline]] its head and arms and legs
hanging and swinging limply. At other boats [[strikethrough]] one
[[/strikethrough]] ^[[the]] youngsters are [[underline]] hunting for lice in
the hair [[/underline]] of their younger or elder brothers [[strikethrough]]
and [[/strikethrough]] or sisters. This is [[underline]] part of their daily
occupations; [[/underline]] reminds of the apes in the Zoo. Others are
cleaning their teeth with soft chinese tooth brushes and [[underline]] dip
them in the dirty muddy water of the stream! [[/underline]] On other
boats, [[strikethrough]] the [[/strikethrough]] children [[strikethrough]] are
either [[/strikethrough]] barely old enough to walk set off [[underline]]
firecrackers [[/underline]] on the bow of the boat, or over planting in a
hole on deck [[underline]] some smoking Joss sticks. [[/underline]] all
this [[underline]] "for good luck or for driving off bad spirits. Fire cracker
makers, [[/underline]] and Joss stick makers are an [[underline]]
important [[/underline]]
106
business here and venders of these wares offer them in their sampans
in the same way as vegetables are peddled out. They are
[[strikethrough]] for the Chinese a real [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]]
considered by the Chinese one of the necessities of life. [[/underline]]
The guide provided by Cooks Agency, is a talkative Chinese in long gray
slit tabbard and European felt hat, whose English I have to guess at and
who fires his talk incessantly. He steps in a ^[[bamboo]] Sedan
[[underline]] Chair or Palankin, [[/underline]] I step in the one following
him, but on account of [[underline]] my weight [[/underline]] he tells me
[[underline]] I need 3 coolie bearers, [[/underline]] - all barefooted and
stepping in rythm with the swing of the long teak poles, thru the crowded
[[underline]] Bund, [[/underline]] the same squalid, hustling, carrying,
pulling succession of dirty Chinese coolies, mostly all
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
107
barefooted. [[underline]] Ragged looking [[/underline]] soldiers, ditto
policemen in faded dark cotton ill fitting uniforms, [[strikethrough]] some
[[/strikethrough]] most in flimsy slippers. Buildings are in European style,
reminding somewhat of the newer buildings one sees in such places as
Naples or other Italian or French Cities and have several stories with
galleries opening on street and arcades below. They all seem crowded.
There are also some entirely new substantial concrete steel buildings of
[[underline]] respectable size and very modern construction.
[[/underline]] 4 or 5 stories high and look like big office or appartment
buildings. Streets on the Bund around the [[strikethrough]] water
[[/strikethrough]] shore are wide and asphalted or cemented [[underline]]
but dusty and dirty. [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] From [[/strikethrough]]
On these open the very narrow crooked streets which make the town.
Some of them barely 6 or 8 feet wide
108
and some of them smaller, crooked and irregular and encumbered with
every kind of dirt, and ashes, and refuse and litter, in which are housed
pellmell, money changers, butcher shops, chinese restaurants, shoe
[[strikethrough]] stores [[/strikethrough]] ^[[maker,]] jewellers, smiths,
taylors, companies and what not. Next [[underline]] to an ill smelling
[[/underline]] little shop is a [[underline]] prosperous, opulently furnished
jewelry store, [[/underline]] with [[strikethrough]] gold and silver carved
[[/strikethrough]] guilded carved ornaments. and rich furniture. and a
placid Chinese merchant throwing behind richly ornamented trimmings
The [[underline]] Shameen, [[/underline]] or European American is near
by and is [[underline]] separated [[/underline]] from the Chinese town, on
one side [[underline]] by the river [[/underline]] and a [[strikethrough]]
loop [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] canal like [[/underline]] loop, making
thus an Island accessible from 2 arched
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
109
bridges. [[underline]] Access restricted to ^[[Foreigners]] [[/underline]]
[[strikethrough]] while [[/strikethrough]] except the Chinese permitted
thus separating the Shameen from Canton proper. Policemen of
Shameen, in guard at the bridge gates. [[underline]] Shameen itself a
succession of very substantial well built European looking buildings,
[[/underline]] housing the Consulate, Banks and warehouses of
Europeans and Americans. British legation most prominent. Quiet
pleasant large well kept streets, all straight and well shaded. A true
[[underline]] Oasis in the turmoil and dirt of Canton. [[/underline]] All
around the Shameen in the adjacent waters of River or Canal,
[[underline]] thousands of Sampan, [[/underline]] houseboats, with their
families thickly parked next to the opposite shore. Are not allowed to tie
up on Shameen shore. This
110
leaves a free passage way [[strikethrough]] thru [[/strikethrough]] thru
which passes an endless procession of boats, paddled rowed or
[[underline]] skulled mostly by women [[/underline]] with the ever present
little [[underline]] bundle and child on her back. [[/underline]] The
transport or pedalle everything imaginable, each one having a specialty,
- butcher, fish-monger, bamboo poles, [[strikethrough]] fo
[[/strikethrough]] rice, vegetables, dried fish, fire-crackers, joss sticks,
kindling wood etc. etc. Procession keeps up till dark, and starts again early dawn. (See photos)
[[underline]] Victoria Hotel, [[/underline]] situated on the edge of
Shamian, near Canal looks well enough [[underline]] from outside.
[[/underline]] It is the [[underline]] best!!) [[/underline]] hotel but is
shabbily kept and run. Rooms and everything indicate neglect and lack
of care. Linen is limp and not white and patched and so is everything
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
111
else, and as they have no competition they can charge what they want.
Noisiest elevator I ever encountered keeps an intermittent shriek all over
hotel. Fortunately succeeded getting a room with bath. Flimsy akward
iron bed with mosquito netting. Guide took me thru town. 4 bearers for
my palanquin [[underline]] 3 bearers [[strikethrough]] from
[[/strikethrough]] for him. [[/underline]] Everywhere I am offered "real
amber beads". I paid 1 Dollar Mex for one single red amber bead (50
cents American) and as I suspected it proved to be [[underline]] bakelite
imported probably from Germany, Czekoslovakia or Holland if not from
Japan. [[/underline]] They asked me [[underline]] 25 cents [[/underline]]
(American money) for every yellow [[underline]] amber bead.
[[/underline]] From examination of some of these beads I suspect that
few of any are [[strikethrough]] rea [[/strikethrough]] natural
112
amber. Some of it is also made from reconstructing amber by dissolving
amber in a solvent, clearing the solution, by filtration or settling, then
evaporating them compacting the transparent residue in a warm
hydraulic press. Other shops are exclusively for [[underline]] embroidery
[[/underline]] - some of them in very dirty working conditions; the silk
[[underline]] embroidery [[/underline]] being done by [[underline]] dirty
small children, [[/underline]] boys and girls illwashed, unkempt looking
Other shops making the artwork of blue and green feathers of King
fisher birds, glued on silver settings in broaches, earrings and
[[strikethrough]] every [[/strikethrough]] various ornaments also for
[[underline]] palanquins [[/underline]] for weddings or funerals. Other
shops make and sell
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
113
[[underline]] jade [[/underline]] of every price and quality, some of it
being hardly better than onyx or tinted glass; other varieties being
[[underline]] sold at absurdedly high prices equalling that of costly gems.
[[/underline]] I do not see how anybody likes jade, it is a cheap common
looking material.
Poor devils, barefooted and in rags, [[strikethrough]] win
[[/strikethrough]] ^[[spin]] their primitive [[strikethrough]] foot and
[[/strikethrough]] wooden contrivances which [[underline]] act as lathes
[[/underline]] and [[underline]] use both hand and feet. [[/underline]] They
look dirty and miserable to the extreme, yet smile and laugh and do not
seem unhappy. They [[underline]] look happier [[/underline]]
[[strikethrough]] than mas [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] if less
prosperous than many of my rich friends in America or other parts of the
[[strikethrough]] world [[/strkethrough]] world. [[/underline]] There is
comparatively little [[underline]] begging [[/underline]]
114
[[underline]] incomparably less than in Spain [[/underline]] or [[underline]]
Italy [[/underline]] and specially [[underline]] less than in Egypt.
[[/underline]] But what ^[[a]] succession of smells! And what they eat
and live on: Every conceivable kind of dried or salted possible or
impossible food. Dried shrimps, dried worms, dried greens, dried ducks,
some flattened and varnished, [[underline]] dried and varnished
chickens, [[/underline]] they tell me [[underline]] dried rats! [[/underline]]
dried snails, dried inkfish, dried skins, blackened chickens, [[underline]]
washer intestines, [[/underline]] and what not! Everybody seems to be
eating or purchasing some eatables. They are trotting along holding
bare [[strikethrough]] in a [[/strikethrough]] tied in a green bamboo knot,
either a [[underline]] little piece of fresh meat, [[/underline]] or a
[[underline]] fragment of [[/underline]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
115
a fish, a little strip of vegetable, or some bit of liver or any other fragment
of their favored delicacies and [[underline]] hop along with it as if they
were exhibiting to their neighbors the tit-bits [[/underline]] they were to
have for luncheon, and [[underline]] all seem happy and pleased altho'
they look [[/underline]] dirty and squalid. All the [[underline]] carrying
[[/underline]] is done [[underline]] on poles, [[/underline]] mostly bamboo,
[[strikethrough]] other [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] less frequently teak
poles, [[/underline]] slung over their shoulder. In this way they carry
everything, [[underline]] from a basket of eggs [[/underline]] to heavy
[[strikethrough]] slaps [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] slabs of stone, or a
piano [[/underline]] or a chiffoniere or a coffin. Men and women are
equally expert at this game and they hop along in short ^[[elastic]] steps
[[underline]] timed [[/underline]] to the [[strikethrough]] el swam
[[/strkethrough]] short up and down [[underline]] springlike swing of the
pole. [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] When [[/strikethrough]]
116
If the weight is heavy and two [[strikethrough]] are carryin
[[/strikethrough]] or more are carrying they [[underline]] keep measure by
a monotonous repetition of a few words, [[/underline]] sung out in
[[strikethrough]] rythmt [[/strikethrough]] rythm. by one and repeated by
the others, similar to [[underline]] the way Arabs do in Egypt. Joss
temples, dirty, [[/underline]] unattended dusty. Outside on the
flagstones [[underline]] I saw tea leaves spread out amongst the dust
and dirt; they were the tea leaves which had been used in tea houses
[[/underline]] or restaurants, [[underline]] and left in the pots,
[[/underline]] and which were [[underline]] redried and resold to poor
people. Joss sticks [[/underline]] and fire works, and prayers printed on
painted on paper and then burnt. and a gambling device of 2 wooden
halves of a block bearing Chinese characters, being dropped on the
ground telling whether good
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
117
luck or bad luck or whether [[underline]] Joss [[/underline]] says "yes" or
"no" to prayer [[underline]] Gambler is religion. Priests [[/underline]] or
attendants, [[underline]] dirty ragged [[/underline]] looking and
[[underline]] stupid appearance, [[/underline]] - squalid clothes.
[[underline]] Manure heaps, [[/underline]] in temples or near by. Temple
of 500 Genii looks like a badly kept warehouse. Many of the Joss
temples are now soldiers barracks. [[underline]] Soldiers as slovenly
[[/underline]] as the [[underline]] temples themselves. [[/underline]] The
cemetary with appartments where [[underline]] coffins [[/underline]] are
[[underline]] kept for periods ranging from a few weeks to thirty or more
years, [[/underline]] as long as rental is paid before they are finally
buried. They are kept here amid [[underline]] Joss sticks etc. burned for
them, rice, and wine and belongings [[/underline]] offered, or
[[underline]] objects in paper representing articles or necessities
[[/underline]]
118
of life belonging to deceased are burnt. with the understanding
[[underline]] that deceased has them thus in daily use. [[/underline]] All
this [[underline]] intensely stupid [[/underline]] and [[underline]] sordid. So are most religions. [[/underline]] Their religion [[strikethrough]] seems
to [[/strikethrough]] and their temples seem to [[strikethrough]] go
[[/strikethrough]] have become more neglected since the Manchu
Dynasty was driven out of power.
[[underline]] Dr. Sun Yat Sun [[/underline]] died yesterday after lingering
illness. Most Americans and Europeans have [[underline]] little good to
say about him, [[/underline]] nor do the papers; he seems to have a
[[underline]] crafty wilful [[/underline]] man fanatically bent to sacrifice
[[striketrhough]] facts [[/strikethrough]] practical commonsense and
ignore facts [[underline]] to foster his favorite social theories.
[[/underline]] Inviting Bolsheviks and everything to help him
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
119
accomplish his own ends, and while talking of the will of China, merely
thinking of [[underline]] his own will; [[/underline]] his own opinions. Merely an impractical fanatic who [[underline]] rose to importance
[[/underline]] because he was one of the earliest factors to [[underline]]
overthrow the Manchu Dynasty and substitute and awkward Republic
[[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] who [[/strikethrough]] merely a label to
[[underline]] appeal to the younger element [[/underline]] and students
Saw an ugly multistory Pagoda all very tawdry
[[underline]] Fearful dirty habits of Chinese. [[/underline]] Continuous
[[underline]] loud expectoration [[/underline]] and [[underline]] spitting
everywhere. [[/underline]] The [[underline]] first noise [[/underline]] with
which [[underline]] the day starts [[/underline]] and the [[underline]] last
noises while falling asleep. [[/underline]] A general impression of childish
materialises, fondness for new articles. [[underline]] Thermos bottle very
popular [[/underline]]
120
[[underline]] Chinamen, taking a walk carrying a bird cage along.
[[\underline]] Saw [[underline]] funeral procession [[\underline]] gayly
decorated [[underline]] palaquines, [[\underline]] their [[underline]]
grotesque shrill colored [[?mannitens]] [[\underline]] full size, are
glaringly dressed.
Sometimes looks to me like a [[underline]] lunatic asylum, [[\underline]]
sometimes like [[underline]] Dantes Inferno. [[\underline]] Then again I
see these toiling sweating stupid looking men and women smile and
laugh as [[underline]] if they enjoyed their life more than some of my rich
friends, men [[\underline]] and women. Happiness after all is relative!
[[underline]] March 9. [[\underline]] Went to [[underline]] U.S Consul's
office, no cables. [[\underline]] Met [[underline]] Schotchmer there,
[[\underline]] took me to lunch to his house, pleasant lunch pleasant chat
and excellent Portugese Portwine brought
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
121
from Macao. He lent me the excellent [[underline]] launch [[\underline]]
and [[underline]] crew of Texas Oil Co to go to Canton Christian College
[[\underline]] about 4-5 miles further up the river. A grand sight. Many
large Junks at anchor. Salt fleet, also some rusty looking small
steamers camouflaged green which constitute [[underline]] South China
Navy. [[\underline]] Their high pooped large [[underline]] Chinese Junk passenger steamers, [[\underline]] either towed by tugboats. Awkward,
old and ugly, crowded with Chinese passengers. Some are self
propelled by an old engine, others are propelled by [[underline]] stern
paddle wheels, the motive power [[\underline]] being [[underline]]
provided by a dozen or more coolies who keep treading a set of thread
[[\underline]] wheels, geared to the paddles
122
[[left margin]] Henry S. Frank. - Helen J. Gilroy [[\left margin]]
[[underline]] College [[\underline]] occupies extensive grounds. The
youngest pupils in preparatory school are merely [[underline]] 8-10
[[\underline]] years old. Both sexes. [[underline]] Professors American
English and Scotch. [[\underline]] Athletics, gardening, agriculture etc.
Acting president is [[underline]] Mr. Baxter, [[\underline]] a Scotchman.
Professor of Chemistry is [[underline]] Frank [[\underline]] a member of
A.C.S. and a [[underline]] Pittsburgh University graduate; [[\underline]]
Miss [[underline]] Gilroy [[\underline]] also received me. [[underline]]
Chin [[\underline]] an intelligent Chinese [[underline]] who studied
[[\underline]] in U.S is professor [[underline]] of Analytical Chemistry.
[[\underline]] A few months ago [[underline]] Pirates took launch of
college [[\underline]] and [[underline]] kept crew [[\underline]] and about
50 [[underline]] Chinese [[\underline]] students for Ransom. There was
[[underline]] one American [[\underline]] aboard, [[underline]] whom they
sent back. [[\underline]]
Accepted invitation for
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
123
[[left margin]] 173. Hong Kong Mex Dollars. (180 = 100 $. American)
[[\left margin]]
Thursday night to lecture to Faculty and students after dinner at Baxters.
Returning went to Pohomull Brothers (Farrees?) 15 French Concession,
Shameen, Canton, and [[underline]] bought slightly under $100
American worth of silk Shawls, silk fabric [[\underline]] etc which they are
to send insured by [[underline]] Parcel Post to Celine. [[\underline]]
[[underline]] March 10. [[\underline]] Had a poor night on account of bad
cold. Ordered [[underline]] 100 bamboo poles [[\underline]] and one oar
thru [[underline]] George F. Fisher, [[\underline]] of Gerin Dreward & Co.,
Shameen Canton. He is to draw upon Bakelite Corporation.
Afternoon [[underline]] Scotchmer [[\underline]] and [[underline]] Osborn
Watson, U.S. Trade Commissioner, [[\underline]] took me in motor
[[underline]] car to the country. Chinese chauffeur [[\underline]] went
along the mediocre & winding road, [[underline]] till we struck
[[\underline]]
124
our limit on account of [[underline]] frail primitive bridge, which could not
stand our car. Graves and graves [[\underline]] everywhere. Some
[[?plocier]] small mounds of sand. Others elaborate in sand and mortor
and the general shape of the horseshoe shaped wall, terraced
sometimes: [[underline]] Primitive [[\underline]] wooden [[underline]]
ploughs. Water buffalo everywhere. Stupid looking animal.
[[\underline]] Entered in a [[underline]] village flanked by four square flat
towers with slits for rifles or bows. Houses brick and thatched or rileroofs. [[\underline]] Men and women, and particularly children
[[underline]] very dirty, [[\underline]] and [[underline]] many flies
[[\underline]] on their dirty faces. Same small, narrow crooked streets
full of stenches. [[underline]] Won the [[\underline]] good will by
[[underline]] buying each child [[\underline]] of the village a piece of
[[underline]] sugar cane. [[\underline]] At first all
[[drawing of stick figure child in hat]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
125
surly and wondering. Same [[underline]] neglected Joss temples
[[\underline]] with birds, animals and figures, well sculptured on brick
facade. Incongruous good piece of work in this drab, colorless, dirty and
neglected structure. Same bronze or gilded idols, turned black from
smoke of ever added [[underline]] smoking Joss sticks. Children afraid
[[\underline]] of Kodak then a little "[[?Cumshaw"]] (commission for tip)
took away their hesitations. [[underline]] Squalor [[\underline]] reminds
me [[underline]] that of Egypt [[\underline]] except that instead of mudhouses, there are [[underline]] black gray square brick. [[\underline]] I
[[underline]] heard [[\underline]] a [[underline]] drum [[\underline]] and a
[[underline]] falsetto [[\underline]] small [[underline]] clarinet [[\underline]]
and between the fields [[underline]] moved a winding file of barefooted
coolies and an peaked bamboo [[\underline]]
[[drawing of stick figure child in hat]]
126
hats, [[underline]] in ragged clothes, [[/underline]] but each bearing a
[[underline]] rifle, [[/underline]] preceded [[underline]] by a man bearing a
flag [[/underline]] and another [[underline]] beating a drum, [[/underline]]
all very [[underline]] clumsy [[/underline]] and [[underline]] ridiculous but
for the thought that this may be the beginning of "China's awakening"
[[/underline]] and [[underline]] much trouble in store [[/underline]] for
those [[underline]] white traders [[/underline]] who in their eagerness for
trade have compelled the "awakening" instead of "letting sleeping dogs
lie quiet".
[[left margin]] !! [[/left margin]]
Am told many [[underline]] emissaries [[/underline]] of [[underline]]
Russian Bolsheviks [[/underline]] are [[underline]] spreading all over
China [[/underline]]
[[underline]] March 11. [[/underline]] Still bad cold. Beautiful bright day.
Evening went to dinner at [[underline]] Scotchmer's. [[strikethrough]]
Coun [[/strikethrough]] U.S. Consul General Jenkins and wife
[[/underline]] there; Captain ET. [[underline]] Constien [[/underline]]
U.S.N. and [[strikethrough]] comm [[/strikethrough]] flag officer
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
127
of the 2 American small warships at anchor in service & wife. Mr.
Carnegie, Manager of Electric lighting company and wife and Osborn
Watson U.S Trade Commissioner the other guests A very pleasant and
interesting conversation till 11.P.M.
March 12. [[strikethrough]] Order from George F. Fisher White shawls
for Redman, Rossi, Townsend, Howe & Parsons and 3 pieces of silk
and 3 chinese purses for Celine, [[/underline]] to be charged to Bakelite
Corporation and wrote George Baekeland about it Asked Watson to buy
me specimens of so called [[underline]] "dutch" [[/underline]] and so
called [[underline]] "German" amber and to mail [[/underline]] to Bakelite
Corporation. X
[[left margin]] X [[underline]] Launch [[/underline]] of [[underline]]
Christian College came to fetch me [[/underline]] for dinner at President
Baxter's house. Then addressed Faculty and students at [[underline]]
Sweazy Hall. [[/underline]] Subject = Chemistry in America. Much
handicapped by my cold. [[/left margin]]
Returned at 10 with their boat. Evening when coming home I found a
[[underline]] young man from North Carolina whose name is Bradsear
[[/underline]] and who was a pupil of [[underline]] Herty. [[/underline]] He
travels
128
in the interior of China for an [[underline]] American Tobacco company.
[[/underline]] Tells me the [[underline]] dirt [[/underline]] and [[underline]]
slovenliness [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] of [[/strikethrough]] is even
[[underline]] worse [[/underline]] than in [[underline]] Canton [[/underline]]
of [[underline]] unheard acts of cruelty being committed. [[/underline]]
Says [[underline]] reputation of Chinese as to honesty is absurd A
Japanese may be unfaithful to an American or to [[strikethrough]] a
[[/strikethrough]] European but is scrupulously faithful to his own
employees and can be trusted by them with large sums of money. But
that a Chinese, high or low, will look out for himself if he has a chance
and steal and betray his own employees. [[/underline]] That the filth and
dirt is incredible.
March 13. Up early. Left by steamer [[underline]] Lung-Shan
[[\underline]] at 8:00 AM Excellent cabin to myself A very varied
assortment of
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
129
passengers entering over gang plank. The [[underline]] Chinese men
and women [[/underline]] all examined for [[underline]] hidden weapons
[[/underline]] Loading and loading every kind of merchandise. Some
arrives in Sampans, others in lighters, others brought aboard carried on
poles. [[underline]] Chinamen walking in carrying their bird cage,
[[/underline]] others a [[underline]] small dog [[/underline]] or bundles
and packages. Women old and young. Chinese [[underline]] women
[[/underline]] certainly do not look pretty, their [[underline]] flat faces,
prominent cheek bones [[/underline]] and [[underline]] prominent set of
teeth [[/underline]] which seem to [[underline]] protrude [[/underline]] out
of their mouth. Only [[underline]] limited number [[/underline]] have
[[underline]] stunted feet, [[/underline]] others have full sized feet
Stunted ones, look absurd, and seem to walk on stubs. Specially
[[underline]] absurd [[/underline]] to see a [[underline]] fat rotund-bellied
Chinese woman in trousers [[/underline]] pitter down at her feet to stubs
and walk clumsily down the gang plank.
130
[[underline]] River is shallow [[/underline]] - part of the Delta. Water is
about the color of the Nile. Further down it becomes somewhat clearer
and looks greenish. Flat shores with mountains in the distance. Junks,
[[underline]] Sampans [[/underline]] and [[underline]] fishing boats.
[[/underline]] Shores planted with [[underline]] rice. [[/underline]] Villages
here and there drab clusters of brick houses, with one or
[[strikethrough]] several [[/strikethrough]] 4 square brick towers
[[underline]] used as forts.[[/underline]] Some of them have a high
[[underline]] peaked bamboo [[/underline]] or straw hut which stands
high out above the surroundings. Several of the [[underline]] hills
[[/underline]] bear on their top a [[underline]] pagoda [[/underline]] which
at a distance looks like a large smoek-stake. Am told summers in
[[underline]] Canton very hot [[/underline]] and sultry, much rain and
mosquitoes. The hot period is about to begin. The second
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[[start page]]
131
[[left margin]] Alex. W. van Anden, Holland china Trading Co. Hong
Kong. [[/left margin]]
part of [[underline]] Pearl River [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] resembles
[[/strikethrough]] reminds me of Japan Inland Sea. A [[underline]]
steamer going up [[/underline]] river hails us to stop and [[underline]]
tells us that [[/underline]] the passenger Steamer [[underline]] Hanon
[[\underline]] which left Canton last evening for Hong Kong [[underline]]
lies disabled [[/underline]] ^[at anchor]] with broken machinery and is
awaiting us to transfer her passengers [[underline]] on our [[/underline]]
boat to [[underline]] Hong Kong. Hanon [[/underline]] has aboard about
[[underline]] 200 [[/underline]] passengers mostly [[underline]] Americans
[[/underline]] who [[underline]] are touring the World [[/underline]] on
[[underline]] SS. California. [[/underline]] They looked a rather tired lot
specially the men. They have not slept much last night. Many of them
look like an awkward lot of [[strikethrough]] the useful [[/strikethrough]]
[[underline]] "Babbits" [[/underline]] same old fat men and women, many
sour-looking individuals, [[strikethrough]] some [[/strikethrough]] etc.
Arrived in Hong Kong at 4 P.M. Then found that I had no room altho' I
had reserved it. Finally at 6 P.M
132
got a room. The whole hotel and town and shops are over-run with the
[[underline]] Babbits [[/underline]] of the SS. California. After I hear their
conversation and see the lot of them I am more than ever unlikely to join
in any of their ^[[organised]] [[underline]] Around the World trips.
[[/underline]]
[[underline]] March 14. [[/underline]] Paid $140 Hongkong Mex. Dollars
for my passage on S.S. [[underline]] Angkor [[/underline]] to [[underline]]
Saigon. [[/underline]] Will take [[underline]] 3 days. [[/underline]] Wanted
to buy some of those excellent bamboo chair as I saw on Lun-shan
Prices offered are $3.00 Hongkong Mex. a piece, and 2 are packed
together for 80 cents making 40 cents more per chair. Freight is very
expensive because it goes by cubic contents. I believe the freight for 12
chairs to New York will be 70$. (American?)
The [[underline]] circumstances [[/underline]] of the SS. California, have
invaded
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
133
the [[underline]] lobby [[/underline]] of the hotel and all comparing and
displaying their bargains. One addressed as "the doctor" [[underline]]
explains [[/underline]] his prices and bargains and tries his shawls on the
women of his party. Another one, with a parchment dried face, is
calculating with another that by going from Paris to London in a certain
way he comes out [[underline]] 40 cents [[/underline]] to the good.
Another is calculating that in 71 days he will be back in Los Angeles
[[strikethrough]] and [[/strikethrough]] as if he had to pass thru some
further ordeal. The man addressed as "Doctor" must be a [[underline]]
surgeon. [[/underline]] He [[underline]] enumerates the money he has
spent on his purchases [[/underline]] and winds up by saying:
[[underline]] "One single operation of appendicitis will pay for the whole
lot!" Scott [[/underline]] introduced me to the local manager of the
Standard
Mr. H.H. [[underline]] Pethick [[/underline]] X
134
Oil. Company who furnished me letters of introduction for their manager
in [[underline]] Saigon [[/underline]] and in [[underline]] Bangkok.
[[/underline]] In the S.O. Co office there is a Yachtsman who just
published an article in Yachting on a cruise he made to [[underline]]
Macao. [[/underline]]
[[underline]] Scott [[/underline]] took me and his colleague of [[underline]]
Texas Co., [[/underline]] Mr. Lefebure, (a Harvard man, '18) in his Ford
to his house up the hills. to take tea His mother a pleasant lady from
British Columbia and his wife. Most beautiful view over Bay and hills and
mountains and Islands. rather reminds me of Rio de Janeiro.
Fishing fleet of Aberdeen coming in with full batwing sails set. Then after
sunset a row of glares of distant [[underline]] acetylene [[/underline]]
lights on boats [[underline]] going out fishing [[/underline]] with light
glares during
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
135
night. [[underline]] This shows once more that certain fish is attracted by
glares during the night. [[/underline]]
[[underline]] March 15. [[/underline]] 1925 Sunday. Steamer S.S.
[[underline]] Angkor [[/underline]] is in and will leave 3-4 P.M Went
aboard 11.A.M with the French Launch. I have a pleasant room all to
myself [[underline]] Angkor [[/underline]] is only about [[underline]] 10000
[[/underline]] tons Cabins 1st class all outside rooms simple but
convenient with electric ceiling fan - all one kind with 2 beds each. At
first the crew and officers look rather slouchy and miss the trimness of
British or American ships. The [[underline]] heavy moustached waiters
[[/underline]] also look rather different from our ships. It's rather damp
and sultry this morning. When going to the ship with the steam launch I
noticed that [[underline]] Hong Kong [[/underline]] cricketers, or tennis
players, or excursionists put on white or kaki very short trousers
reaching about 4" above their knees, and wear a short jacket
136
above this. I wonder how their exposed knees [[strikethrough]] and
[[/strikethrough]] stand the mosquitoes?
[[strikethrough]] Yester [[/strikethrough]] There is a [[underline]]
shipwrecked crew of Chinese [[/underline]] on deck eating their rice.
Yesterday [[underline]] this steamer [[/underline]] in passing [[underline]]
thru a fog [[/underline]] ran [[underline]] into a Junk [[/underline]] and the
latter was cut into. Junk had no bell nor fog horn. Am told the
[[underline]] two halves floated off [[/underline]] separately; this is the
[[underline]] advantage [[/underline]] of the [[underline]] honeycombed
compartment construction. [[/underline]] All [[strikethrough]] sear
[[/strikethrough]] were taken off the floating [[strikethrough]] pieces
[[/strikethrough]] halves. There are [[underline]] 8 men [[/underline]] 5
women and 4 children. The accident occurred near [[underline]] Swatow.
[[/underline]] They [[underline]] speak a dialect nobody can understand,
the Cantonese Chinese cannot understand [[/underline]] them. They had
some of their saved belongings in bundles on deck, amongst them their
dol-like [[underline]] house gods. [[/underline]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
137
The ship is overrun by Chinese whose sampans are lying near, and who
sell every kind of article to the sailors and crew and passengers There is
quite a competition in offering Canton-bamboo chairs. The nice chairs I
saw on the Lun-Shan and for which I was asked 3.25-3.50 Hong Kong
Mex in Hong Kong are offered [[underline]] now at 3.00 [[/underline]] and
I am sure that if I offered [[underline]] 2.50 [[/underline]] I would get
them. A Bird feather brooch was offered at 1.50 H.K. Mex. I tried 1.00
offer, and immediately he answered: [[underline]] "Can do", [[/underline]]
and I got it. I dislike bidding and bargaining but these people expect it
An hour before steamer left, the smoking room was filled with
[[underline]] dignified looking Chinese gentlemen, women [[/underline]]
and girls who came to see off one of their friends The old gentlemen
ordered [[underline]] champagne [[/underline]] which was distributed
[[underline]] sparingly [[/underline]] in tall thin glasses
138
by an old Chinese gentleman in long gray tabard and Chinese scullcap,
and whose bespectacled [[underline]] wrinkled brown [[strikethrough]]
face [[/strikethrough]] yellow face, [[/underline]] reminded that of
[[underline]] a mummy. [[/underline]] All the Chinese, men, women and
girls, seemed to enjoy the Champagne very much. The best and most
expensive only costs [[underline]] 30 frcs [[/underline]] a bottle, which at
current prices of 1 frc = 5 cents american costs only about $1.50
American a quart bottle. Light Champagne "Tisane", only costs
[[underline]] 55 cents a quart, [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] about
[[/strikethrough]] decidedly [[underline]] cheaper than mineral water
[[/underline]] in Hong Kong.
Passengers here are most all bound [[underline]] for Marseilles.
[[/underline]] Many French officials or officers returning home, some with
their wives and children, also some French businessmen and 2 or 3
Americans
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
139
and half a dozen [[strikethrough]] loud [[/strikethrough]] noisy
[[underline]] American Jews. [[/underline]]
[[strikethrough]] The sho [[/strikethrough]] Also in steerage
[[strikethrough]] rocue [[/strikethrough]] ^[[a few]] returning French
soldiers and sailors on leave of absence for home There is a negro
soldier amongst them. The bath room steward is a Chinese who speaks
French. [[strikethrough]] Few [[/strikethrough]] All other men of the crew
are [[underline]] French, [[/underline]] most of them near middle-age
[[underline]] fat [[/underline]] and [[strikethrough]] moustached
[[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] heavily moustached. [[/underline]] There is
a ^[[helmetted]] French priest, "en soutane" with a [[underline]] long
bushy never yet cut beard, [[/underline]] and half a dozen nuns or sisters
of Charity. The decks are narrower than usual on steamers [[underline]] no games [[/underline]] going on whatever - not even shuffle
board. Very little drinking, [[strikethrough]] the [[/strikethrough]] a small
group plays poker all day. There is no ship band, nor Jazz Thank God!
Everything very quiet and simple A few
140
French and English magazines in the parlor, a few business reference
books [[strikethrough]] otherwise [[/strikethrough]] directories for France
but [[underline]] no library. Cooking [[/underline]] is rather [[underline]]
clumsy [[/underline]] and decidedly not as well prepared nor served as
on ordinary American passenger ships. The Chinese keeps his
bathrooms clean. Nobody aboard [[underline]] can change [[/underline]]
me my [[underline]] Hong Kong money [[/underline]] and they seem to
have a hazy idea as to the value of exchange. There is the usual petty
quarreling among the waiters and men and women of the crew and long
explanations and objections and remarks [[strikethrough]] when an order
is given [[/strikethrough]] and meddling when an order is given. And
amongst the old moustached waiters there is an attitude of surliness
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
141
which one would not expect amongst Frenchmen. [[underline]] Has
Bolshivism made inroads in France?[[/underline]] We left an hour late
after much loud talking and exclamation of purser and supercargo and
explanations "why and why not".
Am put at a table with a short [[underline]] squatty French official
[[/underline]] who wears the ribbon of Legion of honor and his young
wife, with straight bobbed hair, who are on visit home from Pekin and a
certain Mr. [[underline]] Alligon, [[/underline]] who is inspector of one of
the French [[underline]] Insurance companies [[/underline]] and who has
travelled much and gives me information about [[underline]] Saigon
[[/underline]] Pnom Penh, Bangkok and their hotels etc
[[left margin]] Mr. Pierre Alligon. Inspecteur de la Compagnie l'UrbaineIncendie, 8 Rue Pelletier - Paris [[/left margin]]
[[underline]] March 16 [[/underline]] Increasing sultriness. Thermometer
in cabin is only 80:F Quiet day writing up notes, letters reading etc. My
cold almost gone.
142
Sent wireless reserving room to [[underline]] Continental Hotel
[[/underline]] in [[underline]] Saigon. [[/underline]]
March 17. Pleasant weather, but sultry. Temp. 80F
1 P.M. [[underline]] Mountain Coast Indo-china well in sight.
[[/underline]] During night got wireless [[underline]] no rooms available at
Continental Hotel; [[/underline]] while I was in bed. Wired to Hotel
[[underline]] Rotonde [[/underline]] Packing during night, sultry air
March 18. [[strikethrough]] Arrived [[/strikethrough]] Mekong river
winding thru flat lands, [[underline]] rice fields [[/underline]] and scrubs,
pretty well settled agriculturally Well buoyed. [[underline]] Very sultry
[[/underline]] altho' Thermometer marks [[underline]] only 80F.
[[/underline]]
Small sailboats [[underline]] eyes on bow carry [[/underline]] a sail
[[underline]] similar to sliding gunther [[/underline]] but without a
[[underline]] jaw [[underline]] on yard. Others have sail similar to the
Nugger of 2d Cataract on the Nile. [[underline]] Boats seem well
[[/underline]] designed, and look clean
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
143
and sails of ^[[white]] cotton. [[underline]] Women [[/underline]] rowing
look more slender and [[underline]] graceful than the stumpy Chinese
women of the North [[/underline]]
Approaches to [[underline]] Saigon [[/underline]] look cheerful though
simple. Near City [[underline]] several steamers [[/underline]] at anchor.
Mostly Norwegian then French, English or under Chinese flag (English
owned) one American, and [[underline]] one German. [[/underline]] The
latter [[underline]] is the first since [[/underline]] the war. Several
Japanese steamers. [[underline]] Annamite women [[/underline]] rowing
wear long sleazy silk coat above their trousers. [[underline]] Lands well
cultivated. [[/underline]] Whole land has [[underline]] delta aspect.
[[/underline]] We finally drop anchor so as to swing ship with bow
towards current then haul in to well built wharf. [[underline]] Indian
money changers [[/underline]] called Cletties, wearing [[underline]] a flat
Fez [[/underline]] and having a [[underline]] Jewish [[/underline]]
144
looking face, carry a bag and [[underline]] change money. [[/underline]]
[[strikethrough]] They [[/strikethrough]] Many [[underline]] white
helmetted Frenchmen [[/underline]] at pier. [[underline]] Incomparably
[[/underline]] more pleasant and less noisy crowd [[underline]] than
[[/underline]] at [[underline]] Shanghai. [[/underline]] Men and women,
Annamites, smaller and more graceful than Chinese. Ricksaw to
[[underline]] Rotonde [[\underline]] situated near by. They have a room
in the annex $8 piastes daily food included. Spacious room high
ceilings, running water, [[underline]] no bath, [[/underline]] big bed with
mosquito curtains, electric light & electric fan. [[underline]] Hotel
Continental [[/underline]] near by [[strikethrough]] near [[/strikethrough]]
[[underline]] looks like [[/underline]] a large Parisian hotel and
Restaurant. Rotonde similar but smaller. People sitting at tables on sidewalk as in Paris. Streets well shaded by trees, straight
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
145
and clean and lined with various shops. Pleasant impression as a city.
but [[underline]] limited breeze feels hot. [[/underline]] Hotel Rotonde on
[[strikethrough]] near [[/strikethrough]] the boulevard along Mekong;
steamers to Pnom-Penh arrive there. Went to bank got 175 piastres for
$100. International mostly passing travelers and foreigners At Rotonde
mostly French officers and their family and functionnaires. [[underline]]
Atmosphere [[/underline]] more [[underline]] exclusively French,
[[strikethrough]] and [[/strikethrough]] good food, good service.
[[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] Good [[/strikethrough]] Got excellent light
French [[underline]] Champagne [[/underline]] (Tisane) at [[underline]]
75c [[/underline]] American per half bottle. Service done by Annamites.
Quiet only head waiter understands [[strikethrough]] E [[/strikethrough]]
French [[strikethrough]] or Eu [[/strikethrough]] Drove around Ricksaw
pulled by [[strikethrough]] little A [[/strikethrough]] cheerful little
146
Annamite, barelegged barefooted only short white trousers and wear a
straight conical Annamite palm hat. [[drawing of hat]] Everybody tells me
my [[underline]] Panama hat no protection must wear helmet (topee)
[[/underline]] bought one $4.00 Am. Visited zoo, pretty park, animals of
the country, tigers, monkeys, birds also [[strikethrough]] black b
[[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] small black bears, [[/underline]] with dense
jet black fur and a white or yellow crescent on upper chest. See
[[underline]] no horses [[/underline]] nor [[underline]] horse vehicles;
[[/underline]] only ricksaws or other vehicles pulled by men. Quite a
number of automobiles; mostly small "Citroen", all make much noise
with their horn as in Paris. [[underline]] Ford well known and liked.
[[/underline]]
In Zoo saw apes catching
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
147
lice from each other, in [[underline]] same way as Chinese children
[[/underline]] did in [[underline]] Canton [[/underline]]
[[underline]] Annamite men and women [[/underline]] wear
[[strikethrough]] slea [[/strikethrough]] sleezy shiny long black trousers,
and women wear long narrow slitted shirt above. [[strikethrough]] All
[[/strikethrough]] Those who are not barefooted wear a long [[underline]]
narrow slipper sandal of wood, [[/underline]] or wood and leather which
makes [[underline]] noise [[/underline]] similar to wooden shoes of
Japanese. Great number of bicycles, coolies, barefooted annamites,
functionnaires etc. [[underline]] all have bicycle. [[/underline]] Reminds
me of time when ^[[a]] bicycle was a luxury some 30 years ago and
[[underline]] when I could not afford to buy one, [[/underline]] and the
[[underline]] feeling [[/underline]] of [[underline]] luxury [[/underline]] and
[[underline]] happiness [[/underline]] when [[underline]] Celine
[[/underline]] and [[underline]] myself [[/underline]] got our first
148
bicycle in [[underline]] 1897. [[/underline]] Same old story. [[underline]]
Luxury is what the next man can not get. [[/underline]] Coolies here do
not seem to think a bicycle a luxury no more than in U.S a Ford auto is
considered a luxury. Annamite men and women knot their hair.
[[underline]] Difficult to know man from woman [[/underline]] at first
[[underline]] unless man [[/underline]] has [[underline]] moustache.
[[/underline]] Chinese ^[[coolies]] wear same large bamboo curved
conical hat as in Canton while Annamites have lighter straight cone
shaped hat. [[two drawings of the different types of hats]] Begin to see
some [[underline]] turbaned Indians (Tamils) [[/underline]] also
[[underline]] fezzed Farsies. [[/underline]] Latter keep stores of fancy
goods as in Canton. The Northern type of Chinaman and Cantonese
Chinamen are
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
149
quite numerous. Also the stumpy Northern Chinese [[underline]] "Amah"
[[/underline]] who attends to little [[underline]] French children
[[/underline]] as nurse. [[underline]] Tongkinese women [[/underline]]
have a turban like ring around head, some have long hair which they
gather and twist around head and swing end thru turban ring to hold it,
[[underline]] very graceful coiffure. Saigon [[/underline]] well laid out,
broad boulevards, shade trees everywhere. Very [[underline]] handsome
new Opera building. [[/underline]] City better laid out and more cheerful
looking [[underline]] than most French Cities [[/underline]] of its size.
[[underline]] White helmets [[/underline]] and [[underline]] white duck
[[/underline]] suits everywhere and worn by everybody in every variation
In afternoon noted some breeze. Thermometer in my room varies from
80°F to
150
[[underline]] 90°F but it feels hotter [[/underline]] on account of
[[underline]] humidity [[/underline]] and lack of breeze. Afternoon good
breeze brings relief. I see no insects and no mosquitoes except
[[underline]] ants. [[/underline]] This is the dry and hottest season.
[[underline]] Best time is January [[/underline]] February, as in Southern
India Evening [[underline]] Ricksaw [[/underline]] took me thru streets.
[[underline]] Chinese quarter [[/underline]] same Chinese shops same
[[underline]] crowded, same smells [[/underline]] but streets larger and
very much better than in Canton or in Shanghai. Stepped in an
Annamite Theatre. Drama going on. Only few people because a circus
is competing nearby. [[underline]] An Annamite [[/underline]] who speaks
French [[underline]] asks me to sit near him and explains the play.
[[/underline]] Annamite music = xylophone
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
151
and box like flat string instruments, ^[[half clad]] children of actors
playing in wings of the stage or running about in front. [[left margin]]
"Subject" [[/left margin]] "Trouble between a king and his wife because
latter finds he has a paramour ^[[a paramour]] and Kings father gives
him a lecture etc. All dressed in multicolored, silk embroidered
costumes, gilded and glittering; Language [[underline]] falsetto,
[[/underline]] falsetto singing etc. similar to Chinese Theatre but not so
noisy.
March. 19. Went to visit [[underline]] Mr. Kirkby [[/underline]] manager of
[[underline]] Standard Oil Co [[/underline]] who gives me much practical
information. Visit to American Consul Mr. Cookingham, a young man
recently arrived here from Algiers, [[strikethrough]] I w [[/strikethrough]]
nicely housed
152
in one of the pleasant shaded gardenlike streets. Has cable that
everything is well. Then to Tourist Bureau. Mr Henri Blaquiere who was
^[[was]] formerly ^[[a]] functionnaire and now runs this bureau. Was a
professeur "de l'amerguement moyen". He only speaks French. There is
an Englishman from India whose name is [[underline]] Phillips,
[[/underline]] who attends to the English part. Met there a [[underline]]
Captain Toy [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] f [[/strikethrough]] (field
Artillery, U.S. Army) stationed in Phillipines who had come over in
[[underline]] a Danish Freight steamer [[/underline]] and says he enjoyed
trip immensely. Good cabin, good food, interesting captain of the ship
etc. [[strikethrough]] Wants to [[/strikthrough]] Came
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
153
to shoot a tiger is going up to Dalat; which is the favorite spot for big
game hunters. Accessible easily by one days train from Saigon then
motor bus. Bungalow there to stay. [[underline]] Blaquieres [[/underline]]
is [[underline]] laying out a tour for me. [[/underline]] Am to late for taking
boat to [[strikethrough]] Pnom [[/strikethrough]] Siam so must stay 17
days.
At [[underline]] Continental hotel [[/underline]] met a young American
[[underline]] Giant [[/underline]] whose job it is to collect specimens for
[[underline]] New York Museum of Natural history. [[/underline]] There is
another young chap who just arrived from [[underline]] tiger hunting in
Malaysia [[/underline]] or [[underline]] Siam [[/underline]] and who is
going to join [[underline]] Toy [[/underline]] and the other young man.
While I am
154
there a [[underline]] soldier brings me a letter [[/underline]] from Dr.
Cognacy, [[underline]] Gouverneur-General of Indo-China, offering me
his motor car to visit interesting parts of the town [[/underline]] and
neighborhood etc.
[[underline]] March 20. [[/underline]] I notice that all these [[underline]]
Annamite waiters, [[/underline]] in clean white suits are all [[underline]]
barefooted. [[/underline]] This is much [[underline]] more sensible than
[[/underline]] to compel them to wear, hot clumsy ill fitting [[underline]]
shoes. [[/underline]]
[[underline]] Blaquieres [[/underline]] has laid out a program for me
including hotels, automobiles, driver etc. which will last until my
departure from [[underline]] Kep [[/underline]] to [[underline]] Siam
[[/underline]] and which costs me [[underline]] 1100 piastres
[[/underline]] a rather steep sum of money but I imagine that
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
155
it is on account of the private rental of a motor car.
Went to visit the [[underline]] Gouverneur General [[/underline]] in his
palace Warmly received, told him I had already hired a motor car, but
thanked him. He offered me to arrange a [[underline]] tiger hunt
[[/underline]] for me at Dalat if I could stay a few days longer so as to
issue ^[[issue]] the [[underline]] necessary orders [[/underline]] for the
[[underline]] preparations [[/underline]] to provide me with the necessary
men and outfit Told him at present was more interested in mosquitokilling than in tigers.
The [[underline]] Annamite [[/underline]] in their shops houses and
quarters and streets are [[underline]] decidedly less crowded
[[/underline]] and more reserved
156
than the [[underline]] Chinese [[/underline]] and less dirty.
At 2 P.M made flying motor-trip [[strikethrough]] th [[/strikethrough]] with
[[underline]] Blaquieres [[/underline]] thru [[underline]] neighboring
country [[/underline]] flat and [[underline]] well cultivated. Excellent
roads. What a difference with neighorhood of Canton! [[/underline]]
Rice culture, but everything dry now except in many canals and creeks,
this annamite chauffeur is as most of them [[underline]] barefooted
[[/underline]] but wears a [[underline]] helmet. [[/underline]] Annamite
[[underline]] graves [[/underline]] everywhere, all badly neglected
[[strikethrough]] and 2 [[/strikethrough]] cement like low structures. Many
house [[strikethrough]] boats on river [[/strkethrough]] boat ^[[&]]
sampans on river; some with sail, others simply
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
157
rowed. Same general type. [[underline]] Hulls [[/underline]] are
[[underline]] well shaped [[/underline]] of the [[underline]] double ender
type. [[/underline]] Villages have their meeting place where Annamites
come together to discuss current matters. Also public open [[underline]]
rest houses [[/underline]] simply roof over flat wood floor on which,
[[underline]] bed mat [[/underline]] is spread. No walls, everything open,
wood supported by posts of hard wood. [[strikethrough]] a
[[/strikethrough]] Also [[underline]] village market simply big roof.
[[/underline]] Fish, vegetables, meat, open air restaurants etc. etc All
[[underline]] quiet well behaved. [[/underline]] Road winding thru wooded
parts amongst little farms all much [[underline]] better looking than
[[/underline]] those I saw near [[underline]] Canton. [[/underline]]
Annamites [[strikethrough]] have [[/strikethrough]]
158
with long light black silk overshirts, slitted on both sides. I walk with
[[underline]] Blaquieres [[/underline]] in one of the side-roads/ every
[[underline]] Annamite salutes us [[/underline]] others [[underline]] bow
[[\underline]] and [[strikethrough]] pull sh [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]]
fold both hands together [[/underline]] as a salutation. [[underline]]
Blaquiere [[/underline]] says it is [[underline]] my red-rosette [[/underline]]
which does it. There is a village meeting in progress in one of the public
gathering bungalows and our arrival stops proceedings. [[underline]]
Low bowing [[/underline]] everywhere. [[underline]] No soldiers, nor
policemen [[/underline]] everything seems quiet peaceful, orderly and
well behaved and the men show dignified politeness. [[underline]]
Women do [[/underline]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
159
[[underline]] not salute. [[/underline]] Takes me to a village art school
where young boys are at work; modelling clay wheel they burn in small
and simple [[underline]] kilns [[/underline]] fired with hard-wood charcoal,
others cast [[underline]] bronze pieces [[/underline]] from wax molds. B.
says aim is to revive their artistic taste of formerly according to their own
lines
Saw some excellent pottery and some good bronze castings. All this is
[[underline]] incomparably more impressive [[/underline]] and shows far
[[underline]] superior [[/underline]] culture [[underline]] than in Jamaica
or Cuba or our Negro settlements. Older culture and better race.
[[/underline]] Men have [[underline]] kind expression [[/underline]] but
look somewhat queer at first with their moustaches and [[strikethrough]]
kn [[/strikethrough]] hair knotted into
160
a chignon [[underline]] just as their women. [[/underline]] Yesterday
noticed from the open door of my room a woman in a nearby yard, doing
up her hair, and it [[underline]] was so long that when combed out it
trailed on the floor. [[/underline]] No wonder [[underline]] China was and
still is the great supplier of human hair. [[/underline]] On the sign above
the shop of a Chetty - Money changer and money lender I notice the
following family name. K.M. Mougamadonsoultane
[[underline]] March 21. [[/underline]] Went into an Annamite shop and
bought about [[underline]] 300 piastres [[/underline]] worth of
[[underline]] presents. [[/underline]] Their Annamite things look more
tasteful than those heavy Chinese articles.
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
161
Shop was very neat, one [[underline]] well mannered polite boy
[[/underline]] who spoke French was the only one, with whom I could
speak. I saw a small painting of an old man. He [[underline]] tells me he
was his grand-father a Mandarin. [[/underline]] Articles fill
[[strikethrough]] about [[/strikethrough]] 2 wooden cases Trouble began
when I had to have them shipped They had no idea how to ship to New
York.
Finally found an [[underline]] Annamite shipping office, [[/underline]] his
name is Vincent. He will forward to [[underline]] Singapore [[/underline]] I
to pay, freight and insurance until there, and his correspondent will
forward thence [[underline]] to New York. [[/underline]] Freight and
Insurance
[[left margin]] [[underline]] Note: [[/underline]] Most of these articles are
now in my Florida home 1939 [[/left margin]]
162
there to be paid on arrival.
Annamite [[underline]] Pagodas much better kept than any of the
Chinese Pagodas [[/underline]] I have seen in Canton.
[[underline]] Blaquieres [[/underline]] drove me to [[underline]] Cholon,
[[/underline]] the Chinese town near [[underline]] Saigon. [[/underline]]
The [[underline]] Chinese here are not so dirty [[/underline]] as they are
in Shangai or Canton Streets are [[underline]] wider and straight
[[/underline]] and kept under supervision of Bureau of health
"Bonzes" ^[[(Priests)]] in the Chinese Pagodas are good natured,
ordinary looking chaps. They all look half-washed and their gray half
washed clothing bare feet and shaven head make them look like
coolies. Nothing
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
163
fanatical about them; [[strikethrough]] nor as [[/strikethrough]] very
different from those Arabs. They seem [[underline]] good natured chaps
rather unconcerned on what one does. [[/underline]] ready to engage in
conversation, ready to [[underline]] accept or give a cigarettes,
[[/underline]] or sell a few "Joss sticks", or hand you the sticks and
blocks of wood with which people play and [[underline]] gamble
[[/underline]] with their goods. I see several [[underline]] women
[[/underline]] devoutly [[underline]] praying. Blaquiere [[/underline]] says
there are more than usual, and there must be sickness in the family.
This together with the fact that we saw a little paper toy ship in the river;
which [[underline]] is intended to be set afire as a [[/underline]]
164
[[underline]] preventative against Cholera, [[/underline]] makes him
wonder whether there is more Cholera in town. B. says [[underline]]
Cholera is endemic [[/underline]] to a lesser or greater degree amongst
these Chinese but [[underline]] seldom white people catch it.
[[/underline]]
[[strikethrough]] This evening [[/strikethrough]] I dislike to leave this
cheerful restaurant of the Rotonde where I began to get acquainted.
Alexander Powell is all wrong when he speaks of [[underline]] excessive
drinking in Saigon. I saw none of it, [[/underline]] perhaps his friends and
he did. All these [[underline]] Frenchmen, [[/underline]] married and
unmarried, [[underline]] live economically, [[/underline]] attend to their
business and are
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
165
very moderate in their drinking; imcomparably better than Americans,
Britishers or other Northern people. I have not seen a single drunken
man while I was here.
[[left margin]] Pnom-Penh [[/left margin]]
The boat for [[underline]] Pnom- [[/strikethrough]] Peh [[/strikethrough]]
Penh, [[/underline]] a little freight steamer lies just across the street. I
have a little cabin with fan and electric light to myself. It left at 10 A.M.
There are a number of steerage passengers Chinese, Annamites,
Cambodyans, two Chetties etc.
Only 2 other cabin passengers.
[[underline]] March 22 - Sunday. [[/underline]]
Little [[underline]] steamer [[/underline]] is called [[strikethrough]] Louis
Rouf [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] "Louis Rueff". [[/underline]] Service
Chinese or Annamites. Cheerful skeleton-like steward who attends to
smoking room and meals and speak a few words of French.
166
My two other travelling companions are 2 young men both born in
[[underline]] Pondicherry in India, [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] near
[[/strikethrough]] a French Colony near Madras One is Hindustanese,
short and fat and ^[[dark brown]] smiling and speaks good French is
about 20 years old and is some kind of town [[underline]] "fonctionnaire",
[[/underline]] commis probably in the engineering department. Very good
natured and smiling and a Roman Catholic The other [[underline]]
George Du Moulin, [[/underline]] is as white as anybody, looks entirely
as a [[underline]] Frenchman or North Italian, [[/underline]] with much
swagger. Has been in the war and in other French Colonies like to talk
about it and is a sergeant in the [[underline]] Police [[/underline]] Force.
His French is not so good but he speaks 3 or 4 words of English which
he has picked up during
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
167
the war. Both are travelling "aux frais de l'administration" and are
astonished that I should have to pay. The country thru which we pass is
well cultivated and a succession of [[underline]] rice fields and coconut
[[/underline]] and Orech palms. with here and there a [[underline]] few
huts, [[/underline]] or villages. Numerous [[underline]] sampans
[[/underline]] and ^[[small]] [[underline]] sailboats [[/underline]]
everywhere. Fishing nets, fish traps etc., a characteristic landscape of
the settled Far East.
Boat stops at many small villages. Captain is a taciturn blond haired
blue-eyed chap. - [[underline]] probably Breton [[/underline]] but nothing
cheerful nor inviting about him. An Annamite and a [[underline]]
Cambodgeon in sarong, [[/underline]] are his [[strikethrough]] 1st
[[/strikethrough]] 2d and third officers. He cries his command in
[[underline]] French [[/underline]] and his assistants repeat them
168
in Annamite ^[[in Chignon, knotted hair.]] or Cambodyeon. Not a word
superfluous is said nor heard and the trio is a quiet one. The brown men
look steady and serious and do not talk together.
We stop at [[underline]] Mytho [[/underline]] a town at the end of a little
R.R from [[underline]] Saigon. [[/underline]] A well built [[strikethrough]]
stell [[/strikethrough]] little steel pier and wharf [[underline]]
Embankments [[/underline]] of the river [[underline]] well made of stone,
[[/underline]] pretty shaded small avenue nearby, and gardens of private
houses Well trimmed hedges. All very neat and clean. While
[[underline]] Annamites [[/underline]] are [[underline]] unloading some
Sampans [[/underline]] into our steamer, [[underline]] walked to the
town. [[/underline]] Same Chinese shops, but [[underline]] streets
[[/underline]] are [[underline]] wide. [[/underline]] Same Bananas, OrecPalms, Coconuts etc.
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
169
Varda of bethel leaves for chewing together with some lime pastel. The
lime is tinted pink. Chewing together with [[strikethrough]] arec
[[/strikethrough]] slices of Orech nuts. Gives all these people
[[underline]] swollen lips [[/underline]] and [[underline]] mouth, black
teeth [[/underline]] and a [[underline]] red saliva which they spit
[[/underline]] out on the floor or in spittoons and which looks like
[[underline]] blood. [[/underline]] The bethel leaves and orech nuts one
sees offered for sale or transported everywhere. I cannot imagine
[[strikethrough]] how [[/strikethrough]] what fun they can find in it. It
certainly makes their mouth look hideous [[underline]] Mytho
[[/underline]] is a little town about 10000 ^[[habitants]] and has a lycee or
[[underline]] college [[/underline]] as they call it here. Some young
[[underline]] Annamites [[/underline]] about 14-16 years old, in white
suits with the insignia of the lycee come aboard and I start questioning
them. They are taught French
170
Arithmetic, history and some elementary courses. - They also are
[[underline]] astonished I should travel at my own expense [[/underline]]
and [[underline]] not "aux frais de l'administration". [[/underline]] ^[[Most]]
all these steamer lines, big and small in these countries are subsidized
by their respective Governements [[strikethrough]] unless they are and
[[/strikethrough]] ^[[but]] we in the U.S [[strikethrough]] make
[[/strikethrough]] imagine that the Shipping Board subsidies are an
exception. The college boys were polite well behaved; eagerly
interested to hear of [[underline]] New York [[/underline]] and the U.S.
They tell me the lowest temperature in Mytho in winter is 22°C
[[underline]] (66°F [[/underline]] Everywhere I see [[underline]] water
Buffalo, [[/underline]] which is the standard cattle They look gray and
muddy and like to wade or wallow
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
171
in the mud or the river. Cultivated land alternates with patches of jungle.
- [[underline]] Cambodia [[/underline]] is [[underline]] much wilder and
less settled. [[/underline]] Along the water edge, white and grayish blue
cranes, and other birds some of beautiful plumage. King-fisher with
exceptionally beautiful light blue feathers. - which are worked by chinese
or annamites [[underline]] into ornaments, [[/underline]] in combination
with [[underline]] gold, [[strikethrough]] or [[/strikethrough]] silver
[[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] settings [[/strikethrough]] or brass settings
and which [[strikethrough]] appear [[/strikethrough]] look like blue
enamel Temperature in my cabin = 86°F. The sails here [[strikethrough]]
are fa [[/strikethrough]] are the simplest fore and aft type I have seen
and probably the origin of that type. They have no jawed gaff but instead
a [[underline]] yard much longer than the mast [[/underline]] and this
yard which carries its
172
peak very high. above the truck of the mast has the advantage of
[[underline]] catching any wind above the banks [[/underline]] or the
[[underline]] top of the trees [[/underline]] where the foot of the
[[underline]] sail has less occasion to catch the wind. [[/underline]]
[[drawing of boat]]
The yard is hoisted by one halyard corresponding to the usual throat
halyard of our sails The lower end of the yard is attached toward the foot
of the mast, thus relieving the thrust on the upper part of the mast which
a jaw gives to our usual rig. They sail pretty close to the wind. In the
middle there is a vaulted mat-roof covering which acts as shelter for
sleeping etc. and the foot of the sail is high enough
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
173
to clear that roof. So that after all it is mainly the upper part of the sail
that counts. Towards the bow and at the stern [[underline]] stand the
usual posts on which are lashed the bow and stern [[/underline]] oars,
which are handled by men and women in a standing position looking
forward towards the bow. - a very familiar sight everywhere. The
[[strikethrough]] slant [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] upwards slanting
bow [[/underline]] and [[underline]] stern, [[/underline]] makes good
standing ground for [[underline]] barefeeted oarsmen. [[/underline]]
[[underline]] March 23. [[/underline]] Arrival at [[underline]] Pnom Penh.
[[/underline]] Water in the [[underline]] Mekong is so low [[/underline]]
that we cannot get to the wharf which is on the City shire. so we drop
anchor and at 6 AM, a steam launch (they call it a sampan) carries all
passengers
174
I see now what a [[underline]] variegated lot of steerage passengers we
have been carrying. [[/underline]] Representatives of [[underline]] every
color [[/underline]] and race. A few dignified [[underline]] notably
[[/underline]] of [[underline]] Annamites [[/underline]] in their long slender
[[strikethrough]] silk [[/strikethrough]] black light silk overshirts. [[underline]] Straight-haired wild eyed, Cambodgian [[/underline]]
women, barefooted and bare to the knees, the upper legs covered with
a sort of [[underline]] improvised knicker bockers [[\underline]] called
[[underline]] "framing" [[/underline]] and obtained by [[strikethrough]] tat
[[/strikethrough]] winding a square piece of [[underline]] bright cotton
[[/underline]] or silk [[underline]] around the waist [[/underline]] then
twisting the forepart, passing it between the legs and tyeing it of under
the waist band. Their shoulders and [[underline]] arms are bare,
[[/underline]] so is their [[underline]] back; [[/underline]] but by means of
a strip of fabric their [[underline]] breasts [[/underline]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
175
are [[underline]] just hidden. [[/underline]] Most of them have
[[underline]] black teeth [[/underline]] and their mouth is [[underline]]
bethel- [[/underline]] Orech stained. Their [[underline]] bushy straight
black hair, stands up [[/underline]] and is combed back and shoots up
way below in the neck. [[underline]] Difficult to distinguish men from
women [[/underline]] unless one looks at their bare back or hidden
breasts.
There are also several [[underline]] yellow robed bonzes, shaven head
shaven eyebrows [[\underline]] makes them look rogueish as if they had
escaped from Sing-Sing. Barefooted, bareheaded they [[underline]]
carry [[/underline]] however [[underline]] an umbrella. [[/underline]] Also
a [[underline]] woven mat, [[/underline]] in a roll, on which they sleep,
and a [[underline]] bowl [[/underline]] in which to put [[underline]] rice or
other [[/underline]] food which they beg for and which is given to
176
them in great piety by the people. They are always on the walk from
one wat or pagoda to the other, where they spent the night. Usually a
[[underline]] bonze is followed by a little bonze [[\underline]] also
dressed and shaved, who carries the umbrella and rice pot for the elder
and follows him a few paces behind. Is called [[underline]] [[?nem]] (?);
[[\underline]] the French call him "bonzillone". [[underline]]
Cambodgians look solemn, or sullen, no smile. [[\underline]] Brown or
almost as black as a negro, but straight hair and face more resembling
that of white races. Some have [[underline]] moustaches. [[\underline]]
Their shape of head and way they wear their hair and facial expression
reminds one of that statue [[underline]] "The dying [[\underline]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
177
[[underline]] Gaul" [[\underline]] which I saw in the Museum of Naples or
Rome. [[underline]] Sarongs [[\underline]] become more common here
than in Saigon. It feels [[underline]] very warm [[\underline]] and
[[underline]] sultry [[\underline]] due to an overhanging slight [[underline]]
fog [[\underline]] which produces depressing atmosphere. Much
[[underline]] less people [[\underline]] here [[underline]] speak French
than in Saigon. [[\underline]] Glistening gilded pointed [[underline]]
steeples [[\underline]] of Palace and [[underline]] "Wats". [[\underline]]
[[underline]] Hotel [[\underline]] stands opposite landing and with its
shaded Avenue and shaded terrace with little tables looks better than
expected. At high water the boat lands just opposite the hotel. My
[[underline]] room [[\underline]] has a [[underline]] large mosquito-net
[[\underline]] covered bed.
178
One part has a depressed cement floor and [[underline]] shower and tap
for bathing. [[\underline]] The water runs away to the gutter, so one can
shower and splash himself as much as needed. There is also a
[[underline]] noisy electric [[\underline]] fan - [[underline]] French
manufacture. [[\underline]] W.C.s are separate and acceptable.
[[underline]] Place is run by a Greek, Manouris. [[\underline]] There is
another hotel, smaller a block apart from this. Mr. [[underline]] Emon,
[[\underline]] keeper of local garage, (a [[underline]] Frenchman)
[[\underline]] was at the landing to tell me that he had car and driver
ready for me. The car is a [[underline]] "Citroen [[\underline]] de Luxe".
A small car with two seats, barely long enough to carry 2 small valises
while travelling. The driver is an [[underline]] Annamite [[\underline]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
179
boy of 23. [[underline]] White helmetted, [[\underline]] white duck suit
and [[underline]] bare-footed [[\underline]] as all are here. He wears his
[[underline]] white uniform [[\underline]] directly on [[underline]] his
naked body [[\underline]] without the bother of superfluous shirts nor
showers. When he feels to hot, [[underline]] he sheds his jacket, then
his trousers, last of all his helmet, [[\underline]] then [[underline]] wraps a
sarong [[\underline]] around his waist. Very simple trick. [[underline]]
Mekong River [[\underline]] is low and the high well built sloping
embankments are built stepwise. Almost naked coolies strong muscled
and brown glistening bodies [[underline]] carry heavy loads on bamboo
poles [[\underline]] slung over shoulders from steamers or sampans to
the high terrace. Hard work in burning sun but they do it [[underline]]
cheerfully while singing a low chanting [[\underline]]
180
so as to keep in step. Visited the new [[underline]] Museum "Musee
d'Arts du Cambodge" [[\underline]] directed by a Frenchman. Statues
and ornaments, stone clay or bronze old and new [[underline]] mostly
Budha [[\underline]] and more [[underline]] Budha [[\underline]] or
[[underline]] Viznu [[\underline]] and, [[underline]] Shiva [[\underline]]
arms etc. Also [[underline]] Ecole d'Arts [[\underline]] where
Cambodgian boys are taught Cambodgian design and artwork. also
some adults mostly same Cambodge types of work and ornaments or
personages [[underline]] represented today by the dancing girls of the
old King. [[\underline]] Drive around town Place of Mr. [[underline]]
Baudouin, Resident superieur du Cambodge, [[\underline]] representing
the French Governement[[sic]]. Next to his private house is [[underline]]
his office building [[\underline]] and his [[underline]] white fonctionnaires
[[\underline]] together with [[underline]] Annamite [[\underline]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
181
and Cambodgians employees.
Well [[underline]] shaded Avenues [[\underline]] around town, principally
along river. It is hot but [[underline]] dryer [[\underline]] than [[underline]]
in Saigon, [[\underline]] and [[underline]] more breeze [[\underline]] after
fog has disappeared. Following days there was no fog and feeling of
[[underline]] extreme sultriness did not recur. [[\underline]] A row of
[[underline]] Annamites [[\underline]] with [[underline]] Ricksaws
[[\underline]] before hotel. Only [[underline]] wear very short white
cotton trousers, [[\underline]] and [[underline]] conical palm hat,
[[\underline]] and are barefooted
[[underline]] Money [[\underline]] same [[underline]] over all Indo-China
1 piastre [[\underline]] = about 55 Am. [[underline]] cents [[\underline]]
and divided in 100 cents Money does not follow fluctuation of French
franc which today is very low; 1 franc = 5 Am. Cents. [[underline]] Phom
Penh is said [[\underline]] to have 60000 inhabitants, amongst which
[[underline]] few whites [[\underline]] and many Chinese and Annamites
182
Am told [[underline]] all Cambodge [[/underline]] only counts about
[[underline]] 1 [[/underline]] or [[underline]] 2 millions [[/underline]]
inhabitants. [[underline]] Market [[/underline]] and stalls are very
[[underline]] dirty, smelly [[/underline]] and [[underline]] crowded
[[/underline]] Usual mixture of [[underline]] Chinese vendors,
[[/underline]] Annamites, open air kitchens cooking, fish, meat, dried
articles and what not. Am told [[underline]] Bubonic plague, cholera,
[[/underline]] and small pox are [[underline]] endemic amongst natives
[[/underline]] but occur more seldom amongst [[underline]] whites.
[[/underline]] The latter suffer more of [[underline]] malaria, dissentary,
[[/underline]] & [[underline]] consumption. [[/underline]] At hotel good
table d'hote was well served, in spacious high ceiled room. Good music
of a quatroon 3 times a week. There is also [[underline]] an Opera
[[/underline]] troupe in town [[underline]] plays twice [[/underline]] a
week. [[underline]] Thais [[/underline]] etc. also [[strikethrough]] comedy
[[/strikethrough]] dramatic troupe:, Tosca etc Mostly [[underline]] all
[[strikethrough]] pas [[/strikethrough]] men [[/underline]] at hotel are
[[underline]] fonctionnaires, [[/underline]] and a few [[underline]] army
men. [[/underline]] All [[underline]] uniformly [[/underline]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
183
[[underline]] dressed [[/underline]] in [[underline]] white suit [[/underline]]
and a white [[underline]] helmet. [[/underline]] Few officers and I see no
soldiers except a few [[strikethrough]] some [[/strikethrough]] annamite
or cambodyen rural policemen. [[underline]] So few [[/underline]] that I
[[underline]] conclude [[/underline]] there is [[underline]] little
[[/underline]] or [[underline]] no trouble [[/underline]] to keep order here
as in Saigon. Went to visit [[underline]] Monsieur Baudoin, [[/underline]]
"Resident Superieur", who received me very kindly and invited me for
lunch or dinner to morrow at his house he called up the [[underline]]
Prime-Minister of the King of Cambodge, [[/underline]] so that I could
visit the palace same afternoon I went there [[underline]] Prime-Minister
received [[/underline]] me [[underline]] very cordially, [[/underline]]
speaks [[underline]] good French [[/underline]] for a Cambodgean and
called [[underline]] one [[/underline]] of the [[underline]] younger princes
[[/underline]] to be my guide thru the palace. The latter was a young
man about twenty very polite dressed in the usual
184
white suit but wearing a soft broad brimmed felt hat and spoke French
and took me thru the different buildings and temples of the Palace
enclosure. Succession of [[underline]] Barbaric splendor, gold
[[/underline]] and [[underline]] silver [[/underline]] and ornamentations
predominating, and [[underline]] Budhas [[/underline]] and [[underline]]
more Budhas, [[/underline]] one [[underline]] life-size [[/underline]] in
[[underline]] solid gold, [[/underline]] and in one of the buildings the
whole large [[underline]] floor [[/underline]] made of [[underline]] solid
square silver tiles. [[/underline]] Walls decorated with wall paintings
describing story of [[underline]] Budha [[/underline]] or stories of
[[underline]] wars [[/underline]] etc, some very old but [[underline]] well
preserved. Buildings [[/underline]] have the characteristic [[underline]]
curved roof- [[/underline]] free ends, [[underline]] glistening with gilt
[[/underline]] in the sunshine, amidst other buildings terminating in sharp
high conical structures with glistening points. In all these
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
185
buildings, [[underline]] very valuable [[/underline]] articles [[underline]]
were left exposed [[/underline]] or [[underline]] in unprotected frail, thin
[[/underline]] glass cases only locked with strips of paper bearing the
signature of the official who put them on Royal treasures, royal crowns
and jewelry all thus exposed [[strikethrough]] in poorly [[/strikethrough]]
in buildings with [[underline]] clumsy wooden [[/underline]] doors and
[[underline]] ditto locks [[/underline]] and [[underline]] only guarded by
the attendants bare footed, half naked [[/underline]] and [[underline]]
bareheaded, [[/underline]] who [[underline]] squat [[/underline]] on the
floor and [[underline]] very few [[/underline]] in number. [[underline]]
Good natured, casual [[/underline]] in their ways, simple and ready to
enter into conversation with the young prince. [[strikethrough]] I notice
[[/strikethrough]] The [[underline]] Prince [[/underline]] pointed me out
some of [[underline]] the dancing girls of the King [[/underline]] (Sisowalh
II?) who traversed the court from one building to another. They look
serious and demure, short hair, and
186
[[strikethrough]] panung [[/strikethrough]] ^[[Panung]]
Panung and [[underline]] barelegged, barefooted, [[\underline]] seem
about 12 or 16 years old and I would have taken them for young boys
except for [[underline]] their bare back and covered breasts.
[[/underline]] They have to [[underline]] rehearse every day, [[/underline]]
and are told to be quite occupied at this. Some swarty maidens in half
French dresses leave one of the buildings and nod to the Prince while
stepping in a rather worn little victoria drawn by rather indifferent
[[underline]] diminutive poneys, [[/underline]] which are the only horses
here. The prince tells me they are [[underline]] princesses. [[/underline]]
I should not have [[strikethrough]] tan [[/strikethrough]] known it, if he
had not told me. Then the Royal [[underline]] "white" elephants.
[[/underline]] They are [[underline]] not white [[/underline]]
[[strikethrough]] and [[/strikethrough]] they are [[underline]] Albinos
[[/underline]] which shows on their eyes and a few of the hairs near
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
187
their tails. They look like any elephants one sees in the Zoo or in a
circus.
One of the women, I [[underline]] do not [[/underline]] know whether
[[underline]] she was a princess or not, fed them a few bunches
[[/underline]] of grass, all smiling and good naturedly as if we were in a
zoo
[[underline]] March 24 [[/underline]] On the road before hotel pass
continually, bicycles ridden by every kind of native or Frenchman. Ricksaws, tooting small motor cars mostly French make and an
occasional Ford. and a queer [[underline]] box like conveyance with side
windows [[/underline]] on small [[underline]] wheels [[/underline]] and
driven by [[underline]] ridiculously small poneys. [[/underline]] They are
mostly patronized by natives, Chinamen or Annamites and springless,
rattle along the road. After 5 P.M some more pretentious
small "victorias" with small poneys pass occasionally. I wired to Hotel
[[underline]] Oriental [[/underline]] in [[underline]] Bangkok [[/underline]]
reserving [[underline]] best [[/underline]] room. Also [[underline]] wired to
New York [[/underline]] date of my arrival in [[underline]] Bangkok
[[/underline]] and to address American Consulate: cost of cable about 1
[[underline]] Dollar [[/underline]] gold [[underline]] a word, [[/underline]]
fast rate. To morrow theatre plays Tosca and Saturday: Thais. Prices
best seats 2.50 piastres.
In my room 2 or 3 [[underline]] lizzards [[/underline]] calling [[underline]]
chick-chick, [[/underline]] crawl over the walls and hunted mosquitoes
and flies; One sees them everywhere and one gets soon accustomed to
them. I see few mosquitoes and few flies - an occasional [[underline]]
large cockroach, [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] and [[/strikethrough]] but
more frequently [[underline]] ants. [[/underline]] Bright morning, 80°F.
Feel very comfortable after shower
[[left margin]] Slept naked and kept fan blowing all night. [[/left margin]]
Later on temperature in room
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
rises to [[underline]] 85°F [[/underline]]
Lunch at the house of Mr [[underline]] Baudoin, [[/underline]] two other
guests there, an architect who wears the ribbon of the Legion d'Honeur,
and another Frenchman also the officier d'ordornance of the resident
with his office braids over his shoulder.
Otherwise dinner very informal excellent food; well served and
interesting animated conversation.
Afternoon motored to [[underline]] Oudong [[/underline]] along the river.
Excellent road but long hot drive to see [[underline]] an old barnlike
pagoda [[/underline]] situated on a hill with [[underline]] endless steps
[[/underline]] which I had to climb in [[underline]] the blazing sun.
[[/underline]] In the pagoda [[underline]] nothing [[/underline]] but an
[[underline]] enormous [[/underline]] sitting gilded [[underline]] budha,
[[/underline]] and [[underline]] the floor tiles covered with the
[[/underline]]
188
little soft [[underline]] brown balls [[/underline]] the [[underline]]
excrements [[/underline]] of hundreds of [[underline]] birds [[/underline]]
which fly in and out the building. between the huge pillars which support
the roof. Returning [[strikethrough]] home [[/strikethrough]] by the same
road felt very thirsty so stopped at [[strikethrough]] the shop
[[/strikethrough]] one of the Chinese shops found a lone 1/2 bottle of
champagne which seemed forgotten there and which I bought for 60
cents or about 35 ^[[c]] of our America money. It tasted excellent altho it
was [[underline]] warm [[/underline]] and [[strikethrough]] froated
[[/strikethrough]] foamed much in the large glass. I noticed many
[[underline]] buffalo-teams, [[/underline]] the wagon carrying an
[[underline]] arched palm roof [[/underline]] similar to that of sampans.
Others have a [[strikethrough]] woven [[/strikethrough]] ^[[woven]]
miniature little house on them. (See photos)
[[underline]] March 25. [[/underline]] This is the day I am starting on
[[underline]] my motor cruise [[/underline]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
189
Should have left at 6:00 AM but [[underline]] Annamite [[/underline]] was
[[underline]] late [[/underline]] which made me nervous - as I have been
[[underline]] warned [[/underline]] by [[underline]] Baudoin [[/underline]]
and his guests that the Citroen may not prove fast enough or sturdy
enough to stand the racket. With my [[underline]] Annamite [[/underline]]
only understanding [[underline]] very few French [[/underline]] words and
not being able to talk Cambodgian I do not relish the possibility of
[[underline]] being stalled [[/underline]] on route or having an accident in
a wild - strange country far from my country and where nobody can
understand me This road to [[underline]] Angkor [[/underline]] is partially
new and is only [[strikethrough]] one [[/strikethrough]] used in the dry
season when access to the ruins is no longer possible thru the river and
the Lake by boat. In this season the Lake disappears almost entirely as
it acts as an overflow reservoir
190
of the waters during the rainy season. Annamite ("Mem" is his name)
finally turns up at 6.30 A.M. Roads are excellent and follow the river
until we pass a hand paddled flat ferry with which we cross at
[[underline]] Oudong [[/underline]] 7:50 AM. Then over a straight flat
road, raised as a dyke over the surrounding low lands. - a succession of
[[underline]] marshes [[/underline]] a few [[underline]] paddy-fields
[[/underline]] (rice) brushes and [[underline]] tall sugar palms which look
like tall palmettos [[/underline]] of [[underline]] Florida [[/underline]] and
the whole [[underline]] landscape reminds me [[/underline]] of the
[[underline]] Everglades. [[/underline]] It is [[underline]] burning hot.
[[/underline]] I notice rows of [[underline]] half naked Cambodgians
[[/underline]] armed with [[underline]] sharp steel spears, [[/underline]]
nets and baskets over their shoulders. Their brown bodies and glaring
black eyes together with their
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
191
glistening steel spears and long broad bladed sharp knives on bamboo
poles make me feel in strange surroundings while we hop along at 30
miles, honking and tooting to clear the road.
They [[underline]] catch the fish which remains in the pools after the
retreating waters. [[/underline]] In these muddy pools they either spear
them or scoop them with their bamboo woven scoops or nets. Some
[[underline]] fishes [[/underline]] are quite good size measuring
[[underline]] 2 and 2 1/2 feet [[/underline]] This fish seems to be long
lived and [[underline]] keeps alive in this hot sun [[/underline]] or mud
[[strikethrough]] dy water [[/strikethrough]] ^[[or sand]] [[underline]] for a
long [[/underline]] time. We pass 2 or three motor busses overcrowded
with natives and their bundle, every seat and even the bonnet occupied.
The [[underline]] bundles [[/underline]] on [[underline]] the roof
[[/underline]] and [[underline]] on top of [[/underline]] the bundles of a
[[underline]] few more passengers [[/underline]]
192
squatting or lying. Reminds me of the Motor busses of Morrocco. Now
and then a [[underline]] small touring car [[/underline]] with [[underline]] a
dozen [[/underline]] or [[underline]] more passengers packed
[[/underline]] in them or hanging [[underline]] on sides [[/underline]] or
sitting on running boards. [[underline]] Fords [[/underline]] carry the
largest [[underline]] number [[/underline]] of passengers.
At 11.A.M. we arrive at the New Bungalow of [[underline]] KomponyThom, [[/underline]] near a bridge which covers the river. There is a
settlement, mostly Chinese stores recently built. The [[underline]]
Bungalow is very comfortable. W.C.'s, shower, baths etc. [[/underline]]
Cool fresh and spacious looks more like a Club house. Altho' not yet in
operation White travellers can use it for lunch. [[underline]] So I eat my
lunch basket. [[/underline]] Found there another automobile party bound
for Ankor, which left our hotel at 5 AM this morning. [[underline]] Mr
Block [[/underline]] Pharmacien principal, and [[underline]] Mr. Blanc
[[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] of I [[/strikethrough]] Pharmacien at Hanoi
and their wives. They have motored all the way from [[underline]] Hanoi
[[/underline]] and report roads excellent. I leave them to their siesta and
proceed at 12M to gain time
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
193
[[underline]] Herons, [[/underline]] large & small white and some black
ones (large) with white neck.
[[underline]] Road excellent straight thru wood and jungle. [[/underline]]
Here and there huts. Also [[underline]] little shelters [[/underline]] on
[[underline]] stilts. [[/underline]] so as to watch [[underline]] the rice-field
[[/underline]] or [[underline]] cattle during [[/underline]] rainy season
when [[underline]] panthers [[/underline]] or [[underline]] elephants
[[/underline]] come around Noise and torches scare them away Many
large [[underline]] resin trees, [[/underline]] have a hole hacked in them;
in this, fire is made so as to [[underline]] liquefy the resin [[/underline]]
which collect in the hollow part below This [[underline]] resin
[[/underline]] used for [[underline]] making torches [[/underline]] by
impregnating fibre with it and wrapping it cylindrically [[underline]] in
palm leaves. [[/underline]] Also by [[underline]] dripping a stick
[[/underline]] in the [[underline]] resin furnishes a candle. [[/underline]]
Children, naked except silver bracelet around ankle. Men naked but for
short loin cloth. Road excellent and marked by posts every kilometer.
One stretch near Siam-Reap was being repaired. [[underline]] Siam
Reap cheerful village, [[/underline]] then further run to Bungalow.
[[underline]] Angkor Watt [[/underline]] in sight. Arrive at 3:30 P.M. made
320 kilometers since this morning, notwithstanding one puncture and
one stop for trouble with carburettor
[[back cover of journal]]
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Leo Baekeland Diary Volume 39, 1925

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