June - Eastern Iowa Pond Society

June. 2013 Issue
Find us on Facebook as:
Beneath the Surface
Eastern Iowa Pond Society
www.EIPS.org
In this newsletter:
Creature From the Black Lagoon? Read about Bog
May meeting info...….…..1
Filtration in this month’s addition of Pond Filters.
Meeting Minutes……….2&3
Info on Chicago Trip…….4
Night Bloomers...………..5
What’s in Your Pond..…….6
Membership form……….7
Bog Filtration…………..8-12
The Natural Pond……..13-14
Contact Information:
Find us on the web at:
www.EIPS.org or
on Facebook
President: Jo Hunerdosse –
319-364-6627
VP : Jeff Garner- 550-6893
Sec.: Stephanie Geers-363-2448
Tres.:Gary Hunerdosse364-6627
June 13th meeting: 6:00 PM
Dave and Joyce Thompson
1017-9th St. SE- Cedar Rapids
Speaker: Carol Sindelar– Other Fish for Your
Ponds.
June 22 meeting:
Kloubec’s Koi Farm 10:00 AM
1375 Baxter Ave. Amana, Ia
Tour of the facility.
Possible dinner afterwards in Amana.
Meeting Minutes for May 9th…
Meeting minutes for Thursday, May 9, 2013.
The meeting was held at the home of Jeff Sindelar with 18 present including new members Dave and
Joyce Thompson of Cedar Rapids.
Dave Schwarz of the Prairie States Mushroom Club spoke on fungus (mushrooms, molds) and shared
some remarkable photography of the varied specimens. The website for his group is iowamushroom.org
and he encourages us to go there for more photos and information.
Minutes from the previous meeting were shared and approved. Gary Hunerdosse, treasurer, gave a report. Membership is currently down and several longtime members seem to have not renewed. Gary will
send an email reminding them that they have not paid for 2013.
Bus tour- Jackie Allsup shared that enough people have expressed interest in the August bus tour to
Chicago that plans will continue. Interested persons are now asked to put down deposit money of at
least $40 per couple for reserving a bus. This trip will again be a joint venture between EIPS and the
Waterloo/Cedar Falls club. Dates are Friday Aug 16- Sunday Aug 18. Pick up/drop off sites and times
have not been determined. A check for the bus deposit will be sent from the EIPS treasury.
Pond Vacuum- Gary Hunerdosse shared that two members have used the vac. He has not gotten any
feedback yet. The vac will be demonstrated at the next meeting May 25.
Meeting hosts- Hosts are still needed for Sat. July 27, and Thurs., Aug 8. New members Dave and
Joyce Thompson offered to host the Thurs., June 13.
Brucemore- EIPS has had an information table at the Brucemore Lawn and Garden event for many
years. Tom Coyle has offered to manage the table this year. The all day event is Sat, Aug. 24.
Pond tour 2013- Member interest in a tour this year seems quite low. Discussion was held and it was decided to postpone this year's tour. There are sufficient funds in the treasury to get the club through 2013.
Some members have expressed interest in being on the tour for 2014.
May 25th meeting minutes….Meeting minutes for Thursday, May 9,
2013.
Meeting held at Gary/Jo Hunerdosse's house, 6PM
Called to order by President Jo Hunerdosse with 19 members in attendance.
Bus tour for the Aquascapes pond tour- Dates 8/16/13-8/18/13. Tentatively leaving Friday
around noon from Westdale Mall. Final route and itinerary to be determined. Jackie Allsup
would like deposits ($40/couple suggested) from those planning to attend.
The EIPS table at the Brucemore Lawn and Garden Show, Aug. 24, will be organized by Tom
Coyle. He will be asking for a couple more volunteers to help to assist him with set up and
hosting the table.
Meeting hosts- June 13 Dave Thompson, 1017 9th St SE, Cedar Rapids (blue house, near
Mercy Hospital). 6PM
June 22- either Kloubec's or Jeff Garner/Kerry Shaner.
July 23- either Jeff Garner/Kerry Shaner or Kloubec's.
August 8- Tom Coyle/Darryl Stout-Coyle.
Pond vacuum- Gary Hunerdosse gave a "dry land" demonstration of the pond vac due to
rainy weather. Reminder- it is housed at the Hunerdosse's and is available to member's for
$5 per rental, Gary's cell 560-7302.
Gary demonstrated how to run
the Pond Vac that the club
owns. Rainy weather kept the
demonstration inside.
The club now also has a small portable fish tank that could be used for
a QT tank or in case of emergency
to hold your fish. Hugh Albrecht
donated it to the club. Thanks,
Hugh!!
Do you have extra pond equipment
you could donate to our Equipment
Closet ?
Chicago here we come!!!
Plans are not all set yet, but we’re getting closer!!! We are filling in the blanks!!!
Friday: leaving Westdale Mall, Cedar Rapids(East Parking lot along Edgewood Rd) Time
TBA
Friday stopping at Koi Whisper’s Sanctuary
http://www.infraredlight.com/thekoiwhisperer.htm
Saturday: Breakfast at the hotel, board bus to go on tour
Aquascapes, Bartlett, IL Pond Tour, 10:00-5:00pm with a lunch stop someplace along the
way (lunch on your own dime)
Saturday night: TBA
Sunday: Returning home with stop at the Anderson Japanese Gardens in Rockford, IL.
It’s not too late to sign up, please call me, Jackie, 319-934-3665 or email
[email protected] Deposits are required. The more that sign up the less we all
pay!!! Approximately 110.00 pp pays for your bus, and admission into the Anderson
Gardens.
You must reserve your own hotel rooms for August 16 and 17th. Hilton Garden Inn in
St. Charles 1-630-584-0700 no later than 7/26/2013. Mention “Iowa Water Gardens
Tour” for our room rates and saved block. Rates are 99.00 a night, + tax. There is no
free breakfast with this room, but there is a restaurant on site. The Hilton has also
created our own personal web page through which we can reserve our rooms:
http://hiltongardeninn.hilton.com/en/gi/groups/personalized/C/CHISCGI-IWG20130816/index.jhtml
Info from the IWGS web site.
Add Night Blooming Waterlilies to Your Pond
For many water gardeners, aquatic plants are in-bloom during the busiest part of your day. So, if you don’t want to miss
out on your favorite waterlily moments, the addition of night
-blooming waterlilies can provide welcome beauty as you relax by the pond in the evening.
Night-bloomers begin to open later in the afternoon and can
maintain their bloom well into morning. The timing of nightbloomers allows the 9:00 to 5:00 crowd the opportunity to
derive maximal enjoyment out of their waterlilies. This advantage is magnified further with the use of Pond and Landscape LED Lights, which can extend your view of the nightbloomers until sunrise with ease.
Night-blooming tropical waterlilies are fragrant plants that
will bloom all summer long. They require at least five hours
of sun, and will generally over-winter in zones 8 through 11.
In northern climes, they need to be treated as annuals, or
you can bring them indoors during winter and re-plant in
your pond when spring rolls around.
Upkeep for night-blooming waterlilies is the same as daybloomers.
 Remove dying leaves
 Fertilize regularly
Divide as needed
A variety of night-blooming waterlilies are available for your pond. The “Red Flare” (bottom
photo) sends forth reddish-purple blooms supported upon
large bronze leaves. Similarly, the “Antares” blooms are dark
-red accompanied by leaves that turn green with age. The
“Texas Shell Pink” varies from white in the center to pink on
its outside petals, whereas the “Mrs. George C. Hitchcock” (top photo above) varies white and pink with the aid
of white streaks down the center of its pink petals. The
“Texas Shell Pink” is noted for a strong fragrance. The
“Wood’s White Knight,” “Trudy Slocum” (middle photo
above) and “Juno” all sport terrific white blooms for
nighttime enjoyment.
There are many reasons for adding night-blooming waterlilies to your water feature: if you want tropical waterlilies but
have an inconvenient schedule; if you want add to your nightscape; or, if you just want just
want to mix up your bloom timings. With so many different types to choose from, you’re sure
to find one that suits your taste.
What’s in Your Pond???
For Sale: Due to health reasons, we
have to get rid of our approx. 1000 gallon pond and filter, limestone rock, etc.
We would like $300.00 for everything.
It has a heavy duty rubberized liner. It
has a Sunterra pond bio-filter with UV
light. The only thing is the buyer has to
remove as we can not do it.
Thank You,
Sharon Rokes
319-296-2664
[email protected]
Wanted: A few free goldfish/shubunkins
in need of a good home. I have a couple
friends ponds that could use a little life.
Plus any extra water lilies you may be
separating. Thanks...
Jackie Allsup 319-934-3665
Eastern Iowa Pond Society, Inc.
Membership Application
To become a member of the Eastern Iowa Pond Society, Complete this form and mail
along with your dues to:
Eastern Iowa Pond Society
% Gary Hunerdosse
306 Red Fox Rd. SE
Cedar Rapids, IA 52403
————————————————————————————
___ New Membership ___ Renew Membership
Name: _______________________________________________________
Address: _____________________________________________________
Phone Number: ______________ E-mail Address: ____________________
Dues are $25.00 per calendar year per family. Make checks payable to Eastern Iowa
Pond Society, Inc. ALL newsletters can now be found on line at www. EIPS.org
Newsletters will NOT be mailed unless you notify us that you have
NO computer, so be sure your email is current and legible. Thank You.
YOUR EIPS GUIDE TO FILTRATION…...CONTINUED
This month I’m going to talk about the simplest and perhaps the most overlooked form
of pond filtration and that is the Bog. Bogs,
the image of a bog can sometimes conjure up
somewhat swampy unpleasant scenes, think
“Creature From the Black Lagoon”. Bog has
never been a particularly nice word and in
our language it can be used to describe sticky
hard to get out of, undesirable situations. “Hi honey, I can’t get home for dinner,
I‘m really bogged down with work:.
But what is a bog really? A place that is hard to move around in or get out
of? Well, ok, yes, I’ll give you that one; however bogs are nature’s water filters
purifying life giving and sustaining water. Bogs are areas of thick dense aquatic
plant growth, nature’s filters. Contaminated water can flow into a bog and
emerge clean and pure to sustain our planet.
To put a nice spin on a bog, we can also call them wetlands. Wetlands is a
pretty word for swamp, for bog, and people bend over backwards to protect our
wetlands, as they shoul be, but at the end of the day the word bog can be substituted for those areas, but it just ain’t perty.
So, how does my rambling relate to ponds? This is the Love your Pond Blog
after all isn’t it? Sure it is, and here is the connections; bogs, can be used to filter
ponds. A small scale bog can be constructed for a pond as a form of filtration and
they are incredibly effective! Bog filters for ponds are not a new idea, but they
are not a popular idea yet either with the general public; but among professional
pond builders bog filtration is coming into its own because of the undeniable
powerhouse of a filter they can be. Bog filters are constructed for ponds and
planted heavily with aquatic and emergent plants. The pond water is delivered
to the bottom of the bog filter and percolates UP through the gravel and plant
roots then returns to the pond, typically by way of a waterfall. This method is extremely effective at filtering pond water to amazing clarity while processing the
removing nutrients at very hig levels, returning to the pond beautifully clear and
naturally purified water. This is also a great way to feed your aquatic plants by
literally delivering nutrient rich water diretly to their root systems.
Plant growth in bog filter can be up to 400% faster than plants grown directly in the pond
(but, still use plants in your pond too) which will consume nutrients by the “teabag” method.
Bog filters are easy to maintain as well, typically needing service 2-3X annually, other than
plant pruning.
Ponds that utilize bog filtration also do not have green water issues and algae growth is
greatly reduced or eliminated. When it comes time to install, renovate, or upgrade your pond;
talk to your pond expert about installing a bog filter system for your pond. You will be happy
with the results!
If a gravel bog filter had a mission statement this is what it would be:
To create an environment that maximizes organic decomposition and nutrient absorption thus
starving the (always present) algae in the pond while looking gorgeous!
A Gravel Bog Filter can be constructed in any number of ways, examples of the most common configurations
can be found on site at Nelson Water Gardens. At the end of this handout you will find a walking tour of our
ponds that explains the following typical configurations of filters:
1. Partition: The filter is within the pond separated by a porous retaining wall.
2. Raised: The filter is built next to and higher than the pond; water flows back via a stream or spillway.
3. Border: A ledge 12” deep and as wide as it needs to be is constructed around the perimeter of the pond.
At the edge of the ledge a porous wall is built to retain the gravel.
4. Island: Created by building a porous retaining wall on all sides in the middle of the pond.
“Directions:
1. Follow the usual directions for building a liner pond. The size of the bog is determined by
pond surface area: 10- 30% of the pond surface area should make up the bog. If you plan to
stock a lot of fish or koi, go with a larger size.
2. Using Cinder Block, Stone, Bricks or any other stable building material, construct a dry
wall (no mortar used) to section off the bog filter from the rest of the pond. We recommend
using cinder blocks (painted black with exterior latex paint) and then “capping off” the
blocks with a decorative stone of your choice.
3. Page 2 illustrates burying the pipe line from the pump to the bog. However, you may
choose to lay flexible tubing in the bottom of the pond. Just run the tubing through the lower
portion of the wall connecting the pump to the distribution pipes in the bog filter. Put a PVC
female adapter fitted with the appropriate sized hose barb fitting to receive the flex hose
from your pump.
4. Install the pump on the opposite side of the pond from where the bog filter is located. This
is to facilitate good circulation of water throughout the pond. Select a pump that will turn the
volume of the pond over every 1-2 hours. (You can go with a higher flow rate if you wish.)
5. Next, perforate the distribution pipe. The minimum pipe size recommended is 1 ½” diameter PVC to avoid the possibility of clogging. The pipe is perforated using a circular saw cutting
partially into the pipe, approximately 1/4 – 1/3 of the way through. Make your cuts perpendicular to the flow of water through the pipe, and space them about 1inch apart down the entire length of the pipe. The spacing of the slots is an estimate, if there is a long run of pipe;
space the holes slightly further apart.
6. Attach a vertical stand pipe at the end of each distribution pipe under the gravel. Cut this
pipe (now referred to as the “clean out pipe”) to discreetly rise just above the gravel bed.
Then attach a PVC Female Adapter (slip fitting on 1 end/threaded on other) to the clean out
pipe, and thread your cap into the adapter. Spray paint the cap and PVC adapter black or
brown and it will “disappear” from view.*
7. Next, lay the distribution pipe on top of the pond liner in the area partitioned off for the
bog filter. Be sure to point the perforations facing up. We have found that in some instances,
having the perforations facing down toward the liner can cause holes or tears in the liner
over time. Gravel bogs that are 2-3 feet in width can be fed by a single line of pipe. Wider areas require additional lines spaced 2’-3’ apart. This layout is similar to setting up a septic
drain field.
8. A cleanout pipe should be placed at the end of each distribution pipe.
9. Once you are satisfied with your piping layout and location of the clean out pipe(s), glue all
parts together.
10. Shovel 3/8” pea gravel into the Bog Filter area but only fill halfway (the rest of the gravel
will be added during the planting). Most gravel is not very clean, wash it as best you can before adding to the filter but be aware it will muddy up the pond, do not worry, it will clear up.
After all, that’s what the filter is designed to do! The construction is finished, now it’s time to
plant your bog. Directions on page 3.
* The under gravel pipes can be cleaned out by simply removing the cap from the stand pipe;
water pressure from the pump will help dislodge any debris that has collected in the pipes. A
reverse flow can be achieved by turning off the pump and putting a garden hose, or if needed,
a pressure washer down the stand pipe. This is where the 1 ½” bog piping helps, because a
garden hose fits nicely into that pipe leaving plenty of room to snake through 90º and 45º elbows.
Common Errors
1. The bog is too small: For water gardens 10 – 15% of surface area should be bog, and for
koi ponds there should be 25 – 30%.
2. Too deep a bed of gravel – this is the most common mistake made. You need no more than
12” of gravel substrate. If you are adding a Gravel Bog to an existing deep pond area; you can
construct a false bottom using grating available from us.
3. Wrong size gravel – use 3/8” pea gravel. We repeat….3/8” pea gravel.
4. Not enough plants - initially you should plant one plant per square foot.
5. Wrong plants – there are many aggressive species which can over grow your bog.
6. Washing the soil off the roots of the plants before planting in the gravel – Don’t do this!
There is not enough nutrition in a new bog to sustain new transplants. Just knock the pot off
the plant and plant it with the soil, roots and all directly into the gravel. We promise the soil
will not “contaminate” the bog or wash into your pond.
7. Not taking the plants out of their pots – this severely limits the plants ability to absorb
nutrients and defeats the purpose of the gravel bog filter.
8. Starving the bog – this happens when a pre-filter* is placed on the intake of the pump, this
not only stresses the pump but defeats the entire purpose of the bog by starving the plants of
the nutrients that are being caught in the pre-filter.
*We are speaking of a true mechanical pre-filter (usually made from foam pads which need
frequent cleanings) and not the pump protector or intake screen we recommend using.
Planting the Bog Filter
1. Select your bog plants and arrange them in the bog area that is half filled with gravel. Be
sure you stay away from the plants in the middle list. It’s best to plant the tall plants towards
the back of the filter, and lower growing plants in front. Create interest by contrasting plants
with different foliage colors or textures.
2. After you have arranged the plants to your satisfaction knock the pots off the plants and
place the plant with the root ball intact with soil. Do not remove the soil—there is not enough
nutrition in a brand new bog to sustain the plants. (Trust us the soil will not wash into your
pond.)
3. After the plants have been placed, gently shovel in the remaining gravel. Your goal is to
place the plants at the appropriate level so that when the rest of the gravel is added the gravel
level will be above the water level. In other words, no standing water in the gravel filter area.
4. Turn on your pump and your bog filter is now off and running with years of clear water enjoyment to come.
Layout of Partition Bog Filter
The above information was taken from the Nelson Water Garden’s web site. See,
www.nelsonwatergardens.com for more information. Also, excerpts from The Love Your
Pond blog written by Mike Gannon of Full Service Aquatics.
THE NATURAL POOL
So you’ve just read the article about Bogs and you found it inspiring. Thinking about adding a
bog area to your current pond, or redoing your pond altogether to include a really perfect
bog/pond combo?
Well before you settle on any design specifics consider another option. If you are not interested in Koi ponds or goldfish ponds, if you are more interested in a water garden with plants
only without fish, then you must look into:
THE NATURAL POOL.
This relatively rare design option offers the “plants only” water gardener a whole other area
to explore that you have perhaps only dreamed of while gazing at your pond. I know many of
you have enjoyed an occasional swim in your fish ponds, but don’t make it a regular practice
what with the waste load, algae problems etc. etc.
Considering the facts we learned in the article about Bogs. We know that a true veggie filter
setup (BOG), delivers pure clean water to the pond keeping it crystal clear if the bog is sufficiently sized. Well now you can rejoice in the
fact that you can take that one step further. It is possible to build a swimming pool that contains no chlorine and is filtered by natural veggie filtration! This combination bog and swim
area combo is call a Natural Pool and has been around for about 25 years! There is a company called BIOTOP NATURAL POOLS that has built over 4000 natural pools in their mission
to “serve the beauty and power of nature by designing green spaces with water, to benefit
people and the natural environment.” You can check out their web site and get the entire
story on how they have done it.
START HERE:
http://www.biotop-natural-pool.com/index.html
Be sure to go to the Photo Corner and take a look at some impressive projects. Then look at
each type category, including The Classical Pool, The Standard Pool, and The Design Pool. Be
sure to examine the photographs in each of those style categories. There are some real inspirational designs there!
While this may be a project that presents it’s own set of challenges including design and financial headaches, it might be just what you are looking for to get the creative juices flowing
for a new adventure in water gardening!
Eastern Iowa Pond Society
Our Mission Statement:
The purpose of the Association shall be to create, promote
and enlarge the hobbies of ponds, aquatic gardening, and
keeping, breeding, appreciating, and exhibiting the wonderful
world of fish.
The Association shall disseminate information about t he
above to the membership to engage in educational and social
activities related to our purposes; and to acquire and own such
property as may be necessary for any or all of the fore going
purposes.
Eastern Iowa Pond Society
Jackie Allsup, Editor
PO Box 148
Quasqueton, IA 52326