Fragrances - US, September 2012
Transcription
Fragrances - US, September 2012
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Table of contents Fragrances US, September 2012 SCOPE AND THEMES ...............................................................................................................................10 What you need to know ......................................................................................................................10 Definition .............................................................................................................................................10 Data sources .......................................................................................................................................11 Sales data .............................................................................................................................................................. 11 Consumer survey data ........................................................................................................................................... 11 Advertising creative ................................................................................................................................................ 12 Abbreviations and terms .....................................................................................................................12 Abbreviations .......................................................................................................................................................... 12 Terms ..................................................................................................................................................................... 12 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY .............................................................................................................................14 The market ..........................................................................................................................................14 Figure 1: Total U.S. sales and fan chart forecast of fragrances, at current prices, 2007-17 .................................... 14 Market factors .....................................................................................................................................15 Aging population creates challenges, opportunities ................................................................................................ 15 Figure 2: U.S. population, by age, 2012-17 ............................................................................................................ 15 Hispanic, Asian populations growing and engaged in the category ........................................................................ 15 Figure 3: U.S. population, by race/Hispanic origin 2012-17 .................................................................................... 16 Economy still struggling, but fragrance category gaining momentum ..................................................................... 16 Figure 4: DPI, 2007-March 2012............................................................................................................................. 17 Retail channels ...................................................................................................................................17 Figure 5: Sales of fragrances, by channel, 2012 ..................................................................................................... 18 Key players .........................................................................................................................................18 The consumer .....................................................................................................................................18 Perfume has the highest use among traditional forms, but usage frequency is low ................................................ 18 Figure 6: Fragrance usage, traditional forms— any, daily, or occasionally wear, May 2012 ................................... 19 Line extension items add benefits, increase usage frequency ................................................................................ 19 Figure 7: Fragrance usage, line extensions—any, daily, or occasionally wear, May 2012 ...................................... 20 Added benefits garner high consumer interest ....................................................................................................... 20 Figure 8: Interest in product innovations, properties, May 2012 .............................................................................. 21 Young men are most likely to be interested in innovative product forms ................................................................. 21 Figure 9: Interest in product innovation forms—any interest, May 2012 ................................................................. 22 What we think......................................................................................................................................22 ISSUES IN THE MARKET ..........................................................................................................................23 How can brands sustain long-term growth (or brand loyalty)? ...........................................................23 How will increasing regulation impact the category? ..........................................................................24 What role will technology play in the fragrance category? .................................................................24 INSIGHTS AND OPPORTUNITIES ............................................................................................................26 Opportunity to add efficacy and value with added benefits ................................................................26 Beyond luxury .....................................................................................................................................26 Natural and sustainable ......................................................................................................................27 Multicultural consumers, Millennials hold greatest opportunity ..........................................................27 A sensory journey ...............................................................................................................................28 TREND APPLICATIONS ............................................................................................................................29 Trend: Mood to Order .........................................................................................................................29 Trend: Extend My Brand .....................................................................................................................30 2015 Trend: Brand Intervention ..........................................................................................................31 MARKET SIZE AND FORECAST ...............................................................................................................33 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................33 Sales continue to recover after sharp declines during recession .......................................................33 © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. iii Table of contents Fragrances US, September 2012 Category expected to see sales growth through 2017 .......................................................................33 Sales and forecast of fragrances ........................................................................................................33 Figure 10: Total U.S. retail sales and forecast of fragrances, at current prices, 2007-17 ........................................ 33 Figure 11: Total U.S. retail sales and forecast of fragrances, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2007-17 ........................ 34 Fan chart forecast ...............................................................................................................................34 Figure 12: Total U.S. sales and fan chart forecast of fragrances, at current prices, 2007-17 .................................. 35 Walmart sales .....................................................................................................................................35 MARKET DRIVERS ....................................................................................................................................36 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................36 Aging population creates challenges for the fragrance industry .........................................................36 Figure 13: U.S. population, by age, 2007-17 .......................................................................................................... 37 Hispanic and Asian populations are growing and engaged in the category .......................................37 Figure 14: U.S. population, by race/Hispanic origin 2007-17 .................................................................................. 38 Economic recovery slow but fragrance category growing ..................................................................38 Figure 15: Thomson Reuters/University of Michigan’s index of consumer sentiment, 2006-Q2 2012 ..................... 38 Figure 16: DPI, 2007-March 2012........................................................................................................................... 39 Bath and shower products contribute to category growth ..................................................................39 Figure 17: Total U.S. retail sales and forecast of soap, bath, and shower products, at current prices, 2006-16 ..... 40 Figure 18: Total U.S. retail sales and forecast of liquid body wash, at current prices, 2006-16 ............................... 40 COMPETITIVE CONTEXT ..........................................................................................................................41 Body care products add fragrance and skincare benefits ..................................................................41 Consumers seeking scent through laundry ........................................................................................42 Figure 19: Interest in product innovations—Scent extensions—Any interested, May 2012 ..................................... 43 Experiencing fragrance without wearing it ..........................................................................................43 Figure 20: Interest in product innovations—Scent Extensions—Any interested, May 2012 .................................... 44 SEGMENT PERFORMANCE ......................................................................................................................45 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................45 Women’s and men’s segments showing healthy growth ....................................................................45 Sales of fragrances, by segment ........................................................................................................45 Figure 21: Sales of fragrances, segmented by type, 2010 and 2012 ...................................................................... 45 SEGMENT PERFORMANCE—WOMEN’S FRAGRANCE ........................................................................46 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................46 Women’s fragrance segment healthy and growing ............................................................................46 Sales and forecast of women’s fragrance ...........................................................................................46 Figure 22: Sales and forecast of women’s fragrance, at current prices, 2007-17 .................................................... 46 SEGMENT PERFORMANCE—MEN’S FRAGRANCE ..............................................................................47 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................47 Men’s segment strong, but still recovering .........................................................................................47 Sales and forecast of men’s fragrance ...............................................................................................47 Figure 23: Sales and forecast of men’s fragrance, at current prices, 2007-17 ........................................................ 47 RETAIL CHANNELS ...................................................................................................................................48 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................48 Growth driven by “other” channels, leads category in sales growth ...................................................48 Despite stronger commitment to beauty, drug stores lose share .......................................................48 Sales of fragrances, by channel .........................................................................................................49 Figure 24: Sales of fragrances, by channel, 2010 and 2012 ................................................................................... 49 RETAIL CHANNELS—SUPERMARKETS .................................................................................................50 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................50 © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. iv Table of contents Fragrances US, September 2012 Supermarket sales continue to decline ...............................................................................................50 Supermarket sales of fragrances ........................................................................................................50 Figure 25: Supermarket sales of fragrances, at current prices, 2007-12 ................................................................. 50 RETAIL CHANNELS—DRUG STORES.....................................................................................................51 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................51 Despite efforts to improve beauty offerings, drug stores lose share ..................................................51 Drug store most popular retailer for men’s fragrance purchases .......................................................51 Figure 26: Drug store sales of fragrances, at current prices, 2007-12 .................................................................... 51 RETAIL CHANNELS—OTHER RETAIL CHANNELS ...............................................................................52 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................52 Strong sales in the “other” segment are driving category growth .......................................................52 Women more likely to shop specialty beauty over FDMx channels ...................................................52 Other retail channels sales of fragrances ...........................................................................................53 Figure 27: Other sales of fragrances, at current prices, 2007-12 ............................................................................ 53 LEADING COMPANIES ..............................................................................................................................54 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................54 Category showing growth but sales decline in FDMx .........................................................................54 Sales gains by Unilever and P&G driven by men’s segment .............................................................54 Manufacturer sales of fragrances .......................................................................................................55 Figure 28: FDMx sales of fragrances by leading companies, 2011 and 2012 ......................................................... 55 BRAND SHARE—WOMEN’S FRAGRANCE .............................................................................................56 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................56 Women’s fragrance struggles in FDMx ...............................................................................................56 Mass fragrance products showing signs of success ..........................................................................56 Struggles continue for Coty Beauty in FDMx ......................................................................................57 Manufacturer sales of women’s fragrances ........................................................................................58 Figure 29: FDMx sales of women’s fragrances by leading companies, 2011 and 2012 .......................................... 58 BRAND SHARE—MEN’S FRAGRANCE ...................................................................................................61 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................61 Men’s fragrance growth slows though faring better than women’s.....................................................61 Unilever and P&G continue to have success in men’s segment ........................................................61 Traditional cologne brands struggle in FDMx .....................................................................................61 Manufacturer sales of men’s fragrances .............................................................................................62 Figure 30: FDMx sales of men’s fragrances by leading companies, 2011 and 2012............................................... 62 INNOVATIONS AND INNOVATORS ..........................................................................................................64 NEW PRODUCT LAUNCH TRENDS .................................................................................................................64 Celebrity fragrances still hot................................................................................................................64 Unisex fragrances surge in popularity ................................................................................................65 Figure 31: Fragrance product introductions, by subcategory, 2007-12 ................................................................... 65 Body sprays ........................................................................................................................................66 PRODUCT INNOVATIONS .............................................................................................................................67 Location, location, location ..................................................................................................................67 Take me out to the ballgame ..............................................................................................................68 To the extreme ....................................................................................................................................69 Get it while it lasts ...............................................................................................................................70 MARKETING STRATEGIES .......................................................................................................................71 © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. v Table of contents Fragrances US, September 2012 Overview of the brand landscape .......................................................................................................71 Brand analysis: Chanel .......................................................................................................................71 Figure 32: Chanel logo ........................................................................................................................................... 71 Figure 33: Brand analysis of Chanel No. 5, 2012.................................................................................................... 71 Online initiatives ..................................................................................................................................................... 72 Figure 34: Chanel website ...................................................................................................................................... 72 TV presence ........................................................................................................................................................... 72 Figure 35: Chanel, television ad, 2012 ................................................................................................................... 73 Brand analysis: Selena Gomez...........................................................................................................73 Figure 36: Selena Gomez logo ............................................................................................................................... 73 Figure 37: Brand analysis of Selena Gomez, 2012 ................................................................................................. 73 Online initiatives ..................................................................................................................................................... 73 Figure 38: Selena Gomez website .......................................................................................................................... 74 Brand analysis: Curve Appeal.............................................................................................................74 Figure 39: Curve Appeal logo ................................................................................................................................. 75 Figure 40: Brand analysis of Curve Appeal for Women and Men, 2012 .................................................................. 75 Online initiatives ..................................................................................................................................................... 75 Figure 41: Curve website ........................................................................................................................................ 76 Print and other ........................................................................................................................................................ 77 FRAGRANCE USAGE OVERVIEW ...........................................................................................................79 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................79 Highest usage among lower-ticket items ............................................................................................79 Majority of scented products only used occasionally ..........................................................................79 Figure 42: Fragrance usage, May 2012 .................................................................................................................. 80 Fragrance wearers more likely to use all product forms .....................................................................80 Figure 43: Fragrance usage, by fragrance usage, May 2012 .................................................................................. 81 Brand usage ........................................................................................................................................81 Figure 44: Brands of perfume, cologne, and toilet water used, by gender, January 2011-March 2012 ................... 82 FRAGRANCE USAGE BY TYPE—TRADITIONAL FORMS .....................................................................83 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................83 Highest fragrance usage among men and women aged 18-34..........................................................83 Figure 45: Fragrance usage—traditional forms, by gender and age, May 2012 ...................................................... 84 FRAGRANCE USAGE BY TYPE—LINE EXTENSIONS ...........................................................................85 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................85 Lower-priced scented products lead the way .....................................................................................85 Figure 46: Fragrance usage—line extensions, by gender and age, May 2012 ....................................................... 86 Aftershave more likely to be worn every day by older men ................................................................87 Figure 47: Aftershave usage, by male and age, May 2012 ..................................................................................... 87 Old Spice most popular aftershave or cologne brand with men .........................................................87 Figure 48: Brands of aftershave lotion or cologne used, among men, January 2011-March 2012 .......................... 88 TRYING A NEW FRAGRANCE ..................................................................................................................89 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................89 Smelling is the most frequent method for learning about fragrance ...................................................89 Word of mouth popular with young men .............................................................................................89 Figure 49: Steps taken before trying a new fragrance—learning about a scent, by gender and age, May 2012 ..... 90 Visiting retailers is the most popular way to try fragrances ................................................................90 Figure 50: Steps taken before trying a new fragrance—trying a scent, by gender and age, May 2012 ................... 91 PURCHASE LOCATIONS ..........................................................................................................................92 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................92 Drug stores most popular purchase location, but losing ground to other channels............................92 Figure 51: Fragrance purchase locations, May 2012 .............................................................................................. 93 © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. vi Table of contents Fragrances US, September 2012 Specialty retailers most popular with young women; men more likely to shop at department stores 93 Figure 52: Fragrance purchase locations, by gender and age, May 2012............................................................... 94 ATTITUDES TOWARD WEARING FRAGRANCE .....................................................................................96 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................96 Nearly half of fragrance wearers like to alternate between scents .....................................................96 Figure 53: Attitudes toward wearing fragrances, by gender and age, May 2012 ..................................................... 97 FRAGRANCE PREFERENCES ..................................................................................................................98 Key points ...........................................................................................................................................98 Young women most overwhelmed by fragrance choices ...................................................................98 Figure 54: Fragrance preferences, by gender and age, May 2012 ......................................................................... 99 Income impacts fragrance preferences ..............................................................................................99 Figure 55: Fragrance preferences, by household income, May 2012 ................................................................... 100 INTEREST IN PRODUCT INNOVATIONS—PROPERTIES ....................................................................101 Key points .........................................................................................................................................101 Added benefit fragrances could generate increased usage occasions ............................................101 Figure 56: Interest in product innovations—properties—Any interested, by gender and age, May 2012 .............. 102 INTEREST IN PRODUCT INNOVATIONS—FORMS...............................................................................103 Key points .........................................................................................................................................103 Innovative product forms provide creative sampling opportunities ...................................................103 Figure 57: Interest in product innovations—forms—Any interested, by gender and age, May 2012 ..................... 103 Young men express the highest interest in innovative product forms ..............................................104 Figure 58: Interest in product innovations—forms—Very interested, by male and age, May 2012 ....................... 104 INTEREST IN PRODUCT INNOVATIONS—SCENT EXTENSIONS .......................................................105 Key points .........................................................................................................................................105 Scent extensions create opportunity for lower-priced, value added items .......................................105 Figure 59: Interest in product innovations—scent extensions—Any interested, by gender and age, May 2012 .... 105 ATTITUDES TOWARD FRAGRANCE PACKAGING ..............................................................................106 Key points .........................................................................................................................................106 Product refills improve value perception and support conservation .................................................106 Packaging and product color can help support benefits ...................................................................106 Figure 60: Attitudes toward fragrance packaging, by gender and age, May 2012 ................................................. 107 SCENT PREFERENCE .............................................................................................................................108 Key points .........................................................................................................................................108 Fresh scents most popular with all respondents...............................................................................108 Figure 61: Scent preference, by gender and age, May 2012 ................................................................................ 109 RACE AND HISPANIC ORIGIN ................................................................................................................110 Key points .........................................................................................................................................110 Multicultural consumers highly engaged in the category ..................................................................110 Figure 62: Fragrance usage, by race/Hispanic origin, any wear or every day, May 2012 ..................................... 111 Figure 63: Brands of perfume, cologne, and toilet water used, by race/Hispanic origin, January 2011-March 2012 ..................................................................................................................................................................... 112 Black fragrance wearers like to experiment with fragrance ..............................................................112 Figure 64: Attitudes toward wearing fragrances, by race/Hispanic origin, May 2012 ............................................ 113 Figure 65: Fragrance preferences, by race/Hispanic origin, May 2012 ................................................................. 114 Asian and Hispanic fragrance wearers express interest in fragrance product innovations ..............114 Figure 66: Interest in product innovations—Any interested, by race/Hispanic origin, May 2012 ........................... 115 © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. vii Table of contents Fragrances US, September 2012 CLUSTER ANALYSIS...............................................................................................................................116 Figure 67: Target clusters, May 2012 ................................................................................................................... 116 Cluster 1: Seekers ............................................................................................................................116 Characteristics ...................................................................................................................................................... 116 Opportunity ........................................................................................................................................................... 117 Cluster 2: Uninvolved ........................................................................................................................117 Characteristics ...................................................................................................................................................... 117 Opportunity ........................................................................................................................................................... 117 Cluster 3: Influencers ........................................................................................................................118 Characteristics ...................................................................................................................................................... 118 Opportunity ........................................................................................................................................................... 118 Cluster characteristic tables ..............................................................................................................119 Figure 68: Fragrance usage, by target clusters, May 2012 ................................................................................... 119 Figure 69: Fragrance preferences, by target clusters, May 2012 .......................................................................... 119 Figure 70: Attitudes toward fragrance packaging, by target clusters, May 2012 ................................................... 120 Figure 71: Interest in product innovations– Any interested, by target clusters, May 2012 ..................................... 120 Figure 72: Steps taken before trying a new fragrance, by target clusters, May 2012 ............................................ 121 Figure 73: Steps taken before trying a new fragrance, by target clusters, May 2012 ............................................ 121 Cluster methodology .........................................................................................................................121 CUSTOM CONSUMER GROUPS—TEENS .............................................................................................123 Key points .........................................................................................................................................123 Aftershave use increases as male teens age ...................................................................................123 Figure 74: Use of aftershave lotion and cologne, by male and age, October 2010-November 2011 ..................... 123 Axe is the most used brand among male teens, though usage drops with age ...............................124 Figure 75: Use of aftershave lotion or cologne, by male and age, October 2010-November 2011 ....................... 124 Cologne and perfume are preferred forms among teens .................................................................124 Figure 76: Use of perfume, cologne, and toilet water, by gender and age, October 2010-November 2011 .......... 125 Bath & Body Works tops the list for female teens.............................................................................125 Figure 77: Use of perfume, cologne, and toilet water, by gender and age, October 2010-November 2011 .......... 126 Young female teens most likely to be influenced by celebrities .......................................................126 Figure 78: Attitudes about celebrities, by gender and age, October 2010-November 2011 .................................. 126 Figure 79: Celebrity fragrance brand usage, by those who like to buy the same products that celebrities use, October 2010-November 2011 ............................................................................................................................. 127 KEY HOUSEHOLD PURCHASE MEASURES—SYMPHONYIRI GROUP BUILDERS PANEL DATA .128 OVERVIEW OF SHAVING LOTION/MEN’S FRAGRANCES .................................................................................128 Consumer insights on key purchase measures ................................................................................128 Brand map.........................................................................................................................................128 Figure 80: Brand map, selected brands of shaving lotion/cologne/talc, by household penetration, 52 weeks ending June 26, 2011 ........................................................................................................................................... 129 Brand leader characteristics .............................................................................................................129 Key purchase measures ...................................................................................................................130 Figure 81: Key purchase measures for the top brands of shaving lotion/cologne/talc, by household penetration, 52 weeks ending June 26, 2011 ........................................................................................................................... 130 APPENDIX—OTHER USEFUL CONSUMER TABLES ...........................................................................131 Fragrance usage ...............................................................................................................................131 Figure 82: Fragrance usage, by gender, May 2012 .............................................................................................. 131 Trying a new fragrance .....................................................................................................................133 Figure 83: Steps taken before trying a new fragrance, by gender, May 2012 ....................................................... 133 Figure 84: Steps taken before trying a new fragrance, by gender, May 2012 ....................................................... 133 Purchase locations ............................................................................................................................134 Figure 85: Fragrance purchase locations, by household income, May 2012 ......................................................... 134 Interest in product innovations ..........................................................................................................136 Figure 86: Interest in product innovations, May 2012 ........................................................................................... 136 © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. viii Table of contents Fragrances US, September 2012 APPENDIX—SYMPHONYIRI BUILDERS PANEL DATA DEFINITIONS................................................137 SymphonyIRI Consumer Network Metrics ........................................................................................137 APPENDIX—TRADE ASSOCIATIONS ....................................................................................................139 APPENDIX: RESEARCH METHODOLOGY ............................................................................................142 CONSUMER RESEARCH ............................................................................................................................142 Primary Data Analysis .......................................................................................................................142 Sampling .............................................................................................................................................................. 142 Global Market Insite (GMI).................................................................................................................................... 142 Secondary Data Analysis ..................................................................................................................142 Experian Simmons National Consumer Studies ................................................................................................... 143 Statistical Forecasting .......................................................................................................................146 Statistical modelling .............................................................................................................................................. 146 Qualitative insight ................................................................................................................................................. 146 The Mintel fan chart .............................................................................................................................................. 146 Weather analogy .................................................................................................................................................. 147 APPENDIX: WHAT IS MINTEL? ..............................................................................................................149 Mintel provides industry-leading market intelligence ........................................................................149 Mintel Solutions: ................................................................................................................................149 Mintel Oxygen Reports ......................................................................................................................................... 149 Mintel GNPD ........................................................................................................................................................ 149 Mintel Inspire ........................................................................................................................................................ 149 Mintel Beauty Innovation ...................................................................................................................................... 149 Mintel Menu Insights ............................................................................................................................................. 150 Mintel Research Consultancy ............................................................................................................................... 150 Mintel Comperemedia .......................................................................................................................................... 150 © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. ix Scope and Themes Fragrances US, September 2012 Scope and Themes What you need to know The U.S. fragrance market is experiencing healthy growth after seeing declines associated with the economic recession. Due to estimated growth of 6% in 2012, the industry is expected to reach more than $3.5 billion in sales by the end of the year. Growth is being driven by improved consumer confidence, increased product launches, and strong performance in retail channels outside of FDMx. Positive sales growth is forecast for both the women’s and men’s segments through 2017. In the women’s segment, celebrity and fashion house fragrances continue to remain popular, though more unique positioning such as destination based fragrances are paving the way for increased innovation in the category. The men’s segment continues to see growth in FDMx from power players like Axe and Old Spice driven by items like body sprays. In addition to strong sales growth, responses to Mintel’s exclusive consumer survey indicate that the time is ripe for increased product innovation in the fragrance category. Survey results show strong consumer interest in added product benefits like mood boosting and anti-aging, as well as innovative forms and extending scent into additional product categories. Healthy category growth combined with increased product innovation makes this an exciting time for the fragrance industry. Definition This report builds on the analysis presented in Mintel’s Fragrances—U.S., September 2011, as well as Women’s Fragrances—U.S., September 2010 and the September 2008, December 2007, November 2006, October 2004, and March 2002 reports of the same tile, and Men’s Fragrances—U.S., November 2010 and the October 2008, November 2007, December 2006, November 2004, and April 2002 reports of the same title. For the purposes of this report, Mintel has used the following definitions: This report covers the U.S. market for fragrances in all forms (i.e., spray, pour, solid, oil). The market can be broadly segmented according to a product’s strength (the grade of alcohol denotes the percentage of alcohol to water) and/or form including: Perfume or an eau de parfum (EDP) usually contains 15-25% fragrance oil in pure ethyl alcohol. Eau de toilette (EDT) is a 6-15% solution of fragrance oil in an 80% grade of alcohol. Cologne is a 3-6% solution of fragrance oil in a 70% grade of alcohol. Aftershaves Scented body powders and talcs Gift packs. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 10 Scope and Themes Fragrances US, September 2012 Unisex fragrances (not a separate segment in sales data but those that are sold in FDMx channels are included in SymphonyIRI data as either a men’s or women’s fragrance. Unisex fragrances are featured as a separate segment in Innovations and Innovators.) Scented shower gels, body lotions, and body sprays are not included in market/sales data but are included in consumer analysis. Excluded from the scope of this report are line extensions of other men’s/women’s personal care products such as: Deodorants or antiperspirants Shaving products such as shaving creams, shaving gels, preshave for electric razors Hair gels or other styling products Shampoos or conditioners. Value figures throughout this report are at retail selling prices (rsp) excluding sales tax unless otherwise stated. Data sources Sales data Market Size and Forecast, Segment Performance, and Retail Channels are based on SymphonyIRI Group InfoScan® Reviews, U.S. Census Bureau, Economic Census. Leading Companies and Brand Share are based on SymphonyIRI Group InfoScan® Reviews. Consumer survey data For the purposes of this report, Mintel commissioned exclusive consumer research through GMI to explore consumer use of and attitudes toward fragrances. Mintel was responsible for the survey design, data analysis, and reporting. Fieldwork was conducted in May 2012 among a sample of 2,000 adults aged 18+ with access to the internet. Mintel selects survey respondents so that they are proportionally balanced to the entire U.S. adult population based on the key demographics of gender, age, household income, and region. Mintel also slightly oversamples, relative to the population, respondents that are Hispanic or black to ensure an adequate representation of these groups in the survey results. Please note that Mintel surveys are conducted online and in English only. Hispanics who are not online and/or do not speak English are not included in the survey results. Mintel has also analyzed data from Experian Consumer Research, using the Experian Simmons National Consumer Study (NCS), the Experian Simmons National Hispanic Consumer Study (NHCS), and the Experian Simmons Teen Study. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 11 Scope and Themes Fragrances US, September 2012 The NCS/NHCS was carried out during January 2011-March 2012 and the results are based on the sample of 24,330 adults aged 18+, with results weighted to represent the U.S. adult population. The Simmons Teen Study was conducted during October 2010-November 2011 and based on a sample of 1,776 teenagers aged 12-17, with results weighted to represent the U.S. teen population. While race and Hispanic origin are separate demographic characteristics, Mintel often compares them to each other. Please note that the responses for race (white, black, Asian, Native American, or other race) will overlap those that also are Hispanic, because Hispanics can be of any race. Advertising creative All advertising creative provided by Competitrack, the leading U.S. competitive ad tracking provider. For Mintel reports, Competitrack monitors network, cable, spot, syndicated, public, and local television advertising. For further information, or to order television, magazine, newspaper, online display, online video, radio, outdoor, viral, or cinema advertising, or alternative media, inserts, and circulars, please contact Competitrack at [email protected], or call 718.482.4200. Abbreviations and terms Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used in this report: CPI FDMx FDMW GNPD NACS NCS/NHCS rsp EDP EDT EPAA EU P&G IFRA RIFM SCCS Consumer Price Index Food, Drug, and Mass Merchandisers, excluding Walmart—SymphonyIRI definition Food, Drug, and Mass Merchandisers, including Walmart—SymphonyIRI definition Global New Products Database National Association of Convenience Stores National Consumer Study/National Hispanic Consumer Study (Experian Simmons) Retail selling price Eau de parfum Eau de toilette European Partnership for Alternative Approaches to Animal Testing European Union Procter & Gamble International Fragrance Association Research Institute for Fragrance Materials Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety Terms Fine fragrance Traditional fragrance forms that are generally sold at a higher-price point and include variants like parfum, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, and cologne. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 12 Scope and Themes Fragrances US, September 2012 Generations (if discussed within this report) are defined as: World War II Swing Generation Baby Boomers Generation X Millennials* Matrix Generation** The generation born in 1932 or before. In 2012, members of this generation are aged 80 or older. The generation born between 1933 and 1945. In 2012, members of the Swing Generation are between the ages of 67 and 79. The generation born between 1946 and 1964. In 2012, Baby Boomers are between the ages of 48 and 66. The generation born between 1965 and 1976. In 2012, Generation Xers are between the ages of 36 and 47. The generation born between 1977 and 1994. In 2012, Millennials are between the ages of 18 and 35. The generation born from 1995 to present. In 2012, Matrices are aged 17 or younger. * also known as Generation Y or Echo Boomers ** previously known as Post-Millennials In order to provide an inflation-adjusted price value for markets, Mintel uses the CPI to deflate current prices. The CPI is defined as follows: CPI The Consumer Price Index is a measure of the average change over time in the prices paid by urban consumers for a market basket of consumer goods and services. The CPI and its components are typically used to adjust other economic series for price changes and to translate these series into inflation-free dollars. Examples of series adjusted by the CPI include retail sales, hourly and weekly earnings, and components of the national income and product accounts. In addition, and in Mintel reports, the CPI is used as a deflator of the value of the consumer’s dollar to find its purchasing power. The purchasing power of the consumer’s dollar measures the change in the value to the consumer of goods and services that a dollar will buy at different dates. The CPI is generally the best measure for adjusting payments to consumers when the intent is to allow consumers to purchase, at today’s prices, a market basket of goods and services equivalent to one that they could purchase in an earlier period. It is also the best measure to use to translate retail sales into real or inflation-free dollars. Based on Bureau of Labor Statistics definition. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 13 Executive Summary Fragrances US, September 2012 Executive Summary “The fragrance industry is showing strong signs of recovery after experiencing steep declines during the recession. Both the men’s and women’s segments are expected to see sales growth over the next five years fueled by an increase in new product launches combined with increased interest in high end fragrances and more unique and customized fragrances appealing to today’s demanding consumer.” – Shannon Romanowski, Beauty & Personal Care Analyst The market The fragrance industry took a big hit during the recession, experiencing nearly a 12% decline through 2009. However, with improving economic stability along with increased product launches and promotions, the category is experiencing an improved outlook. Due to estimated growth of 6% in 2012, the industry is expected to reach more than $3.5 billion in sales by the end of the year. FIGURE 1: TOTAL U.S. SALES AND FAN CHART FORECAST OF FRAGRANCES, AT CURRENT PRICES, 2007-17 7,000 Total Sales($ millions) 6,000 Best case (million) $5,748 5,000 Mintel forecast (million) 4,482 (million) 3,510 4,000 Worst case (million) $3,216 3,000 2,000 Confidence intervals 1,000 00 2007 95% 90% 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 Est. Actual Forecast 2017 70% 50% SOURCE: MINTEL/BASED ON SYMPHONYIRI INFOSCAN® REVIEWS; U.S. CENSUS BUREAU, ECONOMIC CENSUS © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 14 Executive Summary Fragrances US, September 2012 Market factors Aging population creates challenges, opportunities As the aging population is expected to swell over the next five years, challenges to keep this consumer engaged in the category will continue as use of virtually all fragrance categories decreases with age. While the aging population does represent challenges to the industry, it also creates opportunities. Adding functional benefits like anti-aging or mood boosting will help keep fragrances relevant and improve perception of value, ultimately providing a way to further engage older consumers and help meet their changing needs. Combining consumer-relevant benefits with appealing product forms could be an opportunity for the fragrance industry to curb some of the usage declines often seen with age in this multibillion-dollar industry. FIGURE 2: U.S. POPULATION, BY AGE, 2012-17 50 44 42 45 40 44 44 45 43 42 41 44 43 42 38 millions 35 30 25 20 29 23 22 21 21 19 15 10 5 0 <5 5-14 15-24 25-34 35-44 45-54 55-64 65-74 75+ 2012 2017 SOURCE: MINTEL/U.S. CENSUS BUREAU, INTERIM POPULATION PROJECTIONS RELEASED 2008 (POPULATION IN 2012 AND 2017) AND ANNUAL JULY 1 POPULATION ESTIMATES (POPULATION IN 2007) Hispanic, Asian populations growing and engaged in the category Another shifting demographic influence will be race/Hispanic origin. The Asian and Hispanic populations are predicted to experience 14.2% and 15.6% growth, respectively, over the next five years compared to the 4.9% total population growth. This is good news for the fragrance industry as these ethnic groups are significantly more likely than the total population to use virtually all fragrance forms. Additionally, Asians and Hispanics express a higher than average interest in trying new fragrance benefits such as anti-aging and new forms like a scented chewing gum, making the category ripe for product innovation. Manufacturers should keep in mind that product advertising and outreach efforts to multicultural consumers should reflect their usage behavior in promotional messaging. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 15 Executive Summary Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 3: U.S. POPULATION, BY RACE/HISPANIC ORIGIN 2012-17 SOURCE: MINTEL/U.S. CENSUS BUREAU, INTERIM POPULATION PROJECTIONS RELEASED 2008 (POPULATION IN 2012 AND 2017) AND ANNUAL JULY 1 POPULATION ESTIMATES (POPULATION IN 2007) Economy still struggling, but fragrance category gaining momentum The economy is still struggling, but there are signs of growth. The fragrance industry is expected to grow 6% in 2012 and disposable personal income (DPI) is slowly improving, which should encourage freer spending on fragrance. While economic insecurity remains an issue, luxury fragrances and specialty beauty retailers are at the core of growth in the category. As consumers slowly loosen the reins on spending, they appear to be trading up to specialty beauty in order to treat themselves. This is particularly true among younger consumers that like to experiment and specialty beauty offers a wide range of scents, forms, and prices to meet their needs. Older consumers generally have more disposable income and may be willing to invest more in luxury items, particularly classic scents from prestige brands like Chanel and Estée Lauder. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 16 Executive Summary Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 4: DPI, 2007-MARCH 2012 8% 6% 5% 6% 4% 4% 3% 2% 2% 0% 1% 0% -2% -1% -4% -2% -6% -3% J-07 M-07 S-07 J-08 M-08 S-08 J-09 M-09 S-09 J-10 M-10 S-10 J-11 M-11 S-11 J-12 M-12 Change from Year Ago Percent Change from Previous Month SOURCE: ST. LOUIS FEDERAL RESERVE Retail channels Fragrances are available at a wide range of retailers including FDMx channels as well as a variety of other retailers combining both value and premium outlets. The “other” segment dominates sales of fragrances, representing an 83% market share in 2012. Such dominance is largely due to the wide range of purchase locations including high end retailers like specialty beauty and department stores as well as value-driven retailers like supercenters and warehouse clubs. Drug stores are the top FDMx outlet for fragrance sales, though they are experiencing the steepest declines among all retail channels as consumers (particularly women) appear to be trading up to specialty beauty and more premium fragrance offerings. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 17 Executive Summary Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 5: SALES OF FRAGRANCES, BY CHANNEL, 2012 Supermarkets 4% Drug stores 13% Other 83% Note: Other retail channels include department stores, cosmetics/beauty supply stores, supercenters, warehouse clubs, non-store retailers, etc. SOURCE: MINTEL/BASED ON SYMPHONYIRI GROUP INFOSCAN REVIEWS; U.S. CENSUS BUREAU ECONOMIC CENSUS Key players While the fragrance category as a whole is experiencing growth, retail sales of fragrance through FDMx channels fell by 2.4% for the year ending June 10, 2012. This is consistent with what we are seeing in retail channels where drug stores and supermarkets are in decline while the “other” segment, likely driven by specialty beauty, is posting strong gains. Coty Beauty remains the top company in FDMx but continues to see declines in sales and share. Among leading FDMx brands, Unilever and Procter & Gamble (P&G) posted the strongest gains with sales bolstered by mass brands like Axe, Old Spice, and Secret. The consumer Perfume has the highest use among traditional forms, but usage frequency is low Traditional fragrance forms include perfume, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, and cologne. Overall, with the exception of cologne, women are significantly more likely to wear fragrance, and wear it more frequently. Usage is highest among young consumers, but even with higher reported usage, frequency of use remains relatively low. Of the traditional forms, perfume has the highest reported daily wear while other forms are more likely to be used only for special occasions. Increasing usage occasions by introducing functional benefits such as anti-aging or antibacterial properties could be a big opportunity for the industry. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 18 Executive Summary Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 6: FRAGRANCE USAGE, TRADITIONAL FORMS— ANY, DAILY, OR OCCASIONALLY WEAR, MAY 2012 “Which of the following best describe how often you wear each of following fragrance types?” Base: 2,000 internet users aged 18+ SOURCE: MINTEL Line extension items add benefits, increase usage frequency Line extensions include products that provide scent in alternate forms and frequently offer an added benefit like cleansing or moisturizing. Scented soap/shower gel, scented lotion from a mass retailer, and body spray are the most frequently used line extensions. As interest is considerably higher in these line extension items, opportunities exist for traditional fragrances to extend into other product categories. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 19 Executive Summary Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 7: FRAGRANCE USAGE, LINE EXTENSIONS—ANY, DAILY, OR OCCASIONALLY WEAR, MAY 2012 “Which of the following best describe how often you wear each of following fragrance types?” Base: 2,000 internet users aged 18+ SOURCE: MINTEL Added benefits garner high consumer interest The majority of fragrance wearers express interest in fragrances that offer added benefit properties, with three quarters of respondents claiming some interest in fragrances that are mood boosting or stress relieving. The opportunity to add benefits to fine fragrance are definitely there based on the high consumer interest reported for a variety of different properties. Adding benefits not only improve the perceived value of the product to the consumer, it likely increases usage frequency, making this proposition a win-win for both consumers and manufacturers. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 20 Executive Summary Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 8: INTEREST IN PRODUCT INNOVATIONS, PROPERTIES, MAY 2012 “How interested would you be in the following?” Base: 1,529 internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrance Appetite-suppressing 20 Antibacterial 30 22 Anti-aging 38 26 Energy boost/pick me up 29 Mood enhancing 32 0% 22 26 37 27 Stress relieving 29 24 42 60% 12 16 44 40% 13 18 44 20% 14 14 80% Very interested Somewhat interested Not very interested Not at all interested 11 10 100% SOURCE: MINTEL Young men are most likely to be interested in innovative product forms Young men express a higher than average interest in innovative product forms, with 50% of men aged 1834 expressing interest in a fragrance pill, 51% in a chewing gum that emits fragrance, and 44% in a temporary tattoo that includes fragrance. These product forms provide innovative sampling opportunities as well as opportunities to leverage popular young men’s fragrances into line extension products. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 21 Executive Summary Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 9: INTEREST IN PRODUCT INNOVATION FORMS—ANY INTEREST, MAY 2012 “How interested would you be in the following?” Base: 1,529 internet users 18+ who wear fragrance 60 51 50 50 44 % 40 30 29 26 21 20 10 0 A fragrance pill A chewing gum All A temporary tattoo Male, 18-34 SOURCE: MINTEL What we think The fragrance industry is experiencing healthy growth after seeing declines associated with the economic recession. Growth is being driven by improved consumer confidence, increased product launches, and strong performance in retail channels outside of FDMx. Despite the highly competitive and saturated market, positive sales growth is forecast for both the women’s and men’s segments through 2017. In the women’s segment, celebrity and fashion house fragrances continue to remain popular, though more unique positioning such as destination-based fragrances are paving the way for increased innovation in the category. The men’s segment continues to see growth in FDMx driven by popular brands like Axe and Old Spice, which offer highly scented products at an affordable price. In addition to strong sales growth, responses to Mintel’s exclusive consumer survey indicate that the time is ripe for increased product innovation in the fragrance category. Survey results show strong consumer interest in added product benefits like mood boosting and anti-aging, as well as innovative forms and extending scent into additional product categories. Healthy category growth combined with increased product innovation could prove lucrative for the fragrance industry. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 22 Issues in the Market Fragrances US, September 2012 Issues in the Market “Mintel forecasts growth in the fragrance category through 2017, but the industry does face challenges. Consumers like to experiment in this category making it difficult for brands to sustain growth and maintain brand loyalty, especially given the high number of product launches each year. This creates the opportunity to promote added benefits as well as creative sampling to potentially increase usage occasions and encourage consumers to experiment within a brand.” – Shannon Romanowski, Beauty & Personal Care Analyst How can brands sustain long-term growth (or brand loyalty)? Mintel’s consumer research finds that 48% of consumers like to alternate between a few scents, 28% like to experiment with scent, and 22% only wear their signature fragrance. Experimentation with different scents is expected to some degree in this category, particularly among younger respondents. However, sustaining growth and maintaining brand loyalty presents a big challenge, especially given the high number of product launches each year, which make it difficult for a fragrance to really stand out. The fragrance industry is seeing stronger signs of growth after declines during the recession. Celebrity and fashion house fragrances have contributed to this growth but have also been criticized for simply being a short-term trend that lacks sustainability. While the concept of having the latest fragrance by the current “it” celebrity will likely remain appealing to a certain segment of the population in the foreseeable future, building brand loyalty in a cluttered marketplace remains a challenge. Promoting added benefits such as anti-aging or mood boosting could help fragrances stand out from the crowd and potentially increase usage occasions. More than half of fragrance wearers express interest in fragrances with a variety of added benefits. Also, since consumers like to experiment, offering sample packs or trial sizes of fragrances allows consumers to try a variety of scents and engage them in the category. Sephora offers a sample gift set at the holidays that contains samples of around eight to 10 fragrances and includes a gift card that the purchaser can redeem for a full-size bottle of their favorite fragrance from the set. Another option is to offer mini sizes and let consumers create their own variety pack allowing them to sample multiple fragrances. Brands could also offer recommended sets of fragrances to meet different usage occasion needs, such as a fragrance for daytime wear, one for evening, and one for special occasions. Helping consumers create a “suite” of fragrances complementing their lifestyle and addressing their desire to experiment could help brands create a relationship with consumers that could ultimately lead to stronger brand loyalty. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 23 Issues in the Market Fragrances US, September 2012 How will increasing regulation impact the category? While often unseen to the consumer, industry regulations have greatly impacted the fragrance category over the past 10-15 years, and will continue to play a large role. Fragrance suppliers bear the brunt of these regulations, as it’s often specific fragrance ingredients targeted as potential safety concerns or allergens. The fragrance industry is regulated by two organizations known as the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) and the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM). However, the industry often feels outside pressure from consumer watchdog groups as well as global regulatory directives (particularly from the European Union (EU)). Responding to all these regulatory demands, whether forced or self-imposed, continues to limit the palette of fragrance ingredients used by perfumers, ultimately limiting their creativity and potential availability of certain scents. One of the biggest regulatory initiatives to impact the industry took place in 1999 when the European Scientific Committee identified 26 potential fragrance allergens, resulting in a directive that required products sold in the EU to list these ingredients individually on the product label, when used above a certain concentration. Since then, more information has become available regarding fragrance allergens, thus resulting in the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) publishing its July 2012 recommendation that the list be updated to include an additional 30 individual chemicals and 26 natural extracts in addition to the original list of 26 allergens. Based on the SCCS opinion, the European Commission will consider the appropriate regulatory measures though timing on a final decision is undetermined (Cosmetics Design-Europe, August 2012). While this directive is issued out of the EU, these regulations have implications for all global suppliers and manufacturers. Since most leading fragrance suppliers as well as fragrance brands sell their products globally, keeping up with global regulatory initiatives is paramount not only to streamline internal processes but also to ensure consumer confidence in their products. As U.S. companies continue to look for opportunities to expand their business or brand to other parts of the world (particularly Asia), keeping abreast of global regulatory directives is a reality of doing business in this global economy. Suppliers and manufacturers continually walk the line between offering innovative products while meeting the increased consumer demand for product information, making regulatory issues a major factor in fragrance development. What role will technology play in the fragrance category? Technology certainly plays a key role in the beauty industry, and the fragrance category is no exception. With the proliferation of beauty websites, beauty blogs, fragrance blogs, and beauty apps, consumers can research and purchase beauty products and fragrances 24/7. The internet has gone beyond just being a new way to purchase fragrance; consumers can interact with brands and products by searching for product descriptions and user reviews. While consumers are certainly using the internet to make fragrance purchases, fragrances do have a disadvantage when it comes to online purchasing—purchasers can’t smell the fragrance. While all products suffer a similar disadvantage since consumers can’t physically interact with the product on a computer, the key component of a fragrance (its scent) is eliminated when shopping online. Communicating smell with product descriptions is extremely difficult since most consumers have a very limited vocabulary when it comes to scent. At the same time, the sense of smell is extremely subjective. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 24 Issues in the Market Fragrances US, September 2012 Similarly, sampling at mass retailers can be challenging as often times high-priced items like fragrance are locked up, making it impossible for consumers to smell or sample. Mass retailers are beginning to address this “behind the glass” issue by offering in-store sampling opportunities. Duane Reade’s Look Boutique in New York City has a fragrance tester that allows consumers to sample fragrances by placing their wrist beneath the nozzle for a spritz of the fragrance they want to test. This type of tester enables shoppers to smell the fragrance on their skin, which is the preferred method of fragrance wearers to learn about and try a fragrance. Additionally, according to Mintel’s consumer data, nearly half of fragrance wearers report visiting a retailer to try a sample of a fragrance, making in-store sampling a great way for mass retailers to engage consumers (see Trying a New Fragrance). One way to engage online shoppers looking for fragrance could be to create a fragrance box subscription that follows in the footsteps of the popular beauty box trend. Beauty box subscriptions are the latest “trend” in sampling and offer customized boxes of product samples for a small price, allowing consumers to try before they buy without having to leave their home. Fragrance samples are included in some of the beauty boxes but are not the primary focus. The opportunity exists to create “fragrance boxes” using a similar strategy as beauty boxes to allow consumers to experiment with scents for a nominal fee and then purchase their favorites online. Using technology to enhance, rather than inhibit purchasing of fragrances will help grow the category and make it more accessible to consumers who may not always have access to specialty beauty or high end department stores and rely on mass retailers and the internet to get their fragrance fix. While fragrance sampling could encourage constant experimenting without consumers ever purchasing a full-size product, the opportunity to get more samples into more consumers’ hands will ultimately increase brand awareness, likely resulting in increased sales. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 25 Insights and Opportunities Fragrances US, September 2012 Insights and Opportunities Opportunity to add efficacy and value with added benefits Lower-priced items like scented soap, shower gel, and lotion have the highest usage in the category (see Fragrance Usage). The popularity of these items indicates the desire of consumers to get increased value along with a relatively low risk proposition for experimenting with a variety of scents. While the cleansing and moisturizing benefits of shower gels and lotions are obvious, adding benefits to traditional fragrance forms is an opportunity to grow the fine fragrance category and potentially increase usage occasions. These benefits could include things like stress relief, suppressing appetite, and even longer lasting scents that add value to traditional fragrance forms and offer some competition to lowerpriced, line extension items that offer benefits beyond scent. Linking a fragrance to health and wellness benefits also provides an interesting area of exploration for innovation. Research being conducted by Dr. Hirsch out of the Smell and Taste Institute in Chicago shows promise in the area of “relating olfactory mechanisms to influence biological responses.” For example, some research suggests that green apple can improve migraine symptoms, jasmine can improve reaction time, and coffee can decrease time perception. While this research is preliminary, it does provide some scientific validity around the power of scent. Marketing fragrance beyond just “smelling nice” and taking fragrance to areas like improving athletic performance with jasmine or naturally reducing migraine symptoms with green apple opens the door for some exciting product innovations. Adding benefits to fine fragrances can help increase usage of products that are sometimes seen as too expensive or unnecessary. According to Mintel’s Fragrances—U.S., September 2011, reasons for not wearing fragrance include lack of interest (41%) and too expensive (27%). Capturing these users with benefits that are seen as beneficial could be a way to increase penetration and frequency of usage among current users who only wear fragrances occasionally (see Fragrance Usage). Beyond luxury In contrast to the desire for lower-priced, higher value items, there also is a desire for ultra-luxe fragrances. These high-priced fragrances can be hard to find and often are limited edition. They provide consumers looking for luxury products the opportunity to own something special and different from the masses. After sales declines during the recession, the category is once again showing sales growth and improved consumer confidence. With this improvement consumers are more freely spending and according to Cosmetics Design and BCC Research “demand for high end perfumes continues to drive the markets for fragrance ingredients.” Demonstrating this trend is the high-priced launch of Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Eau de Parfum. This fragrance retails for $260 and is only available at the exclusive Bond No. 9 boutiques in New York City as well as the high end retailer Saks Fifth Avenue. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 26 Insights and Opportunities Fragrances US, September 2012 Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Eau de Parfum is said to celebrate the “boho-mod” life and times of the iconic artist. The fragrance features top notes of Italian bergamot zest, Cypriot india, Provence blue cypress and plum; middle notes of jasmine de Grasse, sultan agarwood, rose centifolia, white patchouli and cistus; and base notes of red sandalwood, vanilla bean Madagascar, oriental musk and olibanum tears. The bottle features the portrait of the artist himself at about age 35, wearing sunglasses, a trench coat, a white business shirt and a tie. The product is available in 3.4-fl. oz. ($260) and 1.7-fl. oz. ($180) packs. SOURCE: MINTEL GNPD Natural and sustainable Growing consumer interest in natural and ethical qualities of products is quickly becoming the norm across many consumer categories and fragrance is no exception. This goes beyond simply adding naturalsounding ingredients to using ingredients that are naturally sourced and are sustained in an ethical way. This means preserving the environment where the ingredient is sourced, replanting for the future, and supporting the local populations who cultivate and harvest these ingredients. The fragrance industry has suffered some bad press in recent years regarding the sourcing of some ingredients like sandalwood. In response, many fragrance houses are creating a sustainability program with promises to ethically source ingredients like vanilla, sandalwood, and other “exotic” ingredients that are only available in certain regions of the world. Ingredient testing is another “hot button” issue among consumers with animal testing being a particularly contentious topic. Responding to this issue, Symrise has become the first fragrance supplier to partner with EPAA (European Partnership for Alternative Approaches to Animal Testing) to promote alternative testing methods (Cosmetics Design, July 11, 2012). It is likely that other ingredient and fragrance suppliers will jump on board, proactively supporting alternative testing, ingredient replacements, and other regulatory issues to demonstrate their commitment to natural and ethical practices. Multicultural consumers, Millennials hold greatest opportunity According to Mintel’s Marketing to a Green Consumer—U.S., April 2012, Asians and Hispanics have a greater tendency than the average to purchase green products. At the same time, the Asian and Hispanic populations also over index in fragrance usage (see Race and Hispanic Origin). These tendencies, combined with projected population growth, should benefit the market for green fragrances. Another prime target for natural fragrances is Millennials. Also noted in Mintel’s Marketing to a Green Consumer—U.S., April 2012, Millennials are by far the most committed to buying green when compared to other generational groups. This group is also the most active in the fragrance category, particularly with lower-priced items like body sprays and shower gels. Targeting this group with natural claims could be beneficial. Manufacturers need to be careful to avoid “greenwashing” as consumer skepticism regarding natural claims is problematic, particularly in the personal care category where there is no standard definition for “natural,” creating confusion not only for companies, but ultimately for consumers. Some companies like Burt’s Bees are pushing for industry standards and guidelines regarding natural and sustainable claims. This type of proactive commitment to creating industry standards not only makes it easier for consumers to understand what ingredients are going into the products they use, but also helps garner consumer trust and confidence in the industry. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 27 Insights and Opportunities Fragrances US, September 2012 Creating 100% natural fragrances certainly limits the ingredient palette for perfumers as well as increases cost. However, for those consumers seeking green, they may be willing to make the trade-off in scent for the natural qualities they seek. The key for manufacturers is to communicate what ingredients are used, where they are sourced, and the company’s commitment to being more eco-friendly. A sensory journey Creating a total concept will be critical in capturing consumers’ attention, particularly in this highly saturated category. For example, a fragrance that is spicy and sexy but is packaged in an earthy looking green bottle wouldn’t make a lot of sense. If a fragrance smells spicy, it should look and feel spicy too. The concept, packaging, and fragrance will need to work together to create a cohesive product that appeals to all the senses. Engaging the senses beyond smell like offering a tactile package, a visual cue to the type of fragrance in the bottle, and maybe even some sort of sound (like music) will start engaging consumers long before they actually smell the fragrance. Fine fragrances already showcase artistic packaging, but taking it to the next level by offering a package that supports a concept, helps differentiate the product on the shelf, and promises to deliver a fantastic fragrance will enhance the consumer experience and hopefully create brand loyalty. For line extensions, a fragrance needs to support the benefits and ingredients. Fragrances have the power to elevate the perception of increased functionality when used properly. A moisturizer needs to deliver on the consumer’s expectation of moisturization and the right fragrance can help the product deliver on the intended function. For example, citrus or fruity fragrances communicate freshness, which works well for cleansing products like shampoo and body wash, while comforting scents like vanilla or soft florals communicate skincare benefits like moisture or repair. This idea will be increasingly important as fragrances go beyond just scent and provide added benefits like anti-aging, stress relief, and even appetite suppression. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 28 Trend Applications Fragrances US, September 2012 Trend Applications Mintel’s approach in this section goes beyond merely identifying trends. Trends from Mintel Inspire are applied to understand the wider implications of cultural changes, gaining insight into how companies and brands can translate these into on-the-ground opportunities relevant for the fragrance market. Trend: Mood to Order Today, research into the mood-manipulating qualities of certain ingredients, scents, sounds, and even lighting levels is getting deeply scientific—and widely adopted. The beauty industry is reaching beyond aromatherapy into the realms of psychology and neurology, while schools and adolescent psychologists alike are exploring ways to improve youths’ dispositions via scented classrooms and “brain food”-heavy diets. Here is how the trend Mood to Order can be used in the fragrance market. While the concept of aromatherapy is not new to the fragrance industry, (think calming lavender soap or energizing citrus body wash), elevating scent to a multisensory experience is likely going to be the next generation in fragrance. As illustrated in the Insights and Opportunities section, engaging consumers beyond just a nice smelling fragrance and offering them a full product concept is an exciting way to attract consumers before they even smell the fragrance. Adding to the appeal of multisensory products is the concept of mood enhancement. This idea has gained popularity in the beverage industry, with the suggestion that ingesting certain ingredients can impact one’s mood. In fact, ThinQ just launched a lifestyle drink in March 2012 that claims to contain “an all-natural mood enhancer from substances naturally found in the body.” The Republic of Tea has an entire line based on wellness with variants such as Get Happy and Get Relaxed, which contain different herbal blends to support the highlighted mood or benefit. This concept seems to be resonating with consumers as more products are being launched revolving around the idea of wellness and mood enhancement. Consumer interest is clearly there and expands beyond beverage to the beauty and personal care industry. Mintel’s exclusive consumer research finds that 76% of fragrance wearers are interested in fragrances that are mood boosting, 74% are interested in stress-relieving properties, and 69% are interested in an energy boost. The idea of getting more than just physical benefits from fragrances and expanding into emotional and even psychological benefits is definitely appealing to consumers and offers opportunities for brands to connect with them in an innovative and powerful way. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 29 Trend Applications Fragrances US, September 2012 ThinQ Lifestyle Drink is described as an all natural, multi-function, stress-relieving drink that promotes wellness for health conscious people with a busy, on-the-go style. According to the manufacturer, this is the first beverage on the market that includes SAMe, an all natural mood enhancer from substances naturally found in the body, along with 13 herbs, adaptogens, antioxidants, vitamins, electrolytes and essential minerals.The product does not contain anything artificial, retails in a 12-fl. oz. can and is available in two flavors: Sparkling Citricity; and Sparkling Mixed Berry. The Republic of Tea Be Well Red Teas have a Get Wellness variety that is a caffeine-free herbal blend with organic rooibos, echinacea and astragalus, along with ashwagandha, which is said to increase health and longevity. Also available as varieties are: Get Maternal; Get Passionate; Get Heart for cardiovascular health; Get Happy; Get Relaxed; Get Growing; and Get Smart. This product is kosher certified and gluten free. SOURCE: MINTEL GNPD Trend: Extend My Brand While price has invariably played an enormous role in consumer decision-making, so too has another critical factor: trust. It’s the tried and true brands which have the advantage in that regard. As such, established brands have begun to leverage that trust in new ways; namely, by extending it into new categories. Here is how the trend Extend My Brand can be used in the fragrance market. Trusted fragrance brands like Chanel and Estée Lauder have the advantage of being well-known and trusted in the industry but may have difficulty generating the excitement that new launches from celebrities and fashion houses can sometimes generate. However, in a market where consumer skepticism is high and trust is low, brands have the opportunity to leverage that trust by extending their brand into other categories and even identifying co-branding opportunities. Mintel’s exclusive consumer research finds that 65% of fragrance wearers are interested in scented candles that smell the same as their favorite fragrance, 62% are interested in air fresheners, and 60% in dryer sheets. Extending fragrances in other product categories isn’t entirely new, particularly with candles, but creating a partnership with trusted candle brands, like Yankee Candle or Glade, could be a way to capture consumer interest and leverage their trust across product categories. Additionally, as illustrated in the Competitive Context section, offering fragrance pods containing top-selling fine fragrances that could be added to laundry detergent would be an interesting way to offer an innovative laundry product and extend fine fragrances into the household market. This offers consumers the opportunity to get a whiff of their favorite scent when they want it and an opportunity for fragrances to extend their brand. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 30 Trend Applications Fragrances US, September 2012 2015 Trend: Brand Intervention Mintel has identified four meta trends that are gaining significance and will have the greatest impact on consumers worldwide between now and 2015. Because these trends are affecting both domestic and international markets and industry sectors, they also present the greatest areas of opportunity for companies and brands. The four trends are as follows: Old Gold East Meets West Access Anything Anywhere Brand Intervention As with Mintel Inspire trends, any one the four 2015 trends can be applied to identify opportunities for companies operating within the fragrance industry. For the purposes of this report, Mintel explores how Brand Intervention can be used in the fragrance market. Consumers expect companies to govern on their behalf. This means that those proactive, progressive brands that seek to stay ahead of the ‘state stick’ by doing their bit won’t just avoid penalties; they will win favor with governments and consumers alike. Here is how the trend Brand Intervention can be used in the fragrance market. As outlined in the Issues in the Market section, industry regulations have impacted the fragrance industry, particularly over the past decade, and will continue to be a factor facing the future of the industry. Increased regulation combined with heightened consumer awareness of the safety and sourcing of ingredients often puts the industry under scrutiny. Getting ahead of regulations isn’t always easy (or possible) but proactively addressing concern regarding the safety and sustainability of ingredients will help build consumer trust and improve the perception of the industry as a whole. The fragrance industry uses thousands of ingredients to create scents and some of those ingredients are only available in remote parts of the world or from rare or limited sources. Concern about ingredient sustainability as well as sourcing practices have plagued the industry in the past. Fragrance suppliers, as well as manufacturers, are beginning to take this to heart and be more up front about how and where ingredients are sourced. The Body Shop has embraced this concept by using fair trade ingredients when possible and also sharing sourcing practices. Transparency about where ingredients are sourced as well as highlighting potential allergens help to build consumer confidence in the brand and industry as a whole. Since ingredient labels are already very small as more information is trying to be added, including a QR code that takes consumers directly to the product website with a clear list of ingredients, potential allergens, and detailed information about the product could be a helpful tool to engage consumers and address safety and ingredient concerns. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 31 Trend Applications Fragrances US, September 2012 The Body Shop Coconut Body Mist is said to offer a tropical coconut scent. The product is made with Community Trade organic alcohol from sugar cane grown in Ecuador, without the use of synthetic chemicals or pesticides. It is grown using traditional methods to help preserve the natural beauty and wildlife of the Cotopaxi province. It also contains coconut extract, has not been tested on animals and retails in a 3.3-fl. oz. pack featuring a QR code. SOURCE: MINTEL GNPD © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 32 Market Size and Forecast Fragrances US, September 2012 Market Size and Forecast Key points After sales declines of 12% from 2007-09, the U.S. fragrance market began to show signs of recovery with modest sales growth in 2010 and stronger growth in 2011 and 2012 (est.) The category is expected to reach $3.5 billion by the end of 2012, with positive growth predicted in the category through 2017. Industry growth is strong with fragrance suppliers and manufacturers reporting solid increases in sales. Growth appears to be driven by a number of factors including an increased number of new product launches, along with increased demand for high end perfumes, eco-friendly scents, and customized scents. Sales continue to recover after sharp declines during recession The fragrance industry took a big hit during the recession, experiencing nearly a 12% decline through 2009. However, with improving economic stability along with increased product launches and promotions, the category is experiencing an improved outlook. Due to estimated growth of 6% in 2012, the industry is expected to reach more than $3.5 billion in sales by the end of the year. Category expected to see sales growth through 2017 Growth in the category is a bit more optimistic than seen just one year ago. Based on sales trends seen over the past five years, Mintel’s Fragrances—U.S., September 2011 predicted sales to once again decline in 2012. However, 2012 has been a strong year for the industry with growth driven by sales in specialty beauty retailers along with an increased number of product launches (see Innovations and Innovators), thus resulting in a strong 2012 estimate. Major fragrance suppliers are reporting healthy sales growth, which indicates increased retailer and consumer interest in the category, likely resulting in steady sales growth over the next five years. Sales and forecast of fragrances FIGURE 10: TOTAL U.S. RETAIL SALES AND FORECAST OF FRAGRANCES, AT CURRENT PRICES, 2007-17 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 (est.) 2013 (fore.) 2014 (fore.) 2015 (fore.) 2016 (fore.) 2017 (fore.) $million % change Index (2007 = 100) Index (2012 = 100) 3,377 3,100 2,981 3,066 3,311 3,510 3,657 3,869 4,080 4,295 4,482 -8.2 -3.8 2.9 8.0 6.0 4.2 5.8 5.5 5.3 4.4 100 92 88 91 98 104 108 115 121 127 133 96 88 85 87 94 100 104 110 116 122 128 SOURCE: MINTEL/BASED ON SYMPHONYIRI INFOSCAN® REVIEWS; U.S. CENSUS BUREAU, ECONOMIC CENSUS © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 33 Market Size and Forecast Fragrances US, September 2012 Sales of fragrances at inflation-adjusted prices reflect an increase of 4.2% in estimated 2012, though the category is still recovering from declines in 2008, and down 6% for the period 2007-12 (est.), the category is expected to see continued growth through 2017. FIGURE 11: TOTAL U.S. RETAIL SALES AND FORECAST OF FRAGRANCES, AT INFLATION-ADJUSTED PRICES, 2007-17 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 (est.) 2013 (fore.) 2014 (fore.) 2015 (fore.) 2016 (fore.) 2017 (fore.) $million % change Index (2006 = 100) Index (2011 = 100) 3,728 3,296 3,180 3,218 3,369 3,510 3,604 3,758 3,895 4,019 4,104 na -11.6 -3.5 1.2 4.7 4.2 2.7 4.3 3.7 3.2 2.1 100 88 85 86 90 94 97 101 104 108 110 106 94 91 92 96 100 103 107 111 115 117 SOURCE: MINTEL/BASED ON SYMPHONYIRI INFOSCAN® REVIEWS; U.S. CENSUS BUREAU, ECONOMIC CENSUS Fan chart forecast Mintel has produced this forecast using advanced statistical techniques including stepwise, multivariate regression, and the autoregressive procedure using the statistical software package SPSS. The model is based on historical market size data taken from Mintel’s own market size database and supplemented by published macroeconomic and demographic data from various private and public sources including the Federal Reserve Board, the U.S. Commerce Department, the Census Bureau, the Council of Economic Advisers, and the Congressional Budget Office. The model searches for relationships between actual market sizes and a selection of relevant and significant macroeconomic and demographic determinants (independent variables) to identify those predictors having the most influence on the market. For the forecast of fragrances the following predictor variable(s) were used in the forecast: consumer expenditure, gross domestic product per capita, and disposable personal income per capita. Next to historical market sizes and a current year estimate, the fan chart illustrates the probability of various outcomes for the market value of fragrances over the next five years. The future uncertainty within this market is illustrated by the colored bands around the five-year forecast. The widening bands successively show the developments that occur within 95%, 90%, 70%, and 50% probability intervals. Statistical processes predict the central forecast to fall within the darker shaded area, which illustrates 50% probability (i.e., a five in 10 chance). At a 95% confidence interval, Mintel is saying that 95 out of 100 times, the forecast will fall within these outer limits, which Mintel calls the best- and worst-case forecasts, as these, based on the statistically driven forecast, are the highest (best case) and lowest (worst case) market sizes the market is expected to achieve. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 34 Market Size and Forecast Fragrances US, September 2012 The best and worst case forecasts take the value of fragrances from an estimated $3.5 billion in 2012, to $5.7 billion (best case) and $3.2 billion (worst case) in 2017. Based on the forecast derived above, however, Mintel expects the market to grow to a total of $4.5 billion in 2017. FIGURE 12: TOTAL U.S. SALES AND FAN CHART FORECAST OF FRAGRANCES, AT CURRENT PRICES, 2007-17 7,000 Total Sales($ millions) 6,000 Best case (million) $5,748 5,000 Mintel forecast (million) 4,482 (million) 3,510 4,000 Worst case (million) $3,216 3,000 2,000 Confidence intervals 1,000 00 2007 95% 90% 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 Est. Actual Forecast 70% 50% SOURCE: MINTEL/BASED ON SYMPHONYIRI INFOSCAN® REVIEWS; U.S. CENSUS BUREAU, ECONOMIC CENSUS Walmart sales Considering Food, Drug, and Mass Merchandiser sales including Walmart (FDMW) as measured by IRI InfoScan® and MarketInsightTM for Walmart (i.e., not the total market as shown above), Walmart accounted for 38% of sales of FDMW for the 52 weeks ending June 10, 2012. This share was 41.3% for the 52 weeks ending June 12, 2011. Mintel defines this market by combining, in full or in part, the following IRI segments: Perfumes and colognes/body powder Women’s gift packs Men’s gift packs/sets Shaving lotion/cologne/talc. For more information about sales attributed to Walmart, or SymphonyIRI’s MarketInsightTM for Walmart product, please visit www.symphonyiri.com or email [email protected]. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 35 Market Drivers Fragrances US, September 2012 Market Drivers Key points Fragrance use is largely driven by age, representing challenges for the fragrance industry as participation in the category decreases with age. Due to anticipated population growth of 16.5% among 55-64 year olds and 21.3% among 65-74 year olds over the next five years, the fragrance industry will need to keep age trends in mind to ensure their products are reflecting the needs of this shifting consumer base. Growth among the Hispanic and Asian populations is expected to outpace the growth of the overall population over the next five years. This is great news for the fragrance industry as these ethnic groups over index usage in the majority of fragrance categories. While economic recovery has been slow, indicated by continued high unemployment and low consumer confidence, the fragrance industry is showing signs of rebounding. The slow recovery may be driving some consumers to keep a tighter rein on spending due to the high usage of lower-priced line extensions. However, specialty beauty and other higher end retailers are actually showing the greatest signs of growth. Aging population creates challenges for the fragrance industry As the aging population is expected to swell over the next five years, challenges to keep this consumer engaged in the category will continue to rise. As illustrated in the Fragrance Usage section of this report, use of virtually all fragrance categories decreases with age. However, categories like scented body powder and aftershave are the exception and show consistent usage across all age groups. Some 32% of women 55+ use scented body powder, compared to 30% of the total population, and 55% of men 55+ use aftershave, compared to 56% of all men. While the aging population does represent challenges to the industry, it also creates opportunities. With 45% of women aged 35-54 and 38% of men aged 35-54 reporting that they feel more confident when wearing a fragrance (see Attitudes toward Wearing Fragrance), building on that confidence could lead to stronger brand loyalty and increased use as these consumers age. Emphasizing confidence could be a key brand attribute as consumers are staying in the work force longer and often competing with their younger counterparts. Associating fragrance with confidence is one way brands could connect with these older consumers. While scented body powder and aftershave may be tied to tradition and considered a regular part of a grooming routine, manufacturers could encourage increased use by offering these products in classic scents or signature scents, which are more likely to be preferred by older consumers (see Attitudes toward Wearing Fragrance). Additionally, adding benefits like anti-aging or mood boosting to these forms, as well as other fragrance forms, could be a way to further engage older consumers and help meet their changing needs. As indicated in the Interest in Product Innovation section, 69% of women and 63% of men aged 35-54 are interested in fragrances with anti-aging benefits. These numbers fall slightly for consumers aged 55+ but still represent the majority with 60% of women and 54% of men expressing interest in this innovation. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 36 Market Drivers Fragrances US, September 2012 Combining consumer relevant benefits with appealing product forms could be an opportunity for the fragrance industry to curb some of the usage declines often seen with age in this multibillion-dollar industry. FIGURE 13: U.S. POPULATION, BY AGE, 2007-17 2007 000 % 2012 000 % 2017 000 % 2012-17 % change <5 5-14 15-24 25-34 35-44 45-54 55-64 65-74 75+ 20,603 40,250 42,694 40,877 43,298 43,932 32,737 19,349 18,485 6.8 13.3 14.1 13.5 14.3 14.5 10.8 6.4 6.1 21,490 42,009 43,757 43,009 41,025 44,269 38,147 23,465 19,095 6.8 13.3 13.8 13.6 13.0 14.0 12.1 7.4 6.0 22,413 44,106 43,628 45,250 41,928 42,805 41,921 29,088 20,692 6.8 13.3 13.1 13.6 12.6 12.9 12.6 8.8 6.2 4.3 4.4 2.5 5.2 -5.2 0.8 16.5 21.3 3.3 Total 302,226 100.0 316,266 100.0 331,833 100.0 4.6 Age Note: Data may not equal totals due to rounding SOURCE: MINTEL/U.S. CENSUS BUREAU, INTERIM POPULATION PROJECTIONS RELEASED 2008 (POPULATION IN 2012 AND 2017) AND ANNUAL JULY 1 POPULATION ESTIMATES (POPULATION IN 2007) Hispanic and Asian populations are growing and engaged in the category The face of the American consumer is changing beyond just shifting age demographics. The Asian and Hispanic populations are predicted to experience 14.2% and 15.6% growth, respectively, over the next five years compared to the 4.9% total population growth. This is good news for the fragrance industry as these ethnic groups are significantly more likely than the total population to report using virtually all fragrance forms (see Race and Hispanic Origin). Additionally, Asians and Hispanics report a higher than average interest in trying new fragrance benefits such as anti-aging and new forms like a scented chewing gum (see Race and Hispanic Origin). While it’s no secret that reaching these consumers is critical, advertising product benefits that resonate with them is just as important. According to Mintel’s Marketing to Multicultural Young Adults—U.S., May 2012 report, Asians and Hispanics aged 18-24 are more likely than total respondents to find celebrity spokespeople compelling, suggesting that these may be groups for whom the right celebrity spokespeople can be more effective. Given the continued popularity of celebrity fragrances, targeting messages to this younger, ethnic consumer could be particularly effective. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 37 Market Drivers Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 14: U.S. POPULATION, BY RACE/HISPANIC ORIGIN 2007-17 2007 000 % 2012 000 % 2017 000 % 2012-17 % change Race Asian Black White Other* 13,561 38,771 241,547 8,347 4. 5 12. 8 79. 9 2. 8 15,246 40,790 250,449 9,781 4. 8 12. 9 79. 2 3. 1 17,405 43,040 260,273 11,116 5. 2 13. 0 78. 4 3. 3 14.2 5.5 3.9 13.6 Hispanic origin Hispanic Non-Hispanic 45,787 256,439 15. 1 84. 9 52,843 263,422 16. 7 83. 3 61,088 270,746 18. 4 81. 6 15.6 2.8 Total 302,226 100. 0 316,266 100. 0 331,833 100. 0 4.9 * includes American Indian/Alaska native, native Hawaiian/other Pacific Islander, and two or more races Numbers may not equal totals because of rounding. SOURCE: MINTEL/U.S. CENSUS BUREAU, INTERIM POPULATION PROJECTIONS RELEASED 2008 (POPULATION IN 2012 AND 2017) AND ANNUAL JULY 1 POPULATION ESTIMATES (POPULATION IN 2007) Economic recovery slow but fragrance category growing Consumer confidence is still low when compared to 2006, but it is on the rise. Also, while unemployment numbers remain high, consumer spending is increasing and the fragrance category is once again seeing growth after experiencing declines during the recession. Although economic insecurity remains a big issue, luxury fragrances and specialty beauty retailers are at the core of growth in the category. FIGURE 15: THOMSON REUTERS/UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN’S INDEX OF CONSUMER SENTIMENT, 2006-Q2 2012 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 March June September December Average of these 4 months 88.9 92.2 69.5 57.3 73.6 67.5 76.2 83.8 86.9 56.4 70.8 76.0 71.5 73.2 84.0 83.4 70.3 73.5 68.2 59.4 - 92.5 75.5 60.1 72.5 74.5 69.9 - 92.5 84.5 64.0 68.5 73.1 67.1 - Note: The index offers a gauge of consumer confidence for the upcoming six months based on a survey of 500 households SOURCE: MINTEL/THOMSON REUTERS/UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN SURVEY OF CONSUMERS An interesting dichotomy is taking place in the category—lower-priced, value added items such as shower gels and scented body lotions have the highest penetration and new product trends indicate continued popularity of these forms. However, high-priced perfumes and the success of the “other” retailer segment, likely driven by specialty beauty retailers, appear to be driving growth in the category (see Retail Channels). © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 38 Market Drivers Fragrances US, September 2012 While difficult to assess what is driving this phenomenon, disposable income is generally higher among older consumers who may be willing to spend for luxury or signature scents in traditional forms like eau de parfum (EDP) or cologne (which are often more expensive). Younger consumers are more likely to experiment with a variety of scents (see Attitudes toward Fragrance), and generally have less disposable income. Specialty beauty retailers like Bath & Body Works offer a variety of scented products in lowerpriced forms like scented lotions, appealing to the core consumer of young women. These consumers may be swapping drug store purchases with specialty retailers due to the availability of lower-priced forms along with the expansive choice of scents simply not available in traditional FDMx retailers. FIGURE 16: DPI, 2007-MARCH 2012 8% 6% 5% 6% 4% 4% 3% 2% 2% 0% 1% 0% -2% -1% -4% -2% -6% -3% J-07 M-07 S-07 J-08 M-08 S-08 J-09 M-09 S-09 J-10 M-10 S-10 J-11 M-11 S-11 J-12 M-12 Change from Year Ago Percent Change from Previous Month SOURCE: ST. LOUIS FEDERAL RESERVE Bath and shower products contribute to category growth While bath and shower products are not included in the fragrance market size, these products clearly contribute to category sales as they are often purchased based on the type of fragrance they provide. According to Mintel’s Soap, Bath, and Shower Products—U.S., April 2012, demand for special product attributes, including extra moisturization, fragrance, and antibacterial properties, has helped grow sales in 2012. Additionally, the availability of products with complimenting scents like a matching shower gel, lotion, and body spray could be driving growth. Increased demand among men for soap and shower products that specifically cater to them and differ from women’s products—such as Axe and Old Spice body wash brands—is also fueling sales. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 39 Market Drivers Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 17: TOTAL U.S. RETAIL SALES AND FORECAST OF SOAP, BATH, AND SHOWER PRODUCTS, AT CURRENT PRICES, 2006-16 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 (est.) 2012 (fore.) 2013 (fore.) 2014 (fore.) 2015 (fore.) 2016 (fore.) $million % change Index (2006 = 100) Index (2011 = 100) 3,799 3,932 4,254 4,393 4,326 4,416 4,525 4,617 4,707 4,796 4,892 3.5 8.2 3.3 -1.5 2.1 2.5 2.0 1.9 1.9 2.0 100 103 112 116 114 116 119 122 124 126 129 86 89 96 99 98 100 102 105 107 109 111 SOURCE: MINTEL/BASED ON SYMPHONYIRI GROUP INFOSCAN® REVIEWS; U.S. CENSUS BUREAU, ECONOMIC CENSUS Within soap, bath, and shower products, liquid body wash represents the largest segment in the market, with sales of $1.9 billion in estimated 2011, a slight increase over 2010 sales. In fact, liquid body wash has grown each year between 2006 and 2011, with the exception of 2010, which reflected a fractional slip of 0.5%. The conveniences of body wash, as well as the marketing blitzes that have accompanied best-selling brands such as Axe and Old Spice (focusing on men), have resulted in substantial overall growth for the segment, likely to the detriment of other segments such as deodorant bar soap. The wide range of scents available in body wash also makes it more appealing, allowing consumers the opportunity to experience fragrance while getting clean. However, just launching a new fragrance variant is no longer enough to generate sales growth, as the category is saturated with choice. Adding functional benefits like moisturizing and deodorizing properties appear to be the next generation of body wash. Also, while traditionally fine fragrances get extended into lower cost, body care items, manufacturers may want to try the opposite approach and extend popular body wash fragrances into body sprays or even fine fragrances. As consumers may be shopping for these body care products anyway, giving them the opportunity to layer scent could be an opportunity. FIGURE 18: TOTAL U.S. RETAIL SALES AND FORECAST OF LIQUID BODY WASH, AT CURRENT PRICES, 2006-16 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 (est.) 2012 (fore.) 2013 (fore.) 2014 (fore.) 2015 (fore.) 2016 (fore.) $million % change Index (2006 = 100) Index (2011 = 100) 1,391 1,542 1,801 1,886 1,877 1,914 1,994 2,064 2,125 2,181 2,251 10.8 16.8 4.7 -0.5 2.0 4.1 3.5 3.0 2.6 3.2 100 111 129 136 135 138 143 148 153 157 162 73 81 94 99 98 100 104 108 111 114 118 SOURCE: MINTEL/BASED ON SYMPHONYIRI GROUP INFOSCAN® REVIEWS; U.S. CENSUS BUREAU, ECONOMIC CENSUS © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 40 Competitive Context Fragrances US, September 2012 Competitive Context Body care products add fragrance and skincare benefits Liquid shower gels remain a big opportunity as the category continues to experience growth and is the largest segment in the soap, bath, and shower product category (see Mintel’s Soap, Bath, and Shower Products—U.S., April 2012). According to that report, more than a third chose soap/bath products mainly by scent. As discussed throughout this report, usage of line extension items like shower gel and scented body lotions have higher penetration and usage frequency when compared to more traditional fragrance forms (see Product Usage). This is likely driven by their lower-price point combined with the added skin benefits of cleansing or moisturization. These product forms are appealing to consumers who want to experiment with scent without investing in more expensive forms. They also appeal to those who want a lighter scent than traditionally offered in EDPs and cologne. Although it’s hard to quantify the exact impact of scented body care products on the fine fragrance market, the popularity of scented body items is undeniable. Undoubtedly, as economic struggles continue for many consumers, getting scent from lower-priced body care items is certainly appealing. As further illustrated by Mintel’s Soap, Bath, and Shower Products—U.S., April 2012, 72% of soap/body wash users claim scent is important with that number jumping to 82% of 18-24 year olds. While that number drops for lotion users, with only 28% claiming scent as important, scent is still clearly a driver for more than a quarter of users. Some consumers are “scent seekers” and look for fragranced products across a variety of forms and categories, giving them the opportunity to “layer” scent. At the same time, some consumers may be trading down to these lower-priced body care items in order to get scent and skincare benefits without the hefty price tag often associated with fine fragrance. With high levels of consumer interest being expressed in both added product benefits as well as line extensions, the fragrance industry has an opportunity to extend its brands across categories while adding increased functionality, and ultimately improving value perception (see Interest in Product Innovations). Opportunity for the fragrance market: While many fine fragrances do offer flanker items like body lotions or shower gels, they generally don’t receive the promotion received by the star fragrance. Additionally, these formulas don’t always offer the functionality seen in mass products. Fine fragrances could potentially co-brand with popular mass brands to leverage their fragrance in successful skincare products by offering consumers the functional benefits of these products combined with their favorite premium scent. This likely isn’t a strategy appropriate for ultra-luxe fragrances as associating with mass retail products could potentially dilute the cachet or exclusivity of a brand. However, with many brands being available in both FDMx and at specialty retailers’, partnering with mass personal care brands is a relatively easy jump, particularly since many manufacturers, such as Unilever, own a variety of mass personal care brands and fine fragrance brands. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 41 Competitive Context Fragrances US, September 2012 Consumers seeking scent through laundry Scent seekers are finding fragrance options extending into categories typically seen as functional and less experiential. Laundry detergents, fabric softeners, and even dish soaps are offering a variety of fragrance options. Laundry brand Gain has embraced this concept by offering fragrance varieties like Sunflower & Sunshine, Butterfly Kiss, and Apple Mango Tango and packaging them in bright bottles to clearly emphasize the fragrance aspect of the products. Gain Sunflower & Sunshine Scented Laundry Detergent with Febreze Freshness features FreshLock technology, which is said to provide fantastic freshness even after two weeks. Suitable for regular and high-efficiency machines, the phosphate-free product retails in a 100-fl. oz. pack, sufficient for 48 loads. The packaging is made from 25% or more post-consumer recycled plastic. SOURCE: MINTEL GNPD Scent is definitely a factor when consumers are selecting laundry detergent as indicated in Mintel’s Home Laundry Products—U.S., June 2011, with 66% of respondents claiming scent is important, and that number is even higher with respondents younger than 35. However, due to the maturity of the laundry market combined with the increasing popularity of private label and low-price brands, just offering a new fragrance option often cannibalizes existing business without providing new sales growth or innovation. Again, some consumers are “scent seekers” and will look for scent in any product, giving them the opportunity to experiment with a variety of scents across many categories. However, as fine fragrance is not usually considered a “necessity” as opposed to household and laundry items, consumers may be satisfied with getting scent from items that they need to purchase anyway. The added value of scent in functional products may help cash-strapped consumers get the fragrance experience they enjoy without spending more, ultimately resulting in decreased usage or purchase occasions of higher-priced fragrance items. Opportunity for the fragrance market: As suggested in the Interest in Product Innovation section of this report, there is definite consumer interest in dryer sheets and laundry detergents that smell the same as a consumer’s favorite fragrance. While not knowing what consumers consider to be their “favorite fragrance” (it could mean favorite perfume or just favorite smell like vanilla), opportunities exist to create a more upscale, experiential fragrance experience for consumers. Perhaps offering fragrance pods containing top selling fine fragrances that consumers could add to their laundry detergent would be an interesting way to offer an innovative laundry product and extend fine fragrances into the household market. This offers consumers the opportunity to add fragrance “just when they want it” as well as creates strong co-branding opportunities for both fragrance and laundry brands. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 42 Competitive Context Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 19: INTEREST IN PRODUCT INNOVATIONS—SCENT EXTENSIONS—ANY INTERESTED, MAY 2012 “How interested would you be in the following?” Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances Scent extensions: Dryer sheets that smell the same as my favorite fragrance Laundry detergents that smell the same as my favorite fragrance All 1,529 % 60 58 SOURCE: MINTEL Experiencing fragrance without wearing it Going beyond adding fragrance to your body and clothes, consumers want their environments to smell good as well. According to Mintel’s Candles—U.S., August 2012, 73% of consumers use candles for burning, and the majority of them burn scented candles with only 7% preferring unscented candles. While the candle industry is experiencing declines, luxury candles that are only available at high end retailers, like the one launched by fashion designer Jason Wu, are generating buzz. As mentioned previously, it’s difficult to quantify the impact that candles and air fresheners have on fine fragrances, but the popularity of these items is certainly strong. These products offer consumers a lower cost way to experience scent while adding a décor element to their homes. The perceived added benefit of scent and home décor may be leading some consumers to trade out their fine fragrance for a candle or air freshener. On the flip side, household fragrance items allow consumers who typically don’t wear fragrance due to skin sensitivities to experience their favorite fragrance without having direct contact with the product. Opportunity for the fragrance market: Opportunities to co-brand popular fine fragrances with candles and air fresheners could generate consumer excitement. As seen in the Interest in Product Innovations section, 65% of consumers express interest in scented candles and 62% express interest in air fresheners both containing their favorite fragrance. Leveraging popular fine fragrances in air freshening products could appeal to consumers who want to experience their favorite fragrance in a variety of ways as well as consumers that like fragrance but don’t want to apply it directly to their skin due it skin sensitivities or allergies sometimes associated with fragrance. Co-branding with popular candle and air freshener brands in both mass and prestige, like Glade or Yankee Candles, is a great way to extend fragrances into products that are already associated with high quality. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 43 Competitive Context Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 20: INTEREST IN PRODUCT INNOVATIONS—SCENT EXTENSIONS—ANY INTERESTED, MAY 2012 “How interested would you be in the following?” Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances Scent extensions: Scented candles that smell the same as my favorite fragrance Air fresheners that smell the same as my favorite fragrance All 1,529 % 65 62 SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 44 Segment Performance Fragrances US, September 2012 Segment Performance Key points Both the women’s and men’s segments have experienced sales growth since 2010, primarily driven by specialty beauty and “other” retailers outside of FDMx. The women’s segment holds the majority of the market share at 64.2% and is gaining share while the men’s segment is showing a small decline in overall market share. However, the men’s segment is seeing stronger performance at the FDMx level due to the continued growth and popularity of “male-specific” personal care products. Women’s and men’s segments showing healthy growth Mintel expects that the women’s fragrance segment will reach a 64.2% share of the fragrance category by the end of 2012, which is a slight gain in share from 2010. Meanwhile, while the men’s segment is showing sales growth, it is expected to lose market share to women’s fragrances from 2010-12. The category as a whole is on an upswing, with consumers appearing to trade up to more specialty and higherpriced items as well as increased product launch activity in the women’s and unisex (segment not tracked in FDMx) segments, likely offering an explanation for the shifts in market share. Sales of fragrances, by segment FIGURE 21: SALES OF FRAGRANCES, SEGMENTED BY TYPE, 2010 AND 2012 2010 2012 (est.) $million Share of market % $million Share of market % Change in sales 2010-12 % Women's Men's 1,935 1,131 63.1 36.9 2,253 1,257 64.2 35.8 14.1 10.0 Total 3,066 100.0 3,510 100.0 12.6 SOURCE: MINTEL/BASED ON SYMPHONYIRI INFOSCAN® REVIEWS; U.S. CENSUS BUREAU, ECONOMIC CENSUS © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 45 Segment Performance—Women’s Fragrance Fragrances US, September 2012 Segment Performance—Women’s Fragrance Key points The women’s fragrance segment grew 9% from 2007-12 (est.) and is forecast to see continued gains through 2017, though growth rates are anticipated to slow. New product activity combined with the strong performance of specialty beauty and “other” retailers outside of FMDx is responsible for segment growth. The segment holds the majority of the market share and is expected to see gains in share. Women’s fragrance segment healthy and growing The sales forecast for this segment was rather cautious just one year ago, but healthy sales thus far in 2012 have led to a more optimistic outlook for women’s fragrance. Declines in new product development combined with unstable economic conditions led to decreased sales and participation in the segment over recent years. As women are not very brand loyal, with only 20% of female consumers indicating loyalty to one brand (see Mintel’s Fragrances—U.S, September 2011), new product launches are key in attracting consumer attention and propelling growth. As new product development picks up (see Innovations and Innovators), along with women trading up to higher-priced items, sales growth is expected to increase. Continued product innovation will be paramount in attracting and keeping the attention of women as the majority of them are not brand loyal and enjoy switching between a variety of scents (see Attitudes toward Fragrance). Also, as indicated in the Interest in Product Innovations section, both women and men express high levels of interest in added benefits, new forms, and scent extension, making the category prime for new product innovation. While celebrity fragrances are clearly here to stay and contributing to category sales, customized fragrances based on cities, destinations, and even art are creating a more authentic fragrance experience. Natural, eco-friendly, and high end perfumes are also driving growth in the category. Sales and forecast of women’s fragrance FIGURE 22: SALES AND FORECAST OF WOMEN’S FRAGRANCE, AT CURRENT PRICES, 2007-17 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 (est.) 2013 (fore.) 2014 (fore.) 2015 (fore.) 2016 (fore.) 2017 (fore.) $million % change Index (2007 = 100) Index (2012 = 100) 2,070 1,907 1,848 1,935 2,109 2,253 2,375 2,518 2,632 2,754 2,857 na -7.9 -3.1 4.7 9.0 6.8 5.4 6.0 4.5 4.6 3.8 100 92 89 93 102 109 115 122 127 133 138 92 85 82 86 94 100 105 112 117 122 127 SOURCE: MINTEL/BASED ON SYMPHONYIRI INFOSCAN® REVIEWS; U.S. CENSUS BUREAU, ECONOMIC CENSUS © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 46 Segment Performance—Men’s Fragrance Fragrances US, September 2012 Segment Performance—Men’s Fragrance Key points Due to projected growth of 4.6% in 2012, the men’s segment appears to be healthy, with sales gains projected through 2017. However, despite strong growth in 2011 and 2012, the men’s segment has lost share to women’s fragrances from 2010-12. New product growth and specialty retailer success has helped the men’s segment, but with the influx of “male-specific” products in FDMx, the men’s segment is seeing stronger performance in traditional retail channels than women’s fragrances. Since men are more likely than women to shop for fragrances at FDMx channels (see Retail Channels), opportunities to create “man aisles” as well as increase product offerings dedicated to solving the grooming needs of men exist in these channels. Men’s segment strong, but still recovering Men’s fragrances began to see a turnaround in 2011, but sales are not yet at the levels seen in 2007, with the segment down 4% in the period 2007-12 (est.). While the women’s segment has been propelled by growth in specialty retail and higher-priced items, the men’s segment is seeing stronger success with lower-priced items like body sprays and shower gels from power players like Axe and Old Spice in FDMx (see Brand Share). The steady pace of new product introductions in recent years, particularly in comparison to the women’s segment, which saw steep declines, has led to steadier (albeit less dramatic) growth for the segment in 2011-12 (est.). Mintel forecasts strong growth for the segment, driven by continued new product launches and activity in the “male-specific” category in FDMx retail channels. Sales and forecast of men’s fragrance FIGURE 23: SALES AND FORECAST OF MEN’S FRAGRANCE, AT CURRENT PRICES, 2007-17 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 (est.) 2013 (fore.) 2014 (fore.) 2015 (fore.) 2016 (fore.) 2017 (fore.) $million % change Index (2007 = 100) Index (2012 = 100) 1,307 1,194 1,133 1,131 1,202 1,257 1,282 1,351 1,448 1,541 1,625 na -8.6 -5.1 -0.2 6.3 4.6 2.0 5.4 7.2 6.4 5.4 100 91 87 87 92 96 98 103 111 118 124 104 95 90 90 96 100 102 107 115 123 129 SOURCE: MINTEL/BASED ON SYMPHONYIRI INFOSCAN® REVIEWS; U.S. CENSUS BUREAU, ECONOMIC CENSUS © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 47 Retail Channels Fragrances US, September 2012 Retail Channels Key points The “other” segment dominates sales of fragrances, representing an 83% market share in 2012, and reflecting sales growth since 2010. Such dominance is largely due to the wide range of purchase locations including high end retailers like specialty beauty and department stores as well as value-driven retailers like supercenters and warehouse clubs. Drug stores are the top FDMx outlet for fragrance sales, though they are experiencing the steepest declines among all retail channels, at 7.4% over the period 2010-12 (est.) Supermarkets remain a relatively small segment and continue to struggle in the fragrance category with a predicted total market share of only 3.7% in 2012. Growth driven by “other” channels, leads category in sales growth After posting sales declines during the recession, the fragrance category is rebounding with sales in both the women’s and men’s segment on the upswing, and continued sales growth predicted through 2017 (see Segment Performance). However, FDMx channels are losing market share to “other” channels, most likely to high end retailers like specialty beauty and department stores, particularly in the women’s segment. The women’s segment is seeing an increase in new product introductions as well as increased interest in higher-priced items (see Innovations and Innovators), likely having a negative impact on FDMx retailers. Despite stronger commitment to beauty, drug stores lose share While major drug store chains like Duane Reade and Walgreens have invested in making their beauty departments bigger and better, as well as expanding their grocery offerings in an attempt to make them a one-stop shopping destination, drug stores posted the steepest dollar declines in the period 2010-12 (est.). As previously mentioned, new product launches, particularly of higher-priced items, have sent consumers to specialty beauty and other premium retailers when seeking out fragrance. However, drug stores remain the preferred channel for purchasing fragrance, particularly among men (see Purchase Locations). As men are more likely to seek the convenience offered by drug stores, combined with the continued popularity of lower-priced, male-specific personal care items like body sprays and scented shower gels, drug stores do have an opportunity to appeal to the male consumer. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 48 Retail Channels Fragrances US, September 2012 Sales of fragrances, by channel FIGURE 24: SALES OF FRAGRANCES, BY CHANNEL, 2010 AND 2012 2010 Market share 2012 (est.) Market share $million % $million % Change in sales 2010-12 % Supermarkets Drug stores Other 135 503 2,428 4.4 16.4 79.2 130 468 2,912 3.7 13.3 83.0 -4.5 -7.4 16.6 Total 3,066 100.0 3,510 100.0 12.6 Note: Other retail channels include department stores, cosmetics/beauty supply stores, supercenters, warehouse clubs, non-store retailers, etc. SOURCE: MINTEL/BASED ON SYMPHONYIRI GROUP INFOSCAN REVIEWS; U.S. CENSUS BUREAU ECONOMIC CENSUS © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 49 Retail Channels—Supermarkets Fragrances US, September 2012 Retail Channels—Supermarkets Key points Supermarkets represent the smallest retail channel for fragrances and continue to struggle, with dollar sales declining 18% since 2007. Limited product selection, along with not being viewed as a fragrance destination, are a few factors impacting the performance of fragrance at supermarkets. Supermarket sales continue to decline Supermarkets represent the smallest share of fragrance sales, and have been posting steady declines since 2007. As specialty beauty retailers proliferate, along with a vast array of retailers selling fragrance, supermarkets aren’t seen as a beauty destination. Additionally, product selection is often limited and prices are usually not competitive with other FDMx retailers. However, as seen with drug stores, supermarkets are more popular with younger men, with 69% of those aged 18-34 reporting making fragrance purchases at supermarkets, compared to 43% of total fragrance wearers (see Purchase Locations). Creating a “man aisle” destination at supermarkets could appeal to men looking for convenient, one-stop shopping. Illustrating this idea, Westside Market, a grocery store in New York City, recently created a “man aisle,” offering products traditionally geared toward men like beer, barbecue sauce, chips, and razors. As discussed in the New York Post, July 26, 2012, “It’s your essentials… It’s your water, alcohol, soaps, shampoos, deodorants, razors.” – Ian Joskowitz, Chief Operating Officer of Westside Market NYC As further stated in the New York Post article, “guys don’t like taking shopping lists, (having everything in one place) helps them remember what they need.” Including items like cologne or body spray in this “man aisle” could make fragrance be seen as an “essential” purchase. Supermarket sales of fragrances FIGURE 25: SUPERMARKET SALES OF FRAGRANCES, AT CURRENT PRICES, 2007-12 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 (est.) $million % change Index (2007 = 100) 157 148 143 135 133 130 -5.9 -3.7 -5.1 -1.9 -2.5 100 94 91 86 84 82 SOURCE: MINTEL/SYMPHONYIRI INFOSCAN REVIEWS © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 50 Retail Channels—Drug Stores Fragrances US, September 2012 Retail Channels—Drug Stores Key points Drug stores are showing steeper declines than other FDMx channels despite efforts to upscale the beauty offerings in many drug store chains. Drug stores appear to be losing share to higher end retailers as consumers are “trading up” to premium and specialty fragrance offerings. As drug stores continue to lose share, opportunities exist to engage men and create a shopping experience more likely to cater to their needs and emphasize the convenience of one-stop shopping. Despite efforts to improve beauty offerings, drug stores lose share Much was made of the efforts of drug store giants like Walgreens, CVS, and Duane Reade to improve beauty offerings and create a more upscale shopping environment. While these efforts have been more effective in categories like color cosmetics, fragrance sales are in decline at these retailers. In fact, CVS recently shuttered its Beauty 360 concept, which was an attempt to offer more premium cosmetic, skincare, and fragrance brands to the consumer in a drug store environment. CVS will instead refocus its efforts on the mass-market beauty business. Drug store most popular retailer for men’s fragrance purchases While drug stores are struggling with fragrance sales overall, opportunities exist to help curb those declines by catering to key consumers. Men state drug stores as their retailer of choice when it comes to buying fragrance (see Purchase Locations). Since drug stores are likely to carry lower-priced fragrances and line extension items like shower gel and body sprays it would make sense that this would be the retailer of choice for men, especially given the strong growth of line extension segments (see Fragrance Usage). Additionally, drug stores offer the convenience of one-stop shopping, no doubt an appealing aspect for men. Creating a male specific destination at drug stores could be fruitful, particularly as more mass retail brands expand into the men’s grooming category. As further detailed in Retail Channels— Supermarkets, Westside Market, a specialty supermarket retailer in New York City, is embracing this concept and taking the idea to fruition. FIGURE 26: DRUG STORE SALES OF FRAGRANCES, AT CURRENT PRICES, 2007-12 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 (est.) $million % change Index (2007 = 100) 540 519 503 503 490 468 -4.0 -3.0 0.0 -2.5 -4.5 100 96 93 93 91 87 SOURCE: MINTEL/SYMPHONY IRI INFOSCAN® REVIEWS © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 51 Retail Channels—Other Retail Channels Fragrances US, September 2012 Retail Channels—Other Retail Channels Key points The “other” segment holds the largest share in the category and is also displaying the strongest growth. Given the large range of retailers in this channel, the size of this channel is to be expected. Category growth appears to be driven by consumers “trading up” to premium brands, often only available at specialty beauty and higher end retailers. Women are likely driving the majority of growth in this segment, as specialty retailers are their preferred retailer. Strong sales in the “other” segment are driving category growth After experiencing declines during the economic recession, the “other” segment started to see things turn around with modest growth in 2010, followed by healthy growth in 2011 and predicted for 2012. Sales are expected to reach $2.9 billion in 2012, increasing 9% over 2007. While this channel encompasses a variety of retailers including supercenters and warehouse clubs, growth is likely driven by specialty beauty and high end retailers. Women more likely to shop specialty beauty over FDMx channels As seen in the Purchase Locations section of this report, specialty retailers are the preferred channel for women making fragrance purchases (particularly younger women). With 86% of women 18-34 shopping at specialty retailers and 40% shopping at Sephora, these retailers are clearly connecting with these women and making themselves a fragrance destination. These retailers offer a large range of scents, brands, and forms, at a wide range of price points, to appeal to the consumer desire to experiment. Specialty retailers like Victoria’s Secret and Bath and Body Works offer a plethora of scents, extended into a variety of forms, allowing women to “layer” their favorite scents. Sephora prominently displays fragrances, encourages sampling, and offers a variety of gift packs, making it a prime destination for fragrance purchases. Improvements in consumer confidence, combined with increased new product launches, point to promising growth prospects for the “other” segment. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 52 Retail Channels—Other Retail Channels Fragrances US, September 2012 Other retail channels sales of fragrances FIGURE 27: OTHER SALES OF FRAGRANCES, AT CURRENT PRICES, 2007-12 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 (est.) $million % change Index (2007 = 100) 2,679 2,433 2,336 2,428 2,688 2,912 -9.2 -4.0 3.9 10.7 8.3 100 91 87 91 100 109 Note: Other retail channels include department stores, cosmetics/beauty supply stores, supercenters, warehouse clubs, non-store retailers, etc. SOURCE: MINTEL/SYMPHONY IRI INFOSCAN® REVIEWS; U.S. CENSUS BUREAU ECONOMIC CENSUS © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 53 Leading Companies Fragrances US, September 2012 Leading Companies Key points Sales have fluctuated among all the leading companies in FDMx, though most are posting declines leading to an overall sales decline in the category of 2.4% in the 52-week period ending June 10, 2012. Unilever and P&G posted the biggest sales gains at FDMx over the 52-week period ending June 10, 2012, driven by the men’s fragrance segment. While remaining the top FDMx company, Coty Beauty continues to see sales declines in FDMx channels. Category showing growth but sales decline in FDMx Retail sales of fragrance fell by 2.4% through FDMx channels for the year ending June 10, 2012. This is consistent with what we are seeing in retail channels where drug stores and supermarkets are in decline while the “other” segment, likely driven by specialty beauty, is posting strong gains. Coty Beauty remains the top company in FDMx but continues to see declines in sales and share. Sales fell by 7.6% in the 52week period ending July 10, 2011 (see Mintel’s Fragrances—U.S., September 2011), and saw further declines of 7.7% in the 52-week period ending June 10, 2012. Sales gains by Unilever and P&G driven by men’s segment Unilever and P&G posted the strongest gains in FDMx at 4.2% and 4%, respectively. Unilever’s Axe and Old Spice by P&G bolstered sales in the men’s fragrance segment. P&G also saw success in the women’s segment with mass brands like Secret as well as fine fragrance brands like Burberry and Giorgio. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 54 Leading Companies Fragrances US, September 2012 Manufacturer sales of fragrances FIGURE 28: FDMX SALES OF FRAGRANCES BY LEADING COMPANIES, 2011 AND 2012 Company 52 weeks ending June 12, 2011 $million Market share Market share % 52 weeks ending June 10, 2012 $million % Change in sales 2011-12 % Share change 2011-12 % point Coty Beauty Unilever Procter & Gamble Elizabeth Arden Inc. Fifth & Pacific Companies, Inc. Parfums De Coeur L'Oréal Estée Lauder Inc. Chattem Inc. Beiersdorf Inc. 167.0 111.5 75.5 59.5 36.6 38.3 37.5 22.3 15.9 16.6 20.4 13.6 9.2 7.3 4.5 4.7 4.6 2.7 1.9 2.0 154.2 116.3 78.5 53.5 35.9 35.3 30.3 20.2 16.3 16.1 19.3 14.5 9.8 6.7 4.5 4.4 3.8 2.5 2.0 2.0 -7.7 4.2 4.0 -10.2 -2.0 -7.7 -19.2 -9.5 3.0 -2.8 -1.1 0.9 0.6 -0.6 0.0 -0.3 -0.8 -0.2 0.1 - Subtotal 580.7 70.8 556.6 69.6 -4.2 -1.2 Other companies 192.7 23.5 198.5 24.8 3.0 1.3 Private label 46.5 5.7 44.8 5.6 -3.7 -0.1 Total 819.9 100.0 799.8 100.0 -2.4 - Data may not equal due to rounding SOURCE: MINTEL/SYMPHONYIRI GROUP INFOSCAN REVIEWS © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 55 Brand Share—Women’s Fragrance Fragrances US, September 2012 Brand Share—Women’s Fragrance Key points The three top companies in the women’s segment of FDMx all posted sales declines over the 52week period ending June 10, 2012. P&G showed the healthiest gains in the women’s segment driven by strong mass beauty brands Secret and Olay. Within the FDMx market, sales of women’s fine fragrances are declining across the board despite FDMx retailer attempts to strengthen their beauty presence. Lower-priced, line extension items from strong mass brands are showing the most success. Women’s fragrance struggles in FDMx After posting an overall decline of 1.8% in the 52 weeks ending July 10, 2011, the FDMx women’s fragrance segment is experiencing stronger declines in the period ending June 10, 2012, with sales falling 3.8%. New celebrity scent offerings like actress Halle Berry’s Reveal infuse short-term growth, but maintaining product sustainability and building brand loyalty is challenging. This is illustrated by the near 50% decline in FDMx sales of Heat by singer Beyoncé. While many of these companies sell outside of FDMx channels, making it difficult to assess total performance of these brands, brand loyalty has remained a challenge across the category. New launches and product innovation waned during the recession as tracked by Mintel GNPD (see Innovations and Innovators), but as the category as a whole is on the upswing, increased product innovations along with increased new product introduction (see Insights and Opportunities) will hopefully inject positive growth into this segment. Also, keep an eye on Elizabeth Arden who recently acquired the global licenses for singers Justin Bieber and Nicki Minaj fragrance brands, making it a serious threat to Coty in the women’s fragrance segment. Mass fragrance products showing signs of success Olay and Secret, two of P&G’s mega-brands, have seen positive gains driven by lower-priced items like body sprays, scented body wash, and scented lotions. Secret has a line of four body sprays that are targeting young women and positioned as “fabulous fun and bold or light, nature-inspired scents,” offering similar fragrances often seen in higher-priced specialty beauty retailers like Victoria’s Secret that are particularly appealing to young women (see Product Usage). Olay has three body collections that each include two body washes, a lotion, and a beauty bar that are based on scents positioned as either “indulgent,” “exotic,” or “clean,” depending on the collection. Again, these collections are very femaleoriented, with attractive packaging, and offer scents frequently seen in higher-priced scented products, along with offering the skincare benefits associated with Olay. Certainly the strong brand equity of Secret and Olay allows them ample shelf space at retailers combined with strong retailer promotions making them visible and available to consumers. Promoting products as ultra-feminine could be effective and offer competition to the higher-priced body sprays, lotions, and shower gels seen in specialty beauty and popular with the younger consumer. The “overtly male” strategy has certainly been successful for Axe and Old Spice in the men’s segment and adopting a similar strategy for women in the FDMx channels could prove beneficial. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 56 Brand Share—Women’s Fragrance Fragrances US, September 2012 Secret Scent Expressions Ooh-La-La Lavender Body Splash is available in newly designed packaging. The body splash is fragranced with the essence of luscious lavender blooms infused with invigorating, sun-drenched lilies. Olay Luscious Embrace Moisturizing Body Wash is available in a newly designed 18-fl. oz. pack. Described as a rich emulsion, the product is formulated with jojoba butter and merges the scent of crushed orchid extract with hints of papaya, blackberry, and black currant. According to the manufacturer, it features a cleansing ribbon paired with a moisturizing ribbon to envelop the body like a botanical-infused steam treatment. Also available is a 12-fl. oz. pack. SOURCE: MINTEL GNPD Struggles continue for Coty Beauty in FDMx Market leader Coty Beauty fell 10.3% in the women’s segment over the 52-week period ending June 10, 2012, due to large declines by Beyonce Heat and Davidoff Cool Water as well as smaller declines posted by several other fine fragrances. The new launch Reveal by Halle Berry will likely infuse some short-term growth but it’s difficult to assess how sustainable that will be. While relatively small, CK One by Calvin Klein posted a small gain of 2% and is line with the unisex trend occurring in the category (see Innovations and Innovators). CK One has been a leader in the dual gender/unisex fragrance category since its launch in 1994. At the time, a unisex fragrance was considered innovative for the category and with the launch of the CK One cosmetic line in Spring 2012, the brand is migrating into categories not typically seen in fragrance. While fragrances have extended into body care products like lotion and shower gel, CK One is expanding into relatively uncharted territory for fragrance by adding color cosmetics to its portfolio. It will be interesting to see how successful this venture is and gauge consumers’ reaction to this move. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 57 Brand Share—Women’s Fragrance Fragrances US, September 2012 Manufacturer sales of women’s fragrances FIGURE 29: FDMX SALES OF WOMEN’S FRAGRANCES BY LEADING COMPANIES, 2011 AND 2012 Company Coty Beauty Elizabeth Arden Inc. Parfums De Coeur Brand 52 weeks ending June 12, 2011 $million Share of segment Share of segment Change in sales 2011-12 Share change 2011-12 % 52 weeks ending June 10, 2012 $million % % % point Total Calvin Klein CK One Beyonce Heat Calvin Klein Eternity Jovan Musk For Women Calvin Klein Obsession Heidi Klum Shine Jovan White Musk Davidoff Cool Water Reveal by Halle Berry Calvin Klein Euphoria Other 93.0 4.4 22.2 1.1 83.4 4.5 20.7 1.1 -10.3 2.0 -1.5 0.1 7.8 4.4 1.9 1.0 4.1 4.0 1.0 1.0 -47.3 -7.7 -0.8 - 3.9 0.9 3.7 0.9 -3.5 - 3.4 0.8 3.3 0.8 -1.6 - 3.3 3.2 0.8 0.8 3.3 3.1 2.9 0.8 0.8 0.7 -7.0 -10.3 0.8 -0.1 1.3 0.3 2.8 0.7 120.0 0.4 2.8 0.7 2.6 0.6 -7.3 - 58.5 14.0 48.9 12.2 -16.3 -1.8 Total 52.8 12.6 47.5 11.8 -10.0 -0.8 Elizabeth Taylor's White Diamonds Red Door Fantasy Britney Spears White Shoulders Elizabeth Taylor's Passion Other 12.9 3.1 12.7 3.2 -1.3 0.1 6.1 4.4 1.4 1.0 5.6 4.5 1.4 1.1 -7.9 1.8 -0.1 0.1 3.5 3.0 0.8 0.7 3.2 2.6 0.8 0.6 -9.0 -14.4 -0.1 22.9 5.5 18.9 4.7 -17.2 -0.8 Total 25.6 6.1 23.9 5.9 -6.5 -0.2 Body Fantasies Signature Body Fantasies Windsong Sexiest Fantasies Other 4.1 1.0 6.2 1.5 51.6 0.6 4.0 2.4 3.1 12.0 1.0 0.6 0.7 2.9 2.4 2.3 2.3 10.8 0.6 0.6 0.6 2.7 -40.3 -3.5 -26.0 -10.5 -0.4 -0.2 -0.2 © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 58 Brand Share—Women’s Fragrance Fifth & Pacific Companies, Inc. Fragrances US, September 2012 Total 20.4 4.9 20.6 5.1 1.1 0.2 Viva La Juicy Juicy Couture Couture Couture by Juicy Couture Other 7.2 4.0 0.5 1.7 0.9 0.1 7.1 3.1 2.1 1.8 0.8 0.5 -2.1 -21.4 291.8 -0.2 0.4 8.6 2.1 8.3 2.1 -3.9 - Total 16.2 3.9 17.5 4.3 7.9 0.5 Secret Scent Expressions Giorgio Beverly Hills Burberry Brit Olay Luscious Embrace Red By Giorgio Other 2.7 0.7 3.3 0.8 22.1 0.2 7.0 1.7 9.5 2.4 34.8 0.7 2.1 0.0 0.5 0.0 1.7 1.7 0.4 0.4 -17.9 - -0.1 0.4 1.4 2.9 0.3 0.7 1.3 0.1 0.3 0.0 -11.4 -98.0 0.0 -0.7 Chattem Inc. Total Gold Bond Gold Bond Ultimate 15.9 13.8 2.1 3.8 3.3 0.5 16.3 14.3 2.0 4.1 3.6 0.5 3.0 3.7 -1.6 0.3 0.3 - Unilever Total Degree Women Dove Go Fresh Cool Essentials Dove Dove Go Fresh Other 16.7 3.9 2.6 4.0 0.9 0.6 15.9 3.0 2.6 4.0 0.7 0.6 -4.6 -21.7 -2.4 -0.2 - 1.0 2.4 6.8 0.2 0.6 1.6 2.4 2.3 5.7 0.6 0.6 1.4 143.9 -4.1 -17.2 0.4 0.0 -0.2 Revlon Inc. Total Jean Nate Charlie Ciara Other 14.2 5.3 3.0 2.6 3.4 3.4 1.3 0.7 0.6 0.8 12.4 4.8 2.6 2.4 2.7 3.1 1.2 0.6 0.6 0.7 -12.7 -10.0 -14.0 -6.6 -20.3 -0.3 -0.1 -0.1 -0.1 Estée Lauder Inc. Total 12.8 3.1 12.1 3.0 -5.6 -0.1 Tommy Girl Beautiful Clinique Happy Estée Lauder Pleasures Be Delicious Other 3.7 1.9 1.3 1.1 0.9 0.5 0.3 0.3 3.5 1.9 1.5 1.3 0.9 0.5 0.4 0.3 -5.7 1.5 19.4 14.5 0.1 0.1 1.5 3.4 0.4 0.8 1.1 2.8 0.3 0.7 -26.5 -16.1 -0.1 -0.1 Total 11.9 2.8 11.5 2.8 -3.7 - Paris Hilton Ed Hardy Other 3.1 1.8 7.1 0.7 0.4 1.7 2.6 2.3 6.5 0.7 0.6 1.6 -14.5 29.1 -7.2 -0.1 0.1 -0.1 Procter & Gamble Parlux Fragrances © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 59 Brand Share—Women’s Fragrance Fragrances US, September 2012 Other companies 105.7 25.3 109.2 27.1 3.3 1.9 Private label 33.1 7.9 32.0 7.9 -3.4 - Total 418.3 100.0 402.4 100.0 -3.8 - Data may not equal due to rounding SOURCE: MINTEL/SYMPHONYIRI GROUP INFOSCAN REVIEWS © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 60 Brand Share—Men’s Fragrance Fragrances US, September 2012 Brand Share—Men’s Fragrance Key points After modest sales gain in 2010-11, sales took a slight dip in the men’s fragrance segment in FDMx for the period ending June 10, 2012. Mass market mega-brands Axe (Unilever) and Old Spice (P&G) continue to experience sales growth due to the popularity of line extension items like body sprays and shower gels. While lower-priced body care fragrances gain momentum, traditional cologne brands are not faring as well in FDMx. Men’s fragrance growth slows though faring better than women’s Men’s fragrance appeared to be gaining momentum at FDMx after the recession with modest growth in the 52-week period ending June 12, 2011. However, sales showed a slight decline of 1% for the period ending June 10, 2012. Unilever and P&G continue to have success in men’s segment Industry heavyweights, Unilever and P&G, continue to have success with Axe and Old Spice. These brands have created a successful formula of offering body care items like body spray and shower gels with overtly male fragrances combined with clever advertising and strong social media campaigns. While still small compared to Axe and Old Spice, Unilever is seeing success with Dove Men+Care, which is targeting men in a more subtle and benefit-driven manner consistent with the Dove brand, while still being distinctly male. Traditional cologne brands struggle in FDMx While body sprays and other body care fragrances are driving growth, traditional cologne brands continue to struggle at FDMx. L’Oréal is seeing a decline of 16.5% with sales dropping across the board, with the Polo franchise being the hardest hit. Coty Beauty also continues to lose share though not to the degree as seen in the women’s segment or when compared to L’Oréal. Coty is seeing some success with its adidas brand, which offers a line of products including EDT, body sprays, shower gels, and deodorant. In fact, Coty recently announced the launch of a new personal care collection for men, including body wash, deodorant, body spray, and antiperspirant, to be available exclusively at Walmart. This line will retail at $3.47/unit and is poised to offer strong competition to market leaders in the men’s segment while building off the current momentum of the adidas brand (drugstorenews.com, Aug. 14, 2012). © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 61 Brand Share—Men’s Fragrance Fragrances US, September 2012 Manufacturer sales of men’s fragrances FIGURE 30: FDMX SALES OF MEN’S FRAGRANCES BY LEADING COMPANIES, 2011 AND 2012 Company Brand 52 weeks ending June 12, 2011 $million Share of segment Share of segment Change in sales 2011-12 Share change 2011-12 % 52 weeks ending June 10, 2012 $million % % % point Unilever Total Axe Dove Men+Care Other 94.9 92.5 2.3 0.1 23.6 23.0 0.6 - 100.3 97.5 2.8 - 25.2 24.5 0.7 - 5.8 5.4 25.6 -64.2 1.6 1.5 0.2 - Coty Beauty Total Stetson Davidoff Cool Water Calvin Klein Obsession Jovan Musk Calvin Klein Eternity adidas Moves Joop Homme McGraw Nautica Blue McGraw Silver Other 74.0 7.1 6.0 18.4 1.8 1.5 70.8 6.5 5.9 17.8 1.6 1.5 -4.4 -8.1 -0.8 -0.6 -0.1 - 5.9 1.5 5.7 1.4 -3.3 -0.1 4.8 4.7 1.2 1.2 4.6 4.6 1.2 1.1 -4.9 -2.1 -0.1 3.6 2.9 2.3 1.9 2.3 32.6 0.9 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.6 8.1 3.7 2.7 2.2 2.2 1.3 31.5 0.9 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.3 7.9 2.8 -7.2 -5.3 15.1 -42.6 -3.5 0.1 -0.2 -0.2 Total 59.3 14.8 61.1 15.4 3.0 0.6 Old Spice Gillette Fusion ProGilde Old Spice Red Zone Gillette Series Gillette Fusion ProSeries Other 27.6 6.8 6.9 1.7 29.7 6.9 7.5 1.7 7.3 2.0 0.6 0.1 6.3 1.6 5.9 1.5 -6.4 -0.1 6.2 2.4 1.5 0.6 5.8 1.7 1.5 0.4 -6.8 -28.6 -0.1 -0.2 9.9 2.5 11.1 2.8 11.4 0.3 Total Drakkar Noir Acqua Di Gio Polo Armani Black Code Polo Blue Polo Black Other 28.4 6.9 5.3 4.5 3.4 7.1 1.7 1.3 1.1 0.8 23.7 6.5 5.0 3.8 2.5 6.0 1.6 1.3 1.0 0.6 -16.5 -4.7 -6.0 -14.9 -24.8 -1.1 -0.1 -0.1 -0.2 -0.2 2.9 2.3 3.1 0.7 0.6 0.8 2.7 0.9 2.1 0.7 0.2 0.5 -5.2 -59.5 -32.4 -0.3 -0.2 Procter & Gamble L'Oréal © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 62 Brand Share—Men’s Fragrance Fifth & Pacific Companies, Inc. Fragrances US, September 2012 Total 16.2 4.0 15.3 3.8 -6.0 -0.2 Curve Usher Curve Crush Other 7.3 2.5 2.6 3.8 1.8 0.6 0.6 0.9 7.0 2.7 2.4 3.2 1.8 0.7 0.6 0.8 -3.6 5.7 -7.6 -17.0 0.1 -0.2 Beiersdorf Inc. Total Nivea For Men Nivea For Men Extreme Comfort 14.9 14.1 0.8 3.7 3.5 0.2 14.8 14.3 0.5 3.7 3.6 0.1 -0.7 1.8 -42.9 0.1 -0.1 Combe Inc. Total Aqua Velva Classic Ice Blue Williams Lectric Shave Other 12.8 5.2 3.2 1.3 12.3 5.2 3.1 1.3 -3.3 -1.7 -0.1 - 5.2 1.3 5.1 1.3 -1.0 - 2.3 0.6 2.1 0.5 -11.8 -0.1 Total 9.6 2.4 9.5 2.4 -1.5 - Brut 9.6 2.4 9.5 2.4 -1.2 - Other companies 78.2 19.5 76.9 19.3 -1.6 -0.1 Private label 13.4 3.3 12.8 3.2 -4.4 -0.1 Total 401.6 100.0 397.5 100.0 -1.0 - Helen Of Troy Inc. Data may not equal totals due to rounding SOURCE: MINTEL/SYMPHONYIRI GROUP INFOSCAN REVIEWS © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 63 Innovations and Innovators Fragrances US, September 2012 Innovations and Innovators New product launch trends As tracked by Mintel GNPD, a full 1,000 new fragrance products were launched in 2010, which then dropped to 882 new launches in 2011. So far in 2012 (as of July 2012), 619 new products have already been launched showing the category is once again picking up the pace in terms of new product introductions. Celebrity fragrances still hot While celebrity fragrances are not new, they still seem to be dominating new product introductions. Celebrity fragrances have been successful in garnering a spike in sales but maintaining brand loyalty and long term growth has proved to be challenging. However, this doesn’t seem to be stopping fragrance manufacturers from collaborating with the hottest celebrities to launch new fragrances. Actress Halle Berry, singer Beyonce, and reality television star Kim Kardashian are just a few of the latest celebrities to put their name on a fragrance this year. Launches from singers Lady Gaga and Jon Bon Jovi and television personality Nicole Richie are anticipated later in 2012. Kim Kardashian True Reflection Eau de Parfum is described as more intense and elegant fragrance that embodies feminine charms. It is also said to be a representation of Kim Kardashian's present life. The scent notes of an enticing burst of citrusy bergamot and succulent peach, infused with smooth coconut noir, night blooming gardenia, and decadent chocolate orchid entwined with the rich patchouli and warm woods. Beyoncé Pulse Summer Edition Eau de Parfum is said to be the expression of the energy that comes from the light and the empowerment, translating the inexplicable energy felt during summertime. The fragrance is designed for women with a "most tropical mix" to make them look attractive and delicious. The scent includes top notes of pink pepper, icy mandarin and pear; middle notes of ginger orchid, jasmine and Tunisian orange flower; and base notes of sapphire wood, musks, and benzoin. SOURCE: MINTEL GNPD With the success of his Somebody fragrance in 2011, singer Justin Bieber launched his second fragrance, Girlfriend, in 2012. Once again, Justin enlisted his fans and the power of social media to spread the word of his latest creation, no doubt to the delight of his young female fans. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 64 Innovations and Innovators Fragrances US, September 2012 Justin Bieber's Girlfriend Eau de Parfum is described as a flirty, personal and inviting fragrance that envelops the skin, reaching the lips for a "first-kiss feeling with each splash." It features "Chance" (top notes) of sparkling pear, crisp mandarin, rich blackberry and mara strawberry; "Dream" (heart notes) of pink freesia, star jasmine, apricot nectar and orange blossom; and "Kiss" (base notes) of vanilla orchid and luminous musk. It is available in 3.4-fl. oz. ($59) and 1.7-fl. oz. ($49) eye-catching bottles surrounded with gold lacing and adorned with a magnetic cap. SOURCE: MINTEL GNPD Unisex fragrances surge in popularity Overall product introductions may still be down overall for the fragrance category, but the rise in unisex fragrances thus far in 2012 is dramatic. According to Mintel GNPD, unisex fragrances accounted for 19% of new product launches in 2011 and account for 43% of launches so far in 2012. Men’s and women’s fragrance launches seem to be down, although it’s hard to anticipate new product launches for the remainder of the year. FIGURE 31: FRAGRANCE PRODUCT INTRODUCTIONS, BY SUBCATEGORY, 2007-12* Subcategory 2007 # 2008 # 2009 # 2010 # 2011 # 2012* # Share 2007-12* % Women's fragrances Men's fragrances Unisex fragrances 248 58 45 440 90 64 415 94 60 731 136 133 607 105 170 305 48 266 70.6 16.1 13.3 Total sample 351 594 569 1000 882 619 4015 * Jan 1-July 24, 2012 SOURCE: MINTEL GNPD The launch of CK One in 1994 put the unisex fragrance concept on the map. The concept waned in popularity since then but seems to be making a comeback both in prestige and specialty. A fragrance that is not overtly male or female often lines up with fashion trends or broader lifestyle trends. Since fragrance is so influenced by fashion trends, it wouldn’t be surprising to see the pendulum swing the other way in the near future with fragrance manufacturers once again launching more male and female targeted fragrances. However, the unisex fragrance trend is not to be dismissed as indicated by the sheer number of launches in the segment. The Different Company is taking a high end approach to unisex fragrances with a line of products that “features delicate and elegant materials said to last on the skin.” The Different Company L'Esprit Cologne is a collection of fragrances created by perfumer Emilie Coppermann. The perfumes features delicate and elegant materials said to last on the skin. The product comes in a refillable bottle made of reborn glass and solid metal to preserve endlessly. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 65 Innovations and Innovators Fragrances US, September 2012 Sienne d'Orange Tokyo Bloom Midnight Elegant, original, and fruity Sophisticated, ethereal, and pure Combines top notes of Italian orange and green cardamom seeds; heart notes of carrot essence and iris; and base notes of white leather and apricot wood. Combines top notes of basil leaves and blackcurrant buds; heart notes of star jasmine and cyclamen petals; and base notes of gaiac wood, musk, and amber. Sensual, enveloping, and unusual, meant to be worn in the evening to liberate from tensions and seduce Combines top notes of bergamot, angelica root, and neroli; middle notes of iris, mastic, and white jasmine; and base notes of benzoin, labdanum, and ambrette seeds. SOURCE: MINTEL GNPD Body sprays Body sprays continue to grow in popularity with 50% of consumers reporting use (see Fragrance Usage). Brands like Axe spurred growth of these items by offering a low-price fragrance option for young men. However, it seems that premium brands have taken a cue from mass by offering body spray versions of already popular fragrances. Additionally, specialty retailers like Victoria’s Secret and Bath & Body Works also offer a tremendous amount of scent variety with body sprays. Given the popularity of these retailers with young women, in addition to the popularity of this form, it doesn’t appear that body sprays will slow in growth anytime soon, especially given their lower-price, lighter scent, and wide range of fragrance options. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 66 Innovations and Innovators Fragrances US, September 2012 Axe Anarchy for Him Deodorant Bodyspray is said to be a unique all-over deodorant that combines a quality fragrance with effective deodorant protection to keep the user smelling great “all day or all night.” This product retails in a 4-oz. twist top can. Also available is Fresh 24H Deodorant Stick (3 oz.) designed to help reduce underarm odor, as well as Dry 24H Anti-Perspirant & Deodorant Invisible Solid (2.7 oz.). It is available in a 3-oz. pack. Axe Anarchy for Her Body Spray is said to be a unique all over body spray with a quality fragrance to keep the user smelling great all day or all night. This product retails in a 4-oz. twist top bottle. The Ralph Lauren Big Pony Collection is a quartet of fragrances designed for women. The range of perfumes is said to awaken daylight freshness and a positive mood. Available as part of the collection is Blue 1, a sporty fragrance said to be for the courageous and self-confident woman. Its fresh citrus scent includes notes of grapefruit and blue lotus. Available as part of the fragrance range is Refreshing Body Mist, in a 4.2-oz. pack. The limited edition Victoria's Secret Pink Beach collection includes Summer Crush Body Mist, which features a fragrance blending breezy dewberry with island orchid. This product has not been tested on animals, and retails in an 8.4-fl. oz. pack. Bath & Body Works Signature Collection Wild Berry Tulips Fine Fragrance Mist is described as a delicate mist said to lightly scent skin with Wild Berry Tulips, a flirtatious blend of red raspberry, sheer honeysuckle, and pink tulips. This product retails in an 8-fl. oz. pack. Also available is Shimmer Mist. The company does not test on animals. SOURCE: MINTEL GNPD Product innovations Location, location, location Going beyond celebrity and creating fragrances based on a location is an interesting way to capture consumers by either reminding them of their favorite destination or evoking memories of home. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 67 Innovations and Innovators Fragrances US, September 2012 Scents of Departure is a new line of fragrances based on popular cities and identified by their airport city code (i.e., LHR London). The fragrances are advertised as “the essence of a city in a bottle” and are meant to be collectible, portable, and wearable by men and women. The Scent of Departure has been created by perfumer Gérald Ghislain and designer Magali Sénéquier to recall one’s unforgettable trip. The collection of fragrances offers unique and international destinations in a bottle, all carrying their three-letter airport code. The bottles are adorned with a ubiquitous barcode in reference to the sticker attached to the suitcase. LAX Los Angeles, an eau de toilette, is said to transport the user to places such as Hollywood, Rodeo Drive, and the Walk of Fame. The scent combines top notes of grapefruit, plum, and bergamot; heart notes of orange blossom, jasmine, and gardenia; and base notes of sandalwood, amber, and musk. LHR London, an eau de toilette, is said to transport the user to places such as Hyde Park, the Serpentine Lake, and the London Eye. The scent combines top notes of pine, turf, leaves, bergamot, orange, lemon, and tangerine; heart notes of lotus flower, jasmine of water, cyclamen, marine accord, and freesia; and base notes of patchouli, blonde wood, treemoss, gaiac wood, and white musk. SOURCE: MINTEL GNPD United Scents of America created a unisex line of fragrances based on state-based scents that are made in the U.S. to “encourage jobs within the United States of America.” United Scents of America has been created following the desire of Samantha and Sacha to answer more effectively to client needs. The creators decided to develop state-based scents that would translate memorable times through perfume, and all the unisex products are made in New Jersey to encourage jobs within the U.S. The collection includes Florida, a fragrance that combines top notes of fresh ozone, Florida orange and grapefruit, ocean breeze, and key lime; heart notes of jasmine, violet, rose, and melon; and base notes of sandalwood, rosewood, white musk, peaches, and orange flower oil. SOURCE: MINTEL GNPD Take me out to the ballgame The New York Yankees fragrance launch is being backed by a strong ad campaign that is expected to reach 95% of New York City men aged 16-34. The ads will bear classic black-and-white shot-on-film photography and the slogan “Past, Present, Forever” will show up all over New York City, from one entire side of the No. 4 train that goes to Yankee Stadium to a bullpen sign. The team held a “Fragrance Day” event inside the ballpark in June 2012 that gave the first 20,000 fans free samples and fragranced bracelets. The fragrance also has a dedicated Facebook page where fans can request free samples (Ad Age, March 13, 2012). © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 68 Innovations and Innovators Fragrances US, September 2012 The New York Yankees baseball team has launched an eau de toilette said to embody their winning style, and sporty and confident attitude. Woody and fresh, the fragrance includes notes bergamot, coriander, blue sage, crisp ivy leaves, orange flower and geranium, patchouli, smooth sandalwood, and suede. The product is available in 3.4-fl. oz. ($62) and 1.7-fl. oz. ($49) bottles. SOURCE: MINTEL GNPD To the extreme As discussed in Insights and Opportunities, ultra-luxe fragrances that are evocative and unique allow manufacturers to set their products apart and appeal to the consumer looking for a high end experience. Embracing several fragrance trends, Osmos is taking fragrance to the extreme by offering a high-priced, unisex fragrance line based on four different blood types. Blood Concept is a celebration of the vivid and fascinating liquid that flows into the veins. Created by Antonio Zuddas and Giovanni Castelli, the fragrances correspond to the four different blood types, and are claimed to retrace the evolution of manhood. As part of the range, O Perfume features a leather fragrance described as visceral and intense. The scent includes notes of thyme, raspberry, cyperus esculentus, rosehips, leather, birch, cedar, and metal. The product is available in a 60ml ($155) bottle spray as well as in a 40ml ($185) dropper shaped like an antique medicine bottle. SOURCE: MINTEL GNPD Demeter is known for creating unusual, singular scents. Offered in a variety of forms, Demeter offers straight forward, yet unexpected scents, like Gin & Tonic and Clean Skin, which are quite a departure from the “fantasy” concepts usually seen in the fragrance world. The consumer desire for fresh and clean scents is high with 55% of fragrance wearers claiming “fresh” to be their favorite scent (see Scent Preferences). This trend is evident in other categories as well with consumers requesting “soap and water” scents in candles (Village Candle brand analysis; see Mintel’s Candles—U.S., August 2012). Creating scents built around the idea of “fresh” or “clean” could help address some of the consumer concern around fragrances being perceived as too heavy. Light, clean scents may also increase usage frequency if scents are considered easy to wear and more appropriate for daily use. The Demeter Fragrance Library Stable fragrance is said to contain notes of fresh hay, muck, and sweet animal sweat. The Roll On Perfume Oil retails in a .29-fl. oz. rollerball format, and has an alcohol-free formula that is designed to be long-lasting. The fragrance contains safflower oil, jojoba oil, and vitamin E to soften skin. SOURCE: MINTEL GNPD © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 69 Innovations and Innovators Fragrances US, September 2012 Get it while it lasts Limited edition fragrances are not a new concept, but scent expert Chandler Burr is taking this idea to another level by combining the power of social media with the exclusivity of limited availability. Burr partnered with OpenSky (a website offering products and services endorsed by celebrities and experts) by introducing unnamed scents in small-sized, minimalist packaging. According to Happi, Burr describes the fragrance on video—revealing neither its name nor fragrance house where it was created—and then offers 100 bottles for sale to OpenSky members. The social element comes into play because members can chat with each other and interact online with Burr about the fragrance. According to Burr, what makes the OpenSky Untitled project unique is that clients are “actually paying both for the blinded perfume and—and this is the point—for the blindfold itself. Specifically I’m selling the chance to smell a perfume stripped of marketing, signals, brands or cultural cues.” The first scent, known initially as SOE101, debuted on June 1, 2012, and all 100 bottles sold out (Happi, July 2012). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhqYqM8uI_o @katherine_chan: Ordered untld S01E02 to be part of Chandler Burr's brilliant blind perfume project bit. ly/NMh0SJ @ChandlerBurr RT http:// SOURCE: TWITTER/OPENSKY © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 70 Marketing Strategies Fragrances US, September 2012 Marketing Strategies Overview of the brand landscape Analyzing brand positions of leading companies is important to understanding the competitive landscape, creating advertising collateral, and launching successful marketing campaigns. It also allows companies to compare their own brand positions, and see if other, more compelling positions should be adopted. Following is a discussion of several leading companies and the brand positioning/approach taken. Within this section, Mintel includes commentary from Facebook, Twitter, and other social media sites. All quotes are included verbatim, and as such, include typos and other grammatical errors as they originally appeared. Brand analysis: Chanel With the launch of Chanel No. 5 in 1921, a fragrance giant was born. Chanel has a strong fragrance portfolio including category leaders like Coco Mademoiselle, Chance, and Allure, and continues to be one of the strongest and most identifiable fragrance brands in the industry. Chanel blends timeless elegance with a minimalist style that is reflected across all its product categories including fashion, accessories, cosmetics, and fragrance. This consistent brand image reflects its commitment to high quality products and a classic, timeless style. No product reflects this timelessness more than its debut fragrance, Chanel No. 5. The story surrounding this fragrance is as intriguing as the fragrance itself. Legend has it that Mademoiselle Coco Chanel asked Ernest Beaux, a Russian perfumer, to create a fragrance “that smells like a woman.” She was shown several numbered samples and she chose the fifth sample. “Chanel introduced her new collection on the fifth of May, the fifth month of the year, with the fifth sample as selected, and she named it N°5.” (osmoz.com) In a category saturated with so many fragrance choices, Chanel No. 5 remains the top-selling fragrance in the world and is often considered a “signature” fragrance for many women. FIGURE 32: CHANEL LOGO SOURCE: CHANEL.COM FIGURE 33: BRAND ANALYSIS OF CHANEL NO. 5, 2012 Key brand value Brand qualities Tagline Demographic target Timeless Classic, nostalgic, elegant The now and forever fragrance Women, 30+ SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 71 Marketing Strategies Fragrances US, September 2012 Online initiatives The Chanel fragrance website is classic, clean, and minimalistic, which is consistent with the brand imagery. Due to the slightly older demographic of the Chanel No. 5 fragrance, along with its already strong brand imagery and recognition, heavy social media and online presence isn’t part of the core advertising strategy of the brand. However, the Chanel brand does have more than 6.9 million likes on its Facebook page (this is for the entire Chanel portfolio, not just No. 5), and more than 769,000 followers on Twitter. So while Chanel isn’t focused on social media as a way to generate buzz over its brands, it certainly doesn’t lack a presence either. FIGURE 34: CHANEL WEBSITE SOURCE: CHANEL.COM TV presence Chanel No. 5 made big news in the fragrance world earlier this year by announcing actor Brad Pitt as its newest spokesperson. According to Women’s Wear Daily-WWD (May 10, 2012), “ … Chanel has chosen a host of celebrity faces to front the 91-year-old scent—from Ali McGraw, Catherine Deneuve and Candice Bergen to Nicole Kidman, Audrey Tautou and Vanessa Paradis— but Pitt’s signing marks the first time a man has been tapped to represent the brand.” While this certainly marks a break from tradition for the brand, it’s definitely in line with the brand’s emphasis on classic style and beauty, making Brad Pitt a logical choice. Television ads are expected to first air overseas late in 2012. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 72 Marketing Strategies Fragrances US, September 2012 The current ad campaign running in the U.S. does not feature a spokesperson, it simply features the fragrance bottle suggesting that a drop of Chanel No. 5 “is like nothing else.” Once again, simple imagery communicating the timelessness of the brand sends a strong and consistent message. FIGURE 35: CHANEL, TELEVISION AD, 2012 "CHANEL" SOURCE: COMPETITRACK Brand analysis: Selena Gomez Celebrity fragrances continue to be popular with everyone from athletes to reality TV stars launching a signature scent. These fragrances leverage the brand of the celebrity into a strong marketing campaign for the fragrance. Young stars like Justin Bieber, with a very strong and loyal fan base, have experienced tremendous success in the fragrance world. Actress/singer Selena Gomez is hoping to follow in Bieber’s footsteps with the launch of her debut fragrance, Selena Gomez, in 2012. Selena Gomez started off as a young actress on the Disney Channel and has since found fame in feature film roles and the music industry. Selena is beloved by her young fans and is leveraging her fame by launching a clothing line for Kmart as well as her debut fragrance. FIGURE 36: SELENA GOMEZ LOGO SOURCE: SELENAGOMEZPERFUMES.COM FIGURE 37: BRAND ANALYSIS OF SELENA GOMEZ, 2012 Key brand value Brand qualities Tagline Demographic target Celebrity Interactive, young, flirty The debut fragrance Tweens and teens, 12-18 SOURCE: MINTEL Online initiatives In contrast to Chanel, Selena Gomez is utilizing the full power of the internet and social media to promote her brand. Selena enlisted the help of her fans in late 2011 in the creation of her debut fragrance by asking them to vote for their favorite fragrance notes and ingredients on her website www.selenagomezperfumes.com. In addition to getting her fans’ input, the first 50,000 participants received a free sample of the fragrance and an opportunity to win time with Selena herself (WWD, Aug. 23, 2011). Selena Gomez also forged a partnership with Macy’s, launching her fragrance exclusively at Macy’s and macys.com in mid-May 2012 prior to rolling out to wider distribution in August 2012. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 73 Marketing Strategies Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 38: SELENA GOMEZ WEBSITE SOURCE: SELENAGOMEZPERFUMES.COM With more than 12 million followers on Twitter, Selena tweeted the ad for her new fragrance and posted it on her Facebook page, once again embracing her fans and enlisting their feedback. Selena GomezVerified@selenagomez Hey Guys - This is the ad we shot for my new fragrance. Let me know what you think!...http://fb.me/1OjBXxUgR SOURCE: TWITTER/SELENA GOMEZ Selena is using all forms of social media by debuting her fragrance ad on youtube.com and encouraging her fans to “check it out.” The ad was posted on June 26, 2012, and already has 1.5 million visits. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8w7WBxSt-Q8 Brand analysis: Curve Appeal Curve was launched in 1996 under the Liz Claiborne brand and at the time was targeted toward men and women in their 20s. However, realizing that those consumers are no longer in their 20s, Liz Claiborne launched a younger, edgier version of Curve called Curve Appeal in early 2012. Curve Appeal isn’t just a line extension of the original namesake fragrance, it’s a new line aimed at distinguishing itself from its Curve predecessors. Curve Appeal has two fragrances, one for men and one for women, and is using a strong social media campaign and celebrity spokespeople to promote the brand, unlike Curve. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 74 Marketing Strategies Fragrances US, September 2012 “Curve Appeal is ‘our attempt to introduce another arm of the House of Curve,’… . ‘\We’ve done some ‘flankers’ in the past, like Curve Crush and Curve Wave, but never a new master brand.” – Elizabeth Park, executive vice president for North America marketing at Elizabeth Arden in New York (New York Times, Jan. 30, 2012). The article goes on to quote Park on the “edgier, more social media approach” of the brand, to appeal to “the habits of contemporary consumers in their 20s.” While the verdict is still out regarding consumer acceptance, the men’s version of Curve Appeal earned industry praise by winning two Fifi awards (a prestigious award ceremony for fragrances) earlier this year, including best new broad appeal fragrance for men and best new packaging for men. Unlike the original Curve, Curve Appeal will not be sold at mid-tier and high end department stores, but instead will be sold in more mass retailers like drug stores, mass merchandisers, and value department stores. FIGURE 39: CURVE APPEAL LOGO SOURCE: GETCURVEAPPEAL.COM FIGURE 40: BRAND ANALYSIS OF CURVE APPEAL FOR W OMEN AND MEN, 2012 Key brand value Brand qualities Tagline Demographic target Confident Magnetic, sexy, captivating, seductive Do you have curve appeal? Young women and men in their 20s SOURCE: MINTEL Online initiatives Curve Appeal has enlisted celebrity spokespeople as part of its campaign, including reality TV star Audrina Patridge and actor Kevin Zegers. Both celebrities are prominently featured on the brand website, Twitter feed, and Facebook page. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 75 Marketing Strategies Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 41: CURVE WEBSITE SOURCE: GETCURVEAPPEAL.COM Curve Appeal is using Twitter and Facebook to promote discounts, deals, and coupons for the fragrances that are being featured in mass retailers nation-wide. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 76 Marketing Strategies Fragrances US, September 2012 getcurveappealVerified@getcurveappeal Have you hit up Target yet for your curve appeal? Get 10% or more off on a .5 oz bottle of curve appeal women or a 2.5oz curve appeal men... SOURCE: TWITTER/GETCURVEAPPEAL Print and other Curve Appeal also launched a print campaign using imagery consistent with its website, Facebook page, and Twitter feed. This ad features its male spokesperson and displays a QR code encouraging consumers to scan and win a “Curve Appeal model experience.” © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 77 Marketing Strategies Fragrances US, September 2012 SOURCE: INSTYLE MAGAZINE/CURVE APPEAL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 78 Fragrance Usage Overview Fragrances US, September 2012 Fragrance Usage Overview Key points Lower-priced items like scented soap/shower gel, scented lotions, and body spray are the products most likely to be worn and also most likely to be worn daily. In contrast, higher-priced items like perfume and cologne are more likely to be worn only for special occasions. While nearly half of respondents report using perfume, frequency of use is fairly low, with only 13% of respondents using perfume on a daily basis. Highest usage among lower-ticket items Mintel’s custom research finds that 71% of consumers use a scented soap/shower gel and 53% use a scented body lotion from a mass lotion manufacturer. While economic factors may have forced some consumers to trade down to lower-priced items, these products offer a functional benefit beyond scent. However, while these products are the most worn, frequency of usage is still fairly low with growth existing for increasing usage. As discussed in Insights and Opportunities, positioning products with skincare benefits like anti-aging or even health and wellness benefits like relieving headache symptoms could increase product penetration and frequency of usage. Majority of scented products only used occasionally Except for scented soap/shower gel, consumers are most likely to report using scented products only on an occasional basis. According to Mintel’s Fragrances—U.S., September 2011, a variety of reasons exist for only using these products occasionally or not at all, including not being viewed as a necessity, too expensive to wear regularly, or aversion to strong or overpowering scents. While a certain percentage of the population avoids scented products due to allergies or other sensitivities, opportunities may exist to increase usage occasions by introducing functional benefits such as anti-aging or antibacterial properties (Interest in Product Innovations). © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 79 Fragrance Usage Overview Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 42: FRAGRANCE USAGE, MAY 2012 “Which of the following best describe how often you wear each of following fragrance types?” Base: 2,000 internet users aged 18+ Any wear Perfume/parfum Eau de parfum Eau de toilette Eau de cologne Body spray Aftershave Roll on perfume Scented body lotion from a fragrance line such as Chanel or a specialty retailer such as Bath & Body Works or Victoria’s Secret Scented body lotion from a lotion manufacturer, such as Nivea or Vaseline Scented body powder Scented soap/shower gel Every day % % Most, but not all, days of the week % A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions Never % % % % 45 29 32 37 50 30 20 45 13 4 5 6 12 6 4 8 9 7 7 8 11 7 4 10 9 6 8 8 12 9 5 11 14 11 12 14 15 9 8 17 13 8 7 10 7 4 3 6 42 63 61 54 44 66 77 49 53 12 11 12 17 3 44 30 71 5 35 6 15 7 12 12 9 4 3 66 26 SOURCE: MINTEL Fragrance wearers more likely to use all product forms Not surprisingly, consumers that report wearing fragrance are more likely to use all fragrance forms when compared to total respondents. This is particularly true among wearers of EDP, EDT, and cologne. While it stands to reason that consumers who are engaged in the category are more likely to experiment among the various product forms, it also reinforces the idea that increasing usage occasions among current users may be an easier proposition than trying to lure new users. Adding new forms and line extensions to support traditional fragrance products can be a way for manufacturers to continually engage users and potentially garner increased brand loyalty. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 80 Fragrance Usage Overview Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 43: FRAGRANCE USAGE, BY FRAGRANCE USAGE, MAY 2012 “Which of the following best describe how often you wear each of following fragrance types?” All 1,020 Perfume/ parfum 609 Eau de parfum 366 Eau de toilette 372 Eau de cologne 328 Body spray 594 % % % % % % Perfume/parfum Eau de parfum Eau de toilette Eau de cologne Body spray Roll on perfume Scented body lotion from a fragrance line such as Chanel or a specialty retailer such as Bath & Body Works or Victoria’s Secret 60 36 36 32 58 18 62 100 53 48 40 73 24 73 88 100 79 65 75 31 78 79 78 100 69 79 30 78 74 73 78 100 76 29 74 75 46 50 42 100 26 79 Scented body lotion from a lotion manufacturer, such as Nivea or Vaseline 64 74 79 80 78 78 Scented body powder Scented soap/shower gel 30 79 36 86 44 89 43 89 49 88 39 91 Base: 1,020 female internet users aged 18+ SOURCE: MINTEL Brand usage Due to the extremely large number of brands in this category, it is nearly impossible to encompass all key players and product categories. However, Bath & Body Works and Victoria’s Secret are the brands with the highest reported usage. Not surprisingly, this is driven primarily by younger women who are more likely to experiment with fragrance types and forms like body spray, lotion, and scented soap/shower gel. Additionally, these retailers offer lower-price points, frequent promotions like buy two, get one free, and the opportunity to get their favorite scents across a wide variety of products. Among men, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, and adidas are the brands with the highest reported usage. Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren both have a strong heritage in men’s fragrance with product offerings like Obsession, Eternity, and Polo. Men likely get introduced to these brands at a young age and may remain loyal to these brands through adulthood. However, as shown in the Leading Companies section, Ralph Lauren is showing steep declines in FDMx channels, suggesting that men are looking for more contemporary scents and forms or they are simply shopping for these fragrances at retailers outside of FDMx channels. adidas is a lower-priced brand that offers fragrance, aftershave, and even skincare at an affordable price and is showing modest sales growth in FDMx. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 81 Fragrance Usage Overview Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 44: BRANDS OF PERFUME, COLOGNE, AND TOILET WATER USED, BY GENDER, JANUARY 2011-MARCH 2012 “Please indicate the brands of perfume, cologne, or toilet water you use.” Base: adults 18+ who use perfume, cologne, or toilet water Bath & Body Works Victoria’s Secret Avon Calvin Klein Estée Lauder Ralph Lauren Chanel Dolce & Gabanna Giorgio Armani adidas Cool Water by Davidoff Gucci Tommy Hilfiger All 13,371 % Male 3,828 % Female 9,543 % 21 16 11 11 9 8 7 7 6 5 5 5 5 5 3 7 20 1 13 3 8 11 12 10 8 10 29 22 13 6 12 6 9 6 3 2 3 4 3 SOURCE: MINTEL/EXPERIAN SIMMONS NCS/NHCS W INTER 2012 ADULT FULL YEAR—POP © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 82 Fragrance Usage by Type—Traditional Forms Fragrances US, September 2012 Fragrance Usage by Type—Traditional Forms Key points Traditional fragrance forms include perfume, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, and eau de cologne and are often higher-priced items that are usually offered in a decorative spray bottle. Of these products, perfume has the highest usage with 45% of respondents reporting to wear, with the highest participation among women 18-34. Usage drops significantly for all forms with both men and women aged 55+. However, the use of EDT across all female age groups is a bit more consistent, potentially indicating women’s preference for lighter scents, particularly as they get older. More than a quarter of women aged 18-34 report wearing perfume every day; however, this percentage drops to 16% for women in the 35-54 age range. As women in this age group are likely to be married and balancing a career and family, fragrance may be seen as a lower priority. Adding energizing or stress relief benefits could be attractive to this demographic and potentially increase frequency of use. Highest fragrance usage among men and women aged 18-34 Overall, with the exception of cologne and roll-on perfume, women are significantly more likely than men to wear fragrance, and wear it more frequently. Usage is highest among young consumers with 76% of women 18-34 wearing perfume, and 56% of men 18-34 wearing eau de cologne. While not terribly surprising, this does reinforce the necessity of targeting these younger consumers with marketing and advertising. However, even with higher reported usage, frequency of use remains relatively low. Of the traditional forms, perfume has the highest reported daily wear while EDTs are significantly more likely to be worn only occasionally. This is a bit surprising given that EDTs are less expensive than perfume and are less “concentrated,” thus offering a lighter scent and making them more appropriate for daytime use. However, consumers that wear EDTs may not be heavily scent-involved and only feel that scent is needed for special occasions as opposed to perfume wearers who are highly engaged in the category and more likely to feel “complete” when wearing a scent. Interestingly, roll-on perfume is actually used significantly more by men (particularly young men, 18-34) and men are more likely to wear roll-on perfume daily. While there are not many roll-on perfumes targeted specifically for men, there are several unisex fragrances that offer a roll-on variety that could be driving this trend. As mentioned in the Innovations and Innovators section, the number of unisex fragrance launches has surged over the past year. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 83 Fragrance Usage by Type—Traditional Forms Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 45: FRAGRANCE USAGE—TRADITIONAL FORMS, BY GENDER AND AGE, MAY 2012 “Which of the following best describe how often you wear each of following fragrance types?” All 2,000 % Male, 18-34 298 % Male, 35-54 375 % Male, 55+ 307 % Female, 18-34 319 % Female, 35-54 381 % Female, 55+ 320 % Perfume/parfum: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 45 13 9 9 14 13 46 18 9 12 7 5 25 7 4 6 7 6 18 3 3 3 9 7 76 26 16 15 19 13 62 16 12 12 22 20 41 7 10 7 18 26 Eau de parfum: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 29 4 7 6 11 8 36 7 15 9 5 4 20 2 6 5 7 5 11 1 2 2 6 6 39 8 7 9 14 8 39 5 8 8 18 13 29 2 4 6 17 15 Eau de toilette: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 32 5 7 8 12 7 42 9 14 13 6 4 25 4 7 6 8 8 17 1 5 5 7 5 39 7 7 10 14 7 40 7 7 8 19 10 31 3 6 7 15 7 Eau de cologne: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 37 6 8 8 14 10 56 10 19 14 13 12 42 11 8 6 17 12 26 3 6 6 11 9 23 3 5 7 8 5 31 4 5 7 15 9 42 5 8 8 21 8 Roll on perfume: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 20 4 4 5 8 3 36 7 12 10 6 3 19 5 3 6 6 3 13 3 3 4 3 2 25 6 4 4 11 3 17 1 2 3 11 3 12 3 1 1 8 2 Base: internet users aged 18+ SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 84 Fragrance Usage by Type—Line Extensions Fragrances US, September 2012 Fragrance Usage by Type—Line Extensions Key points Line extensions include products that provide scent in alternate forms and frequently offer an added benefit like cleansing or moisturizing. Scented soap/shower gel, scented lotion from a mass retailer, and body spray are the most frequently used line extensions. Except for body powder, product usage is driven by the youngest age segments among both men and women. Use of body powder actually increases with age among women indicating an opportunity to target that segment with additional body powder offerings. Scented soap/shower gel has the highest reported usage with both men and women and also has the highest reported daily use. Due to the strong functional benefits of these products, daily use is not surprising. However, the idea of adding functional benefits is once again reinforced. Lower-priced scented products lead the way Functional products like lotion and scented soap/shower gel are the most used products although body spray also continues to be popular. As seen with traditional fragrance forms, line extension products are used significantly more by women. Body sprays offer a low risk, low cost option to experiment with fragrance. Usage is highest among younger consumers, with 60% of men aged 18-34 and 71% of women aged 18-34 reporting usage. Offerings from popular mass brands like Axe are certainly driving growth in this category, particularly with young men. However, even more prestigious brands like Ralph Lauren are starting to offer a range of lower-priced body sprays to support their fragrance lines and are presumably attempting to target a younger audience (see Innovations and Innovators). Specialty beauty retailers like Bath & Body Works and Victoria’s Secret also offer a wide variety of scented body sprays as well as scented shower gels and lotions, which are particularly popular with young women. These scented body care products offer benefits beyond fragrance such as cleansing and moisturizing and could be seen as competition to the fine fragrance market (see Competitive Context). However, as interest is considerably higher in these line extension items, opportunities exist for fragrance manufacturers to extend their fragrance into other product categories. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 85 Fragrance Usage by Type—Line Extensions Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 46: FRAGRANCE USAGE—LINE EXTENSIONS, BY GENDER AND AGE, MAY 2012 “Which of the following best describe how often you wear each of following fragrance types?” All 2,000 % Male, 18-34 298 % Male, 35-54 375 % Male, 55+ 307 % Female, 18-34 319 % Female, 35-54 381 % Female, 55+ 320 % Body spray: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 50 12 11 12 15 7 60 15 18 16 11 8 37 10 8 8 12 8 26 6 6 7 9 6 71 20 15 16 20 7 64 17 12 14 20 5 38 6 5 9 18 6 Scented body lotion from a high end or specialty retailer: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 45 8 10 11 17 6 44 5 14 14 11 4 26 4 6 6 10 3 16 2 5 3 7 4 73 19 14 16 24 8 65 14 14 15 23 6 45 6 7 8 25 9 Scented body lotion from a mass lotion manufacturer: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 53 12 11 12 17 3 55 12 15 15 12 5 39 7 7 12 13 4 29 4 7 8 10 3 70 22 14 15 18 4 67 16 14 13 24 1 56 13 11 12 21 3 Scented body powder: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 30 5 6 7 12 4 40 6 13 12 9 5 26 4 7 6 9 3 25 5 5 6 9 3 25 8 5 4 8 5 32 5 6 7 14 3 32 5 4 5 18 4 Scented soap/shower gel: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 71 35 15 12 9 3 72 32 15 13 12 5 66 31 15 13 7 3 48 17 11 11 8 3 85 49 20 12 5 2 83 44 17 11 12 1 70 33 15 10 12 2 Base: internet users aged 18+ SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 86 Fragrance Usage by Type—Line Extensions Fragrances US, September 2012 Aftershave more likely to be worn every day by older men Use of all product segments drops significantly among men aged 55+ with the exception of aftershave. Use of aftershave remains pretty consistent with men across all age groups and is actually more likely to be worn every day among the male Baby Boomers. This could be due to a grooming routine that was learned early on, prior to the existence of the expansive range of male grooming products that are available today. However, with the growing popularity of men’s grooming products and higher participation of young men in categories like skincare, the time could be right to “reintroduce” them to the benefits of aftershave. While potentially thought of as a product for older men, promoting the benefits of using aftershave in order to soothe and protect skin could be a way to engage the younger consumer. The idea of highlighting skin benefits into a category that may be perceived as lacking innovation could be what the category needs in order to engage men of all ages. FIGURE 47: AFTERSHAVE USAGE, BY MALE AND AGE, MAY 2012 “Which of the following best describe how often you wear each of following fragrance types?” Base: male internet users aged 18+ Aftershave: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions All 980 % Male, 18-34 298 % Male, 35-54 375 % Male, 55+ 307 % 56 11 13 17 16 7 59 7 16 20 16 7 54 9 11 17 17 6 55 15 13 13 14 7 SOURCE: MINTEL Old Spice most popular aftershave or cologne brand with men Old Spice leads the way with 20% of men claiming to use the brand with Axe close behind at 17%. Given the explosive growth of both of these brands in mass retail, driven by successful advertising and social media campaigns and a wide range of scent offerings across a variety of products, high usage is not surprising. However, keeping men engaged as they age could pose a challenge to some of these brands, particularly those that skew young. Also, while an aftershave isn’t necessarily right for every brand, the idea of promoting skincare benefits in products beyond just fragrance could be interesting. Although a relatively new player in the men’s segment, Dove Men+Care is a line of cleansing products and deodorant promoting “skin care built in” and is seeing some success in the category. As male specific products continue to proliferate in both the mass and prestige markets, product innovation appears to be a big opportunity. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 87 Fragrance Usage by Type—Line Extensions Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 48: BRANDS OF AFTERSHAVE LOTION OR COLOGNE USED, AMONG MEN, JANUARY 2011-MARCH 2012 “Please indicate the brands of aftershave lotion or cologne you use.” Base: 5,566 male aged 18+ who use aftershave lotion or cologne Male % Old Spice Axe Calvin Klein Gillette Ralph Lauren Brut adidas Aqua Velva Cool Water Giorgio Armani Nautica Drakkar Noir 20 17 10 10 9 8 7 7 7 6 6 5 SOURCE: MINTEL/EXPERIAN SIMMONS NCS/NHCS W INTER 2012 ADULT FULL YEAR—POP © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 88 Trying a New Fragrance Fragrances US, September 2012 Trying a New Fragrance Key points Smelling on another person is the most common way consumers are learning about fragrance. This is partially driven by the fact that consumers are passively receiving fragrances since they are exposed to a variety of scents worn on other people. However, some consumers may think that smelling on a person provides a truer perception of the fragrance than smelling on a paper sample. Both men and women aged 55+ are more likely to purchase a scent they are already familiar with. Visiting a retailer is the most popular way respondents are trying fragrances—whether it’s on a paper sample or on them. Smelling is the most frequent method for learning about fragrance Experiencing a scent is the best way for consumers to learn about a new fragrance and gauge their potential interest in trying and ultimately making a purchase. Interestingly, consumers are more likely to learn about a fragrance by smelling it on another person compared to smelling it in a magazine sample. While sampling is a heavy influencer in other categories such as color cosmetics with 81% of women reporting to be influenced by a free sample (see Mintel’s Color Cosmetics—U.S., July 2012), only 28% of women report learning about a fragrance by smelling it in a magazine (see Appendix).This suggests that consumers think that smelling on a person provides a better perception of how the fragrance actually smells as compared to a paper or magazine sample. Strategically placed “scent wearers” could spread the word (or smell) in popular venues or events in order to create buzz around a new fragrance launch. As product sampling campaigns are getting more creative and more targeted (like beauty subscription boxes), exposing consumers to fragrances in creative ways allows them to experience the fragrance and create a positive association between the fragrance and the event or venue where they first smelled the fragrance. Word of mouth popular with young men Hearing about a fragrance/word of mouth is also an effective way to reach consumers, particularly with young men aged 18-34. This age group likes to feel “in the know” without feeling overtly advertised to. The opportunity to use social media to create “buzz” and a successful word of mouth campaign is likely to be particularly effective with this demographic. The success of Axe and Old Spice illustrates this point – showing that even large brands with big budgets can create “buzz.” © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 89 Trying a New Fragrance Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 49: STEPS TAKEN BEFORE TRYING A NEW FRAGRANCE—LEARNING ABOUT A SCENT, BY GENDER AND AGE, MAY 2012 “Thinking about the last fragrance you bought, which of the following steps did you take before purchasing?” All 1,529 Male, 18-34 243 Male, 35-54 265 Male, 55+ 202 Female, 18-34 278 Female, 35-54 311 Female, 55+ 230 % % % % % % % Learning about the scent: Smelled it (net) Smelled it on a person Smelled it in a magazine sample 51 35 27 57 44 32 51 35 26 36 25 17 65 47 33 52 32 27 39 24 21 Heard about it (net) Heard about it from a friend Read about it in a magazine 25 18 10 45 34 18 25 19 10 19 11 8 27 20 11 18 13 8 13 10 3 Company promotions (net) Received a sample from a sampling box company Approached by a salesperson in a store 27 17 35 23 28 17 20 12 29 19 27 18 23 11 14 19 14 11 16 13 13 Was purchasing a scent I was already familiar with 39 24 35 49 35 43 51 Other 6 5 6 8 5 6 8 Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances SOURCE: MINTEL Visiting retailers is the most popular way to try fragrances Fragrance wearers are most likely to visit retailers when they want to try a fragrance with sampling on themselves edging out trying on paper. This is consistent with findings regarding how they learn about fragrance, with respondents preferring to smell on a person when compared to smelling in a magazine. Men and women are nearly equally as likely to visit retailers, with the youngest groups being the most engaged in trying and participating in the category. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 90 Trying a New Fragrance Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 50: STEPS TAKEN BEFORE TRYING A NEW FRAGRANCE—TRYING A SCENT, BY GENDER AND AGE, MAY 2012 “Thinking about the last fragrance you bought, which of the following steps did you take before purchasing?” All 1,529 Male, 18-34 243 Male, 35-54 265 Male, 55+ 202 Female, 18-34 278 Female, 35-54 311 Female, 55+ 230 % % % % % % % 48 26 58 34 47 22 37 19 56 34 47 26 41 18 34 36 35 26 41 33 32 Used a magazine sample to try out the scent on me Purchased a small sample size/trial size Other 27 28 23 18 32 30 24 16 17 15 14 17 17 13 3 - 3 3 1 3 5 None 27 23 33 40 17 24 32 Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances Trial : Visited a retailer (net) Visited a retailer to get a live trial of the scent—on a paper/sample stick Visited a retailer to get a live trial of the scent—on me SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 91 Purchase Locations Fragrances US, September 2012 Purchase Locations Key points Drug stores are the most popular location to buy fragrances, closely followed by specialty retailers. Specialty retailers also have a strong online presence with 12% of respondents reporting making fragrance purchases through this outlet. Men are making the majority of fragrance purchases at FDMx channels compared to women who are purchasing at more specialty and premium retailers. Drug stores most popular purchase location, but losing ground to other channels Drug stores and specialty retailers are the top two destinations for purchasing fragrances. While drug stores continue to expand beauty offerings as well as create a more inviting shopping experience that has not translated into sales gains as a fragrance retailer (see Retail Channels). However, as drug stores are more popular with men, the idea of catering to them by focusing more on men’s fragrances through increased displays and product selection will ultimately create a more “male destination” shopping experience. Additionally, mass merchandisers are another outlet to keep an eye on. With the expansion of beauty offerings and the introduction of a “beauty concierge” service at Target, these retailers are clearly pushing to make themselves a leader in the beauty category. After online-only retailers, specialty retailers have the strongest online presence. Since these retailers are considered beauty destinations and often offer a larger product selection than other retailers, it would make sense that they would be a “go to” destination online. As drug stores and mass merchandisers look to build their in-store beauty presence, creating a virtual beauty department online could be beneficial. While these retailers generally don’t offer the large selection of “hard to find” products that are found at specialty retailers, perhaps creating collaborative beauty lines exclusive to the retailer could create that “exclusivity” buzz. Target has had much success with this collaboration concept in apparel, illustrated by its partnership with fashion house Missoni that created a frenzy that led to the crashing of the Target website and made national news. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 92 Purchase Locations Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 51: FRAGRANCE PURCHASE LOCATIONS, MAY 2012 “Where do you buy fragrances?” Base: 1,529 internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances Drug store Specialty retailer like Victoria’s Secret or Bath & Body Works Macy’s or other mid-range department store Mass merchandiser JCPenney, Sears, or other value-priced department store Supermarket TJMaxx, Marshalls, or other discount retailer Online retailer, like Amazon.com Bloomingdale’s or other high end department store Sephora Clothing store, such as Gap Fragrance-only retailer, such as Perfumania Ulta Duty-free shop TV retailer, like QCV or HSN (please select “in a store” option for this if purchased via telephone) Any purchase % In a store % Online % I don't purchase from here % 60 59 57 54 5 12 40 41 56 55 44 43 40 27 26 26 25 21 19 16 52 52 41 40 37 23 20 23 18 17 15 9 8 8 9 5 5 32 7 9 7 9 5 5 9 44 45 56 57 60 62 73 74 74 75 79 81 84 SOURCE: MINTEL Specialty retailers most popular with young women; men more likely to shop at department stores Drug stores may be the retailer of choice for most, but 86% of women aged 18-34 have purchased a fragrance at a specialty retailer. Considering the popularity of Bath & Body Works and Victoria’s Secret with this demographic, this purchase behavior is not that surprising. However, older women are less likely to purchase at these retailers, with only 48% of women aged 55+ making fragrance purchases at specialty retailers. We could begin to see a shift in purchasing behavior since specialty retailers are a relative newcomer to retail so while older women may not be as familiar with these stores, as younger women age, these types of retailers will more likely be in their consideration set. These declines in purchase behavior are also due to older women being less engaged in the category overall. However, there may be an opportunity to offer scented products that are more appealing to women as they move through various life stages, with offerings like fragrances with stress relief benefits for busy moms or anti-aging benefits for women in the 55+ age group. Additionally, specialty retailers could create dedicated zones in store to appeal to women of different ages that are looking for a slightly different shopping experience, helping to guide women to the area of the store right for their current life stage need. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 93 Purchase Locations Fragrances US, September 2012 While drug stores and mass merchandisers are popular with young men, department stores are actually more popular with men than women. Department stores are a traditional retailer for higher end brands like Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein, and men may be more comfortable shopping in this retail environment compared to specialty retailers like Bath & Body Works, which clearly cater to women. As department stores continue to face increased competition from specialty retailers and beauty retailers like Sephora they may have an opportunity to make themselves a destination for men seeking products “for them” in an environment that is more “man cave” and less girly. Nordstrom has adopted this approach to some degree by offering comfortable couches and TVs playing sports in its male targeted departments. FIGURE 52: FRAGRANCE PURCHASE LOCATIONS, BY GENDER AND AGE, MAY 2012 “Where do you buy fragrances?” All 1,529 Male, 18-34 243 Male, 35-54 265 Male, 55+ 202 Female, 18-34 278 Female, 35-54 311 Female, 55+ 230 % % % % % % % Drug store: Any purchase In a store Online 60 57 5 68 58 13 66 64 5 65 64 3 60 59 4 51 50 3 50 49 2 Specialty retailer like Victoria’s Secret or Bath & Body Works: Any purchase In a store Online 59 54 12 56 45 18 49 45 10 31 30 1 86 82 20 71 67 12 48 45 6 Macy’s or other mid-range department store: Any purchase In a store Online 56 52 8 68 53 24 56 52 8 48 47 1 59 56 8 53 50 6 53 51 2 Mass merchandiser: Any purchase In a store Online 55 52 8 65 56 18 62 57 8 54 52 2 57 54 9 47 46 5 49 47 3 JCPenney, Sears, or other valuepriced department store: Any purchase In a store Online 44 41 9 64 53 19 50 46 10 44 43 1 46 43 10 33 31 6 31 30 2 Supermarket: Any purchase In a store Online 43 40 5 69 59 15 49 46 5 50 50 0 50 47 5 25 23 2 20 20 1 Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 94 Purchase Locations Fragrances US, September 2012 TJMaxx, Marshalls, or other discount retailer: Any purchase In a store Online 40 37 5 50 38 14 43 40 5 32 32 1 48 45 5 36 33 3 32 31 1 Online retailer, like Amazon.com: Online 32 50 37 21 35 29 19 Bloomingdale’s or other high end department store: Any purchase In a store Online 27 23 7 42 31 17 31 25 8 20 19 1 23 19 6 27 24 6 19 18 1 Sephora: Any purchase In a store Online 26 20 9 32 20 15 20 14 8 10 9 1 40 32 15 32 27 10 15 13 3 Clothing store, such as Gap: Any purchase In a store Online 26 23 7 51 40 20 31 28 9 17 16 0 29 28 7 19 17 4 10 9 1 Fragrance-only retailer, such as Perfumania: Any purchase In a store Online 25 18 9 40 27 18 26 18 10 13 9 5 27 19 9 24 17 8 17 12 7 Ulta: Any purchase In a store Online 21 17 5 31 19 14 15 11 5 8 8 0 27 22 8 23 22 3 14 14 1 Duty-free shop: Any purchase In a store Online 19 15 5 35 23 14 22 20 6 14 13 2 15 10 6 14 14 1 13 13 0 TV retailer, like QCV or HSN (please select “in a store” option for this if purchased via telephone): Any purchase In a store Online 16 9 9 34 18 18 15 11 8 13 7 7 14 8 8 14 6 10 9 4 5 SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 95 Attitudes toward Wearing Fragrance Fragrances US, September 2012 Attitudes toward Wearing Fragrance Key points Women are more likely to alternate between a few scents when compared to men, with 61% of women aged 35-54 agreeing to this behavior. Knowing that consumers alternate scents, providing trial sizes or sample packs that target different usage occasions (day, evening, special) could keep consumers engaged and help them create a “suite” of fragrances that meet their needs. Younger respondents are more likely to feel confident and express themselves when wearing fragrance, but are also more likely to express difficulty in knowing which fragrance suits them. Creative sampling, both in store and virtually, could help guide these consumers through the fragrance research and purchasing processes, resulting in a less confused and hopefully more loyal user. Older women are the most likely to save expensive fragrances for special occasions and also the most likely to always wear their signature fragrance. Adding benefits to fragrances like mood boosting or stress relief could encourage more frequent usage with these consumers. Nearly half of fragrance wearers like to alternate between scents Alternating between favorite scents is more popular with women, although it remains fairly consistent across age groups. However, among men, the two older male groups are actually more likely than their younger male counterparts to exhibit this behavior. Older respondents are less likely to experiment with different scents when compared to the younger age group suggesting that while consumers have a set of favorite fragrances they alternate between, experimenting with completely new scents becomes less popular with age. More than a third of men aged 18-34 and more than half of women aged 18-34 report feeling more confident when wearing fragrance and are also more likely to use fragrance as a way to express their personality. However, these respondents are also the most likely to express difficulty in finding a fragrance that suits them. Having a signature fragrance becomes more popular with age, indicating an increased confidence in identifying scents that suit you as get older. Helping these younger consumers find a fragrance or suite of fragrances that suits them could be the key in engaging and ultimately maintaining a loyal brand user. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 96 Attitudes toward Wearing Fragrance Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 53: ATTITUDES TOWARD WEARING FRAGRANCES, BY GENDER AND AGE, MAY 2012 “Thinking now about your attitudes toward wearing fragrance, which, if any, of the following statements do you agree with?” All Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances I alternate between a few favorite scents I feel more confident when I wear fragrance I wear different fragrance scents for different occasions I save my more expensive fragrance products for special occasions only I use fragrance to express my personality I like to experiment with different scents I never leave the house without wearing fragrance I always wear my signature fragrance I change my fragrance based on the season I find it difficult to know which fragrance suits me I like to buy the latest fragrance launches I’ve yet to find a scent I really like None of the above 1,529 Male, 18-34 243 Male, 35-54 265 Male, 55+ 202 Female, 18-34 278 Female, 35-54 311 Female, 55+ 230 % % % % % % % 48 40 33 38 39 34 39 25 59 51 61 45 52 39 34 29 30 20 42 42 32 31 26 26 28 35 32 40 28 28 26 30 29 21 21 29 17 15 16 19 36 42 28 33 29 31 29 21 35 22 16 21 19 20 9 20 7 21 20 21 19 30 20 12 17 15 7 14 11 6 9 8 9 16 12 9 10 11 13 5 3 29 10 12 2 8 6 3 3 4 6 SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 97 Fragrance Preferences Fragrances US, September 2012 Fragrance Preferences Key points Celebrity and fashion designer fragrances are the most popular with young women, while classic scents are preferred by women aged 55+. This is consistent with previous findings suggesting that younger women are more likely to experiment with different scents while older women are more likely to wear a signature fragrance. Expanding classic scents into product forms preferred by older women, like scented body powder, could be a way to successfully extend scent across a line. On the contrary, expanding celebrity and fashion designer scents into forms preferred by younger women, like scented shower gels and body sprays, strategically targets the brand’s key consumer. Young women most overwhelmed by fragrance choices Some 34% of female fragrance wearers aged 18-34 compared to 28% of total fragrance wearers think the choice of fragrances in stores is overwhelming. Younger female fragrance wearers are also more likely to be intimidated by fragrance counters/consultants. So while these young women are more likely to experiment with scent, they are also looking for sources of information that are relatable when shopping for a new scent. Since the “behind the counter” expert typically seen at department stores can be perceived as intimidating, retailers may want to try creating “virtual” fragrance counters with tablet computers to help guide these young women through the fragrance selection process in a high-tech way. The tablet could have a “quiz” or survey that helps pinpoint the consumer’s likes and dislikes along with some general lifestyle attitudes in order to create a personalized fragrance recommendation. This could also be a useful online tool for guiding consumers through the fragrance buying process. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 98 Fragrance Preferences Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 54: FRAGRANCE PREFERENCES, BY GENDER AND AGE, MAY 2012 “Still thinking about your attitudes toward fragrances, which, if any, of the following statements do you agree with?” All Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances The choice of fragrance in stores can be overwhelming Fine fragrances are a luxury that I buy only occasionally I buy new fragrances on impulse, when I smell something I like I wear classic scents, such as Chanel No. 5, Obsession, etc. I wear fashion designer fragrances, such as Dior, Jimmy Choo, Armani, Chloé, etc. I prefer to wear scents with matching body lotions I only buy online if I’m replacing a product I already know I like I am willing to spend more money on a fragrance if it comes with an accompanying lotion I am willing to spend more money on a fragrance if it comes with an accompanying travel size sample I find fragrance counters/consultants intimidating I wear celebrity fragrances, such as Justin Bieber Someday, Curious (Britney Spears), etc. None of the above 1,529 Male, 18-34 243 Male, 35-54 265 Male, 55+ 202 Female , 18-34 278 Female , 35-54 311 Female , 55+ 230 % % % % % % % 28 26 24 17 34 31 30 27 20 20 23 31 31 35 27 30 25 20 32 32 20 24 19 19 16 22 25 41 20 21 23 11 28 19 14 20 16 15 8 32 24 21 19 18 12 10 27 24 17 17 17 16 7 26 18 16 14 14 12 12 19 14 11 12 14 14 7 18 9 9 8 12 5 1 18 8 3 17 15 23 40 6 9 14 SOURCE: MINTEL Income impacts fragrance preferences Higher income groups prefer classic scent and fashion designer scents while lower income groups prefer celebrity scents and scents with a matching lotion. This isn’t terribly surprising since classic scents and fashion designer scents tend to be higher-priced when compared to celebrity scents. Additionally, signature scents are preferred by older consumers, who tend to be in higher income brackets as compared to younger consumers, who tend to be in lower income brackets and prefer celebrity scents. It is interesting to see that lower income groups prefer scents with a matching body lotion. Scented lotions provide scent and moisture at a lower-price that offers value. Additionally, since lotion provides scent, consumers may not feel like they need to wear as much perfume (or wear it as frequently), essentially extending the life of their perfume. This again reinforces the idea that line extensions like scented body lotions offer consumers a lower-priced option to wear their favorite scent and are particularly appealing to consumers who are on a tighter budget. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 99 Fragrance Preferences Fragrances US, September 2012 However, while income may impact the types of fragrances consumers purchase, consumers across all income brackets express fairly equal levels of feeling overwhelmed by the choice of fragrances. As mentioned previously in this section, opportunities to guide consumers through the fragrance selection process exist. In FDMx channels, there is often little to no guidance to help consumers, which is why Target is testing a beauty concierge service in Chicago in an effort to help consumers through the beauty product selection process. While specialty beauty stores usually have “beauty consultants,” creating a less intimidating, yet still interactive, service to guide consumers could be beneficial. FIGURE 55: FRAGRANCE PREFERENCES, BY HOUSEHOLD INCOME, MAY 2012 “Still thinking about your attitudes toward fragrances, which, if any, of the following statements do you agree with?” Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances The choice of fragrance in stores can be overwhelming Fine fragrances are a luxury that I buy only occasionally I buy new fragrances on impulse, when I smell something I like I wear classic scents, such as Chanel No. 5, Obsession, etc. I wear fashion designer fragrances, such as Dior, Jimmy Choo, Armani, Chloé, etc. I prefer to wear scents with matching body lotions I only buy online if I’m replacing a product I already know I like I am willing to spend more money on a fragrance if it comes with an accompanying lotion I am willing to spend more money on a fragrance if it comes with an accompanying travel size sample I find fragrance counters/consultants intimidating I wear celebrity fragrances, such as Justin Bieber Someday, Curious (Britney Spears), etc. None of the above All <$25K $50K74.9K 286 $75K99.9K 243 $100K149.9K 295 $150K+ 271 $25K49.9K 317 1,529 % % % % % % % 28 29 25 25 33 26 31 27 33 27 24 29 23 25 27 30 28 26 31 21 27 24 21 24 19 23 27 33 20 19 20 18 21 19 25 20 25 23 18 19 15 19 19 13 17 17 22 23 22 17 20 19 16 20 10 22 14 14 13 14 13 14 17 12 7 8 14 19 12 15 8 10 8 9 9 6 8 17 21 18 18 12 17 15 117 SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 100 Interest in Product Innovations—Properties Fragrances US, September 2012 Interest in Product Innovations—Properties Key points The majority of fragrance wearers express interest in fragrances that offer added benefit properties, with three quarters of respondents reporting some interest in fragrances that are mood boosting or stress relieving. Young men express the greatest likelihood of interest in fragrances that are antibacterial. Women aged 35-54 are more likely to be interested in fragrances with anti-aging properties. Added benefit fragrances could generate increased usage occasions While many consumers report wearing fine fragrance, frequency of use is primarily “only occasionally” or “only on special occasions.” The usage frequency of scented body care products is much higher since these products are lower-priced as well as offering added skincare benefits. High consumer interest reported for a variety of different properties points to the opportunity to add benefits to fine fragrance. Adding benefits not only improve the perceived value of the product to the consumer, it likely increases usage frequency, making this proposition a win-win for both consumers and manufacturers. As mentioned throughout this report, particularly in Trend Applications, consumers are looking to get more value and more benefits from a wide range of products. Multifunctionality is almost becoming a “must have” in the beauty industry, and the fragrance category is no exception. According to Mintel’s exclusive consumer survey, the highest consumer interest is expressed in fragrances that are mood boosting or stress relieving. The concept of aromatherapy is not new (particularly in scented body care products), but offering fine fragrances with ingredients “proven” to affect mood or overall emotional wellbeing could take these products to the next level. This concept is best illustrated by the growing popularity of “energy shots” or “mood boosters” in the beverage and supplement industries and the opportunity to expand this idea to the fragrance industry is certainly compelling. Nature's Answer Natural Green Tea Energy Shot with yerba mate has been repackaged. The product contains organic green tea with no artificial sweeteners, colors, or flavors. It is said to energize in minutes, is mixed berry flavored, and retails in a 2-fl. oz. pack. SOURCE: MINTEL GNPD © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 101 Interest in Product Innovations—Properties Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 56: INTEREST IN PRODUCT INNOVATIONS—PROPERTIES—ANY INTERESTED, BY GENDER AND AGE, MAY 2012 “How interested would you be in the following?” All Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances Properties: Fragrances that are mood enhancing/mood boosting Fragrances with stress relieving properties Fragrances that provide an energy boost/pick me up Fragrances that have anti-aging properties Fragrances that are antibacterial Fragrances that have appetitesuppressing properties 1,529 Male, 18-34 243 Male, 35-54 265 Male, 55+ 202 Female , 18-34 278 Female , 35-54 311 Female , 55+ 230 % % % % % % % 76 81 77 52 87 86 66 74 79 71 49 88 82 63 69 79 68 45 80 77 60 63 64 63 54 63 69 60 60 50 74 58 66 50 58 28 65 60 55 55 43 39 SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 102 Interest in Product Innovations—Forms Fragrances US, September 2012 Interest in Product Innovations—Forms Key points Interest in innovative product forms is highest among young men, with half of male fragrance wearers aged 18-34 expressing interest in a fragrance pill or fragranced chewing gum. While not for everybody, engaging the younger consumer with these innovative forms could be instrumental in capturing the attention of this highly engaged, albeit less loyal consumer. Consumers are most likely to learn about fragrance by smelling them on other people (see Trying a New Fragrance), so fragrance forms that emit fragrance could be an interesting way to create interest, particularly among men. Innovative product forms provide creative sampling opportunities Consumers are most likely to learn about a fragrance by smelling it on other people, so creative ways to “sample” fragrance could be a great way to spread the word about new product launches. This idea could be particularly appealing to younger consumers who are more likely to experiment with scent and want to be engaged without necessarily feeling “advertised” to. Using temporary tattoos as giveaways at concerts, outdoor events, and even popular urban areas, provides fragrance manufacturers with an innovative way to sample fragrance while creating buzz. Additionally, temporary tattoos provide a co-branding opportunity for cross category promotions. For example, a retailer that sells multiple product categories could advertise a product on its tattoo while infusing the tattoo with one of its top-selling (or new) fragrances. FIGURE 57: INTEREST IN PRODUCT INNOVATIONS—FORMS—ANY INTERESTED, BY GENDER AND AGE, MAY 2012 “How interested would you be in the following?” All Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances Forms: A pill you could swallow that emitted fragrance through your pores A chewing gum that emitted fragrance A temporary tattoo/body art that included fragrance Male, 18-34 243 Male, 35-54 265 Male, 55+ 202 Female , 18-34 278 Female , 35-54 311 Female , 55+ 230 % % % % % % 29 50 37 22 32 24 7 26 21 51 44 32 23 18 6 28 26 18 19 9 4 1,52 9 % SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 103 Interest in Product Innovations—Forms Fragrances US, September 2012 Young men express the highest interest in innovative product forms Young men express a higher than average interest in innovative product forms, with 19% of men aged 1834 responding “very interested” to the idea of a fragrance pill, 18% to a chewing gum, and 14% to a temporary tattoo. As previously mentioned, these product forms provide innovative sampling opportunities as well as opportunities to leverage popular young men’s fragrances into line extension products. Brands like Axe, which have high participation among young men, could extend fragrances into creative line extensions to help keep this young and less loyal consumer engaged in the category. Additionally, these brands could offer a fragrance gum or temporary tattoo on-pack as a way to promote a new fragrance launch. FIGURE 58: INTEREST IN PRODUCT INNOVATIONS—FORMS—VERY INTERESTED, BY MALE AND AGE, MAY 2012 “How interested would you be in the following?” Male Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances Forms: A pill you could swallow that emitted fragrance through your pores A chewing gum that emitted fragrance A temporary tattoo/body art that included fragrance 710 % Male, 18-34 243 % Male, 35-54 265 % Male, 55+ 202 % 12 11 8 19 18 14 11 10 8 6 3 1 SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 104 Interest in Product Innovations—Scent Extensions Fragrances US, September 2012 Interest in Product Innovations—Scent Extensions Key points Scent extensions generate high interest with young consumers, which is consistent with previous findings (see Fragrance Usage) suggesting higher usage of line extension products like scented soap/shower gel and scented lotion. Extending scent into other product categories can further engage these young consumers with lower-priced items and the opportunity to experience their favorite scents in a variety of ways. The majority of fragrance wearers express interest in scented candles, though air fresheners and laundry products also show considerable opportunity among both men and women. Scent extensions create opportunity for lower-priced, value added items Scented household and laundry products are not a new concept, with both mass and prestige brands offering a range of scents available in a variety of products including candles, detergents, and laundry products. However, as mentioned in both Trend Applications and Competitive Context, extending popular fine fragrances into household products as well as co-branding could create opportunities in categories typically seen as competition for fine fragrance. Mass brands like Tide and Old Spice (both P&G) could easily partner by creating Old Spice fragrance pods that could be added to Tide detergent for a burst of fragrance when the consumer wanted it. Premium fragrance brands also have the opportunity to co-brand with higher end household products like Caldrea, which offers high quality products available in a variety of unique scents like Ginger Pomelo and Basil Blue Sage. Since Caldrea is not afraid to push the envelope with creative scents by offering variants typically not seen in mass, partnering with premium fragrance brands could be a good fit for consumers looking for unique and high quality products. FIGURE 59: INTEREST IN PRODUCT INNOVATIONS—SCENT EXTENSIONS—ANY INTERESTED, BY GENDER AND AGE, MAY 2012 “How interested would you be in the following?” All Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances Scent extensions: Scented candles that smell the same as my favorite fragrance Air fresheners that smell the same as my favorite fragrance Dryer sheets that smell the same as my favorite fragrance Laundry detergents that smell the same as my favorite fragrance 1,529 Male, 18-34 243 Male, 35-54 265 Male, 55+ 202 Female, 18-34 278 Female, 35-54 311 Female, 55+ 230 % % % % % % % 65 74 65 39 77 72 52 62 74 63 41 73 67 43 60 72 64 44 74 59 42 58 73 65 41 75 57 32 SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 105 Attitudes toward Fragrance Packaging Fragrances US, September 2012 Attitudes toward Fragrance Packaging Key points Among those who wear fragrances, half of young women agree that they would be interested in purchasing product refills in order to save money, and nearly half would be interested in product refills in order to cut down on waste. Women aged 55+ are the most likely to keep perfume bottles on display indicating an opportunity to create special editions of classic scents like Chanel No. 5 in high quality bottles that are worthy of display. Color of packaging or product is of relatively low importance though young men do express a higher than average interest in these attributes. Product refills improve value perception and support conservation Among those who wear fragrances, young women aged 18-34 express the highest interest in product refills with 50% showing interest in order to save money, and 45% in order to cut down on waste. Since this younger consumer is also most likely to be interested in celebrity scents and the most interested in experimenting with scent, this could be an opportunity to create a refill “pack” offering three of the topselling celebrity scents with one reusable bottle. Providing value while still letting consumers experiment could keep them engaged while helping them save money and feel like they are making a positive impact on the environment. Packaging and product color can help support benefits While product and package color don’t garner a high level of importance among consumers, consumers may be impacted by packaging more than they think. Tying packaging and product color to a specific benefit or trend could be a subtle way to communicate the scent and even product efficacy before the consumer smells the product. According to osmoz.com, “nude” or “skin tone” bottles are the latest trend in fragrance packaging this season, which aligns with trends in fashion and makeup. Not only do nude and blush colors follow larger trends, they also communicate the type of scent in the bottle. Fragrances with added benefits (like anti-aging) have strong consumer interest and using nude tones on the package can help reinforce the idea that a fragrance is good for your skin. Using color as a way to communicate the “story” of a fragrance helps to engage all of the consumer’s senses (see Insights and Opportunities), offering a complete experience beyond just smelling good. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 106 Attitudes toward Fragrance Packaging Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 60: ATTITUDES TOWARD FRAGRANCE PACKAGING, BY GENDER AND AGE, MAY 2012 “Please indicate which of the following statements about fragrance packaging you agree with.” All Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances I would be interested in purchasing product refills for my perfume/cologne bottles to save money I keep my perfume/cologne bottles on display I would be interested in purchasing product refills for my perfume/cologne bottles to cut down on waste I would like to see more perfumes/colognes in nonbreakable bottles I keep my body spray bottles on display I would like to see more perfumes/colognes in lighter weight bottles I would like to see more rollerball applicators for perfume/cologne Only cheap perfumes/colognes come in plastic bottles The color of the perfume/cologne bottle is important to me The color of the perfume/cologne liquid is important to me None of the above 1,529 Male, 18-34 243 Male, 35-54 265 Male, 55+ 202 Female, 18-34 278 Female, 35-54 311 Female, 55+ 230 % % % % % % % 35 33 31 21 50 35 37 32 28 23 20 39 37 45 32 26 28 16 45 33 38 22 27 20 14 32 22 17 20 21 15 7 32 23 19 16 18 13 9 22 18 14 13 15 12 9 14 13 13 11 15 11 7 17 8 9 9 16 8 4 14 7 4 8 14 8 3 11 6 3 25 19 29 50 10 23 23 SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 107 Scent Preference Fragrances US, September 2012 Scent Preference Key points Scents that are considered fresh are the most likely to be preferred by those who wear fragrances. However, due to the wide range of available scents and limited vocabulary consumers have when describing fragrance, it’s difficult to gauge what fresh actually means to consumers. Young female fragrance wearers are most likely to prefer fruity and food related scents, which is not surprising considering the large selection of fruity and food type scents available at retailers like Bath & Body Works, which are especially popular with this consumer. Men are most likely to prefer musk or woody scents. Fresh scents most popular with all respondents While fragrance wearers have claimed a preference for fresh scents, it’s difficult to interpret what freshness means due to the very limited fragrance vocabulary consumers have as well as the fact that consumers didn’t actually smell fragrances when taking this survey. However, the fact that fresh is a popular term to describe fragrances suggests an opportunity to market fragrances as fresh. Fresh also can be perceived as meaning light or clean, which are desirable qualities, particularly to those consumers that are concerned about fragrances being too strong or heavy. This point was further illustrated in the Innovations and Innovators section where companies like Demeter are launching more “singular” fragrances with fresh scents like Clean Skin. In a different direction, young women report a preference for floral scents, and also express the greatest interest in fruity and food related scents. Targeting these engaged consumers with bold, unusual scents is an opportunity to keep them involved and excited in this highly saturated category. Brands like Olay and Secret are targeting these younger consumers with unique fragrances that are more experiential (see Brand Share—Women’s Fragrance). Interestingly, fragrance preferences in other categories like candles also indicate younger consumers preferring fruity and food related scents (see Mintel’s Candles—U.S., August 2012). As mentioned throughout this report, opportunities exist for fragrances to co-brand with candles to offer fragrance lines that appeal to specific target age groups. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 108 Scent Preference Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 61: SCENT PREFERENCE, BY GENDER AND AGE, MAY 2012 “When it comes to choosing fragrances, which of the following scent types do you prefer?” All Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances Fresh Floral Musk Citrus Fruit Woody Powder Food related scents such as vanilla or cinnamon Something else 1,529 Male, 18-34 243 Male, 35-54 265 Male, 55+ 202 Female, 18-34 278 Female, 35-54 311 Female, 55+ 230 % % % % % % % 55 38 31 29 25 23 19 16 49 21 32 28 32 27 14 14 53 20 46 28 15 32 13 11 51 19 40 27 11 28 15 8 54 59 19 34 46 15 20 31 64 49 28 32 29 20 23 18 57 51 27 23 9 18 25 14 2 2 2 3 1 2 4 SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 109 Race and Hispanic Origin Fragrances US, September 2012 Race and Hispanic Origin Key points Black, Asian, and Hispanic consumers are strong targets for the fragrance industry as they are significantly more likely to wear virtually all fragrance forms when compared to total respondents. Asian fragrance wearers are more likely to use traditional fragrance forms like EDP and EDT daily while black fragrance wearers are more likely to use line extension items like scented lotions from mass retailers and scented shower gel on a daily basis. Black fragrance wearers are more likely to experiment with fragrance and alternate among a few favorite scents while Asian and Hispanic fragrance wearers are more likely to use fragrance as a way to express their personality. Multicultural consumers highly engaged in the category Black, Asian, and Hispanic consumers report higher than average use of nearly all fragrance forms as well as higher than average daily use of fragrance. This is particularly notable among Asians and Hispanics, with 20% and 23% reporting daily usage of perfume, respectively, compared to 13% of total respondents. Black consumers are more likely to use line extension items like body spray, scented body lotions from mass retailers, and shower gels on a daily basis. Regardless of product preferences, multicultural consumers over index in usage of many forms of fragrance, making them a lucrative market for advertising, product promotion, and sampling. However, the opportunity to target specific skin needs while still delivering scent does exist. This is particularly true with black consumers who are more likely to suffer from dry skin and are more likely to use moisturizers than other ethnic groups (see Mintel’s Blacks and Personal Care—U.S., March 2011). Creating products that meet the specific needs of these consumers while delivering the scent they crave will likely be a winning combination. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 110 Race and Hispanic Origin Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 62: FRAGRANCE USAGE, BY RACE/HISPANIC ORIGIN, ANY WEAR OR EVERY DAY, MAY 2012 “Which of the following best describe how often you wear each of following fragrance types?” All White Black Hispanic 307 % Asian or Pacific Islander 105 % 2,000 % 1,482 % Perfume/parfum: Any wear Every day 45 13 41 11 55 15 59 20 61 23 Eau de parfum: Any wear Every day 29 4 25 3 37 5 50 14 42 7 Eau de toilette: Any wear Every day 32 5 28 5 41 5 53 14 49 10 Eau de cologne: Any wear Every day 37 6 33 6 47 6 50 5 45 9 Body spray: Any wear Every day 50 12 46 11 63 18 59 14 63 15 Aftershave: Any wear Every day 30 6 29 6 31 5 47 9 39 6 Roll on perfume: Any wear Every day 20 4 16 2 30 8 43 10 32 8 Scented body lotion from a high end or specialty retailer: Any wear Every day 45 8 42 7 54 10 60 11 58 11 Scented body lotion from a mass lotion manufacturer: Any wear Every day 53 12 47 9 71 26 69 18 65 17 Scented body powder: Any wear Every day 30 5 26 4 38 9 48 12 40 7 Scented soap/shower gel: Any wear Every day 71 35 69 33 78 43 77 32 80 39 Base: internet users aged 18+ 300 % SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 111 Race and Hispanic Origin Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 63: BRANDS OF PERFUME, COLOGNE, AND TOILET WATER USED, BY RACE/HISPANIC ORIGIN, JANUARY 2011-MARCH 2012 “Please indicate the brands of perfume, cologne, or toilet water you use.” Base: adults 18+ who use perfume, cologne, or toilet water Bath & Body Works Victoria’s Secret Avon Calvin Klein Estée Lauder Ralph Lauren Chanel Dolce & Gabanna Giorgio Armani adidas Cool Water by Davidoff Gucci Tommy Hilfiger All 13,371 White 10,104 Black 1,222 Asian 344 Hispanic 5,342 % % % % % 21 16 11 11 9 8 7 7 6 5 5 5 5 20 14 10 8 9 7 6 5 5 4 4 3 4 28 21 18 15 8 13 8 14 7 10 10 13 11 15 14 6 24 13 12 10 6 6 5 9 4 7 13 19 13 17 7 10 8 10 9 8 6 8 6 SOURCE: MINTEL/EXPERIAN SIMMONS NCS/NHCS W INTER 2012 ADULT FULL YEAR—POP Black fragrance wearers like to experiment with fragrance Black fragrance wearers are more likely to report alternating between a few scents as well as experimenting with different scents when compared to total respondents. Creating sample packs or trial sizes could appeal to this desire to experiment, particularly if offered within black consumers’ preferred fragrance forms like body sprays, lotions, and shower gels. Asians and Hispanics are more likely to report using fragrance to express their personality as well as buy the latest fragrance launches. Asians are also the most likely to report wearing a signature fragrance. Since these consumers prefer more traditional fragrance forms and use scent as a way to express themselves, targeting them with advertising that promotes confidence as well as “uniqueness” may be appealing. Product advertising and outreach efforts to multicultural consumers should reflect their usage behavior in promotional messaging. For example, since black users are more likely to experiment with scent, depicting images of consumers trying a few fragrances might be a more powerful way to communicate with this target. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 112 Race and Hispanic Origin Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 64: ATTITUDES TOWARD WEARING FRAGRANCES, BY RACE/HISPANIC ORIGIN, MAY 2012 “Thinking now about your attitudes toward wearing fragrance, which, if any, of the following statements do you agree with?” Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances I alternate between a few favorite scents I feel more confident when I wear fragrance I wear different fragrance scents for different occasions I save my more expensive fragrance products for special occasions only I use fragrance to express my personality I like to experiment with different scents I never leave the house without wearing fragrance I always wear my signature fragrance I change my fragrance based on the season I find it difficult to know which fragrance suits me I like to buy the latest fragrance launches I’ve yet to find a scent I really like None of the above All White Black Hispanic 270 % Asian or Pacific Islander 84 % 1,529 % 1,095 % 48 40 34 45 39 31 56 40 41 46 36 33 50 45 42 31 28 39 36 39 28 28 26 22 16 12 9 8 9 26 26 23 20 14 12 8 7 11 30 34 33 24 18 10 11 8 5 35 29 24 27 24 17 14 13 8 36 31 32 21 20 16 16 13 4 262 % SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 113 Race and Hispanic Origin Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 65: FRAGRANCE PREFERENCES, BY RACE/HISPANIC ORIGIN, MAY 2012 “Still thinking about your attitudes toward fragrances, which, if any, of the following statements do you agree with?” Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances The choice of fragrance in stores can be overwhelming Fine fragrances are a luxury that I buy only occasionally I buy new fragrances on impulse, when I smell something I like I wear classic scents, such as Chanel No. 5, Obsession, etc. I wear fashion designer fragrances, such as Dior, Jimmy Choo, Armani, Chloé, etc. I prefer to wear scents with matching body lotions I only buy online if I’m replacing a product I already know I like I am willing to spend more money on a fragrance if it comes with an accompanying lotion I am willing to spend more money on a fragrance if it comes with an accompanying travel size sample I find fragrance counters/consultants intimidating I wear celebrity fragrances, such as Justin Bieber Someday, Curious (Britney Spears), etc. None of the above All White Black Hispanic 270 Asian or Pacific Islander 84 1,529 1,095 % % % % % 28 29 26 26 24 27 25 31 23 32 27 25 35 24 30 24 22 26 20 30 20 16 30 18 28 20 19 16 19 31 14 26 20 24 19 17 14 24 23 22 14 12 17 24 18 12 8 13 7 7 11 17 10 15 11 17 19 13 12 10 262 SOURCE: MINTEL Asian and Hispanic fragrance wearers express interest in fragrance product innovations Asian and Hispanic fragrance wearers are more likely to be interested in added properties as well as innovative forms when it comes to fragrance. Adding functionality is clearly appealing to consumers across the board, as it boosts consumer perception of product value and efficacy, especially in a category that isn’t always viewed as a “necessity.” Since Asians and Hispanics express particularly high interest in added properties, advertising these benefits in targeted advertising and product promotions will be important. Asians in particular express higher than average interest in innovative product forms. This could be tied to their desire to express their personality with fragrance and wanting to be “in the know” when it comes to the latest products. As further detailed in the Interest in Product Innovations section, creative sampling methods like scented tattoo giveaways could generate excitement among this demographic. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 114 Race and Hispanic Origin Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 66: INTEREST IN PRODUCT INNOVATIONS—ANY INTERESTED, BY RACE/HISPANIC ORIGIN, MAY 2012 “How interested would you be in the following?” Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances Properties: Fragrances that are mood enhancing/mood boosting Fragrances with stress relieving properties Fragrances that provide an energy boost/pick me up Fragrances that have anti-aging properties Fragrances that are antibacterial Fragrances that have appetite-suppressing properties Forms: A pill you could swallow that emitted fragrance through your pores A chewing gum that emitted fragrance A temporary tattoo/body art that included fragrance Scent extensions: Scented candles that smell the same as my favorite fragrance Air fresheners that smell the same as my favorite fragrance Dryer sheets that smell the same as my favorite fragrance Laundry detergents that smell the same as my favorite fragrance All White Black Hispanic 270 Asian or Pacific Islander 84 1,529 1,095 % % % % % 76 75 76 88 84 74 69 72 68 75 69 83 79 80 75 63 60 50 63 56 49 56 70 46 75 77 64 71 68 57 29 28 24 48 44 26 21 24 19 27 19 52 44 35 26 65 62 70 74 71 62 59 69 77 65 60 58 66 69 64 58 56 60 71 63 262 SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 115 Cluster Analysis Fragrances US, September 2012 Cluster Analysis In this section, Mintel identifies three unique groups of fragrance purchasers by performing statistical analysis on consumer questions about their attitudes toward beauty and personal care products. These results can be used in product development, devising retailing strategies, or shaping advertising campaigns. The clustering process involved factor analysis of individual survey items followed by Kmeans cluster analysis. The resulting three clusters were selected for 1,529 internet users aged 18+, who wear fragrance. Mintel named the three clusters according to their particular characteristics. FIGURE 67: TARGET CLUSTERS, MAY 2012 Influencers 47% Seekers 31% Uninvolved 22% SOURCE: MINTEL Cluster 1: Seekers Characteristics Seekers are involved in the beauty and personal care category but they seek recommendations from a variety of sources including professionals, friends, family, magazines, and blogs prior to making decisions about products. Seekers care about their appearance and believe that branded beauty and personal care products work better than private label and are willing to spend more to get the quality that they are seeking. Seekers are fairly evenly split among gender and age, though they tend to skew slightly higher in household income with 22% falling in the $100K-149K group, compared to 19% of total respondents. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 116 Cluster Analysis Fragrances US, September 2012 Opportunity While Seekers are interested in the category, they actually show lower than average usage of most fragrance forms. This is likely due to the lack of confidence this group feels when picking out products, ultimately preventing them from trying products outside of their “comfort zone.” For example, 26% of fragrance wearers report wearing roll-on perfume compared to only 16% of Seekers. Roll-on perfumes are a newer trend in the fragrance industry, but since Seekers are “late adopters” this form is likely not part of their product portfolio. They are also more likely to express being overwhelmed by the number of fragrance choices available when compared to the other two cluster groups and are more likely to buy scents they are already familiar with. Since this group lacks some confidence in their ability to pick out products they rely on recommendations from outside sources as well as their previous experience with a product. Seekers are less likely to be influenced by innovative forms or the “cool” factor but are interested in products that provide real benefits and functionality. This is illustrated in the Cluster Characteristics Tables below where Seekers show equal interest in added product benefits like mood boosting or antiaging when compared to total respondents but show significantly less interest in innovative product forms (e.g., scented tattoos, fragrance pills). Targeting these consumers with “proof of efficacy” advertising rather than clever ad or social media campaigns is likely going to be the most effective strategy with Seekers. They are also the consumers most likely to benefit from in-store consultants and beauty experts when searching for a new product to best meet their needs. Traditional sampling methods like in-store giveaways are likely to be an effective strategy with Seekers since previous experience with a product is an important influencer for this group. Cluster 2: Uninvolved Characteristics As suggested by their name, the Uninvolved cluster is not highly engaged in the beauty and personal care category. They likely buy products based on price and only buy what they need to meet their basic grooming needs. They represent the smallest cluster and are more likely to be male, older, and fall into the lower household income groups. Opportunity There is little opportunity to engage the Uninvolved cluster in the fragrance category. They are the least likely to participate in the category and less likely than average to indicate an interest in fragrances. Marketing efforts need not be geared specifically to this relatively small group of consumers. Rather, keeping basic, affordable product offerings available in the category will meet the simple needs of these shoppers. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 117 Cluster Analysis Fragrances US, September 2012 Cluster 3: Influencers Characteristics Influencers are highly involved in the beauty and personal care category and are the most likely to try new products and want to stand out from the crowd. They are less concerned with recommendations and prefer to be trailblazers when it comes to trying new products and setting trends. Influencers are confident and care about their appearance. They aren’t necessarily motivated by price but are more likely to be influenced by products that claim eco-friendliness or social responsibility. Influencers are the biggest segment and are more likely to be female and younger with little differentiation among household income. Opportunity Influencers represent nearly 50% of fragrance wearers and are the most engaged in the category with reported usage of nearly all fragrance forms being higher than average. This group is more likely to report shopping in virtually all retailers when compared to total respondents but specialty beauty tops their list of preferred retailers as well as other high end retailers like department stores and Sephora. This group is also most likely to use fragrance to express their personality as well as buy fragrance on impulse. Influencers are clearly the “early adopter” cluster and love to try new products, new forms, and often dictate what’s cool. They don’t rely on recommendations from others as they feel well-informed and confident in their ability to purchase products and know what they like. As opposed to Seekers, Influencers express a higher than average interest in new product forms like scented tattoos as well as added product benefits. This group likes to be “in the know” so targeting them with social media campaigns, exclusive offers, and creative sampling (i.e., scented tattoo giveaways at outdoor events) is likely to be the most effective strategy for further engaging this group. Also, while this group is highly engaged, they are not very brand loyal with their penchant for experimenting and trying new products. However, maintaining loyalty by extending fragrances into new product forms could be one way to keep this consumer from straying. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 118 Cluster Analysis Fragrances US, September 2012 Cluster characteristic tables FIGURE 68: FRAGRANCE USAGE, BY TARGET CLUSTERS, MAY 2012 “Which of the following best describe how often you wear each of following fragrance types?” Base: internet users aged 18+ Any wear Scented soap/shower gel Body spray Scented body lotion from a mass lotion manufacturer Perfume/parfum Scented body lotion from a high end or specialty retailer Eau de cologne Eau de toilette Aftershave Eau de parfum Scented body powder Roll on perfume All 1,529 % Seekers 477 % Uninvolved 342 % Influencers 710 % 81 65 63 59 56 48 42 40 38 37 26 81 61 57 48 49 42 31 33 26 23 16 73 55 49 49 40 45 36 51 31 37 23 85 73 74 71 68 53 53 39 49 45 35 SOURCE: MINTEL FIGURE 69: FRAGRANCE PREFERENCES, BY TARGET CLUSTERS, MAY 2012 “Still thinking about your attitudes toward fragrances, which, if any, of the following statements do you agree with?” Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances The choice of fragrance in stores can be overwhelming Fine fragrances are a luxury that I buy only occasionally I buy new fragrances on impulse, when I smell something I like I wear classic scents, such as Chanel No. 5, Obsession, etc. I wear fashion designer fragrances, such as Dior, Jimmy Choo, Armani, Chloé, etc. I prefer to wear scents with matching body lotions I only buy online if I’m replacing a product I already know I like I am willing to spend more money on a fragrance if it comes with an accompanying lotion I am willing to spend more money on a fragrance if it comes with an accompanying travel size sample I find fragrance counters/consultants intimidating I wear celebrity fragrances, such as Justin Bieber Someday, Curious (Britney Spears), etc. None of the above All 1,529 % Seekers 477 % Uninvolved 342 % Influencers 710 % 28 27 27 32 31 21 21 16 17 28 29 36 24 20 23 18 14 12 28 25 20 19 19 20 13 11 24 22 17 15 8 23 14 12 7 18 12 8 13 7 10 4 12 11 17 19 31 9 SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 119 Cluster Analysis Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 70: ATTITUDES TOWARD FRAGRANCE PACKAGING, BY TARGET CLUSTERS, MAY 2012 “Please indicate which of the following statements about fragrance packaging you agree with.” Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances I would be interested in purchasing product refills for my perfume/cologne bottles to save money I keep my perfume/cologne bottles on display I would be interested in purchasing product refills for my perfume/cologne bottles to cut down on waste I would like to see more perfumes/colognes in non-breakable bottles I keep my body spray bottles on display I would like to see more perfumes/colognes in lighter weight bottles I would like to see more rollerball applicators for perfume/cologne Only cheap perfumes/colognes come in plastic bottles The color of the perfume/cologne bottle is important to me The color of the perfume/cologne liquid is important to me None of the above All 1,529 % Seekers 477 % Uninvolved 342 % Influencers 710 % 35 36 22 41 32 32 31 31 18 22 41 37 22 20 17 26 20 16 18 14 9 11 27 20 13 9 11 16 11 9 8 25 12 7 6 29 6 6 4 40 14 12 11 14 SOURCE: MINTEL FIGURE 71: INTEREST IN PRODUCT INNOVATIONS– ANY INTERESTED, BY TARGET CLUSTERS, MAY 2012 “How interested would you be in the following?” Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances Properties: Fragrances that are mood enhancing/mood boosting Fragrances with stress relieving properties Fragrances that provide an energy boost/pick me up Fragrances that have anti-aging properties Fragrances that are antibacterial Fragrances that have appetite-suppressing properties Forms: A pill you could swallow that emitted fragrance through your pores A chewing gum that emitted fragrance A temporary tattoo/body art that included fragrance Scent extensions: Scented candles that smell the same as my favorite fragrance Air fresheners that smell the same as my favorite fragrance Dryer sheets that smell the same as my favorite fragrance Laundry detergents that smell the same as my favorite fragrance All 1,529 % Seekers 477 % Uninvolved 342 % Influencers 710 % 76 74 69 63 60 50 76 72 68 63 59 45 58 59 52 47 50 38 85 82 79 70 66 59 29 22 26 35 26 21 21 11 22 19 32 29 65 64 48 74 62 60 58 59 57 55 48 48 46 70 68 66 SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 120 Cluster Analysis Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 72: STEPS TAKEN BEFORE TRYING A NEW FRAGRANCE, BY TARGET CLUSTERS, MAY 2012 “Thinking about the last fragrance you bought, which of the following steps did you take before purchasing?” Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances Learning about the scent: Smelled it (net) Smelled it on a person Smelled it in a magazine sample Heard about it (net) Heard about it from a friend Read about it in a magazine Company promotions (net) Received a sample from a sampling box company Approached by a salesperson in a store Was purchasing a scent I was already familiar with Other All 1,529 % Seekers 477 % Uninvolved 342 % Influencers 710 % 51 35 27 25 18 10 27 17 14 39 6 48 33 25 22 15 9 23 14 12 43 7 39 25 19 18 14 6 20 13 10 37 9 58 41 31 30 22 12 34 21 18 37 4 SOURCE: MINTEL FIGURE 73: STEPS TAKEN BEFORE TRYING A NEW FRAGRANCE, BY TARGET CLUSTERS, MAY 2012 “Thinking about the last fragrance you bought, which of the following steps did you take before purchasing?” Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances Trial: Visited a retailer (net) Visited a retailer to get a live trial of the scent – On a paper/sample stick Visited a retailer to get a live trial of the scent – On me Used a magazine sample to try out the scent on me Purchased a small sample size/trial size Other None All 1,529 % Seekers 477 % Uninvolved 342 % Influencers 710 % 48 26 47 25 39 18 53 30 34 31 29 38 27 16 3 27 26 13 3 29 19 13 4 36 31 19 1 22 SOURCE: MINTEL Cluster methodology This cluster analysis used the following question about attitudes toward beauty and personal care from Mintel’s custom research survey to create three clusters. Three clusters were created based on respondents’ overall attitudes and behaviors in the overall beauty and personal care category. These clusters were applied to the 1,529 internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 121 Cluster Analysis Fragrances US, September 2012 “How much do you agree or disagree with each of the following statements?” Higher-priced beauty and personal care products work better than less expensive ones I am willing to pay extra for better quality beauty and personal care products Branded beauty and personal care products are better quality than a store’s own label/private label I like to splurge on myself when it comes to beauty and personal care products I like to try new brands of beauty and personal care products I often buy beauty and personal care products on the spur of the moment I like to try new beauty and personal care products ahead of everybody else Recommendations from friends/family influence by beauty and personal care product purchases Recommendations from professionals influence my beauty and personal care product choices Recommendations from websites/blogs influence my beauty and personal care product choices Recommendations from magazines influence my beauty and personal care product choices It’s important to me that beauty and personal care product packaging is made from recycled materials It’s important to me that beauty and personal care product packaging can be recycled after use I am influenced in my purchases by a beauty and personal care company’s record on social responsibility It’s important to me that beauty and personal care products are produced in a sustainable way I want to stand out from the crowd It’s important to me that I always look my best when I leave the house I get a boost of self-esteem from my beauty and personal care products I feel more attractive when I am well groomed People look more professional when they are well groomed Please note that column shares may not sum to 100% due to rounding. All statistical significance is reported at the 95% confidence level. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 122 Custom Consumer Groups—Teens Fragrances US, September 2012 Custom Consumer Groups—Teens Key points Axe and Bath & Body Works are the most used brands by teens, but brand preferences change as teens get older. Traditional fragrance forms like perfume and cologne are the most frequently used fragrance products among teens. Young female teens aged 12-14 are the most likely to be influenced by celebrity endorsements. Aftershave use increases as male teens age Aftershave use increases from 28% among teen boys aged 12-14 to 47% among teen boys aged 15-17. This isn’t terribly surprising given that male teens are just starting to shave and begin puberty during these years. However, targeting these young consumers as they are learning to use a new product could be an opportunity for a brand to develop a relationship with the teen, potentially gaining a loyal consumer for life. In addition, these consumers are highly engaged in the category with 69% of male teens reporting usage of cologne, compared to 41% of male adults (see Fragrance Usage—Appendix). Keeping these young consumers engaged by creative sampling, innovative product forms, and product benefits (see Interest in Product Innovations) could help garner excitement and keep male consumers excited about the category. FIGURE 74: USE OF AFTERSHAVE LOTION AND COLOGNE, BY MALE AND AGE, OCTOBER 2010-NOVEMBER 2011 “Please indicate the types of aftershave lotion or cologne products you use.” Base: male teens aged 12-17 who use aftershave lotion or cologne All 240 % Male 12-14 107 % Male 15-17 133 % Cologne Body spray Aftershave lotion 69 48 38 70 52 28 69 45 47 SOURCE: MINTEL/EXPERIAN SIMMONS NCS/NHCS FALL 2011 TEENS FULL YEAR—POP © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 123 Custom Consumer Groups—Teens Fragrances US, September 2012 Axe is the most used brand among male teens, though usage drops with age Axe is the most popular brand with teenage boys who use fragrance, but reported usage drops from 53% among young men aged 12-14 to 33% among young men aged 15-17. Axe is likely the first introduction to fragrance for many young tweens/teens that are just starting to develop a daily grooming routine. Since Axe offers a variety of personal care products including deodorant, shower gel, haircare, and body spray at an affordable price, Axe meets most of the grooming needs of young male teens. However, as teens get older, they may start working, doing their own shopping, and experimenting with other brands. For example, among those who use aftershave or cologne, while only 7% of male teens aged 12-14 report using adidas, this number jumps to 25% for male teens aged 15-17. Calvin Klein also increases in popularity among older male teens. adidas and Calvin Klein are sold at a higher-price point than Axe, and perhaps are seen as a more “adult” choice for fragrance. FIGURE 75: USE OF AFTERSHAVE LOTION OR COLOGNE, BY MALE AND AGE, OCTOBER 2010-NOVEMBER 2011 “Please indicate the brands of aftershave lotion or cologne you use.” Base: male teens aged 12-17 who use aftershave lotion or cologne All 243 % Male 12-14 109 % Male 15-17 134 % Axe Old Spice adidas Calvin Klein Tag BODman Cool Water Gillette Avon Giorgio Armani Ralph Lauren 42 21 16 10 9 8 8 6 5 4 4 53 23 7 6 8 7 3 1 5 3 4 33 19 25 13 10 9 12 10 5 5 4 SOURCE: MINTEL/EXPERIAN SIMMONS NCS/NHCS FALL 2011 TEENS FULL YEAR—POP Cologne and perfume are preferred forms among teens While body spray is the most used form when averaged across both male and female teen fragrance wearers, cologne has the highest reported usage among male teens and perfume has the highest usage among female teens. Body sprays are appealing to both sexes though usage does appear to drop as teens get older. Body sprays are likely tweens’/teens’ first experience with fragrance as they offer a lighter scent at a lower-price. As teens get older and start making more of their own purchase decisions, traditional fragrance forms like perfume and cologne become more popular. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 124 Custom Consumer Groups—Teens Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 76: USE OF PERFUME, COLOGNE, AND TOILET WATER, BY GENDER AND AGE, OCTOBER 2010-NOVEMBER 2011 “Please indicate the types of perfume, cologne, and toilet water products you use.” Base: teens age 12-17 who use perfume, cologne, or toilet water Body spray Perfume Cologne Toilet water All 968 Male 12-14 121 Male 15-17 171 Female 12-14 319 Female 15-17 357 % % % % % 61 56 28 4 59 9 66 4 47 12 75 2 68 81 8 5 63 78 5 5 SOURCE: MINTEL/EXPERIAN SIMMONS NCS/NHCS FALL 2011 TEENS FULL YEAR—POP Bath & Body Works tops the list for female teens Bath & Body Works is the most used brand among female teen fragrance wearers, though usage does drop slightly as these young women age. Among those who wear fragrance, Victoria’s Secret grows in popularity with 30% of 12-14 year old girls using the brand jumping to 40% of female teens aged 15-17. On the contrary, Avon has reported usage of 22% among teen girls aged 12-14, dropping to 10% of young women aged 15-17. Avon is likely a brand introduced to tweens/teens by their moms and as teens age and start making more of their own purchase decisions, specialty retailers like Victoria’s Secret increase in popularity. Since female teens are more likely to shop at stores traditionally found in malls, mall advertising can be particularly effective among this group. According to Mintel’s Spending Habits of the Teen Consumer—U.S., August 2011, a study conducted by Scarborough Research/Arbitron Inc. claimed that “95% of teen shoppers notice advertising on display in malls with the majority of teen shoppers agreeing with the statement ‘the advertising I see while in the mall (such as posters, TV/video screens, interactive displays/kiosks, promotional events and sampling) makes me want to go to specific stores within the mall.’” This represents a huge opportunity for retailers and marketers to further expose an already captive consumer to their brands. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 125 Custom Consumer Groups—Teens Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 77: USE OF PERFUME, COLOGNE, AND TOILET WATER, BY GENDER AND AGE, OCTOBER 2010-NOVEMBER 2011 “Please indicate the brands of perfume, cologne, or toilet water you use.” Base: teens age 12-17 who use perfume, cologne, or toilet water Bath & Body Works Victoria’s Secret Avon adidas Britney Spears Calvin Klein Jennifer Lopez/Jlo Gucci Ralph Lauren Chanel Dolce & Gabanna Nautica All 964 Male 12-14 121 Male 15-17 171 Female 12-14 318 Female 15-17 354 % % % % % 34 24 12 10 8 8 7 6 6 5 5 5 9 1 4 20 0 14 0 7 5 0 0 4 1 6 7 26 0 17 0 4 14 1 6 13 51 30 22 3 10 4 12 6 4 4 10 2 47 40 10 3 14 3 9 6 5 11 3 3 SOURCE: MINTEL/EXPERIAN SIMMONS NCS/NHCS FALL 2011 TEENS FULL YEAR—POP Young female teens most likely to be influenced by celebrities Female teens aged 12-14 are the most likely to agree that they like to buy the same products used by celebrities. Not surprisingly, they over index in usage of celebrity fragrances. This demographic represents the majority of the fan base for popular tween/teen stars like Justin Bieber, and it would follow suit that their fragrances would experience similar success. As teens age out of this group, their interest in such fragrances also wanes. However, fragrance launches endorsed by celebrities popular with this young tween/teen set is a lucrative strategy, at least for the short term. FIGURE 78: ATTITUDES ABOUT CELEBRITIES, BY GENDER AND AGE, OCTOBER 2010-NOVEMBER 2011 “Please tell us the extent to which you agree or disagree with each statement by marking one box opposite each statement” All Base: teens age 12-17 Any agree I like to buy the same products that celebrities use 1,776 % Male 12-14 426 % Male 15-17 429 % Female 12-14 458 % Female 15-17 463 % 15 13 11 24 13 SOURCE: MINTEL/EXPERIAN SIMMONS NCS/NHCS FALL 2011 TEENS FULL YEAR—POP © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 126 Custom Consumer Groups—Teens Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 79: CELEBRITY FRAGRANCE BRAND USAGE, BY THOSE WHO LIKE TO BUY THE SAME PRODUCTS THAT CELEBRITIES USE, OCTOBER 2010-NOVEMBER 2011 “Please indicate the brands of perfume, cologne, or toilet water you use.” “Please tell us the extent to which you agree or disagree with each statement by marking one box opposite each statement.” All Base: teens age 12-17 Celebrity fragrances (NET) Britney Spears Jennifer Lopez/JLo Celine Dion Elizabeth Taylor Shania Twain Other 1,776 % I like to buy the same products that celebrities use 260 % 9 4 4 2 2 2 54 18 7 12 10 1 3 63 SOURCE: MINTEL/EXPERIAN SIMMONS NCS/NHCS FALL 2011 TEENS FULL YEAR—POP © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 127 Key Household Purchase Measures—SymphonyIRI Group Builders Panel Data Fragrances US, September 2012 Key Household Purchase Measures—SymphonyIRI Group Builders Panel Data In this section, Mintel examines selected brands of shaving lotion/men’s fragrances to provide manufacturers with a snapshot of their performance in the market. Manufacturers can see where their brands fall on the competitive map and develop strategies to grow sales. This analysis examines purchase patterns for shaving lotion/men’s fragrances, with an in-depth look at the following consumer packaged goods products: Shaving lotion/cologne/talc In the brand maps, ideally, a brand will have high household penetration and a high buying rate. Overview of shaving lotion/men’s fragrances The shaving lotion/men’s fragrance household penetration of 20.5% is similar to that of women’s fragrances. The purchase cycle is rather long at 89 days, and there is an annual average of 1.9 purchase occasions. Annual volume is very small at only 12.4 ounces, and a slight 6.7 ounces for volume per purchase occasion. In addition to the shaving lotion/cologne/talc segment, the category also includes the men’s gift pack/sets segment, which is made up primarily of premium fragrance products. Consumer insights on key purchase measures The shaving lotion/cologne/talc segment is made up of a combination of value and prestige brands. However, for the most part value brands fare better and are among the leaders, including private label. The segment has a small household penetration rate of 16.7%. The purchase cycle is rather long at 99 days, as these products appear to be used somewhat sparingly by men, which reduces the need for more frequent purchases. There is a yearly average of 1.8 purchase occasions. Annual volume is 8.8 ounces, with volume per purchase occasion of 4.8 ounces. Brand map None of the brands are able to boast a combination of high buying and penetration rates as the chart features two brands with much different target audiences. Old Spice caters to a more mature, older audience and Axe is popular with a younger audience that is targeted with edgy advertising. Old Spice’s target audience is more likely to use some type of fragrance on a regular basis, which helps explain its higher buying volume. Conversely, Axe users may save its usage for special occasions such as dates and weekends so it has a lower buying rate. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 128 Key Household Purchase Measures—SymphonyIRI Group Builders Panel Data Fragrances US, September 2012 FIGURE 80: BRAND MAP, SELECTED BRANDS OF SHAVING LOTION/COLOGNE/TALC, BY HOUSEHOLD PENETRATION, 52 WEEKS ENDING JUNE 26, 2011 8.6 8.5 Old Spice 8.4 Buying Rate 8.3 8.2 8.1 8.0 7.9 7.8 Axe 7.7 7.6 0.0% 1.0% 2.0% 3.0% Penetration 4.0% 5.0% SOURCE: MINTEL/BASED ON SYMPHONYIRI GROUP CONSUMER NETWORK™ Brand leader characteristics None of the top brands generates a strong household penetration rate, allowing Axe to rank number at 4%. Old Spice is next at 2.5% with Gillette Series placing third with 1.3%. The purchase cycle is very long and wide ranging. Old Spice has the shortest cycle at 82 days. By comparison, Williams Lectric Shave is much longer at 156 days. Axe, Afta, and Gillette Series are tied for the most purchase occasions at 1.6 times. Old Spice is alone in second at 1.5 times while private label, Williams Lectric Shave, and Brut are tied for third at 1.4 times. All of the brands generate high loyalty figures with Axe the leader at 69.9%, which shows that the brand has done an effective job of connecting with its younger target audience. Brut appeals to a much older audience and is next at 68% with Williams Lectric Shave also skewing older and in third place at 66.3%. Private label and Brut are tied for the annual volume lead at 10.1 ounces, which is higher than the segment average. Old Spice ranks second at 8.4 ounces with Aqua Velva Classic Ice Blue third at 8.1 ounces. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 129 Key Household Purchase Measures—SymphonyIRI Group Builders Panel Data Fragrances US, September 2012 All of the volume per purchase occasion leaders exceeds the segment average starting with private label at 7.3 ounces. Brut comes in second at 7 ounces with Williams Lectric Shave places third at 6.6 ounces. Key purchase measures FIGURE 81: KEY PURCHASE MEASURES FOR THE TOP BRANDS OF SHAVING LOTION/COLOGNE/TALC, BY HOUSEHOLD PENETRATION, 52 WEEKS ENDING JUNE 26, 2011 Category/Brand Percentage of households buying % Purchase cycle– weighted pairs* Days Purchase occasions per buyer Brand loyalty Volume per buyer per year Volume per purchase occasion # % Ounces Ounces Shaving lotion/men’s fragrance 20.5 89 1.9 na 12.4 6.7 Shaving lotion/cologne/ talc Axe Old Spice Gillette Series Nivea For Men Private label Williams Lectric Shave Brut Afta Aqua Velva Classic Ice Blue 16.7 99 1.8 100.0 8.8 4.8 4.0 2.5 1.3 1.0 1.0 0.8 98 82 117 105 128 156 1.6 1.5 1.6 1.3 1.4 1.4 69.9 63.1 59.0 53.3 58.8 66.3 7.8 8.4 4.9 4.9 10.1 9.4 4.8 5.6 3.1 3.7 7.3 6.6 0.8 0.7 0.7 111 123 149 1.4 1.6 1.3 68.0 58.5 65.5 10.1 5.7 8.1 7.0 3.6 6.1 * consumers must purchase the category at least two times to be included in the purchase computation SOURCE: MINTEL/BASED ON SYMPHONYIRI GROUP CONSUMER NETWORK™ © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 130 Appendix—Other Useful Consumer Tables Fragrances US, September 2012 Appendix—Other Useful Consumer Tables Fragrance usage FIGURE 82: FRAGRANCE USAGE, BY GENDER, MAY 2012 “Which of the following best describe how often you wear each of following fragrance types?” All 2,000 % Male 980 % Female 1,020 % Perfume/parfum: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 45 13 9 9 14 13 29 9 5 7 8 6 60 16 13 11 20 19 Eau de parfum: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 29 4 7 6 11 8 22 3 8 5 6 5 36 5 6 8 17 12 Eau de toilette: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions Never 32 5 7 8 12 7 61 28 4 8 8 7 6 66 36 5 7 8 16 8 55 Eau de cologne: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 37 6 8 8 14 10 41 8 10 9 14 11 32 4 6 7 15 8 Body spray: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 50 12 11 12 15 7 41 10 10 10 11 7 58 15 11 13 20 6 Base: internet users aged 18+ © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 131 Appendix—Other Useful Consumer Tables Fragrances US, September 2012 Roll on perfume: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 20 4 4 5 8 3 22 5 6 7 5 3 18 3 2 3 10 3 Scented body lotion from a fragrance line such as Chanel or a specialty retailer such as Bath & Body Works or Victoria’s Secret: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 45 8 10 11 17 6 28 3 8 8 9 4 62 13 11 13 24 8 Scented body lotion from a lotion manufacturer, such as Nivea or Vaseline: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 53 12 11 12 17 3 41 8 10 12 12 4 64 17 13 13 21 2 Scented body powder: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 30 5 6 7 12 4 30 5 8 8 9 4 30 6 5 5 14 4 Scented soap/shower gel: Any wear Every day Most, but not all, days of the week A few days a week Only occasionally Only for special occasions 71 35 15 12 9 3 62 27 14 12 9 4 79 42 17 11 10 2 SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 132 Appendix—Other Useful Consumer Tables Fragrances US, September 2012 Trying a new fragrance FIGURE 83: STEPS TAKEN BEFORE TRYING A NEW FRAGRANCE, BY GENDER, MAY 2012 “Thinking about the last fragrance you bought, which of the following steps did you take before purchasing?” Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances All 1,529 % Male 710 % Female 819 % 51 35 27 25 18 10 27 17 14 39 6 49 35 25 30 22 12 28 18 15 35 6 53 35 28 20 15 8 27 17 14 42 6 Learning about the scent: Smelled it Smelled it on a person Smelled it in a magazine sample Heard about it Heard about it from a friend Read about it in a magazine Company promotions Received a sample from a sampling box company Approached by a salesperson in a store Was purchasing a scent I was already familiar with Other SOURCE: MINTEL FIGURE 84: STEPS TAKEN BEFORE TRYING A NEW FRAGRANCE, BY GENDER, MAY 2012 “Thinking about the last fragrance you bought, which of the following steps did you take before purchasing?” Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances Trial: Visited a retailer Visited a retailer to get a live trial of the scent—on a paper/sample stick Visited a retailer to get a live trial of the scent—on me Used a magazine sample to try out the scent on me Purchased a small sample size/trial size Other None All 1,529 % Male 710 % Female 819 % 48 26 34 27 16 3 27 48 25 33 24 16 2 32 49 26 35 29 16 3 24 SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 133 Appendix—Other Useful Consumer Tables Fragrances US, September 2012 Purchase locations FIGURE 85: FRAGRANCE PURCHASE LOCATIONS, BY HOUSEHOLD INCOME, MAY 2012 “Where do you buy fragrances?” $50K74.9K 286 $75K99.9K 243 $100K149.9K 295 $150K+ 271 $25K49.9K 317 % % % % % % % Drug store: Any purchase In a store Online 60 57 5 65 63 2 65 61 6 61 57 6 60 57 6 52 50 5 50 47 5 Specialty retailer like Victoria’s Secret or Bath & Body Works: Any purchase In a store Online 59 54 12 51 49 7 54 49 12 60 56 12 72 64 18 62 58 12 50 47 9 Macy’s or other mid-range department store: Any purchase In a store Online 56 52 8 41 38 4 53 49 9 57 50 11 65 60 11 62 58 7 65 62 7 Mass merchandiser: Any purchase In a store Online 55 52 8 58 56 4 62 57 9 59 55 8 58 53 12 48 45 6 37 33 7 JCPenney, Sears, or other valuepriced department store: Any purchase In a store Online 44 41 9 48 45 5 52 48 11 46 42 9 49 45 11 35 31 7 26 24 6 Supermarket: Any purchase In a store Online 43 40 5 48 46 3 49 46 4 44 40 6 44 40 6 36 33 4 32 29 6 TJMaxx, Marshalls, or other discount retailer: Any purchase In a store Online 40 37 5 36 34 3 48 45 4 42 40 5 41 35 8 37 32 6 36 35 3 Online retailer, like Amazon.com: Online 32 22 34 35 41 29 33 Base: internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances All <$25K 1,529 © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 117 134 Appendix—Other Useful Consumer Tables Fragrances US, September 2012 Bloomingdale’s or other high end department store: Any purchase In a store Online 27 23 7 13 11 2 24 18 8 28 21 8 34 28 9 32 29 5 40 37 11 Sephora: Any purchase In a store Online 26 20 9 15 12 5 23 17 8 28 22 9 33 24 14 28 22 9 33 27 12 Clothing store, such as Gap: Any purchase In a store Online 26 23 7 26 22 5 31 27 8 29 24 8 26 22 8 22 20 5 21 21 9 Fragrance-only retailer, such as Perfumania: Any purchase In a store Online 25 18 9 15 11 4 28 21 9 26 19 9 31 19 15 24 18 9 27 18 12 Ulta: Any purchase In a store Online 21 17 5 10 8 3 18 14 7 21 15 6 26 21 6 26 22 5 27 25 5 Duty-free shop: In a store 15 9 16 18 15 13 27 TV retailer, like QCV or HSN (please select “in a store” option for this if purchased via telephone): Any purchase In a store Online 16 9 9 11 7 4 19 10 11 19 11 10 21 10 14 14 7 9 15 9 8 SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 135 Appendix—Other Useful Consumer Tables Fragrances US, September 2012 Interest in product innovations FIGURE 86: INTEREST IN PRODUCT INNOVATIONS, MAY 2012 “How interested would you be in the following?” Base: 1,529 internet users aged 18+ who wear fragrances Any interested % Properties: Fragrances that are mood enhancing/mood boosting Fragrances with stress relieving properties Fragrances that provide an energy boost/pick me up Fragrances that have anti-aging properties Fragrances that are antibacterial Fragrances that have appetite-suppressing properties Forms: A pill you could swallow that emitted fragrance through your pores A chewing gum that emitted fragrance A temporary tattoo/body art that included fragrance Scent extensions: Scented candles that smell the same as my favorite fragrance Air fresheners that smell the same as my favorite fragrance Dryer sheets that smell the same as my favorite fragrance Laundry detergents that smell the same as my favorite fragrance Very interested % Somewhat interested % Not very interested % Not at all interested % 76 32 44 14 10 74 69 29 27 44 42 16 18 11 12 63 60 50 26 22 20 37 38 30 24 26 29 13 14 22 29 10 19 24 47 26 21 8 6 18 15 26 27 48 52 65 21 44 18 17 62 20 42 20 18 60 21 39 22 18 58 20 38 23 19 SOURCE: MINTEL © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 136 Appendix—SymphonyIRI Builders Panel Data Definitions Fragrances US, September 2012 Appendix—SymphonyIRI Builders Panel Data Definitions SymphonyIRI’s Consumer Network is a household panel of nearly 100,000 U.S. households, balanced and weighted to represent current Census demographics on a variety of key consumer variables. In this panel, shoppers scan the UPC barcodes of products they purchase on their shopping trips. Barcoded product information is transmitted electronically to IRI for analysis. Panel data provide manufacturers, retailers, and analysts with a means to examine metrics like brand penetration, purchase cycles, and volumetric purchase measures, and to compare how brands perform against competitive brands in the category. This information all links directly to consumers’ households, allowing manufacturers and retailers to determine their brands’ performance over time, in homes. Household panel data are behavioral data; they consist of scanned UPC barcodes and are useful in supplementing and validating other consumer data sources, such as retailer POS and survey data. POS data tell what products are moving, where, and how much. Survey data are attitudinal data, and come from consumers’ self-reported attitudes and behaviors. Panel data provide a means for researchers to test the relationship between what consumers say they prefer, and what they actually purchase for their households. It must be noted that household panels cover some channels and products better than others. FDMs are well represented in panel data. Specialty channels, like nutrition shops, convenience stores (where products are typically consumed on the spot and, thus, often not scanned), and other channels are not as well depicted in panel data. SymphonyIRI Consumer Network Metrics Selected measures provide insight into consumer purchase patterns. Mintel uses the following measures in this report: Percentage of households buying—or penetration. To be included in this measure, a household (HH) must have purchased the category/brand at least once in the past 52 weeks % HH buying = Households that purchased category, subcategory, or brand X 100 Total households This measure gauges product usage. Purchase cycle (weighted pairs method)—how many days, on average, are between purchases. To be included in this measure, a household must have purchased the category/brand at least twice in the past 52 weeks. For example if: HH1 purchases a product every 15 days HH2 purchases a product every 30 days HH3 purchases a product every 10 days HH4 purchases a product every 5 days © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 137 Appendix—SymphonyIRI Builders Panel Data Definitions Fragrances US, September 2012 Purchase Cycle (weighted pairs) = (15 + 30 + 10 + 5/4 HH’s) = 15-day purchase cycle This measure gauges purchase frequency and can be useful in determining usage. Purchase Cycle (weighted pairs) = Sum of average purchase cycle per household Total households purchasing category Purchase occasions per buyer—shows how often buyers purchase this item in a year; this measure also includes one time buyers. Purchase Occasions Per Buyer = Total Item Purchase Occasions Item Buyers This is another measure of usage and adds a frequency measure to determine usage. Subcategory volume share—this is a measure of loyalty, and shows, in a subcategory, how much of a consumer’s purchases are of a particular brand. Subcategory Volume Share = Brand Volume X 100 Subcategory Volume This measure defines how important brand is in a subcategory based on volume. Volume per buyer—this is a diagnostic measure, showing how much of a category, subcategory, or brand is purchased each year, on average. Volume Per Buyer = Total Volume Sales Total Category/Subcategory/Brand Buyers This measure is most often used as a diagnostic across brands. Volume per purchase occasion—the average category, subcategory, or brand volume purchased by buyers of that category, subcategory, or brand. Volume Per Purchase Occasion = Total Volume Sales of Item Shopping Trips with Item This measure examines quantity, based on volume of a product purchased, each time that category, subcategory, or brand is purchased. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 138 Appendix—Trade Associations Fragrances US, September 2012 Appendix—Trade Associations The following trade associations are associated with the fragrance industry in the U.S. Descriptions provided based on association’s self-description available online. The American Society of Perfumers P.O. Box 1551 West Caldwell, NJ 07004 Tel: 201.991.0040 Web: www.perfumers.org The American Society of Perfumers is a nonprofit organization founded in 1947. It was founded by perfumers working in the U.S. and its main goal is to foster and encourage the art and science of perfumery while promoting professional exchange and conduct within the fragrance industry. Cosmetic Executive Women Inc. (CEW) 286 Madison Ave., 19th Floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212.685.5955 Fax: 212.685.3334 Web: www.cew.org Founded in 1954, CEW is a nonprofit professional organization with more than 4,000 executives in the beauty, cosmetics, fragrance, and related industries. CEW helps members develop career contacts, knowledge, and skills to advance professionally and personally. The Fragrance Foundation 545 Fifth Ave., Suite 900 New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212.725.2755 Fax: 212.779.9058 Web: www.fragrance.org Established in 1949 by six industry leaders affiliated with Elizabeth Arden, Coty, Guerlain, Helena Rubinstein, Chanel, and Parfums Weil, the Fragrance Foundation is the nonprofit affiliate of the international fragrance industry. The Fragrance Foundation develops educational programs about fragrance for the American public. It also serves as a source of industry-related reference materials. Members include manufacturers, suppliers, designers, packagers, retailers, and media/PR agencies. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 139 Appendix—Trade Associations Fragrances US, September 2012 Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) 1101 17th St. NW, Suite 300 Washington, D.C. 20036 Tel: 202.331.1770 Fax: 202.331.1969 Web: www.ctfa.org The PCPC (formerly the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association) is the leading national trade association for the cosmetic and personal care products industry and represents the most innovative names in beauty today. Society of Cosmetic Chemists 120 Wall St., Suite 2400 New York, NY 10005 Tel: 212.668.1500 Fax: 212.668.1504 Web: www.scconline.org Established in 1945, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists has 18 chapters throughout the U.S. and Canada, with more than 4,000 individual members. The society is dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, and uses meetings and publications to further the qualifications and education of cosmetic scientists. Its stated mission is to promote the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists, while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 140 Appendix: Research methodology Appendix: Research Methodology Fragrances US, September 2012 Appendix: Research Methodology Consumer Research In-depth consumer research examines how social, economic, cultural and psychological influences affect attitudes and purchasing decisions. Mintel combines exclusive primary research with syndicated data to provide an accurate and unique analysis. Consumer research is stored in a database supervised by Mintel’s data analysts and statisticians. For additional analysis of survey data, or with questions about consumer research methodology, please contact Mintel at 312.932.0400. Primary Data Analysis For each report Mintel develops custom primary research questions and uses specialty research firms for data collection. Sampling Online surveys In most cases, Mintel selects survey respondents by gender, age, household income, and region so that they are proportionally representative of the entire U.S. adult population. Mintel also slightly oversamples, relative to the population, respondents that are Hispanic or black to ensure an adequate representation of these groups in our survey results and to allow for more precise parameter estimates from our reported findings. In some instances, Mintel also uses specialist panels or targeted sample to reach a certain demographic or target market. Phone surveys Mintel commissions phone surveys for some of its reports. Mintel utilizes both Random Digit Dialing (RDD) and demographic and geographic targeted phone lists for its telephone data collection. Global Market Insite (GMI) Founded in 1999, GMI’s double opt-in U.S. online consumer panel contains approximately 4 million U.S. consumers. GMI recruits its panelists through many different sources including web advertising, permission-based databases and partner-recruited panels. GMI also has a number of specialty panels, including a Hispanic and an African American panel, which Mintel uses to collect data for some of its reports. GMI’s African American panel consists of about 150,000 African American panelists and its Hispanic panel is made up of about 26,000 Hispanic panelists. Secondary Data Analysis In addition to exclusively commissioned surveys, Mintel gathers syndicated data from the most respected consumer research firms. This allows Mintel analysts to form objective and cohesive analysis of consumer attitudes and behavior. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 142 Appendix: Research Methodology Fragrances US, September 2012 Experian Simmons National Consumer Studies Mintel reports frequently draw on the Experian Simmons National Consumer surveys conducted by Experian Consumer Research. The Experian Simmons National Consumer Study (NCS) is a comprehensive survey of American consumers aged 18 and older. It provides single-source measurement of major media, products, services, and in-depth consumer demographic and lifestyle/psychographic characteristics. 20,000 adults 18+ Two-phase data collection o o Phase 1: A telephone placement interview for a self-administered mail survey is conducted with any adult aged 18 or over in the household Phase 2: Self administered survey is mailed to each qualified household member Upfront cash incentives/sweepstakes offer All qualified household members aged 18 or over participate by completing their own personal booklets Principal shopper completes one Household Survey Conducted and released quarterly—Winter, Spring, Summer and Fall Ability to look at full-year and quarterly data The Experian Simmons National Hispanic Study (NHCS) is the only national, multi-media syndicated research instrument targeting the Hispanic market, and is particularly valuable in identifying media habits, product and service usage and attitudes and opinions among this segment. 7,500 Hispanic adults 18+ Two-phase data collection o o Phase 1: A telephone placement interview for a self-administered mail survey is conducted with any adult aged 18 or over in the household Phase 2: Self administered survey is mailed to each qualified household member Survey offered in Spanish or English—respondent’s choice Incentive/sweepstakes offer Conducted and released quarterly—Winter, Spring, Summer and Fall Ability to look at full-year and quarterly data The samples for the Kids and Teens Studies are taken from the same households participating in the adult study. The Kids and Teens Studies provide in-depth insight into these consumer segments to understand their affect on the marketplace, and how and where to reach them. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 143 Appendix: Research Methodology Fragrances US, September 2012 2,500 Teens 12-17 and 2,600 Kids 6-11 Both samples gathered from within NCS participating households Upfront incentive/sweepstakes offer All teens or kids in household participate by completing their own personal booklets Released twice a year—Spring and Fall data releases In some instances Mintel uses Experian’s Mosaic segmentation system to further analyze Experian Simmons NCS/NHCS data. Mosaic is a household-based segmentation system, which classifies 99.5% of all U.S. households and neighborhoods into 60 unique Mosaic types and 12 groupings that share similar demographic and socioeconomic characteristics. More than 300 data variables are used to build Mosaic: 80% is sourced from Experian’s INSOURCE person, household and ZIP+4 level data, and 20% is sourced from 2001Census data at block group. Descriptive content is sourced from Simmons NCS/NHCS data. All of the Mosaic groups and types are listed below: % of U.S. households A – Affluent Suburbia: A01 America's Wealthiest A02 Dream Weavers A03 White-Collar Suburbia A04 Upscale Suburbanites A05 Enterprising Couples A06 Small-Town Success A07 New Suburbia Families 11.19 1.14 1.74 1.43 0.84 0.84 2.38 2.82 B – Upscale America: B01 Status-Conscious Consumers B02 Affluent Urban Professionals B03 Urban Commuter Families B04 Solid Suburban Life B05 Second-Generation Success B06 Successful Suburbia 13.26 1.55 1.44 6.33 0.63 2.40 0.91 C – Small Town Contentment: C01 Second City Homebodies C02 Prime Middle America C03 Suburban Optimists C04 Family Convenience C05 Mid-Market Enterprise 7.64 0.74 3.52 0.61 1.93 0.84 D – Blue Collar Backbone: D01 Nuevo Hispanic Families D02 Working Rural Suburbia D03 Lower-Income Essentials D04 Small-City Endeavors 6.57 2.73 1.06 0.83 1.95 E – American Diversity : E01 Ethnic Urban Mix E02 Urban Blues E03 Professional Urbanites 9.73 1.89 1.74 2.09 © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 144 Appendix: Research Methodology Fragrances US, September 2012 E04 Suburban Advantage E05 American Great Outdoors E06 Mature America 1.15 1.37 1.48 F – Metro Fringe: F01 Steadfast Conservative F02 Moderate Conventionalists F03 Southern Blues F04 Urban Grit: F05 Grass-Roots Living 10.63 6.51 1.60 0.92 0.55 1.05 G – Remote America: G01 Hardy Rural Families G02 Rural Southern Living G03 Coal And Crops G04 Native Americana 7.39 2.70 2.71 1.81 0.18 H – Aspiring Contemporaries: H01 Young Cosmopolitans H02 Minority Metro Communities H03 Stable Careers H04 Aspiring Hispania 11.18 3.22 2.20 4.29 1.48 I – Rural Villages and Farms: I01 Industrious Country Living I02 Americas Farmlands I03 Comfy Country Living I04 Small-Town Connections I05 Hinterland Families 4.77 1.30 1.04 0.73 0.48 1.23 J – Struggling Societies: J01 Rugged Rural Style J02 Latino Nuevo J03 Struggling City Centers J04 College Town Communities J05 Metro Beginnings 8.20 1.62 2.91 1.72 0.98 0.98 K – Urban Essence: K01 Unattached Multi-Cultures K02 Academic Influences K03 African-American Neighborhoods K04 Urban Diversity K05 New Generation Activists K06 Getting By 8.63 0.38 0.47 1.93 2.44 2.37 1.05 L – Varying Lifestyles: L01 Military Family Life L02 Major University Towns L03 Gray Perspectives 0.80 0.31 0.27 0.22 © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 145 Appendix: Research Methodology Fragrances US, September 2012 Statistical Forecasting Statistical modelling For the majority of reports, Mintel produces five-year forecasts based on an advanced statistical technique known as ‘multivariate time series auto-regression’ using the statistical software package SPSS. The model is based on historical market size data taken from Mintel’s own market size database and supplemented by published macroeconomic and demographic data from various private and public sources including the Federal Reserve Board, the U.S. Commerce Department, the Census Bureau, the Council of Economic Advisers, and the Congressional Budget Office. The model searches for relationships between actual market sizes and a selection of relevant and significant macroeconomic and demographic determinants (independent variables) to identify those predictors having the most influence on the market. Factors used in a forecast are stated in the relevant report section alongside an interpretation of their role in explaining the development in demand for the product or market in question. Qualitative insight At Mintel we understand that historic data is limited in its capacity to act as the only force behind the future state of markets. Thus, rich qualitative insights from industry experts regarding future events that might impact upon various markets play an invaluable role in our post statistical modeling evaluation process. As a result, the Mintel forecast complements a rigorous statistical process with in-depth market knowledge and expertise to allow for additional factors or market conditions outside of the capacity of the statistical forecast. Statistical Modelling + Qualitative Insight = Mintel Forecast The Mintel fan chart Forecasts of future economic outcomes are always subject to uncertainty. In order to raise awareness amongst our clients and to illustrate this uncertainty, Mintel has introduced a new way of displaying market size forecasts in the form of a fan-chart. Next to historical market sizes and a current year estimate, the fan chart illustrates the probability of various outcomes for the market value/volume over the next five years. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 146 Appendix: Research Methodology Fragrances US, September 2012 At a 95% confidence interval, we are saying that 95 out of 100 times, the forecast will fall within these outer limits, which we call the best and worst case forecast as these, based on the statistically driven forecast, are the highest (best case) and lowest (worst case) market sizes the market is expected to achieve. Over the next five years, the widening bands successively show the developments that occur within 95%, 90%, 70% and 50% probability intervals. Statistical processes predict the central forecast to fall within the darker shaded area which illustrates 50% probability, i.e. a 5 in 10 chance. A general conclusion: Based on our current knowledge of given historic market size data as well as projections for key macro- and socio-economic measures that were used to create the forecast, we can assume that in 95% of the time the actual market size will fall within the purple shaded fan. In 5% of all cases this model might not be correct due to random errors and the actual market size will fall out of these boundaries. Weather analogy To illustrate uncertainty in forecasting in an everyday example, let us assume the following weather forecast was produced based on the meteorologists’ current knowledge of the previous weather condition during the last few days, atmospheric observations, incoming weather fronts etc. Now, how accurate is this forecast and how certain can we be that the temperature on Saturday will indeed be 15°C? To state that the temperature in central London on Saturday will rise to exactly 15°C is possible but one can’t be 100% certain about that fact. To say the temperature on Saturday will be between 13°C and 17°C is a broader statement and much more probable. © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 147 Appendix: Research Methodology Fragrances US, September 2012 In general, we can say that based on the existing statistical model, one can be 95% certain that the temperature on Saturday will be between 13°C and 17°C, and respectively 50% certain it will be between about 14.5°C and 15.5°C. Again, only in 5% of all cases this model might not be correct due to random errors and the actual temperature on Saturday will fall out of these boundaries and thus will be below 13°C or above 17°C. (To learn more about uncertainty in weather forecasts visit: http://research.metoffice.gov.uk/research/nwp/ensemble/uncertainty.html) © Mintel Group Ltd. All rights reserved. 148 Appendix: Research Methodology Fragrances US, September 2012 Appendix: What is Mintel? Mintel provides industry-leading market intelligence Mintel began over three decades ago, providing food and drink research in the UK. Now the brand spans all corners of the globe. Mintel's leading analysts are world-renowned experts called upon daily by the media to comment, and trusted by the worlds leading brands as their preferred research partner. Mintel's clients gain global insight into consumer behaviour, product innovation and competitive marketing strategies. Our high quality data, meaningful analysis and actionable recommendations always positively impact our clients' business. We help them tap into new product opportunities, build brands, recognise competitive threats and respond to their individual business needs, so they gain competitive strength and profitability. Insight + Impact: Mintel's commitment to its clients is encapsulated in this simple formula. 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