Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen

Andrew Michael
Italian Kitchen
steeped them in Memphis culture. They are ardent fans
Jose Guitierrez. Most would call three and one-half
of the Memphis Tigers and now the Grizzlies. They
years of culinary study more than adequate training
grew up eating at several of the places featured in this
for a life as a chef, but Andy and Michael wanted
book. It is here where their Maw Maws taught them
to further their education by learning Old World
fourteen-year journey from idea to realization. While
how to cook their first foods. They played sports here,
cooking techniques at the Italian Culinary Institute
Michael Italian Kitchen, it all starts with family. The
still in college, the two friends began formulating the
attended school, and learned about the soul of the city
in Calabria, Italy. They yearned to experience first-
two childhood friends who grew up in Memphis each
beginnings of a dream to own their own restaurant,
with their friends. It is where they want to write their
hand the history and the culture of the country that
come from large extended families of principally
and although the next decade and a half would take
own family story.
had instilled the skills and instinctive talents they had
Italian heritage, where family celebrations revolved
them far from home as they pursued a multi-level
around food. As they are proud to point out, “Family
national and international journey of culinary study and
Charleston to attend Johnson and Wales University,
up. They made the most of their time together in the
dinners truly shaped our lives. The hours spent
training, there was never any question that Memphis
where they earned a second degree, this time in the
Mediterranean, soaking up everything they could as
watching our grandmothers (Catherine Chiozza and
would be where they wanted to make their mark.
Culinary Arts. After two years in Charleston, they
they studied, cooked, traveled and dined throughout
returned home to Memphis to complete an 18-month
Italy, as well as living for a while in Lyon, France, with
internship at Chez Phillippe under French Master Chef
its own history of culinary traditions.
Where the Mediterranean Merges With Memphis
F
OR ANDREW TICER AND MICHAEL
HUDMAN, the chefs/owners of Andrew
Mary Spinosa) lovingly prepare raviolis and meatballs
set us on this course.”
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And the course that they chose to travel was a
First and foremost, Andy and Michael consider
themselves Memphians. Growing up here, their families
After college, Andy and Michael moved to
repeatedly witnessed in their grandmothers growing
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(veal ragu antica, broccoli rapini, ricotta salata) and
Yet, Andy and Michael are not resting on
Scarpinocc (parsnips, taleggio, balsamic, brown butterm
their laurels. In 2012, the two childhood friends
walnut). The Entrees represent the scrumptious
enthusiastically expanded the dining options for
summit of the evening’s culinary expedition with such
their hometown citizenry when they opened Hog
exquisitely prepared and artfully plated choices as
& Hominy, a more casual atmosphere, but one with
Newman Farm Pork (ricotta gnudi, pink-eyed peas, pork
similar culinary standards, where the two chefs extend
belly sugo, black radish, gremolata),Veal Breast (celery
root, parsnips, turnips, carrots, spinach soubise, truffle) and
After returning to the United States, it would still
be several more years before all the study, hard work,
preparation, and persistence would merge into the
opening in October 2008 of Andrew Michael Italian
Kitchen —offering Memphians a fresh perspective
Michael. They were named among the country’s Best
on traditional Italian. With a menu comprised of
New Chefs for 2013 by the national publication, Food
dishes that represent their joint passion for culinary
& Wine, and in that same year also received James Beard
exploration and innovation, one is taken on a divine
Awards as Semi-Finalists /Best Chef: Southeast. And
dining experience where the techniques of Old
Andrew and Michael Italian Kitchen was named one of
World cooking are re-interpreted, and merged with
the 100 Places to Eat Now by Southern Living.
contemporary influences in masterful presentations
produced from an almost limitless imagination when
it comes to blending flavors and textures from many
diverse and delightful sources.
Halibut (chanterelle, morel, sugar snap peas, watercress,
the influence of family by merging Southern cooking
tantalizing options as Crudo (tuna, tomato, sorrel,
schmaltz, leek, Carolina gold rice). For those who wish
with Italian roots. In a period of just one year, Hog
muscadine, almond, yuzu), Risotto (scallops, Prosecco,
to cap off such a magical meal with something sweet,
& Hominy has received wide critical acclaim from
lemon conserva, egg yolk, truffle, sorrel) and Stracciatella
there are a variety of delectable dessert offerings
publications both local and national in scope, and its
(beets, garland chrysanthemums, peaches, mulberry,
including such treats as Cannoli, Marscopone Cheese
success has led to Andy and Michael’s first cookbook,
pistachio). There are at least a half dozen preparations
Cake, and Budino.
Collards & Carbonara.
For Starters, one is offered among others such
of inviting Pastas, including Maw Maw’s Ravioli (a
loving salute to their grandmothers), Gnocchi Sardi
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This fourteen-year commitment from dream to
realization has generated national acclaim for Andy and
Hog & Hominy is separately featured in a later
section of this book.
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W
hen we were considering what recipe to include here, we wanted to include food that spoke to the
soul of Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen and its connection to Memphis. What better way, we realized,
to pay homage to this city than with our favorite soul food—pasta. The recipe that follows is complex, but
anything worth doing will take some work, and we promise that the finished product is well worth the effort.
Orrichiette with Veal Ragu Antiqua and
Broccoli Rapini
In the restaurant, this dish was served with
gnocchi sardi, a semolina style dumpling.
Since most home cooks won’t have an
extruder, we recommend buying orrichiette,
the little ear pastas, made from semolina and
with a great bite to them, which you’ll want
with this smoky, rich sauce. The broccoli
rapini added at the end lightens up your pasta
and adds great crunch.
For the sauce
1/4
1/2
1/2
1/4
While accolades and national recognition are
rewarding, Andy and Michael don’t see their two
restaurants as solely business endeavors. Rather, they
see them as the places where they happily go live
their daily lives, the lives they are are creating for
their own families in the only place they want to be—
Memphis, a city with a deep loyalty to its traditions.
Andy and Michael gladly welcome the opportunity
to be part of a city that seeks to elevate, to be better,
to make something new, and to move forward for
its next generation.
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712 West Brookhaven Circle
Memphis, TN 38117
901-347-3569
www.andrewmichaelitaliankitchen.com
pound lardo, ground
pound guanciale, ground
pound ham, ground
pound bacon, diced
1 pound yellow onions, diced
1/2 pound celery, diced
1/2 tablespoon roasted garlic
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 bottle red wine
2 quarts crushed tomatoes
1 bunch basil
1 bay leaf
1 quart beef stock
1 glug of olive oil
5 pounds veal breast
Orrichiette
Broccoli rapini
Salt and pepper
Heat a large Dutch over over high heat. Add the
lardo, guanciale, ham and bacon and heat for 5 to
8 minutes or until all the fat renders out. Once the
meats have caramelized and browned, remove and
reserve them, leaving the fat in the Dutch oven.
Add the onions, celery and garlic to the Dutch oven.
Cook for 10 minutes or to a medium caramelization.
Once the caramelization is complete, position the
vegetables around the edges of the Dutch oven. Add
the tomato paste and cook for 5 minutes or until rustcolored. Mix the vegetables in and deglaze the pan
with red wine, cooking until the wine has completely
evaporated. Remove and reserve everything from
the Dutch oven. Add 1 glug of olive oil to the Dutch
oven and sear the veal breast until well caramelized.
Add the vegetables, crushed tomatoes, basil, bay leaf
and stock. Increase the heat to bring everything to a
boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to a low simmer
and simmer for 4 hours.
To serve, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil
and add the pasta. Cook until al dente. Over high
heat, add a small amount of olive oil to a heavybottomed pan. Add the broccoli rapini and season to
taste with salt and pepper. Sear the broccoli rapini
and add the sauce. Cook until the sauce is reduced.
Add the pasta and let it finish cooking in the sauce,
tossing until coated. Serve garnished with grated
ricotta salata.
Serves 8
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