Aveda Aromaology I: Essence of Aveda Leader Guide Introduction

Transcription

Aveda Aromaology I: Essence of Aveda
Leader Guide
Introduction:
Aveda Aromaology 1
Essence of Aveda
Welcome the participants to the class. Introduce yourself and your background. Have
the participants introduce themselves mentioning name, salon/spa, role (hairdresser,
spa therapist, owner, guest services, etc) their background in aromatherapy/
aromaology and any expectations they have for the class today. Cover any logistics with
food, restrooms, etc.
Review the Aveda Mission:
OUR MISSION AT AVEDA IS TO CARE
FOR THE WORLD WE LIVE IN FROM THE
PRODCUTS WE MAKE TO THE WAYS IN
WHICH WE GIVE BACK TO SOCIETY.
AT AVEDA WE STRIVE TO SET AN
EXAMPLE FOR ENVIRONMENTAL
LEADERSHIP AND RESPONSIBILITY
NOTJUST IN THE WORLD OF BEAUTY
BUT AROUND THE WORLD.
Aromaology is the heart of Aveda. It is one of the founding principles of Aveda and is
important part of our mission of caring for the world through making products with
organic sustainable ingredients
On the power point show a few images of keystones as well as cars. Have the group
look at the images and write down their thoughts when they see the images.
Have the group share their ideas: Look for beauty, form, emotions, etc.
In addition lead a discussion with the group about the function of keystones. Without the
keystone, the entire structure would fall apart. It is a weight bearing stone that serves
the function of stability in design. Often times when we see nice cars, we think of the
comfort and features of the car. But the car’s function is to get us from point A to B.
• Keystones and cars are not only
visually beautiful but they are
functional as well
• In the box, draw an “S” and then
enclose it within a circle
Image: On a flip chart, draw a tai chi or yin / yang symbol by drawing and s and when
you get to the bottom of the s continue drawing by making a circle immediately around
the s. Have the participants draw the symbol in the workbooks as you do this. This
symbol represents the duality of life and the natural flow from one aspect to another and
back again. The Aveda aromaology class is focused on bringing together the two major
qualities of essential oils: aroma and function.
• Aromaology I
brings together
the 2 major
aspects of
essential oils:
aroma and
function
Often times, when people think of aroma, they connect to the beauty of the smell. When
the aroma is an essential oil, it is also important to focus on the functionality of that oil
and what it can do for health and wellness.
The agenda of the course is as follows:
•
•
•
•
•
What is aromaology?
The definition of essential oils:
o Where they come from
o How we obtain them
How essential oils work:
o Electrically (olfaction)
o Physically
Aveda Functional aroma blends:
o The process of creating Aveda Functional Aroma Blends
o Properties of Aveda Blends (anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, elemental
nature)
o key oils within the blends and their key benefits
Using this information with guests
Introduction:
Using the power point: • What is aromatherapy?
• What is aromaology?
Ask the question: What is aromaology? What is aromatherapy?
How are they different? How are they similar?
As the group shares theirs insights, lead a discussion about aromaology and
aromatherapy looking for the following:
Aromaology means the study of aromas - aroma means aroma and -ology means study
of
Aromatherapy means therapy of aroma - aroma means aroma and therapy is therapy
Comment: This is correct from a etymology (word) point of view, but it is limited
Aromatherapy is the use of essential oils to help bring health and vitality. The term
“aromatherapy” is somewhat of a misnomer because the aroma to which aromatherapy
was meant to refer to the aroma of essential oils but it is often interpreted as any aroma,
either natural or synthetic.
• Traditionally,
aromatherapy is the
use of essential oils
for health and vitality
The word “Aromatherapy” was coined by a French chemist by the name of ReneMaurice Gattefosse in the 1930’s and was meant to describe the therapeutic use of
essential oils. During the 1920’s and 30’s the use of synthetic aromas was growing. In
fact, the first synthetic perfume was created in 1921. Does anyone know the name of
this perfume? It is still on the market today. Answer: Chanel # 5. Gattefosse coined the
term after an accident in his lab in 1910. As the story goes, while working in the lab, he
burned his hand. Impulsively, he stuck that hand in the nearest vat of liquid; The vat
happened to be the essential oil of lavender. Gattefosse noticed over the next few
moments and days how the burn’s effects of pain, scarring, and infection were
minimized by the lavender oil. He realized there was a lot more benefit to the essential
oils and he wrote a book titled Aromatherapie first published in 1937 called
Aromathérapie: Les Huiles essentielles hormones végétales which was translated
Gattefosse’s aromatherapy. From his experiments modern aromatherapy was born.
Jean Valnet, a contemporary of Gattefosse’s, worked with Aveda’s lab in the 1980’s,
also developed the therapeutic use of essential oils with much success during World
War II. Dr Valnet worked with the Aveda lab in the 1980’s.
• Aromaology is a
trademarked word of
Aveda to emphasize our
use of plant based
essential oils.
Aromaology is a trademark of the Aveda Corporation. Aveda originally used the term
“aromatherapy” but this word became a marketing tool for many companies in the
1980’s even though they were not using natural essential oils but rather synthetic
fragrances, which is not true aromatherapy. In order to distinguish us from the use of
synthetic aroma, Aveda created the term Aromaology, which is a trademarked term to
stress that we use only naturally derived aromas.
• Aromaology is:
a
You could say Aromaology is the Art and Science of Pure Flower and Plant Essences.
As essential oils are not the only natural aromas, we use this definition to include
all pure flower and plant essences, not just essential oils. So if Aromatherapy and
Aromaology focus mostly on the use of Essential Oils, we need to define Essential Oil.
Chapter 1: What is an Essential Oil? What is an essential oil?
Have the participants look in their workbooks at the words that make up the definition of
an essential oil. They should arrange those words into a sentence that defines essential
oils. The definition should include 3 parts: the technical aspects of what an essential oil
is, from where we get the oils, and how we get the oils.
• An essential oil is a volatile aromatic
organic compound derived from any
part of a plant through a process of
expression or distillation.
Essential oils are volatile aromatic organic compounds obtained from any part of plant
through a process of expression or distillation.
Now discuss each part of the definition:
• Volatile - the
molecules of the
essential oil are
floating in space
1. Technical aspects of the essential oil:
a. Volatile – means the molecules are not strongly attached but rather float in
the air. The reason you can smell an essential oil is because the
molecules float away and you inhale those molecules
• Aromatic essential oils have
an aroma
b. Aromatic – means they have a distinct aroma
• Organic means
essential oils
contain carbon
c. Organic – contains carbon. All the essential oil components are carbon
based. The chemical components of essential oils are mostly
monterpenes with a backbone of 10 carbon atom or sesquiterpenes with a
backbone of 15 carbon atoms. Please note that organic could mean grown
without the use of pesticides and herbicides and some essential oils (and
90% of Aveda’s) are organically grown but this is not the interpretation in
the definition.
-
• Compound essential oils
contain more
than one
chemical
NATURAL ROSEMARY:
(+)-LIMONENE (E)-BETA-OCIMENE (Z)-BETA-OCIMENE 1,8-CINEOLE 1-OCTEN-3-OL 19ALPHA-HYDROXYURSOLIC-ACID
2-BETA-HYDROXYOLEANOLIC-ACID
3,5,5TRIMETHYLHEXAN-1-OL 3-BETA-HYDROXYUREA-12,20(30)-DIEN-17-ON-ACID 3-HEXANONE
3-METHYL-BUTAN-1-OL 3-O-ACETYLOLEANOLIC-ACID 3-O-ACETYLURSOLIC-ACID 3OCTANOL 3-OCTANONE 4-HYDROXYBENZOYL-GLUCOSIDE 4-TERPINENYL-ACETATE 5HYDROXY-4',7-DIMETHOXYFLAVONE 6-METHOXY-GENKW ANIN 6-METHOXY-LUTEOLIN-7GLUCOSIDE 6-METHOXYLUTEOLIN 6-METHOXYLUTEOLIN-7-METHYL-ETHER 7-ETHOXYROSMANOL 7-METHOXY-ROSMANOL ACETIC-ACID ALLO-AROMADENDRENE ALPHAAMORPHENE Plant ALPHA-AMYRENONE ALPHA-AMYRIN ALPHA- ALPHA-FENCHENE
ALPHA-FENCHOL
ALPHA-FENCHYL-ACETATE
ALPHA-FENCHYL-ALCOHOL
ALPHAHUMULENE ALPHA-HYDROXYHYDROCAFFEIC-ACID ALPHA-MUUROLENE ALPHA- ALPHAPINENE ALPHA-SELINENE ALPHA-TERPINENE ALPHA-TERPINENYL-ACETATE ALPHATERPINEOL ALPHA-THUJENE ALPHA- APIGENIN APIGENIN-7- AR-CURCUMENE
ASCORBIC- BENZYL-ALCOHOL BETA-AMYRENONE BETA-AMYRIN BETA-CAROTENE BETACARYOPHYLLENE BETA-ELEMENE BETA-FENCHENE Plant: BETA-GURJUNENE BETAOCIMENE BETA-PHELLANDRENE BETA-PINENE Plant BETA-SITOSTEROL BETA-THUJONE
BETULIN BETULINIC-ACID BORNEOL BORNYL-ACETATE BORNYLENE Plant: BORON
BUTAN-2-OL CADALENE CAFFEIC- CALACORENE CALAMENENE CALCIUM CAMPHENE
CAMPHOR CAPROIC-ACID CARBOHYDRATES CARNOSIC- CARVACROL CARVONE
CARYOPHYLLENE CARYOPHYLLENE-OXIDE CHLOROGENIC-ACID CINEOLE CIRSILION
CIRSIMARITRIN CIS-ALPHA-BISABOLENE CIS-BETA-TERPINEOL CIS-MYRTENOL CISPINAN-3-ONE CIS-SABINENE-HYDRATE COPPER CUBENENE DECA-TRANS-2,TRANS-4DIEN-1-AL DELTA-3-CARENE DELTA-4-CARENE DELTA-CADINENE DELTA-TERPINEOL
DIMETHYL-STYRENE DIOSMETIN DIOSMIN DIPENTENE ELEMOL EPI-ALPHA-AMYRIN
EPI-ALPHA-BISABOLOL EPIROSMANOL ERIODICTIOL ETHANOL EUGENOL-METHYLETHER FAT FENCHONE FIBER GAMMA-CADINENE GAMMA-EUDESMOL GAMMAMUUROLENE GAMMA-MUUROLOL GAMMA-TERPINENE GENKWANIN GENKWANIN-4'METHYL-ETHER GERANIOL GLYCOLIC-ACID HEPT-TRANS-2-EN-1-AL HEPTAN-1-AL
HEPTAN-2-OL HEPTANOIC-ACID HESPERIDIN HEXAN-1-AL HEXAN-1-OL HISPIDULIN
HISPIDULOSIDE HUMULENE-EPOXIDE-I HUMULENE-EPOXIDE-II HYDROXY-BENZOIC-ACID4-BETA-D-GLUCOSIDE IRON ISOBORNEOL ISOBORNYL-ACETATE ISOBUTYL-ACETATE
ISOPINOCARVEOL ISOPULEGOL ISOROSMANOL ISOROSMARICINE LABIATIC-ACID
LAVANDULOL LEDENE LIMONENE LINALOL LINALOL-ACETATE LONGIFOLENE LUTEOLIN
LUTEOLIN-3'-O-(3''-O-ACETYL)-BETA-D-GLUCURONIDE
LUTEOLIN-3'-O-(4''-O-ACETYL)BETA-D-GLUCURONIDE LUTEOLIN-3'-O-BETA-D-GLUCURONIDE LUTEOLIN-7-GLUCOSIDE
MAGNESIUM MANGANESE MESITY-ALCOHOL METHYL-ETHER METHYL-EUGENOL
METHYL-HEPTENONE MONOMETHYL-ALKANE MYRCENE MYRTENOL N-METHYLROSMARICINE NEO-CHLOROGENIC-ACID NEO-THUJOL NEPETIN NEPETRIN NIACIN
d. Compound – contains more than chemical. Essential oils are a
combination of many chemicals. The chemicals are plant based as
opposed to petroleum based, and the complexity of essential oils is what
gives them their power. Synthetic copies of essential oils often use 3 or 4
chemicals that dominate the makeup of the essential oil but the actual oil
can have up to 300 components. That complexity is why essential oils do
what they do.
Show a gas chromatograph of an essential oil. The tall peaks represent components of
the essential oils and chemist can identify this chemical and use it in a synthetic version.
However, they cannot copy all of the tiny peaks so even though they can recreate a
version, it cannot match the superiority of the aroma or therapeutic properties of the
actual oil.
2. Obtained from any part of a plant.
a. Essential oils can come from any part of a plant – the roots, leaves,
flowers, fruit, bark, grass, etc. However, each essential oil comes from a
distinct part of the plant. Rose Oil comes from the flowers but not the
leaves. Patchouli comes from the leaves of the plant. Vetiver comes from
the root of a plant but not the grass, lemongrass comes from the grass but
not the roots. Have the participants fill in the plant name next to the image
Essential Oils can be obtained from any
part of a plant:
• Flowers – Rose and Ylang Ylang
• Fruit - Orange
• Resin - Frankincense
• Wood – Sandalwood
Show a video of frankincense
Frankincense is a resin
• Leaves – patchouli
• Roots – vetiver
• Grass - Palmarosa
b. Occasionally one plant will yield more than one essential oil. The bitter
orange tree (Citrus aurantium) produces 3 distinct essential oils Pass the
aroma of each around on a blotter as you discuss each aroma: Have the
participants write in the names of the oils beside the plant part. If you
express the fruit you get bitter orange oil, distilling the leaves produced
petitgrain oil, and distilling the flowers yields Neroli (or orange flower oil
one of the rare oils not named after the plant but a person the Italian
Princess of Neroli.
• The bitter orange tree (Citrus
aurantium) yields 3 essential oils
• Fruit – bitter orange oil
• Leaves – petitgrain
• Flowers - Neroli
Show a video of neroli
Neroli comes from the bitter orange tree
• Essential Oils are obtained through
either expression or distillation
3. From a process of expression or distillation: True essential oils are obtained by
only 2 methods:
a. Expression is the pressing of the plant material to extract the essential oil.
This technique only works with citrus oils as the essential oils is contained
in easily ruptured sacs within the rind of the fruit.
Show the animated slide
i. Pass around a few oranges. Have the group take a piece of rind.
Hold it up in the air and squeeze and see if they can see the oil
spray out.
ii. Sometimes, the oil can be a byproduct of the juice industry as is the
case with oranges. When extracting juice, juicers do not cut the
oranges in half but rather the oranges go on a conveyer belt that
sends the oranges through two giant rollers with tiny teeth all
around. The oranges including the rind get crushed and all the
liquid goes into a container. The juice as well as the essential oil
are extracted and since oil and water do not mix, the oil floats to the
top and the juice sinks to the bottom and the two can be separated.
Show the animated slide of this process.
iii. In a drought year in Florida, is it a good essential oil year or bad? It
is good, as the oil is located in the rind. The purpose of the rind is to
protect the water inside so during a drought, the rind gets thicker. It
is a good oil year but a bad juice year. The opposite can occur
during a rainy season when the rind is thin but the fruit is full of
juice. Notice the size of the rind next time you buy oranges.
Sometimes the rind is thick and easily to peer (less rain) and
sometimes it is thin and hard to peel (more rain)
b. Distillation: What is distilled water? Water (liquid) than has been boiled
and turned into steam (vapor), then that steam (vapor) is re-cooled and
turned into water (liquid). It is a very simple process. The Persian chemist
and philosopher Avicenna first wrote about the steam distillation process
for alcohol and essential oils. Since essential oils have a low boiling point,
passing steam through the plant material allows for the oil to be vaporized
and lifted out of the plant material with the steam. This vapor which
contains the water and the essential oil can be cooled again. As the vapor
changes to a liquid state, the essential oil will float to the top of the water
and can be drained off the top.
Show the animated slide of this process.
c. For any hydrophilic (water loving) oils, such as rose, some oil will remain
in the water and the water from the distillation can also be used as a
hydrosol.
How many of the 12 Aveda Singular
Notes are by definition essential oils?
d. Aveda has 12 singular notes: How many of these products are by
definition essential oils? Look for all of them: incorrect. None of them:
incorrect. Even though the singular notes are diluted, most of them are still
essential oils. The answer is 10. The 2 that are not essential oils are Rose
absolute and vanilla absolute. Absolutes are volatile aromatic compounds
derived from a part of a plant but they are obtained through solvent
extraction. Of the 12 singular notes, 2 are expressed (bergamot and
tangerine) 8 are distilled, and 2 are solvent extracted.
• The absolutes of
Vanilla and Rose are
volatile aromatic
organic compounds
obtained from any part
of plant but they are
obtained through
solvent extraction
4. Solvent Extraction: some flowers and other plants cannot withstand the
distillation process but will yield a plant or flower essence through other methods.
2
Solvent extraction - vanilla
Evaporate
solvent
Solvent
Solvent
Vanilla
soluble
Solvent
Vanilla
soluble
insoluble
Add alcohol
Vanilla
aroma &
pigment
Insoluble wax
- filter off
Evaporate
alcohol
Vanilla
aroma &
pigment
Contains
aroma, plant
pigment,
waxes (do
not want)
Vanilla concrete
Contains
aroma and
plant
pigment
Vanilla
To play video
absolute
click image
a. One method is solvent extraction. This involves soaking the plant material
in a solvent (usually hexane, a petrochemical) which separates the
aromatic compounds, color and waxes from the plant. The solvent
evaporates off and leaves what is called a concrete, which is a colored
wax with aroma. As it is common to use the plant essence is liquid form,
the concrete can be washed with alcohol which dissolves the wax and
leaves an aromatic liquid which usually have some color as well. A solvent
extracted product is called an absolute
b. Some flowers like jasmine cannot be distilled while others like rose can be
distilled or solvent extracted. Pass around blotters with Rose Oil and Rose
absolute. Which one smells more like roses? The absolute.
Which of the extraction
processes yields an essential
that smells most like its
respective plants?
Solvent
extraction
c. Of the 3 extraction methods discussed thus far, which do you think yields
an oil that smells most like the plant? Expression as this is simply pressing
the oil from the rind. Pass around lime oil distilled. Have the participants
notice how it smells just like limes. Solvent extraction is next. Many of the
absolutes are used in the perfume industry as they smell more like the
plant. Distillation is the process that creates a slight change in the aroma
from the plant material. Pass around distilled lime oil. What in distillation
would change the aroma? The answer is the heat. Oils are volatile, so it is
natural to have a shift in the aroma. Notice how the lime oil changes when
it is distilled vs. expressed
d. At Aveda we minimize the use of absolutes. We are working on using a
petrochemical free way of extracting some of these essences. We are
making progress but creating a new extraction process that is also
economical takes time
• Essential oils vary in cost
based on yield
• How many roses does it
take to obtain 1 drop of
rose oil?
5. Each essential oil has different costs. Some oils are quite expensive and some
are relatively cheap. The major factor in price is the yield of the essential oil.
Ask the question: “How many roses do it take to obtain one drop of rose oil?”
Expensive oils like Rose require 30 roses to create just one drop and are thus
quite expensive. 5 ml of Rose Pure Essence costs $140. Other essential oils
have a lot of oil within the plant material and cost less. 5ml of Grapefruit Pure
Essence costs $12.
• Based on the information you have learned
thus far, create a script so that you may
introduce Aveda aromaology to your
guests.
Have the participants write a script on how the would introduce aromaology to
their guests.
Chapter 2: How Essential Oils Work
• How do essential oils work?
How do essential oils work?
Look for: through the sense of smell, applying to the skin, chemically.
• Essential Oils work in 2
ways:
– Electrically through smell
– Physically through
application
Essential oils work in 2 major ways: electrically and physically
We will begin our discussion with the electrical effect or the olfactory benefits:
Olfaction:
• Think of your favorite aroma and
describe it
Close your eyes and think of your favorite aroma in the world. As you are “smelling” the
aroma, describe the aroma. Write down whatever words come to you.
Have the participants share their descriptive words:
Look for 2 types of words which is what most people will use: Words that describe how
the aroma makes them feel (calm, relaxed, joyful, soothing) or words that describe what
the aroma reminds them of (Christmas, Grandma, dinner, a walk in the woods)
We describe aromas by:
• How they make us feel
• Of what they remind us
Have the participants write in their book: how they make us feel and of what they remind
us
In A Natural History of the Senses, author Diane Ackerman notes that it is almost
impossible to explain how something smells to someone who hasn't smelled it. There
are names for all the pastels in a hue, she writes—but none for the tones and tints of a
smell. Thus we rely on these other types of words to describe the aroma: how they
make us feel or what they remind us of.
How the sense of smell works:
How does the olfactory sense work?
Ask for 9 volunteers: each person will represent a different part of the olfactory system
and an aroma molecule
1. Aroma molecule
2. Nose
3. Olfactory epithelium
4. Olfactory bulb
5. Thalamus
6. Olfactory cortex
7. Limbic system
8. Hypothalamus
9. Rhinencephalon
Place the participants in order after they draw the identification cards. They should hold
up the cards throughout the exercise and read the appropriate information from the
book when the aroma molecule gets to them.
1. An aroma molecule is floating in the air
2. The nose directs the molecules to the olfactory epithelium
3. While most of us think we smell we our nose, we actually smell with our olfactory
epithelium, which has 10-40 million olfactory receptors. These receptors are
neurons with dozens of ciliate tips, which are stimulated when the aroma
molecules pass through the nasal passage. It is thought that the neurons convert
the chemical signals into electrical signals
4. This electrical signal is sent to the olfactory bulb, which is a part of the brain. The
olfactory bulb sends the signal directly to the olfactory cortex.
5. This signal bypasses the thalamus which makes smell unique among 5 senses
as the other 4 pass through the thalamus which controls motor functions
6. The olfactory cortex can send the signal into 2 directions: the limbic system or
the hypothalamus
7. The limbic system is the emotional and memory center of the brain. This
explains why we describe aromas by how they make us feel or of what they
remind us. The limbic system response is often psychological.
8. The hypothalamus controls homeostasis and affects autonomic functions such
as blood pressure, digestion, and stress response. The hypothalamus response
is thus physiological.
9. The collective areas that govern olfaction are termed the rhinencephalon.
Additional information that you can share:
While it is said that we smell with our noses we actually smell with the olfactory
epithelium, a patch of greenish yellow tissue several square centimeters which has
about 10 to 40 million olfactory receptors situated deep in the nasal cavity. When you
inhale an aroma, which is simply a molecule floating in the air, the nose directs the
molecules to the olfactory epithelium. The aroma molecules dissolve in the epithelium
stimulating the olfactory receptors which are neurons with a dozens of ciliate tips that
extend into a patch of mucus lining the nasal cavity. These neurons do not live long:
after one to two months, they die and are replaced by a new receptor grown from a
stem cell. The way that the ciliate tips respond to odorants is not totally clear, although
the most pursued hypothesis is that chemical receptors respond directly to particular
odorant molecules converting chemical signals into electrical signals. The olfactory
neurons pass through the skull and congregate in the olfactory bulb, part of the brain.
They then pass directly to the olfactory cortex, without passing through the thalamus, as
the other senses do. This makes smell anatomically unique among the senses, in its
connection to the cortex. The collective name of the olfactory areas is the
rhinencephalon. The rhinencephalon has connections to the limbic system which is the
emotional and memory center of the brain. The rhinencephalon is also connected to the
various autonomic centers including the hypothalamus and habenular nucleus.
What does this mean to you?
The sense of smell works:
• Psychologically (limbic system)
• Physiologically (hypothalamus)
The sense of smell works 2 ways: psychologically and physiologically.
• The limbic system
is the emotional
and memory center
of the brain
The psychological connection occurs through the limbic system which is the emotional
and memory center of the brain. We describe aromas they way we do because of this
connection to the limbic system. This aroma connection to memory and emotion can be
very powerful and happens in an instant. When you smell a familiar aroma, you can
instantly be mentally transported back to that moment in time when you encountered
the aroma.
• A positive connection to an aroma can
influence the effects
• Aromas can create new memories
Tell a story when this happened to you.
How you feel about that experience influences how you respond to that aroma. If you
have a pleasant or positive association with that memory, it can bring up positive
emotions when you smell the aroma again. If you had a negative response, a negative
reaction can arise. Let’s say that one of your guests spent a lot of time at her
grandmother’s house growing up. Her grandmother grew many flowers in her large
gardens. She particularly liked lavender and often times had fresh cut lavender in the
house. However, grandma was very particular about her things and did not like her stuff
to be touched or moved thus your guest was often reprimanded when she visited her
grandmother as toddlers have a tendency to touch and break things. This guest might
associate the aroma of lavender with getting yelled at. She probably will not enjoy the
aroma of lavender.
• The Aroma Sensory Journey is a
process where the guest chooses
their aroma
This is why we focus on Aroma Sensory Journeys. We want our guest to connect to an
aroma in a positive way.
A study on hyperactive children showed
measureable results with preferred essential
oils (sensory journey)
A study was done where researchers were trying to validate the use of essential oils to
help calm hyperactive children. When the study was started, they chose lavender as
this is known to be a “calming” essential oil. They taught a group of hyperactive kids
how to use the aroma of lavender throughout the day. When they got the initial results,
they did not look good. Most kids were not helped by lavender at all. When talking to a
fellow researcher, this researcher had done a aroma preference study with kids and
lavender scored very poorly with kids. Most kids did not like it. With this information,
they decided to use a variety of essential oils, letting the kids choose their favorite.
Once they kids were using a preferred aroma, the researchers results improved
dramatically.
Not only do aromas affect us psychologically through the sense of smell, but they also
affect us physiologically. It is a unpleasant example but it gets the point across. If
someone were to vomit in this room, how would you react? If you smelled the vomit, you
in turn would vomit? Why? Did you need to vomit? No. Your body smelled the vomit,
had a visceral memory and your physical body relived that experience. It all happened
through the powerful sense of smell.
• The sense of smell
works physiologically
through the
hypothalamus which
governs homeostasis
The physiological response occurs because the rhinencephalon has connections to
hypothalamus and habenular nucleus. The tiny hypothalamus serves as upper
management of the body’s health maintenance regulating the body’s homeostasis, or
stable state of equilibrium. The hypothalamus also generates behaviors involved in
eating, drinking, general arousal, rage, aggression, embarrassment, escape from
danger, pleasure and copulation. It does an amazing number of housekeeping chores
for such a small piece of tissue. Its lateral and anterior parts seem to support activation
of the parasympathetic nervous system: drop in blood pressure; slowing of pulse; and
regulation of digestion, defecation, assimilation, and reproduction in such a way as to
contribute on the whole to rest and recovery. The medial and posterior hypothalamus
regulates activation: acceleration of pulse and breathing rates, high blood pressure,
arousal, fear and anger. Just by smelling carefully selected blended oils,
Aromatherapists believe that the hypothalamus and all it controls will produce positive
effects, restoring homeostasis in the body.
Hypothalamus functions:
1. Autonomic control
2. Temperature regulation
3. Thirst and control of body water
4. Appetite control
5. Endocrine control
6. Emotional reactions
7. Sleep and wakefulness
8. Stress response
Aroma Research
Smelling lavender and rosemary increases
free radical scavenging activity and
decreases cortisol in saliva
Toshiko Atsumi and Keiichi Tonosakia, Dept of Oral Physiology, Meikai University, School of Dentistry
1-1 Keyaki-dai Sakado-shi, Saitama, 350-0283 Japan
Accepted 27 Dec 2005 available online 7 Feb 2007
To further show how the sense of smell can affect hormone production and
physiological responses, a study in Japan showed that simply smelling lavender and
rosemary increases free radical scavenging activity and decreases cortisol level in
saliva (Toshiko Atsumi and Keiichi Tonosakia, Department of Oral Physiology, Meikai
University, School of Dentistry, 1-1, Keyaki-dai, Sakado-shi, Saitama 350-0283, Japan)
Cortisol is the stress hormone so simply smelling an aroma can influence recovery from
stress.
Essential oils work
physically through
topical application
and through the
lungs
Essential oils also work physically through topical application and through the lungs
-
Essential oils
contain
hundreds of
individual
chemicals which
are lipid (fat)
soluble
NATURAL ROSEMARY:
(+)-LIMONENE (E)-BETA-OCIMENE (Z)-BETA-OCIMENE 1,8-CINEOLE 1-OCTEN-3-OL 19ALPHA-HYDROXYURSOLIC-ACID
2-BETA-HYDROXYOLEANOLIC-ACID
3,5,5TRIMETHYLHEXAN-1-OL 3-BETA-HYDROXYUREA-12,20(30)-DIEN-17-ON-ACID 3-HEXANONE
3-METHYL-BUTAN-1-OL 3-O-ACETYLOLEANOLIC-ACID 3-O-ACETYLURSOLIC-ACID 3OCTANOL 3-OCTANONE 4-HYDROXYBENZOYL-GLUCOSIDE 4-TERPINENYL-ACETATE 5HYDROXY-4',7-DIMETHOXYFLAVONE 6-METHOXY-GENKWANIN 6-METHOXY-LUTEOLIN-7GLUCOSIDE 6-METHOXYLUTEOLIN 6-METHOXYLUTEOLIN-7-METHYL-ETHER 7-ETHOXYROSMANOL 7-METHOXY-ROSMANOL ACETIC-ACID ALLO-AROMADENDRENE ALPHAAMORPHENE Plant ALPHA-AMYRENONE ALPHA-AMYRIN ALPHA- ALPHA-FENCHENE
ALPHA-FENCHOL
ALPHA-FENCHYL-ACETATE
ALPHA-FENCHYL-ALCOHOL
ALPHAHUMULENE ALPHA-HYDROXYHYDROCAFFEIC-ACID ALPHA-MUUROLENE ALPHA- ALPHAPINENE ALPHA-SELINENE ALPHA-TERPINENE ALPHA-TERPINENYL-ACETATE ALPHATERPINEOL ALPHA-THUJENE ALPHA- APIGENIN APIGENIN-7- AR-CURCUMENE
ASCORBIC- BENZYL-ALCOHOL BETA-AMYRENONE BETA-AMYRIN BETA-CAROTENE BETACARYOPHYLLENE BETA-ELEMENE BETA-FENCHENE Plant: BETA-GURJUNENE BETAOCIMENE BETA-PHELLANDRENE BETA-PINENE Plant BETA-SITOSTEROL BETA-THUJONE
BETULIN BETULINIC-ACID BORNEOL BORNYL-ACETATE BORNYLENE Plant: BORON
BUTAN-2-OL CADALENE CAFFEIC- CALACORENE CALAMENENE CALCIUM CAMPHENE
CAMPHOR CAPROIC-ACID CARBOHYDRATES CARNOSIC- CARVACROL CARVONE
CARYOPHYLLENE CARYOPHYLLENE-OXIDE CHLOROGENIC-ACID CINEOLE CIRSILION
CIRSIMARITRIN CIS-ALPHA-BISABOLENE CIS-BETA-TERPINEOL CIS-MYRTENOL CISPINAN-3-ONE CIS-SABINENE-HYDRATE COPPER CUBENENE DECA-TRANS-2,TRANS-4DIEN-1-AL DELTA-3-CARENE DELTA-4-CARENE DELTA-CADINENE DELTA-TERPINEOL
DIMETHYL-STYRENE DIOSMETIN DIOSMIN DIPENTENE ELEMOL EPI-ALPHA-AMYRIN
EPI-ALPHA-BISABOLOL EPIROSMANOL ERIODICTIOL ETHANOL EUGENOL-METHYLETHER FAT FENCHONE FIBER GAMMA-CADINENE GAMMA-EUDESMOL GAMMAMUUROLENE GAMMA-MUUROLOL GAMMA-TERPINENE GENKWANIN GENKWANIN-4'METHYL-ETHER GERANIOL GLYCOLIC-ACID HEPT-TRANS-2-EN-1-AL HEPTAN-1-AL
HEPTAN-2-OL HEPTANOIC-ACID HESPERIDIN HEXAN-1-AL HEXAN-1-OL HISPIDULIN
HISPIDULOSIDE HUMULENE-EPOXIDE-I HUMULENE-EPOXIDE-II HYDROXY-BENZOIC-ACID4-BETA-D-GLUCOSIDE IRON ISOBORNEOL ISOBORNYL-ACETATE ISOBUTYL-ACETATE
ISOPINOCARVEOL ISOPULEGOL ISOROSMANOL ISOROSMARICINE LABIATIC-ACID
LAVANDULOL LEDENE LIMONENE LINALOL LINALOL-ACETATE LONGIFOLENE LUTEOLIN
LUTEOLIN-3'-O-(3''-O-ACETYL)-BETA-D-GLUCURONIDE
LUTEOLIN-3'-O-(4''-O-ACETYL)BETA-D-GLUCURONIDE LUTEOLIN-3'-O-BETA-D-GLUCURONIDE LUTEOLIN-7-GLUCOSIDE
MAGNESIUM MANGANESE MESITY-ALCOHOL METHYL-ETHER METHYL-EUGENOL
METHYL-HEPTENONE MONOMETHYL-ALKANE MYRCENE MYRTENOL N-METHYLROSMARICINE NEO-CHLOROGENIC-ACID NEO-THUJOL NEPETIN NEPETRIN NIACIN
The chemical constituents can have an
effect on:
•
•
•
•
Epithelial tissue
Connective tissue
Nerve tissue
Muscle tissue
Essential oils are made up of hundreds of individual chemicals (called constituents)
each with their own molecular identity that alone, or in combination with others elicit
direct biochemical effects on cells that are the basic building blocks of the human body
forming epithelial tissue, connective tissue, nerve tissue and muscle tissue.
Essential oil constituents are lipophilic meaning they bind with oils (fats) allowing them
to bind or penetrate tissues reaching the cellular level.
Applying essential oils to the skin can affect
the body’s cells as well as enter the
bloodstream to create a systemic effect
Aromatherapists believe that by applying essential oils to the skin allow their combined
chemical constituents to positively affect the body’s cells. Owing to their fat solubility,
essential oils will literally soak through the epithelial tissue (oil rich skin) and be
transported around by the blood having systematic responses on multiple tissues be
they organ or muscle.
For example:
Clove Bud oil is a well known dental
anesthetic due to the effects of eugenol,
one of its constituents:
For example, Clove bud oils major constituent eugenol inhibits voltage-gated sodium
and calcium channels in nerve endings thereby contributing to anesthesia. Clove bud oil
is well known as being a dental anesthetic (pain killer).
• Inhaled essential oils can enter the
body through the alveoli, the lung gas
transfer units
As mentioned essential oils can have an effect on the hypothalamus via the olfactory
cortex but inhaled essential oils also enter body’s tissues via the alveoli, the lung gas
transfer units. Once again the essential oil constituents pass into the blood stream they
are whisked away to different parts of the body.
Smelling pure essential oils therefore have two bodily actions: Electrical, via neurons in
the brain and physical via biochemical actions on tissue cells via the lungs. The third
Aromatherapy mechanism of action is direct application of essential oils to tissues. This
is often achieved through topical application from massage oils or cosmetic creams but
can also come from ingestion or suppositories.
• Based on the information you have learned
thus far, create a script so that you may
introduce Aveda aromaology to your
guests.
Chapter 3: Aveda Functional Aroma Blends
Aveda Functional Aromas
What is a functional
aroma?
The Heritage of Aveda is aroma. When you ask our consumers about what makes
Aveda unique, aroma is the number 1 answer.
Essential oil aroma blends at Aveda
focus on:
• Purefumery
• Functionality
Aveda products use the power of essential oils though functional aroma blends. This
essentially means we create our aromas to not only smell good (purefume) but to act as
a raw ingredient within the finished product.
When we create aroma blends at Aveda, we have 2 goals in mind: the purefume aspect
of the blend and the functionality of the blend.
Let’s first focus on the perfumery aspect:
• Purefumery relates to smell
• It is an art that affects the senses,
emotions, and the intellect.
• A beautiful perfume has instant
gratification and appeal
Perfuming is a word that is derivates from the Latin word "parfumare" meaning "through
smoke". Ancient cultures such as the Egyptians tried to communicate to their gods via
beautifully aromatic smoke wafting skyward. Perfume really relates to smell, what the
nose detects as the odors fly toward the heavens.
Perfuming is an art that can be described as the product or process of deliberately
arranging items in a way that influences and affects the senses, emotions and intellect.
Whenever an perfumer or artist begins to truly create they focus on how their carefully
chosen mixture of aromatic substances will move people, targeting emotions and
intellect. More often than not a beautiful perfume is simply one that has instant
gratification and appeal, a pleasant smell.
The target of a
purefumer is the
heart and mind,
not just the nose
Truly great perfumes delve deeper into people firing neurons into thinking deeper,
feeling deeper. This is art, this is where a perfumer wants to lead you. The real target
for a perfumer is not the nose but the heart and mind.
Perfuming at Aveda means that the aromatic materials at hand are pure essential oils
coerced out of their originating plants and captured in their entirety. Essential oils
represent a collection of chemicals that are molecular testimony to millions of years of
evolutionary trials, tribulations, attractions and success not only to the plant to the
diverse web of life that they evolved with. Man has an evolved affinity with plants and
their chemicals. Some chemicals can poison but some can cure just as some plant
chemicals are odiferous as some are not. Sorting chemicals that heal from harm is done
by specialized pharmacognasists and toxicologists. Aromatherapists use the only the
aromatic healing chemicals in the form of essential oils. Perfumers and aromatherapists
use the same materials but how does the pursuit of art and health happen at once?
• Functionality targets a specific action
on the skin, nails, hair, or body
• Research helps determine which
essential oils are best for the job
One way is to systematically approach formulation. At Aveda we look specifically how to
heal the body (skin, hair, nails) meaning we target an action to produce a response then
set about to find the best plants to do the job.
1. Aveda uses function first to create a
product targeting a specific action
2. We search for the best plants to do
the job
3. A list of essential oils is created
4. The purefumers work on the art,
targeting the end consumers heart
and mind
5. The blend is scientifically tested
This is known as ‘function first’ and occurs for odiferous and non odiferous plants.
Odiferous plants that yield essential oils are sorted first by looking in-depth at their
chemical makeup and searching for what is known about the effects those chemicals
have on the body. Searches include published peer reviewed data, our own studies and
traditional information that has been handed down from generation to generation. A
functional short list of essential oils is collated and discussed with the perfumers (who
are often part of the search team). The perfumers then start to work on their art,
deliberating arranging the list materials in pursuit of the end users heart and mind. Once
the aroma is constructed it is scientifically tested. Tests include physical tests such as
anti oxidant tests or emotional tests such as panel testing when people are questioned
on how a smell makes them feel. Aveda aromas are constructed through the art and
science of pure plant products.
For the purefume aspect of the blend, we have our chief purefumer Koichi Shiozawa.
Koichi trained in the major purefume houses in France where many of the world’s
perfumes are created. Perfumery is a very complex art. Modern perfumes often contain
hundreds of ingredients as they utilize the full array of around 10000 aromatic products
whether naturally or synthetically derived. When Koichi first arrived at Aveda, he went
from having 10000 ingredients to around 300. Now that we work with 90% organic
essential oils, we only have around 115 oils available for blending. But because of his
background, koichi can take 10 or 20 and up to 50 oils and create a beautiful aroma.
This is quite a skill. Think about mixing all 12 singular notes together. Most of us would
create an unpleasant blend if we tried this. Koichi, with his refined smelling skills is able
to create rather complex essential oils blends. This is part of what makes Aveda
unique? Have you ever had someone say to you, “You smell like Aveda” Why is that? It
is not just natural as other companies also use essential oils. It is the complexity of the
essential oil blends. Many companies that blend essential oils keep the blends simple. 3
or 4 maybe up to 10 blends. At Aveda, we can create more complex blends because of
our purefumer.
For functionality, we have consultants and in house experts to help create blends. When
we need an aroma, we first determine what function the product needs such as antiacne, anti-inflammatory, or an ayurvedic specialty blend. Our team then researches the
essential oils that have these properties. Once they have listed have the potential
ingredients, Koichi works with these oils to create the purefume. Cindy Angerhofer
conducts clinical testing with the final blend to confirm the functionality.
Give a brief overview of The Aveda team from the following information: • Who is the Aveda team?
Ko-ichi Shiozawa
is Aveda’s master
natural purefumer
KO-ICHI SHIOZAWA:Master Natural Perfumer and Director of Aveda’s Botanical
Aroma Lab
Ko-ichi Shiozawa joined Aveda in 1990 as Aveda’s Chief Perfumer and Director of the
Botanical Aroma Lab. As such, he is faced with the rewarding challenge of creating
transforming flower-and plant-derived aromas, derived from sustainably sourced
essential oils, absolutes and organic ingredients wherever possible, for Aveda’s hair
care, skin care, body care, Pure-Fume™ and makeup products. In his search for the
finest essential oils and plants that are sustainably sourced, Mr. Shiozawa continues to
build partnerships with producers, suppliers and farmers worldwide. Mr. Shiozawa
travels around the world to keep an active and close relationship with each of these
partners. Especially since the beginning of 2001, he has been concentrating his efforts
and creative skill on development of a new genre of natural aromas: all organic aromas.
For 15 years prior to Aveda, Mr. Shiozawa nurtured his craft working for three major
international fragrance houses in the U.S. including Takasago, Givaudan and Dragoco.
In April 2009, Mr. Shiozawa was named as Master Natural Perfumer.
Mr. Shiozawa is versed in Italian and fluent in Japanese, English and French—which
landed him a scholarship to the Sorbonne University in Paris. Mr. Shiozawa was trained
extensively for five years from the late 1960’s to become a perfumer by renowned
French perfumers at a major perfume company in Grasse, —the birthplace of the
modern perfumery in France.
Cindy K.
Angerhofer, Ph.D.
is the Executive
Director of
Botanical Research
for Aveda
Cindy K. Angerhofer, Ph.D. -Executive Director of Botanical Research for Aveda
As Director of Botanical Research for Aveda, Cindy and her team explore the chemistry
and biology of botanical ingredients in an effort to create high performance plant-based
products. With more than 25 years of experience, Cindy has used her expertise in
pharmacognosy and plant-based science to help develop innovative botanical
cosmetics and dietary supplements. Cindy has helped establish leading research
programs that explore the science of medicinal herbs and the quality of botanical
extracts.
Before joining Aveda, Cindy received a B.A. in Chemistry from Gustavus Adolphus
College and a Ph.D. in Pharmacognosy from the University of Minnesota. She taught
courses in the medicinal and biological chemistry of natural substances for graduate
and professional students at the University of Illinois at Chicago College of Pharmacy.
While at UIC, she established a bioassay screening program for antimalarial natural
products and received funding from NIH (NIAID) and WHO in support of this work which
led to the identification of many antimalarial compounds. She directed Research and
Product Development for Tom’s of Maine, Inc. for five years and has consulted for nonprofit and for-profit organizations in the natural products industry. Cindy has designed
and delivered introductory, science-based curricula on medicinal herbs for pharmacists
and other health care professionals as well as seminars for consumer and trade
audiences. She currently serves on the Advisory Board for the American Botanical
Council and the Board of the American Herbal Products Association. She frequently
reviews manuscripts for several scientific journals in natural products and has authored
more than 40 peer-reviewed publications.
Cindy loves to sing, is an avid birdwatcher, and enjoys biking to work (except in winter!).
Guy Vincent is an
Aveda Purefumer
GUY VINCENT- Perfumer
A self-taught perfumer with a fervent passion for crafting unusually beautiful and
complex aromas, Guy Vincent is one of the few remaining in-house perfumers in the
beauty industry. Born in Australia, Guy has traveled the world extensively, working and
visiting raw material manufacturing and sourcing locations on six continents—all
experiences which have helped to broaden his natural perfumery and essential oil
knowledge. Guy’s complex skill set includes: perfuming, cosmetic chemistry,
complementary medicine practice and technical knowledge of the personal care
industry.
Guy joined Aveda in 2010 as a natural perfumer under the mentorship of Aveda Master
Perfumer Ko-Ichi Shiozawa. Since coming to Aveda Guy has worked tirelessly,
amalgamating the world’s finest essential oils derived from organic, sustainably sourced
plants and flowers to compliment high-performing, naturally-derived personal care
products. Working with and traveling to visit essential oil producers, suppliers and
farmers around the world nicely compliment Guy’s enthusiasm for creativity and artistic
inspiration when creating new product aromas. Currently, Guy is crafting organic air
care and therapeutically beneficial aromas for inclusion in upcoming products.
Prior to Aveda, Guy spent 16 years crafting aromas for leading brands, including:
Aromatherapy Associates, This Works, In Essence, Four Seasons Hotels and Mandarin
Oriental Hotels.
Guy honed his skill for aroma blending while apprenticing with a master craft brewer in
Australia. In his free time Guy enjoys cross country skiing, modern literature and
amateur gastronomy
Aveda Consultants
• Drs Vinod and Kusum Upadhyay are
ayurvedic doctors and Aveda
Consultants
Vinod and Kusum Upadhyay
These Ayurvedic physicians have been working with Aveda since1972. Aveda was
founded in 1978 so they have been with Aveda since before Aveda was even Aveda.
They own and run an ayurvedic clinic in a town called Haridwar in Northern India
outside Rishikesh. The name Upadhyay means “teacher” and Vinod comes from a
lineage of Ayurvedic teachers and practitioners that is 5000 years old. Specifically, he is
a specialist in Ayurvedic herbology and he also creates many of the medicines he uses
in his clinic. He recogonizes and uses over 30,000 species of plants. Kusum is an
ayurvedic specialist in women’s health.
• Pierre Franchomme,
a noted aroma
pharmacologist,
created the Men’s
aroma and is an
Aveda consultant
Pierre Franchomme
Born to Herbalist parents Pierre Franchomme has a long history with natural medicinal
studies. Mr. Franchomme, a protégé of Jean Valnet, chose to dedicate his professional
life to studying aromatherapy and is one of the worlds leading Clinical Aromatherapists.
Some of his accomplishments are the scientific discovery of the energy of aromatic
molecules, creation of a laboratory for aromatherapy based on the chemotyped
essential oils and the introduction of new essential oils in aromatherapy (Helichrysum
italicum, Inula graveolens, Ravensara aromatica, etc.)
He is the Author of reference books; L’Aromathérapie Exactement and La Science de
l’Aromathérapie as well as a Professor at the Faculty of Natural Medicine and Ethno
Medicine in Paris.
In 1990, Estee Lauder Companies brought Pierre on board to be the expert consultant
in clinical aromatherapy and pharmacology, where he continues to support Aveda in
their efforts to produce high quality, functional aroma blends.
We will focus on 4 functions:
•
•
•
•
Anti acne
Balancing through Elemental Nature
Anti-inflammatory / anti-oxidant
Chakra balancing
We will focus our time today on 4 functions of essential oils and Aveda’s specific
functional aroma blend:
1. Anti-acne or anti microbial – Outer Peace
2. Balancing through elemental nature – Scalp Remedy Balancing Concentrates
3. Anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant – Enbrightenment, Green Science and Aveda
Men
4. Chakra Balancing: Aveda Chakra
Function 1: anti-acne or anti-microbial
Outer Peace aroma:
• The Outer
Peace aroma is
an anti-acne,
anti-microbial
blend
Pass around the Outer Peace skin care products and have the participants smell the
product.
• Lemon Tea
Tree and
Geranium are
the 2 active
essential oils
The Outer Peace Skin Care line was created to target acne. For the functional aroma,
certified organic lemon tea tree and geranium were chosen for their activity against
Propionibacterium acnes (P.acnes), the microbe responsible for acne.
• A 50/50 blend showed a very good
inhibition of the P. acnes bacteria with
a minimum inhibitory concentration
(MIC) of 0.0391 compared to 5%
salicylic acid with a MIC of 0.1563%
Test data suggests that a 50/50 blend of these two essential oils showed very good
inhibition of P.acnes growth with a minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 0.0391%
compared to the standard active ingredient, 5% salicylic acid with an MIC of 0.1563%.
The entire line also uses the FDA recognized salicylic acid in different concentrations
but in our formulation the aroma adds to the anti-acne claims.
• What other aromas can you
detect in the blend?
• This light soothing
blend is complemented
by the anti-irritant
activity of lavender and
vetiver
To compliment these two important oils, lavender and vetiver were added for their
anti-irritant activity, along with other citrus, floral, wood and root oils, historically used to
reduce stress and tension. The result is a beautiful, light and soothing blend.
• Lemon Tea
Tree is so
named
because of
its similarity
to authentic
tea tree
Pass around blotters of Lemon Tea Tree and review some of it key features
Lemon Tea Tree
Botanical Latin name: Leptospermum petersonii.
Extraction method: distilled
Plant Part: leaves
Aromatic Qualities: citrus, medicinal, sharp,
Noteworthy anecdotes: Lemon tea tree is so named due to its similarity in activity to
authentic tea tree. It is not a combination of tea tree and lemon but rather a very distince
oil in and of itself. Written reports of Lemon Tea Tree are available as early as 1918. In
its native Australia, it is considered anti infectious, anti viral, antiseptic, expectorant,
anti-inflammatory and a digestive stimulant (Mark Webb). The oil is considered
stimulating in minute quantities and sedating at normal strength. The herb is burned as
an incense and smudge stick.
Emotional Attributes: atmospheric cleanser of negative emotions, aids concentration.
Aveda Sensory Profile Testing: refreshed, awakened, calm, confident, uplifted.
Traditional Aromatherapy uses: oily skin, acne, insect repellent, dandruff, respiratory
complaints, cold and flu.
Chemistry: The essential oil contains geranial and citral as major components. These
compounds are known to have significant antiseptic activity (5 times more potent than
phenol) as well as contributing to the pleasant, lemony scent of the oil.
Safety Data: may be slightly irritating to eyes and skin
References:
Harborne, J.B. and Baxter, H. eds., Phytochemical Dictionary, Taylor and Francis,
Washington, DC, 1993.
Webb, Mark, Bush Sense, self published, Griffin Press, Adelaide, Australia, 2000, pg
69; no references.
Geranium is often
referred to as Rose
Geranium and should
be not mistaken for the
flowers grown in flower
boxes
Pass around blotters with Geranium oil and review its main features
Geranium essential oil
Botanical Latin name: Pelargonium graveolens
Extraction: steam distillation
Plant Part: leaves
Aromatic Qualities: floral, green, sweet, citrus-like with a hint of rose
Noteworthy anecdotes: The Latin name for geranium stems from the Greek,
pelargos, meaning stork, because the shape of the seed capsules are long and pointy
like a stork’s bill. Due to the confusion of the common name geranium, Pelargonium is
often mistaken for the Geranium flowers commonly grown in flower boxes which are
true members of the genus Geranium. Geranium oil is referred to as Rose Geranium,
and is called “the poor man’s rose” as the two oils share some similar chemistry and
therefore, aroma.
Emotional Attributes: stress, discontent; improves mental outlook; for the workaholic
who needs to reconnect with the self and emotions.
Aveda Sensory Profile Testing: soothed, calm, relaxed, refreshed, stimulated,
uplifted.
Traditional Aromatherapy uses: antidepressant, antifungal, antispasmodic, antiinflammatory, astringent; acne, bruises, burns, scars, eczema, rash, varicosities,
cellulite, stress, oily skin, dermatitis, neuralgia.
Scientific evidence: Significant antibacterial activity has been shown for the essential
oil of Pelargonium graveolens (Dorman, Hammer). The oil exhibits broad antifungal
activity (Shin, Pattnaik), as well as antioxidant activity in the essential oil and the
hydrosol (Sun, et al).
Aveda 5-Lipoxygenase testing (anti-inflammatory): use level 0.03%
Safety Data - May be slightly irritating to eyes and skin
References
Dorman, H.J. and Deans, S.G. (2000) Antimicrobial agents from plants: antibacterial
activity of plant volatile oils. J. Appl. Microbiol. 88(2): 308-16.
Shin, S (2003) Anti-aspergillus activities of plant essential oils and their combination
effects with ketoconazole or amphotericin B. Arch. Pharm. Res. 26(5): 389-93
Sun W, Xu Z, Wang C, Qu W, Lin C. (2005), Study on antioxidant activity of essential
oils and its monomer from Pelargonium graveolens, Zhong Yao Cai Feb;28(2):87-9.
Function 2: Balancing through Elemental Nature
Elemental Nature is an ayurvedic
customization philosophy
Another way we create functional aroma blends is by using the Aveda Elemental Nature
philosophy which is based on the 5000 year old Indian healing tradition of Ayurveda.
• The 5 elements represent 5 forces
that are present in all living things:
Ayurveda tells us that the essence of the 5 natural elements, Infinity, Air, Fire, Water,
and Earth is found in all living things, including you. When these elements are balanced,
you skin and scalp look healthy, vital and radiant. When skin and scalp concerns
surface, it is a signal that an element needs to be balanced.
The elements cannot be taken literally. You do not have an actual fire burning within
you. Rather, these elements represent the five forces that are present within all living
things
• Infinity represents the open expanse
of the universe
Infinity: open expanse of the universe. Look around this room. What is it composed of?
99.99% empty space. But that is what makes it useful. If this room were solid, we could
not hold class in here. Infinity represents open space
• Air represents all movement
Air moves across space and thus it represents movement. The movement of your body,
you blood, the swaying of trees etc. any movement is a representation of air.
• Fire represents change or
transformation
Fire creates heat, which then creates change or transformation. If you burn a log in a
fire place, when the fire goes out, ash remains. Fire creates this change and represents
all changes within the body like digestion, the transformation of energy into food,
• Water represents cohesive and
attractive forces and is the glue that
holds the elements together
Water represent cohesive or attractive forces. Gravity is a good example for water.
What does gravity do for us? It holds us on the planet and creates a relationship
between us and the earth so we can live off of it. Water is glue that holds the elements
together.
• Earth represents matter
Earth represents solid matter. If this room is 99.99% empty space, the .01% that seems
solid is earth: the floor, ceiling, walls, tables, chairs etc.
The 5 elements combine into 3
functional groups:
Vata
Pitta
Kapha
The five elements combine into 3 functional groups as they interact within the body:
Infinity/ Air relate closely together as do Water / Earth. Fire combines with a little water
but the combination is mostly fire so we label it Fire only.
Prakruti is the mind body constitution
that you are born with and it never
changes throughout life
All of these elements are present within all people; if you did not have Infinity / Air, you
would be a statue. However each person has a unique combination of these elements
that make up their mind body constitution called the Prakruti. You are born with a
particular Prakruti that never changes throughout your life. It is just who you are
naturally. Some people have more infinity / air with just some fire, and a little bit of water
and earth. These people are quick (movement) thinkers, social, and move around a lot.
Other people have more fire, or more water /earth but they always have some of all 5
elements.
• Vikruti is an imbalanced state caused
by too much of a particular element.
Because Prakruti never changes, there is little we can do to balance it. However, there
is another term called Vikruti which are imbalanced states within the elements. A vikruit
is when you have too much of a particular element for who you are. You can go out of
balance in any of the 5 elements.
• Our experiences including diet,
lifestyle, work, emotions, and stress
have an effect on the elements
• Like qualities increase like
How do you get an imbalance? According to Ayurveda, every experience you have
manifests in your body and mind. In addition, our experiences influence the elements
and can either increase or decrease an element within you. When your lifestyle, work,
diet, environment, etc cause a particular element to increase, then that element
increases.. According to ayurveda, like qualities increase like. If your lifestyle choices
increase a particular element, you might develop an imbalance. For instance, if you
travel frequently, travel is movement so it increase infinity / air so while traveling you
might increase Infinity Air and then notice an imbalance of too much movement like
insomnia. During the summer, if you go out in the sun which has fire qualities, your skin
will turn red and burn which is too much fire and is a fire vikruit.
• Focus on using elemental nature to
describe a condition; not the individual
Prakruti focuses on the individual as a whole, whereas vikruti focuses on the condition.
For our purposes, it is important not to label people (more about Prakruti) as being a
particular element because everybody has all 3. It is better to identify the element(s) of
an imbalance (vikruti). So a person is not Fire, but their skin may have a Fire imbalance.
Infinity /Air
Fire
Water / Earth
Light
Light
Heavy
Cold
Hot
Cold
Dry
Moist
Moist
To make this easy, we will use the 3 main qualities of each element, use the power
point to walk the group thorugh the qualities
Think of Infinity Air: Is it
Light or heavy
Cold or hot
Dry or moist
light
cold
dry
The 3 main qualities are light cold and dry. Air is thus increased by light cold and dry
foods, weather, and activities
Fire:
Light or heavy
Cold or hot
Dry or moist
and humid)
Water/Earth:
Light or heavy
Cold or hot
Dry or moist
light
hot
moist (there is a little water in this combo; think hot
heavy
cold
moist
What is unique about each element?
Infinity / Air = dry share light with fire and cold with water / earth
Fire = hot
Water / Earth = heavy
To create balance, you need to use the opposite qualities to settle the element.
Is it light or heavy, cold or hot, dry or moist?
Which element(s) do Peppermint
and Patchouli balance?
Because it is light cold and dry, it balances fire and water/earth. The two main
properties of peppermint are cooling and stimulating. Fire needs to be cooled and water
/earth needs to be stimulated.
What do we call peppermint from an elemental nature perspective?
Is it light or heavy, cold or hot, dry or moist?
Because it is heavy hot (or warming) and moist it balances infinity / air
Infinity Air needs heavy hot and moist to create balance
Fire needs heavy cold and dry
Water Earth needs light hot and dry
Our consultatants, the ayurvedic doctors Upadhyays, along with our in house aroma
team classified all the essential oils Aveda uses based on which elemental nature they
balance.
The Aveda team can then create functional elemental nature blends
• The Scalp Remedy Balancing
Concentrates use the Elemental Nature
Philosophy to balance scalp conditions.
The Scalp Remedy Balancing Concentrates utilize ayurvedic philosophy to balance
scalp conditions with the power of essential oils. There are 3 functional aroma blends.
Infinity Air for dry scalp conditions, Fire for red and irritated scalps and water earth for
oily scalp conditions.
• Smell the 3 blends and determine
which elements they balance
Put rosemary, rose, Vetiver, and on blotters labeling them 1,2 and 3. Have the
participants smell the aromas and categorize them according to which element they
balance. Scalp Remedy Balancing Concentrate would contain each oil.
Aroma 1 is Rosemary which is in Water / Earth (light, stimulating)
Aroma 2 is Rose which is in Fire (floral aromas balance fire)
Aroma 3 is Vetiver which is in Infinity / Air (heavy, hot moist, )
Have the group also smell the 3 scalp remedy balancing concentrates and guess which
one is which. See if they can detect the aromas from the previous exercise.
• Smell the 3 blends and guess which
balancing concentrate it is.
• See if you can detect the aromas
smelled in the previous exercise
Review the oils within each Scalp Remedy Balancing Concentrate as the group smells
the final blends. These products are used for scalp treatments as a stand alone
experience or a part of Botanical Hair and Scalp Therapy.
Scalp Conditions
when Out of
Balance
Elemental Nature
to be Balanced
Product that Balances the Condition
Product
Scalp is Dry

spots of dry
patches
overall dryness
small dry flakes
Scalp
Remedy
Infinity/Air Nature
Scalp is:

Conditioning
Concentrate
Scalp
Remedy
Soothing
Concentrate
Redness
Irritation
Key Aromatherapeutic
Essential Oils
Benefit

Cedarwood
Patchouli
Vetiver
Conditions Dry
Scalp
Conditions

Lavender
Blue Camomile
Rose
Soothes Red
and Irritated
Scalp
Conditions

Rosemary
Tea Tree
Orange
Purifies Oily
Scalp
Conditions
Fire Nature
Scalp is Oily

Scalp
Remedy
Purifying
visible
oil/sebum
large oily flakes
Water/Earth Nature
Concentrate
The Infinity / Air Balancing
Concentrates balances dry
scalp conditions with vetiver,
patchouli, and cedarwood
Scalp Remedy Balancing Concentrate for Infinity / Air contains cedar wood, patchouli,
vetiver, ginger, lavender, and other oils
The Fire Balancing
Concentrate soothes red and
irritated scalps with rose,
German chamomile, and
lavender
Scalp Remedy Balancing Concentrate for Fire contains lavender, blue chamomile,
helichrysum, rose, ylang ylang and other oils
The Water Earth Balancing
Concentrate balances oily scalp
conditions with a bi phasic
formula containing rosemary,
tea tree, and orange
Scalp Remedy Balancing Concentrate for Water contains rosemary, tea tree, orange,
lavender, peppermint and other essential oils. The bi-phase formula contains organic
soy oil to nurture and protect the scalp and a liquid phase with mild astringents to purify
the scalp while removing excess oil. Prior to applying, shake the formula together to
mix the two phases.
All of the blends contain lavender which is considered a full spectrum oil that is good for
all elemental natures.
These Balancing
Concentrates are
used in the Scalp
Balance Treatment
within Botanical Therapy
These oils are used in the Scalp Balance Treatment within Botanical Therapy or can be
used for any scalp treatment
Function 3: anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant
Anti-inflammatory and Anti-oxidant
functional aroma blends
Review with the class the following. To test for anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory
effects, Aveda uses the following tests:
Aveda test anti-inflammatory and
anti-oxidant effects with the
5LOX assay and the DPPH assay
To test for anti-inflammatory benefits Aveda uses the 5LOX assay. This test tube
experiment evaluates the anti-inflammatory activity of a potential ingredient through the
use of 5-lipoxygenese (5LOX), a integral enzyme in the human inflammatory pathway.
To test for anti oxidant blends Aveda uses the DPPH assay. This test tube experiment
evaluates a potential ingredients ability to scavenge free radicals by combing it with
diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazine (DPPH) which carries an odd electron. If the electron is
paired off after combining, anti-oxidant activity is suggested.
More detailed info for trainer (also in the appendix of the workbook)
DPPH assay: This is a test tube experiment to evaluate a potential ingredient’s ability to
scavenge free radicals or its antioxidant activity. The ingredient (e.g. essential oil) is
combined with diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazine (DPPH), which carries an odd electron. If this
particular ingredient is a free radical scavenger, the odd electron becomes paired off.
This action results in a direct color change within the well. The plate is then inserted
into a spectrophotometric plate reader which generates specific values. The result,
therefore, is determined by these values in combination with the color change. From
the result, we can then determine use level in formulation.
5LOX assay: This test tube experiment evaluates the anti-inflammatory activity of a
potential ingredient through the use of 5-lipoxygenase (5LOX). 5LOX is an integral
enzyme in the human inflammatory pathway and inhibiting this enzyme reduces the
production of inflammatory mediators (leukotrienes) thusly reducing inflammation. So
within this assay, the ingredient is analyzed for its inhibition of the 5LOX enzyme.
Results are obtained only through values produced by the plate reader (this assay is not
colorimetric), and from these results, we determine use level in formulation.
In groups, visit the 3 stations and
around the room, smelling the products,
and answering the questions in your
workbook
Set up 3 stations around the room: Enbrightenment, Green Science, and Aveda Men.
Each station should have the complete line of products within that franchise. In addition
each station should have the information sheet (run off in color pages 41-43 from the
workbook on separate pieces of paper) on each franchise which has basic information
about each line along with information on 2 of the main essential oils within that range.
Anti-inflammatory and Anti-oxidant
Divide the class into groups of 2-4. Have the groups visit each of the stations smelling
the products, reviewing the information sheets and answering the questions in their
workbooks.
At the completion, review the answers
1. What are the two main functional aromas in the Enbrightenment aroma?
Lavender and Rosemary
2. Inflammation and oxidation have been indicated in contributing to
______________.hyperpigmentation
3. True of False: Lavender is the most versatile of all of the essential oils.
True
4. List at least 3 properties of Lavender.
Anti-stress, anti-microbial, anti-insomnia, reduction of cortisol, anti-septic,
burns and wound healing?
5. What are the complimentary aromas in the Enbrightenment blend?
Geranium and sandalwood
6. List 2 properties of Rosemary oil.
Anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, remembrance
7. From what part of Rosemary is the oil distilled?
Flowering branches
Green Science: a anti-aging skin care range that targets fine lines and wrinkles (insert
product image here)
1. What are the 2 main functional essential oils in the Green Science aroma?
Rose and sandalwood
2. The Green Science aroma showed anti-inflammatory effects at _____%.
.006%
3. Inflammation has been indicated in the formation of ___________ and
________________. Fine lines and wrinkles
4. What are the complimentary aromas in the Green Science aroma?
Geranium, grapefruit, bergamot, cistus, roman camomile, and lavender
5. Rose is known as the ______ of essential oils.
queen
6. From where does Aveda get Sandalwood oil?
Australia
7. Rose has a calming effect on __________ ___________ ___________
______ as measured by decreases in blood pressure and adrenaline.
Parasympathetic nervous system activity
8. What is one of the chemical constituents that is in Sandalwood?
bisabolol
Aveda Men:
M
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are and skin
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f the need
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2 produccts images on of hairccare (dark colored
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prod
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colored products
W
Aveda consulta
ant created the Aveda Men’s aroma?
1. Which
Pierrre Francho
ome
2. What
W
are 2 of
o the main aromas in Aveda Men?
Patc
chouli and orange
W
are the
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3. What
Lave
ender, vetiv
ver, spearm
mint, and lemon
l
4. What
W
does Patchouli
P
m
mean
in the Tamil language?
Gree
en leaf
5. List 3 properties and / or uses of patchouli oil.
Promote the formation of scar tissue, calming effect on parasympathetic
nervous system, decreases blood pressure and adrenaline, signature scent of
“flower children”
6. List 3 properties and / or uses of orange oil.
Anti-fungal, anti-bacterial, and anti-anxiety
Information sheets:
Enbrightenment: A skin care line that targets hyperpigmentation, discoloration, and dark
spots.
Enbrightenment : An aroma with organic lavender, rosemary, sandalwood and
geramium that is soothing and calming to the skin
Anti-inflammatory (5 lox ) and anti-oxidant (DPPH) studies suggest good activity for the
aroma blend. These 2 effects are useful in any skin care formulation. Furthermore,
inflammation and oxidation have been indicated in contributing to hyperpigmentation.
Botanical Latin name: Lavandula angustifolia .
Extraction: distilled
Plant Part: flowering tops
Aromatic Qualities: floral, sweet, slightly herbaceous
Lavender comes from the word, ‘lavare’, meaning ‘to wash’. Lavender has had a long
association with bathing and cleanliness, perhaps because it was a relatively effective
antiseptic in an era of generally unsanitary conditions. It is evident in our modern words,
lavatory and lavage. Lavender is the most versatile of all of the essential oils and a
common saying in aromatherapy is “When in doubt, use lavender”. It is also the most
widely studied essential oil and studies suggest a number of properties including antianxiety, anti-microbial, anti- stress, anti-insomnia, and reduction of cortisol (stress
hormone) levels in the body among many others.
Pass around a blotter with Rosemary:
Botanical Latin name: Rosmarinus officinalis L.
Plant Part: flowering branches
Aromatic Qualities: herbaceous, camphor, with woody-balsamic undertones.
The name means “dew of the sea” - from the Latin ros, dew, and marinus, sea. This
well known culinary herb was made famous by Shakespeare’s Hamlet: “there’s
rosemary, that’s for remembrance”. In ancient times it was often included in special
ceremonies such as weddings and funerals to remember the beloved or the departed,
respectively. In antiquity rosemary was associated with Aphrodite, the goddess of love..
Studies have shown that rosemary essential oil has antibacterial and antifungal activity
due to the actions of several of its constituents, including 1,8-cineole
Green Science:
A functional, certified organic aroma of rose, sandalwood, geranium oil, grapefruit oil,
bergamot oil, cistus, roman camomile, and lavender is soothing and calming to the skin.
Inflammation is the root cause to many skin conditions but it has been shown to be
directly indicated in fine line and wrinkle formation. The Green science aroma blend has
shown great anti inflammatory activity through 5- Lox tests.
Rose and Australian Sandalwood are two of the main ingredients within the Green
Science aroma:
Pass around a blotter with Rose
Rose essential oil
Botanical Latin name: Rosa damascena
Plant Part: flowers
Aromatic Qualities: floral, sweet, heady, spicy
The rose is the most celebrated of flowers, symbol of love and beauty and long
recognized as representing the feminine principle. It is also revered for inspiring spiritual
devotion, representing love on all levels. Rose has a long history of use throughout
civilization and a multitude of cultures as a food, medicine and cosmetic.
The precious rose oil is obtained by careful steam distillation of the freshly picked
flowers of the Damask rose, mainly in Bulgaria, Turkey, Morocco and China. There are
several reasons for the high cost of rose oil. It takes several hundred man-hours to pick
the 3-4 tons of flowers needed to produce 1 kg of rose oil; it takes 30-60 roses to make
1 drop of oil. It also contains very few secretory cells, making it one of the most
expensive of all the essential oils. (1 kilo of rose = 1 ml of oil compared to 1 kilo of
lavender = 12 ml of oil) More than 350 compounds have been identified, hinting at its
broad range of activity. It is known as the “queen of essential oils” In studies, Rose has
shown a calming effect on sympathetic nervous system activity as measured by by
decreases in blood pressure and adrenaline.
Australian Sandalwood:
Pass around a blotter of Sandalwood
Botanical Latin name: Santalum spicatum.
Plant Part: heartwood
Aromatic Qualities: earthy, woody, sweet, balsamic, powdery finish
Sandalwood has always been considered a sacred tree, whether native to India, Hawaii
or Australia. Though the species may vary, each culture recognized the inherent
wisdom of these genera that has carried an association with metaphysics, spirituality
and wide ranging religious practices. The wood was valued for its insecticidal properties
against tropical pests and was often used in building sacred temples; not only were they
resistant to termite damage, the fragrance was thought to put the occupants into a calm,
receptive and meditative state. Australian sandalwood has been reported to have
bisabolol constituents which studies have showen to be anti-inflammatory activity .
Aveda Men
Pass around the Men’s products. Have the participants notice the differences with this
aroma compared to the Green Science and Embrightenment. Even though the aromas
are quite different, the Aveda Men’s aroma was also found to have both anti oxidant
and anti inflammatory effects.
The aroma was created by Pierre Franchromme a noted aroma pharmacologist. Two
the main oils are patchouli and orange.
The Aveda Men’s aroma was found to have both anti oxidant and anti inflammatory
effects.
Two of the main ingredients are patchouli and orange.
Pass around a blotter of patchouli
Patchouli essential oil
Botanical Latin name: Pogostemon cablin
Plant Part: leaves
Aromatic Qualities: earthy, musty, herbaceous, balsamic with wood undertones.
Noteworthy anecdotes: The etymology is from the Greek pogon, meaning beard, and
stemon, stamen; the stamens of the small flowers are hairy. In the Tamil language of
South Asia and India where patchouli grows, pach means green, and ilai, leaf. This
unlikely member of the mint family shares little of the aroma of most of its relatives; it is
reminiscent of root oil, though is distilled from the leaves. Indian shawls imported to
England were originally packed with patchouli leaves to repel insects; sales lagged
when they were later sold without the distinctive lingering scent. It enjoyed a surge in
popularity during the 1960’s and was the signature scent of a generation of ‘flower
children’. Patchouli oil is an important perfume component and fixative, but is also used
to flavor soft drinks. Patchouli was historically used in skin care to promote the
formation of scar tissue. Studies have shown anti-fungal activity as well as a calming
effect on sympathetic nervous system activity as measured by decreases in blood
pressure and adrenaline.
Pass around a blotter of Orange
Orange oil
Botanical Latin name: Citrus sinensis
Plant Part: fruit peel
Aromatic Qualities: fresh, light, sweet, fruity, citrusy
Noteworthy anecdotes: This native of the Far East is one of the most recognized and
universally appealing fragrances known, probably in part due to its pleasant and wide
spread enjoyment of the tasty fruit. It is widely used in non-toxic household cleansers
and solvents. Numerous studies have reported antifungal, antibacterial, and anti-anxiety
activity.
Function 4: Chakra Balancing
Introduce the concept of Chakras:
The Aveda Chakra
aromas represent the
heritage of Aveda:
Aromaology and
Ayurveda
The chakras represent the heritage of Aveda since the company was founded upon
ayurvedic principles along with the power of essential oils. Aveda created these
functional aroma blends to keep this heritage alive.
Ask: what is a chakra?
• Chaka means “wheel”
• Chakras are junctions
between mind and body
• Chakra relate to
physical,mental and
emotional characteristics,
Explain: Chakra means “wheel” and the chakras are 7 spinning wheels of colored
energy that are said to be junction points between consciousness and matter. This
means they are links between the mind and body. The chakra are tools for personal
growth so by listening to the body one can cannot oneself to the various issues that
arise in life whether physical, mental, emotional, or spiritual. The system derives from
ayurvedic philosophy which has a history of over 5000 years. There are two major flows of
energy through the chakras:
• Ascending flow
• Descending or manifesting
flow
The energy that flows through the chakras in called kundalini. Kundalini is said to be a
coiled serpent. When this energy awakens, it spirals upward (like a snake) from the 1st
to the 7th (and back down) chakras to create the spin of the centers. The upward flow of
energy is called the ascending flow and it connects us to a sense of purpose and to
something greater than ourselves. The first 2 chakras relate strongly to the physical, 3-5
relate strongly to the mind, and 6-7 relate strongly to spirituality. The movement upward
thus moves us from the physical through the mind and on to something greater than
ourselves. Any time you are wondering “why we are here”, “what is our greater purpose”
this is an awakening of this energy in the body. It helps us find a sense of purpose. This
awakening of energy has sparked all of the religious beliefs in the world as people from
all cultures seek meaning in their life.
The energy also flows from the 7th to the 1st chakra and this is called the descending or
manifesting current. This energy takes that sense of purpose and brings in into your
mind and then down in the physical world. It is how we manifest our ideas into physical
reality. If you are a massage therapist, esthetician, nail technician, or hairdresser and
some point in your life you had to say I want to be a massage therapist, etc. You then
researched schools, rearranged your schedule, found the funds necessary to attend
school, studied and learned and graduated from a program to become a massage
therapist. This is the descending flow in action whether you were conscious of it or not.
Any time you take an idea and manifest it, that is utilizing the manifesting current of the
chakras.
• Chakras are the 7 main
energy centers of the body
• What is energy?
Chakras are energy centers: What is energy?
Energy is a physical phenomenon. Flashing back to a physics class in high school, the
physical universe is made up of matter and energy. They are neither created nor
destroyed. So energy is simply physical. It is more subtle than solid matter so it is often
interpreted differently. Sometimes people say they do not believe in the body’s energy.
But if the body does not have energy and energy is not real, how does your mobile
phone work? Your voice shows up on the other side of the world through nothing. That
concept can seem weird. Because energy is subtle it is often interpreted as something
spiritual. But that is a wholly different aspect of life whereas energy is simply a physical
force.
Everyone has felt energy at some point. If you go to a funeral, there is something that
you feel as a group of people is mourning the loss of a loved one. Yet you cannot touch
this something you can only feel it. What you are feeling is the energy of the group. This
energy is always around though in intense situations like a funeral, it is even easier to
sense.
• Chakra are tools for
personal growth
• Let go of the idea of
“balanced” or
“unbalanced” chakras
The chakras are not strange or mystical. They are practical tools for personal growth
and everyone is familiar with at least one of them even though they may not have called
it a “chakra”.
Have you ever been “heartbroken?” What do you mean? Did your heart break?
Obviously no or you would be dead. So we are talking in non-direct language when we
say heartbroken. But we all know what we mean when we say heartbroken. There is a
reason we do not say “elbow broken” or “knee broken”. When we go through the loss of
a relationship, we process those emotions through the heart center. This is simply the
heart chakra. Saying you are heart broken is the same thing as saying my heart chakra
is talking to me. The heart chakra is where we process our connections to others
through friendships and relationships. We have 6 other centers where we process 6
other facets of life.
Let go of the idea of balanced or imbalanced chakras or open and closed chakras.
Are you healthy? If so, can you be healthier? Of course you can, so your health is on a
spectrum with as unhealthy as you can be at one end and as healthy as you can.
Everyone is somewhere between these 2 ends. Based on your diet, exercise, lifestyle
choice, stress and many other factors, you are either moving toward better health or
moving away from better health. The same is true for the chakras. Based on your
experiences, you are either moving towards the “balanced” qualities or moving towards
the “imbalanced” or “out of balance” properties. When you see the charka cards, it
discuss properties when balanced and when out of balance so interpret this loosely so
when you are moving towards balance these are the properties that you notice and
when you are moving in the out of balance direction, these are the qualities that arise. In
other words, do not think of the chakras in black and white, either balanced or
imbalanced. Rather think of them as gray and your life experiences are helping you
explore this gray through the energy of the chakras. If you are going through a divorce,
it does mean your heart center is imbalanced. It just is active as you process this
relationship loss and subsequent change in your life.
• The aromas do not
“fix” the chakras
• They can be used
to enhance a
meditation or yoga
practice.
At Aveda, we created 7 aromas to work with the chakra centers. They are not magical
aromas that fix the chakras. You cannot spray Chakra 5 (the center of expression)
around your quiet partner at home and expect him to all of a sudden start expressing his
emotions. Instead the aromas help you bring you awareness to these chakras through
the power of essential oils. Once you are focused on this center, you can then process
your experiences to help you move towards more connection to each aspect of the self.
The Chakras aroma were
created by the Aveda Team
along with the guidance
of Drs. Vinod and Kusum
Upadhyay
• Pierre Franchome
• Ko-ichi Shiozawa
To create these aromas we worked with our consultants, Drs Vinod and Kusum
Upadhyay. We discussed these ayurvedic doctors in the consultant section earlier in
this chapter. If you remember, Vinod Upadhyay is a specialist in ayurvedic herbology
and he creates his own medicines from plants that he uses in his clinic. The Upadhyays
selected the essentials oils that have functionality with each Chakra. Pierre
Franchomme, who studies the medicinal properties of plants from a western point of
view, added his take. So if this chakra works with these physical issues, these essential
oils work with these issues. He was only involved at the very beginning of the project
Once we had a selection of oils for each chakra. Koichi Shiozawa then went to work
creating purefumes with the selected oils. Once we had aromas that he liked, the
aromas were sent to India. The Upadhyays worked with them in their clinic and gave
feedback (more of this oil, etc) and they went back and forth with Koichi until the
Upadhyays were happy with the functionality of the blends and Koichi was happy with
the purefume aspect.
Give each table a set of Chakra cards. Have the table review the information on each
chakra smelling each of the blends as they do so. One person can read the info on the
card while the others smell the aroma. Each person at the table should read the info
about at least one chakra.
Review the chakras with the group.
Chakra 1 is the root center
• Muladhara – the root
• Location – the base of the spine
• Connects us to our sense of
survival, security, and the physical
self
Chakra 1 is called muladhara (“the root”) or the root center and is the foundation of the
entire system. It is located at the base of the spine. It relates to our sense of security
and safety and is our strongest connection to the physical self. Many of us spend our
time “thinking in our head” and only pay attention to the body when there is pain. The 1st
chakra helps us tune in to the physical self so we learn to listen to what the body wants
to tell us. Babies in the first month of life are exploring the physical self. Their eyes do
not focus and they are essentially physical beings. When they are hungry they cry,
when they are cold, they cry, when they have gas they cry. Etc. Once these basic needs
are met, they settle down again. They are setting their physical foundation. This is the
center to focus on when you need to listen to the body and whenever life gets out of
control with stress as it is the grounding center that connects us to our basic needs.
• Sound – lam
• Aroma- vetiver, patchouli
and frankincense
The symbols on the cards are traditional symbols of the chakras. Each chakra is visually
represented by a lotus flower with a different number of petals. The first chakra has 4
petals. (In the Sanskrit alphabet there are 50 letters and in the first 6 chakras there are
50 petals so each petal represents a different letter) The chakras are said to be spinning
wheels of colored energy so each has a color. The rainbow is the most basic system
used. ROYGBIV (red, orange, yellow, green, light blue, dark blue (instead of indigo) and
violet. Red is the heaviest frequency of color it is the heaviest or lowest chakra so the
symbol on the 1st chakra is red. The symbol in the middle is the Sanskrit symbol for the
seed sound of the chakra. A seed sound is a mantra that you could repeat to yourself
that is said to resonate with the energy of the chakra to help you focus on the center,
much in the same way the aromas help you focus on the chakras. The seed sound of
the 1st chakra is lam and that is the symbol for LAM. Many westerners do not connect to
mantras so at Aveda we also use a word for each chakra that represents its function in
the body. One can repeat these words to focus on the chakras. the word for the 1st
chakra is grounding. The aroma of the first chakra is vetiver, patchouli and
frankincense.
Vetiver is a root
oil that is used
for the root
center
What is vetiver?
• As an example of ayurvedic thinking, the first or root chakra contains vetiver.
Vetiver oil comes from the root of a grass. As the roots of the grass ground the
plant and connect it to its survival, so the aroma connects us the 1st chakra our
grounding center
Vetiver:
Botanical Latin name: Vetiveria zizanoides
Plant Part: roots
Aromatic Qualities: very deep earthy, woodsy aroma with sweet undertones
Noteworthy antedotes: Vetiver has been used traditionally in bath and massage oils to
aid relaxation and centering. Inhabitants of Java made innovative screens from the
vetiver roots and when used in a window or a fan it released the aroma throughout the
house. Vetiver is an extremely relaxing stress reducer that helps relieve stiffness.
Vetiver has been described as sedating, restoring, and
centering.
• Chakra 2 is the pleasure center
• Svadhisthana - sweetness
• Location – below the navel
• Exploring the physical world
though the 5 senses to nourish and
vitalize the physical self
Chakra 2 is svadhisthana (“sweetness”) or the pleasure center and this is the center of
our connection to the physical world around us through the 5 senses. It is located just
below (about 2 fingers’ width) the navel. Chakra 1 connects us to our physical self and
chakra 2 is connecting us the physical world around us. Thus it is the center of
nourishment and vitality as we nourish ourselves through food and taste, through smell,
through touch, through music and sound and through visuals and sight. By focusing on
this center, you can bring nourishment to anywhere in the body. Sensuality is also
connected to this chakra.Babies explore this chakra after their first month through the
first year as they explore the world around them. Their eyes start to focus, the see
things pick them up, put them in their mouth etc.
• Sound – vam
• Aroma – orange,
geranium, and
sandalwood
Chakra 2 has 6 petals, is orange in color and the sound is VAM. The meditative word is
nourishment and the aroma is sandalwood, geranium and orange
Chakra 3 is the power center
• Manipura – lustrous gem
• Location – solar plexus
• Connects us to our sense of self,
confidence, and unites our actions
and intentions
Chakra 3 is manipura (“lustrous gem”) and the power center. It is located in the solar
plexus in the soft part of the upper abdomen just below the breastbone. Now we move
up from the physical world into the mental world and our sense of identity. What do you
want to do with your life? What are you doing with your life? If these two things are
separate, then you feel it in your gut. If they are aligned, the you become a strong
person, with strong ideas and self confidence. College kids are focused on the 3rd
chakra figuring out what they want to do with their lives. And just because you settle that
once, does not mean you do not continually do this throughout your life. In toddlers, the
“terrible twos” are a 3rd chakra focus as they learn the word “no” and start developing
their sense of identity and their likes and dislikes.
• Sound – ram
• Aroma – lemon, lavender
and balsam fir
Chakra 3 has 10 petals, is yellow in color, and the sound is RAM. The meditative word
is intention and the aroma is lavender, lemon and balsam fir.
Chakra 4 is the heart center
• Anahata – the sound which issues
without the striking of any 2 things
together
• Location – center of the chest
• Center of love and compassion
Chakra 4 is anahata (“the sound which issues without the striking of any 2 things
together”) and is the heart center. It is located in the center of the chest. Everything you
stereotypically think of with the heart is connected with the heart center: love,
compassion, sympathy, empathy, and laughter. Whereas the first 3 chakras are ego
centric centers, this is the center or relationships and our connections to others.
• Sound – yam
• Aroma – mandarin,
palmarosa, and
sandalwood
Chakra 4 has 12 petals, is green in color, and the sound is YAM. The meditative word is
harmony and the aroma is palmarosa (a grass in the same family as citronella),
mandarin, and sandalwood.
Chakra 5 is the throat center
• Visuddha – free from impurities
• Location – the throat
• Relates to expression and
and communication
Chakra 5 is visuddha (“free from impurities”) and is the throat center. It is located in the
throat at the base of the neck. This is the center of communication, expression, and
creativity. If you are ever feeling choked up and are not able to say the things you need
to say, this is the 5th chakra. When you are an effective communicator, your creativity
opens up. If you have a sore throat, it can be a good idea to think about what you need
to say to someone as this could be an indication you are holding something back.
• Sound – ham
• Aroma – rosemary,
grapefruit and ylang ylang
Chakra 5 has 16 petals, is light blue in color and the sound is HAM. The meditative
word is expression and the aroma is rosemary, grapefruit and ylang ylang.
Chakra 6 is the Third Eye
• Ajna – communication from
above
• Location – in between the
eyebrows
• Center of imagination, intuition,
and perception
Chakra 6 is ajna (“communication from above”) and is the 3rd eye center. It is located in
between the eyebrows. It is the center of imagination, intuition and perception.
Whenever you let go of things that hold you back and just imagine your future
possibilities, this is the 6th chakra. If you get a phone call and you know intuitively who it
is, that is the 3rd eye center. And also your perceptions or how well you pick up on non
verbal cues. How you read body language, tone of voice, energy or any other type of
subtle communication.
• Sound – sham
• Aroma – orange,
geranium, and petitgrain
Chakra 6 has 2 petals (it looks like an eye), is dark blue in color and the sound is
SHAM. The meditative word is insight and the aroma is orange, geranium, and
petitgrain (from the leaves of the bitter orange tree neroli is from the flowers of the same
tree)
Chakra 7 is the bliss center
• Sahasrara – thousand petaled
• Location – crown of the head
• Center of wisdom and
enlightenment that connects to
purpose and meaning in life
Chakra 7 is sahasrara (“thousand petaled”) and is the bliss center. It is located at the
crown of the head. It is the center of wisdom and enlightenment and connects us to
something greater than our selves. It is our connection to deeper meaning and our
sense of purpose. You can think of it as the “master chakra” as it works with all of the
other chakras to bring meaning. If the third chakra is what you want to do with your life,
chakra 7 is why you want to do that. Chakra 7 is also connected with a term ananda in
Sanskrit. Ananda means bliss and when you connect to this center, you can feel an
intense sense of joy or bliss about life. This is different that the joy you feel from kids or
friends or situations in life. It is more about life itself.
• Sound – om
• Aroma – frankincense,
elemi, and angelica
Charka 7 has a thousand petals (though the aveda creative team likes cleaner looking
images. There are 20 petals here but 20 X50 is 1000 so you multiply the 50 petals by 20
to get 1000 so 20 petals can work for this image), is violet in color and the sound is OM.
OM is the universal mantra sound so it is connected with the universal or “master”
chakra. The meditative word is wisdom and the aroma is frankincense, angelica (an
herb that is in the same family as parsley) and elemi ( a resin from a tree that grows in
Indonesia)
The Chakra meditation
can be downloaded at
aveda.com
Lead the group through the chakra mediation. Have them choose their favorite chakra.
This meditation can be downloaded from Aveda.com. Go to aveda.com, click on
purefume, look for the link “learn more about chakras here. When the window opens
click on the wellness tab and the chakra meditation.
•
“The chakra balancing meditation is a simple practice that can be done from 5
minutes to 30 minutes to decrease your stress, deepen your breathing, and
center your mind.
•
During the practice visualize a spinning wheel of colored energy at the location of
each chakra (right brain visual) while silently repeating the meditative word of
each chakra (left brain language). “
•
Whatever the chakra words mean to you, imagine that feeling growing stronger
during the practice.
•
For example, the word for chakra 1 is grounding. As you repeat the word
grounding, feel yourself becoming more grounded with each moment.
•
Spray your chosen Chakra Balancing Body Mist around your body
•
Sit comfortably with the spine erect or lie down on the floor.
•
Close your eyes and focus on deep diaphragmatic breaths so that as you inhale
your abdomen expands and as you exhale your abdomen contracts.
•
For each chakra, visualize a spinning wheel of colored energy at the location of
each chakra while silently repeating the word of each chakra.
•
The 1st chakra is located at the base of the spine. The word for the 1st or root
chakra is grounding. The color is red. Grounding.
•
The 2nd chakra is located just below the navel. The word for the 2nd or pleasure
chakra is nourishment. The color is orange. Nourishment.
•
The 3rd chakra is located in the solar plexus.. The word for the 3rd or power
chakra is intention. The color is yellow. Intention.
•
The 4th chakra is located in the center of the chest. The word for the 4th or heart
chakra is harmony. The color is green. Harmony.
•
The 5th chakra is located at the base of the neck. The word for the 5thor or throat
chakra is expression. The color is light blue. Expression.
•
The 6th chakra is located in between the eyebrows. The word for the 6th or third
eye chakra is insight. The color is dark blue. Insight.
•
The 7th chakra is located at the crown of the head. The word for the 7th or bliss
chakra is wisdom. The color is violet. Wisdom.
•
As you continue to focus on deep diaphragmatic breaths, you can also visualize
the ascending and descending flows of energy through the chakra. As you
inhale, visualize energy entering into the crown and moving its way down the
spine to the tailbone, and as you exhale, visualize the energy moving from the 1st
chakra up the spine and out the crown of the head at the 7th chakra.
•
Continue to focus on taking deep breaths, but stop focusing on the chakras and
just sit easily for a few moments.
•
Wiggle your fingers and wiggle your toes and slowly open your eyes.
• Create another script so that you may
introduce Aveda Functional aromas to your
guests.
Have the group brainstorm ways in which they can share the information on functional
blends to their guests. They can script a conversation on page 52. Have each
participant write a script for either a particular product or the general concept of Aveda
Singular Notes:
Aveda Singular Notes
• Singular Notes are single essential
oils in a coconut oil base
• They are retail products that are
safe for direct application to the
skin
Aveda’s singular notes are single essential oils in a carrier base of light coconut oil
(caprilyic capric triglercyride). Because they are diluted essential oils, they are safe for
retail use. These are great products for those guests who want to explore the use of
essential oils.
What are some
ways you can use
singular notes at
home?
Activity:
Have the participants group up at their table and brainstorm ways in which to use the
singular notes at home. Each group should share 3 suggestions.
• Singular Notes can be used
professionally for skin and body
conditions
• 1-2 drops can be added to a masque
or moisturizer
Professional blending: Singular notes can also be blended in professional blends for
use in the spa
•
1-2 drops of a single oil can be blended with a masque or moisturizer and used
during a facial.
Blends can be created by adding up to
40 drops to an applicator bottle with:
• Professional Massage Oil
• Hydrating Formula
• All Sensitive Composition
•
•
•
•
For blends, up to 40 drops of 3 oils can blended in a 2 oz applicator bottle with
o Professional massage oil
o Hydrating Formula
o All Sensitive Composition
To create a blend that smells like an equal blend of oils, simply add an equal
number of drops to the blend (i.e. rose absolute 20 drops, sandalwood 20 drops)
To create a blend with one aroma more dominating than the other simply add
more of one aroma than another based on percentages) (i.e. if you want and
rose and sandalwood blend where sandalwood dominates use sandalwood 25
drops and rose absolute 15 drops or some other proportion)
Always blend the Singular Notes together before adding to the base product
•
•
If you mix the oils individually into the base, then your final product will smell like
different oils at different times, but not smell like a blend.
Blend the Singular Notes into a 2 oz. applicator bottle, shake well, and then
add the base.
Learning about essential oils takes time. Most books on aromatherapy are better as
references rather than reading the entire book all the way through. On page 56 are
some suggested books. These are great to keep in the team room of the spa and each
week, you can pick a different oil, read about it and use it that week. After time, your
knowledge continues to grow
Create your own functional blend:
• Choose 2-3 Singular Notes
• Add up to 40- drops of the chosen oils into
an applicator bottle
• Add the base
Have each participant create their own functional blend:
Directions:
1. Pick a function for your blend: It could be to relieve sore muscles, for dry skin, for
acne, elemental nature blend etc.
2. Research the singular notes on pages 56-62.
3. Pick 1-3 oils that will either serve that function or enhance the purefume aspect
of your blend
4. Blend up to 40 drops of the singular notes in an applicator bottle. Write down the
blend in your workbook as you create it. It is best to blend less than 40 drops at
first so you can smell the blend during the process to see if you like it. That way if
you do not like it, you can add more drops to change the blend
5. Add your chosen base to the applicator and shake well
Walk around the room and give advice and suggestions for blending.
Have the participants create a 2nd blend.
As participants share their blends or as they are creating blends, you can share
information on the essential oils from the power point.
Bergamot is good for
anxiousness and
can be used to relieve
tension
Bergamot Oil
Botanical Latin Name: Citrus bergamia:
Extraction – expression
Plant Plant – fruit peel
Aromatic Qualities: sweet fruity aroma with citrus undertones
Elemental Nature – balances Water/ Earth, Infinity /Air
Skin Condition – good for oily and blemished conditions as well as acne prone skin.
Traditional and well-being uses – Bergamot is uplifting and relaxing and works as a
great deodorant and is useful for anxious clients. Bergamot has been used as an insect
repellent and is thought to have anti-depressant properties and has been used for loss
of appetite. Bergamot has also been used to balance mental and psychological states
and to relieve tension.
Cinnamon Bark in
clove is a warming oil
that is good to soothe
sore muscles
Cinnamon Bark in Clove
Botanical Latin Name: Cinnamomum zeylanicum:
Plant Part: bark
Aromatic Qualities: spicy warm aroma
Elemental Nature – Balances Infinity / Air, Water/ Earth
Skin condition – good for normal to dry conditions.
Traditional and well being uses – Cinnamon is spicy and stimulating and it is an
excellent warming oil. It has been used in the past for muscle soreness by mixing it in
massage oils.
Eucalyptus is a well known
decongestant for colds and
is good for muscular stress
Eucalyptus oil
Botanical Latin Name: Eucalyptus globules
Extraction: distillation
Plant Part – Leaves and stems
Aromatic Qualities: powerful camphoraceous note
Elemental Nature – balances Water / Earth
Skin condition – good for oily skin prone to acne and blemishes.
Traditional and well being uses – Eucalyptus is refreshing and stimulating and has
been used as a deodorant and insect repellent. Eucalyptus has been widely used as a
decongestant inhalant for colds. It has also been used to relieve local pain and
discomfort caused by muscular stress and rheumatism. Eucalyptus has been used as a
germicide and antiseptic and is a common flavoring for cough/cold products.
Lavender is the most
versatile of all of the
essential oils
“When in doubt, use
Lavender”
Lavender essential oil
Botanical Latin name: Lavandula angustifolia .
Extraction: distilled
Plant Part: flowering tops
Aromatic Qualities: floral, sweet, slightly herbaceous
Elemental Nature – balances Infinity / Air
Skin condition – Good for all skin conditions. It helps balance the production of sebum
and is considered a rejuvenating agent on the skin. It also has deep cleansing and
balancing qualities that are beneficial for blemished skin.
Traditional and well being uses – Lavender is the most versatile of all essential oils. It
has been used as a treatment for colds and flu through steam inhalation and to relieve
headaches by massaging into the temples. Lavender was used in ancient times during
massage to help soothe muscular conditions such as muscle stress, tension,
rheumatism, sciatica, and arthritis. It is considered an insect repellent and is soothing to
insect bites and stings, as well as sunburn and minor scratches. On emotional and
psychological levels, Lavender was used to calm and balance fluctuating moods and
help anxiety. It is usually described as balancing, calming, and soothing.
Patchouli is excellent for
dry skin and is a calming
aroma that is often
associated with the
1960’s
Patchouli essential oil
Botanical Latin name: Pogostemon cablin
Plant Part: leaves
Aromatic Qualities: earthy, musty, herbaceous, balsamic with wood undertones.
Elemental Nature – balances Infinty -Air
Skin condition – good for dry skin conditions. Especially useful with chapped skin and
dandruff conditions.
Traditional and well-being uses – Patchouli is calming and relaxing was historically
used in skin care to promote the formation of scar tissue. Emotionally, it was used in
small doses to stimulate and in larger doses, to sedate. It was considered a strong,
neural stimulant. In folk medicine, it was considered an effective treatment for edema,
obesity, and water retention.
Peppermint is a
Stimulating and cooling oil
that is good for sore
muscles and sunburn.
Peppermint oil:
Botanical Latin Name: Mentha piperita
Extraction – distillation
Plant Part: fresh partially dried flowering herb
Aromatic Qualities: strong, minty-herbaceous aroma with balsamic undertones
Elemental Nature – Balances Fire, Water /Earth,
Skin condition – good for normal to oily skin conditions. It can be used in facial steams
to cleanse and decongest the skin and is especially beneficial for acne-prone
conditions.
Traditional and well being uses – Peppermint is stimulating and a decongestant. It
was known in ancient times as a soothing remedy for digestive problems, with beneficial
action on the liver, stomach, and intestines. It primary action was antispasmodic and
has been used for hundreds on years to alleviate the symptoms of colds and flu. It has
also been used (diluted) to massage the abdomen to help relieve digestive upsets.
Rose Absolute has
been shown to
increase surface
skin temperature and
surface skin
circulation.
Rose absolute
Botanical Latin name: Rosa damascena
Extraction: solvent extraction
Plant Part: flowers
Aromatic Qualities: deeply floral with woody, sweet, and honey undertones
Elemental Nature – balances Infinity /Air, Fire
Skin Condition – Especially beneficial for dry, sensitive, and maturing skin. Rose has
been used in the past to diminish redness caused by distended capillaries, although
application was over an extended period of time.
Traditional and well being uses – Rose absolute is relaxing and sedating and has
been shown scientifically to increase surface skin temperature and superficial blood
volume (vasodilation). Rose absolute has been used in the past as a gentle
antidepressant and aphrodisiac.
Australian Sandalwood is
calming oil and has been
used in rituals by
aboriginal tribes
Australian Sandalwood oil:
Botanical Latin name: Santalum spicatum.
Plant Part: heartwood
Aromatic Qualities: earthy, woody, sweet, balsamic, powdery finish
Elemental Nature – Balances Infinity / Air, Fire
Skin Condition – Beneficial for many skins types but in particular sensitive and dry
skin. It can also be used for oily blemished skin for its deep cleansing properties.
Traditional and well being uses – Sandalwood is relaxing and sedating and has been
used by some cultures in the past as an anti-depressant. It was also used as a powerful
urinary anti-septic, treating infections and disorders of the urinary tract in addition to
being used for chronic bronchitis.Sandalwood is a soothing after shave.
Tangerine is a citrus oil
that is stimulating and
energizing
Tangerine oil
Botanical Latin Name Citrus tangerina
Extraction: expression
Plant Part: – fruit peel
Aromatic Qualities: sweet, citrus aroma with fruity undertones
Elemental Nature – balances Water / Earth, Infinity / Air
Skin Condition – good for normal to oily skin conditions.
Traditional and well being uses – Tangerine is uplifting, energizing, and awakening.
Tea Tree has been
used to treat burns and
wounds and is active
against fungi, bacteria,
and viruses
Tea Tree Oil:
Botanical Latin Name: melaleuca alternifolia:
Extraction – distillation
Plant Part – leaves and stems
Aromatic Qualities: warm, spicy strongly terpenic aroma reminiscent of cardamom and
nutmeg
Elemental Nature – balances Water / Earth
Skin Condition – excellent for oily, blemished and acne conditions.
Traditional and well being uses – Tea Tree is a stimulating oil and is active against all
3 categories of infectious organisms: bacteria, fungi, and viruses. In the Far East, it was
used for colds, cold sores, acne, fungal infections, sinus problems, and as an
anaesthetic and deodorant. The aboriginal people of Australia have used Tea Tee to
treat wounds and burns. Tea Tree has also been used over the years to treat boils, skin
infections, and sore throats.
Vanilla absolute is a
calming aroma and is
considered an
aphrodisiac
Vanilla Absolute
Botanical Latin Name: Vanilla planifolia
Extraction – solvent extraction
Plant Part – cured, dried beans
Aromatic Qualities: rich, sweet, balsamic aroma
Elemental Nature – balances Infinity / Air
Skin condition – Good for all skin types but in particular normal to dry skin.
Traditional and well being uses – Vanilla is calming, grounding, and balancing and
has mostly been used as ingredient in perfumes. It is considered an aphrodisiac and
was used by the Aztecs and Toltecs to strengthen the heart, eliminate tiredness, and
protect against fever.
Ylang Ylang is the poor
man’s jasmine and
helps to balance the
body’s sebum action
Ylang Ylang oil
Botanical Latin Name: Cananga odorata
Extraction: distillation
Plant Part - flowers
Aromatic Qualities: Intensely sweet, floral aroma with balsamic and woody
undertones.
Elemental Nature – balances Fire
Skin condition – Can be used for sensitive, dry and oily skin. It is thought to be
effective in balancing sebum action.
Traditional and well being uses – Ylang Ylang is relaxing and has been used as a
sedative and an aphrodisiac. It is thought to help one achieve self-confidence and has
been used as a hair tonic. As it contains some of the same plant chemicals as jasmine,
it is known as the “poor man’s jasmine”
The Aromaology II
workshops focuses on the
use of Aveda’s Pure
Essences
.
Completion of class: Summarize the class. Mention and show up the Pure Essences kit
and that the 2nd level of Aromaology education focuses on the Pure Essences which are
100% undiluted essential oils that are professional only products. This class is best for
spa therapists whether massage therapists, estheticians, nail technicians, though
hairdressers are also welcome to attend. Page 63 in the book
Write down 2 things that
you learned today that
you will use in your work
with Aveda
.
Have the participants write down 2 “ahas” they had today. How will they use this new
information in their work with Aveda?
Wrap up with any final questions