No. 10 - Capsule

Transcription

No. 10 - Capsule
capsuleshow.com
SUMMER
2014
#capsuleshow
@capsuleshow
N10
PRE-NORMCORE
Let’s Go to the Mall!
SHOPPING LIST
Why THE place to chill as a teen is suddenly
cool again. By Diana Tsui
THE MALL
POST-NORMCORE
THE MALL !!!
DANIELLE
GRECO
What’s awesome about the Internet
and clothing right now?
It's really an amazing time for emerging designers. I feel like V Files Made
Fashion, which is our crowd-sourced
fashion show, is the best place to get
discovered today. The people who
enter are so amazingly talented and
original.
What do you predict will be hot for
SS15 womenswear?
I hope it’s along the same lines of
SS15 Men’s. I am obsessed with the
takeover of silk short sleeve button downs. I want women's to hit
that whole 90s/ska/San Diego/silk
buttons/matching silk boxer short/
white sneaks moment. LOL.
Northeast Philly native Danielle
Greco has got it going on. And
by “it” we mean a gig as the retail
manager for the white hot
V FILES store and her very own cult
TV show “Danielle Live,” where
she shows off/celebrates/big ups/
gets weird with the store’s merch
before a semi-live audience. We
recently caught up with the style
maven to talk clothes, gold and
90's ska fashions.
Want more?
Keep up with Danielle
@thugsbunnny.
What would you never leave your
house without?
I am an accessories fanatic. Right
now I have 6 gold rings, 2 gold
chains, a Moschino Spongebob
wallet, a set of nails and of course
our FW14 VFiles Sport Plus Coaches’
Jacket.
How would describe your personal
style/ look?
My personal style was recently described as "Runaway Teen," which I
loved. I'm really into wearing vintage
metal T-shirts as dresses and very
oversized "cozyboi" pieces. I like to
pair that with a ton of gold jewelry so
I guess I'm like a rocker chola. Earlier this year New York Magazine
published a piece about the rise of
normcore, which is best described
as the “non style” of folks from the
pre-blog/professional tastemaker
era. You know, mall shoppers. Think
white sneakers, Birkenstocks with
socks, Patagonia fleeces, and logo
sweatshirts from the nineties. It was
visually arresting, if only because
most people found it ugly. But it also
touched on the cyclical nature of
trends – everything you loved from
20 years ago is back.
Getting your eyes to adjust to pieces
you used to find totally uncool is a
weird learning curve. You think back
to the tragic outfits straight out of
your ironic #tbt Instagrams. In my
case it was black leggings with an
oversized sweatshirt (complete with
puffy paint) and matching hair tie.
But one look at @scrunchiesofinstagram with its ever growing following,
and suddenly you find yourself wanting to add a giant red bow to your
top knot.
Raiding the nostalgia vault doesn’t
seem to be ending any time soon.
Just one look at how many people
share Buzzfeed’s lists can attest to
that fact. What’s next? I’m hoping
and praying it’ll be the JNCO jean.
This time around hopefully with a
slimmer leg that doesn’t fit an entire
frozen turkey.
Should you doubt this is all happening, a glance at the local coffee shop
the other morning was like a parade
of 90s-era fashion. In the span of
twenty minutes, three separate
women walked in. The first had long
dark hair pulled up in a topknot complete with navy scrunchy. The second
wore denim shortalls with a dainty
septum piercing and white socks
paired with athletic foam flatform
sandals. To round it out, the last was
in a vintage bucket hat, cropped
sweater and high-waisted bootcut
trousers. And what could I say? They
all looked good enough to make me
consider ordering a tube of Revlon’s
Toast of New York for a second go.
Diana Tsui is a freelance writer and
market editor who has worked for
New York Magazine, InStyle and more.
Follow her @chupsterette.
Kristen Lee Cole
Creative Director & Head Buyer,
tenoversix, Los Angeles
We always buy in a very swift and
organic manner. It always comes
together fast and furious as we are
seeing everything. Our buys are
comprised of what we are ourselves
most looking forward to wearing. I'm
always pleasantly surprised by how
much of the new season I NEED. I
love the little creative pockets in a
lot of cities- large and small. That's
where I actually find inspiration and
some more esoteric and eclectic
takes on current fashion.
GO
THERE!
Our designers recommend their
favorite places in NY and Paris!
Noriko Kasai
Herbert Hofmann
Jen Rispoli
PARIS
Founder, KAVUT, Toronto
At KAVUT, we don't look for trends
too much and we encourage clients
to embrace their individual style.
That being said, I do see our customers enjoying more unconventional
classic fine jewelry, elegant but
fierce, fine but bold, classy yet edgy.
I definitely see more customers getting into fierce yet timeless elegant
contemporary fine jewelry. People
are getting tired of jewelry you toss
after a season. The beauty of jewelry
is that you live with it, gain memories
with it and it becomes a part of you.
Line Dry
Empire Diner is a classic New York
landmark (featured in the opening
scene of Woody Allen’s Manhattan),
and also my husband’s refuge on
many a late night. Recently it has
re-opened as a sophisticated diner.
I love that they still serve classic diner food, but with a high-end touch.
Everything I’ve eaten there has been
amazingly delicious.
Jessica Kelley
NEW YORK
Katie King
Brooklyn Tailors
We are based in Williamsburg, so
we really enjoy our neighborhood
joints: oysters and drinks at Marlow
and Sons, burgers at Diner and
everything at Saltie!
Vy Nguyen
Lolli Swim
I love going to EATALY in NYC.
It’s such a fun foodie playground.
Chelsea Market is amazing to
get lost in. I love Brooklyn Bowl, too!
Great music, bowling and they
have those tasty Blue Ribbon
Chicken Wings!
Boo Choi
CNKOH
Main St. Park in Dumbo. You can see
the gorgeous scenery of Lower Manhattan, especially with sunset.
Cast & Combed
I love spending the morning chasing
the horizon down endless city blocks,
doing some midday hunting at The
Brooklyn Flea, caffeinating at Stumptown and then getting a glorious
dinner at Dimes.
Britt Howard
Portland Garment Factory
House Line
In NY, I love wandering the Lehmann Maupin Gallery. I have always
found an interesting, unique show
when I visit. I always go for wine with
my brother at The Ten Bells. Lovely
Day in Nolita is a sweet spot too
and I love the wall paper there! In
Williamsburg I like St. Mazie, go in
the basement and the bathrooms
because they are quite special!
Buyer/Creative Director, Voo Berlin
Designers are doing a great job right
now. We see a lot of emerging young
brands who’ve got their own style and
also get the balance between showpieces and accessible styles. This
season I’m looking for more sandals,
more lux-sports, more comfortable styles and monochrome outfits!
CMMN Sweden, Libertine Libertine
and Acne Studios are very exciting!
I’m a huge fan of Berlin style right
now. Berliners combine high fashion
with classics and sportswear in a way
that I haven’t seen elsewhere.
Alissia Melka-Teichroew
byAMT x Mimot Studio
One of my favourite places there
to have Moroccan tea is Café de la
Mosquée de Paris, which is right next
to Le Jardin des Plantes and always
beautiful as well.
StEphanie D'heygere
Been by D'heygere
Anahi is a small, charming Argentinean restaurant with the best meat
in town.
Jen Rispoli
Line Dry
In Paris, I love Chez Janou.
The homemade chocolate mousse
served straight from the mixing
bowl is divine.
Diana SaldaNa
Royal Caballito
For some greenery, my favorite is
the Luxembourg Gardens. It hasn’t
changed a bit since Brassai photographed it! Dehillerin, a 200-year-old
professional kitchenware shop by Les
Halles, has kept its decoration as it
was. It’s a monument in itself, with its
floor to ceiling cooking utensils it has
the most amazing copper bowls
to admire!
Alexandra Risch
Jr. Trendsetter/Fashion forecaster,
Galeries Lafayette
I am actually looking for some street &
sporty looks: on the first hand, an emergent trend totally in black, with a little
touch of white, that takes its inspirations
from sportswear (large t-shirts, jersey
shorts, jogging pants) but in a modern
way. It’s a strong trend that I like to call
“Dark street,” and that I’ve currently seen
during different shows. On the second
hand, the way that designers use technical and sporty fabrics to create new silhouettes. I also like the emergence of all
the “acid pastel” colors in womenswear:
wearing bright colors definitely launches
the new summer season!
Malorie Urbanovitch
Malorie Urbanovitch
The Palais de Tokyo is my favorite
gallery in Paris. They have a beautiful
terrace in the back with great coffee.
I bought a pair of vintage YSL sunglasses in the gift shop a few years
ago that I'll never forgive myself
for losing!
NEW BRANDS AT CAPSULE
SPRING/SUMMER 2015
1
2
3
4
11
12
13
5
6
9
10
15
16
18
7
8
1. byAMT x Mimot Studio
See them in: New York
byAMT features American-made totes and bags
that highlight excellent design and affordability.
Don’t miss their top-notch beach totes and
cool planters.
2. Outdoor Voices
See them in: Las Vegas, New York
Outdoor Voices brings an artful aesthetic-driven
perspective to active wear and approaches
the outdoor lifestyle with moderation, ease
and humor.
3. Mudlark & Co
See them in: Paris
Born and manufactured in England, Mudlark make
beautifully crafted leather sandals built to last
and delight. 4. Been by D'heygere
See them in: Paris
The Belgian collection designed by Margiela
designer Stéphanie D'Heygere offers witty,
hyper-realistic prints on leggings, tees
and swimwear.
14
17
5. DORIS Q
See them in: New York
Cutting edge, structural silhouettes adorned
with eye popping digital prints feature heavily
in Doris Q’s latest SS15 collection.
6. N/A/M
See them in: New York
In addition to being designer Kiyeon Nam’s last
name, the acronym stands for the three most
important elements in the collection: Nature, Art,
and Music. Don’t miss their ottoman mesh dress.
7. Brooklyn Tailors
9. Percy Lau Studio
13. Cast & Combed
10. SKINWARE
14. Foley and Keane
See them in: Paris
Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design
alum Percy Lau has built up her own philosophy:
instead of designing jewelry, she calls her works
re-creations based on nature.
See them in: New York
Designed in Japan and made with Swiss organic
cottons, Skinware is super cute lingerie and easy
loungewear made from 100% organic cottons and
botanical dyes.
See them in: New York
Cast & Combed is a resin jewelry line excited by
light and shape, weight and weightlessness, color
and form. Created & designed by Jessica Kelley in
Los Angeles, California.
See them in: New York
Foley & Keane is a progressive Australian based
label with a classic yet modern sensibility. It is
distinguished by a global & eclectic aesthetic
directly derived from the person style of American
Designer Devon Keane.
See them in: New York
Traditional hand-tailoring with an accessible,
modern American aesthetic. Don’t miss the over
dyed linen popover shirt-dress that has been
screen printed and then washed for a subtle sun-faded print effect. 11. Lolli Swim
See them in: New York
Made in Southern California, this sun soaked
brand offers fun, flirty, feminine swimwear styles.
Check out their high-waisted color block swimmie
set, new for SS15.
15. PINC by Ana Tichy
8. Cleobella
12. Line Dry
16. W by WenJun
See them in: New York
Inspired by the beautiful tiles, hand tooled metal
lamps and Berber rugs found while wandering
through the street markets of Marrakesh,
Cleobella’s latest collection is a must see.
See them in: New York
Sophistication meets versatility with Line Dry’s
latest. Check out the Marcella, a boyfriend tunic
shirt with geometric piecing that can be worn as a
dress, shirt, or beach cover-up.
See them in: Paris
Pinc By Ana Tichy’s main inspiration comes from
the feeling of lying under a fig tree on a hot summer afternoon next to the Mediterranean Sea.
See them in: Paris
In this collection, candy grows on trees in a series
of amazing prints on high quality Japanese fabrics.
The key silhouette in the SS15 collection are the
geometrical shaped sleeves and bare midriffs.
17. Carnet du Style
See them in: New York
Inspired by men's tailoring, Carnet du Style
offers edgy looks that maintain a polished,
feminine sophistication.
18. Pfeiffer
See them in: New York
Pfeiffer is a three part collective drawn together
by a shared love of style and the urge to break
away from the predictable. Luxe, slinky trophy
pieces are the core of the brand’s vision.
19. Royal Caballito
See them in: New York
The collections by Royal Caballito are made with
the utmost care using only high quality natural
fabrics. Each piece is produced in small artisan
workshops in Spain with the aspiration to remain
sustainable and timeless.
19
KALEN HOLLOMON: THE INTERVIEW
FOLLOW
@theprimaryessentials
One of my all time favorite shops,
on Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn.
A mix of gorgeous home goods
and inspiration.
@bfgf
Super cool designer who does
embroidery and textiles. I have one
of their blankets on my couch always.
“Even taking the time and making something just for Instagram,
it seemed so self-indulgent and kind of bullshit.”
@clamlab
My favorite ceramicist in New York.
@jessicadimmock
Super badass globe trotting photojournalist.
Brooklyn-based ceramicist Helen
Levi (@helen_levi) is an Instagram
darling. With over 40K followers,
she’s used the medium to build her
business, make new friends, and
connect with her clients worldwide
in a unfiltered (haha), personal way.
She also knows a ton of awesome
‘grammers worth your follow right
now. Here are her recommendations. Connect and be delighted.
@barrett_h
I never get sick of my friend
Barrett on my feed. Gorgeous
color everytime.
@oldfashioned
Ceramicist extraordinaire who also
has the best captions.
@individualmedleystore
My West Coast home/store. Their
feed is so dreamy and their male
model of choice is identical to
Ryan Gosling.
@yossyarefi
The ONLY food based feed I follow
and use recipes from.
@fvonf
Best inspirational blog, euro style.
@drewinnis
Super talented photographer and
filmmaker who gets the moody image
but never overdoes it.
BY MINYA QUIRK
Kalen Hollomon’s Instagram work
is so compelling that suddenly the
often repetitive and snoozy social
media image feed feels brand new.
The New York city-based artist posts
daily doses of his singular vision, in
the form of collaged works and cut
out images morphed with his iPhone
surroundings. The results are oft
imitated but never duplicated. Hollomon completed an Instagram project for Vogue for the A/W 15 show
season that exhibited his forced
perspective prowess, utilizing runway images and archival imagery
from the fashion bible remixed into
his every day surroundings. That
exposure and a flurry of other fashioncentric projects have earned him
more than 50k Instagram followers,
which include admirers like fellow
artists, art directors, models and
fashion folk who can’t get enough
of Hollomon’s visual commentary on
object, desire, commodity, sex and
so much more. If you’re not following him, do so immediately:
@kalen_hollomon.
Hollomon created some beautiful
pieces for Capsule’s SS15 season and
will produce interactive installations
at Capsule’s New York Men’s and
Las Vegas editions. Here, he answers
a few questions about romance
and process:
What kind of art were you making
pre-NY?
When I was in LA, I was doing larger
stuff, larger oil paintings and sculptures. When I moved here I started
to do more photography and collage.
Ok, so let’s talk about a couple
of the terms that define your art. Shadows. Secrets. Um, what else…
romance, spontaneity.
Romance. Period.
What kinds of images resonate with
you, when you’re approaching collage?
I’m really visual. I’m looking for a
connection. Something that speaks
to me. Like when you make eye contact with someone and you get this
connection. That goes back to the
romance of it. I like older stuff and
mixing it with new stuff. Contradictions. Something bizarre with something more normal. Something sexual against a really sanitized image.
How did you start this iPhone
photography collage work?
I took a cut out of the bottom half of
a man, lying down naked. And I put
it on a friend at the park, a girl. And
then I was also drawing things on
business cards and taking pictures.
It was just that I didn’t have content
or materials really, to make whatever
I wanted at home. So I should just
use whatever’s out in the world to
make a collage, an image. That was
three years ago. Pre-Instagram.
So now you just walk around with
little people cut out in your bag?
I carry cut outs with me, I always
have a couple, or a razorblade. I go
outside and I look for the right opportunity. It usually comes into my
life, the right person…I try to find a
way to make the image interact with
the person or the background,
rather than just place it.
Which of the guerilla style KH
Instagram posts is your favorite?
There’s one where I put a Celine shirt
on a guy on the train. I like the woman
holding the baby. There’s one of my
friend Jade looking over her shoulder
all sexy with a hairyman’s butt. That
one was staged and I thought it
was good. The ones with handbags.
But people love the butts.
THE NEW WE ARE THE MARKET
FOLLOW US
Kalen's Favorite
Instagram FEEDS:
Daniel Arnold
instagram.com/arnold_daniel
@arnold_daniel
James Ferrell
instagram.com/she_skin
@she_skin
Yuki James
instagram.com/yukijames
@yukijames
Mae Elvis Kaufman
instagram.com/maeelvis
@maeelvis
Doug Rickard
instagram.com/dougrickard
@dougrickard
We started We Are the Market as an
industry blog way back before
#menswear was a thing, before the
explosion of fashion as we know it
existed online. Yes, it was 2006. Practically a lifetime ago in Internet Years.
Now, we’ve redesigned the site, and
we’d love to invite you to present your
news, stories and products to the
world via our new content network.
latest lookbook shoot;
We Are The Market rounds it all up
and presents it to the world under
one banner.
We Are the Market 2.0 is all about
news – ours and yours. We’ve created
a platform where every designer in
our community as well as our
favorite retailers and industry insiders
can post their own content on the We
Are The Market portal. From just-hitthe-shelf products in-store to collaborations, to personal projects or
a behind the scenes report from the
To become a contributor and start
sharing your news with our friends,
email us at:
[email protected]
www.wearethemarket.com
#capsuleshow
@capsuleshow
facebook.com/capsuleshow
Visit We Are the Market regularly to
keep up with all the happenings in
the Capsule community. And check
out our updated Global Shopping
Guide and Showroom Listings.
Public Relations, Creative Services,
Content Creation, Digital Marketing,
Brand Consulting, Representation.
bpmw-agency.com
BPMW
80 8th Ave #202
New York, NY 10011
Basketball City
299 South St (at Montgomery St), 10002
Paris Women’s Sept 26-28
Tapis Rouge
67 rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, 75010
Register to attend at
capsuleshow.com
Artwork by Kalen Hollomon
S
S
1
5
New York Women’s Sept 12-14