In-boom furlers installation manual

MK 2R
08/07/13 P140GB13 C
PROFURL IN-BOOM REEFING SYSTEM
MK 2 R
SERIAL NUMBER :.........................................................................................
INSTALLATION
MANUAL
IMPORTANT NOTICE TO RIGGERS :
PLEASE GIVE THIS MANUAL TO THE BOAT OWNER AND ASK HIM
(HER) TO CAREFULLY READ IT BEFORE USING THE SYSTEM.
RECEIPT OF GOODS
All goods must be checked on delivery and the Buyer should claim from the carrier
verbally within three days in the event of loss or damage, and in writing within seven
days.
ZA pornichet Atlantique
16 avenue du Gulf Stream
44380 pornichet
www.profurl.com
tel +33 251 760 035
fax +33 240 014 043
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Congratulations for the purchase of your PROFURL in-boom reefing furling system.
Please read carefully this manual. It will give you to all information for fitting and
using your system in order to give you many years of dependable service.
IMPORTANT WARNING FOR USING
YOUR SYSTEM :
!
The PROFURL boom is obviously heavier than your conventional boom.
Do not make uncontrolled gibing, specially with strong wind as you
could permanently damage your system.
Reminder to gibe :
1 - take in or winch your main traveller and main sheet
2 - turn your boat to gibe
3 - gradually release your main traveller and main sheet.
You can even better fit a tackle as boom preventer (see drawing).
You can also fit a boom brake, but you must not forget to completely
release it each time you want to operate your system.
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CONTENTS
Page 2
Page 3
Page 4
Page 5
Page 6
Pages 6/7
Page 7
Pages 7/8
Page 8
Page 9
Page 10
Pages 10/11
Page 11
Page 12
Pages 12/13
Page 13/14
Page 14
Pages 14/15
Page 15
Page 16
Pages 26+
Important warning to use your system
Preliminary cautions
General description
Tools needed for fitting
Unfitting the hardware from the mast
Determining the height of the gooseneck
Fitting the slide screws in the mast track.
Fitting the gooseneck.
Assembling the luff profiles.
Fitting the articulation brackets onto the mast / the sheave
box. Measuring and fitting the upper luff profile.
Fitting the upper luff profile onto the sheave box.
Cutting the boom to length
Cutting the mandrel to length. Fitting the mandrel onto the
boom.
Fitting the boom onto the gooseneck.
Fitting the boomvang hound onto the mast.
Adjusting the position of mainsheet bails.
Installation of the control lines to the cockpit
Fitting the mainsail
Feeder adjustment.
Adjustment of the boom angle to the mast.
Using the system.
Limits for using the system
Warranty conditions - Warranty form
Spare parts
Mainsail design specifications
PRELIMINARY CAUTIONS
The PROFURL in-boom mainsail reefing system is not designed to be installed on
wooden masts, or aluminium masts with track added with screws, rivets, glue or any
similar assembly. Fitting on a carbon mast is not recommended an requires special
skills. Please contact us.
Please check that there is no sign of severe corrosion on the mast which would
compromise the strength of the assembly.
The person in charge with fitting will be fully responsible for installation and
adaptation on board according to the specifications shown in this manual.
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I - GENERAL DESCRIPTION
Note : names in bold refer to parts identified on the exploded view
The PROFURL in-boom furling system includes :
1. One set of luff profiles (1 and 2) articulated on the aft face of the mast .
There are 2 different kinds of luff profiles : one 0.60 m long feeder profile (1) on
which the feeder (3) is attached, and several 2 meters long normal luff profiles
(2) depending on the mainsail’s luff length. One of these 2 meters long normal
luff profiles (2) will be re-cut to length at its upper end to match the expected luff
length for the boat. The different luff profiles (1 et 2) are connected to each other
by mean of connectors/articulations (4), which are connected to articulation
brackets (5) attached on the aft face of the mast.
CAUTION : the articulation brackets (5) have a stainless steel pin. Check the
difference with end brackets (6), which have Nylon flanges.
2. Articulation brackets (5) attached to the mast with 2 slide screws (7) slipped in
the mast luff track. Every slide screw (7) has a thread and a flat end going
through a hole of the articulation brackets (5). The thread of the slide screws
(7) receives a locknut (8) for attachment.
3. Connectors/articulations (4) also used to connect the different luff profiles (1
and 2), held by set screws (9). The lower end of the 0.60m long feeder profile
(1) will be connected on the gooseneck articulation (10), thus allowing the luff
profiles (1 and 2) to rotate together with the boom.
4. A sheave box (11) through which the original mainsail halyard is passing. The
sheave box (11) will be fit at the top of the luff profiles (1 and 2). It is assembled
on the end brackets [2 times (6)], themselves being attached by mean of slide
screws (7) and locknuts (8).
5. A gooseneck (12a) and (12b) fit on the mast with 4 slide screws (7), and 4
gooseneck plates (13) cambered at the mast shape before fitting, and which will
be riveted onto the mast with the conical head pop rivets (14) supplied.
6. A boom profile(15) which has been delivered upon request in 4 or 5 meters. It will
probably have to be re-cut to length when fitting to match the expected boom
length.
7. A mandrel (16) which turns on bearings (17 and 18) fit on a bearing holder (19)
at the rear end of the boom, and on the drum bearing holder (21) front, turning
around a pin inserted in each of the boom end fittings (22 and 23). When recutting the boom profile (15) to length, the mandrel (16) should also be re-cut.
8. A drum boom end fitting (22). It includes the drum (21) fit onto the mandrel
(16): the drum being loaded with the furling line supplied, by pulling on the furling
line and releasing the mainsail halyard it will rotate the mandrel, which will furl the
sail.
9. 1 reinforced adjustable mainsheet bail (26) and 2 adjustable mainsheet bails
(25).
10. A special boomvang (27). It is attached :
- onto the mast by mean of a boomvang attachment, including an gooseneck (12)
attached onto the mast with 2 slide screws (7) locknuts (8) and 2 gooseneck
plates (13) which will be riveted on the mast with pop rivets (14) with conical head
supplied. The boomvang lower end will be attached onto an articulation eye (49)
rotating in the boomvang gooseneck.
- onto the boom with a boomvang hound (28).
11. A ball bearing block (35) to lead the furling line (51) to the cockpit.
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TOOLS NEEDED FOR FITTING
In all cases of fitting
 A tape line
 An electric drill
 A set of drills
 A hack saw with a (new) blade with small teeth
 A file
 A pencil
 A plastic hammer
 A 13 mm pipe-wrench
 A 22 mm pipe-wrench
 A dynamometrical wrench (1daN/m)
 1 set of Allen wrenches (supplied)
 2 clamps with opening 300 mm
 Universal pliers
 A cutter blade (with new blades)
 A large sheet of paper with corners perfectly at 90° and adhesive tape
 Several small plywood or rubber shims.
 A pop rivet gun for 5 mm stainless steel rivets.
 A ratchet tie down strap more than twice the boom length.

Note : the plates to fit the gooseneck and boomvang attachment are 8 mm thick and
made out of aluminium. A convenient hydraulic or mechanical press should be used
to bend them at the mast shape, fitting them on the mast with the clamps.
If the fitting is made on a standing mast
 A Boson’s chair
 Some short ropes of 8 or 10 mm diameter.
II - PREPARATION
II.1 - UNFITTING THE HARDWARE FROM THE MAST
II 1 a - Dismantle the original gooseneck from the mast, as well as cleats, winches
and winches brackets, as well as any piece of equipment which would interfere with
the fitting of the new gooseneck and with the ability for the forward boom end fitting
to rotate when the boom should swing from one side to the other. Please see § III 1
b and drawing 1 for dimensions of the new gooseneck in relation with mark « C » on
the mast.
II 1 b - The original boomvang attachment should not be used, as the axis of rotation
of the boom and of the new gooseneck need to be in line, which would never be the
case with the original boomvang attachment.
II 1 c - Dismantle the original feeder (if any) at the mast track entrance.
II 1 d -Check that the slide screws (7) supplied have suitable dimensions for the mast
track. If not, their width should be modified (turned, machined, grinned, filed)
accordingly.
SLIDE SCREWS
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III - INSTALLATION
III 1 - DETERMINING THE HEIGHT OF THE GOOSENECK
III 1 a -To avoid any potential conflict between the boom and the cabin top, a bimini,
a lifeline or any other piece of equipment, please accurately mark the level of the
lower edge of the original boom. Please see drawing 1.
III 1 b - Check that the boomvang delivered with your system will make once installed
an angle of minimum 30° with the mast and the boom. Should it not be the case, the
position of the new gooseneck must be raised higher on the mast in order to obtain
at least this angle of 30°.
Information: pin to pin boomvang length : 1550 mm open / 1405 mm closed
III 1 c - Draw a line « C » on the mast at the level of the lower edge of the original
boom. See drawing 1.
III 1 d - Draw a line « B »on the mast at 52 mm (2 1/16’’) under line « C ».The line
« B » will correspond to the level of the lower edge of the lower gooseneck plates
(13) once fit on the mast. Please see drawing 1 / right.
Drawing 1
III 2 - FITTING THE SLIDE SCREWS INTO THE MAST TRACK
III 2 a - Insert the head of the slide screws (7) into the mast track. The number of
slide screws you need to insert depends on the number of articulation brackets :
A - 2 slide screws are needed for the boomvang attachment. Insert these slide
screws down to the mast foot to fit the boomvang attachment later on. (§ III
11, and drawing 13).
B - Slide 4 slide screws (7) into the mast track for the upper end brackets (6).
C - Slide as many times 2 slide screws (7) into the mast track as the quantity
of articulation brackets (5) to be fit. Please see drawing 5.
III 2 b - Move the stacked slide screws mentioned in B and C upwards on the mast
above the mast track opening, and temporarily hold them with adhesive tape to
prevent them from slipping out of the track.
III 2 c - Slide 4 extra slide screws (7) into the mast track for fitting both goosenecks
fittings (12a and 12b).
III 3 - FITTING THE DOUBLE GOOSENECK
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III 3 a - Fit the lower gooseneck (12a) at the convenient height (§ III 1) with the two
corresponding slide screws (see above § III 2 c) and corresponding locknuts (8).
Tightening torque must be 1 to 1.5 daN/m.
III 3 b - Draw lead lines for drilling on the side plates (13). Would the sideplates be
too long, they can be re-cut if necessary, keeping in mind too much length is always
better than too little. Press the side plates on the mast with clamps ( please protect
the plates with convenient means). Drill at Ø 5 mm and machine holes so that the
conical heads of the pop rivets (14) will be flush with the surface of the side plates .
There should have at least 12 pop rivets (14) on the mast for each side plate (13).
III 3 c – Pop rivet the sideplates onto the gooseneck.
III 3 d - Fit the gooseneck articulation (10) onto the gooseneck (12a) and use it to
determine the position of the upper gooseneck (12b) as per drawing 2 & 9.
III 3 e – Fit the side plates with the same procedure as the one used for the upper
gooseneck.
Drawing 2
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III 4 - ASSEMBLING THE LUFF PROFILES
Fitting at this stage will be easier flat on the ground.
III 4 a - Fit the luff profiles (1 & 2) together starting with the feeder profile (1) where
the feeder (3) is attached to. The bottom end of this feeder profile can be identified
by the luff track which has been machined off . Please see drawing 3.
III 4 b - Completely insert a connector/articulation (4) at the upper end of the feeder
profile (1) so that the head of the Nylon bushing (55) is towards the lower end of the
feeder profile. Please see drawing 3.
Drawing 3
III 4 c - Fit and tighten the set screws (9) at the upper end of the feeder profile.
III 4 d - Fit a 2 meter long normal luff profile (2) onto the connector/articulation (4)
which has been fit as above.
Caution :check again that the collars of the Nylon bushings (55) of the
connectors/articulations (4) are turned towards the lower end of the luff profiles
column.
III 4 e - Fit and tighten the set screws (9) onto the luff profiles. Fit all the luff profiles
(2) except the last 2 meter normal profile with the same procedure. Please see
drawing 8.
III 4 f -Hoist the above luff profiles column from the aft side of the mast by preferably
using the existing topping lift.
Caution: during hoisting check that the luff profiles are kept as straight as possible by
pulling from the bottom end of the luff profiles.
III 4 g - Completely insert the lower end of the feeder profile (1) into the striped
aluminium connector of the gooseneck articulation (10) . Please see drawing 4.
III 4 h - Climb the mast taking with you :
 the 2 end brackets (6). Please see drawing 6
 all the articulation brackets (5). Please see drawing 5.
 the sheave box (11) Please see drawing 5.
 all the slide screws (7) to be slipped up in the mast track, and
locknuts (8). Leave two slide screws stacked at the mast foot.
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III 5 - FITTING THE ARTICULATIONS BRACKETS TO THE MAST
III 5 a - Consider the 2 lower slide screws (7) stacked above mast track entrance.
III 5 b - Fit an articulation bracket (5) onto these slide screws with the stainless steel
pin (21) pointing upwards. Please see drawing 5. Completely insert the stainless
steel pin into the Nylon bushing (55) of the connector/articulation.
III 5 c - Fit the locknuts (8) onto the thread of the slide screws (7). Tightening
torque should be 1 to 1,5 daN/m.
Caution : during fitting the articulation brackets (5) onto the connector/articulations
(4), permanently check that the feeder profile is indeed fully inserted into the
gooseneck articulation (10).
III 5 d - Continue fitting all articulation brackets (4) with the same procedure.
Drawing 5
III 6 - FITTING THE SHEAVE BOX
III 6 a - Slide up in the mast track the 4 remaining slide screws (7).
III 6 b - Temporarily fit the 2 end brackets (6) so that the rear upper end of the
sheave box (11) leaves a minimum clearance of 20 mm with the backstay(s). Please
see drawings 6 & 7.
Drawing 6
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III 6 c - Draw an « A »line on the mast corresponding to the position shown on
drawing 7. Make sure you leave the aft upper corner of the sheave box clear from
the backstay(s) as per drawing 7.
Drawing 7
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III 7 - MEASURING AND FITTING THE UPPER (CUT) LUFF PROFILE
III 7 a - Please see drawing 8. Accurately measure the length “A” to “D”.
III 7 b - Mark the “A” to “D” length on the remaining luff profile (2) and cut it at this
exact length. File smooth the cut edge .
III 7 c - Fit without tightening the 2 set screws (9) on the threads located at the
opposite side of the cut end.
III 7 d - Hoist the cut luff profile (2).
Drawing 8
III 8 - FITTING THE UPPER (CUT) LUFF PROFILE ONTO THE SHEAVE BOX
III 8 a - Slightly ease the 4 slide screws (7) which hold the upper end brackets (6)
and remove the sheave box (11).
III 8 b - Completely insert the striped aluminium bar of the sheave box (11) into the
cut end of the luff profile (2).
III 8 c - Insert the bottom end of the luff profile (2) into the uppermost
connector/articulation (4).
III 8 d - Fit again the sheave box (11) onto/between both end brackets (6) and fasten
the 4 slides screws (7) to permanently secure this assembly.
III 8 e - Tighten the set screws (9) at the bottom end of the cut luff profile (2).
III 8 f - Follow the path for the mainsail halyard as shown on drawing 7.
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III 9 - CUTTING THE BOOM PROFILE AND THE MANDREL TO LENGTH
III 9 a -HOW TO CALCULATE THE LENGTH OF THE BOOM PROFILE.
Case # 1:
The PROFURL boom overall length should be the same as the one of
the original boom (in most cases).
Case # 2:
The PROFURL boom being generally delivered in over-length, the
opportunity may be taken to make the boom longer. Caution : changing
the boom length could affect the balance at the helm when sailing
under sails. In this case check that the aft end of the boom cannot
touch the backstay or any other piece of hardware on board.
In both cases please refer to drawing 9 for dimensions.
Drawing 9
The PROFURL in-boom reefing system is delivered pre-assembled and in overlength. The boom profile (15) and the mandrel (16) will probably have to be re-cut to
length to match the boat’s requirements when fitting the system.
CAUTION : should the complete length of the boom profile be used,
the rear boom end fitting is just temporarily attached to the boom
profile for shipping. Please follow the fitting procedure from § III 9 c 7
and on just the same as if the boom profile had been re-cut.
III 9 a 1 - To cut the boom profile (15) and the mandrel (16) to length, first dismantle
the rear boom end fitting (23) from the boom profile and pull out the mandrel (16)
from the boom profile.
Caution : during dismantling, the mandrel (16) will not be held any more. Please
keep control about the mandrel potentially falling down when pulled backwards. Also
mind not to lose the washer (20) located forward of the drum (24) .
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III 9 a 2 - To re-cut the boom profile (15) to length, and in order to make sure that the
cut section is accurately perpendicular to the profile, wrap a sheet of paper or mylar
(with accurate right angle corners) so that the edges are in perfect line, and attach it
with adhesive tape. Please see drawing 10. Draw a line on the boom profile,
following the edge of the sheet where the boom profile will be cut.
III 9 a 3 - Cut the boom profile according to the line and file cut edge smooth.
Drawing 10
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III 9 b -CUTTING THE MANDREL TO LENGTH
The mandrel (16) should be re-cut of exactly the same length of the one having been
cut off from the boom profile.
 Example: the boom had been re-cut by 435 mm; mandrel should also be re-cut by 435 mm.
III 9 b 1 – Remove the bearing holder (19) + bearing (18) assembly from the rear
end of the mandrel (16).
III 9 b 2 - Cut the mandrel (16) at rear end with the same method as the one having
been used for cutting the boom profile (15), same as § III 9 a 2. File smooth the rear
(cut) end of the mandrel and foot tracks ends.
Caution : the forward (drum) end of the mandrel (16) must not be cut !
III 9 b 3 - Fit again the bearing (17) and bearing holder (19) into the cut/rear end of the
mandrel. Tap at M8 (8mm) at opposite side from the foot tracks at 50 mm from the cut end.
Fit and tighten screws (58).
III 9 b 4 - In case the mandrel has been cut a little too short, the fore and aft play must be
reduced to a minimum. To do this, loosen screw (58), push the mandrel forward, pull out the
bearing holder (19) so that the washer (20) touches backwards, tighten again both screws
(38).
III 9 c - FITTING THE
MANDREL ONTO THE BOOM
III 9 c 1 - Fit the mandrel (16) into the boom profile (15), fit washer (20) and the drum
bearing (18) onto the stainless steel pin (36) inserted in the drum boom end fitting (22).
III 9 c 2 - Check that the mainsheet bails (25) and boomvang hound (28) are properly fit in
the bottom track of the boom as shown on drawing 11.
III 9 c 3 - Slide the bearing (18) located at the rear end of the mandrel (16) onto the stainless
steel pin (36) inserted in the rear boom end fitting (23).
III 9 c 4 - Completely insert the rear boom end fitting over the rear (cut) end of the boom
profile. A ratchet tie down strap is a handy tool to do this.
III 9 c 5 - Drill holes  5mm at the rear end of the boom profile (15) through the pre-drilled
holes of the rear boom end fitting (23). Fit the corresponding flat head pop rivets (24)
supplied in these holes to permanently secure the boom end fitting onto the boom profile.
Drawing 11
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III 10 - FITTING THE BOOM ONTO THE GOOSENECK
III 10 a - Hoist the boom with a halyard and a topping lift (please see drawing 12) by
keeping it as horizontal as possible. Pull it backwards at the same time.
III 10 b – Insert horizontal pin (29) as per drawing 12.
III 10 c - Fit washer (30) and split pin (30) onto pin (29). Make sure you open split pin.
Caution : do not drop or raise the boom more than 15° from horizontal position
as it could cause permanent damage to the gooseneck.
From this stage and on the luff profiles must turn together with the boom.
Drawing 12
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III 11 - FITTING THE BOOMVANG HOUND AND THE BOOMVANG
Reminder: the ideal working angle of the boomvang being 45° the boomvang must
not angle less than 30 ° with the mast or boom.
III 11 a - Fit the boomvang attachment (32) with the 2 slide screws which were left
stacked at the mast foot (§ III 2 B).
III 11 b - Bend the aluminium gooseneck sideplates (13) with clamps to accurately
camber them to the mast shape. During bending please protect the plates from dings
and dents.
III 11 c - Would the sideplates be too long, they can be re-cut if necessary, keeping
in mind too much length is always better than too little.
III 11 d - Draw lead lines for drilling the side plates (13). Drill at Ø 5 mm and machine
holes so that the conical heads of the pop rivets (14) will be flush with the surface of
the side plates . There should have at least 12 pop rivets (14) on each side plate.
III 11 e - Fit the stickers (37) onto the plates to hide the pop rivets. Do the same for
the gooseneck plates (see III 3 e).
III 11 f - Fit the Nylon washer (40) onto the articulation eye (39), fit eye (39) onto the
gooseneck (32). Fit the Nylon washer (41), SS washer (42), locknut (43), and split
pin (45).
III 11 g - Fit the boomvang onto the articulation eye (39) and onto the boomvang
hound (28). Fit the pins and the split pins.
Drawing 13
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III 12 - ADJUSTING THE POSITION OF THE MAINSHEET BAILS (25)
III 12 a - Adjust the position of the mainsheet bails (25) with the set screws which can be
reached from underneath. Fasten the mainsheet blocks to the mainsheet bails.
CAUTION : on boats with a mainsail track or mainsail block attachment on deck or cabin top
ahead of the main hatch the mainsheet bails (25) must be re-positioned as far backward as
possible.
III 12 b - Push the boom by hand over the lifelines as far as possible and tie a knot on the
mainsheet so that in no case the boom profile can be damaged by the rearmost shrouds
when running downwind or jibing.
III 13 - INSTALLATION OF THE CONTROL LINES TO THE COCKPIT
REMINDER TO AVOID FRICTION
1. Only use good quality ball bearing blocks, which will have to be
cleaned and lubricated from time to time as per manufacturer’s
specifications.
2. Use ball bearing blocks with a sheave of large diameter.
3. Reduce as much as possible the number of lead blocks between the
drum and the cockpit.
4. Reduce as much as possible the angle of deviation of the control
lines.
III 13 a - Attach the ball bearing block supplied to the mast foot on starboard at the
convenient position to lead the line to the middle of the drum at 90° angle .
III 13 b - Pass the furling line supplied from underneath through the block, then through
the hole of the drum’s shaft and a tie small knot at its end so that the knot will be
completely hidden inside the drum’s shaft. Please see drawing 14.
III 13 c - To fill the drum with line turn the mandrel (16) by hand towards port side (seen
from above) so that the furling line sticks out of the drum on the starboard side.
Drawing 14
III 13 d - Fit another ball bearing block at the mast foot to lead the mainsail
halyard to the cockpit. Remind to use the right type and dimensions of blocks.
III 13 e - Check that the exit from the mast of the mainsail halyard does not bring
too much chafe.
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IV - FITTING THE MAINSAIL
 Please check again that the foot tracks aft ends have been filed smooth at the
rear (cut) end before starting to insert the foot of the sail.
CAUTION : before operating the PROFURL in-boom reefing system please
make sure that :
1) the mainsail construction and design are in accordance with the attached
specifications.
2) the boomvang angle adjustment ( please see § VI ) is correct. This
adjustment is an essential point to get a good quality furling of the mainsail as
well as ease of operation.
Please refer to the attached mainsail design specification.
IV 1 -15Turn
Drawing
the mandrel (16) by hand so that the foot track (drawing 15) is
upwards.
IV 2 - Do not yet insert the mainsail battens into the batten pockets.
IV 3 - Insert the tack slide (48) into the tack webbing with the flat part backwards
and lock the webbing ahead of the two small plastic cylinders.
IV 4 - Insert the webbing with the tack slide (48) into the port side foot track.
Please see drawing 15.
IV 5 - Insert the foot tape into the same port side foot track and gently pull the sail
forward.
IV 6 - Once almost at the end insert the clew slide (49) into the clew webbing so
that the webbing is locked between the two small plastic cylinders of the clew
slide (49), and insert the clew slide into the groove of the mandrel (16). Please
see drawing 16.
IV 7 - Lock the flat part of the tack slide (48) into the machining of the foot track
and pull the sail backwards to lock. Please see drawing 15.
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IV 8 - Slide the « fingers » of the clew pin (50) into the foot tracks as shown on
drawing 15.
IV 9 - Lash a line between the clew webbing and the ring of the clew pin (50),
adjust the foot tension. Make sure you to tie or cut any loose extra length of lash
line.
IV 10 - Insert the battens into the batten pockets.
IV 11 - Attach the halyard to the head of the mainsail.
IV 12 - Unscrew by about 3 turns only the starboard side plastic knob (43) of the
feeder to increase the gap between the bronze rollers (44).
IV 13 - Slide the sail’s head & luff tape between the bronze rollers of the feeder
and hoist by hand only a few centimetres of sail. Please see drawing 18.
V - FEEDER ADJUSTMENT
The ProFurl feeder has features allowing :
* to very accurately trim the gap between the 2 bronze rollers (44) to accurately
match your sail’s bolt rope / luff tape diameter.
* to quickly increase the gap between the bronze rollers to easily insert the bolt
rope / luff tape into the luff track after the sail has been furled or removed.
* to instant bring back the correct gap for feeding the sailDrawing
into the
16luff track when
getting ready to hoist the sail .
V 1 - ADJUSTMENT OF THE GAP BETWEEN THE ROLLERS.
V 1 a - Screw by hand but do not over tighten the starboard side knob (43) of
the feeder. Please see drawing 16.
V 1 b - Adjust screw (46) with an Allen key, till feeling that the luff tape in pinched.
Then unscrew it back by about ¼ of turn to make the luff tape free to slide up and
down. The adjustment is now correct.
V 1 c - Hoist the sail by gently pulling on the halyard.
V 1 d - To lower or furl the sail, release the halyard.
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Drawing 18
V 2 - TO INSERT THE BOLT ROPE INTO THE FEEDER
V 2 a - Unscrew the port side plastic knob (43) by a few turns to increase the gap
between the bronze rollers (44).
V 2 b - Insert the bolt rope/luff tape between the bronze rollers (44) and push it upwards
into the luff track.
V 2 c - Insert the luff tape directly into the luff track above the feeder (please see drawing
V 2 d - The mainsail is now ready to be hoisted.
Drawing 16
VI - ADJUSTMENT OF THE BOOMVANG ANGLE TO THE MAST
This essential procedure must be achieved either with no wind at all,
or with extremely calm wind and the boat heading into the wind.
VI 1 - Hoist the sail as previously described and tension the halyard normally.
VI 2 - Completely loosen the nuts of the boomvang hound (28) , and make sure
the hound is totally free to move fore and aft.
VI 3 - Make sure the mainsheet is completely loose and let the boom hang in this
position.
VI 4 - Re-tighten the nuts of the boomvang hound (28) with the boom in this
position.
VI 5 -The sail can now be furled by gently releasing the halyard and pulling
together on the furling line.
VI 6 - Fine tuning of the boomvang position adjustment may be necessary :
1. If the luff tape rolls too much backwards, adjust the boomvang hound
(28) position so that the boom angles forward a little more.
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MK 2R
2. If the luff tape rolls too much up, adjust the boomvang hound position so
that the boom angles down a little more.
VII - USING THE PROFURL IN-BOOM REEFING SYSTEM
IMPORTANT WARNING : when gibing please keep constant control of
the boom with the mainsheet.
A boom brake is recommended. If it is added you must release it each
time before operating the system.
Rules of thumb :
1. Make the boat‘s angle with the wind corresponding to a broad
reaching or closer to the wind.
2. Before using the system completely release the mainsheet so
that the boomvang push effect brings back the angle between
the boom and the mast to its « operating » position.
3. If the mainsail is not properly do not attempt to correct this
immediately, but hoist the sail completely, check points as per §
VI 6 and try again.
After a short period of time you will feel how much drag is to be given to the
halyard to get the right tension to obtain a smooth furling of the sail.
During hoisting the sail a slight drag should be applied to the furling line in
order to allow the furling line to be rolled tight enough in the drum : this will
make next furling easier.
Should you wish to just a reef your sail, please carefully check that the head
of the sail is just above a connector/articulation in order to prevent the luff
profile to sag too much. Please stick insignia reefing marks on the luff of the
sail which will be at feeder level to show when the head is at the convenient
position.
When in harbour, or sailing under power, please remove the halyard from the
head of the mainsail, attach it onto the rear end of the boom and tension it. You
can also use the topping lift to achieve this.
VIII - LIMITS FOR USING THE SYSTEM IN RELATION WITH APPARENT WIND
Some boats have spreaders at 90° from boat’s centreline, some other have
spreaders angling backwards. Some other have aft shrouds.
In these last cases the sail will drag on the standing rigging earlier than with
boats having spreaders at 90°. This means that the sailcloth will touch the
standing rigging sooner or later depending on each boat. A smooth operation
is obtained as long as the sail is not touching any shroud or spreader when
the mainsheet is completely released. In other terms it is necessary to come
into the wind to reef or furl the sail just as you would have done with
conventional mainsail reefing.
However in case of emergency the sail can be rolled at larger angles to the
wind till the stage when the friction on the standing rigging will make the
system more and more difficult to operate. Friction would also obviously
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MK 2R
increase with the wind’s speed. In this case a smooth furling can’t be
guaranteed.
23
MK 2R
WARRANTY
1- The PROFURL in-boom reefing system is warranted for 3 years from date of purchase
against parts and materials, provided the warranty card is returned within fifteen days from date of
purchase. The warranty covers the original owner and is not transferable.
2 -The warranty is limited to the repair and replacement of defective parts only by an
authorised PROFURL dealer and only after the written consent of PROFURL SA France or PROFURL,
Inc / USA .
3 - This warranty covers only the PROFURL parts and materials. Any accidental damages or
expenses are not covered.
4 - This warranty is void if the system is modified or repaired without prior written notification to
PROFURL SA France or Profurl,Inc / USA.
5 - This warranty does not cover damages caused by systems which has not been properly
installed, nor unproper operation.
6 - This warranty does not cover the misfunctionning of the system due to a sail having been
made without strictly following the attached specifications.
7 - After installation the customer should check the following :
- the sail dimensions are accurately adapted to the system’s dimensions.
- the sail has been designed and made according to the attached specifications.
- all screws are properly tightened.
- the various fitting procedures and adjustments described in this manual are strictly followed.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please return this portion within 15 days of purchase to :
WICHARD
ZA Pornichet Atlantique
16 Avenue du Gulf Stream
44280 PORNICHET
France
Owner’s name :.............................................................
Date of purchase :.............................................................
Boat’s type.............................................................
Boat’s length.......................................................
Boat’s displacement..................................................
Mainsail’s luff length................................
Mainsail’s foot length.................................
Installed by.......................................................
Date………………………………………………………………..Owner’s signature :
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MK 2R
25
MK 2R SPARE PARTS LIST
Part #
Designation
P208033
P 208036
P177037
P177040
50493
P208112
P50466
50677
P177038
P177039
P208032
51643
P208034
P208042
50493
00052
P177041
50466
50677
P177038
P177039
P208031
51635
P208035
51640
02346
51174
51172
50603
51173
P208020
51429
51432
P208045
51431
50667
51669
P177038
P177039
P208021
51425
51430
P208022
51670
P208023
51633
01201
50512
P208004
P177024
P177130
P208010
51634
Complete sheave box
Sheave box only
Sheave
Sheave pin and slit pin
Bushing for connector/articulation
Complete end bracket
End bracket only
O-ring
Slide screw for rectangular track and locknut
Slide screw for round track and locknut
Complete luff profile
Luff profile only
Complete connector / articulation
Connector only
Bushing for connector/articulation
Set screw STHc M6X6
Complete articulation bracket
Articulation bracket only
O-ring
Slide screw for rectangular track and locknut
Slide screw for round track and locknut
Complete feeder profile
Feeder profile only
Complete feeder
Feeder housing
Screw STHc M8 x 8
Feeder rollers adjustment knob (starboard)
Feeder roller
Pop rivet 4,8 X 14 TR
Feeder spacer ( port )
Complete gooseneck
Gooseneck or boomvang attachment only
Gooseneck bushing
Kit sideplates + screw and pop rivets + stickers
Gooseneck or boomvang sideplates
Pop rivets 4,8 X 20 TF
Stickers
Slide screw for rectangular track and locknut
Slide screw for round track and locknut
Complete gooseneck articulation
Gooseneck togle
Bushing for horizontal pin
Complete lower ending bearing holders
Nylon washer 25,2 x 40 x 1,7
Horizontal gooseneck pin with split pin
Horizontal gooseneck pin
SS washer 16
Cotter pin
Complete boom profile 4m
Mainsheet bail
Complete boomvang hound
Drum boom end fitting with spacer steel
spacer steel
50483
Mandrel for 4 m (13' 1 1/2'') boom
02346
50830
P177012
51639
P208005
P177024
P177130
P208011
51634
Screw STHc M8 x 8
Tube 1/2" for rainwater catching
Drum only
Drum bushing
Complete boom profile 5m
Mainsheet bail
Complete boomvang hound
Drum boom end fitting with spacer steel
spacer steel
50540
Mandrel for 5 m (16' 4 3/4'') boom
02346
50830
P177012
51639
P181018
50603
P177015
50461
50455
50462
P177016
P177017
P177019
P177024
02346
01659
Screw STHc M8 x 8
Tube 1/2" for rainwater catching
Drum only
Drum bushing
Rear boom end fitting with pin and pop rivets
Pop rivets 4,8 X 16 TR
Rear bushing kit
Bearing holder
Rear bushing
Washer LN 16
Tack slide
Clew slide
Clew pin
Mainsheet bail
Screw STHc M8 x 8
Mainsheet bail only
Part #
50360
50344
50713
P51235
P51236
MK 2R
Designation
Ball bearing block
8 mm ((5/16'') furling line
Recommended operating procedure
(13' 1 1/2'') boom brake" 203 C model "
(16' 4 3/4'') boom brake"403 H model "
BOOMVANG AND ACCESSORIES
Part #
P181100
P177043
P177130
50444
50657
00018
Designation
Complete boomvang
Boomvang attachment pin
Complete boomvang hound
Boomvang hound
SS washer 08
Locknut H - M8
BOOMVANG ATTACHMENT
Part #
P208210
P177038
P177039
51645
P207045
51431
50667
51669
P208211
51647
51065
50012
51142
51641
50682
50489
Designation
Boomvang attachment
Slide screw for rectangular track and locknut
Slide screw for round track and locknut
Boomvang attachment only or gooseneck
Boomvang or gooseneck attachment sideplates
Boomvang sideplates or Gooseneck
Pop rivets 4,8 X 20 TF
Stickers
Complete boomvang articulation
Articulation eye
Large PE pin washer
Small PE pin washer
SS washer 14
Low aspect nut H - M14
Cotter pin
Locknut cap
26
MK 2R
MK 2R
IN-BOOM REEFING-FURLING SYSTEM
MAINSAIL DESIGN SPECIFICATIONS
1. GEOMETRY
The design of the mainsail is very critical to the proper operation of the ProFurl
In-Boom Reefing Furling system. General design requires a slightly flatter sail
than normal with a minimum luff curve built into the sail to ensure proper rolling
of the sail onto the furling mandrel and into the boom cavity.
a) Luff curve design:
Please refer to drawing #19. To compensate for various rig designs and mast
prebend, a maximum of 2 inches of luff curve may be designed into the mainsail.
Further draft must be built into the sail through the broadseams.
Caution : if the 2 inches luff curve is exceeded it is possible the sail will not roll
properly into the boom cavity.
b) Draft:
As with any furling sail, the draft of the mainsail must be flatter than with a
conventional mainsail. Leach broad seaming should remain normal with primary
changes to the luff broad seams. A maximum draft of 8% may be used on a
standard furling mainsail. This design will offer the most optimal sail shape for
reefing and furling the mainsail.
If a deeper draft is desired for better light air performance, a sail shaping item
such as foam pad must be added to the foot of the sail. The foam pad is designed
into the foot of the sail under the same theory as a foam pad is added to the luff of
a reefing-furling headsail. Shape and position of the foam pad will be determined
by the depth and position of the mainsail draft.
Caution : Increasing the draft above 8% may create a less desirable sail shape
when reefing the mainsail.
c) Tack angle and foot curve:
The tack angle based on a straight luff and foot must be cut at 88°. Please
refer to drawing #20. Minimum foot curve should not exceed 0.5% of the foot
length at mid-length of the foot. The finished foot of the sail should be a bolt rope
with a finished diameter of 8 mm (5/16”).
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MK 2R
d) Roach:
Maximum positive leach curve should not exceed 6% of the leach length. If a
fuller roach is desired additional reinforcement will be necessary at the forward
end of the batten pockets and may not allow the luff of the sail to set properly in
light air. Also, the added load on the battens may accelerate luff tape and broad
seams wear.
Battens
a) Number and type of battens:
4 semi-full length battens are recommended. Additional battens may be
added, but keep in mind that additional battens create more bulk to the sail and
will limit the ability to furl max luff length into the boom cavity. Semi-flat tapered
battens may be used if desired, but may also add additional bulk to the sail.
b) Batten pocket positions:
Please refer to drawing #20 for batten pockets angles.
Note: batten pocket angles are based on a straight luff curve.
Batten pockets should be sewn on the port side of the sail and be of standard
design based on the type of battens being used. Reinforcement of the batten
pocket at the luff must not be closer than 33 mm (1 5/16”) to the leading edge of
the luff tape (see drawing #21). Leach end of the batten pockets may be finished
in the sailmakers preferred style.
c) Leach line clam cleats (if any) should be positioned on the port side of the sail.
2. HEAD, TACK AND CLEW ASSEMBLY
Only webbing straps of 25 mm (1”) and a two ply maximum thickness of 3 mm
(7/64”) should be used at the tack and clew of the sail. Metal grommets should not
be utilized as they will not allow the sail to furl properly and may damage the
reefing-furling system. Please refer to drawings # 22 to 25 for specific details.
3. LUFF TAPE ASSEMBLY
Teflon luff tape with a finished diameter of 5 mm (3/16”) is recommended for
the luff of the sail. Attachment of the luff tape should be performed with the sails
final luff curve. Luff tape should have only one seam immediately aft of the bolt
rope and fit to the sail with the bolt rope immediately aft of the bolt rope and fit to
the sail with the bolt rope against the cut luff curve of the sail.
Caution : Luff tape applied to a sail based on a luff curve drawn onto the sail may
shorten the life expectancy of the luff tape. Also luff tape with a secondary seam
aft of the primary bolt rope seam may require replacement sooner than the
recommended type.
Please also see drawing 25 for optional double luff tape.
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MK 2R
LUFF AND FOOT TAPE DIAMETER
a) Luff tape:
Maximum finished diameter of 5 mm (3/16”). Teflon luff tape is recommended
to minimize friction when hoisting and striking the sail.
b) Foot tape:
Maximum finished diameter of 8 mm (5/16”).
4. TACK AND CLEW REINFORCEMENT
a) Tack reinforcement:
Reinforcement patches at the tack are necessary but should add a minimum
amount of bulk to this area of the sail.
b) Clew reinforcement:
A large primary clew reef patch is recommended. Take a measurement equal
to 25% of the foot length, measure from the clew towards the tack & mark the
sail at this point. At the 25% mark draw a line parallel to the luff of the sail up to
the point where the line intersects the leach. A single layer over this entire area
will help reinforce the clew and leach when the sail is reefed. Additional
reinforcement in this area is at the discretion of the sailmaker.
5. LEACH REINFORCEMENT AND UV PROTECTION.
a) Leach reinforcement
The leach of the mainsail should have a secondary strip approximately 2 feet
wide sewn onto the starboard side of the sail. This secondary strip will help to
strengthen the leach of the sail as well as add additional bulk to the leach. By
bulking up the leach of the sail the leach will roll tighter and improve the shape of
the reefed sail.
b) UV protection:
A sacrificial strip, applied to the starboard side of the sail, may serve as dual
purpose. First to strengthen the leach and also to protect the rolled mainsail from
the elements, if a UV stable material is utilized. By having a sacrificial strip on the
starboard side of the leach the need for a formal sail cover is eliminated.
Note: The sacrificial UV strip must be wide enough to completely cover the
sail when rolled onto a 70 mm ( 2 ¾”) diameter mandrel (tube).
29
MK 2R
4 BATTEN MAINSAIL
LUFF CURVE DESIGN
Drawing 19
30
MK 2R
BATTENS ANGLE TO THE LUFF
(LUFF BEING CONSIDERED AS A STRAIGHT
LINE)
Drawing 20
31
MK 2R
BATTEN POCKETS
CONSTRUCTION
Drawing 22
Drawing 21
CLEW
32
MK 2R
TACK
Drawing 23
HEAD
CONSTRUCTION
Drawing 24
33