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National Begonia Society
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BEGONIAS AND THEIR CULTIVATION
1.00
2.00
Tuberous Begonias
1.01
From Seed
1.02
From Tubers
1.03
Growing on the Plants
1.031 Outdoor Baskets
1.032 Hanging Baskets
1.033 Greenhouse Cultivation
1.034 Plants for Showing
1.10
Timing of Blooms
1.20
Feeding
1.30
Transport of Plants and Blooms
1.40
Exhibiting
1.50
End of Season and Dormancy
1.60
Propagation and Hybridisation
1.61
Early Cuttings
1.62
Mid-Season Cuttings
1.63
Hybridisation
Pests and Diseases
2.01
2.02
Pests and their Treatment
Diseases and their Eradication
3.00
Fibrous Rooted Begonias
3.01
Semperflorens
3.02
Cane-stemmed and Bush Type Begonias
3.03
Rhizomatous and Rex Begonias
4.00
Composts
4.01
Potting Composts for Tuberous Doubles
& Cascade Begonias
4.02
Potting Composts for Non-Tuberous Begonias
4.03
Composts for Cuttings of Non-Tuberous Begonias
5.00 Main Rules for Judging
5.01
5.02
5.03
5.04
Pot Plants
Cut Blooms
Group Displays
Foliage Types
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Begonias and their cultivation
Introduction
In their native state begonias are to be found mainly in South America but also in Asia and Africa. Various attempts at
classifying begonias have been made, botanically as well as horticultural, but none has been universally accepted. For the purpose of
this booklet, a much simpler (if less correct) approach will be used. We shall restrict our attention to tuberous, fibrous rooted and to
rhizomatous types.
Again, as a simplifying approach, we may consider that the tuberous types are grown almost entirely for their flowers and the
rhizomatous begonias for their most varied and attractive foliage. Fibrous rooted begonias include those, which produce most
attractive flowers and others in which the foliage is most highly prized.
In a publication of this size, it is not possible to deal exhaustively with the cultivation of one type of begonia and indeed the
main purpose here is to describe growing methods which experience has shown to produce adequate plants and flowers. Having
mastered the basic techniques, it is then up to the individual to progress from there and to report his/her successes and failures for the
benefit of all our members.
Although the literature on begonia cultivation is now largely out of print, the Society has an extensive library with most books
published. These books are available to members and details can be obtained from the Archivist on the main committee.
1.00
Tuberous Begonias
The first tuberous species were introduced into Europe during the 19th century mainly from the mountainous regions of South
America. These forerunners of the modern hybrids produced single flowers of not more than 25mm (1") diameter. Intensive
hybridisation programmes in Great Britain and Europe have led to the present day tuberous begonias of which the Multiflora,
large flowered doubles, Pendula or Cascade, Fimbriata, Marmorata etc., are but a few examples. It is important to note that
though the tuberous begonias have the appearance of exotic tropical plants; their origins in the cool upper slopes of the Andes
Mountains indicate that they should be grown in cool, slightly humid and shady conditions
The common feature of all the tuberous begonias is that they do have a period of dormancy, i.e. winter, when they shed all
their foliage and need to be over-wintered as dormant tubers.
Tuberous begonias may be raised from seed, from cuttings or from tubers. Plants raised from seed or from cuttings will, at
the end of the first season, have produced a small tuber and so the cultivation in the second and subsequent years will be
described for tubers. Plants produced from cuttings (vegetative propagation) will be identical to the parents, whereas those
produced from seed (from the crossing of begonia hybrids) will be different from both parents.
Tuberous begonias may be cultivated either as greenhouse subjects or as outdoor bedding plants but not successfully as
houseplants.
1.01
From Seed
For good germination, begonia seed requires light, warmth and humidity and, if flowering plants are to be obtained for
July/August then a January sowing is needed.
The very fine dust-like seed should be admixed with twice its volumes of fine, dry silver sand. The moist compost, either
John Innes Seed or any one of the widely available soil-less types is placed in a shallow seed tray or pan to provide a 25mm 38mm (1"-1½") deep layer. After gently firming the surface, the compost is then lightly covered with some of the same
compost sieved through a fine mesh. A light spraying with clean water will then settle the compost. The sand/seed mixture is
now evenly distributed over the surface using a piece of card and gently tapping over the tray. A further light spray of water
will settle the seed. The tray is then sealed into a transparent plastic bag and sealed. A temperature of about 25°C (77°F) is
needed to ensure maximum germination. Give as much light as possible, with low light and short days, fluorescent lights can
help considerably.
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The compost must not be allowed to dry out and will need to be moistened, preferably by immersion in clean water or by
overhead spraying every 3/4 days. Germination should commence in 7/10 days but it will be irregular.
After germination, the temperature may be reduced to 15°C to 18°C (60°F-65°F) but the seedlings should have more light at
this stage to ensure adequate growth. This is a very critical stage of the seedlings' growth and they must never be allowed to
become dry. Transplanting into the same compost should be done when the plants have produced their fourth leaf (second true
leaves). A second transplanting into individual pots is needed when the plants, with plenty of root, are about 75mm (3") tall.
Further potting-on is carried out each time the roots reach the walls of the pots and when the seedlings are in 100mm (4") pots,
they may then be treated as those grown from tubers, i.e. for bedding or for pot plant purposes.
It is important when growing begonias from seed to remember two things: a.) The seedlings will need to be moved into the open greenhouse in, say February early March and for continued growth, this
will need a temperature of around 15°C (60°F).
b.) A packet of seed will produce a very large number of plants, all of which may need to be potted up individually or at least
have plenty of growing room in boxes.
1.02
From Tubers
The very small cutting tubers produced from the current year's cuttings will need to be started into growth within four weeks
of shedding their stems in order to prevent excessive shrivelling.
The more mature tubers should be started into growth at a time determined by when you wish them to be in flower. As a
guideline, a February start for August, flowering and a mid-March start for late August/early September flowering.
With a fairly large collection, a staggered start from mid-February to mid-April will help to extend the length of the
flowering season.
The tubers are best started in seed trays using a moist medium consisting of peat (3 parts) and coarse sand (1 part) or,
alternatively, any good peat based compost. The trays are filled to a depth of 40mm (1½") with the compost, the tubers placed
50mm (2") apart on the surface, and concave side uppermost, and then covered to a depth of about ¼"with the same compost.
A light spray of clean water will help to settle the compost and the trays are then kept at 10°-18°C (55°-65°F). The tubers will
come into growth erratically during the next few weeks but during this period the compost must be kept uniformly moist, any
drying out especially at the base, will seriously inhibit the required formation of roots. Periodically, the tubers should be
inspected for the presence of rot - this should be cut out completely and the wound dusted with green or yellow sulphur.
When a reasonably sized root ball has been produced (this should coincide with 25mm-50mm (1"-2" of top growth) the tuber
should be very carefully lifted and potted into a clay or plastic pot of a diameter 50mm (2") larger than the root system. The
compost should be gently firmed around the plant but not rammed hard. After this first potting, water should be given only
when necessary i.e. to maintain moist compost. From now on the air temperature should be maintained between 13°-18°C
(55°-65°F). The plants should now continue to develop for about 4-6 weeks, by which time, the root system should have
reached the sides of the pot.
The plants will now be grown on either as pot plants, hanging baskets or as bedding plants and the procedures which follow
will apply equally well to the seedling begonias described in Section 1.01
1.03
Growing on the Plants
As with most flowering plants the best results are obtained when the whole growth cycle has been completed without a check
in the growth process. This is true for those begonias raised from seed and tubers alike.
In general those tuberous begonias normally grown for out-door displays' are the un-named large flowered doubles,
seedlings, Multiflora, Marmorata and Fimbriata, those for greenhouse cultivation are the more expensive named large flowered
double and for hanging baskets the pendula and cascade types
1.031 Outdoor Bedding
Large flowered tuberous double begonias may be successfully grown out of doors to give a rich display of colour through the
summer and up to the first light frost. Together with the Multiflora begonias and the Semperflorens types, they can be
successfully used in bedding displays. The site chosen should be one which receives early morning and late afternoon sun but
which is lightly shaded from the hot mid-day sunshine. The light shading from tall overhead trees is acceptable but try to avoid
situations where rain-drops may fall from overhanging branches. The position selected should also have adequate protection
from strong winds.
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The soil should be retentive of moisture i.e. it should be friable, contain a lot of humus and be well drained. A light sandy
soil will need humus in the form of peat, compost or farmyard manure adding to it. A very heavy clay soil will need to be
broken down by the addition of lime and the action of frost. Again the incorporation of humus will be needed.
In many cases, ordinary garden soil is quite satisfactory and good drainage can be ensured by incorporating a 75mm (3")
deep layer of sand about 150mm-200mm (6"-8") below the soil surface.
The site intended for begonias should be prepared in the previous Autumn and, at planting time, a light dressing with lime
should be given along with 113g per m2 (4oz. per sq. yd) feed of bone meal and hoof and horn meal.
Dormant tubers can be planted out 12mm (½") deep in April - these will come through when the danger of frost has gone.
Normally however, seedling plants from 100mm (4") pots and started tubers from their first pots are planted in June after being
hardened off during May.
Edging plants (Semperflorens) are planted 200mm (8") apart, Multiflora begonias about 215mm (9") apart and the large
flowered doubles 300mm- 350mm (12"-14") apart. All flower buds should be removed for the first few weeks until the plants
are well settled and growing strongly. The Semperflorens growing tips can be removed to encourage the development of
bushier growth. The large flowered doubles will require a support for the tall stems and it is better to insert canes at the time of
planting.
In periods of drought the soil will need frequent watering and especially when the leaves show signs of becoming limp.
An occasional (once every two weeks) spraying with a combined insecticide/ fungicide will help to keep the occasional pest
or disease problem at bay
During the flowering period all dead and decaying vegetable matter (flower heads, buds, leaves, stems etc.) should be
immediately removed to reduce the likelihood of wet rot.
Flowering will continue well into September and early October and indeed until the first light frosts occur. These very early
frosts will not harm the tubers but they will kill off the top growth. At this time the stems of the large flowered doubles and the
Multiflora begonias can be cut down to about 150mm (6") and the tubers lifted together with a ball of soil. These tubers are
stored in boxes in a frost proof place and after one to two weeks the stems will fall away cleanly. The tubers may then be
washed free of soil, any residual root brushed away and the tubers stored in a frost-free place over the winter, after careful
examination for the presence of tuber rot.
The Semperflorens plants should be dug up and composted - perhaps the occasional plant may be potted up and used as a
houseplant.
1.032 For Hanging Baskets
Pendula and cascade begonias require as long a growing period as possible and should be started into growth no later than
February. It is better to start this type of begonia in a pot rather than in boxes so that as little root damage as possible occurs
when moving on. As a general guide, the small cutting tubers should require 65mm-75mm (2½-3") pots whilst the older tubers
will seed slightly larger ones. After about 4-6 weeks in the pots, check for the state of the rooting system if it is becoming well
developed, then it is time to prepare the basket to receive them. A 300mm (12") basket will need about 3 cutting tubers or 1 or
2 of the more mature ones.
The basket is prepared by first lining it either with live moss (sphagnum or florists) or with one of the commercial liners now
available. On top of the lining should be placed a layer of the very coarse peat or, alternatively strips of turf about 25mm (1")
thick. Having decided how many tubers will be grown in the basket, take the same number of empty pots, of the same size that
the plants are in and position them in the basket, fill around them with compost, them remove the pots and replace with the
plants, which have been removed from their pots, gently firming the compost around each plant. In addition to general
watering, the basket should be given a good soaking periodically, by immersing in a tank of water.
Hang the basket when the stems begin to trail over the side. All flower buds should be pinched out until the plants are of a
good size. During flowering the female buds are not pinched out as with the large flowered double begonias. Liquid feeding
during the season will be beneficial for the plants.
1.033 Greenhouse Cultivation
For general greenhouse display the seedlings (Section 1.01) or plants (Section 1.02) are potted into their final pots when the
root system is seen to have reached the sides of the pot. A delay at this stage will mean that the roots will have difficulty in
growing into the new compost. The final pot size will be 50mm (2") bigger than the first pot. The plant is potted leaving some
50mm (2") to the top of the pot to allow for future top dressing. All flower buds are removed until the plants are well
established in their final pots. Compost used in the final pots must be of similar type to that employed in the first potting. A
stout cane or stick is inserted as close as possible to each main stem but without damaging the tuber. These stem supports
should be angled slightly outwards to open up the plant - the stems should be tied as they develop but not too tightly as to
become damaged as they increase in diameter. Side shoots should be allowed to develop but not beyond, say two or three per
main stem.
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From April onwards it will be necessary to shade the greenhouse to prevent sun scorch of the soft leaves and petals. Liquid
shading e.g. Coolglass, applied to the roof and side lights is quite good but some of the open weave shading cloth e.g. Lobrene,
can also be very effective.
During the growing season a greenhouse temperature of 15°-23°C (60°-75°F) would be ideal with a humidity of about 7080%. In the height of summer it might well entail the doors and ventilators being left open night and day. Compost should be
maintained in a moist condition but care must be exercised not to allow water logging. With good quality compost no feeding
should be required until the actual flowering period when two or three light feeds with quarter strength liquid fertiliser can be
given. Any good high potash fertiliser can be used, watered in.
During the flowering season a begonia will produce a succession of four or five blooms per main stem and three or four per
side shoot. Each of these flowers if produced on a flower stem growing out of a leaf axis with usually three buds per flower
stem. The centre bud is the male flanked by two other buds, normally, but not always, female. These two flanking buds are
nipped out as soon as possible. As the buds are beginning to open, watering should take place only during the day. Excessive
watering in the evening will cause droplets of water to form on the edges of the petals and leaves and this will result in the
premature browning of the flower margins. An extractor fan can greatly assist in the removal of water droplets. Flower buds
will probably require bloom supports to lift them up - these can be inserted as the buds begin to show signs of opening. Good
cultivation involves maintaining constant growth by controlling temperature, humidity, light intensity and plant moisture.
1.034 Plants for Showing
For those growers who are considering entering begonias at one or more of the summer shows, final potting is the time to
consider which classes are to be entered and therefore, which type of plant is needed.
If the objective is to be a cut bloom class, then the number of main stems must be ruthlessly reduced to one only - the most
vigorous one. The other growths can be removed when they are 75mm - 100mm (3" to 4") high and used as basal cuttings
(Section 1.61). Plants used for cut blooms should be allowed to produce only one flower. All side shoots should be removed as
they develop and may be used as stem cuttings (Section 1.62). The most suitable tubers to be used for cut blooms are those 2-3
years old and they should require nothing larger than a 175mm (7") pot. They should be grown as cool as possible and as the
flower bud begins to open it is better to reduce the humidity to lessen the risk of bloom spotting. As the flower develops, it
may be necessary to lift it using a suitable bloom support - all leaves should be moved out of the way. In fact the growth of the
flower should be completely uninhibited. A small ball of cotton wool placed between the support and the lower dorsal petal
will help to prevent any splitting.
The timing of the bud is as described in Section 1.10 and when the show bud has been "secured" all other buds larger and
smaller must be removed. Either at this time or about five days later the growing tip of the plant is nipped out.
If the objective is to grow for a pot plant class, then the decision to be made is whether to produce an "all-round" plant i.e.
with flowers facing all round the plant or one in which all flowers roughly face forwards. Having made this decision then all
one needs to remember is that in general the blooms will face in the same direction as the leaf tips. For a front facing plant,
remove those stems whose leaves do not face in the same direction as the most vigorous shoot(s).
For an "all-round" plant then it is necessary to remove any very weak shoots or perhaps one or two in the centre of the tuber
which may not develop very well due to over crowding. Select shoots, which have outward pointing leaves, typically 3 to 4
required for a balanced plant.
With both types of plant, older tubers (4-5 years) tend to produce the number of growths necessary. When final potting each
stem requires a strong take for support - they should be inserted at a slight angle so that as the plant grows and tying in is
carried out, the plant is opened up like a fan. As a guideline only it is perhaps better to restrict the number of flowering side
shoots per stem to two. The height of these side shoots will help to provide a depth of bloom to the plant.
Any other side shoots, unless required as cuttings, should be left on the plant (growth tip nipped out) to provide adequate
balance of foliage.
With the timing information in Section 1.10 in mind, all buds of size greater than 12mm (½”) are removed and all growing
points carefully removed at the same time or a couple of days later. As the remaining buds develop they will need bloom
supports to gently move them out of contact with each other and into spaces between the foliage. It is at this time when a lot
can be done to ensure that, at flowering time, all the blooms may be seen to their best advantage and that proper balance in the
plant is obtained. In every cluster of three buds, the two flanking buds are carefully removed as soon as this can be done
without damaging the central male bud.
A suitable objective to aim for, say on a plant with three main stems, each with two side shoots, would be three flowers per
main stem and two per side shoot, making a flowering plant with twenty one blooms. At the time of the show it is reasonable
to remove the odd leaf, which is obscuring a bloom but this must be kept to the absolute minimum.
Plants to be cultivated with the intention of exhibiting them in "Group classes staged for effect" are best grown as one main
stem with one or two side shoots. Pots of 175mm (7") size are ideal as are three year-old tubers. Cultivation is as above.
1.10
Timing of Blooms
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The timing of blooms for a specific show date is an art rather than a science and even the experts (those growers who year
after year are to be found in the lists of prizes winners) can have their difficulties.
The precise period of time taken by any specific cultivar to reach its peak of perfection from a bud of a given size will
depend so much upon such things as temperature, length and intensity of daylight, humidity, available feed etc., few of which
are under the grower's control. In addition, different cultivars will require different timing under apparently identical
conditions. There is also some evidence that, as a generalisation, the further north one travels in the UK then the longer is the
timing period required for most varieties. It is worth starting from a bud about the size of a ten pence coin and allowing 42
days to the show. Noting how different varieties vary from timing, adjustment can be made for different varieties in the
grower’s own location.
1.20 Feeding
Tuberous begonias are not very heavy feeders. Indeed there is plenty of evidence to suggest that excessive use of fertilisers
can cause the blooms to be multi-centre and "coarse". At the other extreme plants, which are grown in the absence of fertiliser
will be of poor substance and produce very under sized blooms.
Composts described in Section 4.00 will contain sufficient nutrient (both immediately available and slow release) to maintain
plants in healthy growth through the season. It may be, however, that when flowering, the plant may well need an extra bit of
help in the form of a liquid feed.
Any liquid feed made by a reliable firm will be beneficial but especially those which are not high in nitrogen - Phostrogen is
successfully used by many growers as are Champak (Feeds 3&4). For plants being grown in a peat-based (soil-less) compost,
these fertilisers should be applied at quarter recommended strength and at every other watering from about 25mm (1") bud
stage.
For soil-based composts, two applications of feed may be given once the plants have been in their final pots for six weeks or
more.
It must be said that no amount of 'special feeds' will correct badly or carelessly grown plants, and it is consistent good culture
that produces the best plants.
1.30
Transport of Plants and Blooms
There can be nothing more frustrating than having expended effort and care on producing excellent plants and blooms only to
see them damaged in transit to the show. A little careful handling at this stage is well rewarded.
Begonia plants have very fleshy stems, which break easily when carelessly handled. Excessive movement of large flowers
will also cause the flower stems to snap. The constant movement of petal against petal (adjacent blooms) and petal against leaf
will almost certainly result in a lot of bloom damage - this is true about all varieties but especially so in the case of red
cultivars.
The transportation of pots can be the most difficult but with care may be managed without excessive damage. All main stems
together with the flower carrying side shoots must be securely fastened to canes or wooden stakes 12.5mm x 12.5mm (½")
square inserted as close to the stems as possible without damaging the tuber. Most of the main blooms will be already
supported on bloom supports.
Every bloom and large bud should now be cocooned in an encircling layer of cotton wool to prevent damage in transit.
Before commencing the journey, it is a good idea to slacken off the bloom supports a little so that the flowers have the
opportunity for minimal movement.
The plant pots should now be placed in suitable wooden boxes and the surrounding spaces filled with sand, other methods
may be used.
Begonia blooms are best transported in deep flower boxes or "turkey boxes" i.e. large cardboard boxes at least 215mm (9")
deep. "Horseshoe" shaped collars of cotton wool are placed on the bottom of the box. Each bloom is carefully placed on a
horseshoe and the stem taped to the box base using masking tape. An extra piece of cotton wool is now inserted between the
stem and the lower petal. Small wads of cotton wool are placed between the blooms and between the sides of the box and the
petals. With the lids in place, the blooms can be safely transported considerable distances.
When it is anticipated that the blooms may have to remain in the boxes for a few hours, many exhibitors encase the bottom
50mm (2") of stem in wet cotton wool or even insert the stem into a small orchid tubes containing water or a propriety cut
bloom solution .
1.40
Exhibiting
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Exhibiting or entering competitive shows is definitely not the major interest of most of our members but perhaps some
guidelines might just persuade a few more to chance their arm at one or two annual shows.
Classes for tuberous double begonias are usually of 5 types: a). Group Classes, where begonias are staged "for effect" usually incorporating
"other non-flowering subjects".
b). Multi-pot Classes, these are invariably staged "not for effect" and may not contain other plant material. A restriction on
pot size and/or type of plant growth might apply.
c). Single Pot Classes
d). Cut Blooms - single blooms or multi blooms often with some cultivar restriction.
e). Hanging Baskets
Further divisions in the show schedule are also normal, e.g. open classes, intermediate classes, and novice classes. The first
rule for all exhibitors is to carefully read the schedule and, if in doubt about anything at all, seek immediate advice and
clarification from the Secretary or Show Secretary. The following information is for guidance only and should not be taken
as "instruction to exhibitors" it should be read in conjunction with the article on "Rules for Judging".
a).
Group Classes
The space provided is usually a tiered position measuring perhaps 1.8-2.4m (6 - 8ft) across - 1.2m (4ft) deep and rising to a
height of perhaps 2.4m (8ft) or so. The shelves or tiers are normally 300mm (1ft) high and 300m (1ft) deep. The shelves sides
and back are usually black draped. The ideal pot plant grown for this type of group is one using 150mm - 175mm (6 or 7") pot
and carrying one main stem with one or two side shoots in this case all flowers will face roughly in the same direction. It is a
frequent practice to stage a very eye-catching strong colour (but preferably not a deep crimson) in the centre of the back
staging and at a height, which raises it 50mm-75mm (2-3") above surrounding plants. Using this plant as a marker, visualise a
line to the centre of this line colour for colour. When viewed from the side, the display should show a slight "mound" in the
centre and when viewed from the front "no holes" should appear between adjacent plants - bracken and fern may be used to fill
in these holes and to soften the general outlines.
b).
Multi-pot Classes
c).
Unless the schedule indicates otherwise, multi-pot classes should consist of pot plants grown in at least 200mm (8") pots.
Probably the plants will have at least three main stems each carrying about two side shoots. Ideally each flowering stem should
carry three flowers -one just past its best, one at its best and the third approaching its peak. All the flowers should be of the
average size for the cultivar (where this is known), they should be a good shape, good colour, single centred and good quality.
Foliage should be as undamaged as possible, healthy, and should cover the stem from compost level upwards. The plants
should have robust healthy stems, not drawn by heavy shading or crowding and, as pot plants capable of being staged without
artificial support i.e. as the R.H.S. puts it "be well balanced plants". Whilst the N.B.S. Rules for Judging state that the flowers
"need not be spaced all round the plants", i.e. the grower is free to choose the type of plant he wishes to grow nevertheless
from a purely practical point of view plants grown with all flowers facing within an arc of about 160° or so, will create a most
spectacular sight and are ideal in multi-pot classes.
Single Pot Classes
Apply similar considerations as in (b) but perhaps here one should attempt more than three main stems. Though once again
the rules do not differentiate between front facing and all round flower arrangements, there is something to be said for the latter
type in a single pot class. Here the ideal to aim at is as good a depth of bloom as possible, e.g. not a ring or collar of bloom
around the top of the plant. This depth is attained by flowering on low level side shoots as well as the main stem. Blooms will
need to be manoeuvred around to fill in any obvious gaps and to avoid one flower hiding another. In this class the Judges will
be looking for plenty of good quality, good sized blooms on a well balanced plant with good, healthy foliage dressing the
whole pot plant.
d).
Cut Blooms
The N.B.S. requires that all blooms be staged on standard bloom boards. These are based upon providing a 215mm (9")
square space per bloom i.e.
1 Bloom
215mm (9") square
3 Blooms
215 x 685mm (9" x 27")
6 Blooms
457mm x 685mm (18" x 27")
12 Blooms
914mm x 685mm (36" x 27")
The boards should be no higher than 215mm (9") at the back sloping to 75mm (3") at the front. They should preferably be
painted matt black. The boards should carry a circular hole at the centre of each 215mm (9") square and big enough in which to
place enough plastic beakers to stand proud of the board. The objective is to arrange for the lowest petal to just fail to touch the
board.
Whilst it is clearly difficult to avoid some slight damage to blooms especially during package and transportation, any penalty
for such defects will be small compared with that incurred for blotched blooms, more than one centre, excessive gaps between
petals, aged blooms etc.
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The question of bloom size is a difficult one to deal with satisfactorily, though it is possible to make a few observations. The
major concern for all growers and exhibitors of begonias should be quality of bloom and this should embrace the shape of the
flower, the depth of flower, purity of the petal colour, texture of petal, absence of any disfigurement e.g. petal spots, folded
petals or “warts" between petals. This high quality needs to be balanced with bloom size however and we are seeing some
tendency to reward mere size when quality is missing. In the case of the intermediate and open classed for cut blooms it is not
unreasonable to expect good quality coupled with bloom size somewhat greater than that normally expected of the variety. In
novice classes it should be of high quality which is encouraged almost regardless of bloom size. Every bloom should be
correctly labelled.
e).
Hanging Baskets
For the proper display of pendula or cascade type begonias a proper basket stand is essential. This metal or wooden stand
supports the basket at a height of some 1.5m (5ft) and thus allows the trailing stems to be viewed to their best advantage. The
quality of individual flowers, though clearly important, will not be the main consideration. Here it is the overall effect which is
judged i.e. number of trailing stems and flowers, the length of trailing stems and the impact of the colour. The cascades chosen
for competition should have blooms where the colour, even if pale, is a clear colour and not muddy. It is normal to use three or
four identical cultivars in one basket. There is no restriction on mixing varieties but it might be difficult to arrange all trailing
stems to be of the same length and or the flowers to be at the same stage of development.
f).
Labelling
Whilst the correct labelling of plants and blooms is most desirable and must be encouraged, nevertheless obtrusive labelling
is to be discouraged. A clearly marked 150mm (6") long label inserted into the pot is all that is required - labels should not be
attached to the foliage nor should they rise above the foliage on long canes. In the special case of group classes then the label
can be attached to a cane which will bring it just above the rim of the pot.
1.50
End of Season and Dormancy
As pointed out in Section 1.00 the common feature of tuberous begonias, is that they have a dormancy period during the
winter months, say November to March. To ensure good plant growth in the following year and to "ripen" the tubers it is
essential that the plants are treated correctly at the end of the season.
All plants should have had their growth points nipped out be the end of September. Continue to give water to the plants but
in reduced amounts – the compost should always remain moist but never over-wet, maintain greenhouse temperature to 10°13°C (50°-55°F). In the following weeks the foliage will yellow and fall away - remove all fallen vegetable matter to reduce
possibility of botrytis.
When the foliage begins to turn yellow, watering can be stopped allowing the pots to dry whilst the foliage falls. The stems
should now come clean away from the crown of the tuber. After a further three days the union of stem and tuber should have
calloused over. Leave the pot for a week or two and the ball of compost can be then be knocked out and the tuber carefully
shaken out. After examining the cleaned tuber for any damage or rot, it can be stored in a frost-free place (preferably not the
greenhouse where humidity is usually very high).
During dormancy one or two things may be done:
a. Regular inspection of the tubers to ensure that they remain sound.
b. Removal of the hard skin at the junction of the previous years stem and the crown of the tuber - this can be done by careful
use of a penknife blade. Frequently rot begins below this callous.
c. The tubers can be heat-treated as described in Section 2.01.
Where cutting tubers are concerned those produced from early cuttings will possibly measure some ½" in diameter and can
be treated as above. Later cuttings however, will have produced much smaller tubers - some not much bigger than 6mm-12mm
(¼" - ½") in diameter - these should not be heat-treated. Left for a few weeks these later tubers may shrivel badly and therefore
it is a good policy to start these into growth after perhaps only two to three weeks resting. It may be that the only place
available for tuber storage is inside the house where boxes of dry peat would not be very welcome. An alternative is to store
the tubers in paper (not plastic) bags. If this is done, then inspection should be carried out more frequently.
1. 60 Propagation and Hybridisation
Here we shall briefly look at the propagation of tuberous doubles, since other types are dealt with in Sections 2.00 and 3.00.
If it is desired that all propagations should be identical to the parent then one has to use vegetative propagation methods. In
general, this means taking cuttings either early or mid-season as indicated below. In special cases, e.g. where one wishes to
increase stock or a specific variety, then late cuttings can be taken after stopping the plant - this may be October time. Such late
cuttings have to be cared for during the winter and will not be dealt with here.
1.61
Early Cuttings
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In the early part of the season the older tubers will very probably produce young growths in excess of those needed to
produce an acceptable plant. These extra growths can be used as cuttings (basal). If taken early enough. They might even
produce acceptable blooms by the end of the season. These cuttings are carefully removed when they are three to four inches
high. If one carefully examines the base of this growth, it will be possible to see one or more embryo buds, "eyes" at the base.
The young growth should be cut so that there is at least one undamaged embryo bud at the base. Try to avoid removing any of
the tubers with the growth since this often destroys any undeveloped buds which might remain on the tuber for future years.
The cut surface on the tuber should be treated with green or yellow sulphur.
1.62
Mid-Season Cuttings
These stem cuttings taken from well developed plants can be more difficult to obtain at three to four inches long and often
are somewhat more difficult to root. With young tubers, however, they are often the only type available in the first two years or
so. They are basically flowering side shoots and are found growing from the junction of the leaf stem with the main stem.
When this side shoot is about three to four inches long, careful examination at its base will reveal a papery bract which covers
and protects an embryonic bud or "eye". The side shoot has to be removed using a very sharp knife so that the "eye" remains
undamaged on the cutting. This is achieved by making two cuts, one parallel to the main stem and one parallel to the leaf stem.
The two cuts will produce a wedge shaped base to the cutting.
With all varieties this is a difficult exercise but with some it is virtually impossible especially where the leaf stems grow
close up to the main stem. In these cases an alternative procedure may be adopted. The side shoot is allowed to develop further
- at the base of the first leaf on this side shoot will be found a second "eye" - the side shoot can be cut blow this "eye" and the
bottom leaf carefully removed.
Both types of cutting should be inserted into suitable compost or even an open mixture of peat and silver sand and placed
around the edge of a small pot, - two or three cuttings to a 63mm (2½ " pot. The pots are placed in a propagator at 15°C (60°F)
where rooting should take place in 3-4 weeks. Regular overhead spraying will help to prevent the cuttings from flagging. A
mist propagator is especially useful for rooting begonia cuttings.
If there is no propagator available, then a transparent plastic bag may be placed over the pot and sealed with a rubber band.
These pots can be placed on the greenhouse staging or in the apex but must be out of direct sunlight.
When well rooted, the cuttings can be potted individually into 75mm (3") pots and after about 4 weeks the growing tip
should be nipped out.
1.63
Hybridisation
After a few years of growing begonias, many of our members wish to attempt hybridisation - mostly this is just an interesting
hobby or sideline but sometimes it represents a genuine desire to produce a new and outstanding variety In regard to this latter
point however, it must be stated than no matter how much one might enthuse about a specific seedling, it would need to be
quite exceptional to improve upon those presently available.
Modern tuberous double begonias are difficult to hybridise mainly because in the process of developing a fully double flower
it has been necessary to petalise all the stamens and as a consequence pollen is not readily available.
Some encouragement can be given however, in the following way. A cutting taken in June is rooted and grown on in the
normal manner and potted on into a 75mm (3½ ") pot using a medium peat and sand with no nutrient, any flower buds are
allowed to remain on the plant and about early September these buds should be opening. With luck, some of the male flowers
will open to reveal stamens carrying pollen.
The pollen can be transferred using a small brush to the stigma of a female flower, which can be identified by the seed pods
directly behind the flower petals.
This operation is best carried out in August to October in a greenhouse heated to 13°C (55°F). A label indicating the date of
the cross and seed and pollen parents is attached to the stem of the female bloom.
If the cross is successful the female bloom petals will fall in 4-7 days, the stigma will turn brown and the seed pod will
slowly enlarge. The seed pod will take up to 7 weeks to ripen and become dry. At this stage, the pod may be removed from the
plant and kept for a few days in a dry atmosphere before being split to remove the very fine seed. The seed may be stored in
small sealed paper packets, properly labelled and in a dry atmosphere.
2.00
Pests and Diseases
When compared to other plants begonias do appear to be less susceptible to attacks of pests and disease. For example, many
growers have never seen a plant infected with greenfly Nevertheless, insect attack does occur and disease will sometimes
attack one or more plants and one must know how to treat these incidents.
2.01
Pests and Treatment
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Aphids
Usually we mean greenfly which can readily be seen on the stems, under the leaves or attacking the growing tip.
Contact insecticides are much safer to use than systemic types and should be employed wherever possible. In
this instance a spray with any insecticide will eradicate this pest.
White Fly
This very persistent pest is more likely to be present where the greenhouse has been used previously for e.g.
chrysanthemums or tomatoes etc. Attacks of white fly can quite seriously debilitate a begonia plant. The pest
looks like white/grey cigarette ash on the surface of the leaves. Limited attacks can be controlled by simply
swabbing the leaves with cotton wool soaked in water containing washing-up liquid. More severe attacks must
be treated by repeated and frequent spraying of the whole plant(s) with an insecticide specifically formulated for
white fly.
Thrips & Mite
These two are linked partly because they are both virtually invisible to the unaided eye and because their
presence is only detected by observing the damage they cause. Thrips will destroy the soft undersides of the
leaves and in uncontrolled instances, a severe deterioration in plant health. They will also cause severe bud
distortion if left unchecked.
Begonia mites(Tarsonamid mites)
These are believed to be one of the major causes of young plants going "blind" i.e. the young shoots failing to
develop. Both pests are less likely to thrive in an atmosphere which has adequate humidity and during the
months of June/July and August, this can be very low indeed unless frequent damping down is carried out. There
is no chemical treatment available to the amateur to treat this pest.
Earwigs
These pests not only gnaw holes in the leaves, but also feed on the flower petals. Treatment is by any spray or
powder sold for this purpose.
Eelworm
A pest which is not met with all that frequently, especially since the move towards peat-based composts has
gathered pace. Most infestations of this pest came from the use of un-sterilised loam which already contained
nematode. There are two types;
(a)
Root knot eelworm
This causes swellings or galls on the tuber. This has no cure and plants so infected should be burned together
with the compost and the pot destroyed
(b)
Leaf eelworm
This causes the leaves to blacken and ultimately die. The major characteristic in the early stages is that the leaf
tissue between the veins is affected - the veins themselves remain green. This is a contagious infection and may
spread to other plants. If suspected, than any plant so affected must be removed and quarantine. At the end of the
season the dormant tubers should be given hot water treatment i.e. 15 minutes immersed in water at 46°C
(115°F) followed by immersion in cold water for 5 minutes. Growers should be reassured that eel worm is not a
common pest and that before any major step e.g. plant destruction, is carried out, professional diagnosis should
be sought. For members of the N.B.S. which is affiliated to the R.H.S-, leaves from suspect plants can be
examined at Wisley and the presence or absence of the nematode confirmed.
There is an increasing interest today in the use of specific biological control agents for the eradication of certain insect pests
e.g. Encarsia Formosa against Whitefly, Nemasys and Nemasys H for the control of Sciarid Fly larvae and Vine Weevil.
Information on the application of these materials must be obtained from the specialist suppliers but attention should be paid to
maintaining adequate greenhouse temperatures if the predators are to be effective.
2.02
Diseases and Treatment
Stem Rot
A brown wet rot which affects stems of tuberous begonias. The cause of this botrytis is not entirely known
though it is more commonly found amongst plants which are packed too closely together and spreads more
rapidly in begonias which have been too frequently fed on high nitrogen feeds. Infection probably enters a plant
where some damage has already been caused e.g. careless use of the watering can or lack of care when taking
cuttings. Whatever the cause, the affected tissue must be completely removed as soon as it is seen and the wound
treated with a mixture of sulphur and Benlate. If the infection spreads right through the stem, then it will be
necessary to cut right through the stem below the infection. Wet rot allowed to spread downwards will surely kill
the tuber. During the growing season plants should be given plenty of air circulation. Careful watch for botrytis
should be kept especially at the end of the season when many growers encounter a higher incidence of this
disease.
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Mildew
Powdery Mildew is a fungus disease that will ultimately debilitate the plant and disfigure the blooms. It appears
when the right combination of temperature and humidity occur at the right time of the season. Excessive night
humidity together with a temperature drop after high day-time temperatures seems to provide the right sort of
environment for the fungus to thrive. As part of the usual pre-season cleaning of the greenhouse a wise
precaution is to fumigate either with the correct size of sulphur candle or washed with greenhouse disinfectant
Some begonias cultivars e.g. Majesty, Can-Can, Jean Blair, Coronet etc., do appear to be more susceptible to
mildew than others.
At the first sign of mildew the plants should be sprayed with a systemic fungicide. Some parts of the country
appear to be more prone to mildew infections than others e.g. the Midlands compared with the North West. In
view of this some growers have chosen to give their plants 'preventative' rather than 'curative' sprays with the
named fungicides.
Tuber Rot.
It is not at all unusual for the tubers to suffer a degree of rotting especially during dormancy these rots may be
either wet or dry and are usually brown in colour. Their true cause is unknown but if left untreated will
eventually destroy the whole tuber. As soon as detected they should be cut out completely and the wound treated
with sulphur.
It is true that in many instances the need to resort to chemicals for the treatment of pests and diseases could have been avoided
by more careful attention to cultivation. All chemicals are potentially hazardous to human beings, especially small children.
They should be treated with great care and the instructions on the packets rigorously obeyed. Excess solution should be properly
labelled, placed well out of reach of children, or better still destroyed. In all cases chemicals should always, when not being
used, be locked up in a secure, marked container.
3.00
Fibrous Rooted Begonias
Strictly speaking, all begonias have fibrous roots and therefore in this section we shall look at one or two types which do not
form tubers. At the present time the majority of members of the N.B.S. in Great Britain tend to concentrate their attention of
the cultivation of the large flowered tuberous double begonias. This is perhaps regrettable since it is within the group of nontuberous begonias that such a wide variety of plant habit, foliage, colour and texture, flower structure and hue is to be found. In
the U.S.A and Australia on the other hand, the great interest lies in this type of begonia. Within the context of this brief handbook, we shall consider only three broad groups i.e. Semperflorens, cane-stemmed and shrub type, and the rhizomatous
begonias.
3.01
Semperflorens Begonias
These begonias are the popular bedding types occasionally known as "wax" begonias. They are invariably grown as annual
plants from seeds supplied by most of the large nurserymen and seeds men. The seed is sown in early January in the manner
described in 1.01. The seedlings are transplanted when the second true leaf is showing and, after hardening off are planted outdoors when all danger of frost has gone. One or two seedlings may be potted up and grown as indoor plants.
The modern hybrids come true to form so that packets of seed may be bought in variety or as mixed colours. The flowers
which can be single or semi-double are available in white, red and pink shades but not yellow. Begonia Semperflorens can be
obtained which will produce small 100mm-150mm (4"-6") plants or those of taller habits 200mm-300mm (8"-12") and with
foliage varying from a rich green to a distinctive bronze colour.
Semperflorens are almost unique amongst begonias since they thrive in full sun and appear to survive with much less water.
Nipping out the growing tips causes the plants to become much bushier with consequent increase in the amount of bloom
produced. Though is it unusual to propagate Semperflorens begonias, this may readily be done by taking tip cuttings in spring
or summer.
Individual plants which have been potted up can have their flowering period extended by cutting out all the flowered stems to
encourage new growth. A winter temperature of 10°C (50°F) minimum is required to maintain all year round growth.
3.02 Cane-stemmed and Shrub type begonias
This is a huge group of begonias and includes, on the one hand plants which grow to just a few inches high to those which
can produce canes 1.8m-2.4m (6'-8') tall. The foliage may be a rich emerald green or bronze in colour- plain or spotted white
and silver, having a metallic sheen or covered with tiny hairs, plain, three lobed or deeply serrated like the fingers of a hand. In
some instances, the flowers can be small, single and delicate, while in other examples they can be carried in large grape-like
panicles in white, cream, pink, red, yellow and orange. In a few examples the flowers produce a most delicate perfume.
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In general this type of begonia grows best in a minimum winter temperature of 10°C (50°F), they do not like direct sunlight
but it is a mistake to employ heavy shading. Throughout the growing season - (March to October) most cane stemmed
begonias will benefit from regular feeding every month with any good balanced feed.
Though there is no true period of dormancy (unlike tuberous types) this group exhibits a pronounced tendency to a reduction
in growth during the winter months. At this time all feeding must cease and the frequency of watering reduced.
Perhaps the simplest method of propagation is to remove a growing tip 50mm-100mm (2"-4" long) during May to August
and immerse the bottom 6mm-12mm ( ½ " to 1") in clean water. Roots will appear within 3 to 4 weeks when the cutting can be
potted up in a soil-less compost and grown on.
Perhaps one of the most widely grown cane stemmed begonias in the U.K. is B. Lucerna which produces huge branches of
pale-pink flowers and have large green leaves heavily spotted silver. The characteristic leaf shape has led to this cultivar, and
many others, being referred to as "Angel-wing begonias". Grown well, this begonia can produce canes up to 2.1m (7') in height
in sharp contrast to "Orange-Rubra" which grows to only 300mm-450mm (12" to 18") high, has very pale green foliage and
bright orange flowers.
To maintain a compact plant can stemmed begonias can be cut back periodically (every three years or so) - the canes being
cut immediately above a node or an undeveloped growth bud - this is best done in early March. It is a good idea to treat the cut
areas with flowers of sulphur to prevent rot and die back.
3.03
Rhizomatous and Rex Begonias
These two types of begonias are brought together simply because of their similar growth habit i.e. they grow from a
thickened root system called a rhizome this may grow along the surface of the compost or may grow upright. Both types have
outstandingly beautiful foliage thought the rhizomatous types are also grown for the added effect of small, but attractive
flowers.
Rex begonias are prized entirely for the quality and beauty of the foliage in some varieties small 50mm (2") leaves whilst in
others the leaves can be 300mm-355mm (12"-14") in size. The multitude of leaf colours and textures is quire breathtaking and
can rightly claim to be the King begonia.
Both rhizomatous and rex begonias demonstrate maximum growth during late spring and summer but they will also retain
their foliage through the winter if a temperature of about 10°C-15°C (50°-60°F) can be maintained. Growth will also be slowed
by very hot weather in the summer.
If the temperature falls much below this then the foliage is shed but the remaining rhizome will produce new growth in the
following spring. All examples need a regular weak feed during the period May to September.
Though rhizomatous begonias will grow well in slightly cooler and lower humidity conditions than the Rex both type will
thrive at about 65 RH and 10°C-15°C (50°F-60°F). When watering, try to keep the water off the leaf surfaces.
Propagation is similar for both types i.e. from leaves. If the variety has a small leaf, i.e. 50mm (2") or less, then simply take a
leaf with 25mm (1") stem attached and insert the stem into a moist soil-less compost at 21 °C (70°F). Spray daily with clean
water.
If the leaves are somewhat larger, then take a leaf and cut out the leaf stem and petiole leaving an arc shape cut at the leaf
base. Roll the leaf into a cylinder and insert the cut section into a soil-less compost at 15°C (60°F). Spray daily with clean
water. After about 4 weeks roots will appear at the cut ends of the leaf veins - individual sections of the leaf can be severed and
grown on as separate plants.
4.00
Composts
For the experienced grower the choice and composition of compost is very much a personal matter - enthusiasts have even
been know to change the constituent proportions for individual named tuberous varieties. Here however, we shall simply be
describing compost formulations which are known to give satisfactory results when used correctly as described earlier.
Irrespective of whether one uses peat based or loam based composts it is vitally important that the pH (acidity or alkalinity)
of the finished medium is just on the acid side i.e. pH 6.5 and that the air porosity is at least 20 per cent. This latter requirement
can be achieved by adding plenty of coarse grit to the compost.
4.01
Potting Composts for Tuberous Doubles and Cascade Begonias
Either loam based (John Innes types) composts or soil-less composts may be used and, as always the quality of the ingredients
is important.
a). Loam Based Composts
The compost can be made up to the basic formula and using a 9 litre (2 gallon) bucket as the basic measure.
7 Buckets good quality loam
3 Buckets of fine grade sphagnum peat
2 Buckets of silver sand or fine (1/8") grit.
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To each 4 buckets of this mixture should be added 212g (71½ oz) John Innes Base Fertilizer and 43g (1½ oz) finely ground
chalk. The ingredients should be thoroughly mixed.
b). Soil-less Composts
Clearly the best solution is to purchase one of the ready mixed potting compost but if you wish to mix your own then one
formulation would be:6 Buckets of sphagnum peat
2 Buckets of washed sharp sand
To each 4 buckets of this mix add 397g (14oz) special base fertilizer (e.g. Chempak).
4.02
Potting Composts for Non-Tuberous Begonias
Though it is quite possible to grow all types of Begonia in loam based composts, many growers still use soil-less types. We
give a good example of each type here.
a). Loam Based
Again using a 9 litre (2 gallon) bucket as the measure:
2 Buckets good quality loam
1 Bucket sphagnum peat
1 Bucket Perlite (Silva pearl)
1 Bucket Vermipeat
No fertilizer need be added but regular feeding must be carried out about three weeks after potting.
b). Soil-less Composts
One formulation worth trying is:
2 Bucket sphagnum peat
1 Bucket vermiculite
1 Bucket horticultural Perlite (coarse grade)
To this mix is added about 3 tablespoons of ground chalk. In both of these formulations some of the Perlite may be replaced
by 3mm (1/8") grit to increase the weight of the compost.
4.03 Composts for Cuttings of Non-Tuberous Begonias
For rooting stem, rhizome and leaf cuttings, the following compost will work quite well:1 Bucket Perlite
1 Bucket vermiculite
¼ Bucket sphagnum peat
After rooting, the cuttings can be moved on into a stronger compost containing loam e.g.
2 Buckets loam
1 Bucket Perlite
2 parts of sphagnum peat
In each of these composts it may be desirable to sterilize the loam to ensure that any disease or pest in effectively killed.
5.0
Main Rules for Judging Begonias
5.01
Pot Plant(s)
a) There should be a nice balance between the height and width of the plant. Blooms need not be spaced all round the plants.
foliage should be healthy and unblemished, loss of lower leaves will be penalised, but the removal of leaves near to the
blooms, which are removed to give a better view of the blooms, will not be penalised so long as only a minimum number
are removed.
b) Blooms should be fresh with no signs of ageing. Any marks or damage will be penalised. Blooms should be of good size
for the variety, if known. The ideal bloom should be circular in outline when viewed from the front, and the petals should
be symmetrically arranged to give an even shaped bloom. A divided or uneven centre will be penalised. Ideally each
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bloom should be of good depth. Blotched bloom of a self-coloured variety will be penalised, as will any other abnormality.
blooms should be held clear of the foliage.
c) Each pot to contain only one tuber (this does not apply to hanging baskets).
5.02
Cut Blooms
a) Blooms should be fresh with no signs of ageing. Any marks or damage will be penalised. Blooms should be of good size
for the variety if known. The ideal bloom should be circular in outline when viewed from the front, and the petals
symmetrically arranged to give an even shaped bloom. A divided or uneven centre will be penalised. Ideally each bloom
should be of good depth. Blotched blooms of a self-coloured variety will be penalised, as will any other abnormality
b) The staging and variety of colours will be considered as important.
5.03
Groups of Begonias staged for effect.
a) Emphasis will be placed on the general arrangement for effect, harmonious blending of colours etc. Faults: - obtrusive pots,
stakes etc., overcrowding, uneven staging with plants either 'sitting up or down'.
b) The number, quality and size of blooms will be taken into account.
c) Plants to be clean and free from pest, disease and fungal disorders.
5.04
Foliage Types
a) Foliage types will be judged on the quality and shape of the plant. A good size and balance should be achieved for the
for the variety.
b) Plants to be clean and free from pest, disease and fungal disorders.
c)
Only one plant is allowed in each pot.
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FLORAL COMMITTEE
The Floral Committee members are the Qualified Judges at any particular time. A quorum will be made of any three qualified Judges
present at the particular Show.
1.
Any Begonia plant may be submitted by the raiser for consideration by the Floral Committee at the National or Area Shows.
2.
A plant deemed worthy by the Floral Committee shall receive the Society's 'B' Certificate.
3.
Any variety to which a 'B' Certificate has been awarded may be submitted in subsequent season for an 'A' Certificate. This
award will only be given to varieties considered to be of outstanding merit. The Committee may award an 'A' Certificate the
first year in exceptional cases.
4.
The Committee to consist of three or more members, one of whom must be an officer of the Society, and any variety will
receive an award on a majority vote.
5.
The following are the main points which will be considered by the Committee in arriving at their decisions:a. The plant must be well proportioned, carrying at least one side shoot, or alternatively, two or more main stems.
b. The foliage should be neat and not inclined to coarseness.
c. The flowers should be carried erect on stiff stems.
d. The general form of the flower should be round in shape without protruding guard petals culminating in a single centre. A
bloom showing multiple centres will be ruled out. The flowers should have depth as well as breadth, thus avoiding a 'flat'
appearance. The petals may be smooth or frilled.
e. With regard to colour, the Committee generally will give awards to new varieties, which they consider an improvement in
their respective colour ranges.
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Recipients of the Society's Medals of Honour
Gold Medal:
F. J. Martin, V. Spurr.
Silver Medal:
D. S. Anderson, F. J. Bedson, E. Catterall, D Coates, B. Green, J. Griffin,
E. G. Haines. W. Hudson, G. Jackson, S. C. Langdon, J. A. Lewin,
F. J. Martin, G Rushforth, B. Simmons, W. Simmons MBE,
L. A. Simpson, V. Spurr, J Taylor, D. L. Telford, Mary Webb, M. N. Webb,
C. G. Woolley,
Vice presidents:
L. Gill, J. Langdon, J. Rhodes, G. Rushforth, B. Simmonds, M. Stevens, Mary Webb, J. Taylor.
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