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FISHlineNews SYDNEY SEAFOOD SCHOOL N ovem B E R 2 0 1 0 – february 2 0 1 1 R O B E R TA’ S L E T T E R Manfield (Universal), and Matthew Kemp (Restaurant Balzac) also showcase recipes from their fine diners and Ajoy Joshi from Nilgiri’s is back with more delicious regional Indian flavours. We know you love casual entertaining in summer, so Lyndey Milan, the queen of fast and fabulous food, presents another of her popular Seafood & Bubbles food and wine workshops and Kathy Snowball gives you the wherewithal to whip up a stress-free summer seafood dinner party. Twelve months after our $1-million refurb, Sydney Seafood School is bigger and better than ever – thanks to you. For the past 12 months, we’ve been busy monitoring your feedback and making ongoing improvements, most recently fine tuning the four 46" Sharp high definition LCD television screens above the demonstration bench to give a closer and better picture of what’s happening (and to celebrate we’re giving away a Sharp 2.1 Channel DVD Home Theatre system this program, see page 4). As Sydney’s passion for guest chefs hits fever pitch, we’ve also introduced a wider range of guest chef classes than ever before, from 2-hour evening classes with some of Sydney’s most promising young chefs, such as Jonathan Barthelmess from Manly Pavilion (2011 Good Food Guide Best New Restaurant) to weekend workshops with the likes of Mark Best from Marque, winner of the Breakthrough Award in the World’s 100 Best Restaurants list and Other chefs featured on the program include: Mark Jensen (Red Lantern), Brent Savage (Bentley Restaurant and Bar), Dietmar Sawyere (Berowra Waters Inn), Giovanni Pilu (Pilu at Freshwater), Dan Hong (Lotus), Alessandro Pavoni (Ormeggio at the Spit, see chef profile page 6), and Alex Kearns (Neutral Bay Bar & Dining). If you’re after some simpler seafood dishes there are plenty of our regular Tapas, Salt & Pepper, Chilli Crab, Paella, Thai, Moroccan and Seafood BBQ classes as well as a new Seafood Salads class with quick and delicious recipes perfect for warm summer days (see page 7). Christmas is nearly here, so remember our gift certificates can be ordered by phone or printed immediately online. Why not buy a certificate and arrange to attend a class with the recipient, giving a gift that money can’t buy: a shared experience. Happy Summer! Good Food Guide Restaurant of the Year. WEBSITES Visit the FISHline pages on Sydney Fish Market’s website, www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au for tips on how to purchase the freshest seafood and the best way to store it, as well as recipes, step-by-step preparation diagrams, nutritional information and information sheets on many popular species. If you’re a fan of sweet, succulent crabmeat, check out Noosa Spanner Crab meat producer, Ceas at www.ceascrabpak.com and download their free recipe brochure with quick and simple recipes developed by chef Tetsuya Wakuda. While we think nothing’s better than fresh Aussie seafood, we do admit to enjoying some delicious fresh fish flown in from our neighbours across the Tasman from time to time. Visit www.greatestmeal.co.nz and check out some great recipes using fresh New Zealand seafood. Gourmet Sleuth www.gourmetsleuth.com is a wonderful resource for anyone after recipes, ingredient substitution ideas, foodie articles and websites, as well as being a great place to buy hard-to-find equipment such as tortilla presses and sweet little lidded pot-de-crème cups. Franz Scheurer from Australian Gourmet Pages www.australiangourmetpages.com provides wine Veteran chef Damien Pignolet (Bistro suggestions for all the recipes in this newsletter. Moncur) gets us started on 6 November The AGP website includes restaurant, food, wine and featuring recipes from his new book spirit reviews and articles, and you can subscribe to Salades (see book review page 8), while Justin North (Bécasse), Christine FOO d Roberta Muir the FREE e-newsletter from the homepage. Sydney Seafood School NOVEMBER 2010 – FEBRUARY 2011 1 FEATURE SPECIES Storing DORY Make sure whole fish is gutted and cleaned thoroughly; King and Silver Dories also need to be scaled. Wrap whole fish and fillets in plastic wrap or place in an airtight container. Refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze whole fish for up to 6 months, and fillets for up to 3 months, below -18˚C. Cooking & Serving Dories are versatile, suitable for steaming, The name ‘Dory’ comes from old French ‘doree’, meaning ‘gilded’ referring to the Dories’ poaching, deep-frying, pan-frying, baking, shiny skin. These large-eyed, silvery, fish with flat, disc-shaped bodies and spiny fins are grilling, and barbecuing. They have a mild, generally found in deepwater on or near the ocean bed. flavour (John Dory is slightly sweet), low oiliness and moist, medium-textured flesh The most common commercial Dories with fine flakes and few bones, which are in Australia belong to the Zeidae family, easily removed. The edible skin can be named for the powerful Greek god Zeus and left on. Fillets are thin and best wrapped known as the ‘true’ Dories. They are among in foil or banana leaves to protect them if Australia’s most popular fish. barbecuing or grilling. When is a Dory not a Dory Oreodories, members of a closely related Mirror Dory. Photo by Franz Scheurer. expensive relation and makes a good alternative. Other Dories occasionally seen include members of the Cyttidae family (sometimes John Dory. Photo by Franz Scheurer. John Dory (Zeus faber) is one of the most highly prized of all finfish. Found in the western Pacific, eastern Atlantic and Indian Oceans, it’s known as Peter fish or St Peter’s fish in many European languages due to the story that the distinctive dark spot on either side of its body is from the thumb print of St Peter the fisherman. The origin of its English name is a bit hazier, though the most likely explanation is a reference to the greeny-silver hue of its smooth shiny skin, from ‘jaune doré’, French for ‘golden yellow’. Another explanation is ‘Janitore’, Latin for ‘door-keeper’, another allusion to St. Peter, the keeper of Heaven’s gates. It’s caught mainly off the south-eastern coast of NSW and Victoria, is available year round and is typically 500g-1.5kg and 30-45cm, but can grow to 3.5kg and 75cm. 2 called ‘Australian Dories’ though some are found further afield than Australian waters). They’re mainly caught as by-catch and, unlike the ‘true’ Dories, their scaled skin is rough to touch. Silver Dory (Cyttus australis) is endemic to Australia, it has silvery-pink skin and a more elongated body than most other Dories. King Dory (Cyttus traversi) is mainly caught as bycatch of Blue Grenadier trawling off the south-eastern coast of NSW and Victoria. New Zealand Dory (Cyttus novaezealandiae) is another member of this family. family, belong to the same order as Dories, Zeiformes. They have rougher, darker skin, larger eyes and more elongated bodies than Dories and are generally found in deeper water. They include Black (Allocyttus niger); Warty (Allocyttus verrucosus – also marketed as Black Oreodory); Rough (Neocyttus psilorhynchus); Spiky (Neocyttus rhomboidalis); Smooth (Pseudocyttus maculates); and Oxeye Oreodories (Oreosoma atlanticum), though in North America Allocyttus folletti is known as Oxeye Oreo. They are less expensive than Dories and generally considered inferior to them, though they are still good eating and can be substituted for Dories in recipes. They have a thick skin, which is best removed, and a slightly firmer texture than Dories. A number of unrelated, inferior species are sometimes incorrectly labelled as Dories Buying by retailers hoping to trade on the strength Dories are sold whole (gilled and gutted) and of this species’ popularity. Basa (Pangasius in fillet form (usually skin on, as the most bocourti), a farmed catfish imported from highly prized, John Dory, is identified by the South East Asia, is sometimes sold as Pacific dark spot on its side). In whole fish look for dory or cream dory. Butterfish, including lustrous skin, firm flesh, and a pleasant, fresh Striped Scat (Selenotoca multifasciata) and sea smell. In fillets, look for firm, lustrous, Spotted Scat (Scatophagus argus) have Mirror Dory (Zenopsis nebulosa) has shiny, moist flesh without any brown markings or sometimes been called dory, john dory or smooth, virtually scaleless, silver skin and oozing water and with a pleasant fresh sea johnny dory and several species of Spinyfin is caught in deeper water than John Dory, smell. John Dory flesh is white, whereas (members of the Diretmidae family) have mainly off the south-eastern coast of NSW Mirror Dory has a pink tinge and Silver and also sometimes been incorrectly marketed and Victoria. It’s a similar size to its more King Dories are slightly yellowish. as Dories. Sydney Seafood School NOVEMBER 2010 – FEBRUARY 2011 R EC I P E S Pan-Fried John Dory with Orange, Parsley & Date Salad It doesn’t come much simpler than this: a beautiful piece of pan-fried fish with a sweet little tumble of orange, dates, parsley and onion. So simple, but so tasty … the salad can be made a few hours ahead and the fish only takes minutes to cook just before serving. Serves 6 6 x 180g John Dory fillets, skin on Salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 lemon, juiced Orange, Parsley & Date Salad 2 cups flat-leaf parsley leaves, roughly chopped 2 oranges, segmented, juice reserved 100g pitted Ligurian olives 1 small red onion, quartered and finely sliced 1 cup dates, pitted and sliced into slivers ¹⁄³ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon lemon juice Salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Make Orange, Parsley & Date Salad: combine all ingredients, including the reserved orange juice. Season fillets well on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat a frying pan over high heat and add olive oil. Place fillets in pan, skinside down, and cook for 2-3 minutes until the skin is well browned and the flesh is almost cooked through. Turn, add a good squeeze of lemon juice, cook for a further minute then remove from pan. Serve with salad on the side. Wine suggestion: Voyager Estate’s Chenin Blanc 2009 is an aromatic wine best consumed young; its fabulous honeydew melon and guava aromas and flavours will work perfectly with this dish. www.voyagerestate.com.au Photo by Franz Scheurer. Mirror Dory Fingers with Piquillo Mayo These moist, crisp, moreish ‘fish fingers’ make great pre-dinner nibbles or a delicious entrée sure to please old and young alike. Increase the chilli powder or replace it with sweet paprika for a more or less spicy version. Serves 4 as an entrée 600g fillets Mirror Dory 1 cup plain flour 1 tablespoon salt flakes, crushed 1 teaspoon chilli powder Olive oil, for shallow-frying Lemon cheek, to serve Piquillo Mayo ½ cup whole egg mayonnaise (see notes) 2 tablespoons chopped piquillo peppers (see notes) ½ tablespoon lemon juice Salt flakes, to taste Make Piquillo Mayo: combine all ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth. Slice fillets into long, thin strips. Combine flour, salt and chilli powder in a plastic bag. Add fish strips and shake to coat well. Tip into a fine sieve and gently shake off the excess mixture. Heat a frying pan over high heat and add oil. Lay fish strips in pan and cook Photo by Franz Scheurer. for a minute or 2, until almost opaque. Turn, and cook for a further 30-60 seconds then remove from pan and drain on paper towels. Pile onto a platter, sprinkle with salt and serve with Piquillo Mayo and a lemon cheek on the side. Notes: If you don’t want to make your own mayonnaise, use one made from whole eggs such as Paul Newman’s Own or Thomy. Piquillo peppers are a Spanish pepper available in tins and jars from good delis; use peeled, roasted red capsicum if they’re unavailable. Wine suggestion: The Piquillo Mayo will stand up to a soft red wine, making Primo Estate Merlesco 2009 the perfect companion. Soft, juicy, fruit-forward with crunchy tannins, it’s a glorious wine. www.primoestate.com.au Sydney Seafood School NOVEMBER 2010 – FEBRUARY 2011 3 Go into a draw to WIN a Sharp 2.1 Channel DVD Home Theatre system when you make an online booking. Booking online is quick, convenient and secure … and you can do it from any computer at any time of the day or night, whenever it’s convenient for you. It saves us time and resources too as we don’t have as many phone calls to answer and your booking goes straight into our computer without us having to enter the data. A WIN-WIN situation. So, to say thank you, every time you book online before 1 March 2011 you’ll go into a draw to win a Sharp 2.1 Channel DVD Home Theatre with subwoofer and Tall Boy Speakers, valued at $849. Transform TV, movies, and music into a realistic 5.1 channel surround sound experience without the complicated 5 speaker set up. The progressive scan DVD player with high definition multimedia interface provides crystal clear pictures on your high definition television; built-in FM stereo digital tuner provides crystal clear digital radio listening; and built-in USB host plays MP3 music files from any USB memory stick or MP3 player. Learn more at www.sharp.net.au So visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au and book now. Terms and Conditions: 1.Sydney Seafood School Online Booking Promotion entry is open to all Sydney Seafood School customers. 2. To participate in this promotion book online by midnight on Monday 28 February 2011. 3. There is no entry fee involved in participating in this competition, but all participants must be 15 years of age or older. 4. To be eligible to win a Sharp 2.1 Channel DVD Home Theatre system valued at $849, entrants must book a Sydney Seafood School cooking class online by midnight on Monday 28 February 2011. 5. Prize will be drawn at Sydney Fish Market, Bank Street Pyrmont, NSW 2009 at 11am 1 March 2011. The winner will be notified by email on the same day. 6. Promoter is Sydney Fish Market, Bank Street Pyrmont, NSW 2009. Phn +61 2 9004 1100. ABN 24 064 254 306. 7. You must ensure that all care is taken when making the booking. A booking is not deemed to have been received unless an email confirming the booking has been sent to the customer. 8. Sydney Fish Market accepts no responsibility for any booking not received by Sydney Fish Market or delays in the delivery of bookings due to technical disruptions or for any reason. All online bookings are deemed to be received at the time of receipt NOT time of transmission by the entrant. 9. Sydney Fish Market reserves the right to keep all entry emails confidential. 10. Employees of Sydney Fish Market and their families are not eligible to enter. 11. The prize is not transferable or redeemable for cash. Authorised under NSW Permit No LTPS/10/04327. FAQ Answers to Frequently Asked Questions Check the FAQ pages in the FISHline section of www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au and if you can’t find the answer there, email your question to [email protected] The biggest mistake people make when cooking seafood is overcooking. Fish flesh has a more delicate structure than red meat or poultry, so heat penetrates it, and cooks it, very quickly. The trick is to take it off the heat just before you think it’s fully cooked, as the residual heat in it will continue to cook it on its way to the table. 4 How can I tell when fish fillets, steaks or cutlets are cooked? Flesh that has just turned opaque is the key. Cook fish skin-side down as the skin protects the flesh from overcooking. Watch the edges or sides of the fillet: turn thin fillets (such as Garfish) when the edges turn opaque; with thick fillets wait until the flesh has turned opaque about ¾ of the way up the side of the fillet, then turn. The second side will only need a minute or 2 further cooking, depending on thickness, it’s cooked when it flakes easily when tested with a fork. And remember, some fish, especially oily fish like Salmon, Tuna and Yellowtail Kingfish, are great served rare – but always buy sashimi-grade if you plan to serve them this way. How can I tell when whole fish are cooked? In plate-sized whole fish, test by gently pulling on the dorsal (top) fin, it’s cooked when the fin comes out without any resistance and the eye is completely opaque. In larger whole fish look inside the Sydney Seafood School NOVEMBER 2010 – FEBRUARY 2011 belly cavity towards the backbone to check that the flesh there has turned opaque. How can I tell when crustaceans are cooked? The shells of crustaceans, including Prawns, Crabs, Rocklobsters and Bugs, turn bright red when they’re cooked. Their flesh is quite delicate, so once the heat has penetrated the tough shell the meat cooks quickly. If crustacean meat has been removed from the shell, it’s ready as soon as it turns from translucent to opaque. How can I tell when bivalves are cooked? Bivalves, such as Mussels, Pipis and Vongole are cooked as soon as their shells open. When cooking a batch of these shellfish they’ll pop open at different times, so stand by with tongs and a bowl and remove each shell from the pan as soon as it opens. When most have opened, cover the rest and cook for another minute or 2. Pry any unopened shells open over the sink and if they look and smell good, they’re fine to eat. CLASSIC DISH S a lt & P e pp e r The use of salt and pepper as the typical condiments on western tables began in 17th century France and today virtually every recipe for a European-style dish calls for these two ingredients. RECIPE Deep-Fried Salt & Pepper Octopus Deep-frying, when done properly, is a great way to cook seafood. It’s fast, cooking most foods in a few minutes, it quickly seals the food’s surface, locking in flavour and moisture and it adds appealing crunch, colour and aroma. Serves 6 as an entrée 1kg baby Octopus 2 tablespoons fish sauce 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon dried chilli flakes 1 tablespoon crushed coriander seeds 2 tablespoons salt flakes, crushed 1 tablespoon crushed white peppercorns Photo by Franz Scheurer. 2 cups tapioca starch Vegetable oil, for deep-frying The ‘salt and pepper’ flavouring used in Chinese dishes however refers to Sichuan pepper, not a true pepper (from the Piper nigrum vine), but a similar-shaped dried fruit from the prickly ash tree (Zanthoxylum Clean Octopus and cut it into bite-sized pieces. Place in a piperitum). Along with chillies, Sichuan pepper defines food from the bowl with fish sauce and lemon juice and leave to marinate for south-west Chinese region of Sichuan (also written Szechuan/Szechwan). It is one of the most ancient Chinese spices and has a strange tingling, numbing effect. Some say the reason for its popularity in this spicy cuisine is that the numbing effect allows people to eat even more chillies! It also has a wonderful aroma, which is amplified by roasting and grinding, and was used as perfume before becoming a culinary spice. As for salt, it’s often considered the foundation of Sichuanese cooking, as its use draws out the natural flavours of other ingredients. Unlike other Chinese regions where soy sauce is the primary source of salt, in 30 minutes. Drain and pat dry. Place chilli, coriander, salt, pepper and cornflour in a large freezer bag, add the Octopus and shake well to coat. Place Octopus in a colander and shake well to remove excess flour. Heat oil in a wok or deep-fryer to 190˚C. Add Octopus and cook for 1-2 minutes, until crisp and tender. Sichuan, local crystallised salt, mined in the region for over 2,000 years, is most commonly used. Traditional Sichuanese cuisine is categorised into 23 separate flavours, of which ‘Sichuan Pepper & Salt’ is one, with Wine suggestion: This dish demands a wine with a bit of ground dry-roasted Sichuan pepper mixed with roasted salt and used as a complexity, like Curly Flat’s unwooded, excellent value, dip for deep-fried foods. From this traditional flavouring come the ‘Salt & Lacuna Chardonnay 2006. www.curlyflat.com Pepper’ dishes so often seen on Chinese menus in Australia. From the traditional combination of salt and Sichuan pepper, it’s easy to improvise other seasonings for deep-fried seafood. Many ‘salt & Learn the secrets of traditional Chinese salt & pepper pepper’ mixtures include ground white and/or black peppercorns Prawns and contemporary chilli salt Squid at one of and some include Chinese five spice (which contains Sichuan pepper Sydney Seafood School’s regular Salt & Pepper cooking along with cassia or cinnamon, fennel seed, star anise and cloves). A combination of ground chilli and salt is another variation seen on bistro and café menus across the country. classes. Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or call 9004 1111 to book. Sydney Seafood School NOVEMBER 2010 – FEBRUARY 2011 5 ALESSANDRO PAVONI from ORMEGGIO AT THE SPIT Tuna Crudo with Tomato, Avocado & Burrata Most of the Italian food with which Sydney-siders are familiar either hails from southern Italy or consists of northern dishes (such as risotto) cooked by chefs with southern heritage. It’s a long way from the sparkling Mediterranean waters of Sicily to the snow-covered Italian Alps, and the food is also, understandably, very different. 6 ripe Roma tomatoes, quartered There’s a lot about northern Italian food that we have yet to learn, and Alessandro Pavoni, whose cooking is firmly rooted in the traditions of his home region of Lombardy in Italy’s north, is on a mission to rectify this. With a CV that starts at Ristorante Carlo Magno under renowned chefs Iginio Massari and Giuseppe Maffioli, and moves through Michelin-starred kitchens such as Villa Fiordaliso on Lake Garda, it’s not surprising that Pavoni came to notice when he took over the burners at harbourkitchen&bar at Park Hyatt Sydney in 2005. 500g burrata (see notes) Like so many young chefs however he hankered for a restaurant of his own, where he could combine the traditional cuisine of his childhood with the fabulous fresh produce he discovered in Australia and modern techniques and presentation ideas. In November last year the dream became a reality when he and long-time front-ofhouse colleague, Fraser Guthrie, opened Ormeggio at the Spit, suspended over the water at Mosman’s d’Albora Marina. Ormeggio is Italian for ‘mooring’, and Pavoni says the Middle Harbour location reminds him of the beautiful lakes of northern Italy. The nautical setting lends itself to lots of wood, crisp white linen and large sliding windows and doors, giving an alfresco feeling even to inside tables. It also makes seafood a natural focus, alongside the game, polenta and risotto for which Lombardy is famous. Crudo of Yellowtail Kingfish with olives, green apple, cucumber jelly, lime and Lake Como extra virgin olive oil, and tartare of venison with amaranth, pomegranate and mustard chestnuts make fine antipasti with a glass of sparkling Franciacorta as the 6 Serves 6 as an entrée ½ bunch basil, leaves only 2 cloves garlic 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar Salt flakes, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 500g piece sashimi-grade tuna loin 2 avocados Extra virgin olive oil, to serve Blend tomato, most of the basil, garlic, vinegar, salt and pepper to a puree in a food processor. Pass setting sun lights up one of Sydney’s most beautiful waterways. through a fine sieve. Pavoni is the risotto king, raising its making from an art form to a religion, so it’s hard to choose anything else as a primi, whether it’s the earthy risotto of beetroot and gorgonzola or a more delicate one with oysters, prosecco and lemon. When it comes time for secondi it’s worth eating with a group of friends in order to enjoy the specialty of Pavoni’s hometown of Brescia: Spiedo alla Bresciana (minimum of 10 people, 24 hours notice). This traditional spit-roast consists of pieces of duck, pork, and quail cooked with sage and butter for 5 hours on a slowly turning spit, and served with a coarse yellow polenta. portion into 3 slices. As the last of the colour fades from the sky and the house lights on the Seaforth shore flicker like those of Limone on Lake Garda, dip a spoon into Alessandro’s Barbajada dessert (based on a Milanese winter drink of malted chocolate, coffee and cream) with caramel gelato and almond and mint crumble, sip a good espresso and thank goodness for the fate that brought this passionate chef from Italy’s snowy Alps to Sydney’s sparkling harbour. specialty of the Puglia region, available from some d'Albora Marina, The Spit, Mosman, 9969 4088 Lunch: Tuesday to Sunday Dinner: Tuesday to Sunday www.ormeggio.com.au See Alessandro Pavoni at Sydney Seafood School on 7 February. Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or call 9004 1111 to book. Sydney Seafood School NOVEMBER 2010 – FEBRUARY 2011 Slice the Tuna into 6 equal portions, then cut each Cut avocados into 2cm-thick slices, dice, dress with salt and extra virgin olive oil. Chop burrata finely, dress with salt and extra virgin olive oil. Place avocado in the centre of serving bowls, top each with 3 slices of tuna then burrata. Pour tomato mixture around the sides. Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt, garnish with remaining basil and serve. Notes: Burrata is a fresh mozzarella filled with cream and fresh curd and twisted closed. It’s a delicatessens. Wine suggestion: Beelgara Estate Range Rosé 2009 is fruit forward but quite dry, with alluring raspberry flavours and a distinct earthiness. A perfect summer wine with this delicious summer dish. www.beelgara.com.au S EAFOOD S ALAD S Salads make a perfect meal year round, but especially during the warmer months. Served at room temperature, there’s no rush to get them to the table hot, and they can be enjoyed at a leisurely pace. Seafood, with its light flavours and array of colours, is perfect for warm or cold salads, as entrées, light meals or buffet dishes. Choose a classic or invent your own. Prawn Cocktail, that great 1970s and 80s dinner party entrée, is back with a vengeance. And why not? Made with fresh ingredients it’s a deliciously simple dish that deserves to stay in fashion. It traditionally consists of Prawns in a cocktail sauce on a bed of iceberg lettuce. MarieRose, the classic cocktail sauce, is mayonnaise tinted pale pink with tomato ketchup (never the thinner, more acidic tomato sauce) and lifted with a little lemon juice and chilli in the form of Tabasco or cayenne pepper. Diced avocado, while not traditional, is a delicious addition. You can buy already cooked Prawns, but you’ll find they’re much more tender when freshly boiled. Salade Niçoise, from the city of Nice in southern France, is traditionally associated with canned Tuna, for which the Mediterranean is famous. It was however originally a cold vegetable salad, Tuna being a later addition. Fresh Tuna lifts it to a new level. Tips for making other seafood salads: • For a substantial salad, start by choosing a carbohydrate: boiled potatoes, pasta, rice, couscous, cracked wheat or other grains. This could be determined by what leftovers you have on hand. • Add any seafood you like, although it’s usually best to keep flavours simple and stay with just one variety. • Next add one or more vegetables, soft salad leaves or crisp greens such as asparagus. • Fresh herbs lift flavour and aroma; flat-leaf parsley, chervil, dill and coriander are all suitable, green onions add a bit of heat. • The dressing can be vinaigrette-based (oil plus citrus or vinegar) or a creamy, mayonnaise-based version. Either way be sure to add it at the last moment so leaves and vegetables don’t wilt, and stir it through gently so as not to break up the seafood. • Seek inspiration from simple classic salads such as coleslaw, tabouli, Waldorf or Caesar, using them as a base to create your own creations. See the FISHline pages of www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au for more great seafood salad recipes, including: • Bonito, White Bean & Tomato Salad with Caper Mayonnaise • Vietnamese Salad with Yellowfin Bream • Smoked Trout & Cracked Wheat Salad Crab & Green Mango Salad Serves 6 as an entrée 750g cooked Crab meat (see notes) 1 large green mango, shredded 100g snow pea sprouts, trimmed 1 punnet cherry tomatoes, halved 1 bunch green asparagus, trimmed Coconut Dressing 140ml coconut milk 2 teaspoons grated ginger 1 small red chilli, seeded and chopped 2 tablespoons shredded mint leaves 2 tablespoons lime juice 1 teaspoon fish sauce ½ teaspoon grated palm sugar Salt flakes, to taste Cut asparagus on the diagonal and blanch in boiling water for 30-60 seconds. Make Coconut Dressing: place all ingredients in a screw-top jar, shake well and chill until needed. If using pre-picked Crab meat, place it in a colander and squeeze gently to remove any excess moisture. Place in a large bowl with avocado, mango, sprouts, tomatoes and asparagus and mix gently to combine. Arrange on a serving platter, pour over dressing and serve immediately. Notes: If you don’t want to pick your own Crab meat, buy good quality frozen Australian Crab meat such as Ceas or Abacus. Wine Suggestion: With aromas of rose petals and musk augmented by cherry and Turkish delight flavours, Coriole Nebbiolo Rosé 2008 is an ideal match for this salad. www.coriole.com Learn more great salad recipes at Sydney Seafood School’s Seafood Salads classes on 20 & 28 January. Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or call 9004 1111 to book. • Smoked Tuna Salad • Salad of Cuttlefish, Tomato & Sweet Sour Onions • Cuttlefish, Potato & Spinach Salad • Warm Salad of Barbecued Octopus, Zucchini & Marinated Fennel • Moreton Bay Bug Salad with Rocket, Asparagus & Saffron Aïoli • Salad of Moreton Bay Bugs & Brown Rice with Sesame Dressing • Crab, Celeriac, Orange & Asparagus Salad • Crab Salad with Witlof & Snow Peas • Redclaw & Soba Noodle Salad • Yabby Salad with Tomato & Basil • Yabby Cocktail • Prawn Salad with Chilli, Cucumber & Watercress • Rocklobster Salad with Radish, Orange & Mint • Rocklobster & Herb Salad with Asian Dressing Photo by Franz Scheurer. Sydney Seafood School NOVEMBER 2010 – FEBRUARY 2011 7 Salad of Fennel, Cucumber and Avocado with Ocean Trout Roe This salad is perfect served with Prawns barbecued in their shells. Serves 6 1 head fennel, trimmed and cut into eighths lengthwise 2 large Lebanese cucumbers, peeled and cut into 2cm dice 1 large firm avocado, peeled, seeded and cut into 1cm dice 1 handful flat-leaf parsley leaves, roughly shredded 2 teaspoons walnut oil or pistachio oil 20ml extra virgin olive oil 40ml vegetable oil 20ml cider vinegar, or more to taste 1 golden shallot, finely diced Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste 12 small cos lettuce leaves, washed and dried 100g Ocean Trout roe Shave the fennel into 2mm-thick slices using a sharp knife or mandoline and put in a mixing bowl. Add cucumber, avocado and parsley. Combine the oils, vinegar, shallot, salt and pepper. Taste and adjust with vinegar so the dressing tastes slightly sharp. Moisten the vegetables with most of the dressing (taking care not to add too much) and toss gently. Distribute the salad between the cos leaves, top with roe and serve with Prawns barbecued in their shells. Wine Suggestion: Terroir-mad Mount Majura vineyards produce the perfect wine for this dish: Mount Majura Pinot Gris 2010; a clean, fruit-driven wine which never sees any oak and is meant to be drunk young. www.mountmajura.com.au Recipe from Salades by Damien Pignolet. Photo by Anson Smart. Free subscription to FISHline news If you’d like to receive a copy of FISHline News and the Sydney Seafood School program of classes 3 times a year, please email your details to [email protected]. A full program of classes and FISHline recipes, storage tips and species information are available at www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au. T O CON TAC T S YDNEY F I S H M A R K E T: (ABN 24 064 254 306) CALL Reception +61 2 9004 1100 FISHline +61 2 9004 1122 Seafood School +61 2 9004 1111 EMAIL [email protected] WRITE Locked Bag 247, Pyrmont NSW 2009, Australia VISIT Cnr Bank St and Pyrmont Bridge Rd, Pyrmont WEBSITE www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au Sydney Fish Market retailers are open every day except Christmas Day Disclaimer: The information in this newsletter is provided in good faith. While Sydney Fish Market Pty Ltd makes reasonable efforts to ensure information in this newsletter is up to date and accurate, neither Sydney Fish Market Pty Ltd nor any of its related bodies corporate (as defined in section 50 of Corporations Law) makes any representation or gives any warranty as to the currency, accuracy, reliability or completeness of any information in this newsletter. To the extent permitted by law, Sydney Fish Market Pty Ltd accepts no responsibility or liability for any loss, damage or injury suffered by the user consequent upon, or incidental to, the information in this newsletter. 8 Sydney Seafood School NOVEMBER 2010 – FEBRUARY 2011 B OO K REVIEW Salades by Damien Pignolet Yet again Damien Pignolet, author of the beautiful cooking ‘manual’ French, has produced a book that instructs, informs, and entertains, that has value for what it teaches now and for what it will remind us of in years to come. Written in Pignolet’s informative, conversational style, it’s part cookbook part snapshot of Sydney food in 2010, when Sopra on Macleay Street makes excellent coleslaw and mâche leaves have recently become reliably available. Balance is the overriding theme as Pignolet goes about combining bitter, sweet, soft, crisp, smoky, peppery, earthy, piquant, salty and tart to introduce a vast repertoire within a course that has often been unfortunately relegated to a ‘side dish’. From composed salads that make wonderful entrées, such as Yabbies with fennel, celery, avocado and hazelnut vinaigrette, to his take on classics, including a coleslaw with a twist; from main course salads such as seared baby Squid tossed with roasted onions, mint, chives and dandelion, to those designed for the more typical role of accompaniment like a tumble of fennel, cucumber, avocado and Trout roe, perfect alongside barbecued Prawns (see recipe at left). There are also salads for special occasions, think Mud Crab, witlof and basil with ginger-scented dressing, and warm salads like seared Scallops with Jerusalem artichokes and herbs, also mentioned in the chapter dedicated to winter salads. Most recipes include suggestions for additional courses or components to round out the meal, with rockmelon, raspberry, honey and passionfruit salad recommended to follow a large baked fish with saffron pilaf and green salad. Read it for the history past and present, keep it handy in the kitchen for delicious salads, simple and complex, for every stage of the meal, year round. RRP $59.95 (Penguin) ISBN 9 781920 989552 Damien will present seafood recipes from his new book on 6 November. Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or call 9004 1111 to book.