Craig Peniel

Craig Peniel
A big impressive boulder with many steep test pieces and the
classic This Way Inclined. There are also several excellent
satellite problems within easy striking distance. This is a
beautiful spot with a really peaceful ambience; the view of
the surrounding landscape even includes a clear sight of the
sea in the distant Cardigan Bay.
The rock is rough rhyolite, a touch flakey in places but
generally sound. The landings are friendly and free of any
significant bogginess, just watch out for nettles around on
the shadowy side in the summer.
Conditions: An open, sunny venue with no significant seepage
issues. The exposed position ensures that it catches any wind
that might pick up. This does make for quick drying rock and
less midge-blighted evenings in the summer than might be
expected, however it can be surprisingly cold up here in the
winter.
Approach: This area can be found close to Chwarel Manod above
the south east edge of the town centre of Blaenau Ffestiniog.
If arriving by car, park sensibly, and with respect for local
residents, in one of the streets just off the main road in the
area below Chwarel Manod. From the back of the houses follow
the track left past a five bar gate,
The first problems can be found on the lone boulder in the
centre of the ancient quarry. Turn up just after the five bar
gate and walk up to reach the boulder which is slightly hidden
to the right of the old winding house walls.
1. Anweledig 7C
The jutting prow provides a complex and desperate challenge,
requiring some inventive manoeuvres and the use of a wonderful
sloping hold. Start sitting. [Pete Robins 29.02.12]
2. Sex Bob-omb 7A+
The obvious line on the steep right side of the Anweledig
prow. Start sitting with feet on the low block, left hand on
the undercut and right on a low pinch out right. A hold up
right and a double slopey edge directly above the undercut
allow access to the slopey lip and jugs above. Various
sequences are possible, including one which matches the double
edge. [Jack Rattenbury 02.12]
Return to the track and continue up it as it turns into a long
gentle incline running leftwards up the hillside left of
Chwarel Manod. Just before you reach the point where the angle
of the incline flattens out an attractive wall is seen 40m to
the left, just beyond a stream.
3. 5A
The left arête of the steep, narrow wall taken from a sit down
start.
4. 6A
The right arête of the wall also goes from a sit down start.
It is possible to climb a good ‘blinkers – on’ eliminate up
the wall between these two problems.
Just after the point where the angle of the incline flattens
out you should be able to spy a large split boulder
approximately 150m away diagonally leftwards from the path.
Cross the fence and make a beeline for the boulder – this is
the main event!
5. 5A
A sit down start tackling the left arête of the short steep
face. [Dafydd Davis 90s]
6. 5C
Make the transition from steep to slabby a metre or so right
of the arête.
6a. Blaenau Nights 7B
Using an obvious crimp for the right hand, make a desperate
slap to the lip and mantel up onto the slab. [Chris Davies
2004]
7. Jack’s Sitter 6C
From a sit down start in the alcove (right hand undercutting
the hole, left hand on a choice of low holds), pull up to a
slopey finger hold in a slanting/horizontal crack and make a
decisive slap to a good jug. Make a few moves up left to the
obvious holds and rock up onto the slab. Linking Jack’s Sitter
into Tramwyiad Car Gwyllt rates 6C+. [Jack Rattenbury 02.12]
8. Tramwyiad Car Gwyllt 6B+
Start sitting with good holds just right of Jack’s Sitter;
move up to the lip and follow it leftwards on an assortment of
interesting holds to finish up Problem 5. [Dafydd Davis 90s]
9. 5C
The steep arête is tackled from a sit down start. [Dafydd
Davis 90s]
10. Project
A hard, board style line up the steep little face left of Y
Creigwr.
11. Y Creigwr 5C
An excellent problem tackling the right edge of the steep
face. The slappy 7A sit down start is a cracker too. [Dafydd
Davis 90s]
12. Inkerman 7A+!
A stunning highball line accepting the challenge of the upper
shield above This Way Inclined. It is high but the landing is
very good. From the base of the crack pull out onto the steep
face and connect a series of spaced holds up to an obvious
spike. A slightly committing pull on a nice flat edge leads to
the top arête and a high finish. [Pete Robins 29.02.12]
12a. Balaclava 7B!
The harder and bolder left exit from the good holds on
Inkerman. Expect a few sketchy moments as you make the
transition around the top arête. [Pete Robins 29.02.12]
13. This Way Inclined 5C
The big, steep diagonal crack beckons – hop on board and
sample the classic of the crag. The sit down start boosts the
grade to 6A+. Purists will start right at the back in the
tight alcove. [Dafydd Davis 90s]
14. Frizbee 7A+
A powerful and fingery line sweeping leftwards across the
steep face. Start as for the Peniel Arête sit down start, but
swing left onto the face and follow the finger ramp line up
and move across left with increasing difficulty until it is
possible to reach and finish as for This Way Inclined. [Pete
Robins 29.02.12]
15. Peniel Arête 6A
The right arête of the steep face. 6B from a sit down start.
[Dafydd Davis 90s]
16. 5C
Crimpy climbing straight up the scoop and slab. [Dafydd Davis
90s]
17. The
A pumpy
sitting
the lip
[Dafydd
Pengwndwn Shuffle 6C
lip trip on the shadowy side of the boulder. Start
on the right with a comfortable mossy jam and trace
up leftwards, finishing into the top of Problem 16.
Davis 90s]
18. 5C
On the path side of the adjacent boulder there is a neat wall
problem.
Wander over leftwards for 25m to find:
19. 5C
A great problem up the arête; the landing does require care
though. The 6A low start adds some tricky moves.
20. 5C
The obvious crackline is very good. [Dafydd Davis 90s]
Just up behind is a high wall:
21. Plentyn Thatcher 5C!
Climb up the impressive arête then traverse off right at the
break to descend, or press on direct to a scary, heather
infested exit. [Dafydd Davis 90s]
The wall between the arête and the dirty crack goes at 6A.
The dirty crack was once climbed, but has since reverted to
nature. A couple of highball lines were also done up the wall
to the right, but these have the same type of scary heather
exits as Plentyn Thatcher.