WALKS NEWS pdf copy

ALL WALKS NEWS
34 Universities and Colleges from across the UK enter Diversity NOW!
Fashion embraces Body and Beauty Diversity
allwalks.org
FASHION FOR POSITIVE CHANGE
Celebrate & Educate
GRADUATE FASHION WEEK JUNE 1ST – 5TH 2013
A BROADER RANGE OF BODY AND BEAUTY
IDEALS? CREATIVES SPEAK! PAGE 2 AND 6
PLUS - Film Illustration Journalism Photography Zines Clothing Design
All Walks Beyond the Catwalk encourages Fashion For Positive Change
DIVERSITY NOW!
AND THE
FINALISTS
ARE...
FASHION FILM
Clara Rose Ravensbourne Kate
Sutton Solent University Southampton Rebecca Chambers Ravensbourne
Amy Bland Northumbria University
Nicolle Shergold & Nicola McKenna
University Of Central Lancashire
ILLUSTRATION
Megan Clinch Northumbria
University Lasha Demetrashvili
London College of Fashion Laura
Barker Leeds College of Art
Benjamin Sherwood Liverpool John
Moores University Aimee Beagrie
Northumbria University Hannah
Wallace New College Nottingham
Nicole McCartney University of West
England Bristol Georgia FowlerEvans Nottingham Trent University
“All Walks is relevant
today because
it brings back the importance of personal
identity.” Terry Jones,
Editor in Chief, i-D
Magazine
Rebecca Eland Northumbria University Finalist Photography
WHY
NOW?
Body Image is a hot topic right
now! And the fashion industry is
central to that debate.
Since co-founding our initiative in
2009, we continue to pioneer work
in this area. Our latest campaign
Diversity NOW! asks students to
use their fashion practice to carry a
message of inclusivity and diversity
as we believe broadening the range
of bodies and beauty ideals our
industry uses will make positive
contributions to self-esteem. So
let’s think big. We have the power
to influence other industries too
- beauty, music, film and TV
who also use fashion culture to
inform their branding. And let’s
think strategically. It’s a global
market - the consumer is diverse.
Body shape, ability, age and racial
representations could be good for
business. The projects you see here
are a small selection of nearly 500
competion entries from 34 colleges.
In writing, photographic image,
clothing design, film, illustration
and zine, the next generation of
image-makers, publishers, and
designers, embrace the power they
have to shape the future landscape
around buisness and well being.
They recognise the need for
Diversity NOW! Look we don’t
want to get heavy...we just want
Every Body to feel good, as well as
look good. Caryn Franklin,
Debra Bourne and Erin O’Connor
Co-Founders All Walks.
“A lot of our students commented that doing this
All Walks cluster of projects was like having therapy!
We will definitely be embedding Diversity NOW!
every year as it really opened our eyes to what our
students were thinking and feeling.”
Sarah Lewington, Principal Lecturer, Fashion Communication and Promotion,
Nottingham Trent University.
Brogan Toyn London College of Fashion Finalist Clothing Design.
All LCF photography by Anthony John Sayer
JOURNALISM
Lourdes Maria Acera Miguel London
Metropolitan University Jemima
Wilson Nottingham Trent University
Tracey Harris Staffordshire University Vanina Yankova Nottingham
Trent University Hannah Mason
Leeds College of Art Rebecca Eland
Northumbria University
PHOTOGRAPHY
Twinks Burnett The Arts
University College Bournemouth
Sarah Xuanyi Liu Central St
Martins Jessica Latchman
Basingstoke College of Technology
Sheraz Aslam London College of
Fashion Natalia Lipchanskaya London College of Fashion Peter Marsh
Leeds College of Art Rebecca Eland
Northumbria University Elena Kroell
Solent University Southampton Nk
Abani University of East London
Sophia Harding & Frankie McKernon
Solent University Southampton
Nathalie Watkins Solent University
Southampton Briony O’Connel
Solent University Southampton
Tori Heath Solent University
Southampton Luke Arthur Wells
University Of Central Lancashire
Natalia Lipchanskaya London College
of Fashion
Continued Page 2
2
ALL WALKS NEWS
FINALISTS continued.
ZINES
Tilly Sleven University of
Brighton Ashley Dean Nottingham
Trent University Chloe Taylor Nottingham Trent University
Sophie Marjoram Nottingham Trent
University Neha Bhushan The Arts
University College Bournemouth
CLOTHING DESIGN
ALL WALKS NEWS
Jiaqi Zhong Glasgow School of Art
Eleanor Paulin Edinburgh College
of Art Eleanor Paulin Edinburgh
College of Art Brogan Toyn London
College of Fashion Heather Dooley
Edinburgh College of Art Danya
Sjadzai University of Creative Arts
Epsom Jessica Ng London College
of Fashion Laura Worthington Nottingham Trent University Shabnam
Eslambolchi London College of
Fashion Georgina Mulholland The
Arts University College Bournemouth Andrew Dhesi Edinburgh
College of Art Sheraz Aslam London
College of Fashion Lasha Demetrashvili London College of Fashion
EMPOWERING
THE EMPOWERED
SPECIAL MENTION
ACCESSORIES
Roxanne Farahmann London College
of Fashion.
Rebecca Eland Northumbria
University Finalist Journalism
CREATIVES
SPEAK
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Students, lecturers, politicians, creatives even psychoanalysts have
something to say about the work we do at All Walks Beyond the Catwalk
“I wholly admire and support the endeavours of the All Walks Beyond the Catwalk
campaign.” RANKIN, Photographer
“All Walks is not only a crucial but an exciting project. The Fashion
Industry is capable of wondrous artistry and edginess and it is
wonderful to see the team bringing their considerable experience of
the fashion world to the visual representation of Body Diversity.”
Susie Orbach, Psychoanalyst
“All Walks Diversity NOW!
brings the customer into
the designers’ focus, either
through the personification
of design or catering to
individual desire at the
same time as addressing
real, practical needs. My
student’s enthusiasm for
this project is reflected in
their brilliant work and I’m
proud that we at London
College of Fashion have this
platform to express our
passion for identity”
Rob Phillips, Creative
Director, London College
of Fashion
“Un i ve r s itie s s hou ld inc lude as
mo du le - N ot O ption al—it ’s that
i mpo r t ant.” E mma L ouise
Pa u l in e M it che ll,W inches ter
S ch o ol of Ar t
Fashion For Positive Change
“I feel that it is important to
communicate publicly about the
diversity of our society and to
encourage a positive attitude
towards it. I am glad to have
contributed to All Walks's
intentions to inspire confidence
in individuals.” Tilly Sleven,
Finalist, University of Brighton
“This presentation
made me feel –
inspired, and excited
for change Society is
changing around us,
we must follow!”
Imogen Snell, Central
Saint Martins
“Yes we can promote a
body type that is healthy
and beautiful.”Kayt
Jones, Photographer
“Growing up in Scotland as a mixed race gay male enrolled in
Catholic schools, I know exactly how it feels not to fit in at all.
All Walks Diversity NOW! was important to me because I’ve
been the underdog and to help create acceptance for those
that feel marginalised would just be amazing.”
Andrew Dhesi, Finalist, Edinburgh College of Art
fashion scene. However, comparing her
work to Mario Testino’s highlights a
different and perhaps just as damaging
side of the industry. Testino, like Day,
I do actually enjoy admiring beauused his close friend Kate Moss as a
tifully crafted clothes on skinny
muse. There is a stark contrast in the
models. They are clotheshorses,
living mannequins there to do a job way Moss is portrayed through both
camera lenses. Where Day captured
only, to showcase and display the
her in a home- grown, dingy environdesigner’s clothes. And then I think,
ment with heroin chic undertones,
what if they were there to empower
Testino uses airbrushed glamour and
women instead of inducing wistful
longing. Perhaps there really is some- sex appeal in his images. Interestingly,
Moss was photoraphed nude by both
thing in individuality and diversity
that needs to surface far more often in photographers. The blonde, tanned
and sexualised images captured by
the fashion industry. Last year I had
the pleasure of interviewing the statu- Testino portray a stereotype idealism
of the female body. Then you have
esque and empowered Jessica Louise
Day, whose nude work of Moss is raw,
Abidde, a contestant from 2011’s
Britain’s Next Top Model. During the unedited and crude with pubic hair and
hip- bones on display. Yet Kate was
competition I enjoyed the reactions
she received from the industry on her only fifteen years old when the topless
tall and muscular build. Grace Wood- photos began. In August 2009, Kate
ward described her as “extraordinary” Moss was interviewed by SHOWStudio for their new candid and unique
and in return Abidde told me that it
interview format, “In Camera”. In the
was in fact “a surprise to get to my
interview Moss expresses her embaraudition and be praised for how difrassment over the use of topless images
ferent my body is”. She encapsulates
of her due to the fact she had been bulqualities of both an Amazonian godlied for being “so flat chested”.
dess and
“IS IT WRONG AND
She also discusses being conoriginal
stantly portrayed as “anorexic”
superEVEN PATHETIC
through the media, saying, “I
model,
TO WISH THAT WE
was really young and skinny
which
and some girls just are”. Kate
ultimately LOOKED LIKE
did not
SOMEBODY ELSE?” rose to fame at a time when we
started to see a move from the
win her
more “buxom girls” like Cindy Crawthe competition. It did however,
ford into fashion’s new favourite look,
make me aware that I was okay with
skinny. There was a definitive move
seeing a different kind of beautiful
towards the skinnier model in the mid
in the limelight, in fact I liked it and
90’s and as the general public we must
ultimately routed for her. In spite of
have bought into this perception of
this self-revelation, I still find myself
beauty at the time. Therefore, you may
drawn to the skin and bone look of
ask who are we to say designers can’t
so many models. My obsession with
use size ‘zero’ models and photograCorinne Day’s heroin chic photogphers that they can’t airbrush their imraphy sparked from a young age, a
ages when ultimately we are the ones
desire to be this fashionable image.
who continue to feed this hunger for
In my head clothes looked better on
perfection. We might say off hand that
skinny women, everything looked
we would like to see what we describe
better on skinny women. I first came
as “real women” on the catwalks,
across Day’s work in British Vogue
and we don’t want to see airbrushed
and when she passed away in 2010, I
imagery in our magazines. The sad
was devastated. I remember reading
that the fashion industry turned on her truth is that for whatever reason, we
seem fixated on this skinny idealism of
because of the shocking and controbeauty. Is it wrong and even pathetic
versial images she created. I couldn’t
to wish that we looked like somebody
understand it because I loved the
else and worryingly is there just a tiny
element of rawness in them. It’s now
part of us that enjoys this longing? Do
clear that the realism in those images
comes from a dark and personal place we like aspiring to look a certain way
in Day’s life, and that heroin chic per- and without this pinnacle of beauty that
the fashion industry provides, would
haps isn’t realism at all in the greater
we actually be discontent?
sense. Day’s work very much represented the look of the 90’s drugs and
Aimee Beagrie Northumbria University Finalist Illustration
3
A DANGEROUS OBSESSION WITH SCIENCE AND BEAUTY
themselves at risk in pursuit of what
they are led to believe is the perfect
body. Cosmetic surgery procedures and
Modern society has developed a dan- eating disorders are rife and self-esteem
gerous obsession with science and is at an all-time low. This is at odds with
beauty; a combination of powerful the image of an empowering society.
forces which, when combined, are al- In the Western World it is engrained
luring, seductive and mystifying. It is in our beliefs that we, as individuals,
human nature to be seduced by beauty are responsible for ‘making it happen’,
and to strive for self-improvement; to and in contemporary culture this ‘it’ is
push the boundaries of humanity to increasing associated with achieving
become stronger, faster and more de- physical perfection. With each one of us
sirable. We live in an innovative, pro- held responsible for our successes and
gressive society, constantly chasing the failures, the value of success should be
reward of the future, yet consequently, re-evaluated, with less emphasis placed
we are barely aware of the beauty of the on appearance as the dominant forpresent. Amidst
mula for personal
our rapid race to “REALITY IS NOT
achievement. It is
move
forward PERFECT, YET PERHAPS
important to conand
improve THE MOST MEANINGFUL
sider the nature
ourselves, it is
the society we
FORM OF BEAUTY LIES IN of
poignant to stop
are creating for
and think. About TRUTH.”
younger generabeauty. About the
tions; to analyse
future. About humanity. With eclectic the messages we are communicating
channels of creative expression per- about the true meaning of beauty and
meating the world around us, it seems the values of humanity. When I look
incongruous that we should limit our- at an image of a woman that has been
selves to portraying images which pro- subject to hours of meticulous manipumote narrow ideals of beauty, endorsing lation to erase any trace of imperfecunrealistic expectations of bodily per- tion, I don’t see perfection as a result.
fection to define socially acceptable ap- Instead I see someone who is sterile,
pearances. What about diversity? Such sinister and artificial. This goes for the
is the destructive nature of projecting faces I see which have been distorted
images of digitally constructed beauty by plastic surgery in order to imitate
in the media, body dissatisfaction is the look of a flawless image. I like to
now considered a normative discontent. see wrinkles to know that a person has
Considering that we live in a society laughed; I like to see scars to know that
which prides itself on empowering and a person has lived and I like to see flaws
inspiring its population, it seems repres- to know that a person is real. Reality is
sive and dysfunctional that women in not perfect, yet perhaps the most meanparticular are resorting to dangerous ingful form of beauty lies in truth. In
practices of self-destruction, putting the modern, cosmetically altered
Jemima Wilson Nottingham Trent
University Finalist Journalism
Sophia Harding & Frankie McKernon Solent University
Southampton Finalist Photography
THUNDER THIGHS
– sometimes – when I wore it but it
didn’t last long. The spiral perm at age
18 which lasted for years and I loved
Thunder Thighs they called me
it! The luxurious velvet black halter
in the PE class. Tree Trunk Legs.
neck dress with cream satin collar
Just to round off the compliments
worn to a big office party DO in Lon“walrus” was thrown in to the mix- don. Gorgeous it screamed. Scorching
ing pot - a distraction from my lower HOT. Do I look fat? Are my thighs and
body to my face. My grey school
legs BIG? I need to pee but don’t want
jumper was home to a generous pair
to leave the table because they’ll all
of expanding breasts. For some reason look at me. My beautiful little sister is
these were liked. Oh yes, one more...
told “you’re overweight”. She wasn’t.
“you’re like shit you are, YOU’RE
Her self image destroyed. Oh nurse
EVERYWHERE”.
what you have done. Another image
I was not obese. I was a
obsessed teenager is
healthy size and weight. “AM I SHALLOW?
made. On a Greek
I just wasn’t stick thin. AM I A PRODUCT OF
beach. Still a healthy
MY CHILDHOOD
I’m still not stick thin.
weight. Looking
Curvaceous, YES.
gorgeous in a green/
‘COMPLIMENTS’?
Rubenesque, definitely. IS IT MY EGO?”
white striped bikini
Obese, no, now mor(strapless) coverbidly obese. Is it any wonder I became ing my beautiful 34b puppies. Greek
image conscious? I’m walking down
man is salivating whilst I’m wearing
Stratford Road, Shirley. They’re all
my cardigan. How do I look? Selflooking at me. They’re ALL thinkconscious about my mouth: just far
ing “what does she look like”. The
how far do my teeth stick out? Keep
burgundy handmade dungarees were a my mouth closed so no-one can see
dream. No-one else had a pair. Unique. them. A serious look is created. “Cheer
That was my style. Did I think this at
up they said. Fuck off I thought. I see
the time? Absolutely NOT. The navy
size NORMAL. I want to be like that.
blue dress with huge white collar and I see size OBESE. “They shouldn’t
gold buttons. My ample bosom flateat so much”. “They’re like me eating
tered by the crossover top. Confident
on their feelings”. “They need to deal
Tracey Harris Staffordshire
University Finalist Journalism
woman, a monster has been created; her
skin is flawless, her lips are plump, her
cheeks are well-defined, but her face
lacks the capacity to express her emotions. With a countenance that defies
her inner feelings, she is barely human.
Advances in technology and science in
contemporary culture have enabled the
human race to strive towards achieving
the impossible. The conflict between
nature and culture has been prominent
since civilization began, yet never before has nature been defied or pushed
to such extremes as it is in our current
society. Experimenting with the configuration of the human body, we are
dabbling in the unknown. The threatening development of genetic modification for aesthetic enhancement is surely
a step too far? Attempting to re-code
the very building blocks of our existence is dangerous territory. Push nature
too much and she is sure to rebel. With
this in mind, I envision two potential
futures; one is an uncertain future in
which the face of beauty is homogeneous and manufactured; the other is an
exciting future in which beauty is representative of individuality and creativity. It is within our power to shape the
beauty of the future wisely, and responsibly, by challenging conventional notions of beauty and promoting images
which are beautiful regardless of race,
age, size or gender. We should portray
images which encourage self-esteem
rather than self-destruction, celebrating the eclecticism of natural beauty
which cannot be digitally constructed
on a computer screen or cosmetically
enhanced in a surgery.
Let us embrace Diversity. NOW.
Lasha Demetrashvili London College of Fashion
Finalist Clothing Design
with the root cause”. I see size STICK
THIN “they need a good meal”. Size
is everything. What do I see when
you appear? (1) your size, (2) your
colour, (3) your image. Apparently, I
shouldn’t, but I do. I am obsessed by
looks, mine and yours. Am I shallow?
Am I a product of my childhood ‘compliments’? Is it my ego? Today, aged
44 ½ years my favourite blue polo
neck jumped is adorning my bloated
body again. It’s so comfortable and so
long as I don’t look in that mirror I feel
great. Complete comfort I feel in my
clothes today. Just for today.
Maybe even just for this hour. I still
feel good in navy blue though. I know
it suits me as well. I know my colours.
The skinny new black trousers can’t
be worn with such a bloated belly. My
once expanding breasts are extending heading towards my belly button.
They do look fab though in some wired
fabric and I proudly parade them in a
new woollen dress.The passion killer
pants are holding in the belly. I look
good on the outside, but I can’t breathe
too well. There’s outrage and HEADLINES at Lena’s REGULAR legs. A
Hollywood Diet to be won on morning
TV.
Continued Back Cover
Fashion For Positive Change
A Selection
of Finalists
Georgia Fowler-Evans Nottingham Trent University Finalist Illustration
ABOVE L-R Nicole McCartney University of West England Bristol Finalist Illustration,
Lasha Demetrashvili London College of Fashion Finalist Illustration, Laura Barker Leeds
College of Art Finalist Illustration
ABOVE L-R Peter Marsh Leeds College of Art Finalist Photography, Briony O’Connell Solent
University Southampton Finalist Photography, Danya Sjadzai University of Creative
Arts Epsom Finalist Clothing Design, Benjamin Sherwood Liverpool John Moores
University Finalist Illustration
Sheraz Aslam London College of Fashion Finalist Clothing Design
Jessica Latchman Basingstoke College of Technology Finalist Photography
ABOVE L-R Sarah Xuanyi Liu Central St Martins Finalist Photography, Luke Arthur Wells University Of Central
Lancashire Finalist Photography, Shabnam Eslambolchi London College of Fashion Finalist Clothing Design,
Jessica Ng London College of Fashion Finalist Clothing Design
Sophia Harding & Frankie McKernon Solent
University Southampton Finalist Photography
Megan Clinch Northumbria University
Finalist Illustration
Eleanor Paulin Edinburgh College of Art
Finalist Clothing Design
Laura Worthington Nottingham Trent University Finalist Clothing Design
STOP PRESS!
Nearly 500 students
entered the first All
Walks, Diversity NOW!
In association with i-D
Magazine and
sponsored by Succeed
Foundation.
Hannah Wallace New College Nottingham
Finalist Illustration
Nathalie Watkins Solent University
Southampton Finalist Photography
Twinks Burnett The Arts University College Bournemouth Finalist Photography
Jiaqi Zhong Glasgow School of Art Finalist
Clothing Design
Our Graduate Fashion
Week display reveals
the depth of passion and
creativity which will be
judged by our panel of
industry supporters:
Designer William
Tempest, Couturier
Deborah Milner,
DisneyRollerGirl Blogger
Navaz Batliwalla, Illustrator Nuno Da Costa, Writer,
Designer and Brand
Consultant Jason Jules,
Body Image commentator Stephanie Heart, Film
Maker Kathryn Ferguson
and Photographer Kayt
Jones along with key
members of the i-D
editorial team and All
Walks team.
AWARDS
CEREMONY
Winners will be announced.
On Tuesday 4th at 4.30pm
in The Space (stand B14)
hosted by TV’s most stylish
Fashion Commentator
Grace Woodward. COME
AND JOIN US.
6
ALL WALKS NEWS
BISCUIT TIN
CREATIVES
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not too sure should make my face
tingle as much as they do and magical
cures for things I haven’t even got yet.
Her hair was flawless, bouncing tight Yes, as I said I do want to grow old
shining curls hair sprayed to perfec- gracefully but I have somehow, like
tion. Her favourite necklace nestled many women, ended up buying into
todays unattainable image of beauty.
on top of her duck egg blouse and
“The most inspirational presentation I’ve ever sat
If we had a world without Botox,
the dark grey skirt below hugged
through. Thank you for helping me realise that
her petite frame. She was beautiful. where everyone walked around withI’m not the only one who thinks differently.”
Even at seventy-seven. To my grand- out fearing that every laugh would
cause a line, would we be happier? The
mother image had no age limit; she
Tem Water, Southampton Solent University
world would be free of bust firming
loved life, loved her family and had
lotions and chemical peels, the image
a wardrobe that could rival anyone’s.
we have of ourselves and beauty itself
She was a woman not to be messed
with, strong and slightly neurotic with would change. Unfortunately it seems
we have travelled to
undiagnosed
OCD, but these “OUR FACES CHANGE far down the road of
image alteration for this
things and all
AND YES, WRINKLES
utopia. It’s hard, but
her experiences ARE INEVITABLE SO
being able to accept our
made her beautiWHY FEAR THEM?”
image now (even when
ful. Zimmer
we sometimes have to
frames, knitted
lie down and wriggle to do our jeans
cardigans, velour slippers and the
dreaded, get ready to whisper it; wrin- up) and with each developing wrinkle
“The most important thing is to have a confidence in what you are and not to
as we age would be a beautiful thing.
kles. That is what most of us think is
feel that you have to be like someone else; thinner, younger, blonder.
waiting for us as we age. When you’re Our faces change and yes, wrinkles are
Originality is the greatest treasure.” Alexandra Shulman, Editor,Vogue
young you look forward to milestones, inevitable so why fear them. For all the
pain that image and differences have
becoming a teenager, your first kiss,
caused, just accepting ourselves would
and being old enough to drink, but it
seems that when we reach our twenties be one step forward. When we look
“Thank you for
in the mirror in twenty years our reflecthis stops, we still hold onto excitechampioning
tion will show us every time we cried
ment for the big things like our wedsomething
that
with
laughter,
the
lines
around
our
eyes
ding day and buying our first home but
will remind us of squinting on bright
we all care about.”
it is then that we start to greet things
with fear. Dreading looming birthdays, summer days, we will have seen things
Colleen Ross,
using the same energy we used to use that made us gasp and that little glint in
UCA Epsom
for blowing out those candles to do an our eye will tell others that age is just
extra half an hour at the gym, fighting a number. Like everyone reading this,
off the years. When did age start being I want to think I’m beautiful. Even at
seventy-seven.
ugly? We live in a society that tells
us that youth is beauty, but I bet that
when you were little; I mean really
little, like the years when colourNatalia Lipchanskaya London College of Fashion Finalist Photography
“Inspiring – the most “What you have done
ing inside the lines wasn’t an option,
you pretended to be older. Wore your
appreciated presenta- and how you have
mum’s heels or put on makeup, wished
tion that has been given changed perceptions
to be old enough to go out by yourself
and ideology is extremely
to me in my whole time inspirational. Beautiful
and prayed to be tall enough to reach
the biscuit tin. But now instead of
at AUCB.” Rachel work.” Jenny Slater,
remembering those innocent hopes for
Brimacombe, The Arts Ravensbourne
age we are frightened into submission
University College at
by a barrage of perfectly airbrushed
celebs, making us feel like each photo
Bournemouth
of ourselves should in fact feature a
‘before’ heading. Fashion presents
“All Walks Beyond the Catwalk sets the
us with images of stick thin ‘women’
with perfect skin but you want to know
agenda for debate about diversity withwhy; because most of them are still not
grown up enough to reach that biscuit
in the fashion industry. Caryn, Debra
tin. Many of us however still aim for
and Erin are a powerful force for
that image, the impossible beauty
ideal. Image is what we show to the
change and it is inspiring to work
world, how we present ourselves,
with such passionate and pioneering
defined as a person’s ‘external form’,
so how has this caused so much pain;
women.” Jo Swinson, Minister for
wars created over skin colour, school
Women and Equalities
children bullied into silence because
their ginger hair shone too brightly.
Image is what we show the world,
who we are. Not something to be
"The presentation has "This issue needs to be
feared or ridiculed, our differences
made me feel very addressed more within
make us beautiful. Personally I want to
differently about the the fashion industry. It’s
be different, to age gracefully and let
my face show every smile, my hands
media. I’ve realised that important that students
show every scare and for my body to
I do have an opinion and like myself are not brainbe the ‘external form’ that represents
washed into one way of
that my opinion really
the inner me to the world. Without
thinking at an early age!"
does count." Jannaire Sophie Harry, Liverpool
wanting to sound like a hypocrite after
the last sentence I must confess that
Faulkner, South Essex John Moores University.
I am one of the many whose bathCollege.
room cupboard looks like a potions
lab, stacks of wrinkles creams, funny
smelling plumping lotions which I’m
Hannah Mason Leeds College of Art
Finalist Journalism
“It’s very important
that we question the
parameters that define
beauty. I’m thrilled to
support the All Walks
initiative.” Nick
Knight, Photographer
“The lecture was a real eye
opener. The fashion industry
has to start changing the way
it promotes itself.” Julia Mcrae,
Grays School of Art, Aberdeen.
“Absolutely bloody brilliant.
I genuinely felt emotional
after hearing the talk.”
Grace Quinn, Nottingham
Trent University
Fashion For Positive Change
GENDER GAMES
transgender super model and muse of
Givenchy, seem to be being played
under different rules than before. Previous gender-bending campaigns may
January 2013’s cover of Elle
be exemplified by the 1994 MAC Viva
Magazine, Serbia featured Andrej
Glam campaign fronted by infamous
Pejic. Although this may not seem
drag-queen RuPaul. This campaign
noteworthy, it was a piece of
seems different from the Pejic/Lea T
fashion history. Pejic was the first
phenomenon on at least two levels.
man ever to appear on the cover of this Firstly, Viva Glam is attached to the
women’s fashion magazine, moreover, MAC AIDS fund; there seems to be
he appeared looking, for all intents
some level of social awareness raising
and purposes, like a woman. Pejic has attached to the gender-bending, both
been making headlines for some time with regard to HIV/AIDS and the
now, notoriously for walking on both
link between this and homosexuality.
the men’s and women’s catwalks for
Secondly, the cross-dressing repreJean Paul Gaultier during Paris fashion sented in drag exacerbated traditional
week in January 2011. A number of
male and female roles, the drag queen
different fashion designers have been
being almost a caricature of a woman.
instrumental in
Today’s representhese changing
tations rather than
“WHY DO PEOPLE HAVE
representaTO DEFINE THEMSELVES? being exaggerated
tions of gender,
male and female
IS IT A SOCIETAL NEED TO images seem to be
Gaultier being
CONTROL THROUGH
high amongst
moving towards a
them. Gaultier
more unified male/
RECOGNITION?”
has shocked the
female through the
fashion world
androgynous. With
over the years with his designs, often
regard to the social aims of the MAC
by playing the gender game; he has
campaign it would also seem that this
challenged traditional representations is not the case in current campaigns,
of what depicts maleness and feminin- these images are displayed without
ity and used androgynous imagery.
any social connotations, the images
He has put men in clothes associated
represent beauty and display the fashwith women, as with the men-skirts
ion. The unifying of male and female
that he introduced in 1985; and he has representations in fashion is also being
put women in clothes traditionally
experienced through the exposure of
associated with men, in his fall 2007
what is referred to as the third gender,
fairy tale themed collection he had a
individuals who areconsidered, or
female ‘prince charming’, thereby not consider themselves to be neither
only dressing a woman as a man but
male nor female; these individuals
challenging established gender roles.
may also be considered both male and
Today’s gender games, involving
female. The exposure of this gender
Pejic and the likes of Lea T, the first
identity has moved beyond the fringes
Lourdes Maria Acera Miguel
London Metropolitan University
Finalist Journalism
of society into the mainstream, for
example, The Sunday Times Magazine
in January 2013 covered an upcoming
art exhibition looking at transexuals,
androgynous and the third gender. As
gender roles begging to be unified we
should ask why this is being done. Are
these images being displayed in order
to demonstrate to people that gender
roles, which are, after all, socially
constructed, need not be so fixed; that
it is acceptable for people to move the
traditional masculine/feminine binary?
Or, are these images that remain taboo
due to a lack of social acceptance for
what they portray and are therefore
being used as a shock marketing
tactic? Despite the seeming acceptance of the third gender there is also
a backlash against it. Pejic was voted
amongst FHM´s 100 sexiest women in
2011; despite the reader´s choice the
magazine rejected Pejic´s place on the
list and proceeded to insult the model
and his being considered a woman
as repulsive, stating: “Although his
sexual identity is ambiguous, designers
are hailing him as the next big thing.
We think "thing" is quite accurate. [...]
The blonde gender-bender has jumped
the gun in hoping he might one day
be signed as a Victoria's Secret Model
(Pass the sick bucket). Well, he might
have a hard time keeping it a secret
then”. Irrespective of whether people
complain about or embrace these gender representations such as the third
gender they are becoming increasingly prevalent and look like they will
continue to do so.
Regardless of why these representations are being displayed it is
refreshing to see the fashion industry
subverting the masculine/feminine
LIPSTICK AND DREAMS
gender boundary. Why do people have
to define themselves? Is it a societal
need to control through recognition?
Or is it a personal quest to reaffirm
ourselves in society?
It is positive to
promote gender as a unified human
representation, moving beyond male
and female. It must not be forgotten
though that this is a very Western
ALL WALKS NEWS
7
centric perspective. In many parts of
the world images such as the ones
mentioned here would be and are
considered to be either utterly unacceptable or are illegal. It is questionable, therefore, whether we are actually
ready for a third gender, whether the
game has actually ended.
Elena Kroell Solent University Southampton Finalist Photography
of the need to eliminate them in order
to be considered beautiful. It is true
that every once in a while there will
be media buzz generated around the
use of an older or a ‘plus-size model’.
However placing these few different
and others - an extravagant sports car. themselves: with a colorful palette
Vanina Yankova Nottingham Trent
bodies in-between a mass of perfect
Make up can be like a shell concealing of possibilities, You are the Artist,
University Finalist Journalism
imagery it only asserts their imperfectYou are your own Subject’. ‘Express
and protecting our deepest secrets, a
ness, their out-of-place-ness. Rather
My lipstick is bright shade of juicy
shiny package to present to the world. Yourself!’, ‘Because You’re Worth
than validating diversity the effect is
coral red. Its bold colour reminds
At first glance it’s oh-so-superficial.
It!’, ‘Be Unique!’ – we are constantly often that of a circus freak, standing
But as with all good design our image reminded we are special and have the out from the crowd of ‘normality’.
me of ripe tomatoes, the pungent
can communicate messages about our right to express our individuality. It
aroma of tropical flowers and the
Freaks however are not born but made,
personality on a much deeper level.
all sounds very empowering. And the freakishness a social construction crescorching hot Barcelona sun. Its
shiny metal packaging slots in like
No matter how polished or rough, it is wide range of products “OUR SOCIETY IS SO
ated by our own
a bullet in a revolver. I bought it in
not just a decorative layer with purely and services available
OPEN AND ACCEPTING OF perspective. It
aesthetic qualities. Its luster or lack of provide us with almost
the spur of the moment at an airport
is up to us then
BEAUTY IN ALL ITS FORMS
can suggest ideas about the inner self, unlimited choice when
drugstore on the way to my first ever
to change the
its features exposing fragments of our it comes to appearance. WHEN IT COMES TO ART,
job interview as a way to calm my
way we repreDESIGN, EVEN FASHION.
personality. Like a wall that we build, Why is it then that in
nerves and get a much-needed boost
sent and view
our choices most of us YET WHEN IT COMES
to my shaky confidence. I got the job
protecting our personal space while
them. Don’t get
simultaneously advertising what lies
seem to stick to a pre- TO THE HUMAN BODY.”
and it has been with me ever since,
me wrong: I
within. And building it is an ongodefined beauty standtraveling from bag to bag as I travel
am fully aware
WE SUDDENLY BECOME
ard? Our society is so NARROW-MINDED
ing project. In Simone de Beauvoir’s
from place to place. I only wear it
the fashion
open and accepting of
occasionally, mostly when I’m feeling words ‘to lose confidence in one’s
and beauty
beauty in all its forms when it comes to industry’s job is to manufacture dreams
down, tired and in need to inject some body is to lose confidence in one’s
energy and confidence in my life. I use self’. We use cosmetics to achieve the art, design, even fashion. Yet when it
we can escape into from our mundane
it to absorb the attention away from the look we believe best corresponds what comes to the human body we suddenly lives. Illusion is what we expect and
already exists inside, waiting to be
become narrow-minded. Even the most the last thing I want to see when I open
tired bags under my eyes, the insecuextravagant and boundary-pushing
discovered. Recently M.A.C. teamed
rity in my voice or the ladder in my
the pages of a magazine is reality. I
tights. It is a statement piece and with up with Cindy Sherman in a campaign fashions are mostly presented on
want to see an alternative world filled
it on I feel like a peacock, flaunting
focused around the Power of Transfor- sample-sized bodies with wrinkle-free with beauty. However I want it to be
the splash of colour like an art piece
mation: ‘We’re living in a time when
skin. We are bombarded with images
beauty we can feel good about, diverse
of apparent perfection reminding us of and open-minded. And that requires a
in a gallery, the same way some would people have become bolder than ever
our own imperfections, convincing us shift of focus from perfection to indiflaunt an extravagant piece of jewelry about the way they chose to express
viduality and authenticity. In the words
of Paralympics medalist Aimee Mulins
‘a prostatic limb does not represent the
need to replace loss anymore. It can
stand as a symbol that the wearer has
the power to create whatever it is they
want to create in that space. People
that society once considered to be disabled can now become the architects of
their own identities’ . There is nothing
wrong with celebrating the beauty of
youth through the baby-faced slenderbodied models that inhabit the pages of
magazines. However alongside them
we need to be presented with alternative beauty examples to be considered
just as valid. To be able to flaunt our
voluptuous and curves the same way
we bare our slender legs and flat
stomach. To be admired for our afro/
frizzy/lack of hair the same way we
would be for our sleek locks. To freely
choose between banishing our wrinkles
and cherishing them as signs of our
experience and achievements . To
celebrate diversity and uniqueness as
an achievement rather than disability.
I believe society is ready to accept
different kinds of beauty. And that we
have the tools to make it happen. We
can use these tools to establish the next
beauty trend, the new ‘it-brow’, the
lipstick shade of the moment. Or we
can use them to establish individuality
and diversity as a beauty trend to last.
Fashion For Positive Change
T HUN DE R T HIG H S
Continued.
Texts from slimming groups shouting
come back. Plus size models appearing – plus what size? Who decides
what’s a plus size? Encouraged to lose
weight, get a Hollywood body, fake
tan, white teeth, fake nails, designer
bags, designer phones, designer vaginas. Britney’s back and looking soo
not perfect but how wonderful to see
that – she seems more real to me now.
What will it take for the obsession with
image to be lifted?
A life threatening diagnosis? It’s an
inside job for me. Ditch the ego, ditch
the mirror, accept myself for who I am
and maybe I won’t care what I look
like. Accept others for their insides
not their outsides. See the good in
people, not the bad. Look at my own
defects before looking for others. More
real life models for beauty campaigns
(good one Dove!). More TV presenters with wrinkles and disabilities and
make the Paralympic sports presenters
a permanent fixture not just every 4
years.
In June 2011, we launched the Edinburgh College of Art and All Walks
Beyond the Catwalk,
Diversity Network with the help of
Government Minister Lynne Featherstone at Graduate Fashion Week.
It continues to be an important hub
for developing innovative educational
methods, and promoting a positive
attitude to body diversity within
fashion education. We are delighted
to be working with Mal Burkinshaw
MA (RCA): Director of the Diversity
Network and Programme Director
of Fashion, Edinburgh College of
Art, University of Edinburgh, who
says.“The Diversity Network fully
commits to sustaining an academic
promotion of diversity, as all members
feel passionate that this is one of the
most appropriate and necessary movements in modern design education. I
will endeavor to lead this within ECA
by developing our core curriculum
projects based on the philosophy of
‘emotionally considerate design.’
There will be further emphasis on this
within the early stages of the curriculum in order to impress the need for
a new way of thinking about design
from the start of the course. This way
the students will, by their final stages
of their education, consider diversity
as an inherently natural part of design
process and product.While I recognize
that students will engage with industry
pressure to conform to standard modes
of practice once they graduate, I feel
strongly that we must encourage
thinking ‘outside the box,’ in order to
activate an independent and inquiring
mind. Maverick thinkers are the ones
who take forward new ideas. Sustainable sourcing has now become an issue
for most big brands, but it began as a
conscious thought.”
“Sustainable body and beauty ideals are currently in the ‘conscious thought phase,’ it is
only a matter of time before they find their
way into the commercial arena.” Mal
Burkinshaw, Director, Diversity Network
Diversity
Network
AND FINALLY...
We are often asked why the
voluntary work of All Walks is
significant and we can only answer
from the heart.
We never under estimate the power that
fashion industry has to influence the
self esteem of its audience. That’s why
we ask the next generation to consider
their impact, their messaging and the
responsibility they have to create positive body ideals. Our work is not just in
education but also advocacy. Working
as members of the steering committee within the All Party Parliamentary
Group on Body Image, we co-produced
the first ever Body Confidence Awards
at Parliament in which the All Walks
Visionary Fashion Award was presented to designer Mark Fast. Debenhams
were also recognized for their inclusive
marketing and in store messaging.
ALL WALKS NEWS
Co Founders Caryn Franklin, Debra Bourne, Erin O’Connor
Graphic Design Lizzie Biggs
Project Production Tineke De Freitas, Ooffii Hardwick
All Walks Team Michael Williamson, Charlotte Gush, Sheron
Williams, Charmaine Jade Ayden, Samantha Kay Oliver, Cassie
Criddell, Rachel Holland
Diversity NOW! would absolutely not have been possible without the
passion and commitment of hundreds and hundreds of students and
tutors in 34 universities and colleges up and down the UK. Huge thanks.
Special thanks to our sponsor Succeed Foundation
Karine Berthou Succeed Foundation.
Sarah Raphael and Tricia Jones i-D Magazine.
Katie Dominy and Alex Brownless Arts Thread for competition hosting.
Julia Goga Cooke Own Label.
Mal Burkinshaw Director of Diversity Network.
Martyn Roberts Graduate Fashion Week.
Rosemary Ferrier Newspaper Club www.newspaperclub.com for cruical
support and printing of the ALL WALKS NEWS.
“We have been a supporter of the
All Walks philosophy for over 3 years
and have rewritten the Course Curriculum to make “All Walks” integral
to the content of what we do. The
students are truly engaged with the
opportunity to question existing practices in the Fashion Industry and to
celebrate beauty in all it’s forms.”
Anne Chaisty, Course Leader,
Womenswear, Arts University
College, Bournemouth
“The All Walks
presentation is one of
the best lectures that I
have ever heard.” Judith
Watt, Course Director,
MA Fashion Journalism,
Kingston University
Design School
“A very powerful and truly inspirational presentation, motivating people to look beyond what they have been brought up to
believe is the ‘ideal’. All Walks encourages people to open their
eyes to the real world and real people and I think this campaign
will do no end of good in improving the industry’s reputation
and people’s lives for the better. Thank you!” Mair-Louise Rudd
BA2 Fashion Apparel Design and Construction, Coleg Sir Gar
“Phenomenal presentation. Truly
brilliant – dynamic, inspiring, thoughtprovoking. Created a huge buzz amongst
the students.” Elizabeth Tomos, Fine Art
Contemporary Practice Course Leader &
Critical & Contextual Studies Lecturer,
Camarthanshire College
"The All Walks presentation didnt force
any opinions on me but it made me
aware that I will have a responsibility to be conscious through my design
work." Stefani Nurding, Plymouth College of Art
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Small cover inset image 1 Holly Clark Arts University College Bournemouth, small cover inset image 2
Rankin, back cover inset image 3 Nick Knight and Erin O’Connor, all other images and work individually
credited as Finalists of Diversity NOW! All enquiries [email protected] Website www.allwalks.org