Penny`s Perfect Ankle Footie Sock by Dianna for CoolKatsInGlasses

Penny’s Perfect Ankle Footie Sock by Dianna for CoolKatsInGlasses.com June 7, 2015 This footie or anklet sock is made with an elasticized yarn. I used Cascade Fixation which is a DK weight cotton yarn blended with elastic and has a lot of stretch. To test a different yarn, take the end of a piece of yarn and put it on the 0 mark of a ruler. Without stretching, pull out 3 inches. Now, at the 3 inch mark, while still holding the end at the 0, stretch those 3 inches of yarn. It should stretch to 6 inches, giving the yarn a 100% stretchability. Finished size: Women’s size 6 to 9. Skill level: Intermediate Stitches/Techniques used: Single Crochet, SC Decrease. Materials: ● 2­50gram balls of Cascade Fixation DK weight yarn (approx 200 yards relaxed) to make one pair of socks. ● Size F (3.75mm)crochet hook ● Yarn needle for sewing the toe ● Stitch marker Sorry, no gauge, but try to shoot for these measurements: ● ribbing piece, flat, before seaming in the round­­7”. This is adjustable. ● Heel piece measures approximately 1.5” long by 2.5” wide. ● From the bottom of the ribbing to the end of the toe measures 7”. This, too, is adjustable ● Circumference around the instep is about 8”. This is adjustable­­just don’t skip the 5 sts as instructed below on rnd 1 of the heel/gusset. Notes: This project has no stops and starts, save the toe seam. It begins with the ribbing worked flat, back and forth. While still in work, the ribbing is then joined in the round with 5 scs. The heel and rest of the foot are worked in the round, without joining rounds, so you may want to keep track of your rounds with a stitch marker. I don’t like to have to concentrate on counting stitches­­too many interruptions during my day, so I don’t. I just count rounds and measure as I go. Try not to stretch the yarn as you stitch, and try to stitch moderately loose. I tend to crochet somewhat tightly as when making amigurumi. Lighten up! If you crochet too tightly, the sock won’t stretch when you’re done. Ribbing: Row 1: Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch. Ch 1, turn. Row 2: Sc in back loop of each st across, ch 1, turn (5sts) Repeat row 2 until you achieve desired length of ribbing. Join with slsts to form a ring. Begin working in the ends of the rows. Heel and Gusset Shaping: Rnd 1: Ch1, sc in the ends of each row around MINUS 5 STS­­Plan to skip 5 row­ends evenly around, join with slst in first ch1. ROW 2: Ch 1, sc in first 8 sts, ch 1, turn. ROW 3: 2 sc in first st, sc in ea st to the last sc, 2sc in last st, ch 1, turn. ROW 4: 2 sc in first st, sc in ea st to the last sc, 2 sc in last st, ch 1, turn. ROW 5 & 6: Repeat rnd 4. End with 16 sts. ROW 7­9: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (16 sts) ROW 10: Miss 1st st, sc in each to the last 2 sc, miss first sc, sc in last st. (14 sc) DO NOT TURN. (Back to working in rounds without joining): Rnd 1: Ch1, sc in the ends of 10 rows, sc2tog (at the top of heel/gusset and ribbing) twice, sc in remaining rows of the ribbing to the other side of the heel/gusset. SC2tog twice at opposite spot as earlier to keep the decreases even on this round. Sc in the sides of the last 10 rows, miss the sc at the bottom of the heel/gusset, sc in the center set of sts to the last st before you started this round. Put a marker in the last st you just completed, leaving the last st on row 10 unworked. Rnd 2: Sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog, sc around to other side of heel and sc2tog over the 2nd decrease on rnd 1.( In other words, decrease over each decrease from round one favoring the heel (see pictures A1 & A2 below), not the ribbing to make the decrease. After round 2, it is easy to see where to make the decreases.) Sc in the next 10 sts on other side of the heel, sc last 12 sts across to marker. Rnd 3­10: Sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog, sc around to other side of heel and sc2tog, sc the next 10 sts (side of the heel), sc over last 12 sts to the marker. Instep:​
We will decrease a total of 4 sts over the next 4 rounds. Make your decrease sts in the middle of the heel, which would be the bottom of the heel. See Picture “B” below. Rnd 1: Sc in each st around to about the middle of the heel, sc2tog, sc in last sts to the marked st. Rnd 2­4: Repeat rnd 1. Rest of the foot: Rounds 1­22 (more or less until foot measures about 2 inches from the toes): Sc in each st around. Rnd 23 & 24: Sc2tog. End off, leave enough of strand to sew toe. Flatten the sock with the heel towards you and the toe opening at the top. You want to sew the toe seam parallel to the width plane of the heel. Turn inside out and stitch the toe closed with whipstitch. Weave in the loose ends. Pictures A1 & A2. You can see the line along side of the heel. These are the decreases “favoring the heel.” Picture B. What appears to be a bump in the center of the heel, is where the 4 decreases are made. Comfortable without shoes or in tennis shoes! Copyright 2015 Dianna Johnson­Hall, ​
CoolKatsInGlasses.com​
., a subsidiary of GroovyTuesdaysPatternShack.com​
and ​
WPRanchllc.com​
. Please do not use my pictures nor my pattern as your own. You may sell the socks you make, but please give credit to me by posting a link to my website or putting it on your tags/labels. ​
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rn Shack​
.com If you have any questions or find any mistakes (OMG! Surely NOT!) please feel free to email me. I’ll do my best to answer your concerns. Thank you!