How does nordic skiing differ from alpine skiing? nordic alpine

1 How does nordic skiing differ from alpine skiing?
nordic
Skis are design for both uphill and downhill travel.
Skis need to both grip and glide.
Bindings are ‘free heel’ to allow for a natural stride.
Muscled powered accent = weight matters.
Engineered for a balance of tracking straight, climbing
efficiency, turning and speed. Lots of different gear
built for different terrains and conditions.
Poles are used for timing and propulsion.
Both groomed and off trail snow conditions, variable.
alpine
Gravity assisted downhill travel.
Skis only need to glide, grip causes problems.
Bindings are ‘fixed heel‘ for maximum stability.
Lift serviced accent = weight is less of a penalty.
Engineered for easy turning and stability at speed.
Most brands of ski look the same, all built for similar
terrain.
Poles are used mostly for timing.
Groomed snow = more predictable conditions.
free your heel and your mind will follow..
2 The Wide Range of Nordic Skiing Styles
our area of interest
skate skiing
performance XC
recreational XC
equipment gets lighter for speed
groomed snow surface
terrain is flat to moderate hills
backcountry touring
telemark
alpine touring AT
equipment gets heavier for strength and stability
less predictable “off trail” snow conditions
terrain is flat to steep hills
3 The Anatomy of a Ski
side cut = The curve built into the edge of a ski, this effect how the ski turns. Nordic skis vary from straight (no side cut) to lots of side cut (parabolic) camber = The curve built into the bottom of the ski, this effects how pressure is distributed along the ski length. Nordic skis can be ‘single camber’ or ‘double camber’. rocker = A reverse curve built into the tip and sometimes the tail of a ski. This effects the floatation and carving of a ski. A recent innovation, more common on alpine and telemark gear, but being introduced on some backcountry and tele boards. 4 Kick Zone vs. Glide Zone
how nordic skis work, getting both grip and glide from one ski
a typical double camber ski
glide zone hard wax for glide kick zone grip provided by a textured base or a special sticky wax glide zone hard wax for glide 5 picture of a textured ‘waxless’ base
Also referred to as ‘No-Wax’ base or ‘fish scales’
A simple nordic wax kit
cork for spreading and polishing wax scraper for removing wax basic kick wax selection red = warm day blue = average day green = cold cold The most commonly used wax for snow conditions in Colorado. SWIX ‘extra-­‐blue’ or VR-­‐
40. I use this 4 out of 5 days. It’s worth owning some. 6 Climbing Skins
another way to get traction
Climbing Skins = Are adhesive backed strips of cloth that are applied to the base of a ski to provide traction. Hairs on
the surface all point in one direction, they slide easily in the forward direction and dig into the snow in the backward
direction. They essentially turn your skis into long snowshoes.
Great for steep terrain or trips where you climb up to the lunch spot and ski down on the return trip. Not so great for
rolling hills since taking them on and off can be a hassle. The only way to climb with a single camber ski. There are
special waxes for skins to improve glide and prevent snow build up. Look for ‘glop stopper’ at your favorite
Nordic shop or on-line.
7 Waxless or Waxable, which is right for me?
Waxless Bases require less preparation and work consistently in a wide range of snow conditions. As a result they are
often a good choice for beginners.
Waxable Bases require daily preparation to match the grip wax to specific snow temperature and conditions. However,
a correctly prepared wax able ski will significantly out perform a fish scale type ski. Fortunately the conditions in
Colorado are fairly easy to wax for and you can get by with just a few wax types.
In warm spring conditions the snow texture is highly variable making wax selection difficult , fish scales often work
better in these conditions.
Note: ALL SKIS need to be waxed occasionally to keep the base in good condition. Waxless doesn’t mean ‘never use
wax’ it just means you don’t use sticky grip waxes to provide traction. A universal glide wax in paste or liquid form
works well for this.
A typical universal glide wax. Great for
waxless skis tip to tail and the glide
zones of other skis. This version comes
in a handy ‘shoe polish’ type can which
is spill proof and fits easily into a pocket.
Just wipe it on, wait a few seconds for it
to dry and go ski ! 8 Nordic Boots
a compromise between weight and stability
a range of nordic ski boots
light and fast -- more stable -- powerful but harder to climb in
better for groomed trails
better for off trail
9 Nordic Bindings
bindings must match the boot
a selection of XC touring bindings
NNN = new nordic norm NIS = a new mounting system that doesn’t use screws, fits NNN boots SNS profile = salomon nordic system 75mm three pin -­‐-­‐-­‐ light duty wire bale for thin sole boots note: this style of binding has a right and left 10 Nordic Bindings
bindings must match the boot
a selection of backcountry bindings
NNN BC = new nordic norm backcountry SNS-­‐BC = salomon nordic system backcountry renamed SNS Xadv (hard to find locally) heavy duty 75mm three pin binding or tele cable binding note: this style of binding has a right and left 11 Typical XC light touring setup
nordic style grip with adjustable strap small offset basket for low pole angles on groomed trails long skinny skis, optimized for glide efficiency and straight running in prepared tracks. No metal edges to save weight. Warning, nordic poles have sharp carbon steel tips, not blunt like alpine poles! light flexible boot with NNN or SNS binding 12 Typical XC heavy touring setup
nordic style grip with adjustable strap wider, shorter ski with metal edges and some side cut. Still optimized for gliding over turning. Skinny enough to fit in prepared track but stable enough for off trail use. adjustable pole, long for the flats and up hills, shorter for down hills bigger powder basket for softer snow heavier boot with extra ankle support NNN-­‐BC, SNS-­‐BC or 3 pin binding Avoid alpine style poles with fixed straps, blunted tips and little star shaped baskets. They suck for climbing! 13 Typical backcountry setup
Wider, slightly shorter ski with metal edges more side cut for easier turns. Might be too wide to fit in prepared track heavy duty 3 pin binding Stiffer plastic or leather boot for extra control in off trail conditions, hinge at ankle aids forward flex when climbing. Nordic style grip with adjustable strap adjustable pole, some versions can double as an avalanche probe big powder basket with offset, good for hard and soft snow! 14 Typical telemark setup
Beefy plastic boots, look for a toe bellows and cable groove in the heel. Careful, too much built-­‐in forward lean will burn your legs on the climb! Fat wide skis with metal edges, single camber and lots of side cut, maybe even some tip rocker. Your giving up glide and climbing efficiency for more turning power. You will need climbing skins for up hill travel. Also suitable for lift serviced runs. Nordic style grip with adjustable strap Adjustable pole, some versions can double as an avalanche probe Cable binding with heavy duty toe piece. Some versions have safety release and ski brakes. Climbing bar, flips up to change boot position helps when climbing steep hills over 30 degrees incline. Riser platforms lift the boot up and provide extra leverage for edging fat wide skis. 15 Old School Method of Sizing Skis and Poles
works for all poles, but only for traditional classic skis
traditional classic
skis should come to
the wrist of a raised
arm
poles for downhill
travel should fit in the
hand with the elbow
bent to 90 degrees
poles for flats & climbing
should fit tight under the
armpit 16 Ski Size by Weight, Using the Paper Test
very accurate, works for all types of double camber skis
ski balance point
sometimes marked on
the top at the factory
The grip zone should
extend about 5 cm in
front of your toes and
behind your heel
1. Find the ski balance point and mark it with a piece of tape.
2. Place the skis on a hard flat surface.
3. Stand on the skis with your toes at the balance point, with
your weight evenly distributed on both feet.
4. Have a friend place a sheet of paper underneath each ski,
the paper should slide easily under the whole foot from
toes to heel.
5. Slide the paper to the middle of one foot and shift all your
weight to that foot, the paper should be trapped and
unable to move.
6. Repeat step 5 with the other foot.
7. If the skis pass test 5 and 6 they are a good fit for your
weight. You will be able to make the skis grip or glide
by shifting your weight.
If you can’t slide the paper with even weight on both feet, the
ski is too soft (or short) and it won’t glide well.
If you can’t trap the paper with all the weight on one foot, the
ski is too stiff (or long) and you won’t get enough grip.
17 Ski Size by Weight, Using Manufactures Chart
more accurate, works for all types of skis
this chart is for Madshus brand