race face® x-type bearing system

Transcription

enduro fork seals .com
PICTORIAL INSTALLATION MANUAL
ENDURO® OUTBOARD BOTTOM
BRACKET REBUILD KIT
REAL WORLD CYCLING
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE
RACE FACE® X-TYPE BEARING SYSTEM
RECOMMENDED TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
• Enduro® Outboard Bearing Replacement Kit
• Bottom Bracket Bearing Puller/Press Tool
• 8mm Allen wrench
• 10mm Allen wrench
• Outboard bearing cup tool (Park BBT-9 or similar)
• Rubber-faced mallet
• “Pocket” screw driver (very small, flat blade)
• Silicone grease or anti-seize compound
• Torque wrench
©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com
All rights reserved.
1
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
NOTE: REMOVE YOUR BICYCLE CHAIN BEFORE BEGINNING
1) Loosen the right side crank
arm and spider assembly using an 8mm
Allen wrench (turn counter-clockwise).
1
NOTE: The 8mm wrench will pass straight
through the 10mm hex in the extractor
cap, which is to be left in place.
2
2
2) Remove right crank arm
and spider assembly.
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
3) Remove left crank
arm and spindle assembly.
a) Remove all the drive side
spacers, making a note of
them for re-assembly.
3a
3b
b) Use a rubber mallet to
“start” the spindle if it won’t
pull out by hand.
c) Set the left crank arm and
spindle assembly aside.
3c
3
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
4) Remove the left, or
non-drive side bearing
cup.
Make a note of the spacers
for re-assembly.
6) Place a large
screwdriver into the
“V” opening of the
puller and use it as a
“T” handle to pull the
dust cap off. Repeat
for the other side.
4
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
5) Remove the DRIVE
(right) side cup.
a) Turn the bottom bracket cup
wrench clockwise.
5a
5b
b) Set the inner sleeve and the spacers aside (take note of the spacers for proper re-assembly).
5
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
6) Set one of the bearing cups down
on a flat surface and insert the Collet
from the Bearing Puller/Press Tool.
“COLLET”
Insert the collet narrow-end-first. The rubber ring holding the collet halves together is
not necessary. Particularly when removing
bearings from the Race Face cups, it will be
easier to expand the collet with the rubber
ring removed.
“COLLET
EXPANDER”
7) Start the collet expander into
the collet.
6
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
8) Apply pressure to the Collet Expander until it “seats” between the
collet halves.
If you encounter difficulty in
getting the expander to seat
between the collet halves, lift
the cup off of the flat surface
and push on the expander until it
fully seats as shown.
7
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
9) Set the bearing cup (with
collet and expander) into the
Cup Holder.
“CUP
HOLDER”
10) Press out the bearing and
plastic cap by inserting the
Bolt and using an 8mm Allen
wrench to turn it clockwise
until you hear and feel the
bearing “drop out” of the cup.
8
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
11) Lift the cup off of the Collet Expander.
12) Unthread the
Bolt from the
Cup Holder and
remove the old
bearing and plastic cap.
9
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
13) Remove the
sealing ring from the
outer circumference
of the bearing cup.
( If not removed, this ring
will interfere with the new
sealing system)
“BEARING GUIDE”
14) Place one of the
bearings from the
Enduro® Kit onto
the 24mm side of the
Bearing Guide.
(The other side of the Guide
is for installing OE bearings)
10
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
15) Place the Bearing
Guide into the Cup Holder.
16) Place the bearing
cup on top of the new
bearing.
11
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
“SUPPORT”
17) Place the Support into the
threaded end of the bearing
cup.
18) Insert the Bolt and turn it
clockwise with the 8mm Allen
wrench until it “bottoms.”
Then, remove the bolt and take
out the bearing cup.
12
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
19) The bearing will not yet be fully seated in the cup. To
accomplish this, place the old bearing in the Guide and repeat
the pressing process as shown in “A-E” below:
“BEFORE”
B
A
C
“AFTER”
E
D
13
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
20) Re-install the left (non-drive side) cup and spacer(s).
a) Apply anti-seize compound to the
cup threads.
b) Replace original spacer(s).
c) Start the cup into the frame by
hand. The left side threads in normally (clockwise).
d) Use a proper BB Cup Tool
to tighten the cup firmly in
place.
14
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
21) Re-install the right (drive
side) cup and spacer(s).
Remember:
1) Apply anti-seize to the cup threads.
2) Replace the proper number of spacers.
3) Install the inner sleeve!
Remember that the drive side cup
has reverse, or left-hand threads.
Tighten by turning counter-clockwise.
You will notice that the Enduro® BB
system does not use plastic shims
for the spindle. The inner race of
our bearings has a smaller ID that
directly contacts the spindle. This
allows room for larger ball bearings,
improving strength and stiffness.
15
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
22) Place a seal on the spindle and slide it up to the left crank arm spacers.
Orient the seal so that the silicone side will face away from the bearing.
23) Lubricate the spindle with grease and insert it through the bearings (starting with the
left cup!).
If your bike’s bottom bracket
faces are parallel and the bearings are properly seated, the
spindle should line up with
the opposite bearing and come
through with very little effort.
If you encounter some resistance, be sure the spindle is
lined up and then tap the left
crank arm with the heel of your
hand to help it through.
16
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
24) Place the other
seal over the end of
the spindle and slide
it up to the bearing.
25) Replace the
original spacers.
17
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
26) For easier driveside installation,
remove the crank
extraction cap from
the crank arm. Turn
the cap clockwise
with a 10mm Allen
wrench to loosen.
“EXTRACTOR CAP”
With the crank extractor cap
removed, the crank bolt can be
removed.
“CRANK BOLT”
18
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
27) Lubricate the spindle
splines and crank bolt threads.
28) Aline the splines
and start the drive
side assembly onto
the spindle.
29) Start the crank bolt
by hand (it threads in
clockwise).
30) Tighten the crank bolt until the splines
“bottom out.” Final torque should be 30 Foot
Pounds (NOT Inch Pounds).
NOTE: IF YOU NOTICE ANY UNUSUAL TIGHTNESS, OR
IF THERE IS TOO MUCH PLAY, PLEASE SEE THE FACTORY TROUBLE-SHOOTING GUIDE ON PAGE 21.
19
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
31) Lube the threads of the extractor
cap and thread it into the crank arm.
Remember it has left-hand threads, so
turn counter-clockwise.
32) Tighten the extractor cap by turning
it counter-clockwise
with a 10mm Allen
wrench. Maximum
torque is 160 Inch
Pounds. Remember
that the purpose of this
cap is just to make the
crank bolt self-extracting. It is not helping
to keep the crank arm
attached, so not much
torque is required.
Replace the chain and
go ride!
20
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
RACE FACE® FACTORY TROUBLE-SHOOTING GUIDE
CONDITION:
CAUSE:
FIX:
ASSEMBLY
“TOO TIGHT”
• BB shell width too wide
(out of tolerance)
1) Ensure BB shell threads are chased cleanly and that BB shell is faced (after
painting).
• Excessive Rotational Friction
(beyond reasonable amount of
initial seal drag)
• BB shell not faced or
milled correctly to remove all paint
2) Ensure BB shell width is within tolerance. If too wide, face-mill BB shell
down until it is within required spec.
• Bearing SideLoading
Apparent
• BB shell threads misaligned
• Extra chainline spacer
is mistakenly added.
• Assembly tolerance
stack-up on all parts
3) If #1 and #2 above are correct, proceed to on the of the following options:
OPTION 1:
- Remove assembly from bike.
- Remove 1 x 1mm chainline spacer (preferably from non-drive side so chainline isn’t affected).
- Re-install remaining spacers and re-install assembly into bike as per installation instructions #5 and #6 above.
OPTION 2:
- Remove all spacers and seals from LH (non-drive) side of spindle assembly.
- Remove 3.5mm Quad-Ring preload elastomer from recess in LH crank and
replace with supplied 2.5mm pre-load elastomer (flat shape, black rubber)
into recess in LH crank.
- Re-install spacers and re-install assembly into bike as per installation instructions #5 and #6 above.
CONDITION:
CAUSE:
FIX:
ASSEMBLY
“TOO LOOSE”
• BB shell width too narrow (out of tolerance)
1) Ensure BB shell threads are chased cleanly and that BB shell is faced (After
painting).
• Excessive side
to side “Play” is
noticable in the
BB spindle / cup
assembly when
grabbing opposing
ends of crank
arms and rocking back and forth
laterally.
• BB shell not faced or
milled correctly to
remove all paint
2) Ensure BB shell width is within tolerance. If too narrow, proceed to step #3.
• (Note: a small
amount of detectable movement is
normal and acceptable.)
• BB shell threads misaligned
• Required chainline
spacer or spacer seal
is missing from installed assembly
• Assembly tolerance
stack-up on all parts
3) If #1 and #2 above are correct, proceed as follows:
- Add supplied extra 1mm spacer seal (black) to non-drive side of
assembly (so chainline isn’t affected).
- Re-install assembly into bike as per installation instructions # 5 and #
6 above.
4) If assembly is “loose” with optional 2.5mm pre-load elastomer installed, proceed as follows:
- Remove all spacers and seals from LH (non-drive) side of spindle assembly.
- Remove 2.5mm preload elastomer from recess in LH crank and replace with
supplied 3.5mm Quad-Ring pre-load elastomer into recess in LH crank.
- Re-install spacers and re-install assembly into bike as per installation
instructions #5 and #6 above.
• Generally the assembly rotates
very freely with
little or no detectable rotational friction or drag.
21
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
Outboard Bottom Bracket
Bearing Replacement Kit
by Enduro Bearings
Outboard Bottom Bracket
Bearing Puller/Press
by Sonny’s Bike Tools
These great procucts available at:
www.enduroforkseals.com
22

race face® x-type bearing system

Transcription

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