Read PDF - Hyde Park Historical Society
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Read PDF - Hyde Park Historical Society
Hyde Park History Vol. 32 spring 2010 Non-Profit Org. U.S. Postage PAID Chicago, IL Permit No. 85 Annual Dinner: A Time for Celebration and Reflection Hyde Park Historical Society HP 5529 S. Lake Park Avenue HS Chicago, IL 60637 Collecting and Preserving Hyde Park’s History Time for you to join up or renew? Fill out the form below and return it to: The Hyde Park Historical Society 5529 S. Lake Park Avenue • Chicago, IL 60637 This Newsletter is published by the Hyde Park Historical Society, a not-for-profit organization founded in 1975 to record, preserve, and photographs by Marc Monaghan Hyde Park Historical Society ✁ N0. 2spring 2010 Published by the Hyde Park Historical Society promote public interest in the history of Hyde Park. Its headquarters, located in an 1893 restored cable car station at 5529 S. Lake Park Avenue, houses local exhibits. It is open to Enclosed is my new renewal membership in the Hyde Park Historical Society. Name Address Zip Student $15 Member $30 Sponsor $50 Benefactor $100 the public on Saturdays and Sundays from 2 until 4pm. Web site: hydeparkhistory.org Telephone: HY3-1893 President: Ruth Knack Editor: Frances S. Vandervoort Membership Coordinator: Claude Weil Designer: Nickie Sage Top row, left to right: Caroline Cracraft thanks the Society for her Cornell Award for her chronicle of Leon and Marian Despres; Lisa Oppenheim and Frank Valadez receive their Cornell Award for the Chicago Metro History Fair. Bottom row, left to right: Peter Schoenmann, Elizabeth Kendall, and Lesa Dowd with their Despres Awards for restoring the Blackstone Library murals; Ishmael Smith, teacher Stacy Stewart, and Bryanna Stalling with their Despres Awards for successfully advocating for the landmarking of the Carl Hansberry House. n Saturday, February 27, 2010, more than 160 O guests enjoyed food, music, and reflection at the Society’s annual dinner held at the Quadrangle Club. Highlighting the program was a celebration of the 50th anniversary of the Gilbert and Sullivan Opera Company of Hyde Park and a tribute to Robert Ashenhurst, long-time Society member and co-founder of the G. and S. Company. Bob passed away ➤ 2 2 1 in October, 2009, but his spirit lives on in his music, his professional accomplishments, and his commitment to the community. Paul Cornell Awards were bestowed upon Caroline Cracraft for chronicling the life and times of Leon and Marian Despres, and upon the Chicago Metro History Education Center for inspiring young people to learn more about Chicago’s history, especially that of Hyde Park. Marian and Leon Despres Preservation Awards were granted to the group of experts involved in restoring and preserving the historic murals in the dome of the Blackstone Library, and to students and their teacher from the Amelia Earhart School who advocated for landmark status from the Chicago City Council for the Hansberry House in West Woodlawn. This modest home was the residence of Carl Hansberry and his family, including his daughter, Lorraine Hansberry, whose 1959 play, Raisin in the Sun, called national attention to housing segregation in cities. Issues surrounding the house became the basis of a 1940 U. S. Supreme Court ruling against racially restrictive housing covenants. Elaine Smith’s piano playing provided pre-dinner music and accompaniment for Noel Taylor’s songs from G. and S. operas. She also accompanied Helen Bailey’s vocal tribute to Bob Ashenhurst. New Society Members The Hyde Park Historical Society welcomes the following new members: David R. Ashenhurst, Bruce Carroll, JoAnn Scurlock and Richard H. Beal, Solvig and Harry Robertson, Mel Von H. Smith, Mary Silverstein and Deborah Wahid. photographs by Marc Monaghan ➤ 7 Top row, left to right: Alta Blakely is designated an HPHS Board Member Emerita by Carol Bradford; Roland Bailey tells the history of the Gilbert and Sullivan Opera Company of Hyde Park. Bottom row, left to right: Helen Bailey sings a tribute to Robert Ashenhurst; Noel Taylor is the Pirate King of the Pirates of Penzance. S p r i n g 2 0 1 0 Haydon—he’s the one who designed all those stained glass windows for Rockefeller Chapel and then got someone to teach us Hyde Park volunteers how to cut the glass and make the windows. For several decades Doug Anderson has led people on bird walks on Wooded Island. One time a new young professor, a refugee from Russia, climbed a willow tree over the lagoon and sang Russian folk songs. “Oh, come on,” I said. “Let’s go. It’s going to be okay. Who’s going to attack two young mothers and their children?” So we set off. It was a beautiful day on the Island. Spring breezes tossed the leaves of the willows and oak trees, planted at the time of the Columbian Exposition. Wild grasses and flowers greeted us as we crossed over the arched bridge to the Island. Birds sang of the beauty of the day. We hiked along the quiet path to a grassy plot far from the rushing traffic on the nearby highway. We spread our picnic and enjoyed a quiet lunch. Then the four children frolicked in the sunshine. My friend was facing the willows that leaned over the lagoon in a deep thicket of bushes—a favorite place of fishermen. “It is beautiful here,” my friend finally said. Suddenly a look of terror spread over her face. I turned to see what had frightened her. An ancient man was coming slowly out of the bushes. He wore a ragged dark coat distinguished by its large, decorated brass buttons dangling, one missing. He carried a bucket, a fish knife, a pole, and a few fish on a line. “He won’t hurt us,” I assured her. He came closer. He smiled at the children. “Would you like to see what I have in my bucket?” he asked. The children were timid. “Don’t be afraid,” he said. He dumped out several small crayfish. “Thought you kids might like to play with my left-over bait.” Relieved, my friend said, “Sure. Thanks.” The baby was afraid of the crayfish. So the man reached into his pocket. “Here,” he said, handing the baby a large brass button. His sister began to cry, seeing that her little brother had been given a shiny button to play with. Suddenly the old man pulled out his long knife. My friend froze in horror. The old man calmly turned the knife toward himself, cut a second button from his coat, and gave it to the crying child. She stopped crying. The old man walked quietly away. Post script: I wrote this story many years ago. If that old man is still around, I want to thank him for restoring my faith in the kindness of human nature. Vi Fogle Uretz was a longtime member of the Hyde Park Historical Society who passed away in May, 2007. This article was made available to Hyde Park History by her husband, Robert Uretz, and was first published in the Hyde Park Herald on December 24, 2003. It is published here with the permission of the Hyde Park Herald. UPCOMING EVENTS Saturday, April 17, 2010 Lecture by Dr. Gregory Mueller of the University of Chicago and Chicago Botanic Garden: The Fungus Among Us: Nature and Man in the Big City. The lecture will take place from 2-4 p.m. in the Community Lounge of the University of Chicago’s Center for Multicultural Affairs, 5710 South Woodlawn Avenue. Also on April 17, the 20th Annual Quilt Show and Sale will take place at the United Church of Hyde Park, 1448 East 53rd Street, from 10 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. On Sunday, April 18, architectural historian Sam Guard will lead his second tour of Hyde Park buildings designed by the Pond Brothers. The tour will begin at the southeast corner of 55th Street and Woodlawn Ave. at 1:00 p.m. Saturday, May 15, 2010 Carol Bradford will give a special talk commemorating the 150th anniversary of the United Church of Hyde Park. She will illustrate her talk with nearly 100 glass plate photographs taken during the first 50 years of the Hyde Park Presbyterian Church, founded in May, 1860. Photography expert Joe Marlin will use a special projector for these unusual images. The major June event will be a showing of Hyde Park-related exhibits from the Chicago Metro History Fair. Watch for the announcement of the date. Details of these events will be provided by mail and on the Society’s website. Answer to Mystery Quiz: The previous two observatories of the University of Chicago were the Dearborn Observatory of the first University of Chicago, built in the 1860s at 34th Street and Cottage Grove Avenue, and the Kenwood Observatory, built in the early 1890s behind the George Ellery Hale House at 4545 South Drexel Boulevard. S p r i n g 2 0 1 0 3 ➤ 5 sometimes spelled coigns or coins, are small slabs of limestone or arrangements of offset bricks, placed in the corners of buildings at regular intervals to add strength and detail to the overall structure. The quoins of the Thompson house are handsome indeed. The walls of the third floor surround the windows and extend upward into a peak, all detailed by a diamond-shaped pattern of bricks known as a diaper. This odd name refers to an array of bricks distinguished by a distinct color and arrangement, as in this house. How did the term diaper, with which new parents are infinitely familiar, come to describe architectural forms made of bricks? It turns out that the word diaper is distantly related to the more ancient term, damask, a fabric woven with rich, sometimes diamond-like patterns. In a more frugal time, mothers used cloth diapers on their children at a time when disposable diapers were a luxury. Parenting manuals advised that the most absorbent diapers were birdseye diapers, those woven in a small diamond-like pattern supposedly like the eye of a bird. After a slog through rainy weather, we arrived at the Lillie House on the southwest corner of 58th Street and Kenwood Avenue. Tim Samuelson commented that this house, built in 1901, is his favorite of all Pond buildings. The house was built in 1901 by University of Chicago embryologist, Frank Rattray Lillie and his wife, heiress of wealth from the Crane Company, a Chicago manufacturer of bathroom fixtures. We were unable to go inside, but stood in the drizzle to examine walls detailed by bands of bricks in rows of two, three, or more. I couldn’t help thinking that, if no one were looking, these strips and projections might tempt aspiring mountain climbers to use these walls to hone their rock-climbing skills! From the Lillie house, we walked west on 58th Street to the American School of Education building, built by the Pond Brothers in 1906 near Drexel Boulevard and now part of the University of Chicago. This handsome building was designated a Chicago landmark in 1995, and was honored with the Society’s Marian and Leon Despres Preservation Award in 2008. The building’s dark-paneled lobby, essentially unchanged since its construction, has large windows allowing light to enter from the south. Leaded glass details these windows as well as the windows of the inner doors of the vestibule. Tim Samuelson amused us with names of some of the American School’s better known graduates, including members of the Flying Wallenda family, tennis star Andrea Jaeger, and Donny Osmond. The exterior of this building is characterized by Pond trademarks, rows of bricks and carefully placed limestone bands. And, at the very top of the eastern flank of the building are diapers! After visiting the American School, we headed east, then north on Woodlawn Avenue where we were treated to remarks by Sam Guard and Tim Samuelson about Pond-designed houses on the east side of the street between 55th and 57th Streets. The final stop was for a careful look at the unusual six-flat apartment building at 5515 South Woodlawn Avenue 55th Street. Instead of the traditional side-by-side placement of the sets of three apartments in most six-flat apartment buildings, the two wings of the building are at right angles to each other. Sam pointed out that this allows an efficient use of space, and showed us how the Ponds used bricks of different textures and tints to construct walls, all of which added warmth and detail to an otherwise bland surface. Also, they opted for dark bricks used for the lowest levels of their buildings. The bricks of this building are particularly dark because they were fired much longer than ordinary bricks, charring the outer surface to almost black. Near the very top of the building’s walls are, not surprisingly—diapers! The Pond Architectural firm was also responsible for the University Congregational Church, built in 1895 at the northwest corner of 56th Street and Dorchester Avenue. It was replaced in the early 1950s by the red brick high rise apartment building Hyde Parkers know so well. This church, and other buildings designed by the Ponds, are all described in this fine book edited by David Swan and Terry Tatum. The final stop for this group was the Woodlawn Tap, not known for its architecture but the perfect place to reflect on the talents of the Pond Brothers, who provided Hyde Park with some of the most distinctive buildings in Chicago. FSV Note: Sam Guard will lead a tour of more Bond buildings in Hyde Park on Sunday, April 18. See Upcoming Events for details. Miracle on Wooded Island By Vi Fogle Uretz “Oh, we can’t go there,” my friend said. “It’s too dangerous. We might get mugged.” My friend was new to Hyde Park and had heard of the dangers. The children looked at us expectantly. They had been promised a day’s outing on Wooded Island—a favorite place of mine—an island made for the World’s Fair of 1893. When I was a student at the University of Chicago in the 1930s, Harold Haydon used to take his watercolor painting class there. We painted pictures of the lagoon, the boats, and the ancient willows and oak trees. Harold S p r i n g 2 0 1 0 A Childhood in Early Hyde Park By Helen Mathews Miller In 1894, my father Shailer Matthews left Colby College in Waterville, Maine, where he taught history and political economy, to join the new University of Chicago being built under the presidency of William Rainey Harper. My father was Dean of the Divinity School for 25 years until his retirement in 1933. He built the three-story brick house with white trim at 5736 Woodlawn Avenue. It was said that no frame houses were permitted after the Great Chicago Fire of 1871. My mother joined him after the birth of their son and the three of them lived in the old Del Prado Hotel on 59th and Washington Street, (now Blackstone Avenue), while the house was being completed. It was the second house on the block. Woodlawn Avenue was unpaved; cows were pastured across the street; rats scurried under the wooden board sidewalks, and it must have seemed a dreary spot to my mother coming from her New England home. The house was equipped with both electricity and natural gas (“in case the electricity should fail”). The roof was of slate shingles brought from Maine, as were the kitchen sink and laundry tubs. The interior woodwork was the golden oak so popular at that time. There were transoms over each bedroom door which could be closed or opened for ventilation, and a speaking tube from the front bedroom to the kitchen through which one could send a piercing whistle to attract someone’s attention for the message to follow. Two of the bedrooms had gas grates for extra warmth. The grates gave a great “plop” when lighted and smelled faintly of gas. A chute from the 3rd floor bathroom to the basement disposed of laundry. All the pipes in the house were of lead. I was born in 1898 and recently came across the bill for my delivery by Dr. Frank Carey, $75. My sister Mary arrived four-and-one-half years later. Up to that time we had had no telephone, depending on the Quadrangle Club, then around the corner on 58th Street, for phone calls. With her birth imminent, it was thought wise to install our own phone to call the doctor. The Quadrangle Club was later moved on rollers across the campus to make way for the Oriental Institute, and the present club was erected at 57th Street and University Avenue. Above: Helen Mathews’ high school graduation photo, Correlator, 1916. Other professors arrived and built their homes up and down Woodlawn and Lexington Avenue (now University Avenue), from 55th Street to the Midway. Soon there was quite a group of children my age in our block, all boys except for Clarinda Buck and me. Thanks to my brother, all boys were kind in allowing us to join their track meets and King Arthur tournaments. There were the Jordans, the Bucks, the Herricks, the Vincents, the Loebs (who covered their back yard with gravel because it was more sanitary than grass), the Hales, and the Donaldsons. In the winter we flooded the yard for ice skating, and built forts and a toboggan slide out of huge snow balls. We had “hose parties” in hot weather. Papa was in great demand as a lecturer and preacher at colleges and churches all over the country, so he was away from home a great deal. Once I asked him if speaking to small groups was worthwhile. He said, “Yes, if I can enlarge their outlook even a little.” He was never ordained as a minister, preferring to teach and write. He was the author of some 20 or more books, among them The Social Teachings of Jesus, Is God Emeritus?, The Faith of Modernism, The French Revolution, and his autobiography, New Faith for Old. He was also very active in the Hyde Park Baptist (now Union) Church, was President of the Federal Council of Churches, and on the boards of the Northern Baptist Convention, the University of Chicago Settlement, the Chautauqua Institution, Church Peace Union, and Kobe College, Japan. He founded and edited a news magazine, The World Today. My mother, too, was busy with outside activities: the Needlework Guild of the World, Camp Farr of the U. of C. Settlement, and Women’s Society of the Baptist Church. She was a member of Mrs. George Glessner’s Monday morning reading class at 18th and Prairie Avenue and of the “Once a Weeks,” a group of close friends in the neighborhood, one on the board of the Chicago Orphan Asylum. ➤ 4 photograph by Peter O. Vandervoort 6 The Mathews’ house at 5736 S. Woodlawn Avenue. S p r i n g 2 0 1 0 5 4 3 Naturally, the faculty children went to the University Elementary and High School (being given half-tuition). The school had developed from the old John Dewey School my brother attended at 58th and Ellis. I reveled in classes in art, weaving, clay modeling, woodwork, and copper shop, sewing and cooking (for both girls and boys) and especially in Miss Stillwell’s print shop where we set up type by hand and printed our own booklets of poems and Greek and Norwegian mythology, illustrating them with drawings done in our art class. There were the usually academic subjects also, starting French in the 4th grade. American history seems to have been somewhat neglected. We were taken on field trips to the Japanese tea house on the Wooded Island and to see the Indiana sand dunes to study bugs and weeds. We were taken to the fire station on 55th Street to see a demonstration of instantaneous response to a fire alarm. Also, we visited the Lake Michigan shore to view three Spanish ships (the “Caravels”)—reproductions of those in which Columbus sailed when he discovered America, then anchored off the land where stood La Rabida Convent. The ships were donated by Spain to the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893. One day, when I was alone in the house, I decided to climb down the outside to the ground. I went out the window in Papa’s third floor study, dropped to the small balcony below, climbed over the wooden railing, slid down the downspout to the roof of the front porch, and went to the north end where I could climb over the railing and slide down the long post of the porch railing below. From there, it was an easy jump from there to the ground, but I confess I arrived shaken. No one ever mentioned this exploit to me so I assume it was unknown. On spring Saturday mornings, Connie McLaughlin, Clarinda, and I would climb into the low branches of the old willow tree in the field now occupied by Ida Noyes Hall, where we read aloud David Copperfield as we munched gumdrops and horehound candy. Clarinda and I sat on the back porch steps reading the endless Green Fairy, Blue Fairy, and Red Fairy Books, and the Little Colonel books. She believed she was a witch because she had red hair. Carroll Mason and I were champion “jack” players, inventing new tricks for that ancient game. She had a Shetland pony and would take me for drives around Washington Park. Special treats were monthly concerts by the Chicago Symphony Orchestra in Mandel Hall, and the Fuller Sisters who sang old English songs accompanied by harpsichord and harp. Sunday afternoons the children on our block were invited to Gardner Hale’s house where his mother read aloud Scott’s Ivanhoe, a little advanced for me, being four years younger than the others. Carroll, Connie, and I would wait until the workmen had left a new house just being built and then explore ➤ to see what we could find to collect, climbing up ladders and over loose boards. We specialized in acquiring drops of lead left by the plumbers and once were richly rewarded to find a whole cup of lead in the Frank Lloyd Wright House (nicknamed the “Dreadnaught”), then being build across the street. The first play I ever went to was The Deceitful Dean, given by the student players, The Blackfriars. As a member of the University Athletic Board, Papa could get free tickets to all the games. So he, Mr. Bock, Clarinda, and I attended football games in Stagg Field and basketball games in Bartlett Gymnasium. I learned to swim in Mr. Whit’s swimming class in the Bartlett Gymnasium pool. Miss Hinman conducted a social dancing class that met in our various homes. Once a week I rode my bicycle to my music class with Miss Van Hook on Rosalie Court (now Harper Avenue), and finally learned to play When Morning Gilds the Skies on the piano. For Christmas we decorated the tree with strands of popcorn and cranberries, and lighted it with real candles that miraculously never caused a fire. I was usually sick with the grippe, and would be brought downstairs Christmas morning wrapped in blankets and full of calomel*. The German band would play the old Christmas music outside each house. In spring the scissors sharpener man would appear, ringing his cheery bells, and the organ grinder, with his flea-ridden monkey, would arrive. I can still feel the monkey’s icy little hand as he clutched my penny and doffed his cap in thanks. When the wind blew from the northwest, the air was filled with the heavy odor of the Stockyards, and we would close all our windows. But all summer the air was also filled with the beautiful strains of music from across the street as Fanny Bloomfield Zeister, the concert pianist, practiced her scales. We had a “poor family” living on the West Side, to whom we gave clothes and food, but whom we never got to know personally. Yet they served to remind us that many were less fortunate than we were and needed help. Many of our neighbors employed Mr. Riley, a private watchman, to make the rounds at night to check windows and doors, but it was generally believed (that the reason) he came around only once a month was to collect his modest salary. Once I tested this and strung a black thread from post to post across the front porch. It was intact the next morning. Yet no one thought it wise to dismiss him. Our family belonged to the Hyde Park Baptist (now Union) Church. After Sunday school and church it was good to dash home to a dinner of roast chicken and chocolate ice cream. There were often guests, a visiting preacher or foreign missionary, or two college girls, as our parents were counselors of Kelly Hall, one of the University dormitories. S p r i n g 2 0 1 0 Every evening Larry, the lamplighter, would stop his horse in front of our house, lean his ladder up against the lamp post and light the gas lamp. Fire engines terrified me as the horses galloped down the street pulling the steaming engine and hook and ladder; we were reassured only when they had passed our house. Other familiar sounds were the “uxtra, uxtra” of the newsboy calling out some exciting news, and we would run out to buy a copy of the latest newspaper. We loved all the horses that delivered packages to us: the grocery horse, Marshall Field’s handsome pair of dappled grays, and the milk wagon horse. We slipped lumps of sugar into their feed bags whenever possible. Help seemed to be plentiful: a cook and “scone maid” lived in and a laundress came once a week. Miss McKenzie came Saturday morning to shampoo our hair, Miss Helmar once in a while to sew and mend. John Halstrom shoveled snow and tended the furnace in winter and mowed the grass in summer. At Halloween we carved our pumpkin and put it, lighted up, in the oak tree in the back yard. The boys would sneak up to the Deke (Delta Kappa Epsilon) fraternity house, ring the bell, and run. If caught, they were likely to be held under a cold shower bath. The urge to reminisce, once yielded to, is difficult to stop. From my eighties, these memories reflect my deep gratitude for a childhood spent in this pleasant and stimulating neighborhood. *Calomel, mercurous chloride, is a yellowish-white chemical compound once used to treat a variety of ailments, including digestive upsets, skin problems, syphilis and, obviously, grippe. This essay is taken from a document discovered by Society member, Bert Benade, who found it in papers turned over to him by Mary Irons, former Society member. We have learned from Helen Miller’s daughter, Mary Louise Williamson, who lives in Maryland, that Helen attended Vassar College from which she graduated in 1920. She married Louis Miller, with whom she adopted Mrs. Williamson and Mrs. Williamson’s sister, Mrs. Olo Kolade, now deceased. She worked for many years as a social worker for the City of Chicago where she supervised the well-being of adopted children. She died in November, 1997 at age 99, and is buried next to her husband in the Miller area of an old cemetery in Akron, Ohio. We are grateful to Ms. Williamson and to Kerry Tulson of the Alumni Office of the University of Chicago Laboratory School for providing this information. Hyde Park Mystery Quiz Yerkes Observatory is the third observatory of the University of Chicago. Name one of the first two. Coins, Diapers, and Roasted Bricks: How the Pond Brothers Changed the Face of Hyde Park On Sunday, March 7, Chicago architect David Swan spoke at HPHS Headquarters to a standing-room-only crowd about the book, The Autobiography of Irving K. Pond (Hyoogen Press, Inc. 2010), edited by Swan and his colleague, Terry Tatum, Director of Research for the City of Chicago’s Landmark Division. This dynamic presentation served to remind me why I became a member of the Hyde Park Historical Society in the first place. When I joined, I fully expected to learn about the architecture of local buildings. Like most people in Hyde Park, I was familiar with Frank Lloyd Wright’s Robie House. I knew about Louis Sullivan’s Auditorium Theater and long had admired the work of Daniel Burnham on Michigan Avenue. Although I had been in the Quadrangle Club dozens of times, the name of the architect, Howard Van Doren Shaw, meant nothing to me. Irving K. Pond’s name had never crossed my lips until I connected his name with the now-landmarked American School of Education building in the heart of the University of Chicago’s ever-expanding hospital system. Being a member of the Society has opened my eyes to local architectural treasures I might never have noticed other than to say, “Hmm—that’s a lovely house. I wonder who designed it!” or, “I love cupolas—they always remind me of a witch’s castle!” Before I heard of zoned heating—separate heat sources for different parts of a building—I wondered how owners could afford to heat the huge homes of Kenwood and Hyde Park. On this day, I set out to learn about the legacy of the Ponds. After David Swan’s illustrated lecture, Society board member Jack Spicer, who organized the event, Chicago architectural historian Tim Samuelson, and the irrepressible Sam Guard lent their expertise and enthusiasm to a tour of local buildings designed by the Ponds. The first stop was the 1899 Thompson House on Blackstone Avenue, now the home of David and Peggy Bevington. The entrance hall of this handsome brick building, graced by serene arches and dark beams, conveys a sense of welcome to all who enter. Large fireplaces in the main downstairs rooms are banked by glazed tiles patterned with green or golden leaves. Outside again, our guides pointed out features we were to see in other Pond buildings. Quoins, ➤ 6 S p r i n g 2 0 1 0