Advanced V2 Mechbox Guide FULL VERSION

Transcription

Advanced V2 Mechbox Guide
FULL VERSION
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Copyright 2005,06 The AirsoftPRESS (Hong Kong). All rights reserved.
FULL VERSION
Table of Contents
TABLE OF CONTENTS................................................................................................................................2
END USER LICENSE AGREEMENT.........................................................................................................4
PREFACE........................................................................................................................................................8
SAFETY PRECAUTION...............................................................................................................................9
STEP 0: GETTING THE TOOLS YOU’RE GOING TO NEED.............................................................10
STEP 1: HAVING ALL THE PARTS READY ..........................................................................................12
STEP 2: SHIMMING ...................................................................................................................................29
STEP 3: INSTALLING THE SWITCH ASSEMBLY ...............................................................................33
STEP 4: INSTALLING THE SAFETY COVER UNIT ............................................................................35
STEP 5: COMPLETING THE ASSEMBLY PROCESS...........................................................................36
STEP 6: TESTING .......................................................................................................................................38
ADVANCED WIRE ROUTING – PART 1.................................................................................................40
DETERMINING THE PROPER WIRE LENGTH FOR MOTOR CONNECTION .....................................................40
ADVANCED WIRE ROUTING – PART 2.................................................................................................44
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Preface
Airsoft has been well established in Asia for over 20 years, but only in recent
years has there been much interest in the Western world. Most professional
literature on Airsoft were written in Japanese, with very few translated works
available. Even though we are seeing more and more tech tips (in English)
popping up on the internet these days, too many of them were written by
newcomers who don’t really know what they are talking about. If you upgrade
your AEG based on their advices, you may risk running into unexpected
troubles.
At AirsoftPRESS, we produce technical information based on input from
practicing engineers, technicians and field operators who have been with Airsoft
since the era of S.S. 9000. Because we are part of the industry, we know what
information is really needed, and we make sure our e-books tell what people
really need to know. We do not mind to criticize thing that doesn't work, and we
will not hesitate to give you hacks and workarounds to difficult problems.
Reading this e-book should be like having an airsoft professional by your side,
passing on useful hints whenever you get stuck.
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Safety precaution
Along the process of disassembling/assembling your mechbox, there are
chances for unexpected debris to fly out (e.g. when you try to put a M120 into
the mechbox, your spring guide may accidentally fly out with strong impact).
Therefore:
•
•
order your children to stay away from the work area.
don’t work in a location too close to the windows (you don’t wanna break
the window glass).
•
wear safety goggles yourself if you are going to deal with very stiff springs.
Good luck!
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Step 0: Getting the tools you’re going to need
The two basic types of screwdrivers are standard (slot / flat head) screwdrivers
and Philips screwdrivers. Make sure you have drivers of different size handy – a
whole set of drivers from your local store should cost less than USD$5 each.
Only TM mechboxes use Torx screws. Torx head size is typically described using
the capital letter "T" followed by a number, such as T5, T10, T15 and T25. TM
mechboxes use T10 screws. You therefore need to have the corresponding driver
handy.
Note: It doesn’t hurt for you to use the regular Philips screws in place of the Torx
screws. The Torx screws have nothing special nor unique other than the special
screw head layout.
Screws with a centre hole that is hexagonal require the use of Allen wrenches or
Hex drivers. To the best of our knowledge, however, no mechbox shall require
the use of hex screw.
You shall need needle-nosed pliers when handling the smaller mechbox screws
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and springs.
You may need some assorted files (such as straight edge, rounded and rounded
side) for deburring and cleaning the edges of cuts needed for slight modification
of certain mechbox parts.
You may need to use a pen shape soldering iron for rewiring the mechbox and
the battery connection (especially when you are not happy with the existing
wiring or you want to switch to the Deans plugs – the use of Deans plugs as well
as proper wiring/soldering techniques are further covered in our Practical AEG
Upgrade guide). You may also use it to produce small holes on the plastic
mechbox parts if an electric drill is not available.
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Step 1: Having all the parts ready:
Have you got all the parts ready? You better ensure that you do…
The shell:
Is this the regular 6mm version or the newer 7mm version? You need to figure
this out at the time you buy the shell so that you can also buy the proper
bushings. Whether or not the shell has been reinforced does not make a
difference in terms of assembly and troubleshooting.
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The electronic switch assembly:
For use with the Tamiya battery
connector plug. At this moment you
don’t have to fit them into the
For connecting to the motor.
plastic plug yet. But you should at
the least have the metal connector
pins soldered with the wires.
I strongly suggest that you first get all the necessary soldering works and wire
connections done before putting the switch assembly into the mechbox.
Depending on the gun model and the planned location of your battery, you’ll
need to plan the length of the wires for battery connection carefully. You must
also plan the length of the motor wires – remember, the wires need to be
properly routed inside the piston grip before reaching the motor (to avoid
getting in the way of the motor shaft and pinion), therefore it is always
preferable to keep the motor wires a little longer then required.
And don’t mix up the pos / neg wires. Use red wire for pos(+) connection and
black wire for neg (-) connection. Select the proper wires to use based on the
guidelines presented in the Practical AEG Upgrade guide.
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Be very gentle with the metal contact plates found on the switch unit. Don’t bend
the two metal plates on the switch (see below) or improper contact with the
switch plate will result, which may disable semi or full auto firing entirely
(depending on how they have been bent).
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The switch plate:
See the difference?
The first one is for
M4. The second
one is for MP5.
Check your switch plate. Different gun models use switch plate of different
shapes. For example, the M4 switch plate is totally different from the MP5 switch
plate in terms of shape and dimension.
Test fit your switch plate with your mechbox shell. If the switch plate cannot slide
smoothly even on an empty shell, it is going to get stuck when the mechbox is
fully equipped. Therefore, use a piece of sand paper to make the back of the
switch plate (the side facing the mechbox shell) a little thinner until it can slide
smoothly.
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The tappet plate:
All V2 mechboxes use the same type of tappet plate. HOWEVER, tappet plates of
different makes do have minor difference in dimension which can render your
mechbox inoperable. As mentioned in our Practical AEG Upgrade guide:
Even though most tappet plates look identical, different makes do have small
difference that can introduce big problems. Take for example the tappet plate
made by ICS. We tried to use it to replace a broken one found in a Cybergun
DPMS AR15. The mechbox got stalled after making the replacement. Upon
checking, we found that on the ICS plate there was an alignment stripe which
prevented the plate from sliding inside the Cybergun mechbox. Therefore, when
replacing the tappet plate, double check and ensure that the replacement plate
can really fit into your mechbox. Minor cutting/dremelling/filing may be
necessary to permit smooth sliding.
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Safety Cover unit (i.e. mechbox safety switch):
The safety cover unit consists of two parts. The left one shown above is the inner
arm which is to stay entirely inside the mechbox for interfacing with the trigger.
The right one above is the outer lever which is to interface with the switch plate.
Whether the inner arm is facing upward or downward does not matter
(we found many inner arms installed differently out of the box on
different guns from different manufacturers anyway) as long as it can
interface with the trigger properly. You can test it out while assembling
your mechbox (refer to the next section on Trigger for further
information).
They are VERY BRISKY. Therefore, be extremely gentle when screwing them
together. Don’t get them over tightened (our Practical AEG Upgrade guide
offers in-depth tips on proper screw handling).
Test fit the unit beforehand. If the outer lever is too big to fit into the mechbox
shell, minor filing or dremelling may be necessary – you need to allow the outer
lever to smoothly spin after being attached to the mechbox shell.
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Trigger:
You’ll somehow need to “attach” the trigger spring to the trigger. To make your
life easier along the assembly process (through holding them firmly together), I
strongly recommend that you apply a little bit of locktight when inserting the tip
of the trigger spring into the hole of the trigger.
It is very important for you to ensure that the safety cover unit can
interface with the trigger correctly. In particular the tip of its “inner
arm” must be long enough to reach the upper part of the trigger so that
trigger squeeze can be stopped when you turn the safety switch to Safe.
A real life example: the inner arm of the CA M15 safety cover unit is NOT
long enough to block the trigger of a Cybergun A15. Therefore, test fit
them before final installation.
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Cylinder, piston, air nozzle, spring guide and spring:
You need to pay particular attention to 5 issues here:
1, Does the air nozzle have an inner dimension that allows a smooth fit with the
cylinder head nozzle? A loose fitting will fail to seal air, while a tight fitting may
lead to air nozzle breakage or jamming.
Also, is the nozzle of a correct length? A nozzle that is too long can lead to
misfeed. On the other hand, one that is too short can lead to FPS drop. Check the
specification of your gun model to find out the exact length needed, and make
sure your nozzle doesn’t go 1mm more or less.
2, If your cylinder head is not of the one-piece type, does the cylinder nozzle
wobble? If it does, fix it (instant cement will do) or get a replacement before
moving on.
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3, Check the side holes of the cylinder head – do they fit with your mechbox shell?
If not, you may need to “extend” the holes forward or backward a bit depending
on the actual fitting needs:
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4, Test fit the piston with the cylinder. When you move the piston inside the
cylinder you should feel a certain level of resistance. If there is no resistance at
all, the piston or the piston O’ring is no good (it is allowing air leakage, which can
result in real serious performance drop). Based on our experience, the stock TM
piston is one of the best in terms of air sealing.
What if you can’t buy a piston head O ring of a suitable size? One little trick is to buy a smaller
and thinner O ring, then cut it short a little bit to make it just long enough to wrap around the
inside of the piston head.
The “inner” O ring
The stock “outer”
O ring
Put it in first, then put your stock O ring back in (so your stock O ring can wrap around the thinner
O ring). This way you can slightly increase the effective dimension of the “outer” O ring (for
better compression) and at the same time retain some “flexibilities” without introducing too much
friction along piston movement (an oversized O ring can produce too much friction and lead to fast
wear and tear on the O ring rubber).
Also pay attention to the side stripes of the piston. We found that certain
made-in- China pistons have side stripes that are not deep enough to fit with the
tracks on the mechbox shells (you will have a hard time closing up the two
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halves of the shell back together). Again, you can perform test fitting prior to
formal assembly. You must be able to get the two halves of the mechbox shell
perfectly closed and at the same time allow the piston to slide smoothly.
5, Test fit the cylinder head with the cylinder. A loose cylinder head can allow
serious air leakage. Pay particular attention to the cylinder O Ring – if the
cylinder head is loose, try to see if you can replace this O ring with a larger one.
The cylinder
head O ring
When buying a new piston O ring, by all means take your current cylinder / piston set with you to
the hardware store and try things out on the spot. You want an O ring large enough for a slightly
tighter fit with the cylinder (so you can improve compression), but at the same time you don’t want
an O ring that is too large. An over-sized O ring will make it very hard for the piston to move
inside the cylinder and will increase the load of the motor and the battery quite significantly.
* Remember to also check the inner diameter of your replacement O ring. If it is too large (an
inner diameter almost as large as the overall diameter of your piston head is way too large), it may
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fail to sit inside the “channel” of the piston head during rapid piston movement. If part of it comes
off, your mechbox will immediately jam.
Applying grease around the piston head O ring is a measure primarily for ensuring smoother
movement – with proper lubing the O ring can have less wear and tear (and can last longer). Most
of the time you should not need to replace the O ring unless FPS drop becomes apparent. Do keep
in mind, an O ring that fits with the cylinder tightly WILL wear faster due to more friction imposed
on it during piston movement.
The cylinder head O ring is made of very thin rubber and is quite difficult to acquire from the local
hardware stores (due to its unique sizing). If you don’t have one handy, the best thing to do is to
apply grease around it for better air sealing. Since the cylinder head does not move, in theory its O
ring should not wear out by itself. Still, you may want to regularly check and reapply grease
around it if necessary during your regular maintenance effort.
6, If you are using a custom made spring (don't get me wrong, I have nothing
against custom made spring), before installation you need to test fit it both sides
with the spring guide. Installation-wise the side with the tighter coils always go
to the spring guide, but when performing a test fit you must do it both sides
because along spring compression most part of the spring will eventually be in
touch with the spring guide and if any part of the spring does not fit with the
spring guide your mechbox will get locked up eventually. Remember, a good
fit should allow all parts of the spring to freely rotate along the spring
guide (even when the spring is fully compressed).
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Spring set:
For use with the
tappet plate.
For use with the
trigger.
For use with the
anti-reversal
latch.
For use with the
safety cover unit.
For use with the
electronic switch
assembly unit.
For use between the switch
plate and the yaw control.
This spring is very small and
is VERY EASY to fly out and
get lost when sliding out the
switch plate from the
mechbox shell.
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Anti-reversal latch:
Note that some anti-reversal latches have an axle too small to fit onto the
placeholder of the mechbox shell, thus resulting in wobbling. Test fit it early to
determine if replacement is necessary.
Yaw control (i.e. cutoff lever):
Shim washers:
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Gears:
Bevel gear
Spur gear
Sector gear
Try to mesh the gears by hand and see if they fit together well. In fact it is always
suggested that you buy all three gears from the same manufacturer to ensure
the best possible fitting.
Metal bushings:
Not all 6mm bushings are of exactly identical dimension. Therefore, you have 2
issues to deal with here:
1, Compatibility with the gears: test fit the gears with the bushings and make
sure that the bushings can comfortably accommodate the gear axles without
much “play”.
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2, External compatibility: test fit the bushings with the mechbox shell. The
bushings should NOT be allowed to easily spin.
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If the bushings are OK, then let’s follow the advice presented in our Practical
AEG Upgrade and have them firmly inserted into the mechbox shells:
When installing new bushings, make sure you have them properly aligned with
the place holders. Additionally, we recommend that you glue them in place, or
otherwise they may go loose and spin together with the gears after prolonged
use.
9
8
Apply a thin layer of glue
Screws
Don’t forget about the screws! Make sure all your parts come with the necessary
screws.
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Step 2: Shimming
Start by removing everything on the mechbox shell except for the bushings:
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By removing everything on the mechbox shell you can focus solely on the
insertion and shimming of the 3 gears. An empty shell gives you a clearer view
of the gears in action.
The reason why you need to carefully shim is that different makes of bushings
and gears all have small variations in “thickness”. Some gears may require a
0.2mm shim washer on one side while some others may require totally no
washer on the top at all.
Look at the setting from the side (as shown below). From this angle you can tell
whether the teeth of the gears are meshing with the others properly.
There are 2 issues here that require your attention:
Sector gear
issue
Bevel gear
issue
Position of
the yaw
control
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The sector gear issue:
Remember, the yaw control unit is going to lay right under the sector gear. If you
have the sector gear shimmed too low it may just scratch on the face of the yaw
control unit when spinning. Therefore you must “raise” the sector gear a bit.
However, to maintain proper gear balance you will also need to “raise” the spur
gear proportionately.
The bevel gear issue:
When you raise the spur gear you will also need to raise the bevel gear. However,
you must ensure that the anti-reversal latch can still maintain proper alignment
with the lower half of the bevel gear. This issue is often ignored by beginners –
a latch with improper alignment can damage or wear out real fast.
Simply put, when shimming you cannot afford to ignore the yaw control unit and
the anti-reversal latch.
Another frequently ignored issue: when you shim the bevel gear pay attention to
how many washers (and how thick these washers are) you put at its bottom.
Remember, the motor pinion has to get in touch with it in order to turn the other
gears. We cannot adjust the vertical alignment of the motor pinion (although we
can push the pinion further inward through adjusting the hex screw of the grip
end motor cover plate), therefore if the bevel gear is shimmed too high the
contact with the pinion may not be close enough to prevent stripping.
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The motor’s pinion
needs to get in touch
with the teeth here.
FYI: when adjusting the hex screw of the grip end motor cover plate (which is to
be done once the mechbox is assembled and put back into the lower receiver)
you should tighten it and test fire the gun bit by bit until the mechanism “sounds
right”. If the pinion cannot maintain close enough contact with the bevel gear (a
setting which is too loose) a very strange noise will be generated when firing. On
the other hand, if the setting is too tight the motor will stop working quickly (due
to over heating).
When shimming has been initially completed you need to determine if any of the
gears have been over-shimmed. As said in our Practical AEG Upgrade guide:
If you have difficulties putting the two halves of the mechbox back together,
chance is that you have put too many shims somewhere. One extra needless
shim on either side of any one gear will usually make it impossible for the two
halves to perfectly close.
Hold the 2 halves together tightly and see if the gears still have room to “play”
from both sides of the shell. If they are okay initially, then tighten up the
mechbox with screws and retry. If they can spin smoothly without much “play”,
write down the current setting on a piece of paper, remove the gears and
washers and move on to the next step.
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Step 3: Installing the switch assembly
You should first install the switch assembly and then the yaw control unit. Do
understand that the two screw holes for the switch assembly on the mechbox
shell may not align with the screw positions of the switch assembly. Also, part of
the switch assembly may actually block the entire unit from sitting onto the shell.
Fortunately the plastic of the switch assembly is easy to cut and drill so you
should be able to make it fits without much difficulties.
Installing the yaw control: you must ensure that it can stay flat on the shell but
can still freely and easily rotate – if it is over-tightened it will hinder the switch
plate movement and render the select fire/trigging mechanism inoperable
(symptom – the gun will dry fire non-stop without trigger squeeze just by
switching to semi or full auto). Also pay attention to the screw that you use for
securing the yaw control. If you are using a replacement screw, make sure it
isn’t too long or the screw head may get in contact with the bottom of the sector
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gear, which is definitely no good. Cut the screw short a bit if necessary.
After the yaw control unit is in place, you can slide the switch plate onto the
mechbox shell and squeeze in the switch plate spring. This spring should stay
right between the yaw control unit and the switch plate. Be careful – this spring
is very small and is very easy to fly out and get lost.
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Step 4: Installing the safety cover unit
Now is the time to install the safety cover unit.
The pictures below show how you should arrange the safety cover parts and
spring. After installation, move the parts with your finger to see if they can freely
swing (they need to swing smoothly in order to function as expected):
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Step 5: Completing the assembly process
Now you may lay out the wires and insert the gears. The proper order of gear
insertion:
1. Spur gear
2. Sector gear and anti-reversal latch
3. Bevel gear
When installing the anti-reversal, make sure you have its tip facing the correct
direction:
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Once the gears are in place, you may put in the cylinder set, the tappet plate, the
piston, the spring and the spring guide. Finally, insert the trigger and close the
mechbox. Our Practical AEG Upgrade guide covers in-depth the issue of
spring, spring guide and piston fitting. The topic of “one O’clock gear timing” has
also been addressed.
You may find a longer spring (such as the Systema spring) quite difficult to
install. As said in the Practical AEG Upgrade guide:
On most Version 2 mechboxes you can find a hole at the back of the mechbox
which allows you to see through to the spring guide. You may insert a long and
thin screwdriver, through the hole, into the butt of the spring guide. Just push
downwards on the front of the screwdriver to keep the long spring in check while
you close the mechbox.
To minimize the chance of running into problems, when installing a long spring
you should remove any spacer on the spring guide (OR inside the piston). While
a ball bearing spring guide is a good idea, it itself is also a spacer with significant
thickness.
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FULL VERSION
Step 6: Testing
At this point, perform several tests manually to ensure that the mechbox has
been properly assembled without glitches:
1, Use your finger to push the air nozzle inward. Can it move easily? And does it
rebound by itself afterward? If it does not, that means something is wrong with
the tappet plate – may be a mismatch of tappet plate and mechbox shell, a
missing tappet plate spring, or that something has gotten in the way of the
tappet plate. You will need to open up the mechbox again to find out what has
gone wrong.
)
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FULL VERSION
2, Use your right hand to control the switch plate, and use your left hand to pull
the trigger. Does the safety work as expected? Can you feel a smooth trigger
squeeze when pushing the switch plate backward? If not, check the springs for
use with these parts and make sure they have not been over-tightened.
)
)
3, Have a battery and a motor connected to the mechbox (you don’t need to
insert the motor into the mechbox. You just need to find out if the motor can dry
spin, which indicates whether electric current can pass through the switch
assembly properly). Again, use your right hand to control the switch plate, and
use your left hand to pull the trigger. Does the motor spin as expected when you
pull the trigger (and when the switch plate is in the proper firing position)?
If your mechbox can pass the above tests, you may safely and initially conclude
that the assembly process has been successfully done. Further testing cannot be
done until after you have assembled at least the lower half of the entire gun.
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FULL VERSION
Advanced wire routing – part 1
Determining the proper wire length for motor connection
As said before, routing of wires inside the pistol grip is necessary, therefore you
must carefully plan the wire length. Take M4 as an example, many people
experienced difficulties inserting the motor back into the grip for a good fit due
to the extremely tight space inside the grip. The diagram below shows how you
should arrange the wires so that the motor can comfortably fit in:
RED
BLK
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FULL VERSION
From the diagram above you can tell based on visual judgment the length of
each wire that you need to maintain. Generally speaking, you need to have a 2inch reserve for each wire.
Grip length
Extra length: about
2 inches is ideal.
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FULL VERSION
This is how you can achieve a quick fix. Get a piece of metal plate which has a
hole on it:
Then bend it and have it screwed to the motor (using the motor’s existing screw
and screw hole – you do NOT need to drill any hole on the motor). As long as you
don’t have both wires attached to the same side (a pos VS neg issue) then you
will do fine.
Bingo!
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FULL VERSION
Advanced wire routing – part 2
Most current AEG models have their batteries arranged either as small pack in
the hand guard (like the M4s), as stick pack under the top cover (like the MP5K
or the AK-47s), or as full size pack in the butt stock. Default wiring is usually
done in one of the following ways:
Stick pack
Layout 1
Switch
Layout 2
Full size pack
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Switch
FULL VERSION
Mini pack
Switch
Layout 3
If you want to house your battery externally via a battery bag attached to the
butt stock, rerouting of wires becomes an issue primarily for Layout 3. Using M4
as an example, what you may want to do is:
1, first drill a hole on the lower half of the stock ring to allow wire pass-through:
2, Then, you either re-route the wires INTERNALLY inside the mechbox through
switching to Layout 2, OR make a round trip of the wires OUTSIDE of the
mechbox:
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FULL VERSION
Switch
Layout 3 - modified
Due to the tight body fitting, doing this may be appropriate only if you use
thinner wires. The good thing about this approach is that you don’t have to open
up the mechbox for rewiring.
Page 46
FULL VERSION
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Page 47

Advanced V2 Mechbox Guide FULL VERSION

Transcription

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