April 2011 - Darrol Shillingburg

Transcription

Master Gardener Newsletter
• Doña Ana County Cooperative
Extension Service
• U.S. Department of Agriculture
• NMSU College of Agricultural, Consumer
& Environmental Sciences
Doña Ana County Extension Office
530 North Church Street
Las Cruces, NM 88001
Phone: (575) 525-6649 Fax: (575) 525-6652
Editor: Ann Shine-Ring, Certified Master Gardener
Newsletters can be downloaded at the NMSU website: http://aces.nmsu.edu/damg
 April 2011 
Volume 12, Issue #4
Plant-of-the-Month
DESERT
BIRD OF PARADISE SHRUBS
Contents:
Page
• PLANT-OF-THE-MONTH
1-4
Next Month: Carolina Jessamine
• Nutrient Deficiency in Roses
• UTEP Plant Sale
• Fungus Gnats & Bounce®
•
•
•
•
Lunch & Learn Presentation
MG Intern Profile
April MG Birthdays
Thanks for the Goodies
• April Honey-Do List
5-6
6
6
7
7
7
7
8-9
• Pest Alert: Cactus Moth
10-11
• Rustling Roses
12-13
• Solid Waste Composts in NM
14
• How To Dig Up—Remove—and
Destroy Yuccas
15
• Veggies A-Z: Tomatoes
• Seed Exchange Suggestion
• MG T-Shirts & Polos for Sale
16-17
17
Caesalpinia Pulcherrima
Caesalpinia Gillesii
18
• MG Matters
19-20
• Hotline Data: Feb. 28 to Mar. 25
20
• New Hotline Hours Opportunities 20
• Hotline Assignments
21
C
a
e
s
Caesalpinia Mexicana
Fabaceae (Bean or Legume Family)
There are three Caesalphina types of “desert bird of
paradise” shrubs that have been naturalized throughout
the desert Southwest:
• Caesalpinia Gillesii (Yellow Bird of Paradise)
• Caesalpinia Pulcherrima (Red Bird of Paradise)
• Caesalpinia Mexicana (Mexican Bird of Paradise)
Caesalpinas make the landscape come alive with
color. All are low water users and adaptable to partial
shade conditions. They like well-drained soil so they are
happy in the rocky and sandy soils found throughout the
Southwest. The Mexicana can make a great patio area
tree in tight back yards, side yards and even entryways.
All these plants are most happy when planted in full sun
or partial shade.
There has always been a great deal of confusion
when one talks of the Mexican Bird of Paradise, but
after reading this article you will know the difference.
Although the Caesalpinias are related species there
are noted differences, especially in their cold hardiness.
The Mexicana grows taller with fragrant yellow flowers
and larger leaves but is only cold tolerant to 18°F. The
Pulcherrima is a West Indies native with a denser
growth and a brilliant display of red flowers. It freezes to
the ground when temperatures reach below 25°F. Both
these species are considered borderline in the warmer
deserts because of periodic plunges in temperatures. In
the high desert, they can be grown in large tubs and
wintered over in a greenhouse but they never achieve
their beautiful potential when grown this way.
The Gillesii is native to Argentina and Uruguay and
has been naturalized throughout the desert Southwest
from California to west Texas, New Mexico, Florida and
Mexico in areas below 6,000 feet in elevation. It is cold
hardy to 5°-15°F.
Article Continued on Page 2
Hotline Client Data Located on Page 20      
New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. Doña Ana County, NMSU and USDA cooperating.
Master Gardener Newsletter—April 2011
Desert Bird of Paradise Shrubs
–Continued from Front Page–
Native Distribution: Caesalpinias can be found on roadsides,
vacant lots, dry hills, washes and mesas up to 5,000 ft..
The Yellow Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia gilliesii) shown
above is angular and picturesque. This exotic plant bears
numerous pyramidal clusters of yellow flowers with long red
stamens that look like tropical birds. In general, it opens in form
with a slender trunk, and its branches bear finely cut medium
green leaflets. Branches, leaves and fruit may be flecked with
brown specks. Flat pods that are 4-5” long follow spring to
summer bloom. This shrub is generally deciduous except in the
warmest places, but is never its best in winter. With water, it
grows rapidly to 6 feet or more high. It is usually a lower and
slower-growing plant, especially where it has to struggle.
Gilliesii is a shrub in the legume family. It is commonly
known as the Yellow Bird of Paradise, but it is not related to the
bird of paradise genus Strelitzia. Gilliesii is a striking
ornamental plant native to mainly Argentina and Uruguay. It
has been naturalized in Texas, and is fairly common in the rest
of the southwestern United States, where it is known as the
bird of paradise bush, desert bird of paradise, yellow bird of
paradise, and “barba de chivo”.
Gilliesii is self-sustaining with only 8” of annual rainfall but
looks best when watered deeply once per month. You should
protect young seedlings from the cold and rabbits for the first
few years. Once its root system has been well-developed, it will
outgrow most difficulties.
Medicine men of peoples indigenous to the Amazon
Rainforest used this plant and the similar Caesalpinia
pulcherrima, which they called ayoowiri, for curing fever, sores,
and cough. Four grams from the root is also said to induce
abortion in the first trimester of pregnancy. However, it must be
noted that the seeds and the green seedpods of this plant are
toxic, provoking severe vomiting and other abdominal
symptoms.
Page 2 of 21
Desert Bird of Paradise Shrubs FACTS
Fabaceae (Bean or Legume Family)
Yellow Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia gilliesii)
Category:
Size:
Hardiness:
Sun Exposure:
Danger:
Bloom Color:
Trees, tropicals and tender perennials
5 to 10 ft. Spacing: 4 to 6 ft.
To 5-15 degrees F
Full or partial sun; moderate shade
Seeds and green pods are toxic/poisonous if ingested
Ten long red stamens w/ five chartreuse/yellow petals;
greenish stems
Leaves:
Medium green leaflets w/ fine texture
Bloom Time:
Spring to fall
Watering:
Drought-tolerant; self-sustaining with only 8” of annual
rainfall; water twice each month to keep plant blooming
and looking its best
Wildlife:
Attractive to bees, butterflies and/or hummingbirds;
resistant to deer; protect young seedlings from rabbits
and cold extremes.
Landscaping: Suitable for xeriscaping; shows good salt tolerance.
Good choice around pools, patios, or seating areas; low
litter and no thorns
Soil pH:
Tolerates all soils, clay to dry and rocky
Propagation:
From seed; direct sow outdoors in the fall from seed;
direct sow after last frost
Seed Collection: Allow pods to dry on plant; break open to collect seeds;
remove and collect seeds; if properly cleaned, seed can
be successfully stored
Red Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia Pulcherrima)
Category:
Height:
Hardiness:
Sun Exposure:
Danger:
Foliage:
Shrubs, tropicals and tender perennials
4 to 10 ft. Spacing: 3 to 5 ft. for rows or massing
To 30°F; plant may be devastated by brief cold snaps
Full to reflected sun; no shade; blooms best in full sun
Seed poisonous and parts of plant poisonous if ingested
Deciduous; reddish to purple, gray-green when mature,
younger stems have soft and flexible spines, medium
fine texture; ten prominent bright red stamens
Bloom Color: Brilliant mix of yellow, orange to red, clustered with long
stamens, fruit orbicular and green turning to brown
Leaves:
Gray-green when mature
Bloom Time:
March to November
Watering:
Needs regular, infrequent irrigation throughout summers
but do not over water
Wildlife:
Attractive to bees, butterflies and/or birds; resistant to
deer; protect young seedlings from rabbits and cold
extremes; white flies very attracted to it in late summer
Landscaping: Large seasonal accent shrub for bright summer color,
quick screen; shows good salt tolerance; major pruning
in late winter, early spring. If stems are twiggy, cut to 6”12" above ground; light midsummer pruning will help to
control size; low litter with prickly stems
Soil pH:
Alkaline to acidic, well-drained soils
Propagation:
Self-sows freely; deadhead to prevent volunteer
seedlings next season; direct sow after last frost
Seed Collecting: Bag seedheads to capture ripening seed; allow pods to
dry on plant; break open to collect seeds
FACTS Continued on Page 4
Page 3 of 21
Desert Bird of Paradise Shrubs—Continued from Page 2
Caesalpinia Pulcherrima (Red Bird of Paradise, Dwarf Poinciana)
The brilliant orange-red and yellow flower clusters, and lush, medium
green, ferny foliage of this summer bloomer add a vibrant, tropical
effect to any landscape. A native from Mexico and the West Indies, it
thrives in the hottest places where little else will grow, blooming
continuously during the warm season. A vase-shaped shrub with
large, finely cut, feathery leaves and sometimes prickly branches, this
shrub is slow to get started, but becomes a vigorous grower and
profuse bloomer after a year or two. Once its roots are established, a
plant cut back in winter can attain a height of 3 feet or more early in the
season and bloom by early summer. Established, untrimmed plants in
areas seldom nipped by frost may reach over 6 feet in height and
become almost treelike. It can sometimes acquire Texas root rot.
This plant produces spectacular flowers in flat, pyramidal clusters at
branch tips displaying flat 3 to 6 inch seedpods that when ripe, pop
open and scatter seeds. It is an evergreen shrub or small tree in frostfree climates. In the tropics it can achieve a height of 15 to 20 feet. In
cultivation, its peacock-like flower is usually 8”-12' tall, growing that
large even after freezing to the ground the previous winter. The
Mexican Red Bird of Paradise plant lives up to its name with incredibly
showy blossoms of orange and red. The flowers are bowl-shaped, 2” to
3" inches across, with five crinkled, unequal red and orange petals, and
ten prominent bright red stamens that extend way beyond the corolla.
The flowers are borne throughout most of the year in tropical climates
and in late summer and fall where frosts occur.
Pulcherrima is very easy to grow in alkaline to acidic, well-drained
soils. This is a fast growing plant. It is moderately tolerant of salty
conditions. It benefits from pruning and can be shaped to tree form or a
shrubby bush form.
This shrub is drought-tolerant. Its peacock-like flowers die to the
ground following frost or freezing temperatures, but in milder winters at
least, it comes back reliably. It has survived temperatures as low as
18°F and can be grown as an annual in colder climates.
Propagation: The Mexican Red Bird of Paradise is easy to start from
seeds. Germination will be speeded up if the seeds are nicked with a
file before planting.
Caesalpinia Mexicana (Mexican Bird of Paradise)
This plant is rare in most areas of the U.S. but is commonly
found in far southern Texas in Cameron and Hidalgo Counties. It
is also widespread in Mexico.
It is a large shrub or small, upright tree growing to 10-15 ft tall
and 6-10 ft wide that is a well-rounded, and well-formed multistemmed small tree. This shrub or small tree has fragrant yellow
flowers and broader leaflets. Mexicana freezes back as a
herbaceous perennial at 18°F. Its smooth gray bark and lack of
spines make it an excellent choice for small patios, along
walkways and other areas where it can easily be enjoyed. Its
dark green leaves are bipinnately compound and evergreen
except in most severe cold.
Its fruit is a flat tan to yellowish pod that is 2-3 inches long. It
splits open to release seeds when they are mature. As in all
members of Caesalpinia, this plant’s seeds and pods are
reportedly toxic or poisionous when eaten.
Mexicana has great heat tolerance but does best when it
receives weekly waterings in the hottest deserts during the
summer. It tolerates almost any kind of soil from clays to dry,
rocky native soils. It’s a good choice for smaller gardens where it
can be used as a colorful shrub or small patio tree and serves
well as a focal point, fills a small, hot corner or may even be
massed to great effect where there is room.
Caesalpinia Mexicana–the real Mexican Bird of Paradise–is
a larger plant, has larger leaves and can be pruned into a small
tree up to about 12’ or 15’, is hardy to 18°F, and is a native to
Mexico, hence the name, Mexican Bird of Paradise. You can
even buy them in 24” and 36” box containers now that the tree
form has become more popular.
One interesting use of this plant is in a partially shaded
oriental garden. The Mexicana adapts well to shade and opens
up into a beautifully delicate and graceful patio tree. The more
shade the more open and more graceful it will become.
Page 4 of 21
FACTS About Desert Bird of Paradise Shrubs
–Continued from Page 2–
SOURCES (Desert Bird of Paradise Shrubs)
Mexican Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia Mexicana)
Category:
Height:
Hardiness:
Shrubs, tropicals and tender perennials
4 to 15 ft. as a tree Spacing: 6 to 10 ft.
Hardy to at least 18°F and is damaged below that but
plant recovery is quick
Sun Exposure: Full sun or partial shade in all areas
Danger:
Seed poisonous and parts of plant poisonous if
ingested
Foliage:
Semi-evergreen with dark green leaflets
Bloom Color: Yellow spikes
Leaves:
Dark green leaves much larger than in other
Caesalpinia
Bloom Time:
February to July often continuing as late as October
Watering:
Water regularly but do not over water
Wildlife:
Attractive to hummingbirds
Landscaping: Good choice for smaller gardens where it can be used
as a colorful shrub or small patio tree. Serves well as
a focal point, fills a small, hot corner or may even be
massed to great effect where there is room; moderate
litter and no thorns; smooth gray bark
Soil pH:
Tolerates all soils, clay to dry and rocky
Propagation:
Self-sows freely; deadhead if you do not want
volunteer seedlings next season; from seed; direct
sow after last frost
Seed Collection: Bag seedheads to capture ripening seed; allow pods
to dry on plant; break open to collect seeds
The deadline for submitting articles and
information for the May 2011 MG newsletter will
be Wednesday, April 27th
Contact Info: Ann Shine-Ring, Editor
[email protected]
(575) 640-7177
Blooming Season & Pruning Recommendations of Some
Common Shrubs for Low and Medium Elevations in
Arizona, on
http://www.amwua.org/pdfs/pruning_recommendations.pdf
Caesalpina Gilliesii on
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caesalpinia_gilliesii
Caesalpina Pulcherrima on
http://www.public.asu.edu/~camartin/plants/Plant%20html
%20files/caesalpiniapulcherrima.html Arizona State
University
Designing in the Desert: Will the Real Mexican Bird of
Paradise Please Stand Up? on
http://designinginthedesert.blogspot.com/2009/06/will-realmexican-bird-of-paradise.html
Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert, by Arizona
Municipal Water Users Assn.,2008
Landscaping with Native Plants of the Southwest, by George
Oxford Miller, 2007
Mexican Bird of Paradise; Arizona Wild Flowers, Wildflower
Pictures And Photos on
http://www.delange.org/MexicanBirdOfParadise/MexicanBi
rdOfParadise.htm
Mexican Red Bird of Paradise on http://www.aboutgarden.com/p/en/2856/
Plants for Dry Climates: How to Select, Grow and Enjoy, by
M. R. Duffield and W. Jones, 1998
Plants for Natural Gardens, by Judith Phillips, April 1995
Red Bird of Paradise: Arizona Wild Flowers, Wildflower
Pictures And Photos on
http://www.delange.org/BirdOfParadiseRed/BirdOfParadis
eRed.htm
Trees & Shrubs for the Southwest: Woody Plants for Arid
Gardens, by Mary Irish, 2008
Research & compilation of information for this article provided
by Ann Shine-Ring, Certified Master Gardener
Nutrient Deficiency in Roses
Sources: Month-By-Month Gardening in the Desert Southwest
(Roses Section in August), by Mary Irish, 2002 and
“Solving Rose Nutrient Problems” from Ortho’s All About Roses, Jan. 1999
During the summer, Irish states that roses can suffer overall heat
stress but they can also be subject to some nutrient deficiencies. In
particular, potted roses are more susceptible.
If you suspect a nutrient deficiency, do not try to correct it by
adding a jolt of the needed nutrient, with the exception of chelated
iron for iron chlorosis. It is much better to adjust the type of fertilizer
you are using and to continue to apply it in your regular schedule.
Nutrients other than nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are
called “micronutrients” and are often part of a well-balanced fertilizer.
It is very important to recognize the difference from a nutrient
deficiency and general heat stress.
You can identify common plant nutrition problems by looking at the
leaves of your plants. This will help you figure out what your plant
needs. Here are some guidelines:
Nitrogen Deficiency Symptoms (See Photo Above):
• Older leaves turn pale green or completely yellow.
• Plants also show reduced growth, smaller than normal leaves and
weak or spindly stems.
Caution: Do not provide a huge dose of nitrogen all at once. Adjust
your fertilizer and increase the overall fertility of the soil.
Iron Deficiency Symptoms (Common in the dry, alkaline soils of
the Southwest)—See Photo Above:
• Young leaves are pale or yellow, sometimes white with green
veins.
An application of chelated iron will correct this problem. Follow
directions on the product’s label.
Page 5 of 21
Potassium Deficiency Symptoms (See Photo Above):
• Flowers are deformed or stunted with no evidence of insect
damage.
• Flowering stems are shorter than normal.
• Leaves may turn yellow and drop.
Magnesium Deficiency Symptoms (See Photo Above):
• Older leaves turn yellow, are smaller than normal and show
white areas on both sides of the leaf.
• Edges of old leaves may curl downward and some roses
develop dark brown to purple spots randomly on the leaves.
To correct this condition, apply 1/4 cup of magnesium sulfate
(Epsom salts) to the plant two or three times a year.
Phosphorus Deficiency Symptoms (See Photo Above)
• Stunted leaves that turn a dusky or grayish green color.
• Leaves drop without turning yellow.
Zinc Deficiency Symptoms (Same symptoms as a rare copper
deficiency)—See Photo Above:
• Leaves turn pale green and form central crease as they try to
fold up.
• Leaves may tend to cluster rather than open wide and spread
normally.
Nutrient Deficiency in Roses—Continued from Page 5
Boron Deficiency Symptoms (Very Uncommon)-See Photo Above
• Short, flattened buds, especially when buds are expected to be pointed.
• Increased number of abnormally short petals in the flower. This is
especially noticeable in hybrid tea roses that have uniformly long petals
• Young leaves are light green at base and twisted.
Apply 1 teaspoon Borax per bush.
Page 6 of 21
UTEP CHIHUAHUAN
DESERT GARDEN EVENTS
************************************
Annual UTEP Native Plant Sale
FloraFEST 2011
April 16 and 17*, 2011 9:00 to 4:00 each day.
* Note: The dates have changed
************************************
Calcium Deficiency Symptoms (See Photo Above)
• Young leaves are hooked.
Apply calcium nitrate (1 to 2 tablespoons per bush per week) until
corrected.
Why Fungus Gnats Don’t Dry
Their Duds With Bounce®
Copper Deficiency (See Photo Above):
• Young leaves are permanently wilted with no chlorosis (yellowing).
Apply copper sulfate (1/4 teaspoon per bush).
Sulfur Deficiency (See Photo Above):
• Leaves are light green with lighter-green veins.
Apply soil sulfur (2 tablespoons per bush) or apply a fertilizer containing
this element.
Copies of Nutrient Deficiency in Roses are available in MG Hotline Library
By Jim McCausland, Sunset Magazine
As home remedies go, this one has a certain strange logic
to it—Master Gardeners who used Bounce® dryer softener
sheets noticed that they had fewer mosquito problems than
gardeners who didn't—especially when they kept the fabric
softener sheets in their pockets.
Though that has been neither confirmed nor disproven in
the lab, it made scientists wonder whether Bounce®
would repel fungus gnats, so they tested it. (Fungus gnats
breed in potting soil. The males merely drive gardeners mad,
while the females produce offspring that eat plant roots.)
In the Dec. 2010 issue of HortScience, researchers
reported on a project done at Kansas State University that
showed that, yes, Bounce® does repel fungus gnats.
There is sometimes a great distance between what
succeeds in controlled lab experiments and what works in
the real world, but you can download the research paper at:
http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/cgi/reprint/45/12/1830?maxtosho
w=&hits=10&RESULTFORMAT=&fulltext=Bounce&andorexactfullte
xt=and&searchid=1&FIRSTINDEX=0&sortspec=relevance&resourc
etype=HWCIT and decide for yourself whether Bounce
belongs in your insect control arsenal—or just in your clothes
drier.
Thank you to Mona Nelson, Certified Master Gardner,
for providing this very interesting article
BRANIGAN MEMORIAL LIBRARY
“LUNCH & LEARN” PRESENTATION
Date:
Time:
Place:
Page 7 of 21
MG INTERN PROFILE: Jana Melvin
Thursday, April 21
12:00-1:00 p.m.
Branigan Memorial Library
Location: Roadrunner Meeting Room
Speaker: Dr. Stephanie Walker, Cooperative Extension
Service Vegetable Specialist
Jana with her daughters and her mother
Topic:
A TALE OF TOMATOES
Synopsis: Tomatoes are the most popular vegetable grown
in home gardens. This talk will provide in-depth
information to maximize the productivity of your
plants, while minimizing diseases and disorders,
so that you can enjoy a full season of tasty,
nutritious tomatoes.
This presentation has been approved for one-hour of
education credit for all MGs attending.
Information provided by
Sylvia Hacker, Certified Master Gardener
Retirement gives Jana time to “smell the roses”. Jana Melvin,
Master Gardener Intern, has been gardening for 25 years in New
Mexico and Texas. She and her husband own a ranch on the East
Mesa southeast of Las Cruces. The headquarters for the ranch is
a 40-acre spread but Jana only gardens a small portion leaving the
rest in native desert vegetation.
Jana especially enjoys growing roses. Her favorite rose is the
“Princess Diana”. Jana was an accountant at a commercial
nursery for 25 years. After retiring, she enrolled in the Master
Gardener Program so she could learn about plants instead of
accounting.
Jana cautions people living in a desert climate that they should
always assume snakes are present and take the necessary
precautions.
Retirement not only means more time for gardening and
participating in the many Master Gardener Program activities, it
also gives Jana the opportunity to spend more time in her second
passion—enjoying her family.
It takes a little while to get used to retirement but Jana believes
she is up to the task.
Article Written By Ann Palormo, Certified MG
APRIL MG BIRTHDAYS
Ina Goldberg
Ann Shine-Ring
Carla Clouser
Mary Ozenne
John Taylor
April 5
April 16
April 20
April 21
April 29
MANY THANKS FOR THE GOODIES
We appreciate your thoughtfulness
April Goodies
Carla Clouser
Marjie Snell
Ann Shine-Ring
May Goodies
Nancy DeLouise
Janice Servais
Pam Crane
Page 8 of 21
Dixie’s Honey-Do List for April
Many of our suggested garden tasks is information coming directly from
Month-by-Month Gardening in the Desert Southwest by Mary Irish (2002).
We wanted you to know that this is an outstanding gardening resource book.
Spring is here. Plant, plant, plant, feed, feed, feed, water, water, water – you know the drill. Enjoy!
ORNAMENTALS
• The list of varieties to plant now is endless. Peruse the nurseries, home stores, and the UTEP plant
sale on April 16 & 17 in El Paso.
• Deadhead flowering plants to promote reblooming.
• Fertilize bedding plants monthly after establishment.
• Move houseplants outside. Put them in a sheltered area at first to harden off.
• Harvest seed of cool-season annuals as soon as the seedpods turn brown or begin to dry out. Put the
seed into a paper bag or container without a lid, and let the seeds dry out for a week or two in a dry,
shady spot.
• Increase watering of annual vines and larger plants like sunflowers so that the water penetrates to a
depth of 1 foot. Smaller annuals should be watered to a depth of 6”-8” for the remainder of the summer.
• Water container plants every day if they wilt or if the temperature increases.
• Continue planting summer-flowering bulbs such as spider lily, crinum, rain lily, and habranthus.
• Continue to fertilize iris monthly while they are growing and blooming
FRUIT, NUT, CITRUS & SHADE TREES
• Prune peach trees.
• Thin fruit (apples, pears, peaches, apricots) when they are the size of walnuts. Keep fruit about 4–6
inches apart, pomegranates 6 inches apart, and plums at least 2 inches apart.
• At 75% petal fall, begin cover sprays on apples and pears to prevent codling moth damage. Spinosad
is recommended and it is available at local nurseries.
• Be prepared to net trees if birds damage young fruit.
• Pecans leaf out in early April. Watch for yellow pecan aphids. Hose them off if possible but don’t
panic; their damage is largely cosmetic.
• Begin zinc sprays as pecan leaves open. See Guide H-602 (Pecan Orchard Fertilization) for timing of sprays.
• Remove fallen fruit and nuts promptly.
VEGETABLES, FRUIT AND HERBS
• Bush, pole, lima, and pinto beans, cow peas, cantaloupe, cucumbers, squash, okra,
eggplant, corn, tomatoes, and peppers may be planted now. Plant a salsa or lasagna
garden.
• If possible, orient vegetable garden on an east-west axis and plant taller crops on the north
side of the garden and shorter ones on the south.
• As with bedding plants, fertilize vegetables monthly after establishment using a product with
a 1-2-1 ratio.
LAWNS / TURF / ORNAMENTAL GRASSES
• Fertilize both cool and warm season turf species, and then water well.
• Increase irrigation frequency to once a week depending on winds and temperatures.
• Check the depth of soil moisture using a soil probe and keep 6–8 inches of water in the soil profile.
• Mow as needed but remove no more than 1/3 of the leaf at any one time.
• Seed, sprig, or sod warm season species now. See Circular 481 (Turf Grass for New Mexico) for
details.
Page 9 of 21
Dixie’s Honey-Do List for April—Continued
ROSES
• Prune climbing roses and other spring-flowering shrubs after spring bloom, then fertilize
with a high nitrogen product to induce vigorous vegetative growth.
• Water roses and other plants susceptible to powdery mildew early in the day.
• Mulch plantings to reduce both water loss and weed competition.
• Remove spent flowers regularly (i.e. deadheading). Cut back to the first set of leaves
with five leaflets when you cut off a flower or flower cluster.
• Watch the weather—it can get hot in April. Water deeply to a depth of 16”-18” which is
usually achieved by watering deeply at least once a week, but check water depth to be
sure.
CACTI & SUCCULENTS
• Cut back frost-damaged cactus. To maintain size and shape of prickly pear, remove young pads.
• Water newly planted succulents weekly and established ones every 2–3 weeks.
• Continue to plant warm-season succulents this month, but be sure they are not getting sunburn.
Pale surfaces or yellowed patches that appear suddenly are often a sign of sunburn.
• Protect the south and west sides of newly-planted succulents including cactus, if they have not
yet been hardened off to the full sun.
• Cut back any cholla or prickly pear that is too large. Cut to a joint with a saw or larger clippers. It
is not necessary to treat a cut on these type of cacti if the cut is made at the joint. For any other
types of cacti, dust the cut with sulphur to help dry it out and to prevent infection.
• Yucca should not be pruned unless it is necessary to remove dead or diseased stems.
Some of the above recommendations came from the Tucson Botanical Garden’s monthly “calendar of care” for cacti and succulents.
PESTS
• Water all annuals from below, rather than spraying foliage. This helps prevent leaf diseases from infecting your plants.
• To reduce problems with powdery mildew, water susceptible plants in the early morning as well. Also, clean leaf litter from under
plants. This will reduce pathogens.
• Irises can be invaded by the iris borer. Symptoms include a sudden decline of a flowering stalk or failure of the buds to open, coupled
with a dark, watery mass on the leaves. Cut off and destroy the infected part and the insect inside. It is possible to use systemic
insecticides to prevent infestations, but they must be applied according to package instructions.
• Look for signs of dry rot on prickly pear. Remove any affected pads and discard them.
• If birds are a problem on fruit trees, cover them with bird netting just as fruit begins to increase in size. It is very important to spread
the netting before the fruit begins to ripen as birds may poke holes in the fruit and ruin it.
• Regularly wash off roses to control powdery mildew, aphids and spider mites. Aphids can easily be removed by hand, a strong jet of
water or soapy water spray but spray early in the day as you may burn the leaves when the sun is out.
It is always important to correctly identify any insect you suspect may have caused damage to your plants. If you do not know what the
insect is, collect one in a plastic bag or small jar and take it to the Doña Ana County Cooperative Extension Office located at
530 N. Church in Las Cruces (located just north of the Main Post Office downtown.)
MISCELLANEOUS
• If you don’t have an irrigation system, build up basins that extend to the drip line around trees. Fill basins with water regularly.
• Mulch plantings to reduce both water loss and weed competition.
Page 10 of 21
PEST ALERT: Cactus Moth (Cactoblastic cactorum)
Source: Plant Protection & Quarantine, August 2009
U.S. Dept. of Agriculture, Animal & Plant Health Inspection Services
Adult Cactus Moths (Male on the left;
Female on the right)
Cactus Moth Larvae
What Is It?
What To Look for and Where To Look
Adult cactus moths are inconspicuous,
brownish-gray moths with two wavy transverse
bands on their wing tips. Females are generally
larger than males, and their wings are slightly
darker.
1. Check for Larvae. Adult moths are difficult to identify
without dissection. So the best detection strategy is to
look for the cactus moth’s distinctive larvae. Mature
larvae are reddish-orange with blackish spots forming
transverse bands. In larvae in their final (sixth) instar,
these transverse bands are nearly always divided into
spots.
Caterpillars of this moth are capable of
destroying entire stands of cacti with their
feeding. The moths feed exclusively on prickly
pear cacti, thereby threatening native
landscapes and agriculture in the Southern
United States and Mexico.
Where Did It Come From?
The cactus moth occurs naturally in the
northern parts of Argentina, Uruguay and
Paraguay, and in the southern parts of Brazil.
The moth was introduced into Australia and
South Africa, and from there spread to the
Caribbean islands and the United States.
Cactus moths are now found in Alabama,
Florida, Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi, and
South Carolina.
2. Check for Egg Sticks.
Between late February and November, adult cactus
moths lay chains of eggs called egg sticks that
resemble the naturally occurring spines on prickly pear
pads. The egg sticks are initially cream colored but
darken to brown, and later almost black, shortly before
the larvae emerge. The egg sticks are distinguished
from spines by their curved appearance. An egg stick
with about 70 eggs is approximately nearly 1 inch long.
Other native prickly pear-feeding moth species in the
genus Melitara also lay their eggs in sticks. Their egg
sticks cannot reliably be distinguished from those of
the cactus moth.
Page 11 of 21
Cactus Moth Pest Alert-Continued from Page 10
Cactus Moth Egg Stick
Damage to Prickly-Pear Cactus Pad
Caused by Larvae of the Cactus Moth
3. Check for Hollowed Cactus Pads.
Cactus moth larvae live and feed communally inside the pads of prickly pear cacti. Damaged pads
will show characteristic oozing of internal plant juices and insect droppings. The cactus moth has
been found to eat most prickly pear cactus with flat pads in the genus Opuntia. However, the
members of the genus Opuntia known as “cholla” cactus are not normally hosts of the cactus moth.
How Does it Spread?
Adult cactus moths have been known to disperse naturally a maximum of about 16 miles.
Commercial sales of infected cacti, as well as weather events, could spread the larvae and eggs
greater distances.
Where Should I Report Cactus Moth Sightings?
There are other species of cactus-feeding larvae that are native to the United States. These native
species may be confused for the exotic species, so proper identification is important. To have a
specimen properly identified, please contact your State’s Department of Agriculture or the NMSU
Entomology Department.
For information about the cactus moth and its impact on prickly pear cacti, please visit:
www.aphis.usda.gov/plant_health/plant_pest_info/cactoblastis/index.shtml.
Thank you to Mona Nelson, Certified Master Gardner, for providing this very informative article
Page 12 of 21
 RUSTLING ROSES 
One of the most satisfying—and innocent—practices a rose aficionado can follow is a kind of “rustling” that involves taking stem cuttings
from old roses in order to propagate new plants from them. In fact, some horticultural societies organize regular rustling journeys to areas
such as old cemeteries, mining towns, and other places where historic plants abound. Just be sure you have permission before you snip
plants, and do not attempt to propagate modern varieties that are protected by patents. Initially, the rose's name may be a mystery, but
once it blooms, it's fun to try to identify it by the color and form of its flowers.
One of the joys of growing old roses is the fact that most of them thrive as own root plants; that is, they will grow as well—or better—from
cuttings as they do when grafted onto a rootstock, the way most modern roses are grown and sold. Rooting cuttings is a relatively simple
matter. It is the way most old roses were handed down from one family member or friend to another, and the way many old rose collectors
prefer growing them today. Fortunately, most of our old roses are particularly well adapted to growing on their own roots and can be
successfully propagated by anyone interested in making the effort. Remember that roses still under patent (17 years from date of
introduction) cannot be legally propagated without paying a royalty to the holder of the patent.
At some point in your rose growing experiences you may wish to try your hand at experimenting with propagation to expand your rose
collection. For the amateur gardener, propagation by division, cuttings, seeds or layering will produce some very satisfactory results. From
the method listed, taking cuttings is a particularly easy and fun way to increase your rose stock. It does involve some patience however,
because it usually takes about three years for your new plant to become established.
How To Start Your Own Roses
The following suggestions for rooting rose cuttings are not likely to result in 90 to 100 percent rooting, but neither do they require special
structures, watering systems, or daily supervision. Success will vary because of the large number of variables involved, but many people
report 50 to 75 percent of the cuttings they treat in this manner develop into usable plants.
✽ When To Take the Cuttings
Roses may be rooted at any time of the year, but for home gardeners, success is much more likely during the cool months from
November through February. Late fall is a favorite time because there are usually a few blossoms still remaining on ever-blooming types
to identify them. Take cuttings in the morning when it's cool.
✽ How To Take Cuttings
The easiest part of the rose to root is the tip of stems that have recently bloomed. Ideally, these tips have withered flowers, or hips,
beginning to form. The flower heads or hips should be removed down to the first set of healthy leaves. Cuttings should be 6 to 8 inches
long and be cut from the parent plant with a sharp knife or pruning shears at about a 45°angle. It is important that the cuttings not be
allowed to dry out or be exposed to extreme heat or cold, at least until they are stuck into the rooting medium. Experienced old rose
collectors often carry Styrofoam ice chests, plastic bags, a small amount of water, and ice if they are likely to be in very hot conditions
before getting the cuttings to the rooting area. Cuttings may be stored for several days in this manner, if necessary, but the sooner they
are stuck, the better.
✽ Preparing Your Cuttings
The use of rooting hormones has been shown to increase the percentage of cuttings to root and the number of roots per cutting, but it is
not necessary for success. Rooting hormones are commercially available in powder form and are popular with most rose growers.
✽ Selecting the Location and Sticking the Cuttings
Selecting the site for “sticking” the cuttings is very important. Roses prefer a sunny location, but for rooting purposes it is usually best that
they be shielded from the hot afternoon sun. Bright light, but not direct sunlight, is ideal. It is also good if a location can be chosen where
the soil is sandy and well-drained, and where drip from the roof helps to keep the area moist. An east or north-facing flowerbed against a
house or other structure is usually a good choice.
Page 13 of 21
Rustling Roses-Continued from Page 12
✽ Selecting the Location and Sticking the Cuttings
The sand or sandy soil should be amended with l/4 to l/3 peat moss, composted pine bark, or similar material. The cutting bed should
be well tilled or spaded to insure a good blend of the soil and organic materials. Foliage on the lower half of the cuttings should be
removed, but allowed to remain on the upper part. After dipping into rooting hormone, the cuttings are ready to stick into the media.
If a powdered root hormone is used, remove some of the material from the container, roll or dip each cutting into the material and tap
the cutting lightly to remove any loose powder. Use a wooden pencil or dibble to make a hole for each individual cutting. The cuttings
should be stuck several inches or about half the length of the cutting into the media. This will prevent damaging the cutting as it is
stuck or unnecessarily removing rooting hormone. Place the cuttings 6 or 8 inches apart in rows, and label each row with a permanent
marker stating the variety, if known, or the site where collected. Also include the date the cuttings were stuck. Be sure to firm the soil
carefully around each cutting and water thoroughly.
Some growers like to use large plastic or Styrofoam cups with drainage holes added, sinking the whole thing in the bed to facilitate
later removal. This method requires more careful monitoring, since the individual pots will dry out more quickly than cuttings placed
directly in the bed. Other methods include sticking cuttings in a plastic flower pot of potting medium and bringing a clear, thin plastic
bag, such as vegetable produce is sacked in, up over the pot and cuttings, twisted shut at the top and secured with a rubber band or
twist tie. A stick or clipped wire clothes hanger in the pot higher than the cuttings keeps the bag from collapsing down around the plant
material. This will keep humidity constant inside the bag, while the cuttings are growing roots. Sometimes a glass jar is placed over
cuttings planted in the flowerbed to keep the plants humid while getting established. You must be sure that direct sun does not
overheat the contents of the jar. It is also possible to put trimmed rose lengths into potting mix in a Ziploc bag which is then hung up on
a clothesline in bright shade. It will be easy to tell when roots have appeared as they will be seen through the transparent plastic.
✽ Care During the Rooting Period
It is especially important early in the rooting period of the cuttings that they not dry out. This may require watering every other day or
so if rain does not occur. It may not be necessary to provide cold protection to the rooting cuttings in most of the Southwest. During the
first month or two after being stuck, the cuttings should begin to develop what is called “callus tissue.” This is a swelling on the cutting
tip and other areas where roots are to develop. As winter begins to turn to spring, the cuttings will sprout roots and new growth. This is
a critical time for the new plants and it is important that they not be allowed to dry out. Although the plants are usually well rooted by
late April or May, it is best to leave them in place until the next fall or winter. The young plants are extremely vulnerable to stress the
first summer and are best left to develop a good root system.
✽ Transplanting to a Permanent Location
By late fall or winter the young plants should be ready to move to a permanent location in the landscape. They will be small, but most
varieties grow quickly and will produce a fair quantity of flowers by next spring. To protect them from wind damage, it is a good idea to
prune back any tall shoots and thin the plants sparingly, if possible, at the time they are being transplanted. During the naturally
dormant period in late winter the plants may be dug either with a ball of soil or bare root. For best results, plant in locations receiving at
least a half-day of sun in well prepared soil. A regular fertilizer program may be started by mid-spring.
Planting Mediums: The planting medium that has been found to be the most successful for rooting rose cuttings is a 50-50% blend of
potting soil and perlite. This is a very light blend that encourages the roots to grow quickly. Others rose growers have used blends of
sand or vermiculite with some success.
Tips for Rooting Cuttings:
• Be sure your pruners are sharp in order to prevent crushing the rose stems.
• Rooting hormone is optional; although the success rate is much better with it.
• Label your rose cuttings with their proper name.
• It should take about 4 to 8 weeks for the cutting to root, depending on the weather and the rose variety.
• Keep the cuttings moist at all times, with good air circulation and sunlight.
• Make slits in the bottom inch of the stem to encourage more rooting; scrape off some of the stem with a knife.
• Make sure the pots are very clean before using them, especially if you are reusing them. Wash them out with soap and hot water. An
automatic dishwasher works well for cleaning small pots.
Sources for This Article:
Propagating Roses by Rooted Cuttings, By Kitty Belendez, Master Consulting Rosarian, Santa Clarita Valley Rose Society
Propagating Roses From Cuttings, by Dr. Malcom M. Manners, http://www.rkdn.org/roses/propagate.asp
Propagating Roses, RoseMagazine.com, by Irene Roth
Rose Propagation From Cuttings, By Dr. William C. Welch, Professor & Landscape Horticulturist, Texas A&M University
Rustling Roses, Sunset April 2005 by Llauren Nonar Swezey
Description & Use of Municipal Solid Waste
Composts (Biosolids) in New Mexico
NMSU Circular 562
By George Dickerson, Extension Horticulture Specialist
Dickerson states that, “The average American generates approximately 4.5 pounds
of garbage per day, for a total of 196 million tons of trash per year, most of which ends
up in landfills. Various government and private programs have been organized to divert
part of this garbage (metals, plastics, paper and cardboard, and yard and food wastes)
from landfills by recycling. Yard and food wastes often are recycled as compost.
Yard wastes and biosolids not only occupy valuable space in landfills, but they also
decompose, which results in the production of methane gas and leachates that pollute
the environment. Also, collection of yard waste is expensive. Recycling these organic
wastes as composts benefits the environment, and financial returns from the sale of
municipal composts can help offset the costs of collection and processing. Recycling
the composts back on city parks, in local gardens, on farms, or for re-vegetation of
disturbed lands, also can make such entities more sustainable.”
This article covers the following topics:
… Composting Versus Landfilling
Yard wastes and biosolids while decomposing can result in the production of
methane gas and leachates that pollute the environment. The collection of yard
waste is expensive. Recycling organic wastes as composts benefits the
environment, and financial returns from the sale of municipal composts can help
offset the costs of collection and processing.
…The Composting Process
Optimum composting conditions involve a balance of six factors: (1) the
carbon:nitrogen ratios of feedstocks, (2) particle size, (3) oxygen, (4) moisture,
(5) temperature, and (6) time. The composting process involves the generation of
heat, production of carbon dioxide, loss of water vapor, loss of mass (waste), and
production of a relatively stable humus that is free of offensive odors.
…Characteristics of Compost
Physical Characteristics: Composts should be free of metal, glass, plastic,
cement, asphalt, and other debris (no greater than 1%). Most debris can be
controlled with a good source-separation program.
Chemical Characteristics: The nutrient content of most composts is relatively low
compared to most commercial fertilizers. Composts containing manures or
biosolids tend to contain more nutrients than pure green waste composts.
Although composts are relatively low in macronutrients (nitrogen, phosphorous,
and potassium), they generally are an excellent source of micronutrients (such as
iron, zinc, and magnesium), especially composts made from biosolids. As most
nutrients in compost are in organic forms, they are slowly made available for plant
uptake, thus they are considered more environmentally friendly. Biosolid
composts, however, often contain low levels of undesirable heavy metals like lead,
mercury, arsenic, and cadmium.
Page 14 of 21
…Characteristics of Compost
Biological Characteristics: Unlike most peat
mosses, compost is biologically active. Microorganisms in compost continue to break down the
various complex carbonous materials in the
compost, slowly making nutrients available for
plant uptake.
Many microorganisms that re-colonize the
compost during the curing phase can behave like
biological fungicides by controlling various soilborne plant diseases. Composts, particularly those
made from tree bark, have been used for many
years in the nursery industry as a substitute for
peat moss.
… Uses of Compost
The major benefit of compost is to improve the
structure of a soil. It is also a source of plant
nutrients, can be used as a mulch, and, in some
cases, can be used as a natural fungicide. The
application rates of compost depend on its
characteristics and intended use.
Agricultural Cropland: Agricultural cropland is the
largest potential market for compost use, but it is
one of the least profitable. Municipal compost is
applied to cropland primarily to improve the
structure of a soil (such as to increase its waterholding capacity, cation-exchange capacity, and, in
heavy soils, water infiltration and aeration).
Nursery Crops: The “green industry” (greenhouses,
nurseries, den centers, landscape contractors)
makes up the second largest agricultural industry
by income in the U.S.
About 80% of all marketed containerized
ornamental plants are grown in media made of
75%- 80% organic matter. This industry is a huge
potential market for compost. The use of compost
in creating new topsoil is also important.
Landscaping & Turfgrass: Municipal composts can
be applied to flower beds and vegetable gardens at
a rate of 1000 lb/1000 ft2 to 2000 lb/1000 ft2.
Lower rates should be used if the soluble salt
content is high. Rates also vary with the initial
soluble salt content of the soil, type of crop
planted, and watering technique.
Peat moss has been a common component of
top-dressing mixes used to treat golf course
greens, fairways, football fields, and parks.
Mixtures often include various grades of sands,
zeolites (volcanic mineral amendment), and peat
moss. The peat moss may range from 15-20% by
volume in such mixes.
This article can be downloaded at:
http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_circulars/circ562.pdf
Copies also available from the MG Hotline Library
Page 15 of 21
HOW TO DIG UP—REMOVE—DESTROY YUCCA PLANTS
Removing a yucca plant is not an easy task—it is one of the most stubborn plants of the America's! Native to our desert regions, these
plants have also been transplanted into gardens all over the U.S. Getting rid of one is nothing short of hard work. It is one tough plant!
Yucca, also known as Adam’s Needle, is a hardy perennial plant native to dry climates in the Southwest but it is also grown as an
ornamental plant throughout the U.S. An established yucca plant has an extensive network of roots that, if left in the ground, can sprout
new yucca plants within weeks. Whether you are harvesting yucca root or completely removing the plant, handle it with care—its swordlike leaves have very sharp stickers!
Yuccas are evergreen, native perennials that can survive drought, high temperatures, poor soil--and attempts at removal. Each plant
has an extremely long taproot, which helps it seek moisture in the dry desert but also gives it a firm hold in the ground. Yuccas propagate
easily as they grow from rhizomes and produces “pups,” or small plants, right next to the parent. If you’re serious about getting rid of a
yucca, you’ll have to remove the rhizomes and all the other roots. Otherwise, the plant will come back.
Preparation: The lance-like, spiny-tipped leaves of the yucca plant can cause great harm to your arms and eyes. When removing or
destroying these plants, wear heavy clothing, long leather gloves, and goggles. Prune the leaves on the top. The yucca's leaves should
be cut as close to the trunk as possible. Be careful as these leaves are very sharp. When they are gone, it will make it easier to remove
the rest of the plant.
DIGGING UP THE YUCCA:
Use your shovel to dig a hole about two feet around the base of the yucca and three feet deep at the base of the plant. When it’s
loose, lift the yucca out of the ground (which is more easily said than done). Yuccas have an extensive root system and will resprout
from anything left behind. Pull out all visible roots. Dig as deeply as you can and get all the roots you can find. Remember, any stray root
can resprout. Pull out the plant and dispose of it immediately. Fill in the hole and wait. If you removed all of the roots, it shouldn’t grow
back.
Avoid Propagation: When you’ve removed everything, fill in the hole with soil. If you weren’t above to get all the roots, cover the area
with a piece of plywood for a year. This will block the light and kill any remaining roots. Conceal the temporary “bald spot” with a
grouping of several containers.
Finally, don’t put the roots and tubers you dug up into your compost bin. They break down too slowly, plus you run the risk of starting
another yucca colony. All pieces should be removed and placed in the trash. Yucca pieces should not be composted, as they can sprout
new roots and increase your problem.
In most cases, if you missed some roots then you’ll have to wait for the new sprouts to appear. If new sprouts appear, break them off
and pour the liquid bleach or weed killer on all of them. Repeat the process if more sprouts pop up. Keep repeating until the plant is
totally dead.
Yuccas can produce a large amount of seeds, according to Clemson Extension. To avoid new plants, remove the blossom as soon as
it appears. If you do not catch the blooms right away, remember that the seeds are not mature until the pods are dark brown.
When growing unsupervised, yucca plants form dense strands that choke out neighboring plants. The easiest way to remove yucca
plants or stands from an area is to spray them with a broad-spectrum herbicide applied during the growing season.
HERBICIDE PLUS OIL WHORL SPRAY:
Another method of getting rid of a yucca plants, is the use of an herbicide combined with an oil whorl spray is applied during the spring
and summer growing season. Products containing triclopyr, a systemic foliar herbicide, can be combined in a sprayer with diesel fuel oil
or vegetable oil to control the yucca. Using the oil ensures full coverage and absorption in the plant's whorl, which is its clustered ring of
leaves. Texas A&M Extension recommends a mixture of 15% triclopyr and 85% diesel fuel or vegetable oil.
Herbicides containing glyphosate work well against yucca and they can be poured full strength onto the plants. Because yuccas have
waxy foliage, this method works best when the herbicide is applied to fresh cuts on the plants' trunks.
Sources for this Article:
How to Destroy Yucca Plants, by Aileen Clarkson on http://www.ehow.com/list_7170771_destroy-yucca-plants.html
How To Dig Up Yucca Plants, by Denise Schoolhoven, http://ehow.com/print/how_5653506_dig-up-yucca-plants.html
How To Remove Yucca, by Hollan Johnson on http://www.ehow.com/how_4517250_remove-yucca.html
Removing Yucca in Garden Gate Magazine, Dec. 2010
VEGGIES: A To Z
Page 16 of 21
COLD & HEAT (Continued)
You can avoid cold and most heat stressors by altering your
timing so that you are growing in the optimum temperature range
for tomatoes, but you will not get the award for the first tomato of
the season.
Big Zac Tomato Varietal
Growing Tomatoes in Las Cruces
Lycopersicon esculentum • Family–Solanaceae
All too often, this most sought after garden fruit proves elusive to Las
Cruces gardeners. Based on what I have seen and heard, the reasons
are both universal to every climate and specific to southern New
Mexico. Those reasons are:
• Cold – both the killing kind and cold that slows growth, making the
plants more vulnerable to stressors
• Heat – that effects plant growth as well as blossom retention and
fruit setting
• Wind – particularly in spring when plants are young and tender
• Diseases – from spring through harvest
• Fruit Stress – some exacerbated by local soil conditions as well as
cold, heat and water stress
COLD & HEAT STRESS
In our region, cold, heat and wind factors are really timing issues –
so let’s start with cold. If you have to start growing tomatoes early in the
season, select cold tolerant, early varieties. My favorite (grown every
year) is Oregon Spring Bush. Grow them indoors or in a green house
under lights and pot them up until they are ready to start blooming.
When transplanting them out before the last frost, protect them with
frost blankets, wall-o-waters or some kind of cover.
The Chart below shows the spring and second season timing for
tomatoes. Even then, it’s not the whole picture of possibilities.
Extension publications recommend a spring planting date of Feb 15 –
Mar 15 only. If you start seed indoors on Jan 15 and pot them up
midway, you can still plant out on March 15. You can also start later
and reduce the risk of cold and heat stress even further.
Optimum nighttime temperatures for tomatoes (above 55˚F)
begin here in early to mid May. If you plan to transplant out then,
your plants will have the best of growing conditions and not spend
many nights and days stalled out waiting for warm temperatures.
Since June is our hottest month, it is the time when most blossom
drop occurs.
Transplants set out in May begin to bloom after the peak heat
and produce tomatoes during late July and August, depending on
varieties and growing conditions.
The heat stress that is most noticeable occurs with days where
temperatures are above 90˚F. However, nighttime temperatures
above 76˚F also cause heat stress that leads to blossom drop.
Increasing the humidity around the plants will reduce overall stress
during peak heat times and reduce blossom drop. Using fabric row
covers (Agribond) will increase humidity enough to reduce blossom
drop, but not eliminate it. Once the monsoon rains begin, remove
the row covers to avoid fungal diseases fostered by excess
humidity.
SECOND SEASON TOMATOES
Our growing season here is so long, that you can even start a
second crop in June and get a good harvest before frost, without
any cold or heat stress; however, an early frost remains a risk
A graph on Second Season Tomatoes: A Tomato Calendar
for Optinum Growth, is shown on page 17.
Growing Tomatoes in Las Cruces--Continued from Page 16
Page 17 of 21
FRUIT STRESS
The goal of growing tomatoes is to produce quality fruit;
however, there are many pitfalls on the road to ripe and juicy.
• Blossom End Rot – is common here because of our high
soil pH that can further limit calcium availability during
periods of water stress.
• Cracking is common here during the monsoon season
when soil water levels fluctuate
• Cat-facing disease is common if you plant early enough
for flowering to occur during cold weather or if you over
fertilize young plant.
• Sunburn is very common here if shaded fruit is exposed
to direct sun light.
The article Blemishes on the Road to Ripe and Juicy
describes the common fruit problems and provides solutions
at:
http://www.darrolshillingburg.com/GardenSite/Tomato
_Cosmetics.html
WIND STRESS: You have two choices—protection or late planting. The
best wind protectors are row covers. Next best are windbreaks. Setting
plants out in May avoids the worst of the windy season.
So there you have it, in a nutshell—what to do here to
increase your success with tomato production. Using good
culturing practices, creating optimum soil conditions, watering
properly and choosing the right varieties are also required to
be dependably successful.
Good Gardening and Good Eating,
Darrol Shillingburg
Doña Ana Extension Master Gardener
Row Cover and Windbreak/Skirt Set Up in March
DISEASE: Row covers and windbreak/skirts will protect tomatoes from
leafhopper transmitted curly top virus. Growing tomatoes dependably
requires using some protection from leafhoppers—period. Thirty-inch tall
skirts will stop nearly all leafhoppers and can be left on throughout the
season as the plants grow out the tops.
Other Common Tomato Diseases:
Cornell Vegetable MD Online is one of the best sites for information on
tomato diseases at:
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/diagnostickeys/TomWlt/Tom
WiltKey.html
Seed/Plant Exchange Suggestion
Hope Movsesian, Certified Master
Gardener, has suggested that we do a
seed exchange at our monthly meetings.
Anyone with seeds, bulbs, or extra
plants to share is encouraged to bring
them to our next monthly meeting.
Page 18 of 21
Leigh Matthewson will be presenting information on our new MG T-Shirts and Polo Shirts at our next Monthly Meeting
on Wednesday, April 13th. For your information, here is a preview of the Order Form.
ORDER FORM
Master Gardener Identity Shirts
(1) Payment: Payment in form of check must accompany order. No cash.
(2) Preshrunk: Shirts are pre-shrunk, however, there is still slight shrinkage when washed and dried. Please select size carefully.
We are unable to accept returns or exchanges.
(3) Color: There may be some color variation from shirt-to-shirt.
(4) Arrival date: You will be notified by email when shirts arrive.
(5) Distribution: Shirts will be distributed at the Extension Office upon arrival on Tuesdays between 9:00 AM – 1:00 PM.
(6) You may order more than one t-shirt or polo or a combination of both.
T-SHIRTS
Silk screened front and back , 2 color with logo on front, 1 color back, Hanes Brand, 50% cotton/polyester, maroon in
color with white & black lettering.
SIZE & CHEST SIZE
COST
S -- (36”)
$6.75
M - (40”)
$6.75
L -- (44”)
$6.75
XL – (48”)
$6.75
XXL – (52”)
$8.25
XXXL - (56”)
$9.75
QUANTITY
TOTAL
COST
(No sizes above XXXL in this brand. However, larger sizes can be special ordered in another brand.)
SUBTOTAL #1
POLO SHIRTS
Silk screened front and back, front 2 color with logo, 1 color on back, Hanes Brand, 50% cotton/polyester, maroon in color with
white & black lettering.
SIZE & CHEST SIZE
COST
S -- (36”)
$14.25
M – (40”)
$14.25
L – (44”)
$14.25
XL -- (48”)
$14.25
XXL – (52”)
$15.50
XXXL – (56”)
$17.25
QUANTITY
TOTAL COST
(No sizes above XXXL in this brand. However, larger sizes can be special ordered in another brand.)
SUBTOTAL #2
SUBTOTAL #1
SUBTOTAL #2
Date:
TOTAL
CUSTOMER INFO:
Date Order Received:
Name:
Quantity of Shirts Ordered
Email:
Total Cost:
Phone:
Received by:
Check #:
Page 19 of 21
—Monthly Meeting, March 9, 2011—
 WELCOME—Juliet Williams called the meeting to order.
 COMMITTEE/PROJECT REPORTS
MG Hotline—(Sylvia Hacker) Sylvia reported that Jackye Meinecke has asked us to do a once a month hotline at Enchanted Garden. It
will be on 2nd Thursdays, 9-1, first one will be on April 14. Also, Mountain View Market has requested a MG table at its Farmers Market
twice a month. If you are interested in doing either of these, sign up and we will let them know if there is interest. Jeff has requested a
new “Hotline Offsite Contact” form, please be sure to fill one out for all contacts. There is a notebook with the forms in the offsite box. This
documentation is very important for our continued funding.
MG Service Hours—(Pamela Crane) Pamela said to turn in your hours. Apparently the cold weather affected the University server, so
we are having problems updating, but please continue to turn them in. You can also email your timesheets to Pamela Crane at:
[email protected] MG timesheets can also be downloaded from our MG website.
MG Newsletter—(Ann Shine-Ring) Ann stated that the Plant of the Month for April will be the desert Bird of Paradise bushes/shrubs. Also
there will be articles on propagating roses, the use of biosolids and how to get rid of yuccas. Veggie of the month will be tomatoes.
Ann also announced that she has the digital versions of the photos from MG grad event. She passed around thumbnail copies of these
photos and stated that if you want copies email her and she will send them to you. (Copies of these photos are now posted on the bulletin
board in our MG Office.)
MG Website—(Ann Shine-Ring) Ann stated that the MG website with all the updated info will be up by next week. The revised MG class
application forms are now available online and copies are also available at the Cooperative Extension Office. Juliet stated that the next
MG class will begin on August 18 for a half-day orientation meeting. We have not yet set a date for applications to be turned in.
Farmer’s Market—(Dixie LaRock) Dixie stated that Russ Smith had called her about the NM centennial celebration; the Sept 3 event will
be focusing on the Farmers Market. They would like us to have a plant sale as well as info table. Sylvia stated that our nursery license
forms and money have been turned in and we are now waiting for the bureaucracy.
Lunch & Learn Presentation—(Sylvia Hacker) Lunch & Learn for April 21 will be “A Tale of Tomatoes” with Dr. Walker. If anyone wants
to do a presentation, please contact Sylvia at: [email protected]
 CONTINUING BUSINESS
• Annual Tour of Gardens (May 14th) Bonnie Eisenberg stated that there are five gardens designated at this point in the Las Alturas
neighborhood. A sign-up sheet for volunteers was available at our meeting. Bonnie said this is a very fun event and you will also get a
free ticket to see the rest of the gardens either before or after your shift. Tickets will be distributed at our April meeting.
• 2012 State MG Conference—(Dale Petzold & Jeff Anderson) Sign up sheets will be on the back counter, previous ones have been
lost, so please sign up again for Committees. Jeff talked about possible keynote speakers for the Conference. He has asked Sean
Hogan to be keynote speaker. He is a world famous rare plant expert. He did not ask for a fee. Brad Lancaster (guru of rainwater
harvesting & rammed-earth homes) has also been asked, but his fee is $2,000 plus travel and expenses. He could also be a keynote
and do hands-on workshop. It was suggested that this session be also provided in the evening and open to the public and see if the
City would underwrite the expense. Scott Calhoun was also suggested as a possible presenter.
• Spring Garden Expo—(Ann Palormo) The Expo is scheduled for Saturday, April 2, from 10-3 at Enchanted Gardens. Darrol was not
available to do a presentation on irrigation systems, so if anyone else can do this topic, please sign up.
• Home and Garden Show—(Maryann Pribillo) This Show was coming up on the weekend. Maryann stated that a lot of plants were
taken over to the Convention Center yesterday. Mary Thompson will be sending reminder emails to all those who signed up. Gary
Guzman from Color Your World is sponsoring one of the big screens--a thank you card to him was circulated. Sat & Sun, admission is
$5. If you are working at our table, please wear your MG name badge. Come in the West door and check in. We will be able to set up
our table on Friday night, but don’t know what time yet.
• 4-H Contest—(Juliet) Juliet passed out two sign-up sheets for volunteer coaches for 4-H contest. First contest is June 11. You will
meet with students at a garden center or grocery store to teach them vegetables and plants.
• Kids, Kows and More (Juliet) Sign up sheet also going around. Our role is to guide the 4th grade students around the various exhibits.
March 29, 30 and 31. 8-1, and a free lunch.
• Apple and Pear Workshop (Jeff Anderson) This Workshop will be held at the DAC Extension Office on Tuesday, March 29 from
8:30am to 5pm. There will be many good presenters. There will be a limit of 25 people. There is a $25 registration fee. Please register
by March 22nd.
• Finance Committee Report (Mary Thompson) No coffee will be provided at our meetings anymore, as Starbucks has begun charging
for this service.
• MG T-Shirts & Polos (Leigh Matthewson) Leigh talked about the MG shirt design. She will make a presentation at our April meeting
about these shirts. We will take orders at that time and should have them by early May. (See page 18 for the T-Shirt/Polo Order Form.)
• Pecan Conference (Jeff) The Conference went smoothly this year. We could use more next people next year. Eating the losing entries
was the best part. China is planting a lot of pecan trees, but not in good soil and not with good cultivation practices, so we probably
don’t have to worry about that market for a while. They only have 1500 acres planted.
Meeting Minutes Continued on Page 20
Page 20 of 21
—Monthly Meeting, March 9, 2011 Continued—
 CONTINUING BUSINESS--Continued
• UTEP Plant Sale This sale will be held on April 16 & 17. If you sign up to work the sale, you get a discount and first pick.
Contact person is Kaye Mullins--information was provided in the March MG newsletter. A flyer for this event was also provided.
• High on the Desert Conference (Pam Crane) She reported on this Conference that was held in Sierra Vista, AZ.
 NEW BUSINESS & ANNOUNCEMENTS
• Quarterly MG Coordinators’ meeting will held at 9:00am at MG Extension Office.
• A signup sheet was on the back table for the Mothers’ Day event at the Lavender Farm.
• Mona Nelson had the opportunity to talk to Congressman Steve Peace recently about funding for the Cooperative Extension
service. She stated that he had voted to cut funding completely.
• Purchase of Olive Trees Hope Movsesian talked about group purchasing olive trees. She will be making another purchase this
year if anyone is interested. The order should be placed at the end of March or early April. We are experimenting with various
varieties, so see which are cold hardy enough for this region and will do well on our various kinds of soil. Some are better for oil
some better for fruit. Cold hardy trees can take down to 12º but they usually come back. They don’t take much water, so could
be very good for this region.
• Tom Packard mentioned a wonderful exhibit by Richard Sloan on Raptors of the Southwest. Highly recommended. It is at the
SW Environmental Center.
• Joan Woodward mentioned the International Resilience Society meeting in Tucson (sustainability under duress). She will
provide a report on this meeting.
• Freeze plant damage. Jeff asked us to please record what is going on with our plants using the spreadsheet that was sent out
to us. Some mesquite trees will be dead to the ground. Bonnie reported that her Mexican elders are coming back. Rosemary
may be completely dead, but some are okay, depending on varieties. Palo Verde trees are probably dead to ground. Also,
California Fan and Mexican fan palms are probably gone as well.
 EDUCATIONAL PRESENTATION:
Porous Capsule Subterranean Irrigation Systems: Way Beyond Ollas…By Darrol Shillingberg
Please go to Darrol’s website to view this presentation at http://www.darrolshillingburg.com/GardenSite/SubterrIrrigation.html
• Next month’s educational program will be provided by Dr. Lindeman who will be talking about soil ecology. Bring in your soil test
document and he will help us interpret them.
Meeting Snacks Thanks to Colette Bullock, Leigh Matthewson, and Val Fernandez for our delicious snacks today. Next month,
Carla Clouser, Marjie Snell and Ann Shine-Ring will be our snack providers.
Next MG Business Meeting–Wednesday, April 13, 2011
Bonnie and Juliet
MG Hotline Client Data
(Feb. 28 to March 25, 2011)
# Total Contacts
# Telephone Calls
# Emails
# Issues Addressed
61
61
0
107
Geographic Area
Las Cruces
Bayard
Chaparral
La Mesa
Mesquite
Mesilla
56
1
1
1
1
1
La Mesa
1
Subject of Inquiry
Disease
1
Fertilizer
6
Freezing
30
House Plants
2
Insects
7
Irrigation/Water
1
Lawns
1
Plants
0
Pruning
6
Shrubs
25
Soil
7
Trees
20
Vegetables
0
Weeds
1
New Hotline Offsite Opportunities
Jeff Anderson has approved some new offsite Hotline events:
• Once per month help desk at Enchanted Gardens
• Mountainview Growers Market outreach
• “Picacho Hills Art in the Garden” Tour event.
Adding these opportunities to the monthly Farmer's Market
help desk and the annual Tour of Gardens provides us with
multiple public outreach and more MG hours earning
opportunities.
To go along with the new venues, a Hotline offsite event
contact sheet has been developed to be used at all public
Hotline/help desk venues. If you're interested in participating
in any of these events or just want more information please
contact:
Sylvia Hacker, DACMG Hotline Coordinator
(575) 647-4394 Email: [email protected]
Page 21 of 21
Our Hotline hours are now 9am to 1pm. Also, please remember to be present on your assigned date
for the Hotline. If another MG forgets, please give him or her a “reminder” call. Thank you.
These assignments were current as of March 30, 2011
MG Hotline Assignments for April
MG Hotline Assignments for May
Friday, April 1
Alberta Morgan
Bonnie Eisenberg
Tuesday, May 3
David Hutchinson
Mary Andrews (I)
Tuesday, April 5
David Hutchinson
Dick Hiss
Mary Andrews (I)
Friday, May 6
Alberta Morgan
Linda Morgan
Jill Klann (I)
Friday, April 8
Linda Schukei
BG Hosie (I)
Tuesday, May 10
Certified MG
Sharon Cunningham (I)
Tuesday, April 12
Russ Boor
Dick Hiss
Rosanne Weeks (I)
Friday, May 13
Russ Boor
Linda Morgan
BG Hosie (I)
Friday, April 15
Linda Morgan
Marjie Snell (I)
Tuesday, April 19
Certified MG
Mary Andrews (I)
Friday, April 22
David Hutchinson
Linda Schukei
Marjie Snell (I)
Tuesday, April 26
Russ Boor
Mary Thompson
Sharon Cunningham (I)
Friday, April 29
Certified MG
Tuesday, May 17
Mary Ozenne (I)
Certified MG
Friday, May 20
Marjie Snell (I)
Certified MG
Tuesday, May 24
Intern
Friday, May 27
Dale Petzold
Jana Melvin (I)
Tuesday, May 31
Dale Petzold
Marjie Snell (I)
Next Monthly Meeting of the
Doña Ana County Master Gardeners
(We are now meeting on the 2nd Wednesday of every month)
❀ ❀❀
Wednesday, April 13, 2011 @ Branigan Library
Roadrunner Room, 2nd Floor
9am-11am
Certified MG
Intern

April 2011 - Darrol Shillingburg

Transcription

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