The Australian Way September

» BESPOKE
Suits, shirts, ties, shoes:
handmade clothes tailored to
enhance your body shape are the
ultimate in men’s fashion
PHOTOGRAPHY RICHARD WEINSTEIN
STYLING STAV HORTIS
» STRIPES
Candy stripes are the flavour of the month
» SAVE YOUR SKIN
Skin protection in summer is important for all ages
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MEN’S FASHION
PHOTOGRAPHY RICHARD WEINSTEIN
STYLING STAV HORTIS
SUITABLY DRESSED
Clothes make the man, but man makes the clothes and if you
want a suit to suit you, handmade to order is the way to go.
B
ESPOKE IS A TERM that originates from an era
when customers would choose cloth from bolts and
the fabric was then considered to be “spoken for”.
It has come to mean tailoring with specific measurements
and original patterns for each customer, as opposed to
made-to-measure, which uses a pre-existing pattern.
The number of people entering traditional bespoke
tailoring is diminishing. John Cutler, a fourth-generation
tailor (his grandfather and father made uniforms for Qantas
crew during and after WWII), toured Savile Row recently
and says UK tailors face the same problems finding skilled
staff. Some are employing more machine work or having
their suits partly made offshore.
Cutler travels overseas several times a year to visit
suppliers, source fabric and see clients. On his last trip to
Florence he located some rare silk velvet made by a craftsman whose 200-year-old looms had been recommissioned
for the restoration of the Kremlin in Moscow.
Cutler recently spoke to international Bentley salespeople
explaining the lifestyle of a potential Bentley owner. Some
clients buy four or five suits at a time. He refers to one
captain of industry (no names, he’s as discreet as a diplomat) who buys the same suits every six to seven years.
The final cost of a suit mostly depends on the fabric.
Cutler has made a $50,000 overcoat of vicuña. “The fabric
should be commensurate with the requirements. Is it for
a wedding, a boardroom or riding horses?”
Alan Roberts, a Sydney-based management
consultant, allowed Qantas The Australian Way to
document the creation of his suit over several weeks.
JOHN CUTLER
1
FINISHED SUIT
Voila! John Cutler adjusts
the final fitting of Alan
Roberts’s handmade suit.
A bespoke suit takes
skilled craftspeople about
60 hours, with the coat
alone requiring some
45 hours of work.
COST: $4
500-$60
00 with “g
practical cl
ood,
oth” – dep
ends on fa
TIMING:
bric.
6-8 week
s, depend
on comple
ing
xity and th
e client’s
availabilit
y for fittin
gs.
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JH Cutler Bespoke Tailor
& Shirtmaker, est 1884
23-25 O’Connell Street, Sydney.
(02) 9232 7122.
www.cutlerbespoke.com
TAILORED SUIT
STEP ONE
MEASUREMENT & STYLE
While taking 14 different measurements, John Cutler also notes
Roberts’s stance, the slope of his shoulders and whether both sides
of his body are even. He establishes what style Roberts wants
(double-breasted) and builds a rapport. “Communication is very
important. It’s not just the measurements, it’s understanding
expectations. What I do in life is fulfil expectations.”
STEP TWO
CHOOSING FABRIC
Roberts chose a wool and cashmere English
flannel style, brown with a cream chalkstripe;
brown shot-satin lining; buffalo horn buttons;
and yellow striped Bemberg lining, a slippery
fabric that allows sleeve arms to move easily.
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MEN’S FASHION
STEP THREE
3
PATTERN DRAFTING
Individual templates are created for each client based upon
measurements and chosen style. Cutting is a vital stage.
“The better the cut, the more straightforward the process,”
Cutler says. Good cutting reduces the need for multiple
fittings. Cutler’s 42 years of experience allow him to
express the individuality of each suit while matching
the body shape and required style.
STEP FOUR
CUTTING THE CLOTH
4
Cutting interprets the templates into cloth and Cutler stresses
the importance of the cutter’s role. “Sometimes I vary the pattern
to fine-tune the line according to what I know will work for a
particular figure. Clients often think the more fittings the better,
but the more you can do at the beginning, at the cutting stage,
the better the outcome.” While some people talk about a particular
tailor’s style, Cutler believes he must be flexible enough to provide
what the customer wants, whether “a loose Boss-style or a tightfitting Guards outfit”.
STEP FIVE
CANVAS AND HAND-STITCHING
5
The wool, cotton and horsehair layers of interlining create
the superstructure for the suit. The chosen fabric is draped
over this shell, which is then lined. Painstaking handstitching creates a shape that is not necessarily the
shape of the client, but ensures a flattering
line as well as free movement and comfort.
Specialists work on coats, trousers, waistcoats
and overcoats, each craftsman working on
one garment from start to finish.

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MEN’S FASHION
6
AUSTRALIA SLUG CLEAR
STEP SIX
THE FIRST FITTING
BESPOKE TAILORS
This is really about proving the pattern,
says Cutler, and picking up any nuance
that may have been missed by the eye.
It allows the client to say whether it’s the right length,
whether there is too much room or too little. The
cutter checks the progress. The coat or trouser
maker may be called from the workroom to
see the garment they have worked on.
NEW SOUTH WALES
JH CUTLER
Ground floor,
23-25 O’Connell Street,
Sydney. (02) 9232 7122.
www.cutlerbespoke.com
VICTOR ALACQUA
28 Cross Street,
Double Bay, Sydney.
(02) 9328 1630.
Has been in Double Bay 31
years. Trained in Sydney under
a “top Italian tailor”. Fabric
is “very, very important.
Everything is the very best
available”. Works 6-8 weeks
on a suit. Customers are
“top businesspeople”.
STEP SEVEN
SETTING IN SLEEVES
7
At measuring and cutting stage, close
attention is paid to the shape of the client’s
shoulders and how arms are held. If one
shoulder is lower, the arm is often held back;
the sleeve needs to be set back for a clean
line and the length adjusted. Cutler now
checks overall balance, and that the body
of the garment is close to the neck, before
the collar goes on.
CASA ADAMO
Shop 2, 39-45 Norton Street,
Leichhardt, Sydney.
(02) 9569 6419.
www.casaadamo.com
Adamo Marrone started his
award-winning business in
Haberfield in 1970. “We are
very dedicated. All handmade,”
he says. Fabric is top brands
from Europe; customers are
“top businesspeople”.
VICTORIA
9
8
STEP EIGHT
CHARLES MAIMONE
1 Crossley Street,
Melbourne. (03) 9662 1636.
Has worked in Melbourne for
45 years. Trained in Messina,
Sicily. Early customers included
restaurateurs (Florentino, The
Society), but these days are
businessmen and politicians.
BALANCE & FITTING
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
At this stage the right shoulder was
undone and let out to allow for Roberts’s
different shoulder heights. Trouser
lengths are checked to ensure the legs
fall properly on the shoe. Do the seat
and waist of the trouser have clean lines?
The collar must sit properly on the neck
but still allow for the correct fall where
the coat buttons will fasten.
TERRY GASSON
111 Gays Arcade,
Adelaide. (08) 8223 2035.
Trained in Savile Row and has
been in Gays Arcade for 26
years. Describes bespoke as
“an individual making for an
individual”. Has interstate and
international customers.
STEP NINE
FINE-TUNING
The final balance is checked. Buttons are
adjusted at the front. Cutler checks the
fullness of the jacket at the waist and
across the back so there is room to move,
but not pucker.
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AUSTRALIA SLUG CLEAR
FINISHED SHOE
Most Andrew McDonald shoes
use Australian or New Zealand
calf leather tanned in Italy.
ANDREW MCDONALD
Shoemakers since 1992
58 William Street, Paddington.
(02) 9358 6793.
www.andrewmcdonald.com.au
HANDMADE SHOE
If the shoe fits, it’s probably the
handmade product of a craftsman.
COST: men
’s shoes
start at $16
00.
TIMING:
4-6 week
s.
A
FORMER PHOTOGRAPHER, Andrew McDonald’s
“eureka!” moment came when shooting London
shoemaker Paul Harnden. Back in Australia, he
acquired a TAFE certificate in footwear and in 1996 won a
Churchill Fellowship to study with master shoemakers John
Lobb in London and Paris, “where I learned to make men’s
shoes properly”. Most of his male customers are businessmen with problem feet and orthotics “who need to look
smart”. He also created boots for both the Star Wars and
Superman movies that were filmed in Sydney.
STEP THREE
3
STEP ONE
1
MEASURING
Width, height and length of
the foot are measured and its
shape traced. A wooden last
(“the chassis that determines
the shape of the shoe”) is
chosen depending on size
and style. The customer
chooses leather type, colour,
grain and thickness.
2
CLOSING & LASTING
“Closing” involves stitching
the parts of the upper, the
lining and stiffening. In
“lasting”, the insole is tacked
to the bottom of the last, the
upper is pulled over the last
and glued to the insole to form
a toile. A second fitting at this
stage ensures a correct fit.
STEP FOUR
FINISHING & POLISHING
Once the toile is adjusted to the individual foot to ensure the
upper fits correctly, the sole is welted (stitched) onto the shoe.
The shoe is finally buffed to a polish.
4
STEP TWO
PATTERN MAKING
A two-dimensional card
pattern of the upper is made
from the three-dimensional
last, incorporating details such
as stitching and brogue holes
(as in the finished shoe photo).
“Clicking” is the cutting of the
leather from the pattern.
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MEN’S FASHION
ROSLYN & EUGENE
NOTERMANS
Hemden Master Shirtmakers, since 1974
1024-1026 High Street, Armadale,
Melbourne. (03) 9509 0933.
www.hemden.com.au
SHIRTS SO GOOD
A bespoke shirt makes sure
you look hot under the collar.
C
OLLARS MATTER to Eugene Notermans. A bespoke
shirtmaker for 32 years, he prides himself on the
difference that a collar can make to a businessman’s
appearance. The subtle nuance between collar styles can
complement the chin and face – or not. “We look at it from
the point of view of a passport photo; you only see the face
and collar.” The bespoke experience provides advice and
consultation to customers. “We dress people for public
appearances and boardrooms. We work in a very
traditional European way,” Notermans says.
1
THE FINISHED SHIRT
The fabric is made of Egyptian
cotton yarn, spun and woven
in Switzerland. The classical
collar has enough width and
height to take a thick or a slim
necktie knot. The customer
has chosen French cuffs, no
pocket and mother-of-pearl
buttons. Measurements
include body length from
collar to bottom of trouser fly,
upper arm, forearm and wrist.
ern
irt, patt .
first sh
:
75
T
3
S
$
,
O
g
C
ttin
g and fi ts, $325.
makin
ir
h
uent s
eks.
Subseq
ree we
o to th
tw
:
G
TIMIN
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STEP TWO
2
STEP ONE
MEASURING UP
Eugene Notermans works
from top to bottom,
starting with the neck
measurement, fitting two
fingers within the tape to
allow enough room. He
measures the yoke from
shoulder to shoulder, noting
the shoulder’s slope and
the customer’s body shape.
He measures chest (with
a deep breath), waist and
hips. Sleeves are measured
from the nape, across
the shoulder to the
wrist knuckle.
CHOOSING FABRIC & STYLE
If the customer travels and uses harsh
hotel laundries, Hemden recommends
end-on-end, Oxford, pinpoint or twill
fabrics that have two-fold or more
densely woven cotton. Hemden
advises which collar style flatters the
wearer. French cuff or barrel? Pocket
or no pocket? Fitted or loose? Pleats?
STEP THREE
PATTERN & CUTTING
A pattern maker is always present
at this stage to see the customers
posture and body shape. A pattern
is drafted on paper and the amount
of material required is calculated.
The fabric is cut off the roll, then
washed to remove sizing and to
preshrink. It then goes to the pattern
maker and is pressed and cut.

3
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MEN’S FASHION
BESPOKE
SHIRTMAKERS
4
STEP FOUR
STITCHING
The shirt is loosely
stitched and the cuffs
and collar attached for the
first fitting. This takes about
20 minutes with the pattern maker
in attendance. The shirt and pattern
are adjusted where necessary. Back in
the workroom the shirt is recut and fully
reassembled with collar and cuffs, and
finished according to customer
specifications. The thread used
matches the weight and density
of the fabric.
STEP FIVE
BUTTONS & CARE
Hemden uses mother-ofpearl buttons sourced from
Japan. High-quality machines
make very fine buttonholes.
Buttons are strategically
positioned according to
chest prominence to
minimise front stretch, especially on fuller
figures. Notermans recommends avoiding
commercial laundries (“from damp to dry in six
seconds”) and says using a rajah (silk) cloth when
ironing collars and cuffs at home can prolong
shirt life by 40 per cent.
5
6
STEP SIX
CUFFS & COLLAR
Hemden prefers fused collars where the
lining is adhered to the fabric with heat
and pressure. This gives a smooth collar,
as lining and fabric can shrink at different
rates. Hemden has 40-50 collar shapes.
“Variations are subtle. Half a centimetre
can make a difference to whether it will
complement the chin and face.”
Several shirtmakers offer
“bespoke” services that involve
personal measurements, but
no fittings. Most have facilities
to order on-line once the client
has been measured.
THOMAS APPLEBEE
(02) 9502 6200. www.
thomasapplebee.com.au
Tailor Roger Touma measures
in offices (about 15 minutes)
and produces unique patterns
for each customer. Customers
choose from all Italian fabrics.
$180 a shirt; three-week
delivery. Part of the Skye
Group that makes shirts for
top-end retailers including
Henry Buck’s, Harrolds and
Vince Maloney & Co.
BESPOKE BY GANTON
(02) 9550 1044.
www.bespokeshirts.com.au
Danielle Marmot started
custom-making shirts in 1997
using computerised
technology. She visits clients
at home or in offices to
establish size and style.
Customers choose from 400
available fabrics. Sessions
take from 15 minutes to an
hour. Measurements are fed
into a computer that produces
individual patterns for each
client. Shirts are delivered
18 working days later. Prices
depend on fabric and range
from $190 to $280. She visits
Brisbane and Melbourne.
HERRINGBONE
(02) 9212 2911.
www.herringbone.com.au
Herringbone offers a
“bespoke” service with
measurements taken in shops
and a seven-day turnaround.
Customers choose from madeto-measure style books and
seasonal fabrics. $325 for one
shirt, $279 each for three.
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MEN’S FASHION
FINISHED TIE
Each Rochefort tie has an
embroidered marque.
A robust, hand-knotted stitch
is a mark of a well-made tie.
SHANE ROCHEFORT
Bespoke neckties, shirts & suits since 2001
Shop C2, ground floor, 185 Elizabeth Street,
Sydney. www.rochefort.com.au
BESPOKE NECKTIE
The perfect accompaniment for a
bespoke suit? A bespoke necktie.
A
HANDMADE, SIX-FOLD NECKTIE has substance.
The stiffness of the fabric and construction ensures
a perfect knot and that the tie sits on the chest with
what Shane Rochefort calls an “abundance factor”. It is
pleated three times on each side of the back gusset and
provides weight and a generous roll. Rochefort designs all
his silks, which are manufactured in Italy (for jacquards)
and Britain (for twills). One of the few bespoke necktie
makers in Australia, he also tailors made-to-measure shirts
and suits, which are lined with his tie fabrics.
STEP ONE
1
CHOOSING A FABRIC
A necktie cut-out template
helps visualise the completed
tie when selecting fabric.
The cloth is always cut on
the bias at a 45-degree angle
to the weave to ensure the
optimum hang.
STEP TWO
PATTERN CUTTING
All components of the necktie
are cut to match the pattern
of the fabric. Twills tend to
be striped while jacquards
have more elaborate patterns
and brocades.

2
COST: tailo
red, hand
made usin
designed
g bespoke
fabric, $2
95. FOUR
off-the-ra
-FOLD
ck, $195.
SIX-FOLD
rack, $24
off-the5. TIMIN
G: off-theone week
roll fabric,
; bespoke
fabric, 10
weeks.
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STEP THREE
ASSEMBLING PARTS
3
STEP FOUR
4
Each necktie comprises six
pieces: the lining of combed
Italian or Danish wool (main
photo); the front and back
blades, which are seen; the
front and back tipping, which
is sewn onto the blades; and
the neckline, which is sewn
between the front and back
blades. The lining is inserted
(bottom left) and the tie is
then folded and pressed to
give shape.
STEP FIVE
5
FRONT TIPPING
The front and back tipping
covers the lining. The tipping
is seen when the tie is viewed
from the back and, with the
the point of the blade, forms
a perfect square. The fabric
rolls at the edges of a handmade necktie rather than
being flat-pressed.
FINAL STITCHING
A single strand of thick gauge
cotton is anchored at each
end by hand knotting and
stitched up the entire back
length of the necktie. This has
enough give to permit the tie
to be pulled when unknotting,
but ensures the tie does not
warp or strain.
TIE RACK
As an alternative to bespoke
designs, here is a selection
of off-the-rack designer ties.
$245
$220
$180
$260
$260
$198
1
2
3
1 Armani
2 Hermès
3 Zegna
4 Louis Vuitton
5 Louis Vuitton
6 Burberry
4
5
6
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MEN’S FASHION
8
7
9
2
6
10
1
4
3
5
CANDY STRIPES
1 Paul Smith Classic
underwear $59.
(02) 9331 8222.
4 Déclic socks $30.
(03) 9387 4811.
2 Déclic tie $100-$140.
(03) 9387 4811.
5 Henry Buck’s
handkerchief $30.
1800 651 399.
3 Paul Smith cotton robe
$190. (02) 9331 8222.
6 Gant multistripe belt
$139. (02) 9221 4994.
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7 Derek Rose
multistripe pyjamas
from Henry Buck’s.
$295. 1800 651 399.
8 Bally Abaia travel
bag $1150.
9 Déclic tie $100-$140.
(03) 9387 4811.
10 Arthur Galan AG
multistripe shirt
$198. (03) 9827 3703.

(02) 9519 2433.
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MEN’S FASHION
AUSTRALIA SLUG CLEAR
6
2
3
7
5
1
4
10
8
9
11
1 Herringbone tie
$119-$170. (02) 9212 2911.
4 Henry Buck’s braces
$125. 1800 651 399.
7 Herringbone tie $119
-$170. (02) 9212 2911.
2 RM Williams Monsoon/
Copper Redbank shirt
$89. 1800 339 532.
5 Gianfranco Ferré
business shirt from
Harrolds. $550.
1300 888 828.
8 Richard James socks
from Déclic. $40.
(03) 9387 4811.
3 Déclic tie $100-$140.
(03) 9387 4811.
6 Herringbone Carnival
shirt $179. (02) 9212 2911.
9 Henry Buck’s
handkerchief $30.
1800 651 399.
10 Gant Orion blazer
from Henry Buck’s. $495.
1800 651 399.
11 Luciano Rossetti
cufflinks from Farage.
$149. (02) 9212 4509.
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MEN’S SKINCARE
BAN THE TAN
WORDS LARA PICONE
L
OVE FOR THIS SUNBURNT LAND causes our
skin more damage than we realise. With one in two
Australian men developing sunspots, a precursor to
skin cancer, Dr Stephen Shumack, honorary secretary of
the Australasian College of Dermatologists, warns that we
are paying the price for our nonchalance.
CLARINS SPF 30
Sun Control Cream, $38.
Incorporates plant extracts to
maintain skin’s longevity. Sun
Control Stick, $30. Designed to
protect ears, nose and lips.
YOU MAY NOT KNOW
It can take only 10 minutes under the Australian sun to
burn. Many of us commend ourselves for evading sunburn.
However, cumulative sun damage is just as dangerous as
the obvious stinging and peeling damage. Regular daily
sun exposure without protection can add up to the
equivalent of two sunburns a week. When you’re flying,
keep in mind that you’re closer to the sun. UVA rays don’t
manifest in physical signs of burning, so you won’t notice
the damage. Close the blind if you’re in the window seat and
apply a light sunscreen.
DANGER ZONES
Australians are well conditioned to reaching for the hat and
sunscreen when venturing outdoors. The popularity of the
cap versus the wide-brimmed hat is a contentious issue for
dermatologists. The cap leaves the ears, temples and back
of the neck exposed. If you choose to wear a cap, apply
sunscreen to those areas that aren’t protected. The backs
of hands are a problem area for people who do a substantial
amount of driving. If you’re going on a long drive you may
need to invest in driving gloves or reapply sunscreen hourly.
Men with shaved heads or who are sparse up top must
protect their crown with a hat or sunscreen, “even if
outdoors for no more than one minute”, Shumack says.
ULTRACEUTICALS
Protective Daily Moisturiser
SPF30+, $60 each. Protects
against both UVA and UVB
rays. Not too heavy; good
protection for everyday use.
CHECK-UP
If you are fair, your family has a history of skin cancer or
you’re often outdoors, you may need to have a check-up in
your 20s. After 40, you should have yearly check-ups. Any
suspicious spots herald a trip to the GP at any age.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
DR SEBAGH
Deep Exfoliating Mask, $155.
Evens skin tone appearance.
Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream,
$220, five doses. Wards off
environmental irritants.
Any bump, lump, ulcer or mark that does not go away or
changes shape or colour is suspect. The most common skin
cancer is basal cell carcinoma (BCC). Fifty per cent of Australians will find one of these lurking at some point in their
lives. BCCs occur mainly in fair-skinned people and sun- 
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MEN’S SKINCARE
light is often the cause. They should be treated as soon as
possible. Melanomas make up five per cent of skin-cancer
cases in Australia. Often manifesting as flat, dark-brown
or black, irregular marks that change appearance, melanomas grow quickly and are considerably more dangerous
than BCCs. They can be treated effectively by a GP if discovered early – why regular skin checks are important.
CLINIQUE
UV Response Body Cream SPF
30, $31. Fragrance- and oil-free
skin replenisher. Super City
Block SPF 30+, $36. Lightweight
protection for sensitive skin.
TURNING BACK THE CLOCK
Avoidance is better than restoration. The ravages of reckless
sun exposure over the years can be reversed only partially.
Topical agents such as glycolic peels, products with alpha
hydroxy acid, or stronger chemical peels and laser resurfacing can treat the signs of accumulated sun damage, but
they’re hardly miraculous. Shumack says these treatments
are no substitute for protection.
WHO IS AT RISK
Skin cancer is indiscriminate; everyone is at risk. However
those with fair skin and freckles need to be particularly
careful as their skin produces less melanin (the pigment
that protects skin from UV rays) than dark and oliveskinned people. Sun damage occurs throughout life, mostly during teenage years, but spots often won’t start to show
until you reach your 40s. “I just got one on my eyelid – and
I’m 39, a dermatologist and very careful”, says Dr Leslie
Baumann, author of The Skin Type Solution.
TIPS
Apply a SPF (sun protection factor) of 30+ sunscreen after
shaving every day. Place your sunscreen next to your toothbrush as a reminder to apply every morning. As we get
older our skin dries out, so moisturiser with a sunscreen is
a good option. Lotion and gel moisturisers without a heavy
residue are suitable for men unaccustomed to applying face
creams. Gels are also more suited to oily complexions.
ELLA BACHÉ GREAT 30+
Sports Block $34; Face Saver
$32; Lip Guard $10. Sports
Block, Lip Guard are waterresistant for two hours. Face
Saver has antioxidant complex.
WHAT YOU NEED
Buy a sunscreen that gives UVA and UVB coverage. For the
Australian climate use no less than SPF 30+ sunscreen. In
the sun reapply every hour, as the ingredients break down
with sun exposure. Be mindful that a T-shirt can provide
as little as SPF 5 – Baumann recommends sun-protective
clothing. Surfers, boaties and skiers need to combat reflected light, paying attention to areas that normally evade sun
exposure, such as under the chin. Lips need extra protection. Use a zinc-based sunscreen with titanium dioxide.
And always slather sunscreen generously.
RÉVIVE
Moisturizing Renewal Cream,
$237. This night cream with
epidermal growth factor,
developed to treat burn victims,
works to restore skin vitality.
The Cancer Council Australia www.cancer.org.au
154 QANTAS SEPTEMBER
DECEMBER 2005
2006
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