less traveled

four
trai
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LESS TRAVELED
story
&
photos: kate carter
The Stowe area is well known for its many trails that take hikers to the summits of Vermont’s
highest peaks. Stowe also has a good number of trails that lead to natural features such as waterfalls,
scenic vistas, and ponds. All of these trails offer such an invigorating outdoor experience, both
physically and spiritually, they tend to become over-crowded, thus diminishing the get-back-to-nature
experience hikers seek when they head for the hills.
Take the Sterling Pond Trail for example. Located on Route 108 in Smugglers’ Notch, this trail climbs
steeply for a mile and a half and ends at its pristine namesake. According to the Vermont Department
of Forests, Parks, and Recreation, in 2009 and 2010 the trail got an average of 1,130 visitors per
month from June to September, and that only counts the people who sign in at the trailhead. Similarly,
over a thousand hikers per month climb to the remarkable bald peak at the end of the Pinnacle Trail
in Stowe Hollow, also a steep ascent of over a mile and a half. It’s not uncommon to arrive at this
trailhead and find a school bus idling in the parking lot.
The good news? There is a handful of hiking trails in and around Stowe that do not get the heavy
traffic other trails seem to attract. So here are four footpaths where you can find a blissful hiking experience, and if you hit these trails on a weekday morning, chances are you won’t see another soul. l
Patty Hammer of Stowe and her canine companion take in the view at the rocky outcrop on Spruce Peak’s summit.
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1.
“Beautiful but tough.”
CLARA BOW TRAIL
Distance: 4 miles round trip
Time: 3 hours
Elevation gain: About 1,000 feet
Lewis B. Puffer, a UVM civil engineering professor and life-long
member of the Green Mountain Club, helped build this trail in the
early 1900s. He named it after the silent film actress Clara Bow,
because “both were beautiful but tough.”
The Clara Bow Trail penetrates the narrow and dramatic Nebraska
Notch, where boulders are the sizes of mansions and the sun’s rays
rarely find the ground. There’s even a cave to climb through, with the
aid of a sturdy ladder. This trail makes you feel like you’re at the end
of time. Or maybe the beginning of time, it’s so primordial compared
to the trail you take to get to it.
Finding the trail is easy. Drive to the end of Nebraska Valley Road and
park at the hikers’ parking lot to the right of the Lake Mansfield Trout
Club. Take the Lake Mansfield Trail, skirting the northern edge of the
lake. The trail departs from the lake and climbs steadily up Nebraska
Notch. This is a well-used path and you will most likely encounter others as you climb past waterfalls and a large beaver pond. It ends at
Taylor Lodge, a shelter on the Long Trail. From there take the Long
Trail north for one-half mile, climbing steeply and then descending
steeply to the junction of the Clara Bow Trail on the right.
In early June, painted trillium is everywhere along the Clara Bow trail.
Clara Bow is narrow, rough, and slow going. Eventually you will be
scrambling more than hiking, as you drop down to the infamous cave.
When you exit the other side, you are faced with views of the beaver
ponds you passed earlier. The trail brings you back to the Lake
Mansfield Trail near Taylor Lodge. Take the Lake Mansfield Trail
(left), retracing your steps back to the start.
The Whiteface Camp shelter provides the best
views of this hike. Phoebe and Brewster pose
with Madonna Mountain in the background.
Good dogs!
nice trek for those with less ambitious goals.
Once you turn right onto the Whiteface
Mountain Trail the path is steep, rugged, and
aerobically challenging for a mile, and is not
for the faint of heart!
Getting to the trailhead requires a drive
through Mud City’s maze of dirt roads, so it’s
advisable to keep a road map on hand. From
Morristown Corners north of Stowe, take
Walton Road, which quickly forks. Take Cole
Hill Road on the left. At two miles, turn right
on Mud City Road. At 4.4 miles, turn left on
Beaver Meadow Road. At 5.8 miles is the
Beaver Meadow Trail parking lot.
2.
“Aerobically challenging.”
WHITEFACE MOUNTAIN TRAIL
Distance: 6 miles round trip
Time: 4 hours
Elevation gain: About 1,500 feet
Of the four trails described here, this is the least traveled. The twomile approach on a woods road (blue blazes) is gradual and makes a
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From the parking lot, walk up the signed and
blue-blazed jeep road. After about a quarter
mile take the left jeep trail and walk around
the orange gate. Continue on this trail for
another mile and a half, passing the Chilcoot
Trail on the left. Turn right on the Whiteface Trail and climb steeply
for another mile to the Whiteface Camp shelter, with its great views
to the north of Madonna Mountain (Smugglers’ Notch Ski Resort).
The views don’t get any better than this, and the shelter makes a nice
place to take a break.
The shelter is situated at the junction of the Long Trail. If you want
to add more miles to your trek, take the Long Trail north for a half
mile to the summit of Sterling Mountain (3,713 feet, no views). Or,
take the Long Trail south, passing over Morse Mountain to the saddle
below Madonna Peak. Pick up the Chilcoot Trail that takes you down
Jeannette Segale of Huntington and Lauren Stagnitti of Morrisville
approach the much steeper and more challenging Whiteface Trail.
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3.
Nature at its finest.
Wildflowers of woodlands and meadows.
HASELTON TRAIL
Distance: 4.2 miles
Time: Three hours round trip
Elevation gain: 2,200 feet
Of all the trails that lead to the summit of Mt. Mansfield, the Haselton Trail is arguably
the easiest and least traveled. Its also offers the most diversity as it ascends steadily
through a forest with numerous stream crossings, a knife-edge ridge between two
drainages, and a ski-trail crossing. It exits onto the switchbacks of the Nose Dive ski trail,
which during summer months is covered with wildflowers.
The trailhead is near the base of the gondola at the ski resort’s main mountain. Park at the
Midway House parking lot and begin by walking under the gondola cables, keeping the
Midway House on your right. The trail is straight ahead, just to the left of the work road.
The trail climbs steadily, and after about 20 minutes you come to the knife-edge section
of trail that drops off steeply on both sides. After 20 more minutes of climbing you will
cross a narrow ski trail. In late June to early July, look for the leafy white orchid
(Habenaria dilatata) that grows on the edge of the ski trail, just to the left of where the
Haselton Trail re-enters the woods. After another 20 to 30 minutes of climbing the trail
ends at the Nose Dive ski trail, where the views are plentiful in all directions.
Continue up the ski trail switchbacks to the Toll Road and turn right for a final half-mile,
easy walk to the visitor’s center, the summit ridgeline, the Long Trail, and its numerous
side trails. For the return trip, consider staying on the Nose Dive ski trail all the way back
down. You’ll find a path worn down by other hikers, and it’s just plain fun to be out in the
open, with gorgeous views in front of you for the entire descent.
Closed gentian proliferates the Sterling trail in August.
hotel, shops, restaurants, Alpine slide, golf course and, of course, ski
lifts. In the summer, hikers make their way up Spruce Peak’s ski trails
to its rocky, nearly bald summit and breath-stopping views. As one hiker
exclaimed when reaching the summit, “I could hang out here all day!”
There is no doubt the views at the top are some of the best in
Vermont. However, the actual climb has its own unique feature—an
incredible abundance of wildflowers. From hawkweeds, clovers,
daisies, and trefoils at the base to bunchberries, three-toothed cinquefoils, fireweeds, and gentians at the top, the climb is a flower-lover’s
delight, May through September. A frequent climber could easily log
over 60 different species during one season.
4.
“I could hang out here all day.”
SPRUCE PEAK
Distance: 3 miles round trip
Time: 3 hours
Elevation gain: 2,000 feet
Spruce Peak is the gentler, friendlier mountain of Stowe Mountain
Resort’s two ski areas. At Spruce Peak’s base is the resort’s new village,
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Stowe’s Lynda DeWitt and Gemma on the Haselton Trail.
To get there, take Route 108 to Stowe Mountain Resort and turn right
at the main entrance for Spruce Peak. Just after the golf-course clubhouse turn right on Big Spruce Road. The paved road turns to gravel.
On the right is a large parking area for the Sensation Lift and ski
trails. Park there, and start hiking up the work road, also called
Sterling ski trail, keeping the Mt. Mansfield Ski and Snowboard
Clubhouse on your right. After about 10 minutes, stay right on the
Sterling trail and pass under the Sensation lift. Stay on the Sterling
trail all the way to the top.
Near the summit, keep the Spruce Summit Hut on your right and continue
up the work road. Shortly after the hut is a trail on the right marked with a
rock cairn. This trail leads to the Long Trail, Sterling Pond Trail, and to
Sterling Pond itself. To get to Spruce Peak’s summit, continue uphill on
the work road. Look for a shack and unmarked trail on the right. Take that
trail and immediately take another right-hand trail to the lookout. Have a
seat and a snack and take in the view. You’ve earned it! I
For more information about hiking in the Green Mountains, go to
greenmountainclub.org, or visit the club’s headquarters on Route 100
©Stowe Guide & Magazine, 2011
in Waterbury Center.
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