Rio Carnival - Tucan Travel

Transcription

Rio Carnival
A Guide to The World’s Greatest Party
By Lucy Bryson
Rio Carnival
A Guide to The World’s Greatest Party
By Lucy Bryson
Copyright © 2015 Tucan Travel
Published by Horizon Travel Press
PO Box 9531
Denver, CO 80209
http://horizontravelpress.com/
By Lucy Bryson, additional contributions by Rosanna Neophytou
Layout & design by Simon Ross-Gill
Rio Carnival: A Guide to The World’s Greatest Party
Contents
Welcome to Carnival ...................................................................................... Pages 6-7
Don’t miss ....................................................................................................... Pages 8-9
Carnival essentials .......................................................................................... Pages 10-11
Introduction to Rio ......................................................................................... Pages 12-15
The history of the world’s greatest party ..................................................... Pages 16-17
Samba School Parades
Carnival’s samba schools ............................................................................ Pages 20-23
How to get sambadrome tickets ................................................................Pages 24-27
How to strut your samba ........................................................................... Pages 28-29
Where to catch pre-Carnival rehearsals ..................................................... Pages 30-31
Blocos
Blocos - the people’s Carnival parties .........................................................Pages 34-35
Where to find to Carnival’s best blocos ..................................................... Pages 36-37
Pre and Post Carnival
What’s on ................................................................................................... Pages 40-41
Partying in Lapa ......................................................................................... Pages 42-45
Rio beyond Carnival ................................................................................... Pages 46-49
Brazil beyond Rio ....................................................................................... Pages 51-55
Resources
Rio neighbourhood guide .......................................................................... Pages 56-59
Carnival food & drink guide ....................................................................... Pages 60-61
Key phrases & vocab .................................................................................. Page 62
Carnival health & safety ............................................................................. Page 63
Rio contacts ................................................................................................ Pages 64-67
About Tucan Travel ........................................................................................ Pages 68-69
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of Misrule. For the following four days,
the party gloves are off, and normal rules
There are parties, there are mega-parties
and then there’s Rio Carnival. Imagine
do not apply. If you want to drink strong
cocktails at breakfast time, go for it. If you
millions of sun-dazzled partiers dancing in
the streets 24 hours a day, fueled by frozen want to kiss as many people as you can
caipirinhas; sequinned sambistas strutting
in a short space of time, this is the time
to try your luck. Dance for four days and
their stuff aboard fabulously flashy floats;
four nights straight wearing nothing but
colourful costumes and near-naked
swimwear and a novelty hat? Just load up
dancers; then take this mental image and
turn up the intensity to 11.
on coffee and you’re good to go. On the
The flurry of feathers and sequins of the
other hand, if you just want to take it easy
samba school parades are famous the
on the beach by day and take in a parade
at night, you’ll find plenty of opportunity
world over, but they are just a small part
to relax away from the blocos.
of a city-wide celebration that sees one of
Although Carnival lasts less than a week,
the world’s most beautiful destinations
the party spirit begins months earlier with
consumed by a hedonistic party spirit.
And as if the world-renowned samba
pre-Carnival street parties springing up as
parades weren’t enough, Carnival also sees soon as New Year is over, and continuing
hundreds of free street parties everywhere for several days after Lent begins with postCarnival celebrations.
from the beaches of the Copacabana and
Ipanema to the sticky streets of Centro.
If you want to take time out from the
The biggest of these blocos attract literally
party schedule, the beaches of Rio are the
millions of revelers, who wind their way
perfect place to recharge the batteries
between parties and parades. Nothing
through the streets clad in themed fancy
dress, following live bands that set the pace refreshes the body and soul quite like a
fresh coconut water sipped on the sands
with their frenetic samba drumming.
Officially, Carnival lasts for the four days
at Ipanema or Copacabana - and the city is
surrounded by glorious beach resorts that
leading up to Lent. On Ash Wednesday
are ideal for a bit of rest and recuperation
the keys of the city are ceremoniously
handed over to a tall, rotund local chosen
once Carnival has finally wound to a close.
to play the role of ‘King Momo’ - the Lord
Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
Welcome to Carnival
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Rio Carnival
An endless stream of parties means Rio
Carnival will have your head in a whirl and
your senses in a spin, and with so much
going on in the city it can be tough to
make (and stick to) a see-and-do plan. To
make the most of your trip it makes sense
to have a checklist of things you really
don’t want to miss among the madness.
Of course, first time visitors to the city
will also want to check out Rio’s other top
attractions as well as absorb the Carnival
atmosphere. Even aside from these crazy
weeks in February, Rio is home to many
bucket list-worthy sights, all of which justify
at least some time out from the party
schedule.
Here are some Carnival and Rio highlights
that no visitor should miss:
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Samba school parades
This is the Rio Carnival that the world
knows from their TV screens each year. The
city’s purpose-built Sambadrome stadium
is packed to its 90,000 capacity each night
of Carnival as hordes of samba-loving locals
and tourists flock to see Rio’s top samba
schools shimmy and shake in a bid for
Carnival glory.
And while tickets are not cheap, the
chance to witness these spectacular
parades makes the entrance price worth
every penny. The schools spend an entire
year - and serious amounts of money on creating ornate themed floats in the
hope that they blow the competition out
of the water: the attention to detail is
mindblowing.
The beautiful, barely-clad dancers; the
driving samba beats; the swirling skirts;
the quickfire costume changes and the
magnificent choreography have an
intensity that mere images can’t do justice
to, and the atmosphere is electric.
Blocos
While the samba school parades are
unfolding in the Sambadrome, the rest of
the city erupts in a series of blocos, free
neighbourhood street parties that are
open to all.
Although there are some fun blocos
that dance their way along the famed
beachfronts of Ipanema and Copacabana,
arguably the best bloco vibes can be found
downtown, where millions follow Cordao
do Bolo Preto on its lively way around
town, and in the artsy, bohemian hillside
neighborhood of Santa Teresa, where
the Carmelitas bloco is so popular that
it frequently changes its time at the last
minute to avoid overcrowding. Come in
your colourful costumes and Havaianas flip
flops and be prepared to dance for hours
straight.
Lapa nightlife
This recently renovated and cleaned-up
neighbourhood is home to new bars and
restaurants alongside the old favourites
making it the undisputed party heart of
the city.
Even outside of Carnival, Lapa is home to
an enormous year-round street party on
most Fridays and Saturdays. As you might
expect, things are taken up a notch further
every night throughout Carnival, attracting
thousands of locals and visitors to drink,
dance, and party.
The bars range from old-school botecos
to chic lounges and arty hipster hangouts,
but the kiosks that line the streets near the
Arcos da Lapa (the imposing, whitewashed
Lapa Aqueduct) are the best place to pick
up a caipifruta cocktail - sugar cane rum or
vodka with your choice of fruit, sugar and
ice.
Beaches
Rio is synonymous with beaches, and
while they are not the main focus of
Carnival action, Copacabana, Ipanema and
nearby Leme, Arpoador and Leblon are the
perfect places to catch some R&R.
The beaches are separated into postos
(lifeguard posts) and each posto has its
own vibe - for a youthful, flirty crowd
head to Posto 9, in Ipanema, while the gay
community hangs out by a giant rainbow
flag in front of Rua Farme do Amoeda, also
in Ipanema.
Posto 1 in Leme - Copacabana’s farthest
point from Ipanema - is a quieter
spot popular with families, Posto 6 in
Copacabana is a hotspot for standup paddle boarding, while Posto 7 in
Arpoador is popular with surfers.
Take a stroll along until you find your
ideal location and make use of the nearest
barraca - beach kiosk. These places rent out
sunloungers and parasols as well as selling
coconut water, beer and caipirinhas. As
each kiosk has its own number, they are
good reference points for meeting up with
friends on the beach.
spangly sequinned samba-queen costumes
to cheap, throwaway wigs, novelty glasses
and any kind of costume and accessory
you could think of. Take time out to grab a
kibe (meat patty) or esfiha (pastry triangle
stuffed with spiced meat or spinach and
cheese) from one of the many cafes here.
Sightseeing
Try to resist the temptation to do nothing
but sleep all day and party by night. Rio’s
iconic sights really merit the term ‘mustsee’. First on the checklist should be the
art deco Christ statue atop Corcovado
mountain, and the cable car ride up Sugar
Loaf mountain, while other top attractions
are the colourful Lapa Steps and bright
white Lapa Arches - both downtown historic, artsy Santa Teresa, and the vast
swathe of Atlantic rainforest that is Tijuca
National Park. (See pages 46-49: Rio
Beyond Carnival for more sightseeing tips.)
Rio Carnival
Don’t miss
Shopping for costumes in Saara
Forget the pricey malls of Rio’s upmarket
Zona Sul, the best place to look for Carnival
costumes is the maze of shopping streets
that make up the Saara (Portuguese for
Sahara - the name comes from the many
Middle Eastern settlers that opened
business here) commercial area.
The shops here sell everything from full-on
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The earlier you can book flights,
accommodation and tickets for Rio’s samba
school parades the better - don’t expect to
just rock up in Rio on the eve of Carnival
and find yourself a bed for the night.
If you want to get the best deals, it pays
to be prepared. Take note of the following
if you want to be Carnival-wise.
Bloco times and locations can change
from those advertised. The popular Santa
Teresa bloco Carmelitas is particularly
famous for making last minute changes in
order to keep crowd numbers from getting
out of hand. Keep an eye on social media
- especially Twitter - for time changes, or
arrive several hours ahead of the advertised
time and follow the crowds.
Accommodation
Visas
Accommodation prices soar over Carnival.
Hotel accommodation in Rio is expensive
year-round, and prices get stratospheric
during this mega-party. Don’t expect too
much for your money, either. With a few
top-end, extremely expensive exceptions,
hotels in Rio are basic by international
standards, and even hostels are pricey.
Lodgings on the beachfront are the most
eye-wateringly expensive, with Lapa and
Santa Teresa offering more bang for your
buck and proximity to the Carnival parties.
Booking ahead can get a better deal, and
apartment rentals tend to offer better
value, as well as greater independence.
Wherever you choose to stay, try to book
as soon as you have your dates fixed.
Alternatively book your trip through a tour
operator to take care of the hassle of hotel
searching and booking.
Check visa requirements for your country.
While visitors from most European
countries need only a valid passport and
return or onward ticket, those arriving
from the United States, Canada and
Australia need a visa. Arrange this a few
months before your trip to allow for any
processing delays.
Sambadrome tickets
Tickets for the best seats for the samba
parades sell out quickly, so book these
in advance, too. It makes sense to book
accommodation, flights and sambadrome
tickets a minimum of four months ahead of
your trip, preferably longer.
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Event schedules
Communication
Telecommunications in Rio are notoriously
complicated and expensive. Make use of
packages aimed at foreigners (the operator
Tim has a kiosk at the international
airport) which offers information in English
and ready-to-use sim cards for calls and
internet. Although still expensive, this can
take the hassle out of keeping in contact
during Carnival.
a fixed rate. (Ask them to switch on the
meter - ‘Taximetro’ - to make sure they
don’t overcharge).
Money
Most ATMs in Rio close at 10pm, so be
sure to keep enough money on you for
your bus or cab home. Also, note that
most foreign debit cards are processed as
credit cards in Brazil. So if somewhere says
it accepts ‘debit cards only,’ chances are
it won’t take a foreign debit card. Verify
before racking up a bill. If you are going
to need US dollars for any part of your
trip through South America, make sure
you bring the cash out with you as it is
impossible to withdraw USD in Brazil.
Safety
Take sensible precautions to avoid
pickpockets: don’t flash cameras, phones or
cash and keep money in a belt.
Write down the name and address of your
lodgings, together with important contact
numbers, and carry it with you when you
go out. That way if you lose your phone, or
your bearings in the flurry of Carnival you
won’t be totally stuck. Information kiosks,
police and shopkeepers will usually be
happy to help you.
See pages 56-67: Carnival Resources for
more detailed tips and advice.
Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
Carnival essentials
Airport taxis
When arriving at the international airport,
take registered cabs from the rank outside
rather than the kiosks inside the arrivals
lounge. Most cabs operate on a fixed price
basis according to your destination, and
those outside are significantly cheaper. To
save extra money, head to departures and
try to flag down a taxi that is dropping
somebody off, as these will not be tied to
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With such a dramatic location few cities
are as instantly recognisable as Rio de
Janeiro. So much so that it’s hard to
imagine how such a metropolis could come
to be created here in the first instance. The
city’s districts wind around curving bays,
drape over jutting mountains and extend
into the dense tropical forest. This unusual
topography makes Rio one of the most
iconic cities on the planet and once you’re
actually there on the city’s streets, the
views can be breathtaking.
A battle between modernity and nature
unfolds at every turn: chattering monkeys
dash along telegraph wires; flocks of bright
green parakeets swoop over the heads of
runners in the city’s parks; toucans squawk
from the tree tops and colourful fruits
smash onto the pavements before being
gobbled up by gamba (opossums).
Mother nature makes her presence
especially known during rainy season when
torrential tropical downpours can wreak
havoc, especially on the precariouslyconstructed favela communities that cling
to the hillsides.
A city that has no real winter - locals
complain it’s freezing when temperatures
drop below 25 degrees - Rio basks in the
type of tropical heat that calls for minimal
clothing, long lazy days on the beach and
long evenings shooting the breeze over
ice-cold beers or dangerously drinkable
caipirinhas. Cariocas, as natives of the city
are known, love to do all these things, and
at times it appears that nobody in the city
ever has to work.
Cariocas need little encouragement to
slip into party mode, and Carnival is the
party to end all parties. For four solid days
Rio shuts up shop and sheds what few
inhibitions it has, letting its hair down and
shaking its collective rump for a festa of
epic proportions.
That a city should occupy this site at all is
incredible, and Rio de Janeiro as we know
it today is the result of centuries of battles
not only between natives and explorers
and between opposing groups of settlers,
but also between those settlers and the
landscape itself. Hills and mountains have
been knocked down, the natural shoreline
pushed forward in places and back in
others, and even today construction
workers push their way through mountains
to pave the way for subway lines and bus
routes.
Rio is a seductive city, and fierce wars
have been fought for the right to claim it.
The city’s bay has drawn settlers from all
over the world, and today Rio is a rich mix
of cultures from indigenous peoples and
European settlers, as well as from Africa
- a result of the slave trade - and of those
who have arrived in their hordes from the
Middle East, China and Japan over the
centuries. Formerly the capital of Brazil,
Rio remains the tourist heartland of the
country. For many outsiders, Rio de Janeiro
is Brazil - seductive, tropical and beautiful,
but with a real untameable edge.
The city’s name - which translates as
River of January - in fact stems from
a geographical confusion. Arriving at
Guanabara Bay on January 1 1502, the
Portuguese explorer Gaspar de Lemo
mistook it for the mouth of a river, and
named the beautiful spot in its honour.
The area’s indigenous Tamoio people
were a source of much fascination for early
Portuguese settlers but the colonists were
harsh taskmasters, and when the French
arrived in 1555, pitching up on one of the
bay’s islands with the aim of using the area
as a base for trade in Brazilwood, they
quickly charmed the Tamoio into pushing
out the Portuguese. They met fierce
resistance, however, and 11 years later the
French were expelled and the Portuguese
claimed the land as their own, driving out
the natives and creating a citadel inland
from the bay.
Sugar plantations proved hugely successful
and African slaves were brought over in
great numbers. The city grew in stature
as it became a trade route for diamonds
and gold sourced from the rich mines of
what is now Minas Gerais state, and in
1763 Rio became Brazil’s capital, quickly
expanding up the mountainsides and into
the surrounding jungle.
The city fared less well in the late 18th
century, when a dramatic fall in revenue
from the mines and Central American
competition for the sugar markets caused
an economic crisis, but the coffee boom
that began a few years later brought
prosperity to Rio once again.
By 1808, with the Napoleonic wars
Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
Introduction to Rio de
Janeiro
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veiled references in music, film, poetry and
theatre, while a march upon Tiradentes
Palace in 1968 drew some 100,000
protestors.
The end of military rule was widely
celebrated, but the city’s crime problems
continued in the 1980s and 1990s, before
it became a little safer at the turn of
the millennium, a trend that has - from
a visitor’s perspective - continued, with
increased policing of touristic areas and
‘Pacifying Police Units’ wresting power
from the drug factions that previously
ruled Rio’s favelas. It is an uneasy peace,
however, and violent shootouts between
police and traffickers are unfortunately an
ongoing concern.
With Brazil sliding into recession, the
public have again taken to the streets in
vast numbers to oppose everything from
the cost of hosting the 2014 World Cup
to price hikes, poor pay and widespread
corruption. That the public has plenty to
rail against is clear - extreme wealth and
extreme poverty continue to live side by
side in Rio, and the sense of social injustice
is palpable.
Amid these struggles the city is now racing
to improve its infrastructure ahead of the
2016 Olympics, and while it remains to be
seen how the legacy will be felt in the city,
visitors should certainly benefit from muchneeded improvements to infrastructure
and transport. The changes will include
fast bus corridors, a light railway line and
an extended metro service, making it much
easier to get to key points around this
sprawling city, and maximising Carnival
party potential.
And yet despite, or perhaps because of, its
long and turbulent history, Rio’s renowned
carioca spirit endures, creating a city that is
truly unique in its scale, its epic scenery and
its infectious, electric atmosphere.
Welcome to Brazil, welcome to Rio.
Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
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putting pressure on the motherland, the
Portuguese Royal Family transferred their
entire court and government to Rio de
Janeiro, making the city the provisional
seat of the entire Kingdom and sowing the
seeds for Brazil’s coming independence
movements.
The new-found wealth brought a surge
in construction of grand buildings,
including many of contemporary Rio’s most
recognisable architectural landmarks.
Brazil’s declaration of independence in
1822 marked the beginning of what is seen
as Rio’s ‘Golden Age’. Coffee plantations
brought great wealth to the city, and
migrants arrived at the bay from Europe
and the East to ply their trades in this
most fashionable of cities. Taking its style
cues from France, Rio embraced grand
architecture, and chic society ladies could
be spotted taking tea on downtown’s Rua
do Ouvidor, the most fashionable street in
the city at the time.
The 1900s saw the population creep
towards two million, as industry boomed
and developers demolished entire hills and
changed the physical landscape of the city
forever. The first of what were to be many
skyscrapers was built, and tramlines began
to criss-cross the city.
The city drew huge numbers of migrants
from other parts of Brazil - in particular
from the arid north east of the country
where poor crop cultivation caused
crippling poverty, and many of those
arriving here in search of work found there
was not enough to go around. Swelled by
mass migration, Rio’s numbers of urban
poor grew at an explosive pace in the 20th
century, and makeshift favela communities
began to spread, with roughly-built
homes clinging precariously to steep
mountainsides and sprawling into the
jungle.
The mansion homes of Santa Teresa, in
the hills, were soon surrounded by favelas,
causing the wealthy to abandon their
breezy mountain homes and set up home
in high-rise accommodations along the
beachfront as crime levels soared.
Rio remained Brazil’s capital until the
inauguration of a brand new city, Brasilia,
in 1960. The transfer of political power to
this modernist settlement in the previously
uninhabited interior put the brakes on
Rio’s economic growth, but the flow of
poverty-stricken immigrants from the
north continued, leading to the high
crime and violence levels that sadly still
tarnish parts of the city today. At the same
time, concrete high rises emerged as the
city’s dominant form of architecture, and
many beautiful colonial buildings were
demolished in the rush to modernise the
city.
The military dictatorship that ruled Brazil
from 1964 to 1985 met much resistance
in Rio, with the city’s artistic community
opposing the regime through barely-
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Rio Carnival
Early Carnival Celebrations in Rio
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The history of the world’s
greatest party
Never afraid to flaunt its numerous
charms, Rio is at its flamboyant best during
Carnival. The city has taken the idea of
pre-Lent celebrations and samba-danced
away with it, turning its version of this
nominally-Christian festival into an eyepopping explosion of colourful costumes,
dazzling dance skills, non-stop partying
and celebrations that begin as soon as the
New Year’s fireworks have fizzled out, and
extend into Lent itself.
Carnival is celebrated across Brazil and
other majority Catholic countries, but
nowhere is it more rapturously received
than in Rio, which sees close to a million
partiers from across the world flock to
catch the spectacular shows at the purposebuilt Sambadrome stadium and to soak
up the atmosphere at the vibrant street
parties that take place across the city.
On the day before Carnival begins
in earnest, the keys of the city are
symbolically ‘handed over’ to the chaosbringing King Momo - played by a local
who fits the ‘tall and wide’ physical type.
With the Lord of Misrule officially in
charge of the city, locals throw their few
inhibitions to the wind and the city lets its
collective hair down in an anything-goes
festival of music and mayhem.
A moveable festa whose precise dates
depend on when Easter falls each year,
Carnival usually takes place in February,
right at the heart of Brazilian summer
- although it occasionally falls in March,
when temperatures can be a few degrees
less scorching.
In 2014, Rio’s modernist Sambadrome
marked its 30-year anniversary. Designed
by the late, legendary Brazilian architect
Oscar Niemeyer, it received a major
These Catholic celebrations made their
way to Brazil with the arrival of the
Portuguese, with the first celebrations
taking place in the 1720s in the mudsoaked form of Entrudos - street parties in
which revelers would liberally douse each
other in water, mud and even food.
Authorities routinely clamped down
on the festivities, which frequently
disintegrated into brawls and all-out riots,
and the celebrations gradually moved
towards more civilised masquerade balls
and elaborate horse-drawn floats.
Carnival began to take on a unique
and distinctly Brazilian form with the
emergence of the Carnival tradition Zé
Pereira, said to have been introduced in
the mid-19th century by a Portuguese
shoemaker named José (Zé) Nogueira
de Azevedo. These parades saw hordes
of people take to the streets on Carnival
Monday to march, parade and drum their
way around the city, paving the way for
today’s blocos.
These street parties grew in size and
scale each year, and the parades began to
take on a more structured form. The first
official Carnival parade in Rio took place
in 1935 at downtown’s Praça Onze, which
was to become the focal point of the city’s
celebrations for some 30 years, before
moving to the legendary Sambadrome at
Marquis de Sapucaí.
During the early 20th century samba
schools were formed mainly in the city’s
impoverished favela communities, and
soon the neighbourhoods used these
schools to start competing with each other
for Carnival glory.
Until the mid 1980s, bleachers were built
up each year along the busy Avenida
Presidente Vargas in preparation for
the parades, and taken down after Ash
Wednesday. This expensive and laborintensive exercise began to buckle under
the strains of increasingly large Carnival
crowds, with authorities deciding that the
parades should have their own dedicated
space.
The task of designing the new space fell
to none other than legendary modernist
Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, and the
then vice governor of Rio de Janeiro Darcy
Ribeiro suggested that it should be built at
Marquis de Sapucaí, close to the parties’
original home near Praça Onze.
With its original capacity for 70,000
spectators; the Sambadrome has been
extended and extensively refurbished as
the city of samba gears up to host the 2016
summer Olympics, and today has capacity
for up to 90,000, in bleachers and private
boxes.
Rio Carnival
overhaul ahead of the 2014 FIFA World
Cup.
As one of the liveliest cities in the world,
it’s no surprise that pre-Lent traditions in
Rio differ from those of other Christian
countries such as modest pancake eating
and restrained masked balls. However Rio
Carnival’s roots can actually be traced back
to the ancient Greek, Roman and pagan
celebrations of Spring’s arrival where
similar group festivities occurred, and
people celebrated on a mass scale.
The Catholic church continued the theme
of pre-spring festivals, albeit in a more
restrained fashion, with celebrations held
in the days leading up to Ash Wednesday,
the beginning of fasting for lent.
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The fabulously flamboyant parades
that take place at Rio’s purpose-built
Sambadrome stadium are the focal point
of international attention during Carnival,
and the sheer spectacle really has to be
seen to be believed.
Rio’s samba schools pour their hearts
and souls into preparing for their moment
in the spotlight, and each school spends
the best part of a year working on their
presentation and performance.
You may have seen the photos and the
TV images, but nothing can prepare you
for the sensory explosion that you are
about to witness.
Close to 90,000 spectators pack into the
stadium each night during Carnival, while
millions across the world see the images
on TV. And whether you’re partying with
the lively local crowds in the cheap seats
or living it up in a luxury box, you’re set
for an experience that will stay with you
forever.
The Sambodromo is the beating heart of
Rio Carnival, and a place where dreams
come true for dancers and spectators
alike. Prepare to have your senses dazzled
and your mind blown!
Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
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Samba
School
Parades
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Rio de Janeiro’s top samba schools have
evolved over the decades from small
neighbourhood music and dance troupes
to become household names across Brazil,
and rivalries between the schools are every
bit as fierce as those between rival Rio
soccer teams.
While the ‘access group’ schools samba
their hearts out in a bid to win a place in
the ‘special group’ (the top rung of the
samba ladder) by impressing the judges
in the Carnival parades, those already at
the top of their game battle to take home
the title of Carnival Champions, and while
there’s no cash prize, the bragging rights
are priceless.
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Each of the major schools has its own
flag, colours, and leagues of fanatical
supporters, including many Brazilian
celebrities. From the ranks of these famous
faces, a particularly glamorous individual is
often chosen to lead each school’s parades
at the Sambadrome.
The major schools’ roots are in the
impoverished suburbs of Rio, and their
well-attended rehearsals are still held
in their traditional neighbourhoods.
These rehearsals are open to the public,
essentially Carnival warm-up parties held in
the months leading up to Carnival. Take a
taxi or go with a group, and be prepared
to try a few dance moves.
If you don’t know your Beija Flor from
your Salgueiro, here’s the low-down on
Beija-Flor
Grande Rio
Established in 1948, the 2015 champions
have an immense local following. The name
means ‘humming bird’, and the school’s
flag incorporates an image of the bird.
Beija-Flor’s colours are blue and white and
the rehearsal school is based in Nilopolis,
on the outskirts of the city.
Beija-Flor’s creativity and determination
has helped the school dominate the
Carnival, winning 11 times in recent years.
The school is known for its outlandish
costumes and often controversial themes,
with the latest exploring links between
Brazil and Equatorial Guinea. Despite
rumours that the spectacle was largely
funded by the African nation in exchange
for a display celebrating the country, the
effort won the title for the school.
Beija-Flor’s rehearsals are held on
Thursday evenings in the months leading
up to Carnival, at 9pm at Pracinha Wallace
Paes Leme 1025 - Nilópolis. Most taxis will
take visitors there, and some tour groups
will organise group trips.
One of the newest schools, Grande Rio
was established in 1988 and already ranks
among the best in the city. Although it has
yet to take home the winner’s title, the
school has come second no fewer than 10
times.
The school’s colours are red, green and
white and their themes tend to focus
around Brazilian myth and folklore.
Based in an area of Rio known as Caxias,
it has support from a number of celebrities
and politicians who also tend to parade
with the school. They also value the
importance of art and creativity – in 2002
they founded the Children of Grande Rio, a
scheme that provides children with cultural
and artistic opportunities.
Their neighbourhood rehearsals run on
Tuesdays from 9pm at Rua Wallace Soares,
5 e 6 - Centro - Duque de Caxias.
Salgueiro
Salgueiro Samba School has its base
slightly closer to the city centre than many
of its rivals, and the troupe, which was
established in 1953, counts many celebrities
and VIPs among its ranks.
Winners of the 2009 Carnival with a
spectacle based around the pertinent
theme of ‘Drums’, the school is renowned
for incorporating fire into its parades.
Being close to the centre of Rio, Salgueiro
is known for being one of the safest to
attend for rehearsals, which are at Rua Silva
Unidos de Tijuca
Teles 104 - Tijuca from 8pm on Wednesdays
and 10pm on Saturdays.
Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
Carnival’s samba schools
some of Rio’s biggest and best-known
samba schools.
Established in 1931 and with a yellow
and blue colour scheme, Unidos de Tijuca
is one of the oldest samba schools in Rio.
Known for its creative performances, the
school took the Carnival title in 2012, with
a performance that paid tribute to the late
singer and composer Louis Gonzaga, the
"king of Baiao", a popular music style from
Brazil's northeast.
They also won in 2010 with their theme
‘It’s secret’ where a magician led the
females into changing outfits 6 or 7 times
while parading. It also featured popular
characters such as Batman and Superman.
Their rehearsal nights are on Fridays
and Saturdays from 10pm at Clube dos
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Imperatriz Leopoldinens
Based in the northern Rio neighbourhood
of Ramos, Imperatriz’s flag is green, white
and gold, and the school is held in high
regard for its elegant parades.
Founded in 1960, the school has won the
competition several times, mainly in the
1990s and at the turn of the millennium.
Neighbourhood rehearsals are based at
Rua Professor Lacê 235 – Ramos, from 8pm
on Sundays.
Rio Carnival
Established in 1928, Mangueira is the
oldest Samba School in Rio. The school has
an immense following and its green and
pink colours are instantly recognisable to
Carnival followers.
After winning the first ever samba parade
held at the Sambadrome, Mangueira has
consistently ranked among the top schools
ever since. The school was notably the
first to allow women percussionists, and
in 2015 its parade included many tributes
to women and the importance of females
throughout history.
Their neighbourhood rehearsals are on
Saturdays from 10pm at Rua Visconde de
Rio Carnival
Mangueira
Niterói 1072 - Mangueira. It is considered
one of the safest schools to attend with
lots of security and a number of tourists.
Portuários – Av. Francisco Bicalho.
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Whether you want to lord it in a luxury
box or party with the crowds, it pays to
plan in advance if you want to bag your
Carnival parade tickets at the best possible
prices.
Although touts often hawk tickets
outside the stadium on the day of parades
themselves, you’re at risk of buying fake
or stolen tickets, so it is best to go through
official channels and to buy as soon as you
have your dates fixed.
There are four main types of seating
available for Carnival samba school
parades, and each one offers a unique
experience.
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There are front boxes (frisas), grandstands
(arquibandas), luxury seats (camarotes)
and allocated chairs (cadeiras). Arrive early
if you don’t have an allocated seat. If you
have a grandstand ticket with no assigned
seating you can sit where you wish although you may find yourself on your
feet for much of the proceedings.
Tickets to the ‘premier league’ parades
on Sunday and Monday are generally both
busier and more expensive than other
nights, when ‘first division/access league’
schools parade in the hope of being
promoted to the top league.
After the winners in each section are
announced, the top schools parade again
on the Saturday after Carnival closes,
this time accompanied by a spectacular
Ticket prices
Ticket prices vary enormously according
to where you want to sit and which night
you want to attend. In each sector, prices
vary according to view and proximity to the
parades.
Grandstand prices start at around US$90
for the Friday and Saturday night entry
league shows, rising to around US$170 for
the Sunday and Monday night parades.
An individual ticket in a frisa, or small
private box with space for up to six people,
costs upwards of US$180 for the access
group parades, and upwards of US$600 for
the top flight schools.
Special boxes, which host up to 12 people
in a covered area with comfortable seating
and good views, cost upwards of US$250
per person for access group parades, rising
to nearly US$1,000 for the Sunday and
Monday nights.
To experience Carnival like a true VIP,
luxury suites are at the top end of the price
scale. For between US$590 and US$2,500
per person, these suites with balconies
have space for between 18 and 108 people
and offer a buffet, open bar, waiter service,
and transport from your hotel.
For those who want to mingle with Rio’s
rich and famous, upwards of US$1,250
will buy access to a VIP lounge open for
the Sunday and Monday nights and the
winners’ parade. With capacity for up to
400 revelers, it is a covered space with an
open bar, buffet, waiter service, and even
DJs and a dance floor for those who feel
inspired to showcase a few samba moves.
Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
How to get Sambadrome
parade tickets
fireworks display. This winners’ parade
lacks the tension of the competition
performances, but as they are around a
third cheaper than those for the Sunday
and Monday nights they can be a costeffective way of seeing the top flight
schools in all their glitzy glory.
When choosing your ticket type, bear
in mind that the parades go on all night,
and comfort may become increasingly
important as the night wears on. Private
boxes may be more expensive, but are
worth the money for families and groups
of friends who want a little elbow room as
they watch the show.
Also bear in mind that the Brazilian
summer is also rainy season. It can - and
frequently does - rain on the parade, so
revelers who don’t want to risk a soaking
might want to think about a covered area.
Otherwise, just make like the locals and
bring a lightweight plastic rain cover (there
will be vendors outside selling these on
rainy days).
Those with deep pockets can splash out
on luxury boxes, which include food and
drink service and even transport, while
those who want to be more immersed
in the party will find the most electric
atmosphere in the grandstand seats.
Booking tickets
There are various companies and tour
groups offering tickets to the parades,
and it makes sense to buy before you
come to Brazil. Buying locally can be more
expensive, and also more complicated as
many online payments in Brazil can only be
made with a CPF (social security) number.
For tickets only, the best place to buy is via
the official site, while tour companies also
offer Carnival packages which can be more
cost effective as well as taking the hassle
out of planning your trip.
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Rio Carnival
Sector 1- 8
This is where the schools enter, and these
areas offer great views of the parade.
Sectors seven and eight are close to the
judges’ seating area, so the performers will
be dancing to the very best of their ability.
Seats are only numbered in the front boxes
so you need to be early to bag the best
seats.
Sector 9 – the tourist section
Sector 12 and 13 – where it all comes to a
climax
Sector nine tickets are assigned, so you
get to hold your own space marked on
the cement. Most tickets to Sector 9 are
allocated to tourists so you won't find
much of a carioca (local) crowd settling in
here. The sector has English and Spanishspeaking guides, and a less hectic vibe than
other sections of the grandstands.
Sector 12 and 13 are Sambadrome sectors
located at the very end of the runway.
They are considered to offer the best value
and often the best atmosphere at the
Sambadrome. The dancers, as they have
been judged by this point, often give a little
more showmanship to their performance
which creates extra amusement. The
sectors are very large and include a great
mix of locals as well as tourists so be
mindful that they can get can get very
crowded. This sector is popular with tour
groups.
Sector 10 – best for the open boxes
Offering affordable tickets at grandstands
and bleachers, the sector 10 is very popular
among native residents of Rio de Janeiro
and small groups of locals and Carnival
lovers.
Sector 11 – best view of the drummers
Tickets for sector 11 are very popular and
sell out quickly. Facing Sector 10, Sector
11 is located very close to the drummers.
The schools at this point are giving their
performance one last push before the
end of the competition. From this block,
you get a very nice view of the parade as
the schools march towards the end of the
samba runway. Seats are not assigned.
Some ticket providers and tour companies
offer upgrades to this section.
Rio Carnival
Sambadrome seating
Sambadrome Seating
Grandstands: Best value, great view
Luxury Suite: VIP Service
Front box: best tickets, more space
Allocated Stairs: Your seat for less
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Parade Starts
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Sambadrome Parade Runway
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Stand
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the Sunday and Monday periods are
significantly more expensive than costumes
Some samba schools allow the public to be for the ‘access group’ parades, but prices
part of their Sambadrome performances
won’t be confirmed until tickets go on
- all you need is one of their costumes
sale in November. For the truly brave who
and winning confidence. Try to learn
really know their samba moves and who
the school’s official samba song for that
are prepared to pay to flaunt them in front
year. The ‘anthem’ will be rehearsed
of the world’s press, there is an option to
and played at street parties in the three
purchase costumes for performing on the
months leading up to Carnival so you will
float. These don’t come cheap and you
have plenty of opportunity to familiarise
will be expected to know the song of the
yourself.
school as the floats will be marked by the
To join your chosen samba school you
super-attentive judges.
should hire or buy the school’s costume
Although there is no obligation to attend
before mid January. Your costume will be
rehearsals before the parade, it’s wise to
made to the measurements you supply,
go along to at least one run-through if your
and can be bought from the Englishschedule permits. On the night itself, you
language site as well as some schools’
should turn up wearing your costume at
websites.
least two hours before the parade starts
It may come as a blessed relief or perhaps
and meet the president of your wing.
a disappointment to learn that your outfit
Everyone meets at Avenida Presidente
is unlikely to be one of the skimpy, sparkly
Vargas near sector one and it won’t be
bikini-style affairs and is more likely to be
hard to find your school - just spot the
a full costume in the school’s colours or
other 100 people wearing the same
linked to their theme for that year. Most
costume as yourself!
costumes are unisex and may involve
The president of the wing will make
headdresses and stiff wired shoulder pads,
sure that your costume is correct and will
Be prepared to sweat, as it can be hot
help set the pace for the entire parade.
under all those feathers and shiny fabric.
Remember to go with the flow: you are
Once you’ve got your costume you’re
moving as a group so as long as you keep
ready to take part, although it’s unlikely
up and join in with the enthusiasm you
that you’ll be hoisted up high on the
won’t let the side down.
Carnival floats. Instead, you will likely be
Just remember when you are picking a
dancing in one of the school’s ‘wings’ along costume, try to make sure it’s easy to bring
with around 100 others dressed similarly to back home with you!
yourself. And relax, the eyes of the world
Important: remember that if you want to
may be trained on you, but you’ll be just
watch the rest of the parades once your
one of an enormous crowd (although don’t school has finished, you will still need a
let that stop you shining your brightest
Sambadrome ticket.
smile and dancing your best steps - who
knows who may catch you on film?)
Costumes for the top tier schools on
Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
How to strut your samba
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No sooner is one Carnival over than Rio’s
samba schools start preparing for the
next year’s event. Themes are decided
upon, plans are drawn up and the schools
begin to prepare their bids for Carnival
glory. Towards the end of the year they
open up their rehearsal rooms for public
parties, which are usually held on weekend
evenings and are family-friendly affairs
involving much singing and dancing.
Tickets to the rehearsals rarely exceed
US$15, and although the rehearsal spaces
are generally located far from Rio’s tourist
heartland, there are several tour companies
offering excursions with transport and
entrance included.
In December and January the rehearsal
schedule steps up a notch with technical
rehearsals at the Sambadrome itself, which
are free to attend and, while the dancers
will not be in full costume, this is a great
way to get an advance taste of the parades
without the immense crowds and the ticket
prices.
Each of the top tier schools are allowed
two technical rehearsals and parade for
around 80 minutes. The second of the
rehearsals sees the lighting and sound put
into place, and is as close to the ‘real thing’
as you could hope to get.
Away from the Sambadrome, the
larger of the city’s many blocos also
hold run-throughs in the weeks leading
up to Carnival. Usually held at a given
neighborhood destination on Saturday
nights from January onwards, these free
street parties are best seen as static ‘miniblocos’, where vast crowds gather to
dance, drink and mingle.
The first couple of rehearsals will see the
bloco’s band run through a number of
tunes that are in the running to be that
year’s chosen anthem, and the partying
public will decide which one makes the
grade. The next few weeks focus on
repeating the song until the beat and lyrics
are truly ingrained - lyric sheets are handed
out to make things easier.
Unlike the samba schools, the blocos
don’t have one set rehearsal space,
and these run-throughs will be held
in an outdoor location that may vary
year on year (famously, Santa Teresa’s
popular Carmelitas bloco had to move its
rehearsals down the hill to Centro as the
neighbourhood’s residents’ association
complained about the noise and crowds).
Again, schedules can be found online as
Carnival approaches.
Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
Where to catch pre-Carnival
rehearsals
Latest Schedules
Rehearsal schedules can be found in the
local press and online - the following
sites have useful information in English:
• Brazilcarnival.com
• Rio-Carnival.net
• Brazilbookers.com
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Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
Blocos
Blocos
Blocos
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Blocos
When they’re not marveling at the
spectacle in the Sambadrome, locals and
tourists alike flock to Rio’s buzzing Carnival
street parties.
The blocos, as they are known, may lack
the international fame of the samba school
parades, but they have been an integral
part of Rio’s Carnival celebrations since the
1800s. And if you want to party with the
locals, just head to these informal, free and
fun gatherings.
With the official parades becoming too
formal and organised for many locals’
tastes, the blocos - which began life as
small neighbourhood parades showcasing
European dance styles - have been growing
in popularity in recent years, and there are
now some 500 of them taking place across
the city. Each bloco has its own theme
- there are animal-themed blocos, polkadot blocos, even Beatles blocos and nunthemed blocos - and a band which plays
their chosen style of music (usually, but not
always, samba) as they lead the crowds,
Pied Piper-fashion, around the streets of
their neighborhood. The largest blocos
attract over a million revellers, who turn
the hot city streets into a noisy, colourful
celebration of Rio’s Carnival spirit.
There is no charge to attend and,
while each bloco has its own fancy dress
theme, these are not enforced. Loose
interpretations of the theme are fine, and
the heat means that lightweight accessories
are better than full, heavy costumes. The
blocos have an official timetable with many
beginning almost at daybreak, and each
one usually lasting for several hours.
Taking part is easy. Simply find a bloco
that interests you and join the party! Bring
your sense of fun, some dancing shoes and
a warm smile - you’ll be finding your inner
carioca in no time..
It’s possible to party right across the
city following the blocos, with some of
the biggest being the hugely popular
Cordao da Bola Preta, in Centro; Banda da
Ipanema; Suvaco do Cristo (literally Christ’s
Armpit, thanks to the location beneath the
outstretched arm of the Christ statue) in
Jardim Botanico, and Carmelitas in Santa
Teresa.
With parties taking place across the city at
every hour of the day, you’ll need to decide
which ones you want to attend and, if you
want to party at different locations, make
use of the pre-paid Metro tickets which can
be bought and re-charged at every station,
as they’ll save you a lot of queuing time.
Wear comfy dancing shoes, and be
prepared to party for whole days - and
nights - straight.
Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
Blocos
Blocos - the people’s
Carnival parties
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Rio Carnival
Blocos
Banda de Ipanema - Ipanema
One of the largest and oldest blocos in
Rio, they hold 3 different parties, the first
two happening on the Saturdays before
Carnival. They were one of the first groups
to bring parties to streets of Rio back in
1965. Curious residents heard the sounds
of the band the group of friends had hired
and marched along!
Now they attract up to 30,000 people,
welcome anyone and everyone and have
also been listed as part of Rio’s cultural
heritage. Families bring children but it is
also often very popular with the gay scene
and you will see a welcoming drag queen
or two! It’s a great way to join in the fun,
wear a costume and really get into the
Carnival spirit.
Cordão da Bola Preta - Parade from
Avenida Rio Branco to Cinelandia
(Downtown)
This is the biggest bloco happening on
the Saturday of Carnival. Founded over
95 years ago it is Rio’s oldest and largest
bloco, attracting 2.3 million people back
in 2011 and extremely popular with all
groups, locals and tourists alike. Their
official uniform is black polka dots on
white. This bloco also host a Carnival Ball
at Rio Scala on Friday of Carnival which is
one of the most popular balls to attend.
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Simpatia É Quase Amor - Ipanema
Barbas - Botafogo
With a reputation built on fun and legend,
this bloco has attracted crowds since it
formed in 1990. The story behind the
bloco tells of a Carmelita nun who jumped
the wall of the Santa Teresa convent
to participate in Carnival celebrations.
Whether it is true or not is questionable
but revellers dress up as nuns all the same.
The intimate winding streets of Santa
Teresa make it a perfect route for building
up energy during the parade on the Friday
afternoon of Carnival.
The second largest bloco, like Banda de
Ipanema this bloco starts its celebrations a
week before Carnival on the Saturday. They
formed in 1985 with their chosen colours
of purple and yellow based on ENGOV - a
hangover remedy. It often attracts many
young revellers and their name which is
translated to “Friendliness is almost love”
make it a popular choice for those who
want to meet other people and join in the
celebrations.
If you want to cool down in the Rio heat
this is the bloco for you due to the huge
water truck that sprays revellers down as
they walk. It is also family friendly, with
an accompanying Volkswagen RV taking
children along. The parade occurs on
the Carnival Saturday afternoon in the
Botafogo region of Rio. The one tip we
have here is to carry your belongings in a
waterproof bag!
Monobloco - Copacabana
This popular bloco had to move in order
to accommodate the number of people
that wanted to join in. It attracts a young
crowd due to the wide mix of music that is
played including coco, ciranda, samba rock
and funk. It was originally formed by a rock
band in 2000 called Pedro Luis e A Parede
and they have travelled internationally
with great success. Their parade is usually
the Sunday after Carnival to celebrate the
completion of Carnival.
Suvaco do Cristo - Jardim Botanico
Translated literally to “Christ’s Armpit”
this bloco parades in the district of the
botanical gardens - right under the statue
of Christ the Redeemer. It is a great way
to see the sights of Rio while soaking
up traditional Carnival atmosphere. It is
slightly more low key than some of the
other Blocos but still attracts a mix of lively
and fashionable locals as well as women
dressed in the traditional Bahia costumes of
blue, silver and green.
Cordão do Boitatá - Centro
Blocos
Although an estimated 400 blocos are
expected for Carnival 2016, the following
includes some of the biggest and most
famous, and where to find them.
Bloco das Carmelitas - Santa Teresa
This bloco is a family affair which is perfect
for children and adults alike. They draw
their parade from Brazilian folk tradition
and the name comes from a mythological
fire snake. People are encouraged to come
in costume on their parade day which
is generally the Sunday of Carnival. It is
considered more peaceful and low key than
some of the other blocos but nevertheless
bursting with energy and fun.
Blocão - Copacabana
Céu na Terra - Saint Teresa
A play on words for street party and dog
this is the perfect celebration for animal
lovers. Revellers bring their dogs (and
sometimes the odd cat!) to the street
festivities that have occurred for the last
12 years. Both animals and humans wear
costumes and socialise with equally friendly
pet owners. In the past this has run on the
Saturday before Carnival but it is worth
checking with your hotel nearer the time.
Wake up early for this bloco on Carnival
Saturday. Starting at 6am in the winding
streets of Saint Teresa it follows the
tram line, and it is a great way to kick
off your street partying for the day. The
name means “Heaven and Earth”, and
everyone is encouraged to wear costumes
. Located on the hills in one of Rio’s oldest
neighbourhoods just follow the parade
back down to the bottom!
Rio Carnival
Where to find Carnival’s
best blocos
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Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
Pre and Post
Carnival
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Carnival Balls
Along with the parades and street parties,
Rio’s Carnival balls are an integral part
of the city’s festivities. Prices range from
accessible to strictly for VIPs, and the
balls are generally very dressy affairs with
A-listers arriving at the more exclusive
events in full red-carpet level finery.
Some balls have a theme, and the general
standard of costumes tends to be a good
deal higher than the novelty hats and grass
skirts of the street parties. Many take place
in Rio’s Zona Sul - the scenic south zone
of the city, where the majority of Carnival
visitors will be based.
Top balls include the Scala Ball, at one
of the city’s most established nightspots,
and the super-glamorous Magic Ball at
Copacabana Palace Hotel (more below).
The Gay Ball, held on the last night of
Carnival, is a fabulously camp and flashy
affair that attracts colorful characters from
the gay scene as well as straight Carnival
goers who flock here to marvel at the
creative and often outrageous costumes.
Tickets for the balls begin at around
US$30 and soar up to over US$350, some
including food and drinks in the ticket
price. Tickets range from simple standing
tickets to VIP (which generally include food
and drink) as well as table seats. You can
find standard tickets for most events at the
The Magic Ball
One of the grandest balls during Carnival
period is the Magic Ball. This is held at
the luxurious grande dame Copacabana
Palace Hotel and is attended by a superchic crowd. Tickets are not cheap - starting
at around US$1000 and rocketing up from
there - but those lucky enough to have
one will find themselves rubbing shoulders
with Rio’s rich and beautiful elite, as well
as visiting celebrities. Past attendees have
included Brigitte Bardot, Paris Hilton and
Gerard Butler. Be prepared to book early if
you intend to bag a ticket to this glittering
event.
Other city events
Aside from the balls there are also a
number of other events occurring around
Rio before and during Carnival.
Samba Land - Praça Onze, Centro
(downtown)
the Carnival spirit. Cordao de Bola Preta,
the biggest and oldest of Rio’s Carnival
blocos, holds particularly lively pre-Carnival
street parties. Local press and social media
publish timetables several weeks before
Carnival begins.
Lapa Street Party
For most of the year Lapa’s street party
is held on Friday and Saturday nights, but
during Carnival the festivities roll every
night. Live bands and innumerable street
stands attract hundreds of thousands of
revellers who pack the streets around the
famous Arcos da Lapa.
See more on pages 42-45: Partying in Lapa
Rio’s party calendar is packed during
Carnival season, with glamorous balls and
hectic street parties adding extra oomph to
the city’s already-buzzing scene. And while
there’s a charge for some events, others
are completely free and a great way to get
down with the locals.
door on the night – so there’s no excuse
not to boogie the night away in the spirit
of Carnival!
Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
What's on
Samba Land (Terreirão do Sambo) is an
open air space near the Sambadrome
which is set up before Carnival and is
present through all the nights of Carnival.
Food and drink is sold, live bands play and
it is a great way to soak up the atmosphere
of Carnival. Tickets are available on the
door and cost around US$10.
Bloco warm-ups
Rio’s bloco parties begin with warm ups in
the weeks preceding Carnival, and continue
until the following weekend. Each has its
own fancy dress theme, and although this
not mandatory it’s a fun way to get into
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Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
Partying in Lapa
Forget the chic lounges of Leblon and
the restrained bohemia of Ipanema. If you
want to find Rio de Janeiro’s real hardpartying edge, you’ll need to head to Lapa.
This rough-around-the-edges downtown
neighborhood has gone through a
complete rehabilitation into a party
hotspot in just a few years, with the area
around ‘Lapa Arches’ (the 18th century
Carioca Aqueduct) packed with revellers
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almost every Friday and Saturday night,
year round. Over the Rio Carnival weekend,
these festivities are ratcheted up into a
week-long street party.
Some of the oldest buildings in the city
can be found in Lapa and over the years,
many of them were neglected, crumbling
under the hot and humid Brazilian sun. In
the past, Lapa has long been renowned
for its malandros - charming and attractive
conmen - and for its ladies of the night.
Today, the neighbourhood has cleaned
up and at night, there is a new buzz from
many of the newly-opened and trendy bars
lining Lapa’s streets pulsing out the sounds
of samba, hip hop or the down and dirty
electronic sounds of favela funk.
With this regenerated image, the street
parties came and very quickly exploded
in popularity for locals and visitors alike.
Starting with a few makeshift stands in
2004, today, they attract a more freshfaced crowd and Lapa is now the number
one party destination in Rio de Janeiro. It
is the setting for all-night parties before,
during and immediately after Carnival, and
no self-respecting partier should miss out
on the Lapa experience.
Hundreds of thousands of revellers from
across the city - and across the world gather to load up on fruit cocktails from
the many street stalls, dance to live drum
performances and just rub shoulders
with the other partiers. A giant stage is
erected before Carnival and stays up for
the duration of the festivities, with bands
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were once the lifeblood of Lapa’s drinking
scene are now outnumbered by trendy
bars and hipster hangouts.
But there are still some traditional samba
halls here, among the best of which
are Clube dos Democraticus, held in a
wonderful art deco building, and Carioca
da Gema, where you can eat in the pizzeria
downstairs before trying out a few samba
moves or just watch the fleet-footed locals
show you how it’s done.
While most clubs charge an entrada
(entrance fee), many of the bars are free
to enter, and it can be fun to wander
around the bar-lined Rua do Lavradio - one
of the oldest streets in the city - to decide
where you want to stop for a drink. Some
clubs are free before midnight, but many
revellers simply wander from drink stall to
drink stall, making new friends along the
way.
There’s a lively hostel scene in Lapa, and
lodgings here are much cheaper than those
close to the beach. Partiers who make their
base here will also be close to much of the
Carnival street party action, as well as the
Sambadrome itself. Don’t choose a Lapa
hostel if you want a good night’s sleep
though - the parties are noisy and go on all
night.
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Rio Carnival
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playing everything from rock to hip hop
and - of course - samba.
It’s widely known as an ‘anything goes’
neighborhood and is popular with
singletons, looking to have a Carnival fling.
By the same token, foreign visitors are still
something of a novelty for many locals, so
prepare to be the focus of attention (this
goes for both sexes). As flattering as they
may seem, be assured that those chat-up
lines you’re hearing are probably very well
used.
If you’re not interested, make yourself
clear and don’t engage in conversation.
Females in particular may find that
friendliness is seen as flirtation. If you feel
uncomfortable, make your exit politely but
firmly.
The area beneath the towering
whitewashed arches is packed with
street sellers and partiers, and the streets
leading off from here are home to bars
and nightclubs pumping out every type of
music imaginable.
Recent gentrification of the
neighbourhood means that the oldfashioned pe-sujo (literally meaning ‘dirty
feet’ this is the name affectionately given
to simple stand-up bars, referencing the
type of bare-footed or flip flop-wearing
drinkers that tend to frequent them) that
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Visiting the Christ statue
One of the New Seven Wonders of the
World, the statue of Christ the Redeemer
embraces the city from atop of Corcovado,
the highest of Rio’s many mountains.
Standing 30 meters tall and with an arm
span of 30 meters, this art deco Christ is an
icon recognised the world over.
The statue is impressive in itself, but it’s
the views from its base that will really take
your breath away.
Head here in the early morning - before
crowds and afternoon clouds arrive - to
see one of the world’s greatest cityscapes
unfold beneath you. Curved beaches,
soccer stadiums, dense jungle, sprawling
favelas, high-rise developments and smaller
mountains - including the famous Sugar
Loaf - all clamour for your attention as
condors swoop past your eyeline.
The classic way to visit the statue is to take
Maracana Stadium
Football, soccer, futebol - call it what you
want, there’s no doubting Brazil’s love for
o jogo bonito (the beautiful game). And
you don’t need to be a footie fan to enjoy
a match in Rio.
A mortifying 7-1 defeat to Germany on
home turf in the 2014 FIFA World Cup
has not diminished Brazilians’ love for
the game, and the legendary Maracana
stadium is a must-visit for any sports fan.
Although no longer the largest stadium
in the world, the mighty Maracana is a
spectacular stadium thanks to a multimillion dollar refurb ahead of the 2014
World Cup, and will also host major
football matches during the 2016 Rio
Olympics. The local soccer season never
seems to draw to a close - there are so
many local, national and pan-national
competitions that the biggest teams never
get much of a break.
Head here on the day of a major game
to see a sporting spectacle like no other.
Although FIFA regulations mean that
the stands are are no longer the sensory
explosion of drums, dancing and fireworks
that they were before the World Cup
arrived here, but watching a game is still a
lively affair complete with giant flags and
dancing in the aisles.
A word of caution though: avoid wearing
Visiting Rio de Janeiro during Carnival
means you will see the city at its hedonistic,
hectic best, but the city has a whole lot
more to offer than eye-popping costumes
and sambistas shaking their tail feathers.
Try to take time out from the flurry of
festas and Carnival parades to see some
of the city’s other stellar attractions especially if you will be jetting off soon
after the party is over.
Known as the Cidade Maravilhosa
(Marvelous City), Rio has far more than
its fair share of attention-grabbing sights,
so visitors short on time or low on energy
levels might want to take advantage of
whistle-stop city tours in order to tick
several sights - and snap plenty of photos in one day.
the funicular railway up the jungle-clad
slopes of Corcovado - tickets can be bought
online - but a quicker way to take the trip
is by official van from Largo do Machado.
Again, tickets can be bought online. Tour
operators may also include a trip to the
statue in some city tours - often with a stop
for a refreshing waterfall dip on the way up
through Tijuca National Park.
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Rio beyond Carnival
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The dizzying cable car ride to the top of
Sugar Loaf Mountain is almost as essential
as making the pilgrimage to the foot of the
Christ Statue, and the views from the top
are just as dazzling.
If time is short, try to fit both into one
sightseeing day, with the Christ statue in
the morning and Sugar Loaf at the end
of the afternoon. The views as the sun
sets over the horizon and bathes beaches,
mountains, jungle, high rise hotels and
sprawling favelas in a golden glow is
seriously impressive. Just add a caipirinha
from one of the mountain top bars for the
ultimate sense-tingling moment.
If you have the time, take a stroll around
the neighborhood. Despite being home
to one of Rio’s biggest tourist attractions,
Urca remains under-explored by foreign
visitors, who tend to hop back on the tour
bus after their cable car ride. Those who
invest a little time here are well rewarded
- there are some pleasant beaches including Praia Vermelha, a sheltered cove
right beneath Sugar Loaf itself - as well
as handsome colonial mansions and lively
botecos (lively bar-restaurants).
There are some gentle trails and more
challenging hill climbs, and it is even
possible to ascend on foot to the first
Santa Teresa
If you’re taking your blocos (Pages 34-37)
seriously, then chances are high that you
will pay a visit to this historic, boho-chic
hillside neighborhood, which is known as
the artistic heart of Rio and which hosts
some of Carnival’s most popular street
parties.
But if you really want to get to know
this fascinating bairro, which is an enclave
for artists, musicians, writers and other
bohemian types in the city, you’ll need to
escape the samba-dancing hordes.
The hard-to-reach hillside location is a
blessing for the neighborhood, which feels
curiously like a small village despite being
just minutes away from hectic Lapa and the
bustling business districts of downtown.
With weak public transport links, Santa
Teresa is due to be transformed when
the famous bondinhos re-opens. The
rattling yellow trams were a symbol of the
neighbourhood and the service was due to
be resumed in time for the 2014 FIFA World
Cup but in true South American fashion,
the city still waits for the trams to run once
again. In the meantime, cab drivers may
look disgruntled if you ask them to drive
up to the neighbourhood but stand your
ground as, by law, they can’t refuse.
Regular buses rattle up the steep cobbled
streets from Lapa, but they are often
uncomfortably full. But it’s well worth
the effort, as the lofty location makes for
stunning views, the bars fizz with energy,
and there are some marvelous colonial
mansions to goggle at. If you can bear to
be away from the beaches, Santa Teresa
is also home to Rio’s largest collection of
small guesthouses and boutique hotels,
many of which have lush tropical gardens
and pools, at a fraction of the price of
Copacabana’s rather charm-free chain
hotels.
Hanggliding
Visitors with a head for heights should be
sure to take advantage of the opportunity
to share the condors’ view over Rio. Hanggliding is a hugely popular activity here,
and there’s no experience needed to take a
tandem flight over this majestic city.
Experienced instructors make the leap of
faith from Pedra da Gavea - a flat mountain
peak in the middle of the jungle - and soar
over the hills, houses and beaches before
making a soft landing on the sands of Sao
Conrado, a beach to the west of Ipanema
and Leblon. There are several tandem
flight companies, expect to pay upwards of
US$200 for a flight.
Sugar Loaf and Urca
cable car stop at Morro da Urca, the
smaller peak next to Sugar Loaf. A harbour
with bobbing boats against a backdrop
of mountains and the Christ Statue
help to make this one of Rio’s prettiest
neighborhoods and, thanks to a military
base, it’s also one of the safest places in the
city to take a stroll.
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team colours in the vicinity of the stadium
before or after a match, as rivalries can
sometimes become aggressive.
Major local derbies include the legendary
Fla-Flu (Flamengo vs Fluminense) as
well as Flamengo-Vasco. It is easy and
relatively cheap to arrange your own trip
- the stadium has its own metro - but an
organized trip makes for a hassle-free way
to see a game.
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towards Buzios and Arraial do Cabo for
gorgeous beaches; or west along the aptlyWhile Carnival more than justifies a visit to named Costa Verde (Green Coast) for the
Brazil in itself, those who have the time and vast nature reserve island of Ilha Grande
budget for some further exploring in this
and the perfectly-preserved colonial town
vast nation will find no end of opportunity of Paraty and its stunning nearby beaches.
for adventures.
The Sun Coast - Buzios and Arraial do
There’s post-Carnival R&R at gorgeous
Cabo
beach towns just a few hours’ drive from
Rio, while travels farther afield will take
Head east along the Costa do Sol (the
you to the magnificent crashing falls
aptly-named Sun Coast) for endless
at Iguaçu, the vast swamplands of the
swimming and sunbathing opportunities
Pantanal with their colorful flora and
at chic Buzios and nearby Arraial do Cabo.
fauna; or into the arid Northeast with its
It’s a drive of around three hours, and
gorgeous beaches, delicious food and Afro- although the first part of the journey
Brazilian culture.
is dominated by traffic jams and ugly
Tour companies ranging from luxury
industrial developments, the Costa do Sol
operators to backpacker-friendly budget
more than justifies the journey.
options can take some of the time and
The destination of choice for wealthy
hassle out of travelling in this continentCariocas looking to ease their post-Carnival
sized country, although those who choose
hangovers, Buzios is a beach town sitting
to go it alone will find there are good
on a peninsula with more than 20 beaches
flight links. Bus companies are available
ranging from busy surfer hangouts with
to give you the chance to take in the
crashing waves to tiny spits of sand with
diverse landscape en-route to your next
calm, warm waters.
destination.
The town was a sleepy fishing village
before it was discovered by screen siren
Relax on the beaches of Rio de Janeiro
Brigitte Bardot in the 1960s, who holidayed
State
here with her Brazilian boyfriend of the
You won’t need to travel far to recharge
time, and attracted the world’s attention
the batteries after the hectic partying pace as she strolled the pristine beaches in
of Carnival. The city of Rio boasts more
her bikini. Blessed with more sunny days
than its fair share of natural beauty, and
per year than anywhere else in Rio state,
the beaches, mountains and jungle don’t
Buzios’ parched dusty trails and cracked red
stop at the city limits. Just a few hours’
earth are a marked contrast to the dense
drive from Rio lie chic beach resorts, quiet
rainforest of the city itself.
coastal towns and paradisical islands, and
Following in Ms Bardot’s footsteps
most of these relaxing hangouts are easily
is the buzz of today’s gente bonita
reached by comfy air conditioned coach or (beautiful people) who sun themselves
convenient group transfers.
on the beaches by day, eat at upmarket
If you’re pushed for time, you’ll need to
restaurants in the evening and hang out at
decide whether you want to head east,
upmarket bars and trendy clubs (legendary
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Brazil beyond Rio
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Nearby Arraial do Cabo is a small, lesstouristy fishing town that has been
nicknamed the Caribbean of Brazil in
honour of its crystal clear waters and white
sandy beaches.
It is one of the most popular places in the
country for scuba diving, and there are
Padi-accredited schools here. With very
few value accommodation options, Arraial
do Cabo is best visited as a day trip from
Buzios - there are many companies offering
transfer services.
Nearby, the larger beach town of Cabo
Frio is not as pretty and attracts a rather
rowdy crowd, so it’s safe to scratch it from
your must-visit list.
Comfy air-conditioned coaches leave from
Rio’s long-distance bus station roughly
once an hour, and there are numerous
tour companies offering transfer services.
Some include accommodation in the
package, although with so many pousadas
in Buzios it is easy to arrange lodgings
independently. Book well in advance at
weekends and on public holidays, though.
Ilha Grande and Paraty
Heading west from Rio you’ll soon
reach the Green Coast. Unlike the rather
underwhelming drive to Buzios, this
jungle-clad stretch of coast with its bays
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and beaches makes for an aestheticallypleasing journey, and here you’ll find two
of Rio state’s most popular attractions: Ilha
Grande and Paraty.
A firm favorite with backpackers, Ilha
Grande (literally Big Island) is the place
to come for ruggedly beautiful beaches,
jungle treks and wild nature. With just
one real town and no cars, Ilha Grande
is a designated nature reserve and as
such its beaches are largely unspoiled.
One of them, Lopes Mendes, is a curve of
white sand fringed by thick jungle and is
frequently cited as one of the best beaches
in the whole of Brazil.
Here, as at many of the island’s beaches,
you’re more likely to find a solitary beach
vendor selling coconut water and cold
beauty spots. It makes sense to visit Ilha
Grande and Paraty in one trip, with both
deserving at least a couple of days’ stay Ilha Grande, in particular, can be very hard
to leave.
A word to the wise, check weather
forecasts before booking a trip here Paraty’s streets are ‘washed’ with rain
during heavy downpours, which may sound
quaint but is not so appealing once the
water starts coming through your bedroom
ceiling or under the door (common at
hostels and cheaper hotels in the historic
centre). Similarly, Ilha Grande is very much
a fair-weather destination, with poor
internet connections and little by the way
of rainy day options.
Coaches leave approximately once an
hour from Rio’s long distance bus terminal,
(tickets cost around US$20 and the bus
takes roughly four hours) while several
companies offer hop-on, hop-off trips from
Rio.
Salvador da Bahia - beaches and history
The Northeastern state of Bahia is
famously home to some of Brazil’s most
spectacular beaches - many of which are as
remote and unspoiled as Copacabana and
Ipanema are built up and busy.
It’s a full day and night bus journey or a
two-hour flight from Rio to the buzzing
state capital, Salvador, which is home to
some of the most impressive 17th and 18th
century architecture in the country.
The city, and the wider state, is also
famous for its distinct Afro-Brazilian
culture. The fascinating fusion of culinary,
religious and artistic traditions can be
seen in the white-clad followers of the
Candomble religion and the loose-limbed
practitioners of capoeira (the elegant
Arraial do Cabo
beers than the hordes of hawkers that sell
their wares along Rio’s city beaches.
It’s a sticky, strenuous two-hour walk to
the beach from the town center and ferry
terminal, but taxi boats and organised
beach-hopping trips take the strain for
those who just want to take it easy.
Ilha Grande can be reached by slow ferry
from the rather workaday beach town of
Angra dos Reis, but it’s quicker to take a
fishing boat from Conceição de Jacare,
a small town en-route to Angra. Comfy
air-conditioned buses head here roughly
every hour from Rio’s long-distance bus
terminal (US$15 for a trip of around 2.5
hours), and the fishing boats take under an
hour, costing around US$6 per person. It is
easier and more cost-effective (factoring in
taxis to the bus station) to go with a group
tour or transfer service, which includes
pick up and drop off, transport in an air
conditioned van and boat from Conceição
de Jacare.
Some two hours further along the coast
lies the perfectly-preserved colonial town
of Paraty. The entire historic center of
Paraty (sometimes spelled Parati) is a
UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the
cobblestone streets, whitewashed churches
and pastel-hued houses vie with artisanal
cachaca stores for visitors’ attention
Paraty has a rather artsy vibe - and hosts
Brazil’s largest annual literary festival in
June - but there’s plenty of beach-hopping
to be done in addition to cultural pursuits.
The town’s own beaches are pleasant
enough, but boat trips out to the scattering
of nearby islands will take you to the really
beautiful spots.
Nearby, Trindade is a relaxed, somewhat
hippyish beach town complete with
crashing waterfalls and other natural
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Rio Carnival
Ibiza club Pacha has a branch here) into the
small hours.
The many boutique hotels and casual
pousadas (independent guest houses)
tend to offer a lot more value for money
than those of Rio itself, and Buzios can be
reached by coach or transfer from the city
in under three hours. (A puddle jump by
Brazilian standards.)
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Exploring the Brazilian Amazon
Few cariocas ever make it as far as the
Brazilian Amazon, but the rainforest is high
on the bucket list of many adventurous
international travelers. Take a flight from
Rio to Manaus, the capital of the Amazon
region, which blends Portuguese and
indigenous cultures to fascinating effect.
This city of more than two million people
sits on the banks of the Rio Negro, at the
point where it meets the Rio Solimões river
to form the Amazon itself. The stretch of
water is so vast that appears almost oceanlike in places, and gorgeous sandy beaches
form during the dry season.
River cruises range from basic trips where
you can hang a hammock on a fishing
boat to high-end vessels with all comforts
included, and there are jungle lodges
dotted throughout the region. You’re not
likely to spot any large land mammals but
you may catch sight of the famous pink
dolphins and birds and butterflies will be
constant companions.
Manaus’ distinct culture and cuisine
make it worth a couple of days’ stay, too
- be sure to visit the grand Renaissance
Opera House, whose opulence is rather
incongruous in the middle of the world’s
largest jungle.
Wildlife spotting in the Pantanal
Contrary to popular belief, the Brazilian
Amazon is not the best place to spot
wildlife. That honour goes instead to the
Pantanal - a marshy wetland the size of
France. Slather on the mosquito repellent
and prepare to see all manner of wading
birds and large mammals in this region of
open savannahs and steamy tropical jungle.
Located in the states of Mato Grosso
and Mato Grosso do Sul, this swampy
region has few inhabitants and only a few
small towns, so the best way to visit is by
organised tour. The largest town close to
the Pantanal is Campo Grande, which has
little charm in itself but is a good base for
wider exploring.
The Pantanal town of Corumba has some
basic backpacker hostels and is very close to
the border with Bolivia, making it a popular
stopover for backpackers on trans-South
America trips.
alligators, crocodiles and elusive jaguars.
Each side of the falls merits at least a
full day’s exploring, with the Brazilian
side offering panoramic views and the
Argentine side allowing visitors to get
right up close to the crashing waters.
Crossing the border into Argentina - and
Paraguay, should you be curious to step
onto Paraguayan soil or feel the urge to
shop for pirated perfumes in the border
town of Ciudad del Este (or Cidade do Este
in Portuguese) - is a quick and relatively
hassle-free process, but do make sure you
have visas in order and have paid any
necessary fees before you attempt to cross.
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martial-arts style dance that has its roots in
times of slavery); tasted in the fiery pepper
sauce that flavors almost every dish; and
heard in the tribal sound of the drumming
that fires up Salvador’s many street parties.
Carnival in Salvador is gaining on Rio in
the popularity stakes, too, and those who
are able to experience a little of both may
want to consider doing just that - each
city’s Carnival is markedly different to the
other, and Salvador’s street parties have a
(literally) electric atmosphere as hundreds
of thousands of partiers follow the Trio
Eletricos - buses with sound systems that
transport big name bands through the city
streets.
Iguaçu Falls and the border with Argentina
and Paraguay
The largest waterfall in the world by
volume and the second highest after
Venezuela’s Angel Falls, magnificent Iguaçu
has been described as making Niagara look
like ‘a dripping tap’. It is really a series of
waterfalls, the largest of which is the truly
breath-taking Garganta do Diabo (Devil’s
Throat) whose thundering waters can be
heard from miles around.
The falls are located at Brazil’s border with
Argentina and Paraguay, and are divided
into Argentine and Brazilian sides. On the
Brazilian side, the large town of Foz do
Iguaçu is bigger, busier and notably less
attractive than the smaller Argentine town
of Puerto Iguazu - the latter makes a better
base, but visitors from some countries will
need a separate visa to cross the border.
The falls are dotted around a vast semitropical jungle, home to more than 500
types of bird, colorful butterflies and a
native animal population that includes
bold coatis who will not hesitate to swipe
your picnic, along with thankfully more shy
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most densely populated parts of the city
(excluding the favelas).
Nightlife in Copacabana is quieter and
more relaxed than the buzzing Lapa or
funky Santa Teresa so if you are looking
for a break from the samba drums,
Copacabana might be the right place for
you to bed down for the night.
Rio de Janeiro
neighbourhood guide
Rio de Janeiro often feels more like a
collection of towns than one big city. This is
partly due to the physical barriers of jungle,
water and mountains, and partly because
each neighbourhood has its own distinct
identity.
While the majority of Rio locals live in
the sprawling breezeblock developments
that lie to the north and east of the
beaches, most visitors will choose to
base themselves in the scenic Zona Sul (the city’s affluent South Zone), Centro
(downtown), or in the historic hillside
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neighborhood of Santa Teresa. Each of
the Zona Sul’s neighborhoods has its own
appeal. Listed below are those with good
accommodation and local amenities.
Copacabana & Leme
Home to what is possibly the world’s
most famous beach, Copacabana also has
Rio’s largest concentration of hotels. The
neighbourhood fell out of favour with the
chic set during the 1990s, when Ipanema
became the beach of choice, but it’s back
to its buzzing best after being given a
major cleanup ahead of the 2014 FIFA
World Cup.
The beaches are fully floodlit and packed
with sports enthusiasts and strolling
couples even late at night, and the famous
black-and-white swirled pavement is
packed with runners, joggers, drinkers and
diners at all hours.
During the daytime, Copacabana - called
Leme at its quieter eastern end - throngs
with beautiful people wearing very small
swimwear. This applies to both genders,
and to all ages and body types. Looking
good on the beach in Rio is all about body
confidence, and the locals have it in spades.
Stretching for nearly four miles,
Copacabana beach is lined with places
to eat and drink that range from simple
kiosks selling snacks and cheap caiprinhas
to smart bars and restaurants, and the
neighborhood’s three metro stations make
it easy to get around.
The best views over the bay will come with
a premium price but for those wanting
to make their stay even more special, it
is worth the cost. Just one or two blocks
away from the beach, the neighbourhood
gets busy and bustling as one of the
Resources
Rio de Janeiro Neighborhoods
Ipanema is famous for its gorgeous beach
and the young and lovely beach beauties
that frequent it. Ipanema is one of Rio’s
wealthiest neighborhoods, and beachfront
hotels here charge a premium for their
location. Those a couple of blocks back
are more reasonably priced, and the leafy
backstreets can be more pleasant a base
than those of nearby Copacabana. A good
hostel scene provides options for budget
travelers who want to be close to the
famous sands, while at the top end of the
price scale, the Philippe Starck-designed
Hotel Fasano Rio attracts local and visiting
A-listers.
Ipanema is packed with trendy bars and
restaurants as well as upscale boutiques,
and the metro station here makes it easy to
reach Carnival celebrations in Centro. There
is a lively gay scene, with LGBT bars along
the tree-lined Farme do Amoeda.
At the eastern end of Ipanema beach,
almost joining Copacabana, is Arpoador, a
quieter stretch of sand popular with surfers
and famous for the giant rock that juts out
to sea and offers magnificent sunset views.
Like all Rio beaches, Ipanema is informally
divided by numbered postos (lifeguard
posts), with each post number having its
own distinct crowd. The most famous is
Posto Nove - post nine - which is known for
its young, sociable crowd, while the gay
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Resources
Ipanema, Arpoador & Leblon
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Lapa & Santa Teresa
If you’re willing to sacrifice the beach
location, Lapa and Santa Teresa attract
a bohemian crowd with proximity to the
Sambadrome as well as the biggest of all
the blocos. The two historic neighborhoods
are within walking distance of one another
(although it’s a steep uphill climb to
Santa Teresa), and both are central to the
Carnival action.
If you really want to party hard then
Lapa is the place. There are abundant
backpacker hostels here and they are
some of the cheapest in the city. They are
also right on the doorstep of the huge
nocturnal street party and Sambadrome
stadium and the Cordao de Bolo Preto
bloco, the oldest and the biggest of the
Carnival street parties.
Handily placed midway between the
beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana
and the history and nightlife of Centro
and Lapa, Botafogo and Flamengo both
have metro stations, and are home to
some of the more interesting independent
restaurants and bars in Rio. Botafogo in
particularly has a youthful feel thanks to a
significant student population, and there
are good shopping centers here too.
Scenic Laranjeiras neighbors both
Flamengo and Botafogo, and while it lacks
a beach and has no metro station, it scores
major brownie points for its lively Carnival
blocos - including a popular children’s bloco
- as well as its busy neighborhood squares,
traditional street markets and trendy bars
and nightlife.
The are some attention-grabbing historic
buildings, including a grand old palace,
which is located right next to the training
ground of another major Rio team Fluminense. There are few large hotels
here, but plenty of welcoming guest
houses, and the jungle spills right down
to the front doors in this tranquil (by Rio
standards) neighborhood.
Resources
While there are few quiet corners in Rio
de Janeiro over the Carnival period, Lapa
is definitely not one of them. The hectic
pace doesn’t let up here even in the middle
of the night when Carnival is in full swing
- but there are a couple of handy metro
stations, which means you can be at the
beach in less than half an hour, and you’ll
have the best nightlife in the city on your
doorstep as well as some handsome old
buildings to look at if you choose to make
this neighbourhood your base.
For even more colonial charm, the
neighbouring bairro of Santa Teresa is
home to Rio’s most impressive colonial
mansions, many of which now operate as
guest houses and boutique hotels. Tropical
gardens with pools and resident monkeys
are commonplace at lodgings here, and
prices are less than half those of the beach
neighborhoods.
The bus to Santa Teresa from Lapa is a
wild, bumpy ride, and many taxi drivers will
refuse to make the climb, but motorbike
taxis are cheap, abundant and fun for
those with a sense of adventure.
Rio Carnival
Resources
Rio Carnival
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community gathers by a huge rainbow flag
on the beach.
Ipanema nightlife is surprisingly sedate,
although there is a handful of lively bars,
but there are some great Carnival blocos
here (see pages 32-37), including the famous
Banda de Ipanema, which is one of the most
popular of all the Carnival street parties.
At the western end of Ipanema (the
border is marked by a small canal) is superchic Leblon, a neighbourhood famous
for its luxury apartments and high end
boutiques. There are fewer lodging options
here than in Ipanema and Copacabana, but
several rental companies offer furnished
apartments. Leblon’s drinking and dining
scene is very lively, and there are plenty
of informal hole-in-the-wall bars as well as
more exclusive lounges.
At the time of writing Leblon’s metro station
is still under construction but is expected to
be open before the 2016 Olympics.
Botafogo, Flamengo and Laranjeiras
Beachfront neighbors Botafogo and
Flamengo are perhaps most famous for
their football teams, but these largely
residential neighborhoods have plenty
to offer besides big name sports teams.
Both have beaches and, while the water is
too dirty for swimming, the magnificent
backdrop of Sugar Loaf mountain makes
them popular with runners and sunbathers.
Both have lively hostel scenes, and while
there are fewer hotels here than elsewhere,
the options in these neighborhoods are
significantly cheaper than those in the
more famous beachside districts.
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Carnival eating
Rio de Janeiro’s street food is a delicious
and cheap way to sate your appetite while
sampling some local flavours. During Rio
Carnival there are more street vendors than
at any other time of year as entrepreneurial
locals flock to the city to make the most of
the crowds.
Along with street stands set up at the
side of the road where blocos are taking
place, vendors sell homemade pastries,
sandwiches, brownies and slabs of cake,
which they sell from their cool boxes as
they stroll along with the partying masses.
For something more substantial, look
for street vendors selling the following
traditional snacks:
Tapioca - Light pancakes made from
cassava flour, tapioca is made to order and
filled with savoury or sweet ingredients.
Popular fillings include cheese and ham,
chicken and soft cheese or goiabada
(guava jelly) with salty white cheese, while
traditionalists sell them with shredded
sun-dried beef, and innovators cater to
the health-conscious with vegan-friendly
vegetable fillings. Naturally gluten free,
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Espetinho - Popularly referred to by
foreigners as “meat on a stick”, these are
a focal point of Carnival eating. Chunks of
red meat, chicken or salsichao (a giant hot
dog) are cooked over hot coals and served
either by themselves or on a plate with rice,
salad and farofa, seasoned and toasted
manioc flour. A vegetarian alternative is
queijo coalho (hard white cheese, similar
to halloumi) which is also a popular beach
snack.
´X-Tudo´ Burger - The name comes from
the way that the letter X is pronounced in
Brazilian Portuguese, which sounds similar
to cheese in English. What began as X
Burger (cheese burger) quickly extended
to take in a whole host of other burger
companions including egg, bacon, salad
and matchstick potatoes. When the whole
lot is flung together on a bun it becomes
an X Tudo (‘cheese everything’) burger.
Veggies can even ask the vendor to hold
the meat - you might get some odd looks,
but you’ll also get a hearty meat-free
sandwich.
Cachorro Quente (hot dog) - These are
not your average hot dogs. Brazilians balk
at the idea of eating a simple frankfurter
on a bread bun, and instead opt for a
whole range of toppings including olives,
tinned peas, corn, and even quail eggs.
Many sellers have a mini-buffet with a
whole range of toppings from which
hungry partiers can take their pick. There’s
normally a choice of sausage type, too salsicha is a hot dog, while linguica is a real
sausage and normally a couple of reais
more expensive.
Acai - This Amazonian berry is credited
with everything from improving mental
performance to preventing ageing, but
it’s the berry’s alleged energy-boosting
properties that make it a top snack during
Carnival. The antioxidant-rich berries are
served crushed into a kind of sorbet that
may be mixed with fruit (or even Guarana
syrup for an added caffeine rush) and
topped with granola, and served at the
juice bars that can be found on every street
corner in Rio. Acai vendors stroll along
Ipanema and Copacabana beaches, and
during Carnival some street sellers sell the
confection in little plastic cups. Washed
down with a cold coconut water, it is a
delicious and refreshing treat.
Carnival drinking
If you are looking for alcoholic beverages,
the biggest booze trend to hit Carnival
in recent years has undoubtedly been
the sacolé de caiprinha, or caipilé. Cheap,
convenient, cooling and with a potent kick,
these are homemade caipirinha popsicles,
sucked straight from the little plastic bags
that they are frozen in.
The success of the caipilé has spawned
more adventurous versions featuring just
about every imaginable combination of
fruit and alcohol. Most vendors will sell
versions featuring either vodka or cachaça
(sugar cane rum) with a variety of fruits.
Some of the most popular are manga
(mango), maracujá (passion fruit) and
morango (strawberry). Selling frozen booze
is now a popular way for locals to make
money during the festivities. Look out for
the placards held aloft over the crowds,
and expect to pay around R$2-5 depending
on the vendor.
Beer and traditional caipirinhas are usually
sold from makeshift stands at the side
of the road, along with cold water and
soft drinks - do be sure to drink plenty of
water, as the soaring temperatures and
endless dancing leave you at risk at getting
dehydrated fast.
If you are looking for something a little
more unusual than frozen cocktails, beers
and soft drinks, keep an eye out for the
green and yellow carts selling fresh agua
de coco, or coconut water. Vendors sell the
wonderfully hydrating fluid by the cup,
bottle or straight from the green coconut
through a straw.
Resources
Carnival revellers need more than frozen
fruit cocktails to keep energy levels from
flagging, but there’s no need to break
your stride in order to refuel, thanks to
the street-side stalls and vendors with an
enormous range of drinks and snacks to
choose from as you dance along with the
crowds. Vendors usually carry placards on
sticks advertising their wares, making it
easy for hungry and thirsty Carnival-goers
to spot them among the crowd.
they are a tasty and relatively cheap way to
grab a bite to eat (expect to pay between
R$6-12).
Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
Resources
Carnival food & drink guide
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Hi - Oi (Oy)
Good morning - Bom dia (bon djee-a)
Good afternoon - Boa tarde (bow-a
tahdjee)
Good evening/good night - Boa noite
(Bow-a noytchee)
Goodbye - Tchau (ciao)
See you later - Ate mais tarde (A-tay maish
tahd-jee)
How much is… - Quanto custa…? (Cuantoo
cushta?)
Could you give me… - Pode me dar…?
(Podge me dah)
Where is the… - Onde fica…? (Ondgee feeca)
Bathroom - Banheiro (Banyair-oh)
I am lost! - Estou perdido (male speaker)
Estou perdida (female speaker) (Eshtoo
perdgee-do/eshtoo perdgee-dah)
Can you help me? - Pode me ajudar?
(Podge me ajoo-dah)?
I am looking for… - Estou procurando…
(Eshtoo procoorandoo)
Carnival health & safety
With a few sensible precautions, all visitors
can enjoy Rio Carnival without fear or
incident. Visitors are unlikely to fall victim
to anything more serious than a pickpocket
or opportunist snatch thief, but try not to
make yourself an easy target. Avoid wandering alone in deserted areas
even by day, and stick to well-lit, busy streets
at night. If you have to carry valuables
with you, don’t carry them all in one bag,
particularly if it could be easy to snatch.
Try not to take out large money bills with
you and keep them hidden in a money belt
(female visitors often find their bra a good
place to stash anything from cash to keys).
Never bring out all your bank cards at once leave one in the safe at your hotel.
It is usually safe to use public transport
at night, but be sure you won’t face any
deserted stretches walking to or from the
bus stop or metro stations, and take taxis
whenever possible. Taxis in Rio de Janeiro
are generally inexpensive and widely
available, although few drivers speak
English so have your destination written
down if you don’t speak Portuguese.
If you have an expensive phone it is wise to
keep this out of sight, and it is even worth
carrying a decoy phone - a cheap model that
can be handed over quickly in the unlikely
event that you’re mugged. If the worst does
happen, don’t attempt to resist and just
hand over whatever is asked for.
Don’t carry backpacks on your back, or
anything in back pockets, in crowded places.
Try to avoid using your phone on the street duck into a shop or cafe if necessary.
When at the beach, bring just as much
cash as you are likely to need for drinks
and snacks, and keep an eye on your
belongings at all times. You’re likely to be
approached on the beach and nine times
in ten it’ll be by a friendly local wanting to
say hello, but stay alert as it’s not unheard
of for tourists to lose their bags while being
distracted by an accomplice.
If you take a nap on the beach, keep your
bag under your head rather than by your
side, and be aware that it is not uncommon
for thieves to help themselves to clothes
and even flip flops given the opportunity.
Pale-skinned visitors will never pass for a
local but try to walk with confidence and
as though you know exactly where you’re
going, even if you actually feel completely
lost. Whipping out a map on the street is
not a wise move.
When heading to street parties, don’t
bring anything with you that you can’t
afford to lose. Back up photos on a daily
basis, and even consider going old-school
with a disposable camera.
But above all, relax and enjoy yourself.
When in Rio it’s important to be cautious
but not paranoid - take a few sensible
precautions and you’ll remember Carnival
for all the right reasons.
Resources
Pronunciation varies across regions of
Brazil, those given here are for Portuguese
as spoken by Rio locals.
In Portuguese, some words end in either
“o” or “a” depending on whether the
speaker is male or female. For example,
a woman would be chateada (annoyed)
whereas a man would be chateado. The
word for thank you translates as ‘obliged’
and follows the male/female pattern - so
a woman would say obrigada and a man
would say obrigado.
Brazilian Portuguese is not an easy
language to master and few locals speak
much English, but visitors can relax in the
knowledge that locals are accustomed
to foreigners who do not speak the
language. Any attempt to communicate in
Portuguese will be appreciated (although
speaking Spanish can cause offence) and
locals who speak a little English will take
the opportunity to practice.
Hello - Olá (oh-la)
Excuse me - Dar licença (Dah leesensa)
Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
Resources
Key phrases & vocab
Please - Por favor (pour fahvoor)
Thank you - Obrigado (male speaking)
Obrigada (female speaking)
Sorry - Desculpe (Deshcoolpay)
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Rio Carnival
Copacabana
Avenida Atlântica - Copacabana Rio de
Janeiro - RJ
Tel. 2541-7522
Aeropuerto Internacional Antonio Carlos
Jobim
Avenida Vinte de Janeiro, s/n° - Galeão, Ilha
do Governador Rio de Janeiro - RJ, 21941570
Ilha do Governador
Tel. 3398 - 4077 | 3367-6213
Barra
Avenida do Pêpê - Barra da Tijuca Rio de
Janeiro - RJ
Lapa
Avenida Mém de Sá - Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Ipanema
Rua Visconde de Pirajá - Ipanema Rio de
Janeiro - RJ, 22410-002
Candelaria
Rua Candelária, 6 - Centro Rio de Janeiro RJ, 20091-020 ‎
Centro
Shopping da Gavea
Rua Marquês de São Vicente, 52 - Gávea
Rio de Janeiro - RJ, 22451-041 ‎
Gávea
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Emergency phone numbers
Police
Tel.190
Fire and Ambulance
Tel. 192/193
Tourist police
24-hr. contact line
Tel. 021/3399-7170
Hospitals (emergency room)
Miguel Couto- Leblon
Tel. 021/2274-6050
Rocha Maia- Botafogo
Tel. 021/2295-2121
Hospitals/clinics/pharmacies
Galdino Campos Clinic
Accepts most international travellers
insurance, open 24 hours, 7 days a week.
Home-care visit at hotels and hostels also
available.
Av. Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 492
Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro
Tel. 2548-9966
www.galdinocampos.com.br
The following pharmacies are located in
some of the main tourist areas and are
open 24 hours.
Apolo
Av. N. Sra. de Copacabana 1212,
Copacabana
Tel. (21) 2265 3444
Leme
Av. Prado jr. 237, Copacabana
Tel. (21) 2275 3847
designed like this are either special service
cars (to the airport or bus stations) or
illegal.
Drogaria Pacheco
Av. N. Sra. de Copacabana 534,
Copacabana
Tel. (21) 2548 1525
Rio’s taxis are not too expensive on a
kilometre basis but distances can be quite
considerable. The car can usually hold
four people. Major taxi companies include
Central de Taxi, Ouro Taxi and Yellow Taxi.
Farma Life
Av. das américas, 1.155, lj. C, Barra da Tijuca
Tel. (21) 2494 7642
Drogaria Padrão
Estrada da Barra, 1.636, lj. E, Barra da
Tijuca
Tel. (21) 2493 1000
Transport
Rio de Janeiro-Galeáo/Antonio Carlos
Jobim Airport
One of the country’s busiest airports, Rio
de Janeiro-Galeáo/Antonio Carlos Jobim
Airport is the hub for travellers entering
Rio. There are two terminals which are
linked with a travelator and there is both
an air-conditioned bus (Empresa Real)
as well as an hourly shuttle bus which
links travellers from the airport to the city
centre.
Santos Dumont Airport
This is the local domestic airport in Rio
located adjacent to downtown Rio. It
provides short haul flights to other parts of
Brazil such as Sao Paulo.
+55 21 3814-7070
Taxis
All city cabs are yellow with a blue stripe
painted on the sides. There are also radio
taxis (blue, green or white) that tend to be
more expensive but fixed rate. Taxis not
Be aware that traffic jams in Rio, especially
during Carnival, can be terrible. A taxi ride
from Lapa or Catete to the bus terminal
for instance can take an hour if you get
seriously stuck, so make sure to allow
yourself enough time.
Very few taxi drivers speak English, so if
you don’t speak any Portuguese it is best
to write down the address you’re trying
to reach, and if possible the name of a
nearby reference point such as a landmark
building, or well-known bar or restaurant.
Attempts to communicate in Spanish will
not get you very far, and some Brazilians
may even take offence.
Metro
The subway is a popular, safe form of
transport in Rio, and there are metro
stations in many of the main Carnival
centers.
Resources
Resources
Tourist information points can be found
at key tourist hotspots in Rio, as well as
at the airports and some metro stations,
and are good places to pick up free maps
and listings magazines and chat to Englishspeaking staff. Kiosks can be found at the
following locations:
The main tourist information centre is
located in Copacabana
Avenida Princesa Isabel, 183 - Copacabana
Rio de Janeiro - RJ, 22011-010
Copacabana
Tel. 2541-7522
Rio Carnival
Rio de Janeiro contacts
At time of writing, work was underway
to extend the system west of Ipanema
and out to Barra da Tijuca in time for the
2016 Rio Olympics. Until then, there are
special subway-buses from Ipanema going
to Leblon, Gavea, Laranjeiras and Barra da
Tijuca. In order to take these buses, you
should mention at the time of the subway
ticket purchase that you want to take the
"Metro na superficie" and inform your final
destination. The vendor will give you a
ticket to the subway-bus along with your
subway ticket, no cost added.
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Rio Carnival
The fare is paid in cash to a controller
or the driver inside the bus, by passing
through a roulette. There are no tickets, so
try to have change/small bills. As a general
rule buses stop only when you hail them - if
you don't hail and there are no passengers
waiting to get off, the bus simply won't
stop!
Use the popular lines for common tourist
attractions such as:
#583 (from Copacabana, Ipanema, others)
or #584 (Leblon) to the Corcovado Railway
station for the Christ the Redeemer Statue.
#464 (from Copacabana and many other
South Zone locations) to Maracanã and the
famed soccer stadium.
The bus station is close to downtown Rio,
but is located in a somewhat sketchy area
so it is best to take a taxi if you have lots
of luggage. Don’t wander around the
surrounding area, especially after dark.
Francisco Bicalho, 1 - Santo Cristo
Rio de Janeiro - RJ
http://rodoviariaonline.com.br/
rodoviaria/rio-de-janeiro-novo-rio/
Resources
Resources
Buses
City buses are a cheap form of travel, The
opening hours are Monday to Saturday 5:30am to 11:300pm, Sundays and holidays
- 7:30am to 10:00pm.
Rodoviário Novo Rio
Rio’s long-distance bus station is a hot,
hectic place, with regular air conditioning
failures and ATMs that are frequently out
of service. It’s huge and can be confusing,
so leave plenty of time to get to your bus.
Note that buying tickets online usually
requires a CPF (Brazilian social security
number), so it often makes sense to use
a travel agent or book a group transfer if
you want to guarantee your seat on a bus
during busy times.
Rio Carnival
Working hours:
Monday to Saturday: 5:00 to midnight
Sunday and holidays: 7:00 to 23:00
During Carnival the metro is 24 hours.
The MetroRio site can assist with journey
planning and is available in English.
#511 (from Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon)
or #512 (from Gávea, Jardim Botânico,
Botofogo) to Urca for the station to take
the cable car up the Sugar Loaf Mountain
(Pão de Açúcar).
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Tucan Travel is an adventure tour operator
with over 28 years’ experience operating
group tours worldwide. With group tours
to South America, Central America, Asia,
Europe and Africa, Tucan Travel specialises
in South America. Tucan Travel has had a
presence on the continent since it began
operating group tours out of Bogota in
1987, arriving in Rio de Janeiro in time for
Carnival even then.
Today, Tucan Travel operates three
different travel styles worldwide. Their
Overland Tours run on purpose-built
expedition vehicles while their Adventure
Tours run on public transport. Both these
travel styles include clean and comfortable
3* hotels. Their Budget Expeditions (1835s) are their closed age range travel style,
designed specifically for younger, budget
conscious travellers.
Tucan Travel’s Rio Carnival packages begin
on the Friday of the Rio Carnival weekend
and finish on the Tuesday. Running for five
days, they include accommodation, buffet
breakfasts and tickets to the Sambadrome
on the Sunday night in either Sector 11 or
Sector 13 depending on the package type.
Throughout the weekend, Tucan Travel
helpdesks, manned by English speaking
members of staff are available to help with
directions, book further excursions and
answer any questions you may have. The
hotels used are the equivalent in comfort
of a 3* hotel and have excellent facilities
from swimming pools and gyms to a/c and
Wi-Fi.
Prices start at £629 with discounts
available if you are booking the Rio
Carnival Package alongside a long group
tour.
Rio Carnival
Rio Carnival
About Tucan Travel
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horizon

Rio Carnival - Tucan Travel

Transcription

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