the roads - Parmigiano Reggiano
Transcription
the roads - Parmigiano Reggiano
the roads of da iRi e s a nd t e R R i toRy province of Bologna Parmigiano Reggiano The first guide dedicated to the dairies under the contribution of making Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese in the province of Bologna. Buying Parmigiano-Reggiano directly from the maker becomes the chance to discover the territory of Modena around the dairy, the real “cradle” of this gastronomic excellence, and to enjoy the tastiness of a traditional and natural product, learning about the unique characteristics of the places that have contributed in making it so special. the roads of Parmigiano-Reggiano the dairies and the territory in the province of Bologna Dedicated to those who are curious and those who enjoy the pleasures of the table, to those passing through for leisure or business, to those who know how to appreciate good things and good food. This guide is a small travelling companion to learn about the constellation of tastes, art, culture and nature that shines in the territory of Modena, from the lands of the lower plain to the Apennine ridge. The Roads of Parmigiano-Reggiano Dairies and territory in the province of Bologna © Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Bologna section © Eccentrico reproduction forbidden Editorial coordination, graphic project, page makeup Eccentrico Texts Francesca Zanetti Translation Janet L. Dubbini Texts from page 15 to page 29 Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Coordination of the pages on the dairies Claudio Guidetti, Federica Rondelli Bologna section of the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Data collection on the dairies Bologna section of the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Photographic credits are given at the end of the volume Printed by Grafiche Callegaro (Padova) Printed in June 2012 Acknowledgements to the Province of Bologna for the collaboration offered by the Services of Agriculture, Culture and Tourism for the editorial material and the illustrations provided, which were taken from “Valley itineraries. Guide to the province of Bologna”, and for distributing the volume. www.provincia.bologna.it/turismo The towns in the province of Bologna where the dairies that make Parmigiano-Reggiano and sell the cheese retail can be found General Index contribution of Giuseppe Alai President of the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese9 contribution of Angelo Romagnoli President of the Bologna section of the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese11 Reading the guide 13 The secrets and the history of Parmigiano-Reggiano 15 Visits to the dairies that make Parmigiano-Reggiano 29 On the west of the river Reno S.Giovanni in Persiceto The west of the river Reno Index of the area The territory The dairies 32 35 52 The town, the itineraries and the tastes 58 Anzola dell’Emilia Bazzano Monteveglio Savigno Castel d’Aiano Gaggio Montano Lizzano in Belvedere Bologna 9 Giuseppe Alai President of the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese There are no doubts that Parmigiano-Reggiano is very popular: in fact, surveys show that it is the most well-known cheese worldwide. However there are aspects connected with this particular cheese which are not always just as known: its features, its artisan making processes, the complexity of a system involving many actors, all equally called on to do an important job and with the great responsibility of making and offering a product whose strong point is its pure genuineness. In the centre of this system, which starts from 3,500 livestock farms, there are almost 400 dairies, distributed in a production district situated between the rivers Po and Reno: this is where the most well-known cheese in the world is made, in places and structures where centuriesold traditions are perpetuated and the dairy skills and their secrets are handed down from generation to generation. However often little is known about these structures, the actions and the activities carried out within them, which are an important presence in the territory for their role both as a work source and in environmental protection. The aim of these pages is to turn on new lights of knowledge on this network of artisan firms, giving readers the opportunity to enter an extraordinary world where everything is made not only with mastery, but also with a natural passion. 11 On the roads of Parmigiano-Reggiano Angelo Romagnoli President of the Bologna Section of the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese The roads of Parmigiano-Reggiano lead to Bologna, on the west of the river Reno, and with Mantua to the east of the river Po, Modena, Reggio Emilia and Parma, they delimit the borders within which ParmigianoReggiano can be made. The nine Bolognese dairies form a small productive reality, nevertheless even in this small reality Parmigiano-Reggiano is made and finds its reason for existence in the strong and indissoluble connection with its territory of origin, with its people, its culture, with the values and traditions of an agriculture that has contributed to make the agroindustrial history of the province of Bologna. Bologna boasts one of the most certified territories in Europe, there are in fact many PDO and PGI products that emphasize and prove the cultural value of an important wine and food tradition. With this guide readers are offered the opportunity to visit “this side of the Reno” to the discovery of the dairies making Parmigiano-Reggiano. Furthermore they are taken all around the Bolognese territory in search of the products of excellence, which the companies bearing, upon initiative of the Province of Bologna, the red seal of the mark DegustiBo promote and enhance. The guide is also an invite not to absent-mindedly go along the roads winding on the Bolognese territory, but to look carefully to discover and appreciate a marvellous land, not only rich in food products, but also in art, history and culture insomuch that the chief town is known as Bologna the erudite. My thanks to the Province of Bologna for its contribution to the realization of the guide, particularly to the Service of Culture and Tourism and the Service of Agriculture for providing part of the material necessary to write the volume and for contributing to its distribution. The Bologna Section of the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 13 Reading the guide The uniqueness and the many qualities of this cheese are closely connected with the culture and the nature of a unique territory. Buying Parmigiano-Reggiano from the maker becomes the chance to discover and rediscover the territory where such a gastronomic excellence is made. The schematic map allows to locate the dairies that make ParmigianoReggiano and sell the cheese retail. It also indicates the sights of cultural, artistic and environmental interest present in the area. The index next to the map refers to more detailed information on the territory and to the charts on the dairies, containing practical informations such as addresses, opening hours and the products sold besides ParmigianoReggiano. The information is updated to June 2011. There is also information on the main events and happenings: gastronomy, recurrences and celebrations, folk feasts and traditions, cultural events; as far as quality Bolognese gastronomy is concerned, the companies adhering to the Project DegustiBO are also indicated. 15 features of an excellence the secrets and the history of Parmigiano-Reggiano 16 17 Place of origin The history of Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO A CONNECTION WHICH CANNOT BE DISREGARDED There is a very strong connection between Parmigiano-Reggiano and its place of origin which cannot be disregarded. Parmigiano-Reggiano derives from its territory and from the mastery of man. Today, just like nine centuries ago, it is still made with the same ingredients (milk, salt, rennet) and the same care and passion, in the same area of origin. The milk is produced and then converted into cheese in the provinces of FROM ITS ORIGIN TO THE PRESENT DAY Parmigiano-Reggiano is one with the territory it derives from. It is the result of a unique and extraordinary journey through nine centuries of history which involves still today the same places and the same technique, to offer an inimitable taste which moves the mind and the heart. Mantua to the east of the river Po NINE CENTURIES OF NOBILITY Parma Reggio Emilia Modena Bologna to the west of the river Reno THE SECRET OF SUCH AN EXCELLENCE This is, in fact, the area where the 3,500 farms where fine milk is produced and the 380 diaries which transform the milk and mature the cheese for a minimum of 12 months up to over two years, checking each wheel until maturation, are concentrated. The origins of Parmigiano-Reggiano date back to the Middle-Ages and are usually set in the Twelfth century. In the Benedictine monasteries, following Saint Benedict’s rule “Ora et Labora”, monks carried out farming and cowbreeding activities to work the land and produce meat and milk. There were large supplies of this raw material, which was so precious but at the same time so easily perishable. As a consequence the need emerged to find a way to produce a cheese with a longer life. So the first “caselli”, the local familiar name for dairies, appeared: thanks to the abundance of streams, large pastures and milk produced by the cattle used in the fields, in this circumscribed area of Emilia they started to produce a hard cheese of large proportions (at the time each whole cheese weighed about 16- 20 kilograms) obtained by processing the milk in large cauldrons. From the start this cheese had an important feature: it had a long life, moreover, the more it matured, the better were its organoleptic properties. There is historical evidence that in the thirteenth century the cheese known as “caseus parmensis”, later called “Parmigiano-Reggiano”, was already widespread and wellknown also outside its area of origin. 1934 TODAY The ways in which Parmigiano-Reggiano is made have changed throughout the centuries. However the ingredients, the places of origin, the care and the skilful ritual acts are still the same. It is the story of how the genuineness of Parmigiano-Reggiano is absolutely guaranteed by precise regulations, which are rigorously self- enforced and observance is strictly controlled. For over seventy years the Consortium has preserved Parmigiano-Reggiano and for almost nine centuries this particular cheese has been loved for its generous taste. 18 19 How is Parmigiano-Reggiano made MAKING Every day the milk from the evening milking is left to rest in large vats until the next morning. In the meantime the fatty part, which is later used to make butter, spontaneously rises to the surface. As soon as the whole milk from the morning milking arrives from the farms, it is poured together with the evening skimmed milk in the typical copper cauldrons which have the shape of an upside down bell. Whey, rich in natural milk enzymes obtained from the previous day’s processing, and natural calf rennet are added. The milk curdles in about ten minutes. MATURING AND EXPERTIZATION The cheese wheels are positioned in rows and rows in the quiet storerooms. Each one of them has taken about 550 litres of milk and constant care of cattlemen and cheese makers. But the work is not over. Left to rest on wooden boards, the cheese slowly dries and the crust which was formed during salting, therefore with no treatments and absolutely edible, takes on a more and more intense straw colour as time goes by. Parmigiano-Reggiano has a long but also slow story, following the natural rhythm of seasons. The minimum maturing period is twelve months, and it is only at that point that it is possible to tell if each wheel actually deserves the name it was impressed with originally. FIRE-BRANDING After the experts of the Consortium have examined the wheels one by one and the Control Authority has carried out its verification, the mark is fire-branded on the wheels which meet the PDO requirements - Protected Designation of Origin. All the marks and the dotted writing are removed from the wheels which do not comply with PDO requirements. This particular moment is one of the most delicate for cheese makers, and the most important for consumers: it is when the product is selected and it is awarded a certificate of guarantee. On the cheese which is placed on the market for consumption as fresh (a word that could sound strange referred to a product which has been already maturing for a year) parallel lines are cut so it can be immediately recognized by consumers. This is a second class Parmigiano-Reggiano known as “Mezzano”. At 18 months, upon voluntary request, the mark “Extra” or “Export” can be branded on the wheels prior to a further control. Once the curd is formed, it is broken into tiny granules using a very old tool called “spino”. The curd is then cooked at the temperature of 55 degrees centigrade and at the end of this process the granules fall to the bottom of the cauldron, aggregating into one single mass. After about fifty minutes, the cheese mass is extracted by the cheese maker with skilful movements, it is cut into two sections, wrapped in a cloth and put in a cheese mould which will give it its cylindrical shape. With the application of a casein plate, each whole cheese is given a unique and progressive registration number which is just like an identity card. After a few hours, with a special branding band, each wheel is impressed with the month and the year it was made, the dairy’s registration number and the unmistakable dotted inscription all around the circumference. Within a few days the wheels are immersed in a water and salt saturated solution. In this way the cheese is salted by absorption. Salting takes almost twenty days, after which the production cycle finishes and maturation starts, a just as fascinating stage. 20 21 Nutritional information Parmigiano-Reggiano is a hard granular cheese with a long maturing period. It contains only 30% water and over 70% nourishments: this is the reason why this cheese is so rich in proteins, vitamins and minerals. Exceptionally good, easily digestible, totally natural: Parmigiano-Reggiano never loses an opportunity to excel Typical values per 100g of Parmigiano-Reggiano WATER TOTAL PROTEINS FAT ENERGY VALUE SODIUM CHLORIDE CALCIUM PHOSPHOROUS SODIUM POTASSIUM MAGNESIUM ZINC VITAMIN A VITAMIN B1 VITAMIN B2 VITAMIN B6 VITAMIN B12 VITAMIN PP PANTOTHENIC ACID CHOLINE BIOTIN 30,8g 33,0 g 28,4g 392 kcal 1,39 g 1160mg 680mg 650mg 100mg 43mg 4mg 270 mcg 34 mcg 370 mcg 110 mcg 4,2 mcg 55 mcg 32 mcg 40mg 23mcg milk. These compounds are formed during the long maturing period and determine the organoleptic characteristics of the cheese, facilitating its digestion. Since Parmigiano-Reggiano is lactose free, its taste and energy supply can be benefited also by those who suffer from lactose intolerance. It takes 16 litres of fine milk from the place of origin to make one kilogram of Parmigiano-Reggiano. A nutritional charge of proteins, vitamins, phosphorous and calcium which is concentrated in the texture, throughout both the making and the long maturing period of the cheese. Natural aging makes Parmigiano-Reggiano easy to digest and develops a complexity of extraordinary aromas and tastes. BENEFICIAL FOR ALL AGES Parmigiano-Reggiano is the perfect ally for your health and your psychophysical well-being. Rich in nourishments, it is essential for children’s growth, for teenagers’ and elderly people’s health and provides ready to use energy for those who practice sports. Since the Eighties Parmigiano-Reggiano is believed to have a bifidogenic factor which makes it particularly suited for new born babies’ diets. In fact, its prebiotic effects, which feed probiotic bacteria, modulate intestinal flora and the intestinal flora itself, made up of a complex ecosystem partly depending on the nourishing substances introduced with the diet, plays an important role on some metabolic functions and on resistance to bacterial infections. A LONG MATURING WHICH GIVES FLAVOUR AND DIGESTIBILITY SLIVERS OF FLAVOUR AND HEALTH IN A BALANCED DIET Parmigiano-Reggiano is a resource we are offered by nature and by man’s work to reconcile health and taste within a balanced diet. It is not just delicious, it is also healthy and nourishing, the result of a long production tradition and of a strong connection with its territory of origin, which have made it one of the symbols of the “Made in Italy”. The cheese is made from partially skimmed milk; this lipid component of Parmigiano-Reggiano is nutritionally precious in terms of the ready to use energy provided by its free fraction. Parmigiano-Reggiano is particularly rich in calcium, very biavailable, and is an important source of phosphorous: 50 g can provide 50% of an adult’s recommended daily intake (RDI). Parmigiano-Reggiano is extremely rich in peptides and in free amino acids, therefore easily assimilated, deriving from a slow conversion of casein, a protein from Maturing is essential for Parmigiano-Reggiano to develop its aromas and texture. According to specification, the cheese can be called Parmigiano-Reggiano only after it has matured at least twelve months. Cheese makers and experts from the Consortium say that the cheese must mature for two Summers, in other words it must undergo two years of enzymatic transformations that change its texture and that in summer, thanks to the heat, are more intense. Such transformations, due to the enzymes released by lactic bacteria, consist mainly in the breakdown of the protein chain of the cheese. The proteins of cheese (i.e. caseins) are broken down into many small segments, until amino acids, the fundamental bricks, are partially released. This is the reason why Parmigiano-Reggiano is more digestible than other cheeses. Fats undergo similar transformations and they too become more easily absorbable. It is this molecular variety that determines the richness of aromas and smells which make Parmigiano-Reggiano unique and inimitable. Such complexity is reached absolutely naturally, with no addition of additives that could alter or modify the raw material: milk. By undergoing biological maturing processes, Parmigiano-Reggiano reaches its peak of fragrance and of typical organoleptic properties in the maturing period ranging from 24 to 36 months. Beyond this period, the protein breakdown processes can make the texture more and more granular, almost chalky and highly soluble; the smells tend to fade and fats maturation can make the cheese almost sharp. 22 23 Guide for buyers THE SAFEGUARDING CONSORTIUM DE SIGNATIO N OF ORIGI N TO PRESERVE TYPICALNESS The Consortium brings together all the dairies which make Parmigiano-Reggiano. It is officially in charge of putting the identifying marks on the cheese wheels certified by a third Control Authority, in compliance with the specification of PDO (Protected Designation of Origin). It is in charge also of making sure that the marks are used correctly and of protecting the cheese against imitations. Furthermore, the Consortium aims at spreading and promoting knowledge and consumption of Parmigiano-Reggiano and at perfecting and improving its quality in order to preserve its peculiar features. OTECTED PR protein breakdown processes carried out by enzymes. Therefore the presence of tyrosine crystals is no doubt an empirical sign - which can be verified from everyone’s experience - of a good maturing of ParmigianoReggiano. • What are those tiny granules you feel under your teeth when eating a piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano? They are crystals of a particular amino acid, i.e. tyrosine, that, because of its molecular conformation, when it is in free and in concentrated form tends to crystallize. This amino acid is released amongst others during the • TYROSINE CRYSTALS, VALUABLE SIGNS OF A GOOD MATURING PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO PDO PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO IS A PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN CHEESE This means that, for its peculiarities and for its connection with its place of origin, it is guaranteed by a set of EU regulations aiming at safeguarding both consumers and cheese makers. Parmigiano-Reggiano is a totally natural cheese, famous worldwide as the “King of cheeses” because of its making method and of its nutritional and organoleptic properties. Its making is regulated by strict production standards, registered with the EU competent bodies. For this reason the mark Parmigiano-Reggiano can be branded exclusively on a cheese that: IT IS ITS NATURALNESS THAT CHARACTERIZES PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO FROM OTHER HARD CHEESES Parmigiano-Reggiano is a hard cheese, but with peculiar features which make it different and unique compared with other hard cheeses. Such features are basically due to the milking cows’ diet and are the result of precise choices made by the producers belonging to the Consortium. In fact, in the second post war period - when agriculture was undergoing profound production changes - producers decided to set some rules to preserve the traditional aspects of milk and cheese making connected with Parmigiano-Reggiano. Since the very first Feeding Regulation for cows in1957 it was decided to feed milking cows on local forages, conserved according to the traditional method of desiccation (i.e. haymaking), and to forbid the use of fermented forages, such as maize silages. Therefore Parmigiano-Reggiano is made using a milk that has its own microbiological balance and no recourse to additives is necessary. That is why we speak about the naturalness of Parmigiano-Reggiano. In fact, its microbiologic base, typical of the area of origin, is constituted by the lactic bacteria that are naturally present in milk and their development and activity must be favoured during dairy transformation. This is the reason why Parmigiano-Reggiano is real synthesis between nature and skill. • has been made and processed exclusively in the area of origin • has been made according to old traditional artisan methods, defined by strict regulations (Product specification, European Regulation EEC 2081/92 and recognition of Commission Regulation EC 1107/96 replaced by Regulation EC 510/06), which establish precise making methods (Production Standard), a controlled diet for the milking cows (Feeding regulation for dairy cows) and rules for qualitative selection and marking of the cheese wheels (Marking regulation). 24 25 The selection identifies three categories of cheese: BRANDS AND MARKS Since Parmigiano-Reggiano is a Protected Designation of Origin product (PDO), only the cheese wheels that have been made according to the Production specification can be actually called Parmigiano-Reggiano and can have the identifying marks and brands impressed on them. These marks and brands, which identify and characterize the cheese as a PDO product, are distinguished in marks of origin and marks of selection. THE MARKS OF ORIGIN, which are impressed when the cheese is first made, are: THE BRANDS OF ORIGIN (IMPRESSED WITH A BRANDING BAND) all around the lateral surface of the wheel with: • the dotted writing PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO • the writings DOP (PDO) and CONSORZIO TUTELA (THE SAFEGUARDING CONSORTIUM) • the dairy’s registration number • the month and year of production THE CASEIN PLATE applied on the cheese wheel with: • the writing CFPR (Consorzio Formaggio Parmigiano-Reggiano) • the identifying alphanumeric code of each single wheel • the Datamatrix label for optical reading THE MARK OF SELECTION After a maturing period of about 12 months all the wheels produced undergo a selection (expertization). Once the experts from the Consortium have examined the wheels and the PDO authority has released its certification, the Consortium impresses the mark of selection indelibly on the wheels. In fact, the Consortium has the Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO marks, and the Consortium is responsible for classifying the cheese wheels according to the different categories during the selection for PDO compliance and for controlling that the marks are used correctly. The first category: Parmigiano-Reggiano, that is the cheese with a hard texture and the features complying with the specification (first grade-zero-one), suitable to undergo the long maturing to be appreciated both in direct consumption as table cheese and in gastronomic preparations as grated cheese. On the wheels the marks of origin (the dotted writing and the casein plate) are impressed and the oval mark is fire-branded. The second category: Parmigiano-Reggiano Mezzano, (medium grade), that is the cheese that has some defects of slight or medium entity in its texture and/ or in the rind, which however do not alter the typical organoleptic properties of the product. Direct consumption as table cheese is suggested. The wheels are still impressed with the oval fire-branded mark of selection “Parmigiano-Reggiano”, however, to distinguish them from the first selection ones, parallel lines are indelibly cut in the lateral surface of the wheels. The third category: defined “reject”, that is the cheese that, having considerable defects, does not meet the “Parmigiano-Reggiano” specification requirements. These wheels are downgraded by removing the marks of origin by milling the rind (some millimetres of rind are removed). So this cheese has no reference to PDO. A FURTHER SELECTION: THE MARKS “EXTRA” AND “EXPORT” Upon voluntary request of the owner of a wheel that has already qualified as ParmigianoReggiano and that has been maturing for at least 18 months, the Consortium carries out a further expertization. On the wheels that are “selected” the mark EXTRA or EXPORT is impressed, offering both dealers and consumers a further indication of the quality of the cheese. These marks can be reproduced also on the packaging containing the cheese. THE MARKS ON PRE-PACKED PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO WHEEL AND WEDGE The wheel and wedge with the writing PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO on a black background is the selling trademark and the compulsory identification and recognition reference of pre-packed Parmigiano-Reggiano. MEZZANO The pre-packed portions from the medium grade “Mezzano” wheels can be distinguished by the trademark which, besides the logo with the wheel and the wedge, has also the writing “MEZZANO” on a green strip. EXTRA and EXPORT For the pre-packed portions of cheese from the wheels that have qualified as EXTRA or EXPORT, below the logo with the wheel and the wedge there is a gold colour strip with the writings extra or export. 26 27 THE STAMPS THREE SEASONINGS, THREE VARIATIONS OF TASTES, AROMAS AND SMELLS The long period of maturing imparts Parmigiano-Reggiano extraordinary features which differ according to the length of the maturing period itself. For this reason a system of coloured stamps was introduce to assist consumers in the choice of the product. Starting from 2007, for transparency and information for consumers, three coloured stamps have been introduced to identify the different maturing periods of Parmigiano-Reggiano. The red stamp: for the cheese with over 18 month maturing Rather distinct milk base, with vegetable notes such as grass, boiled vegetables and, sometimes, flowers and fruit. Matching: ideal served in slivers in salads or diced for aperitifs, preferably paired with dry white wines and matched with fresh fruit such as pears and green apples. The silver stamp: for the cheese with over 22 month maturing The aromas are more intense, notes of melted butter and fresh fruit can be appreciated, citrus fruits and hints of dried fruit can be detected. The cheese reaches a balance of sweet and sharp, and it is perfectly soluble, friable and granular. Matching: perfect with well structured red wines. Excellent served in “petals” in fruit salads dressed with traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena or Reggio Emilia. Ideal matched with any dried fruit, superb with plums and figs. The gold stamp: for the cheese with over 30 month maturing (extra-strong) This cheese, the richest in nutritional value, is drier, more friable and granular. The taste is stronger and the aromas are more complex. The notes of spices and dried fruit are predominant. Matching: with both full-bodied, well structured red wines and white passiti or white meditation wines. Matching with honey is recommended, pairing with traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena or Reggio Emilia is perfect. Cutting and preserving HOW TO CUT PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO THE ALMOND SHAPED KNIFE To cut Parmigiano-Reggiano you must use the peculiar tool. It is the typical knife with a short and sharp blade with the shape of an almond. So the cheese wheel is not actually cut but opened, to keep the texture and natural granulosity intact. HOW TO OPEN THE CHEESE WHEEL Using the tip of the almond shaped knife a line is traced dividing the wheel in half, along the diameter of both the two flat faces and continuing along the lateral surfaces. Along this line the rind is inserted with the knife penetrating here and there for a few centimeters: at the two extremities of the diameter of one of the faces, halfway down the lateral surface, two almond shaped knives are plunged in vigorously. In this way, with the knives working as wedges, the strength used allows the wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano to be opened in two perfect halves. This procedure requires experience and attention because the wheel opens perfectly in half only if the internal structure of the cheese has been able to oppose the same resistance on both the halves. Also the following cuts, such as portioning, must be carried out according to this same method. So, one half is then divided into two identical parts, which are then divided in two other identical parts. In this way the pieces of Parmigiano-Reggiano obtained from the wheel have the same proportions of texture and rind. HOW TO PRESERVE PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO Because of its structure and its low content of water, Parmigiano-Reggiano is one of the best long life cheeses. And its long life is actually the peculiar feature which has contributed to its reputation throughout the centuries. HOW TO PRESERVE VACUUM PACKED PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO Vacuum packed Parmigiano-Reggiano can be kept in the fridge at a temperature between 4 and 8 degrees centigrade. It is important to make sure that the packaging is sealed and intact, and that the cheese is not exposed to air. The cold chain must be maintained so that the organoleptic properties of the cheese are not altered. HOW TO PRESERVE PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO FRESHLY CUT OR ONCE THE VACUUM PACK HAS BEEN OPENED When you buy a piece of freshly cut Parmigiano-Reggiano or once you have opened the vacuum pack, the cheese must be kept in the fridge at a temperature between 4 and 8 degrees centigrade, taking care of replacing the original pack with appropriate containers. Parmigiano-Reggiano preserves intact its organoleptic properties if it is stored: • at the right level of humidity (the cheese tends to dry in a ventilated fridge) • separately from other food (the fatty part of the cheese tends to absorb the smells in the fridge) Therefore the use of glass or plastic containers is recommended. Another practical solution is to wrap Parmigiano-Reggiano in canvas bags for alimentary use. In this way the cheese can be stored a long time, always remembering to check from time to time that maintaining conditions are not altered. The cheese should never be frozen. 28 29 A postage stamp dedicated to Parmigiano-Reggiano Visits to the dairies of Parmigiano-Reggiano You have to see to know Undisputed symbol of the Italian excellence and of the national agriculture and food sector appreciated worldwide. This is the reason why Poste Italiane (the Italian Postal Service) dedicated one of the four new postage stamps of the series “Made in Italy” to Parmigiano-Reggiano. The other three stamps are dedicated to other three PDO cheeses: Gorgonzola cheese, Buffalo mozzarella from Campania and Ragusano cheese. On 25th March 2011 the Philatelic office of Poste Italiane in Reggio Emilia (the issuing town) and some philatelic offices in Parma issued the stamps. In addition, they released a postcard and a philatelic card dedicated to Parmigiano-Reggiano and the presentation brochure with the text written by the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Furthermore Poste Italiane dedicated a special philatelic cancellation to the stamp and the postcards. The issuing of the stamp, that will be forever in the history of philately, is a prestigious way to promote Parmigiano-Reggiano, unanimously considered one of the most popular Italian products in the world and amongst the most representative of “Made in Italy”. The issuing of this special postage stamp is also a significant celebration of the one hundred and fiftieth anniversary of Italian unification, enhancing the uniqueness and the value of the national high quality products. The Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano offers the opportunity to make guided visits to the dairies in the province of Bologna to see the cheese makers at work, repeating the antique actions of milk processing. Visitors will be led to the discovery of a true “living myth”, from its birth, which happens only once a day, to the long and slow maturing in the maturing store rooms. Guided visits are free and held from Monday to Friday. Visits start by 8.30 am and take about two hours. Visitors are always accompanied by a representative of the Consortium. For further information you can contact: telephone 059.208630 fax 059.208635 email: [email protected] For the production provinces of Modena, Mantua, Parma and Reggio Emilia visit the website: www.parmigiano-reggiano.it traditions, nature and culture on the west of the river Reno from the plain to the Apennines to discover the shades of a naturally rich and generous land The hills around Bologna There are only few things capable of reminding you of colours, emotions and feelings of a territory: the haze, the smell of the plain and the warmth of the soil. Parmigiano-Reggiano is one of those, since it holds the qualities of a rich dish concentrated in a sliver of taste. Vito Vito Stefano Bicocchi, alias Vito, has been a protagonist of Italian comedy on TV and at the theatre since the eighties. He acted in films by Federico Fellini, Roberto Faenza, Ligabue and Alessandro Benvenuti. His acting career is connected with the poetics of the Lower plain, la Bassa, and inspired by the works of Zavattini, Fellini, Guareschi. He was awarded the Coltellino d’Oro 2009 by the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Rive the territory 35 the territory 34 Index Territories and Dairies r RE NO The Territory The dairy retailers Mo tor w ay A1 3 Crevalcore Sant’Agata Bolognese 3552 San Giovanni in Persiceto 1 2 Sala Bolognese torw p.52 3511 Coop. Zootecnica Bazzanese p.52 1 Calderara di Reno 3 4 5 Bologna 3511 Crespellano 3618 Castello di Serravalle Casalecchio di Reno 8 9 Savigno 18 Monte San Pietro 10 11 Marzabotto Sasso Marconi 16 3619 3627 Mo torw Zola Predosa 6 7 Monteveglio Vergato Castel d’Aiano 3617 3552 Cas. Sant’Angelop.53 3 Anzola before Emilia 3617 Cas. Soc. Canevaccia p.53 3618 Cas. Monteveglio p.54 3619 Case Bortolani p.54 3623 Cas. Soc. di Querciola p.55 3624 Cas. Soc. Fior di Latte p.55 3627 Pieve di Roffeno p.56 ay A 14 and the Crespellani Museum p.40 Gnoc frèt! (fried dough) p.41 5 Bazzano Slow City p.41 6 Monteveglio Abbey p.42 7 Monteveglio Abbey Regional Park p.42 8 The Ecomuseum p.43 9 Zappolino: the battle p.44 The wines of the Hills around Bologna p.44 10 Around Savigno p.45 11 Truffle festival p.45 12 Caves, water and history p.46 Mountain delight: the borlengop.47 Trekking by train p.47 13 Along the Gothic Line p.48 p.48 p.49 16 Marzabotto: a page in history 3623 Porretta Terme 17 that should never be forgotten p.50 17 Wellness and relax 15 Granaglione and Dardagna falls 15 Corno alle Scale Regional Park 3624 Lizzano in Belvedere The recipe for tortellinip.40 14 Our Lady of the Maple Tree 13 14 p.38 Gaggio Montano p.36 4 The Fortress of Bentivoglio Anzola dell’Emilia Bazzano and the Persiceto Carnival 2 San Giovanni in Persiceto Museums p.37 ay A 12 2495 Casearia di Sant’Anna Divine tortellinop.39 2495 Mo 1 Bertoldo, Bertoldino LEGEND arts - culture nature - environment - activities curiosities at Porretta Thermal Baths p.50 18 Villa Griffone and the Marconi Museum p.51 37 Traditions, nature and culture on the west of the river Reno From the plain to the Apennines to discover the shades of a naturally rich and generous land The amusing colours of Carnival, evenings of music under the stars, legends narrated by sanctuaries, churches and abbeys; excellent products of an industrious plain, a gentle and fascinating landscape offering art and flavour suggestions; opportunities to learn and to reflect on the history of the twentieth century, or to go into raptures over the brilliant work of a great inventor. And also thermal well-being, PDO bubblies, traditional folk festivals, charming passages and landscapes set in places where the pace of life is more on a human scale. These are only a few of the many enthralling suggestions with which the Bolognese territory seduces its visitors all year round. by the refined court’s food. The contrast between the simple life of peasants and the affected and vain life of courtiers emerges. But King Alboin regretted not having understood Bertoldo’s needs and wrote for him a heartfelt epitaph in gold characters. Bertoldo is the emblem of those peasant wits often sharpened by necessity. With his ramshackle and nice family, he belongs to an important literary genre in Italian and European culture, the one defined carnivalesque, rich in references to folk themes and to rural dimension, particularly to carnival rite. And the carnival in San Giovanni boasts a strong and more than a hundred year old tradition, besides an element which makes it unique: the allegorical floats. On the first Sunday of carnival the allegorical floats parade the town centre and when they reach the main square they perform the Spèll or Spillo, a very spectacular transformation of the coloured architectures of the floats to reveal the meaning of the allegory, kept secret until that moment. The floats are made with mastery and great effort by the carnival companies from Persiceto and on the second Sunday of carnival the judges decree the winners, who are awarded a drape portraying Bertoldo and Bertoldino. INFORMATION Bologna > San Giovanni in Persiceto San Giovanni in Persiceto Town Hall corso Italia, 70 tel. 051.6812701 www.carnevalepersiceto.it Bertoldo, Bertoldino and the Persiceto Carnival Sacred art, archaeology and environment, sky and earth Bertoldo is the undisputed star of the Historical Persiceto Carnival. He is the ingenious peasant born, together with his wife Marcolfa and his son Bertoldino, from the lively imagination of a storyteller and playwright from Persiceto, Giulio Cesare Croce (San Giovanni in Persiceto, 1550 - Bologna,1609). Thanks to his very sharp astuteness, Bertoldo became the advisor of King Alboin. Soon life at court revealed itself harmful to the good peasant, insomuch that, without having the possibility of eating turnips and beans, he died poisoned The Environmental Archaeological Museum retraces the history of the territory through a large number of archaeological findings, from the Roman age to the Renaissance. Set up inside the nineteenth century Porta Garibaldi, which maintains the features of a former district prison unchanged, the museum concretely reconstructs the evolution of the life styles and of the relationship man-environment, analysing the ways in which the territory was occupied, the types of dwellings, the objects of daily use, the economy and the production activities, the diet and the clothes. The Sacred Art Museum is housed in the eighteenth century rectory adjacent to the Collegiate Church of Saint John the Baptist in Piazza del Popolo. It collects fifty paintings by the great Bolognese school of the sixteenth - nineteenth centuries and over forty liturgical items, including seventeenth century silverware, antique miniated books and sacred vestments. While the Sky and Earth Museum focuses on science and nature and is constituted by different the territory 36 the territory 39 the territory 38 ses; the wooden huts were given their quadrangular plant by the banks bounding them. The terramare were concentrated in the centre- west of Emilia and in the transpadane area stretching between the provinces of Verona and Cremona during a period between what archaeologists call the Middle Bronze Age and the Recent Bronze Age, from the sixteenth to the thirteenth century B.C.. The excavations gave back crockery, realities: the astronomical section is one of the most relevant in Italy, it houses an observatory and it is the third biggest planetarium in the country; “Ulisse Aldrovandi” botanical gardens include over three hundred spontaneous species from the region; La Bora, an area of ecological rebalancing rich in flora and fauna with equipped itineraries, the Insect Laboratory, a sort of living museum, and “Technoscience”, the History and Didactics of the Physics Laboratory. The Earth and Sky museum is “diffuse” across the territory of the municipalities adhering to the Association “Terre d’acqua”, which constantly organises interesting initiatives like laboratories for children and adults and evening projections at the Planetarium. INFORMATION Bologna > San Giovanni in Persiceto The Environmental Archaeological Museum, c.so Italia, 163 tel. 051.6871757 www.museoarcheologicoambientale.it The Earth and Sky museum, vicolo Baciadonne, 1 tel. 051.827067 www.museocieloeterra.org The Sacred Art Museum, piazza del Popolo 22, tel. 051.821254 www.comunepersiceto.it Anzola before Emilia: the terramare settlements Starting from the second half of the nineteenth century, agricultural exploitation of the fertile lands that contained a rc h a e o l og i c a l deposits dating back to the Bronze Age brought to light important findings, which testify the presence of very ancient villages. These settlements were called terramare, according to the definition the local peasants used for the fertile soil that gave back the findings. They were built near waterways for defensive purpo- decorated pottery pitchers and jugs, bronze brooches and daggers, carved bone decorations and objects: due to their importance, these findings were decisive for the development of archaeology. INFORMATION Bologna > Anzola Emilia www.anzolaprimadellemilia.it Divine tortellino Tortellini, just as good as it is famous, is a dish loved and imitated all around the world and one of the main prides of Bolognese and Modenese gastronomic tradition. The paternity of the original recipe is rather disputed and controversial. It is now a fact that the tortellino was created in the image and likeness of Venus’ divine navel, to preserve the originality of such a delight, the Confraternity of the Tortellino and the Italian Academy of Cooking registered the recipe for the filling of tortellini with the Chamber of Commerce, Industry, Crafts and Agriculture of Bologna. The fine pastry made with flour and eggs is matched with a filling of pork loin, cured ham, mortadella of Bologna, Parmigiano-Reggiano, eggs and nutmeg. The skilful and patient gestures of the sfogline, the women who make tortellini and “close” these small jewels by hand, one by one, have remained the same over the centuries. According to the Bolognese tradition, tortellini must be cooked and eaten rigorously in a tasty capon or hen broth, not to dilute their aroma and fragrance. 41 The recipe for tortellini Ingredients 3 eggs, 300 gr flour, 300 gr pork loin, 300 gr cured ham, 300 gr mortadella of Bologna, 450 gr 30 month old Parmigiano-Reggiano, salt, pepper, nutmeg as required. Leave the pork loin to rest with salt, pepper, rosemary and garlic for two days. Then cook it with a little butter on a low flame. Mince the loin together with the other ingredients and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Knead and roll out the dough, leave it to dry and then cut it into squares using the special pastry wheel (rotellina): place a small quantity of filling on each square, fold it and close it in the shape of a “navel”. Prepare the meat broth that must be cooked on a low flame for four hours. Cook the tortellini in the boiling broth, as soon as they come to the surface turn off the gas and serve the tortellini nice and warm in their broth with a sprinkling of Parmigiano-Reggiano. The Fortress of Bentivoglio and the Crespellani Museum The fascinating mass of the Fortess of Bentivoglio overlooks the historic centre from a hill top. The fortress was built presumably around the year one thousand as a protection against the barbarian assaults that scourged the Po area at the time. It was given in concession to the father of Matilda of Canossa, Boniface, in 1038. In the thirteenth century it was besieged twice by the people of Bologna, who conquered it in 1247, razed it to the ground and took its stones to Monteveglio and used them to build other edifices. Reconstructed by the Este in the fourteenth century, its present look is the result of transformations made during the Renaissance when Messer Zoane turned the castle into a delight for a holiday resort out of town: Giovanni Il Bentivoglio ruled Bologna from 1463 to 1506 and to this day his initials “Ms Zo” can still be seen among the coat of arms painted in tempera on the walls of the rooms on the ground floor, while in the sala dei Ghepardi (the cheetah room) the motto Per amore tuto ben volgo soferire (I am willing to suffer for love) can be read. In these same halls the poet Ugo Foscolo was imprisoned in 1799. Today the Fortress houses the “Arsenio Crespellani” Civic Museum, dedicated to the memory of the archaeologist who promoted several excavation campaigns in the area: the collections include objects dating back to the Bronze and the Iron Ages, which were discovered in the necropolises in the area, findings dating back to the Roman times and to the Early Middle Ages, as well as two collections of pottery and some arms and uniforms of the Risorgimento. INFORMATION Bologna> Zola Predosa > Bazzano via Contessa Matilde, 10 tel. 051.836442 www.roccadeibentivoglio.it [email protected] the territory the territory 40 Gnoc frèt (fried dough)! The gnocco fritto (fried dough) is a typical recipe of the Emilian gastronomic tradition. It is of Lombard origin and it can be found practically everywhere in the region, although with different names: in Parma they call it torta fritta, in Modena and Reggio gnocco fritto, in Piacenza chisulèn, in Ferrara pinzino... Even in the territory around Bologna it is called gnocco in the Samoggia valley, but just outside the area it takes on the name crescentina, although in the modenese mountain this is the name of another recipe of tradition, that of tigelle... But the confusion is only linguistic, since the recipe is unquestionably good. This is the recipe to serve 4: 250 gr flour, 25 gr butter or lard, 1 sachet brewer’s yeast, milk as required, salt, lard or frying oil. Mix the flour with the brewer’s yeast and some salt, knead with some milk and melted butter (or lard, as the tradition suggests). Using a rolling pin roll out the dough into a half centimeter thickness. Cut the pastry into rhombs with a side length of 5cm, fry the rhombs, a few at a time, in very hot lard or oil. When the gnocco is puffy and golden brown put it onto blotting paper and serve warm. Fill as to liking with cured meats or soft cheese. True connoisseurs know how good the gnocco fritto left over from the night before is dipped in a nice cup of white coffee for breakfast. For a sweet ending, the gnocco fritto is particularly tasty with cherry or sour cherry jam: after all Bazzano is situated along the Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori - Città Castelli e Ciliegi (the Road of wines and tastes - towns, castles and cherry trees), where the excellent Anellone cherry is produced. INFORMATION www.cittacastelliciliegi.it It is more fun if you do it slowly In 2007 Bazzano joined Cittaslow, the International movement of the towns willing to promote good life. The movement applies the concepts of ecology and quality of life that SlowFood has already translated into its ecogastronomy. In line with these values, the town does its best to enhance local qualities and traditions to the benefit of the locals and visitors. The sectors involved are traditional agriculture, but also all the other fields of “skills”, from local crafts and typical gastronomy to be preserved to the safeguard and enhancement of the historic, artistic and natural heritage. At the centre of these main points of Cittaslow movement there is man: this is the reason why it is necessary to rediscover paces of life that are more suitable to his nature, his human and social dimension and maybe to slow down with respect to the rush to globalization at any price and recover that universe of values that conciliate the old generations with the new ones, retrieve the territorial roots that determine the uniqueness of every place. www.cittaslow.net 43 The Abbey and the medieval village There are also many routes to discover the territory: a map is available online at www.parcoabbazia.it with all the itineraries well indicated, a detailed explanation of the routes and information about hospitality in the territory and about all the interesting activities organised by the park’s staff. INFORMATION Bologna> Bazzano > Monteveglio www.parcoabbazia.it San Teodoro Park Centre via Abbazia, 28 tel. 051-6701044 [email protected] Visitors Centre of Monteveglio castle via San Rocco, 2 The village of Monteveglio, ancient and impregnable stronghold of Countess Matilda, is spectacularly perched on a hill overlooking the Samoggia valley. Historically the fortified nucleus was towered above by the castle of which the arched door marking the entrance to the village and a strong tower with swallow-tailed merlons, from where there is an enchanting view of the gentle surrounding landscape, remain. The Great Countess also founded the important monastic complex dating back to the eleventh century. While Our Lady of the Assumption Abbey is of even more ancient origin, as the apse and the crypt testify. On the wall on the left of the altar there is the plaque reminding visitors of a miraculous event. It was the night between 24th and 25th March 1527, the feast of the Annunciation of Mary: the dreadful Lansquenets were besieging Monteveglio when a providential and a very heavy snowstorm raged. The besiegers dispersed and the village and the Abbey were saved. There are two other villages out of time to visit in the surroundings: Montebudello, composed of two distinct nucleuses and situated in a panoramic position, and Oliveto, ancient land of olive trees where every year the cheerful Funerale della Saracca (the funeral of the salted fish) is celebrated. The funeral is a very popular folk festival of ancient Spanish origin with which people greeted the end of a shortage period in which they ate only saracche, a poor and cheap food. INFORMATION Bologna> Bazzano > Monteveglio For guided visits to the Church and the Abbey, contact the Community “I Fratelli di San Francesco”, tel. 051.6707931 www.saracca.it,the festival takes place on the 2° Sunday of March Vineyards, hills and cherry trees in the Abbey Park The territory surrounding Monteveglio is protected by a Regional Park for its beauty and peculiarity: the hilly landscape is a harmonious succession of vineyards (we are in the heart of the area where the PDO wines of the hills around Bologna are made), cultivated lands and orchards that explode with beauty during spring blossom time, wo- ody valleys and torrents; the gentleness of the hills is interrupted by sudden gullies making the park all the more interesting from a naturalistic and geological point of view. A rich variety of mammals and birds live in the park. Next to the natural environments there is the extraordinary historical testimony of the villages, the abbey and the castles. The Ecomuseum illustrates hills, wine and... In the background of the Hill and Wine Ecomuseum there is the ancient medieval village of Castello di Serravalle, quietly perched on the hills. The museum is housed in the thirteenth century Casa del Capitano (the house that used to belong to the Captain of the Mountain). Several themes are presented in the museum halls, each one of them corresponds to an itinerary outside, allowing visitors to explore and to get to know for themselves the territory of the hills around Bologna, with its customs, its history and its tastes. By following the four different colours of the signposting, visitors go along a circular itinerary in the municipal territory of Castello di Serravalle. The itinerary covers thirty-two points of interest with different themes. History, archaeology, nature, landscape, agriculture, so- ciety and folklore reveal themselves along an itinerary that can be covered by car, by bicycle or on foot, to the discovery of spots whose beauty has been almost forgotten. Among the thirty-two points there is for example the medieval vegetable garden, organized like a 1300 vegetable garden, full of fruits and vegetables, flower beds and aromatic plants: it is a hortus conclusus, separate from the surrounding natural environment and divided into Giardino delle Delizie (with flowers and antique roses), Orto dei Semplici (with aromatic plants and medicinal herbs) and Verziere (with edible vegetables). Visitors should not miss the wine tastings under the stars, the walks and the concerts in the vineyards, the guided visits with thematic laboratories organised by the Ecomuseum. INFORMATION Bologna> Bazzano > Castello di Serravalle Town Hall tel. 051.6710711 Municipal Library tel. 051.6710728 www.ecomuseoserravalle.it the territory the territory 42 45 Zappolino, the battle and a singular hostage In 1325 the village of Zappolino was the scene of a battle so intense and so violent that the waters of the torrent Samoggia became blood red. In the momentous battle the inhabitants of Modena were lined up against the inhabitants of Bologna, the Ghibelline faction, which supported the Emperor, on one side and the Guelph faction, which took sides with the Pope, on the other. Thousands of foot soldiers and of mounted soldiers fought to the death. The battle was largely won by the inhabitants of Modena that, thanks to their overwhelming chivalry, got the better of the Bolognese troops, formed mostly by peasants. The battle of Zappolino had really considerable dimensions for the time and, notwithstanding the tragic nature of the events, it inspired the Modenese poet Alessandro Tassoni who, in the seventeenth century, described with a heroicomic tone the deeds connected with the “kidnapping” of a well bucket that the inhabitants of Modena mockingly stole from the inhabitants of Bologna and that to this day is still jealously kept in the Ghirlandina, the bell tower in Modena… www.zappolino.it PDO excellences: the wines of the hills around Bologna (Colli Bolognesi) The uniqueness of the territory and the passion of the producers: these are the secrets behind every bottle of Colli Bolognesi PDO wine. The specification regulates PDO vine growing and wine producing in the hilly territory stretching between the Reno and the Samoggia: this is where Pinot Bianco, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Barbera are made, but the most known and appreciated of the Colli Bolognesi is undobtedly Pignoletto Classico. It is considered the King of the Colli Bolognesi and it is obtained from autochthonous vineyards of ancient origin; Pliny the Elder in the first century A.D. stated that a certain wine called Pino Lieto was not sweet enough to be good: but it is a well-known fact that Romans appreciated very sweet wines. While today Pignoletto is appreciated precisely for its freshness and its dry, intense and fruity flavour: still or sparkling, it is characterized by hints of hawthorn flowers and by its typical straw colour. It matches perfectly with dishes from the Bolognese tradition, from tortellini in broth to mortadella. INFORMATION www.collibolognesi.it Around Savigno, among ancient mills, oratories and brooks The beautiful hills surrounding the built-up area of Savigno are the ideal setting for excursions on foot, by mountain bike or on horse back, in a naturalistic context, harmonious and rich in historic and cultural aspects. In the past there used to be many water mills in these valleys rich in water, crossed by torrents and brooks with a good flow rate: one of them, the seventeenth century Mulino del Dottore in Rodiano, is still working and open to the public on Sunday afternoon. There are also many beautiful fortified tower houses dating back to the fifteenth century, like the ones in the village of Vénola. There is a circular itinerary that starts from the village square and winds for about 20 km, covering these suggestive places. It is the Sette Chiese (seven churches) itinerary, so called because of the presence of ancient and quiet places of worship. The itinerary is particularly fascinating in spring, when the cherry orchards are blooming. INFORMATION Bologna> Crespellano > Savigno Savigno Town Hall tel. 051.6700811 [email protected] Savigno and Tartufesta In the Upper Samoggia valley that special combination of factors that gives origin to the truffle can be found: luxuriant and uncontaminated woods, clean air, fresh and pure water. Therefore it is not by chance that Savigno is considered by many the regional “capital” of Tartufo Bianco Pregiato dei Colli Bolognesi (the precious white truffle from the hills around Bologna). This precious, renowned and scented underground mushroom lives in symbiosis with particular tree species, connected to their roots. It takes nourishment from the trees, giving them back more water and more mineral substances “in return”. It takes a rather long time, some years, for the carpophore, that is the edible fruit, to develop from the mycorhizae penetrated in the roots of the trees and only truffle expert know where to look for these real treasures of nature. The white truffle is the most precious and aromatic variety. It matures between September and December in poplar, white willow, English oak, Turkey oak, Downy oak, lime the territory the territory 44 47 and hornbeam woods. It is yellow ochre and the unmistakable aroma it emits has tones of garlic and of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Every year in November Savigno and its surroundings liven up with the National Festival of Tartufo Bianco Pregiato dei Colli Bolognesi, one of the most important events in the territory as well as the leading event of the provincial truffle festival, Tartufesta. Thousands of visitors rush to enjoy the specialities made with the precious mushroom and to visit the important trade show. However throughout autumn and winter Savigno continues to spoil lovers and gourmets with its fifteen restaurants and trattorias specialized in aromatic and tasty dishes made with Tartufo Bianco dei Colli Bolognesi. Savigno belongs to the National Association of Truffle Towns (Associazione Nazionale Città del Tartufo), which for over a decade has brought together the territories most suited for the production of the noble mushroom, like for example Alba, Acqualagna and Norcia. INFORMATION Bologna> Crespellano > Savigno Details on the events are available at www.comune.savigno.bo.it Caves, water and history Castel d’Aiano offers a variety of definitely interesting and fascinating naturalistic and historic sites. In San Cristoforo di Labante there are the homonymous caves, a geological site of great importance. A calcareous rock, from which a picturesque cascade gushes out, dominates the entrance to the Labante karst cavity, which enters deep into the travertine massif: this peculiar geological formation is particularly precious precisely for its deeper development compared to other similar ones. The green and harmonious setting of the cascades and of the cave make the view even more pleasant. Along the torrent Gea there is an adventurous path that follows the water course into its gorge, a sort of small canyon hollowed out by the water among luxuriant vegetation, inviting but cold water pools and rocks made smooth by the torrent. The path starts from the Madonna dei Cerreti oratory and reaches Paiarolo mill, past the mill it goes back up along the torrent Gea to the ruins of an ancient and wonderful water mill, historically used to grind wheat and chestnuts. There is also a constellation of little churches, Mountain delight: the borlengo This very peculiar gastronomic preparation is rather diffuse in the Bolognese and Modenese mountainous area, although with slight differences in the cooking time, in the thickness of the dough and in the name. It is a sort of very thin pancake obtained by cooking the dough, the so called colla (glue), on a large and very hot griddle, the “sole”. The ingredients used to prepare the dough are water, flour and salt, but the secret of the borlengo lies in the cooking and in the preparation of the griddle: this is a secret that no expert is willing to reveal. The perfect borlengo is crispy, not gluey nor elastic and very thin, almost transparent. There are a lot of legends and myths about this traditional poor and ancient food, whose etymological origin is unknown. Probably the name derives from a trick played on a housewife while she was making bread and somebody diluted her dough with some water… The borlengo is eaten with la cunza, a traditional mixture made with minced pork lard seasoned with garlic and rosemary and a sprinkle of grated ParmigianoReggiano cheese is a must: once filled, the borlengo is ready to be enjoyed, but only after having folded it into four. Borlengo Festival in Rocca di Roffeno every year in June is the perfect occasion to stuff oneself with this dish. www.roccadiroffeno.it [email protected] Trekking by train oratories sanctuaries and centuries old stone villages immersed in greenery that are worth discovering. In Rocca di Roffeno there is Saint Peter’s Church, which dates back to the twelfth century. It is the only Church in the Bolognese Apennines that to this day still has an evident Romanesque structure. In the fourteenth century Saint Martin’s Church there are valuable paintings and a splendid wooden confessional dating back to the seventeenth century. Not to miss the Abbey of Santa Lucia di Roffeno, ancient Benedictine monastery originally dedicated to Saint Sylvester and strategically situated on the via Romea Nonantolana. There are also many fortifications and fourteenth century tower houses: particularly interesting are the solid and well recovered Torre Jussi and the fortalice of Monzone, where Giorgio Morandi, the painter from Bologna, used to spend his summers and from which he took inspiration for some of his masterpieces. INFORMATION Bologna> Tolè > Castel d’Aiano www.comune.casteldaiano.bo.it www.roccadiroffeno.it It is a successful initiative renewed every year that proposes a rich calendar of organised excursions and walks. The starting point of the walk is reached from Bologna by train and by other public means: this is what Trekking by train is about. It is an ecological and amusing way of being in company and discovering on foot the beauties, the scents and the tastes of the Bolognese territory and not only, lead by the CAI (the Italian Alpine Club) guides. The one- day excursions take place in the most beautiful and significant places of the Bolognese Apennines: from Monte Sole historic park to Corno alle Scale and Marzabotto... and they often have a historic, cultural, naturalistic theme or a solidarity aim. Of course there are excursions to suit everybody’s fancy, for all levels of difficulty and differences in altitude: in the brochure “Trekking by Train” all the excursions and the related information are provided. The brochure can be downloaded from the site of the Province of Bologna or asked for at the Bologna section of CAI. INFORMATION CAI (Italian Alpine Club) Bologna, tel 051.234856 www.cai-bo.it [email protected] the territory the territory 46 49 Along the Gothic Line The Guanella - Monte Castello - Ronchidoso historic and equipped itinerary was created to restore the military posts of the Gothic Line, the defensive barrage that the German occupation troops had built in 1944 to counter the offensive of the Allied Armies. The equipped itinerary is part of a natural and still uncontaminated environment and thanks to the dedicated signposting it is possible to find the places that were theatre of war between 1944 and 1945. This is how visitors can discover the valleys and the paths the partisans walked along, and also the hills, the crests and the villages that still bear the marks of the passage of the front and of the tragic violence that hit the territory and the civilian population, in a succession of military actions that combined the destructive power of war technology and the often unprecedented ferocity of the German troops and of their fascist alleys. In February 1945 in Monte Castello a bloody battle against the Nazis was fought. The Brazilian battalions of FEB, Força Expedicionária Brasileira, also took part: a very large number of Brazilian soldiers died in that attack and a memorial was dedicated to them; they all came from the same village near Rio de Janeiro and in the seventies the name of the village was changed to Monte Castello in honour of their sacrifice. Also Ronchidoso, site of the famous sanctuary, was the theatre of a tragic event that should never be forgotten: on 28th September 1944 the Germans killed 62 helpless civilians, mostly elderly people, women and children, in reprisal. By restoring the war posts and the places that are the symbol of the fight against Nazi-Fascism the historic memory is preserved, and so is the memory of those people who came here from all over the world to assert the values of freedom and democracy. INFORMATION Bologna > Gaggio Montano > Ronchidoso www.comune.gaggio-montano.bo.it Our Lady of the Maple Tree and Dardagna falls The sanctuary dates back to the sixteenth century and is a typical example of spontaneous mountain architecture. The site where it was built was already a place of worship. In fact, according to the legend, this is where the Madonna appeared near a monumental maple tree, which can still be seen today, saved two deaf-and-dumb shepherd boys from a snowstorm and healed them, making them able to hear and speak. To this day, on 5th August many believers participate in the feast celebrating that miraculous event. site is also the starting point of a beautiful excursion to Dardagna falls. Following the easy paths, visitors can reach a magic place in less than one hour: the first torrent’s drop. Continuing to walk uphill along the torrent and immersed in greenery, the other three pools of very fresh and crystalline water can be discovered, one after the other. This is where the torrent cascades fall roaring. The falls are worth a visit all year round: in spring for the many flowers, in summer for the coolness rising from the torrent and in winter for the enchanted environment created by the snow and the ice. Inside the sanctuary the many testimonies of devotion and the ex voto left to seal miracles and recoveries can be admired: particularly fascinating is the series of polychrome wooden statues donated by the Brunori family in the sixteenth century. The INFORMATION Bologna > Vergato > Lizzano in B. > Madonna dell’Acero via Madonna Dell’Acero, 194 tel. 0534.51052 [email protected] Corno alle Scale Regional Park Pian d’Ivo Visits Centre - Madonna dell’Acero Inside Corno alle Scale park The regional park protects an area of great naturalistic value. The area is concentrated around the Corno alle Scale massif and is characterized by the typical landscapes of the middle Apennine mountain and by environments at high altitudes with more marked Alpine features. The woody mountainsides provide evidence of how the millenary presence of man has shaped the territory for his own survival and of how today nature is taking back those spaces that man has progressively abandoned: the many cultivated chestnut woods that once used to provide sustenance to the mountain families are now leaving more and more space to autochthonous mixed oak, maple and hazel woods. Walking through the woods it is still possible to see the dark traces of the charcoal kilns and the drying houses where chestnuts used to be dried. Going up in altitude the mixed woods are replaced by beautiful beech woods but trees cannot survive below the crest due to the cold and wind: this is where prairies and red bilberry moors prosper. The huge ancient sandstone steps of a marine origin that characterize the 1950 m of the Corno are undoubtedly charming. Along the mountainside it is still possible to see the traces of the glacial phenomena that during the Quaternary period deeply marked these valleys, for example the Dardagna valley, where the torrent originates the homonymous falls. The fascinating natural environments are the habitat of a rich flora and fauna: here it is even possible to follow wolves and their night howls, led by guide experts at wolfhowling. There are a lot of activities to do in the open air, in summer and in winter: the indicated paths and refuges are ideal for more or less challenging walks, even with snowshoes, the ski resort is perfect for ski lovers. Other activities include mountainbiking, archery, paragliding, horse riding... while expert alpinists love to be able to climb along the frozen canals of Corno alle Scale in winter. There are six discovery itineraries covering the park high and low and dedicated to the history of the Resistance in the mountains, the monumental trees, the watercourses, sheep farming... INFORMATION Bologna > Vergato > Lizzano in B. > Madonna dell’Acero Park Centre via Roma 1- località Pianaccio tel. 0534.51761 Excursion Map Corno alle Scale regional park 1:25.000 - Emilia Romagna Region 2005 www.appenninobolognese.net www.parcocornoallescale.it the territory the territory 48 51 Not to forget Marzabotto and Mount Sole The beauty of the middle mountain landscape between the Reno and the Setta valleys causes it hard to believe that this is where some of the most tragic pages in the history of the twentieth century were written. Mount Sole historic park covers almost the entire area involved in the Marzabotto massacre in 1944: between 29th September and 5th October the place was the theatre of one of the most terrible massacres committed by the Nazi troops in western Europe. Eight hundred defenceless people, mostly women, children and elderly people, were killed; their houses and churches burnt down; people and animals swept away forever. Eight hundred civilians were killed in ferocious mass murders by the Nazi-Fascists within a mopping up operation of vast proportions against the partisan brigade Stella Rossa. Mount Sole park is unique of its kind in Italy. It has a complex and fascinating soul, composed of different and interwoven thematic itineraries, illustrated by signs along the route: besides the Memory itinerary, the heart of Mount Sole, created to keep the historic memory of the Resistance and of the Nazi-Fascist massacres alive, there are also the Naturalistic itinerary, the Etruscan itinerary and the Morandi itinerary. Mount Sole is a unique place, where the beauty of the landscape and the violence of history indissolubly interweave, making the visit to the park a touching event that makes visitors reflect: every year celebrations, commemorations and initiatives are organised with a large and heartfelt participation. by which sulphur produces beneficial effects, for example sedative or antispasmodic effects. Besides the therapeutic advantages illustrated for different pathologies, these waters are excellent for a pleasant and quiet break: a wide range of wellbeing treatments, summarizing the extraordinary properties of the thermal waters, and the proven experience of a staff of professionals is offered. The thermal baths, besides developing an intense therapeutic activity, have always been the ideal place to recover one’s psychophysical balance. INFORMATION Bologna > Vergato > Porretta Terme via Roma, 5 tel. 0534.22062 [email protected] - www.termediporretta.it Villa Griffone and the Marconi Museum INFORMATION Bologna > Sasso Marconi > Marzabotto > Pian di Venola Visits centre Il Poggiolo via San Martino 25, tel. 051.6787100 www.parcostoricomontesole.it Scuola di Pace Monte Sole (Peace school) foundation that promotes education to peace and non violent settlement of conflicts www.montesole.org Porretta, millenary thermal wellbeing According to the legend, a sick ox that was no longer able to carry the plough watered at the Puzzola thermal spring and was healed, recovering its vigour. That was how the healing properties of Porretta’s waters were discovered and the healed ox became the emblem of the thermal baths. The history of these healing waters and of their therapeutic exploitation is very ancient: some archaeological findings attest they were used already in the Roman times; during the Renaissance Machiavel- li stayed in Porretta, which has been appreciated for its extraordinary waters ever since. The waters from Porretta’s springs are bromine-iodine as well as sulphureous: the first come to the surface in the upper part of the village, in the same area where the archeological findings of the Roman thermal baths were discovered; in their composition they are similar to sea water and their characterizing elements are sodium chloride, sodium, bromine and iodine. The sulphureous waters are rich in a particular gas, hydrogen sulphide, Wireless communication that today characterizes every minute of our lives was born here, on Sasso di Glòsina, outpost of Contrafforte Pliocenico nature reserve, later named after the inventor of one of the fundamental discoveries for mankind: Guglielmo Marconi. The seventeenth century villa Griffone was the residence of the Marconi family and to this day it still overlooks the Porrettana state road. Here in 1894 Marconi, who was just twenty, started to carry out his experiments with electromagnetic waves which marked the beginning of the era of radiocom- munication. The conquest of distance, the main aim of the enterprising Marconi, occurred with the connection between England and France: a 50 km line in 1899. The first transatlantic transmission between England and Newfoundland in December 1901 was a real challenge to the scientific knowledge of the time and brought Marconi great fame but also the hostility of the submarine cable companies and of the many sceptics within the scientific community. The villa houses the Foundation and the Museum dedicated to the great inventor, who was awarded the Nobel prize for physics when he was only thirty five. In the Museum visitors can find accurate working reconstructions of nineteenth century scientific devices and documents related to Guglielmo Marconi’s education, displayed in the famous stanza dei bachi (the caterpillar room). In the park there is the mausoleum where the scientist is buried. It was built below the hill on top of which the villa stands. INFORMATION Bologna > Sasso Marconi > Pontecchio Marconi Marconi Museum - the Guglielmo Marconi Foundation Villa Griffone, via Celestini 1, tel. 051846121 www.fgm.it The Museum can be visited only upon reservation and by guided tours. For information and bookings contact the secretariat of the Guglielmo Marconi Foundation tel. 051846121 - Mondays to Fridays from 10 to 13 and from 14.30 to 16.30. the territory the territory 50 2495 The dairy has been producing Parmigiano-Reggiano since 1959. From 1997 the production has been 100% organic. The dairy takes care of the whole productive chain, from forage to milk, to Parmigiano-Reggiano. Caseria di Sant’Anna Via Sparate, 1 - 40011 Anzola Emilia (Bo) tel. 051.739659 fax 051.3170147 open Saturday 8.30 - 12.30 16 - 19 products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano cured meats, butter, ricotta cheese, local organic cheese, wine, organic compotes Caseificio Sant’Angelo Via Imbiani, 7 - 40017 San Giovanni in Persiceto (Bo) tel. 051.824811 fax 051.6876586 retail outlet Via Zenerigolo, 4/B - 40017 San Giovanni in Persiceto (Bo) open every day 8.30 - 12.30 15.30 - 19 Sunday 9 - 12 closed Sunday afternoon products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano butter, ricotta cheese, yoghurt, fresh meat and cured meats of our own make [email protected] www.caseariadisantanna.com For over eighty years, at dawn and at dusk, a trickle of milk drawn from the cows in the area has been flowing to the same street number in via Imbiani and for three generations within the same family it has been transformed with the experience gained and the passion passed on day after day, season after season, year after year into the most excellent cheese: Pamigiano-Reggiano. the dairy sells also abroad [email protected] www.aziendacaretti.it geographic coordinates geographic coordinates 44° 35’ 07’’ N 11° 09’ 41’’ E 44° 38’ 17’’ N 11° 08’ 58’’ E Cattle conferring milk (n°) 3 Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 12.000 Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 24 Active since 1959 3511 3552 3511 The dairy was founded in 1968 by about fifty partners, following the closedown of two small dairies in the territory of Bazzano. From 2006 to this day the number of partners has dropped to seven. Cattle conferring milk (n°) 7 Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 11.000 Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 19 Active since 1926 Cooperativa Zootecnica Bazzanese Via Moretto Scuole, 7 - 40053 Bazzano (Bo) tel. and fax 051.831659 open every day 8.30 - 12.30 15.30 - 19.30 closed Thursday afternoon and Sunday products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano soft cheeses, processed cheese, sheep’s milk cheese, goat’s milk cheese, butter, cured meats, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, jam geographic coordinates 44° 30’ 32’’ N 11° 05’ 31’’ E Cattle conferring milk (n°) 7 Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 5.000 Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 8 Active since 1968 53 3552 dairy retailers dairy retailers Caseificio Sociale Canevaccia Via Pratorotondo, 326 - Pietracolora, 40040 Gaggio Montano (Bo) tel. and fax 0534.28590 open every day 9 - 12.30 16 - 19 closed Monday e Thursday products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano 3617 The dairy was founded in 1960 by 25 partners. It collects and processes the milk conferred by the partners to make ParmigianoReggiano but also soft cheeses. The cheeses are sold both wholesale and retail in the sales point. caciotta, butter, ricotta cheese, stracchino, milk geographic coordinates 44° 15’ 35’’ N 10° 58’ 46’’ E Cattle conferring milk (n°) 10 Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 3.700 Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 8 Active since 1960 3617 2495 52 dairy retailers dairy retailers 3618 Fattoria San Rocco Caseificio Monteveglio Via Stiore, 5 - 40050 Monteveglio (Bo) tel. and fax 051.956046 open 8.30 - 12.30 16 - 17.30 Caseificio Sociale di Querciola Località Macchiarelle - Querciola, 40042 Lizzano in B. (Bo) tel. and fax 0534.56064 open every day 8.30 - 12 16.30 - 19.30 products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano ricotta cheese, caciotta, milk, fiordilatte, stracchino, different cheeses 3623 55 3623 3618 54 The dairy Querciola was founded in 1961 by 13 partners. It processes the milk conferred by the partners and makes Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, which is sold wholesale. In 2009 it started selling also retail. other retail outlets Piazza Garibaldi, 13 - Castelfranco Emilia (Mo) the dairy sells also abroad [email protected] geographic coordinates geographic coordinates 44° 12’ 00’’ N 10° 53’ 18’’ E 44° 28’ 25’’ N 11° 06’ 33’’ E 3619 Cattle conferring milk (n°) 6 Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 6.672 Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 10 Active since 1961 Case Bortolani Via San Prospero, 5447 - 40060 Savigno (Bo) tel. and fax 051.6706002 open every day 8.30 - 12.30 15.30 - 19 closed Monday products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano caciotta, stracchino, yoghurt, ricotta cheese, cured meats other retail outlets Via della Stazione, 47/2 - Sasso Marconi (Bo) [email protected] the dairy sells also abroad geographic coordinates 44° 20’ 37’’ N 11° 04’ 24’’ E Cattle conferring milk (n°) 11 Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 4.500 Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 6 open 8.30 - 13 16 - 19.30 Sunday closed Caseificio Sociale Fior di Latte Via Torretta, 225 e 206 - 40041 Gaggio Montano (Bo) tel. and fax 0534.31126 - produzione tel. and fax 0534.30233 open every day 9 - 12.30 16 - 19 closed Thursday products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano: wide range of cheeses, mozzarella, ricotta cheese, yoghurt, panna cotta, Parmigiano-Reggiano cream, butter, cured meats, traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena, emmer, honey other retail outlets Galleria 1° Maggio, 33 - 40038 Vergato (Bo) tel. 051.910433 open 9 - 12.30 16 - 19 closed Sunday Via Al Zei, 5 - Alberghi 51017 Pescia (Pt) tel. 0572.452980 open 9 - 12.30 16 - 19.30 closed Sunday 3624 Founded as a dairy cooperative in 1965 by the milk producers from Gaggio Montano, in 1968 it began making Parmigiano-Reggiano and selling Parmigiano-Reggiano and butter retail. The administrators have always aimed at taking their product directly to the consumers’ tables. [email protected] www.caseificiofiordilatte.it products can be purchased also on-line the dairy sells also abroad geographic coordinates 44° 11’ 23’’ N 10° 57’ 19’’ E Cattle conferring milk (n°) 27 Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 10.760 Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 18 Active since 1968 3624 3619 Cattle conferring milk (n°) 4 Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 8.500 Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 22 Active since 2010 3627 56 dairy retailers 3627 The dairy was founded in 1968 by local firms. It is situated 850 m.a.s.l. in the hamlet of Rocca di Roffeno, in the municipal district of Castel D’Aiano, where the uncontaminated pastures and forage allow to make very high quality products. [email protected] the dairy sells also abroad geographic coordinates 44° 18’ 28’’ N 11° 01’ 48’’ E Cattle conferring milk (n°) 6 Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 4.000 Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 6 Active since 1968 Pieve Roffeno Via Santa Lucia, 19 - Rocca di Roffeno 40034 Castel D’Aiano (Bo) tel. 051.912701 051.912906 fax 051.912701 open every day 8 - 12.30 16 - 19 closed Monday and Thursday afternoon products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano cured meats, meat, fresh pasta of our own make, typical local products the city, the itineraries, the tastes the heart of Bologna and the routes to the discovery of its surroundings and of good food Bologna, aerial view I have been wondering for years why the Coltellino d’Oro has been awarded to everybody but me! People often say to me “Morandi is famous all over the world”, but this is a brand that is really famous in the world, together with many other important brands of our region. This is the land of Verdi, of melodrama, of Pavarotti, of Ferrari and of Ducati... and of course of Parmigiano-Reggiano. It would be important to me to become as famous worldwide as Parmigiano-Reggiano! (from a declaration during the Festival of Bolognese Dairies on 15th June 2011) Gianni Morandi Monghidoro Being popular is a natural condition for Gianni: at twelve he was already a celebrity in his village. His songs have gone down in the history of Italian customs. It is not easy to list all his successes. Among the many music competitions he won there are Cantagiro, Canzonissima and Sanremo Music Festival, which he even presented in 2011/12. A versatile artist, he has been on film sets and on fiction sets several times. A real sportsman, together with other artists he founded the National singers’ football team, of which he is the most significant representative. He was awarded the Coltellino d’Oro 2011 by the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. the city, the itineraries, the tastes 2 3 4 5 1 6 7 the city 1 Bologna’s millenarian heart p.62 itineraries to be discovered p.66 2 3 4 5 6 7 Terra plebis (common people’s land) along the Reno Between the Reno and the Navile A market outside of town Cultural agritourism in the humid areas The road of bread Going for walks around Bargi events and happenings p.68 DegustiBO The places of taste p.69 the city, the itineraries, the tastes 61 63 1. Bologna’s millenarian heart: arcades, towers and unexpected treasures There are many reasons for which Bologna is such a seducing city everybody falls in love with at their first encounter. Its thousand year old history is still so clear in the development of the roads, squares and buildings. Its inhabitants are so truly welcoming and friendly. Its unique architectural and artistic context slowly reveals itself along the almost 40km of arcades, disclosing well treasured marvels: a hidden and almost secret garden, suggestive churches, façades that tell of the greatness of ancient families. Its cultural traditions date back thousands of years but at the same time they are projected into the future, making the city cosmopolitan and dynamic. If it is true that not even a child gets lost in the centre of Bologna, as Lucio Dalla used to sing, the best way to begin enjoying this city is to start from its medieval heart, Piazza Maggiore: the square is overlooked by the great Saint Petronius’ Basilica (one of the biggest Catholic churches in the world) and by the medieval buildings that still represent the lively public and economic life, just like they used to do centuries ago. Palazzo d’Accursio, that houses the city’s council, the city, the itineraries, the tastes the city, the itineraries, the tastes 62 with its crenellated towers, its walls and its frescoes; Palazzo dei Notai, Palazzo dei Banchi, Palazzo Re Enzo and Palazzo del Podestà... In the adjacent Piazza del Nettuno there is Sala Borsa, a rich and modern multimedia library. The Roman Forum of the ancient Bononia (Bologna’s Latin name) can be seen through its glass flooring. In the square stands the sixteenth century sculpture of Neptune by the Dutch mannerist sculptor Jean de Boulogne, also known as Giambologna. The sculpture towers above the homonymous fountain and it is so imposing that the people of Bologna call it al Zigànt. For centuries its outrageous nudity was covered with bronze “trousers”. Its position is not accidental, it is the meeting point of the Cardo and the Decumanus, the orthogonal lines of demarcation in Roman city planning. Thanks to the arcades people in Bologna can get out of the sun and of the rain: they are over forty kilometres long and can be found in almost all the streets in the city centre. Where could the longest arcade in the world be situated? In Bologna, of course. It is the one connecting Porta Saragozza with the suggestive Sanctuary of Saint Luke, perched on the hills overlooking the city: it is composed of 666 arches and it is almost 4km long. The arcades date back to the Middle Ages, when Bologna experienced a considerable population increase due to the flourishing University (founded in 1088, it is the most ancient in the western world), which attracted scholars from all over Europe: to optimize the living spaces, the upper floors of the houses were enlarged and the part protruding was supported with wooden trabeations. This custom was so common that in 1288 an Act was promulgated establishing that all new edifices had to have arcades, which had to be at least 7 Bologne- 65 se feet high, that is as tall as a man on a horse, and just as wide. In 1568 the Papal Legate and the Gonfalonier forced the people of the city to replace the wooden trabeations with brick ones. However not everybody obeyed, notwithstanding the ten gold scudi fine: and luckily they did not, because today we can still admire the beautiful fourteenth century wooden structures, like the ones belonging to Casa Serracchioli and Casa Isolani. The towers are another medieval architectural feature that characterizes Bologna’s history and appearance: the so called Two Towers, the Garisenda and the Asinelli towers, are a symbol of the city and are among the twenty “survivors” of the almost one hundred towers that between the twelfth and the thirteenth centuries made Bologna the Selva Turrita, literally the tower woods. Built for military and gentilitial purposes during the Investiture Controversy, they were a symbol of the power of the richest families and also an offensive and defensive instrument, but even today the towers are shrouded in mystery: it is still not clear why so many were built. And what can be said about Bologna’s underground canals? The rich water system was exploited already by the Romans. It is composed of five canals and a natural torrent. The waterways used to connect Bologna with the river Po, guarantee water supply and, thanks to a natural drop, they used to make the city’s many water mills and factories work: in the sevente- the city, the itineraries, the tastes the city, the itineraries, the tastes 64 enth century there were hundreds. Today part of the underground canals can be visited thanks to exciting guided tours on foot or by rubber dinghy: not to miss the glimpse of an unusual “Venetian” Bologna which can be enjoyed from the small window in via Piella... Bologna offers many art routes: there are over forty between museums and collections, and also fascinating religious buildings, exclusive edifices, a very rich cultural life, arts and crafts and historic shops...Visitors are spoilt for choice. There is a new way of discovering, rediscovering and understanding the genus, yesterday’s and today’s Bolognese people, it is the project Genus Bononiae - Museums in the city, a cultural, artistic and museum route in Bologna’s historic cen- tre, in the ancient buildings restored and recovered for public use; the roads in Bologna become virtual corridors and the buildings and the churches exhibiting spaces in connection with the other museums, picture galleries and cultural, economic and social realities that liven up the local community. INFORMATION Bologna Welcome Tourist information centre in Piazza Maggiore tel. 051.239660 I.A.T. Tourist office at G. Marconi Airport, arrival gate tel. 051.6472113 www.bolognawelcome.it Genus Bononiae - City Museums tel. 051 19936317 www.genusbononiae.it 67 Itineraries to be discovered The municipalities and the Province of Bologna devised a network of routes that reach the heart of Bolognese tradition and history, to the discovery of small urban centres rich in culture, art and nature, and that make the wine and food and the agricultural products that are a feather in the cap for the territory known. Detailed information about places and itineraries, tastes and typical products, maps and all the businesses involved in the project can be found at: www.itineraridascoprire.it. Here are some of the itineraries proposed. 2. Terra plebis (common people’s land) along the Reno The route follows the ecological corridor of the river Reno into the territory of Pieve di Cento as far as “la Bisana” area of ecological rebalancing and Panfilia woods. Pieve di Cento distinguishes itself by its eighteenth century historic centre and by some medieval and late Renaissance sites; the town hall, the theatre and the fortress are of considerable value. Significant is the institution of Partecipanza Agraria (Common land property), one of the few still existing in Italy, dating back to 1260. Founded as a community concession of land by the local land lord to several families that bound themselves to reclaim it, till it and cultivate it, the Partecipanza agraria has kept its basic institutions and the original territory arrangement unchanged to this day. 3. Between the Reno and the Navile The itinerary includes the municipalities of Argelato, Bentivoglio, Castello d’Argile, Castel Maggiore, Galliera, San Giorgio di Piano and San Pietro in Casale. There are tracks to go along by bicycle or on horse back and didactic routes inside areas of naturalistic interest and ecological rebalancing, like La Bisana, le Vasche dell’ex Zuccherificio, il Casone del Partigiano, La Balia, l’Oasi La Rizza Centro Cicogna, il Bosco di Sant’Agostino or Panfilia. The Peasant Civilization Museum in San Marino di Bentivoglio, the historic villages and the ancient buildings in San Giorgio di Piano, Bentivoglio and Castello d’Argile are a must. There are farms, agritourism farms and didactic farms that offer local agricultural products: Emilia Romagna pear PGI, Altedo green asparagus PGI, melons, vegetables and Reno wines PDO. 4. A market outside of town The best place to buy firstlings from the land is out of town, where they are produced, in that stretch of the Bolognese plain represented by the municipalities of Granarolo dell’Emilia, Malalbergo, Minerbio, Baricella, Budrio and Molinella, which belong to the Association Terre di Pianura (Lands of the plain). This route collects the farms selling their products retail (among which the Potato of Bologna PDO), agritourism farms and didactic farms. The route also includes valuable artistic and cultural testimonies, besides the traces of the agriculture of the past: the retting grounds where hemp was left to macerate and the piantate - rows of trees wrapped in grapevines, the so called vite maritata - which today give shelter to plant and animal species otherwise destined to disappear and also the grid of the Roman centuriation, which has survived and is still recognizable. 5. Cultural agritourism in the humid areas In the municipalities of Medicina and Molinella there are humid areas and protected areas rich in aquatic flora and fauna. The renaturalization areas of Vallona, Zerbetto, Cooperativa Lavoratori della Terra, Barbana and l’Oasi del Quadrone are marsh biotopes where many migrant aquatic birds, once disappeared from the plain and now present and visible, live and nest. Historic buildings like Buda Church and the medieval village of Selva Malvezzi offer suggestions for cultural visits, while the Northern Cross Radiotelescope - completed by the monumental satellite aerial - represents the biggest of its kind in the world. For a tasty stop, Medicina celebrates its typical onion in occasion of the ancient fair held on the second Sunday of July. 6. The road of bread This route was born as a project of the association Montagnamica (literally, mountain friend) to recover and enhance the organic cultivation of cereals widespread in the Bolognese Apennine area through the qualification of the entire productive chain, from the field to the consumers’ tables. The tasty local mountain bread, for its high quality and its traditional and cultural value, has become the symbol of the typical tastes from these mountain lands and the protagonist of a tourist, cultural and gastronomic itinerary. The association Montagnamica, founded in 2003, has the task to promote and enhance the territory by making the activities of producers and craftsmen known and by defining the specifications and the quality certifications of the typical products. 7. Going for walks around Bargi Bargi is a small and ancient hamlet in the Apennines. In the time of Matilda of Canossa it was one of the most important centres in the Upper Reno valley. There are other small suggestive villages in the surroundings, connected by an itinerary at the discovery of the naturalistic beauties of Suviana Lakes and Brasimone Regional Park, through the places that during the Middle Ages were the passage of the pilgrims and the merchants going to Rome. This is where visitors can find farms making typical and organic products, agritourism farms and restaurants offering traditional dishes made with truffle, a delight that abounds in the woods of the area insomuch that Bargi belongs to the national association Città del Tartufo (the truffle towns). Other delicious “fruits” of this area, where the association Apicoltori Val Limentra (Beekeepers of the Limentra valley) has been active for twenty years, are also honey, pollen, royal jelly and propolis. the city, the itineraries, the tastes the city, the itineraries, the tastes 66 69 events & happenings typical tastes, music, street markets, carnivals, theatre, traditions and celebrations… Spring Monteveglio, beginning of March, Saracca (salted fish) festival Anzola Emilia, May, Spring festival Sasso Marconi, 25th April, Guglielmo Marconi Day Castello di Serravalle, May, Fiera del Maggiociondolo (a festival with sports events, traditions, etc.) and Mercato delle cose buone (a market of local produce) Savigno, May, Palio del Maggio (ancient horse race) Summer Anzola Emilia, June, the Anzola fair San Giovanni in Persiceto, June/September, Arte&Città (a cultural event) and Fira di Ai (literally, garlic festival) Bazzano, June, the Health fair (an event dedicated to health and wellbeing) Monteveglio, beginning of June, the Abbey feast Porretta Terme, July, Porretta Soul Festival Castello di Serravalle, August, Calici di Stelle, wine tastings under a starry sky Castel d’Aiano, August, Ferragosto in Castel d’Aiano and Motofest (motorcycle event) in Rocca di Roffeno Gaggio Montano, July, Gaggio è un miraggio (a folk festival with shows, music, dancing, food stalls, etc.) Rooster festival - Hunters festival - the festival of Agriculture Lizzano in Belvedere, August, the feast of Our Lady of the Maple Tree Savigno, September, Saint Mathew’s fair Autumn Anzola Emilia, September, Santa Maria in Strada festival San Giovanni in Persiceto, mid September, the Autumn fair Bazzano, mid September, Bazzano Autumn festival and Mercato delle cose buone (a market of local produce) Castello di Serravalle, October, Gnocco fritto (fried dough) festival Monteveglio, mid October, Autumn festival and Mercato delle cose buone (a market of local produce) Savigno, September/October, Tartufesta (truffle festival) Winter Savigno, beginning of November, fine white truffle of Colli Bolognesi national festival San Giovanni in Persiceto, February/ March, the Persiceto Historical Carnival Castello di Serravalle, 16th January, Saint Anthony’s fire Gaggio Montano, December, Saint Lucy’s feast day and the Living nativity scene in Pietracolora Lizzano in Belvedere, October/ November, Tartufesta (truffle festival) Porretta Terme, December, the Porretta film festival information & tourists reception TOURIST OFFICE Zola Predosa (cities of Bazzano, Casalecchio di Reno, Castello di Serravalle, Crespellano, Monte San Pietro, Monteveglio, Savigno, Zola Predosa) via Masini 11 c/o Villa Edvige Garagnani Zola Predosa tel. 051.752838 - 051.752472 [email protected] www.iatzola.it Sasso Marconi - UIT InfoSasso via Porrettana 312 (Piazza dei Martiri) Sasso Marconi tel. 051.6758409 [email protected] www.infosasso.it Lizzano in Belvedere - Lizzano in Belvedere, piazza Marconi, 6 tel. 0534 51052 [email protected] www.comune.lizzano.bo.it Lizzano in Belvedere - IAT di Vidiciatico via Marconi 31, Vidiciatico, tel. 0534.53159 [email protected] www.comune.lizzano.bo.it the territory the territory 68 DegustiBo DegustiBO is the red quality seal of the Province of Bologna which promotes the excellence of Bolognese typical products. The Bolognese territory is one of the most certified in Europe: there are in fact many PDO and PGI products that prove also the cultural value of an important wine and food tradition. The initiative aims to award those companies promoting the excellence of the province of Bologna on the one hand and, on the other, to be a reference point for the people who want to taste high quality products. The seal, born within the project “Enhancement and promotion of the territory” founded by Fondazione Carisbo and registered with the Chamber of Commerce on 16 May 2008, is given to those companies that commit to observe the prescriptions foreseen by the specifications. An evaluation commission presided over by Prof. Massimo Montanari and composed of experts in the field and qualified representatives deals with the evaluation of the applications received. Currently 84 companies bear the seal: 18 agritourism farms, 23 restaurants, 11 groceries, 10 bakers’ shops, 8 fresh pasta shops, 4 delicatessens, 7 butchers’ shops and 3 greengrocers. Agritourism Agriturismo S.Giuliano via Galletta, 3 S.Lazzaro Podere Santa Croce via Bonaccorsi, 17 Argelato Pan di Legno via del Poggio, 550 Castello di Serravalle La Crocetta via Castelfranco, 36 S.Giovanni in Persiceto Il Poggiolo via Gorgognano, 4 Pianoro I Salici via Suor Donati, 108 Anzola Emilia Le conchiglie via Lagune, 76/1 Sasso Marconi Rio Maggiore via Rio Maggiore, 22 Sasso Marconi Santissima Trinità via Marana, 9/A Budrio Santa Maria Maddalena via Armiggia, 33 Budrio Poggiolandi via Sassonero, 3 Monterenzio Società Agricola Le Ginestre via Pietro Nenni, 4/2 Pianoro Azienda agrituristica dell’Orso Località Polveriera Grizzana Morandi COPAPS cooperativa sociale via Maranina, 36 Sasso Marconi Arcadia via Cornetta, 491 San Pietro in Casale Ca’ Guidotti via Medelana, 16 Marzabotto Società Agricola Farneto via Collina, 1 Monterenzio Az. Agr. Bortolotti Maria via San Martino, 1 Zola Predosa Az. Agr. Il murello via Fiorentina, 3780 Medicina Vincenzi Monia via della Pieve, 1 S.Benedetto Val di Sambro Bakers’ and Cake shops Il Forno di Calzolari via del Mercato, 2 Monghidoro Pasticceria Saffi via Saffi 2/D Bologna Nottetempo via Murri, 148/b Bologna 71 Torte e Tortelli galleria Nik Novecento, 1 Sasso Marconi Tamburini via Caprarie, 1 Bologna Mafaro Francesco via Lame, 160 Bologna Da Maurizio via Saati, 6 San Giovanni in Persiceto Il panificio di Bai Luciano via Nosadella, 7/A Bologna Rosticceria Due Torri via Mazzini, 49/A Bologna Al forno delle Sorelle Bongiovanni via G. Bruno San Giovanni in Persiceto OMAR via L. Campanini, 14 Pieve di Cento Pasticceria Eporedia via Arno, 25/1 Bologna Forno Matteoni Enrico e C. via Monari, 10 Vergato Groceries Ditta Capponcelli Maurizio via Benelli, 1 S.Giovanni in Persiceto La Bottega Sasso Marconi via Porrettana, 298 Sasso Maconi La Pachenia via Centese, 17 Argelato Spaccio Fratelli Caretti via Zenerigolo, 4/B San Giovanni in Persiceto Pausa Sfiziosa via M. Gandhi, 2 Bentivoglio - loc. San Marino Tamburini via Caprarie, 1 Bologna Panificio Ghini via Sillaro, 57/B Casalfiumanese loc. Sassoleone Cose Buone via Lavino, 175 Monte San Pietro Delicatessen and Rotisseries La Ghiotta via Lavino, 189 Calderino di Monte S. Pietro Torte e Tortelli galleria Nik Novecento, 1 Sasso Marconi Franchi Dario via Lavino, 503 Monte San Pietro Drogheria Gandolfi via IV Novembre, 52 Lizzano in Belvedere Spicchiricchi via Galliera, 22/B Bologna Matteoni Enrico e C. via Monari, 10 Vergato Alimentari Palmieri via Roma, 2 Vergato Butchers’ shops Dell’Edera via Edera, 20 S. Lazzaro di Savena Degli Esposti Paolo via Porrettana Nord, 1/B Marzabotto Macelleria Marconi via Marconi, 22 Bologna Fresh Pasta Shops Macelleria e MinI market Mattarozzi via Lavino, 314 Monte San Pietro Galliera via Due Ponti, 5/7 Argelato Torte e Tortelli galleria Nik Novecento, 1 Sasso Marconi Il regno della pasta via della Repubblica, 66 S. Lazzaro di Savena Delizie di Pasta via Marzabotto, 8 Ozzano dell’Emilia Ilenia via della Barca, 21/3 Bologna Sfogliarina via Porrettana 452 Casalecchio di Reno Naldi Valeria via del Pratello 71/A Bologna Le sfogline via Belvedere 7 Bologna Il girasole via Cavour, 18 Vergato Dall’aglio Paola via dello Sport, 12/b Calderara di Reno Zambelli Roberto via 2 Agosto 1980, n. 108 Sant’Agata Bolognese La locanda Smeraldi via Sammarina, 47 Bentivoglio Il Pescatore via Lunga, 20/B Anzola dell’Emilia Ristorante Biagi via Savenella, 9/A Bologna Franco Rossi via Goito, 3 Bologna Trattoria Romano viale Pietramellara, 15 Bologna Hotel Ristorante Montegrande via Marconi, 27 Vidiciatico Hotel Ristorante Ca’ Venezia via Minghetti, 148 Vergato Albergo Ristorante Da Gilberto Bacino Brasimone, 86 Camugnano Bar Ristorante La Scuderia via XX Settembre, 53 Dozza Macelleria montanara via Roma, 64 Gaggio Montano Al Voltone piazza Re Enzo, 1C Bologna Ristorante Rossi Sapori Regina Hotel via Saliceto, 8 Bentivoglio Macelleria Pirazzoli via Emilia, 43 Dozza - loc. Toscanella Cantina Bentivoglio via Mascarella, 4/B Bologna Polpette e Crescentine via dei Fornaciai, 9/3 Bologna Macelleria C.M. via Saragozza, 25 Bologna Trattoria San Chierlo via San Chierlo, 13 A Monte San Pietro Greengrocers Restaurants Antica Trattoria del Cacciatore via Caduti di Casteldebole, 25 Bologna Albergo Stella via Giovanni XXIII, 67 Tolè di Vergato Locanda La Tagliolina via Marzatore, 41 Monteveglio Antica Trattoria Belletti via Lavino, 499 Montepastore Locanda del Castello Palazzo de Rossi, 16 Sasso Marconi Due Lune via Bertocchi, 1/A Bologna Tamburini via Caprarie, 1 Bologna Trattoria Vilma via Valle, 33 San Vincenzo di Galliera Ristorante Nuova Roma via Olivetta, 87 Sasso Marconi Lella Collina frutta e verdura via Lavino, 1/B Monte San Pietro Le 5 stagioni vicolo Stagni, 8 Imola Ditta Franceschini via Pescherie Vecchie 2/B Bologna the city, the itineraries, the tastes the city, the itineraries, the tastes 70 75 The Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese does not take responsibility in relation to the information about the dairies, which was provided directly by the interested makers. 77 © photographic images Enrico Valenti and Francesca Zanetti (Eccentrico) photos of the dairies, p. 16 bottom, 17 top, 19 bottom, 24, 27, 29 bottom, 49 bottom, 50 top, 67 Carlo Guttadauro p. 18, 19, 22, 23, 26, 29, 30 - 31 Photographic archive of the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese p. 25 Lucio Rossi - Foto R.C.R. Parma p. 5, 72 -73 Claudio Guidetti’s archive p. 17 bottom Francesca Soffici p. 20 Fabio Martinelli p. 36 bottom Emmanuele Coltellacci p. 39 bottom, 44 bottom Paolo Balbarini p. 27 top Photographic archive of the Province of Bologna p. 40 bottom, 42, 43, 44 top, 47 bottom, 48 bottom, 49 top Photographic archive of Emilia Romagna Turismo p. 40 top, 41 top, 60, 62 bottom, 63, 64, 65 Archive of San Giovanni in Persiceto Town Hall p. 37 bottom, 38 top Archive of Savigno Town Hall p. 45 Archive of Castel d’Aiano Town Hall p. 46 Archive of Gaggio Montano Town Hall p. 48 alto Archive of the Guglielmo Marconi Foundation p. 51 Photographic archive of the Government Department Responsible for Archaeological Heritage of Emilia Romagna p. 38 bottom, 39 top Photographic archive of Hotel Helvetia Porretta Terme p. 50 bottom iStockphoto p. 21, 32 33 Fotolia p. 47 top © silvana comugnero, 58 - 59 © claudio zacc, 62 © anghifoto The editor has done everything possible to trace the holders of the photographic rights of the images published and is prepared to fulfil his obligations in the event of possible errors or omissions For updated information on the world of Parmigiano-Reggiano and the dairies making the cheese visit the website www.parmigiano-reggiano.it A GPS guide of the dairies for the main satellite navigation systems can be downloaded from the website eccentrico.eu Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Bologna Section Viale Virgilio, 55 - 41123 Modena Tel. 059.208630 Fax 059.208635 www.parmigiano-reggiano.it