the best of california
Transcription
the best of california
food+drink The Best of California From unique boutiques to unbeatable burgers, 124 of the precious things that make the Golden State synonymous with the good life C 00 square one: LEAH REID; MIETTE CAKES: © 2006 Frankie Frankeny, FrankenyImages.com; PROVIDENCE: Jennifer Cheung Photography; manresa: Justin Lewis Lunch Counter One sip of an egg cream at the leafy-green palm-wallpapered Fountain Coffee Room at the Beverly Hills Hotel is a passport to the 1950s. Agents and power players swivel in retro pink stools at this underground dinette for nosh classics: burgers, French toast and O.J. squeezed before your very eyes— in a real press—all since 1949. 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310-276-2251; beverlyhillshotel.com. Sweet Spot The pastries are elegant edible art at Extraordinary Desserts, Karen Krasne’s sleek San Diego cafe. To pause with a cup of gourmet organic tea and a chocolate macadamia torte is sugary serenity. 2929 Fifth Ave., 619-294-2132, and 1430 Union St., San Diego, 619-294-7001; extraordinarydesserts.com. Afternoon Tea Leisurely tea at the recently renovated Lobby Lounge of The RitzCarlton, Huntington Hotel & Spa is a tradition for old-school Pasadenites. Chef Craig Strong’s adorable bites—from egg-caviar mousses to cucumber and boursin on brioche—are perfect with a flute of Champagne (or orchid oolong, take your pick). 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena, 626-5683900; ritzcarlton.com. Steakhouse Beyond exquisite meat and tempting side dishes, the perfect steakhouse has to have a certain ambiance of tradition and quality. Lucky’s in Montecito feels like a low-key clubhouse for serious social players— and has the impeccable menu to match. 1279 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805-565-7540. Top 5 Taquerias Californians are spoiled by superlative Mexican food throughout the state. Here, five best bets for a taco fix: Yuca’s, Los Feliz. This James Beard Award-winner has been serving Yucatan-style cochinita pibil tacos and burritos since 1976. 2056 Hillhurst Ave., 323-6621214; yucasla.com. Lotería Grill, L.A. Stop in for a cooling rice milk horchata against the sizzle of carne deshebrada tacos. Don’t miss Sunday chilaquiles to nurse any kind of hangover. 6333 Third St., 323-930-2211. La Super-Rica, Santa Barbara. This breezy (and delicious) dive was a favorite of Santa Barbara’s own Julia Child. 622 N. Milpas, 805-963-4940. Papalote Mexican Grill, San Francisco. The “market price” guacamole and fiery house salsa are Mission favorites. 3409 24th St., 415-970-8815. El Gallito, Cathedral City. Michael Stern (king of road food) raves about this landmark where the Thursday carnitas and Friday mole are made with plenty of love. 68820 Grove St., 760-328-7794. Breakfast An understated cafe on the edge of Los Feliz, Square One Dining has developed a welldeserved following for its pitch-perfect morning menu. Look for impossibly light pressed egg sandwiches on house-made brioche toast and market-fresh fruit salads. 4854 Fountain Ave., Los Angeles, 323-661-1109; squareonedining.com. Candy Store If a Snickers isn’t satisfying, go for the nostalgia of Powell’s Sweet Shoppe, a trip down memory lane in Windsor (a few miles from Santa Rosa). Imagine lollipops in rainbow colors and a selection (miles of licorice) far beyond the mall candy store. Check out the display of antique Candy Land boards, too. 720 McClelland Dr., Windsor, 707-836-0808; powellssweetshoppe.com. Patisserie Bakers Meg Ray and Caitlin Williams first met at the Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market in 2001, where a shared love for organic, exquisitely made sweets brought them together to form Miette Cakes. These days, their pink patisserie serves its pop-art-esque cakes— tartlets and Laduréestyle macarons—a stone’s throw from that farmers’ market inside the gourmet mecca Ferry Building. 415-837-0300; miettecakes.com. Haute Seafood There were murmurs in 2005, when chef Michael Cimarusti opened Providence in the former space of Patina, that his new restaurant had a few culinary spirits to exorcise. But with Cimarusti turning out creative dishes like the Maine Lobster Bloody Mary, the immeasurably talented chef has not only cleaned house but has also vaulted Providence to the top of L.A.’s elite cuisine scene. 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323-460-4170. Martini For more than 40 years, this West Hollywood Italian eatery—which feels, with its cozy red leather banquettes and waiters in tuxedos, more like a clubhouse—has been the celebrity hangout of choice. And besides Dan Tana’s juicy, perfectly cooked steaks and heaping plates of spaghetti, its raison d’être may very well be its martinis. They’re icy cold and super smooth— just the way Frank and the rest of the Rat Pack would have them. 9071 Santa Monica Blvd., WeHo, 310-275-9444; dantanasrestaurant.com. Square One Dining Urth Caffé Dan Tana’s Oysters Since 1912, Swan Oyster Depot, a San Francisco seafood institution, has been serving raw oysters and thick Boston clam chowder to crowds who create daytime pedestrian traffic jams on Polk Street. Little more than a long counter with barstools, the Depot takes no reservations, but its convivial atmosphere and delicious shellfish make the wait worthwhile. 1517 Polk St., S.F., 415-673-1101. Chinese Banquet In the San Gabriel Valley, east of Los Angeles, authentic Chinese restaurants are easy to come by. But Triumphal Palace, with its latticescreen windows and chic modern decor, is the only place to properly hold a beautiful Hong Kong-style banquet. Order the suckling pig for a grand occasion, but don’t forget the lamb chops in honey sauce and the spicy chile chicken wings to ensure double happiness. 500 W. Main St., Alhambra, 626-308-3222. Miette Cakes Providence Swan Oyster Depot Manresa Pizza Yuca’s Chez Panisse alum Charlie Hallowell brought Lotería Grill C 00 New York’s got its bagels, and Maryland can claim crab cakes, but California is unquestionably the promised land when it comes to hamburgers. From pint-sized sliders in the desert to a towering triumph of toppings in Santa Monica, the state’s best burgers come in a wide range of shapes and sizes. Tyler’s, Palm Springs. Just two-inches wide, but piled high with grilled onions, these sliders are a revelation. 149 S. Indian Canyon Dr., 760-325-2990. Apple Pan, Los Angeles. A lightly grilled bun and a smoky special sauce set this classic apart. 10801 W. Pico Blvd., 310-475-3585. Father’s Office, Santa Monica. The ultimate deluxe burger, with applewood smoked bacon, caramelized onions, Gruyère and blue cheese on top. 1018 Montana Ave., 310-393-2337. Taylor’s Refresher, St. Helena. A perfect pitstop in the middle of wine country. 933 Main St., 707-9633486. In ‘n’ Out, Statewide. This Irvine-based California original still sticks to what it does best: simply delicious burgers made with the utmost attention to freshness. in-n-out.com. C 64 Tasting Menu When the venerable Michelin Guide finally awarded stars to Bay Area restaurants in vide, is bound to agree. 6640 Washington St., Yountville, 707-944-2380; frenchlaundry.com. Restaurant that isn’t The progressive, creative French-Catalan fare of chef David Kinch at Manresa is well worth the detour to picturesque Los Gatos—especially when it’s cooked in his brown butter sauce. In a Latte In this age of ubiquitous so-so “luxury” coffee drinks, it’s eye opening to sip one of Urth Caffé’s rich, expertly crafted lattes. The espresso is robust, the foam perfectly light and pillowy, and the temperature hot, but never scalding. 8565 Melrose Ave., L.A., 310-659-0628; 267 S. Beverly Dr., B.H., 310205-9311; 2327 Main St., S.M., 310-314-7040. Undiscovered Sushi While Japanese cuisine aficionados flock to more famous raw fish restaurants, one of the most exquisite omakase menus can be found at the unassuming Sushi Spot, a diminutive strip mall venue deep in the San Fernando Valley. 19658 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana, 818-345-8651. French Laundry late 2006, superstar chef Thomas Keller’s French Laundry was the only establishment bestowed three, Michelin’s highest distinction. Anyone who has trekked to Yountville to experience Keller’s storied nine-course tasting menu, with its unforgettable Oysters and Pearls (“sabayon” of tapioca with Beau Soleil oysters and Russian Sevruga caviar) and succulent Maine lobster tail cooked sous charming historic home updated with culinary bells and whistles, expect pure flavors and pristine local ingredients from a European-trained, surfing chef-owner whose inventive tasting menus can only be described as fresh, focused and flawless. 320 Village Ln., Los Gatos, 408-354-4330; manresarestaurant.com. Heirloom tomatoes St. Pat Cheese Frozen treat Consider it good news that, thanks to rapid expansion, there is by Meyer lemons 5 Top French Laundry Roadside Pitstop For well-heeled San Franciscans, zipping to and from Lake Tahoe on the I-80 is not complete without a stop at Ikedas, a superb combo gourmet market, fruit stand and burger bar. 13500 Lincoln Way, Auburn, 530-885-4243; ikedas.com. Classic Car Show san jacinto: Courtesy California State Parks, 2006; walt disney concert hall exterior: courtesy of the Music Center of Los Angeles County/interior: Federico Zignani; san diego zoo: Ken Bohn; golden gate state park: phillip coblentz, carol simowitz, jerry lee hayes: all courtesy sfcvb; hammer museum: Elon Schoenholz, courtesy Hammer Museum, Los Angeles Burgers now likely a Pinkberry frozen yogurt store within walking distance of wherever you are reading this magazine. Believe the hype: The tangy, smooth dessert is simply that good. pinkberry.com. french laundry: Deborah Jones; heirloom tomatoes and meyer lemons: istockphoto.com 5 Top good pizza to CA when he opened Pizzaiolo, a Neapolitan-style pizzeria last summer on Oakland’s Telegraph Avenue. The wood-fired pizza crust is so thin and delectable that you’ll be compelled to order more for the table, while the Margherita di Bufala and Homemade Sausage pizzas are top sellers. 5008 Telegraph Ave., Oakland, 510-6524888; pizzaiolo.us. San Jacinto Ridgeline Hikes Surfing might be the more famous pastime, but Golden Staters are more than passionate about their hikes. Here, the five standout trails: Paseo Miramar, Pacific Palisades. This path offers the most gorgeous view of all of Southern California, from Palos Verdes to the Channel Islands. San Jacinto Ridgeline, Palm Springs. Take the Palm Springs tram and watch as sand mirac ulously turns to snow. Mount Tam, San Francisco. Redwood groves, oak woodlands, and, yes, wireless internet access awaits at the ranger station. McNee Ranch State Park, Half Moon Bay. Enjoy spectacular views of Montara State Beach and its ocean cliffs within the first mile. Yosemite National Park, High Sierras. There’s not a bad view to be found in the Valley, and for the less sporting types, hiking over to the bar at the stately, historical Ahwahnee Lodge may be just the thing. Recreation Secret Garden The themed botanical gardens gracing the former estate of Madame Ganna Walska, known as Lotusland, are bound to inspire—and not just the horticulturists who trek from around the world to study the exotic species dotting its 37 acres. Though the Japanesethemed koi ponds are best known, the butterfly gardens and topiary mazes make for a day trip of quiet meditation. Mid-February through November, Wednesday through Saturday, by appointment, Montecito, 805-969-9990; lotusland.org. Hundreds of cars and auto enthusiasts (with Peet’s coffees in hand) park their rare wheels at the Ford campus in Irvine on Saturday mornings from 7 to 9 am. With 400 exhibit spaces, check out everything from Lambos to vintage Caddies, fins and all. 7905 Gateway Blvd., Irvine. full-service maintenance of their museum-quality rides. detail301.com. Dog Park public Swimming Pool Nestled in the Hollywood Hills, Runyon Canyon puts typical fenced-in dog runs to shame. This 130-acre urban park allows pooches to frolic off-leash while owners climb twisting trails and take in views from downtown to the beach. runyon-canyon.com. In a state full of superior swimming facilities, the People Watching Rose Bowl Aquatics Center is in a league of its own. Diehard lap swimmers from around the L.A. area flock to the center’s pair of eight-lane, 50-meterlength pools. 360 N. Arroyo Blvd., Pasadena; rosebowlaquatics.org. Animal Attraction Just as a pair of Vermeers renders any museum toprate, pandas in residence give zoos an extra edge. And in the case of the San Diego Zoo, its four giant pandas on display push an already superlative institution into stellar territory. 619-234-3153; sandiegozoo.com. Vintage Car Guru Retro automotive gems like ’57 Thunderbirds and ’65 E-types require a unique level of devotion. Southland classic car enthusiasts like Jay Leno and Nic Cage turn to the wizards of Detail 301 for Seasonal Delicacies Winter Mendocino County has a festival to celebrate Dungeness Crab, the plump crustacean indigenous to the West Coast. Skip the crab cakes and filler; go straight for the sweet meat. Spring In Point Reyes Station, Cowgirl Creamery heralds the spring with St. Pat Cheese, a distinctive mellow round wrapped in green nettle leaves to impart an earthy hint of artichoke. cowgirlcreamery.com. Summer Any farmers’ market will undoubtedly boast a dizzying selection from 500-plus varieties of Heirloom Tomatoes, those alien-shaped, organic reminders of California’s agricultural bounty. Fall Here, the deliciously un-tart Meyer Lemon (equally useful for sweet or savory cooking) reminds that in California, what’s a prized commodity elsewhere grows on trees practically everywhere you look. Whether it’s Miuccia Prada chatting about art in an alcove or Lindsay Lohan gliding around the patio dining area, a broad constel lation of stars are routinely on display at Hollywood’s Chateau Marmont. Because the landmark hotel feels like a low-key but glam apartment building, highprofile guests readily let their hair down here. 8221 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 323-656-1010; chateaumarmont.com. Walt Disney Concert Hall San Diego Zoo Movie Theater It’s only fitting that the film capital of the world boast a world-class movie palace. With reserved seats ($14 a pop), gener ously sized screens and well-informed ushers to keep things running, seeing a movie at the ArcLight Cinemas Hollywood is the entertainment equivalent of shopping at Hermès: pricey, but a pleasure. 6360 W. Sunset Blvd., Hollywood; arclightcinemas.com. Golden Gate Park Hammer Museum Acoustics Tourists flock to downtown L.A.’s Walt Disney Concert Hall to marvel at its undulating exterior, but music aficionados are more wild about the building’s carefully calibrated interior, which produces some of the most intimate and vivid sound in the world. musiccenter.org. ArcLight Cinemas City Park With 174 acres more than New York’s vast Central Mammoth Mountain C 00 Fred Segal Flair The Armand Hammer Museum of Art and Culture Center, which is part of Westwood’s UCLA, has quietly remade itself into the best contemporary art museum in the West. Its Hammer Projects series is committed to showing young, emerging artists, many of them homegrown and refined at California’s renowned art institutions like UCLA, CalArts, UC Irvine and the Art Center of Pasadena. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., Westwood; hammer.ucla.edu. Ski Run After a fresh coating of powder, there’s nothing more euphoric than carving a path down the wide-open backside of Mammoth Mountain (chairs 13 and 14). With views of June Mountain, the Minarets and onto Yosemite, the long rolling runs of varying difficulty are also a welcome relief from the crowds. mammothmountain.com. Big Wave Surfing A half-mile off Half Moon Bay, the legendary Outdoor Concert Venue its notorious 50-foot crests, is possibly the best big wave in the world. With jagged rocks looming, strong currents and frigid waters, the ground-shaking swell has been attracting surfers since legend Jeff Clark first caught its break in the ’60s. mavsurfer.com. The Santa Barbara Bowl shopping Luxury Destination Art lovers have the Louvre, and shoppers have South Coast Plaza, a 2.8 million square-foot retail mecca. With sales topping $1.4 billion annually and West Coast exclusive stores like Pucci, Chloé, Jo Malone and Giuseppe Zanotti, South Coast offers more than 240 exquisitely tempting boutiques. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 800-782-8888; southcoastplaza.com. Bikinis British cult swimwear designer Melissa Odabash teamed up with Malibu gal-about-town Diana Jenkins to open this chic showroom, which counts Cindy Crawford, Gwyneth Paltrow and Gabrielle Lotusland C 66 attracts headliners including Dave Matthews, Sheryl Crow, John Mayer and Norah Jones with an intimate ambiance (a capacity of just 4,562) and the magic of nature set into the foothills. 1122 N. Milpas, Santa Barbara, 805-962-7411; sbbowl.com. Reese as fans. Each twopiece strikes a perfect balance between sex appeal and sophistication. Malibu Country Mart, Malibu, 310-456-9060; odabash.com. Dressing Room Leave it to Prada to elevate changing rooms to an entirely new level. The space-aged capsules in the company’s Rodeo flagship allow shoppers to click through runway images on flat screens and see themselves in a hightech rearview mirror. 343 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-278-8661. Top 5 Exquisite Gifts This quintet of boutiques stocks exactly what to get for the person who has everything, from refined decor objets to luscious linens. De Vera, San Francisco. Insiders line up for found treasures like delicate vintage Murano glass bowls and poignant antique Spanish saint figurines. 29 Maiden Ln., 415-788-0828; devera objects.com. Maison K, Santa Barbara. This quaint shop imports all things chic: bone-handle pitchers and accessories, jewelry and delicate glassware. 1253 Coast Village Rd., 805969-1676; maisonkinc.com. Rose, Venice. Eclectic and inspiring decorative curiosities fill this jewel- Dressed 5 Top Susan of Burlingame Fashion Boutiques Each of these independent purveyors of top runway fashions presents unique perspective on style— something California women rely on season after season. Susan of Burlingame. A NoCal institution since 1983 with chic musts like Rodarte, Balenciaga and Lanvin. 1403 Burlingame Ave., 650-347-0452. Fred Segal, Santa Monica. Westside L.A.’s HQ for of-the-moment picks like Proenza Schouler and Alexander McQueen. 420 Broadway, 310-4589940; fredsegal.com. Maxfield, Los Angeles. A style-setting source for on-the-cusp finds, ranging from Rick Owens to Yohji Yamamoto. 8825 Melrose Ave., 310-274-8800. A’Maree’s, Newport Beach. Presenting runway gems by Dries van Noten, Zac Posen and Marni in a relaxed, beachy context. 1649 Westcliff Dr., 949642-4423; amarees.com. Dressed, Montecito. Santa Barbara insiders flock to this serene space for its mix of brands, including Chloé and Pucci. 11253 Coast Village Rd., 805-5651253; dressedonline.com. Hedge Gallery hedge: courtesy hedge Museum Mavericks surf break, with dressed: Photographed by Ian Jay, Styled by Devon Hay; lotusland: margot frankel Park, and the recentlyrenovated de Young Mu seum, a five-acre Japan ese garden, an arboretum, a windmill and a paddock of bison, S.F.’s Golden Gate Park is in a class of its own. box-sized boutique. 1225 Abbot Kinney, 310-3990040; roseinvenice.com. Jan de Luz, Carmel Valley. Exquisite French-style embroidered linens are the specialty of this classic Carmel store with a Napa outpost. 4 E. Carmel Valley Rd., Carmel, 831-659-7966; 1219 Main St., St. Helena, 707-963-1550; jandeluz.com. Upstairs at Pierre Lafond, Montecito. Choose from a bohemian mix of delicately edited and imported tableware, boudoir and antique garden accessories, as well as the charming childrens’ boutique within the boutique. 2516 San Ysidro Rd., 805-565-1503; upstairsatpierrelafond.com. Personal Shopper With a devoted global clientele and more than 20 years at Neiman Marcus, Catherine Bloom is known for her close designer relationships and her keen ability to dress clients, all from the buzzing environs of her private second floor office suite. Neiman Marcus, Beverly Hills, 310-550-5900. Bridal Registry: Famous for its gift registry and its endless selection of stemware, Gearys Beverly Hills has been serving the newly engaged of 90210 for more than 75 years. From Balcons Du Guadalquivir by Hermès to classic Spode bone china, they have it all…and then some. 351 N. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-273-4741; gearys.com. Tabletop Walter Lowry of Tart has delivered all one needs for the best-dressed table since opening his ultraelegant tabletop outpost in West Hollywood. Think Ted Muehling candlesticks, hand-painted porcelain from Meissen and Dibbern and the finest hemstitched linens. 7977 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, 323-6538278; tartontheweb.com. Paper Wanda Wen, ultra-creative owner of Soolip Paperie & Press, changed the letterpress landscape of CA when she opened her L.A. shop more than 11 years ago. Specializing in C 67 Trove cooking store unusual and decorated papers, personal stationery and invitations and custom photo albums and journals, they continue to dazzle their loyal clientele. 8646 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310-360-0545; Soolip at Gump’s, 135 Post St., San Francisco, 415-984-9311; soolip.com. 5 Top Vintage Decor Flea Market Gearys Free City Supershop On the second Sunday of every month, 20,000 bargain hunters descend upon Pasadena’s Rose Bowl parking lot for the world’s largest flea market. Although the bazaar technically opens at 9 am, professional thrifters and interior decorators with fancy La Cienega storefronts arrive at 5 am, armed with hand trolleys, cash and moving trucks. rgcshows.com. Hollyhock Everything old is new again at these chic and charming home decor stores. Hollyhock, West Hollywood. Appropriately housed in the old Tony Duquette design studio, Suzanne Rheinstein’s eclectic yet oh-so-sophisticated shop always pleases. 817 Hilldale Ave., 310-7770100; hollyhockinc.com. Trove, Laguna Beach. A thoughtful mix of vintage jewelry and antique home accessories. 1233 N. Coast Hwy., 949-376-4640. William Laman, Montecito. Filled with modern and antique tabletop, charming kitchen accessories and antique garden accents. 1496 E. Valley Rd., 805969-2840; williamlaman. com. Vintage Home, St. Helena. French antiques, colorful Ira Yaeger paintings, design books, and elegant table linens for wine country living. 1201 Main St., 707-963-7423. Swallowtail, San Francisco. Among the elegant oddities, look for vintage steel medical cabinets, 1920s medical wall charts, decorative vintage furniture and macabre taxidermy. 2217 Polk St., 415-567-1555. Sunset Blvd., 310-6598857; kaviarkind.com. Gump’s, San Francisco. The ultimate address for all things precious in the Bay Area. 135 Post St., 800766-7628; gumps.com. Silverhorn, Montecito. Specializes in exquisite custom creations. 1155 Coast Village Rd., 805969-0442; silverhorn.com. garden shop, dazzles loyal fans with custom, inventive arrangements of succulent plants and vibrant cut flowers in equally stunning architectural containers. 2329 Lillie Ave., Summerland, 805-5653831; botanikflowers.com. but they also soak up some of the shop’s ofthe-moment energy. 3868 Cross Creek Rd., Malibu, 310-456-5651. Luxury Watch Selection Tart Picking out the perfect piece of glittering wrist candy is a pleasure at Westime, a temple of fine timepieces with locations in West L.A. and Beverly Hills. Look for Harry Winston, Chanel, Omega, Chopard and TAG Heuer as well as many limited-edition watches. 245 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-271-0000; 10800 W. Pico Blvd., L.A. 310-4701388; westime.net. Jeans Birdwell Downtown Blackman Cruz Dragon Books Rose Top 5 Jewelry Boutiques No other store surpasses In addition to outposts of the world’s most pedigreed jewelry houses, California is also home to a handful of unique and widely influ ential independent jewelers. Martin Katz, Beverly Hills. The gold standard of Beverly Hills jewelers. 310276-7200; martinkatz.com. Neil Lane, Los Angeles. Young Hollywood’s go-to guy for rare gems with a light, modern touch. 310275-5015; neillanejewelry. com. Kaviar and Kind, West Hollywood. Avant garde antique and original creations that defy categorization. 8533 W. Hollywood Trading Company’s consistently stellar mix of denim labels, currently including A.P.C., Sweden’s Cheap Mondays, Cloak, and Rag and Bone. With the famed Denim Doctors housed inside the shop, you can bring in any pair of old jeans for resuscitation and hemming on new pairs is always free. 7383 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, 323964-0080; shophtc.com. Garden Store Nestled in Summerland since 1998, Botanik, a sophisticated floral and Concept Store Longtime Fred Segal buyer Nina Garduno’s first solo store in Malibu, Free City Supershop, is the kind of intoxicatingly cool environment that transcends shopping. Of course, people go there to buy her impossibly cozy T-shirts and sweats, Board Shorts When Carrie Birdwell Mann first stitched up a pair of soft but durable nylon surf shorts in 1961, a California institution was born. Still family-owned and operated in Santa Ana, Birdwell shorts, in a wild rainbow of colors ranging from watermelon to hot lemon, have a truly timeless appeal. bird wellbeachbritches.com. Botanik kaviar and kind: Alex Rogers; birdwell: lisa romerein; downtown: John Skalicky; dragon books: Nina Russo; rose: jon livingston; trove: Heather and Bobby Lee; hollyhock: lisa romerein Kaviar and Kind William Laman In Los Gatos for more than 30 years, Domus defines “specialty” store with an awe-inspiring, emporiumstyle selection of goods and gifts. From seasonal decorations to odd gadgets for the kitchen (bean Frencher-slicer, anyone?), you’ll certainly walk away with something you never knew you needed. 40 N. Santa Cruz Ave., Los Gatos, 408-3546630; domusonline.com. fireplace. Owner Jay Penske, heir to the Penske automotive fortune, handpicks the shop’s rare editions. 2954 Beverly Glen Circle, Bel-Air, 310-4418545; dragonbooks.com. All-around Bookstore For more than 110 years, Vroman’s in Pasadena has offered the San Gabriel Valley a booklover’s perfect pairing: comprehensive selection and a personal point of Footcandy Designer Shoes With outposts in St. Helena and a new locale in Brentwood, Footcandy is the ultimate haven for shoe fiends. Designers range from Christian Louboutin to Anya Hindmarch. 1239 Main St., St. Helena, 707-963-2040; 11934 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310-8204800; footcandyshoes.com. view. The largest independent bookseller in the state, Vroman’s is the archetypal community bookstore. 695 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena; vromansbookstore.com. Top 5 20th Century Style Modern design hits a high note at these cutting edge stores, all of which routinely set trends rather than follow them. Hedge Gallery, San Francisco. Home to a definitive collection of fine 20th and 21st century American and European furniture. 48 Gold St., 415-433-2233; hedgegallery.com. Blackman Cruz, Los Angeles. Owners Adam Blackman and David Cruz wrote the book on “macabre chic.” 800 N. La Cienega Blvd., 310-657-9228; blackmancruz.com. Benjamin Storck, San Francisco. Interior designers admire Storck’s trend-spotting selections of Michael Taylordesigned furniture, rare Poillerat screens, and alluring 1930s-era French chairs. 295 Kansas St., 415-863-1777; benjaminstorckltd.com. Downtown, Los Angeles. A truly original—and widely influential— assemblage of stylishly significant designs from the last century. 719 N. La Cienega Blvd., 310-652-7461. March, San Francisco. The source for eclectic vintage mirrors, ceramics, tables, upholstered furniture (often covered with glazed linen), and treasures from all over Europe and the United States. 3075 Sacramento St., 415-931-7433. Pet Store A refreshing kitsch-free zone tucked away in a cozy Venice bungalow, The Modern Dog appeals to pet owners who yearn for animal extras— beds, coats, treats or toys—that are both high quality and attractive. 1611 Abbot Kinney, Venice, 310-450-2275. Antiquarian Bookstore Nestled in a Bel-Air shopping center, Dragon Books is a woodpaneled temple of literary history, complete with well-worn leather club chairs and an 18th century Beauty Signature Pedicure Ask Cheryl A. Scruggs (she has tickled the toes of pop culture princesses, Donatella Versace and Jessica Simpson included, for some 30 years) at West Hollywood’s L.A. Vie L’Orange for an hour-long Walk on the Beach. She’ll do the walking as she soaks, exfoliates, wraps and polishes. 638 1/2 N. Robertson Blvd., WeHo, 310289-2501; lavielorange.com. Head-to-Toe Waxing Instead of the antiseptic stations to which you’re accustomed, Wax is a design- and quality-driven salon with male- and female-oriented services. This West Hollywood gem also offers a separate VIP entrance and house calls Looking for pedigreed furniture pieces? Each of these five resources is likely to delight with its authoritative assortment of old-school splendor. J.F. Chen, Los Angeles. There is not a decorator in L.A. who goes a week without a visit to the ever-changing space. To the trade, 8414 Melrose Ave., 323-655-6310; jfchen.com. Therien & Co., L.A. and San Francisco. Virtuoso pieces in Therien’s galleries range from Russian chandeliers to Portuguese gilded benches. 716 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310-657-4615; 411 Vermont St., S.F., 415-956-8850; therien. com. Europa Antiques & Fine Art, Summerland. This 11-yearold antiques haven run by Patrick Aumont specializes in Medieval, Renaissance and Baroque furniture and art. 2345 Lillie Ave., 805-9694989; antiqueseuropa.com. Quatrain, Los Angeles. Quatrain is admired in the design world for the quality of its antiques and the panache of its collection. To the trade, 700 N. La Cienega Blvd., 310-652-0243; quatrain.net. Ed Hardy, San Francisco. Antiquaire Ed Hardy has decades of knowledge of fine antiques under his belt—and his taste ranges from fine Chinese screens to gilded Venetian console tables. 188 Henry Adams St., 415-6266300; edhardysf.com. Ed Hardy 5 Top Antiques Dealers Ed Hardy From perfect blonde hues to sublimely subtle trims, chic Californians turn to these five hair destinations. Alex Chases, San Francisco. Overlooking Union Square, in an airy-white, lightfilled salon, it’s the mane attraction for S.F.’s elite set. 166 Geary St., Suite 1207, 415-397-5505. Billy Yamaguchi at La Costa Resort & Spa, Carlsbad. After a personal analysis by stylist, hair is cut and colored according to feng shui principles. 2100 Costa Del Mar Rd., 800729-4772; lacosta.com. Salon Gregory’s, Newport Beach. Known to have five coifs snipping and drying at a time, Irvine’s social set is fiercely loyal to Dusty Simington’s hip salon. 200 Newport Center Dr., 949-644-6671. Art Luna, Santa Monica. Clients fly from far and wide to visit this Santa Monica garden salon for tress treatments. 2116 Main St., 310-450-7168. Neil George Salon, Beverly Hills. Impeccable design and refreshing camaraderie among stylists lure A-list bombshells including Reese Witherspoon and Charlize Theron. 9320 Civic Center Dr., 310-2752808; neilgeorgesalon.com. Plastic Surgeon with a Conscience A Beverly Hills plastic surgeon who says “no?” So dedicated to his high standards, Dr. Bernard L. Markowitz (best known for his “natural” face lift) will refuse requests for multiple surgeries and won’t discuss even his most famous clients. 9675 Brighton Way, B.H., 310-205-5557; blmarkowitzmd.com. Specialty SpA Meditate in the Japanese Zen garden at Northern Sonoma County’s Osmosis after a nurturing rest in the only heated cedar enzyme bath in North America. At this (newly) fully sustainable green spa, the ritual, with some 600 enzymes imported directly from Japan, quietly calms and detoxifies the nervous system. 209 Bohemian Hwy., Freestone, 707-8238231; osmosis.com. Post Ranch Inn The Four Seasons Hotel, Beverly Hills’ fourth floor pool boasts the finest cabanas, most flawless service, perfect size (not too big and not too cozy) and stargazing for added amusement. 300 S. Doheny Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-2732222; fourseasons.com. Dangene McKay-Bailey has been looking at skin for more than 20 years, having worked with a cosmetic dermatologist before opening her own celebrity-packed, referralonly practices in L.A. and New York. While her selfdescribed specialties are acne, brown spots and scars, Bailey also has an eye for skin cancer (and she’s right 95 percent of the time). 9201 Sunset Blvd., Suite 500, Los Angeles, 310-276-7601. “Brow Doctor” Kris Levine fixes eyebrows that others have botched. She waxes and tweezes to find the natural brow, not Holly wood’s diva brow. And no three-month wait list, either. Art Luna Salon, 2116 Main St., Santa Monica, 310-452-1669. The world’s busiest general aviation airport, averaging half a million takeoffs and landings annually, Van Nuys Airport is top choice for private travelers in California. With two parallel runways, the airport is convenient, has an excellent safety record and provides a high level of privacy for high-profile travelers. 16461 Sherman Way, Van Nuys, 818-785-8838; lawa.org/vny. hotel Pool Medical Aesthetics Eyebrows Neil George Salon Private Airport Room Service Treat measured. Auberge is so spread out, it’s doubtful a stroll through the sculpture or herb gardens will turn up a fellow guest. 180 Rutherford Hill Rd., Rutherford, 800-3485406; aubergedusoleil.com. For those who need just a little bit of camping mixed in with their luxurious hotel stay, don’t miss the s’mores at the Montage Resort and Spa. The old-fashioned campfire treat comes with all the fixings and can be fired up on your personal balcony with a pint-size grill or done outside at the giant fire pit. 30801 Coast Hwy., Laguna Beach, 949715-6000; montagelaguna beach.com. Daring Decor Chef’s Garden Designer Jonathan Adler’s giddy bravado—think Peru vian wall hangings, suits of armor and acid green Chip pendale chairs—pulses throughout this escapist desert retreat. And unlike With Bacara Ranch Roasted Tomato Soup topped with Goat Cheese Crème and Eggs Benedict with Bacara Ranch Lemon Hollandaise on the menu, a guided hike through the beachfront Parker Palm Springs travel Room with a View A slice of heaven on the California coast, Big Sur’s Post Ranch Inn teeters on a 1,200-foot cliff, providing the most aweinspiring panoramas of the Pacific and its lush, mountainous backdrop. The view is unique to and unobstructed from each of its 30 eco-friendly cabinettes and rustic tree houses. Hwy. One, Big Sur, 831-667-2200; postranchinn.com. Hideaway Make an escape to Napa Valley’s romantic Auberge du Soleil, where a handful of maisons are dotted across a 33-acre hillside of olive groves, and the ser vice is the standard against which all others should be el capitan: courtesy El Capitan Canyon; plumpjack: art streiber Salons many tragically hip hotels, the Parker Palm Springs manages to put comfort and effortless service ahead of its groovy profile. As the ceramic frieze that hangs below the con cierge desk reads, “Eat Drink and Be Merry For Tomorrow You Shall Check Out.” 4200 E. Palm Canyon Dr., P.S., 760-770-5000; theparkerpalmsprings.com. neil george salon: ©2006 Michelle Schwartz 5 Top for ultimate privacy. 7924 Melrose Ave., WeHo, 323951-9616; waxla.com. property’s 1,000-acre ranch can be mouth-watering. The menus from each of the resort’s three restaurants are inspired by the 10-acre organic vegetable and herb garden from which they receive daily deliver ies. Bacara Resort & Spa, 8301 Hollister Ave., Santa Barbara, 877-422-4245; bacararesort.com. ing branches, the wedding procession arrives by way of fragrant gardens that bloom year-round and the couple exchanges vows beside Swan Lake. The Hotel Bel-Air’s secluded setting is indeed be the ultimate wedding locale. 701 Stone Canyon Rd., Bel-Air, 310-472-1211; hotelbelair.com. El Capitan Canyon Airport Hotel Restaurant Long Beach Airport is With the exquisite food of rising-star chef Dakota Weiss, the velvet-smooth manner of host Dmitri Dimtrov and the elegant decor by Paul Fortune, Jeff Klein’s Tower Bar restaurant at the Sunset Tower Hotel scores stellar marks on all fronts. 8358 Sunset Blvd., WeHo, 323-654-7100; sunsettowerhotel.com. reminiscent of air travel’s more hassle-free, halcyon days. At this pseudo commuter airport, where JetBlue also flies nonstop to the East Coast, parking fees are the lowest of any L.A. airport and security lines are as breezy as the open-air baggage claim. longbeach.gov/airport. Bacara Sunset Tower Ski Lodge Concierge From personally flying to London to retrieve a guest’s beloved beagle to acquiring the perfect prom dress or making impossibly lastminute dinner reservations, the concierge team at The Peninsula Beverly Hills will stop at nothing. They may well be the most connected people in a town where connections are everything. 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd., B.H., 310-551-2888; peninsula.com. Originally the brainchild of S.F. Mayor Gavin Newsom (now run by younger sister Hilary), the PlumpJack Squaw Valley Inn, an inti mate 60-person getaway, offers a whimsical alter native to the area’s ski-in, ski-out resorts. Personalized service, Balinese furnishings and the hotel’s PlumpJack Café—undoubtedly the best dining in all of Tahoe— set this boutique hotel apart. 1920 Squaw Valley Rd., Olympic Valley, 800323-ROOM; plumpjack.com. PlumpJack San Ysidro Ranch Suite The local lore of John and Jackie Kennedy’s honeymoon retreat at San Ysidro Ranch lures guests to this secluded cottage in the Montecito foothills complete with lush gardens. Ranch renovations have been underway, and the Kennedy Suite itself, with its two master bedrooms, living room, ocean view deck and private hot tub, is scheduled to be unveiled next month. 900 San Ysidro Ln., Montecito, 805-5651700; sanysidroranch.com. Wedding Venue Guests await beneath a canopy of trees and cascad Campsite Just bring your suitcase when “camping” at Santa Barbara’s El Capitan Canyon. Tented lodges, domed yurts and cabins near trickling creeks are home base; summer concert series, massages, hikes down to the beach or up into the mountains, and horseback rides are just steps away. 11560 Calle Real, S.B., 866-352-2729; elcapitancanyon.com. by Nathan Cooper, Jenny Murray Hooks, Victoria Namkung, Diane dorrans saeks, Andrea Stanford, Alison Clare Steingold and Jen Wang Chateau Marmont Four Seasons, Beverly Hills Hotel Bel-Air Auberge du Soleil