to The pale tablelands pdf

ThePaleTablelands
AJournalofEthiopia
By
SamMcManus
Inassociationwith:
CONTENTS
Maps3
TheSimienMountains5
FirstImpressionsandLalibela9
Afar12
TheGheraltaMountains17
Miscellaneous25
TheTembianMountains27
LakeHashinge&Tsibet30
Harar35
TheBaleMountains38
Epilogue44
2
MapofEthiopia
CulturalRegionsofEthiopia
3
“Ofthegladdestmomentsinhumanlife,methinksisthedepartureuponadistantjourneyto
unknownlands.Shakingoffwithonemightyeffortthefettersofhabit,theleadenweightofRoutine,
thecloakofmanyCaresandSlaveryofHome,manfeelsoncemorehappy.Thebloodflowswiththe
fastcirculationofchildhood.”
SirRichardFrancisBurton-FirstFootstepsinEastAfrica
“WhatamIdoinghere?”
JeanNicholasArthurRimbaud-writinghometoFrancefromAbyssinia
“Don'tcatchaleopardbythetail,butifyoudo,don'tletitgo.”
EthiopianProverb
4
TheSimienMountains
FiveminutesawayfromourthirdcampatChennek,athinridgeofrockjutsoutintothedeepvalley
below.Walkingalongadampfootpathbetweenmossyrocksenclosedbylichen-coveredtrees,I
emergedupontheza’atar-scentedplatform.Withsheerdropsonbothsides,theridgenarrowedand
fellawayinfront,taperingtoathinfingerofstonepointingduenorth.Lilac,crimsonandyellow
flowersjitteredinthebreezeamongstthistlesandnumerousmountainherbsandshrubs.Afull
kilometreacrossthevalleyonmyleft,fourmountainpeaksroseasacrownthroughthecloud.They
re-emergedbelow,fallingdowninthintree-linedsupportingridgesliketheflyingbuttressesofa
cathedral.Afewsandy-blackfacesofrockshowedthroughthethickfoliagewithoneortwo
escarpmentsisolatedbythecloud,theirtreesstandingoutassilhouettesinaChinesepaintingorthe
photographsyouseeinNationalGeographicmagazine.
Theridgesleddowntothreetinysoftmoundsofbrightgreenwherebarleyhadbeensownbythe
inhabitantsofthegrass-roofedhamlets,beforedroppingswiftlydownagainintothehugecleftofan
unseenriver.Curvedhornedibexsilentlydriftedacrossun-navigableisolatedbattlements,bathedin
shadowapartfromafewpatchesofgolden,movingillumination.Wherethefurthestridgeendedthe
vistadroppeddownandtookoffintoahazymirageofsunlitrockytabletopmountainsorambas,
Ethiopia’simpregnablenaturalfortresses.Theseworegreencumberbundsoffoliage,supportedat
theirbasesbythepaleyellowfieldsofteffthatgrowattheloweraltitudes.Behindtheflattened
pinnacles,vastwavesofstoneandburnishedforestmeanderedlikewind-blownsandtowardsanundiscernablehorizon.Immediatelytotherightofthetipoftheridge’sfinger,ascatteredvillagehad
terracedalushplateaufleckedwithjunipertrees;itsflowingcontoursapatchworkofbrightgreen
anddullbutter,dependingonwhenthefarmershadplantedtheirbarley.
Thefieldsendedabruptlyinadarktreelinelatticedwithpathwaysasthemountainmadeitswayup
tothecampinregularsteps.Thiswasabruptlycutofffromviewbyaperfecthorizontallineof
impenetrablecloudthatstretchedbehindmetowardsaballofblindingwhitelight.Beyondthe
plateauandafurthervalley,morevillagesrestedonruddyescarpments.White-headedeaglescircled
onthedampairdirectlyateyelevelorswoopedoverhead,theirlonggracefulwingsworkinghardto
mitigatethelackofthermals.Thesoundsfromthevillagebelowwereexaggeratedbythenatural
gramophoneofitssetting;childrenplayingonthedirtporchesoftheirgrasshousessoundingasif
theywerebeingattackedbybandits,theirscreamsformercyoccasionallypuncturedbythecallsofa
baboon,amidthegeneralstudiobackdropsoundsofbirds,beesandinsects.Isatonsomemosswith
thewindonmyface,writingthesesentencesinthepagesofmyjournal.
—
IhadspentacoupleofdaysmillingaroundthecastletownofGondartryingtofigureoutthebest
waytoviewtheSimienmountainrange.Manyofthetouroperatorsseemeddisorganizedandall
wereoverpricedforwhattheywereoffering.OverabeeratthebarinmyhotelImettwoyoungmen
fromIsrael,TalandElad,whowerehavingthesameproblem.Afterwehadreviewedallofthe
optionsopentouswedecidedtoorganizeourowntrip,andimmediatelyfeltlikeournewfoundplan
requiredsomesortofcelebration.Bygoodfortune,thatdaywastheSaint’sdayfestivalofMariyamn,
theVirginMary,andwecaughtabajajtoaneighbouringvillage.Wewereimmediatelygreetedwith
fantasticscenesofcelebrationonthemainstreet,linedwithcolourfulpapertassels,fullofpeople
laughing,chattinganddancing.Wewereinvitedintovillagers’housestodrinkhugebeakersorold
tinsfulltothebrimofthegreenmillet-basedbeertalla,andhadagreattimeplayingwiththe
childrenandmock-flirtingwiththeyoungwomenwhocrowdedaroundus,drinkingcupforcup
alongsidetheirmalecounterparts.
TalandEladhadheardthattherewasaJewishcemeteryjustoutsideofthevillageandafterourthird
housepartywerecruitedsomelocalchildrentoguideusthere,wherewerestedinthecoolshadeof
aeucalyptusgroveamongstblueandwhitepaintedtombsinscribedwiththeStarofDavid.The
5
historicaltiesbetweenIsraelandEthiopiaaresignificant.Inthe10thCenturyBCthelegendaryQueen
ofSheba,orMakeda,herkingdomsofAksuminnorthernEthiopiaandSabacenteredaround
present-dayYemen,travelledtoJerusalemonwhatwasmostlikelyatrademissiontomeetKing
Solomon,“withaverygreatretinue,withcamelsbearingspices,andverymuchgold,andprecious
stones”(IKings10:2).AfteralargefeastsheagreedtostaywithSolomoninhispalaceifhepromised
nottodoheranyharm,whichthekingagreedtoontheconditionthatshenotstealfromhim.
Versionsofthestorydifferhereandeitherfromthespicesofthefoodorfromhavingdrunktoo
muchalcohol,Makedaawokewithagreatthirstanddrankacupoftheking’swater.Havingbroken
heroathshecouldnotrefuseaunionwithSolomonanduponherreturnjourneyhome,borehima
son.SolomonhadgivenMakedaaringasatokenoffaithandafterherson,MenelikI,hadgrownup
inEthiopia,hetravelledtoJerusalembearingtheringtomeethisfather.
Hecouldnotbepersuadedtostayhowever,anduponhisreturnheandhisfollowersstoletheArkof
theCovenant,whichtheybroughtbacktoEthiopia,andisnowissaidtoresideintheChurchofOur
LadyMaryofZioninAksum.FromMenelikI,theSolomonicdynastycontinuedtoruleEthiopiauntil
1974whenthelastemperor,HaileSelassie,wasdeposedbythecommunistDergregime.Allof
Ethiopia’skingsandemperorsfromthisSolomonicdynastywerefromtheAmharapeople,whose
territoryincludestheSimienMountainrange.EthiopianJews,alsoknownasBetaIsraelorFalashas
(aderogatoryterm),alsoclaimeddescendancefromMenelikI,althoughperhapsitismorelikelythat
theyemigratedsouthfromEgyptafterthefirstexile.Fromthe16thCentury,EthiopianJews
inhabitedmuchoftheSimienMountainsas,aftercenturiesofwarringwiththeEthiopianChristians
kingdoms,thelatterrosetodominanceandtheBetaIsraelwithdrewintothemoredefensible
mountainrange.Duringthe20thCentury,manyifnotmostEthiopianJewshaveresettledinIsrael,
creatingalargecommunitythere.
ThenextmorningIgotupearlyandwentintothetown,procuringakerosenestove(Icouldn’tfind
anygasburners),waterpurificationtablets,pots,apan,platesandcutlery.Iknewwewouldbe
employinglocalsforthepark-enforcedcompulsoryroleofascout,andalsoadriverforamulewe
wouldneedtocarryourheaviersupplies,soIboughtalitreofthestiffalcoholarakewhichIknew
wouldgodownwellwiththemduringthecoldevenings.Droppingallthisgearatthehotel,myself,
TalandEladheadedoffintothelocalmarket.Thiswasawonderfulexperienceasweweresomewhat
ofanoveltyandgreatlyenjoyedbargainingloudlyandostentatiouslyforeachandeveryitem
includingpotatoes,lentils,macaroni,rice,spaghetti,onions,garlic,chillies,cabbage,aubergine,
spices,oil,coffee,dates,biscuits,chocolate,peanutbutterandsardines,withsacksandstringtoload
themule.
Peoplewouldcrowdaroundusaswealternativelyyelled,commiserated,begged,cajoledandfeigned
mockoutrageinfrontofhugesacksoffreshproduceoropenbasketsofkaleidoscopicallycoloured
spices,laughingatourenthusiasmandineffectiveness.WeheadedoutfromthetownofDebarkthe
followingday,muleintow,drivenbyasprightlycharacternamedMercabulFared.Ourscout,a
somewhatdowntroddenindividualnamedAlemuMereti,woreaflatcapandcarriedaPPSHSoviet
automaticrifle,date-stamped1944withCyrillicletteringandaboutfourbulletsinthemagazine,he
gaveofftheauraofanEthiopianElmerFudd.Thewalkthroughgoldentefffieldswasstunningand
afterafewsteepclimbswereachedthefirstviewpointoverlookingavastprecipice.KindofaonesideGrandCanyon,theSimienMountainsfallawayinalethaldroptoalongmountain-filledplateau
thatstretchesoffasfarastheeyecansee.Youaresohightheregular-sizedmountainslooklikesand
dunes,onlyoccasionallybrokenbyambasoftoweringrock,whichforsomereasonremindedmeof
theForeignMinistryBuildinginCairo.
ThereisasimpledirttrackroadrunningthroughtheNationalParkusedasasupplylineandalsofor
accesstotheremotemountainvillagesintherange.Thepathoccasionallycoincideswiththetrack
andatoneofthefewsectionswhereitjoinedwehadourfirstsightofatroopofgeladababoons.
Theywereideallypositioned,asifforaphotoshoot,ontheedgeofahugeprecipiceonagrassybank.
IkeptarespectabledistancebutTal,eitherfearless,experienced,stupid,downrightnosy,ormost
likelyacombinationofallofthese,lollopedrightuptothealphamaleonallfoursandsathimself
6
downlessthantwometersawayfromhim.Eladandmyselffollowedsheepishly.Thegeladaarethe
rarestofanimals;uniquetoEthiopiaandonlytherewithinthehighlands.Theirfurisexpertly
groomedinbrownwithblondehighlights,themalesdonninglong,lionesquemaneswith
handsomelytuftedtails.Theyhaveauniqueredopeningontheirchests,whichishairless,bestowing
theoft-usedsobriquet;‘bleedingheartbaboon’,aswellasquadrangularbuttockscomprisedoffour
leatherypads,whichseememinentlypractical.
Theyoungonescavortedwitheachotherinthesunshinewhiletherestofthetroopcompletely
ignoredboththemandus,preoccupiedwiththemorerewardingtaskofeatinggrass.Weskirtedthe
edgeoftheprecipicethroughlonggrassesinanortheasterlydirectionuntilwereachedourfirst
campofSankaber.Wepitchedourtentsonsomeflatgrassandusedoneoftheopen-airmountain
hutstocookupahotdinnerforourselves,MercabulandAlemu.Thetemperaturedroppedsharply
withthesunandweweretreatedtoagloriousglowingsunsetbetweenadeepwesterly-facingvalley.
Inthemorningwebrewedsomehot,sweetbunaandgotanearlystartafterbreakfast.Itwasn’tlong
beforethepathledoutoverathinrockybridgeflankedbybushytreesontoanaturalplatform,
overlookingavastlydeepgorgewithagracefulwaterfallspewingspringwatersintothehidden
depthsacrossthepassinatumultoftorrentandspray.Therewasagroupofeightorsotouristson
theplatforminsunhatstakingphotoswithiPadsandsuchlike,andwechattedwiththem.
TheSimienMountainrangeisthemostpopulartrekkingrouteinEthiopia,althoughunderdeveloped
byinternationalstandards.Infivedays,attheheightoftheseason,wecouldnothaveseenupwards
of35tourists,andthemonlyfleetingly.ItwasabakinglyhotdayandweallworeT-shirtswrapped
aroundourheadstoprotectusfromthesun.Anoxygen-gulpingclimbledusupandontothetrack
thattookusaroundthegorgeontothevastgrasslands.Descendingavalleywereachedtheriver
feedingthewaterfall,andtakingoffourboots,dippedourfeetintheicywatersandhadlunch.Some
villagersbroughttheirhorsesandgoatsdownacrosstheford,pausedtodrink,thencarriedon.They
wereshortlyfollowedbyatroopofgeladaswhoeffortlesslydescendedthesteepvalleysideswith
effortlessspeedandagility,babiesclingingontotheirmotherslikejockeysattheDerbyStakesrunat
EpsomDowns.Wecontinuedupthepaththatledthroughapicturesquevillageofgrasshuts,nestled
inthegrasslandsteppeofpaleburnishedcopper.
WeeventuallyreachedoursecondcampinGich,situatedhighupontheplateau,andweretreatedto
anotherspectacularsunsetastheslow-movingorbofthesundippeddownbelowthehorizon.
Childreninbeautifullymadeshammasofallcoloursandstyleswereplayingskip-ropenexttoour
camp.OneboyworedarkblueoveranorangeT-shirt,anotherdrapedinolivegreenhadturquoise
trousers,agirlworeabrownshammaoveracolourfulskirtofred,goldandturquoise.Atmidmorningwefoundourselvesonahighpeakwithoneofthebestviewsofthetrek.Weweresohigh
upthatthescatteredvillagesonthelushterracedplateau,mentionedintheopeningparagraphsof
thisaccount,couldbecoveredfromviewwithahandpalm.Cloudstartedtocomeinandbroke
behindusagainstthebulwarkofthemountain,alternativelyobscuringthenrevealingpartsofthe
view,addingtothemysteryandromanticismoftheplace.Hugeambasroseupbelowusinwild,
untouchedresplendence.WeheadeddownthelongwindingpathtoourthirdcampatChennek,the
cloudinpropernow;turningthechasmonourleftintoacold,dampwhite-out.
Thehighlandsonourrightwerestillfullyvisible,separatedbyagiantrift.Protrudingfromthe
escarpment,ashoulderofthemountainsidewasshapedinaperfectpyramidbydeepgullieson
eitherside,thevillagesrestingonthismarvelhavingterracedeverysquareinchsothatitfellawayto
thevalleyfloorinflowingrippleslikeaballgown.JustaswearrivedatChennektwogracefulwalia
ibexwereforagingaroundoneofthemountainhuts,oblivioustohumanactivity.Theyhadvery
large,thick-ridgedhornscurvingbackfromtheirheads,lookingmorelikemountainspiritsthana
normalanimal.Iwastiredandhadalreadypackedmyfilmingequipmentawaybutvowedtoget
somegoodfootageofthemthenextday.Ofcourseweneversawthemagain.Wespentthenextday
atcampaswewantedtoclimbMt.Bwahit,whichat4437misthethirdhighestmountaininEthiopia,
butitwascompletelyobscuredbycloud.Simienmeans‘north’inAmharic,andasthetrailcertainly
doesn’tletyouforgetit,wehadnorealobjectionstoarest-day.
7
Wespentitreading,writing,exploringthearea,followingmonkeys,bemoaningthelackof
photogenicibex,chattingwithlocalsandagroupofSouthAmericantouristswebefriended,and
generallywatchingtheworldgoby.Sittingonthedampeartheatinginjerafromroundstainlesssteel
trays,themenworeblanketsorbeachtowelsofunpredictabledesigns.Onehadadarkgreenand
lightgreenblanketwithlargeflowerspatternedonitaroundhisheadlikeaturban,anotherared
andpinkfloralblanketthatyouwouldexpecttoseedrapedoveryourgrandmother’ssofa,another
withorange,black,red,turquoiseandwhitediamondswrappedaroundhisheadthenthrownover
hisleftshoulder.TwogirlssatinthebackofawhiteToyotaPatrolintheiroff-whiteshammasasit
spedupthemountaintrackintothewhitecloud.Noibex.Alargegeladamalekeptstealinginjera
fromoutsideacookhouseandhadtobechasedoffbychildrenwithstones.
Talhadconsciouslyinfectedusallwithalocaldittywhichhewouldsingconstantly;“Ababaioush–
lemlem!”[Ihaveaflower–itisgreen],andwouldhavegroupsofchildrenandussingingthisand
clappingtimeforwhatseemedlikehoursonend.ThateveningIunwittinglyleftMercabulandAlumu
alonewiththearakebottleanduponreturningtotheshelterwefoundthemexquisitelyinebriated,
eachintheother’sarms,toppingupeachother’sglassestotheverybrim,refillingregularlyand
drinkingapace.Theywerehavinganabsolutewhaleofatimeandweheardtheirgigglingvoiceslong
intothenightastheyslepttogetherunderalargesharedblanket.ThetrailtoBwahitisapretty
straightforward‘up’,andwereachedthesummitafterafewhoursclimbthenextday,onlytobe
envelopedinafast-movingcloudagain.Wehungaroundforabitbutweregettingcoldwiththelack
ofmovementsowedecidedtoheaddown.
AfewhundredmetersorsobelowthesummitInoticedthatthecloudhadclearedoverthepassto
ourright,revealingabrightbluesky;“Comeonlet’scutacross,Ihaveafeelingwewillgetaview
fromthere.”ComingupoverthebrowwewererewardedwiththeviewofRasDashen,at4550mthe
highestmountaininthecountry,asafamilywiththreetired-lookingpackhorsesclimbedupthe
steeppathandcamepastusutteringtheusualgreetings.Itisagreatimmovableblobofamountain,
asortofJabbaTheHuttfigure,recliningoveraparchedvalleyofmanyfoldsofbakedsun-bleached
earth,alonevillageoftin-sidedhutsflashinginthesunlikealostcaravan.Itsmanydeepravines
drainrainwaterorsnowmeltintotheTakkazziandMeshaharivers,andalargecloudloomedjust
aboveit,condensingoverthesquatpeakasafeelingofhappinesswashedoverme.Itwasn’tthemost
beautifulmountainIhadeverseen,(Ihadheardnumerousreportsthattheviewfromitssummitis
somewhatanti-climactic)buttherewassomethingaboutit,itwascertainlyimpressive,Ijust
couldn’tquiteputmyfingeronit.ItwassomehowMongolian.
8
FirstImpressionsandLalibela
InAddisAbabaawomanlaborershoveledcementonthethirdflooroftheconcretemeshofasixstorybuilding,oneofthehugenumberofedificesinvariousstatesofincompletionthatbreak
throughtheundulatingwavesofrooftinthatlaparoundafewmodernhotelsandskyscraperson
theirwaytotheshoresofthefoothillsinthedistance.Thecorrugatedmetalsheetfencingaroundthe
constructionsitesarepaintedinalternatinggreenandyellow,apurpleblossomfallsontheroad
betweenbusylanesoftraffic.AttheUNbuildingthesecuritybollardswerebeingpaintedinanew
blue.Thethicklatticeworkofanancientacaciatreeshadedembassyguardsinaquamarine
camouflage,lazyAK47sdroopingovertheirshoulders.IglidedaboveitallontheChinese-builttram
system,listeningtothecompany’smarketingvideoinEnglishasrustyriversfilledwithtrashtrickled
belowandcarfumesfilledthealtitude-thinairwithhaze.
IlandedinAddisaftertransferringinNairobiwhereIhadchattedtoaKenyanfamilyalsoheadingto
thecapital.Theviewfromtheconnectingflightwasratheroverpoweringtomysleep-deprivedbrain,
dauntingeven,initsmagnitudeofscope.Verdantplainsandhugelakessoongavewaytotherising
plateauxofEthiopia,checkeredfields,villagesandbroccolitreescrawlingupthecliffsontothe
tabletopsteppes,throughwhichmountainstoreaway,drivingupshrubandstone.Itwasallsovast.I
hadthepeculiarsensationoffeelingthatthiswasanunconquerableland,whichIsupposeitis.Iwas
stayinginAddiswithsomeacquaintancesthatlivedinacomfortablecompoundintherichestpartof
thecity.Thisconvenienceemergedasadouble-edgedswordhoweverastheyhadbeenlivingin
Ethiopiaformorethanthreeyearsandwereimpatientlylookingforwardtoreturninghomeinthe
comingweeks;asaresultIwasonlyinitiallypepperedwiththenegativeaspectsoftheculture,
makingmyfirstimpressionsratherglumindeed.
Thankfullyafterafewnightsoutandhavingwanderedaroundthecityalittle,myoutlookbrightened
considerably,withbothEricaandherhusbandSarunascharmingandattentivehosts.Afterattending
anembassybazaarintheconventioncenteranddoingtheusualroundofbarsandrestaurants,Erica
offeredtoshowmethetwotownsshehadlivedinandwasreturningtoforafinalfarewell.Ididnot
actuallylikethetownsverymuchbutthejourneysbetweenbothweremesmerizing.Theroadside
truckstopnowheretownofDebresina[translation:Debra–Mount,Sina–Sinai]sitsat3200minthe
lapofasmallmountain.Ericagreetedoldfriendsandwesatinaroadsidecoffeehousecomprisedofa
tinroofwithcurtainsidesandcutgrassstrewnonthefloor.Thecoffeeorbunaisasdeliciousasthe
guidebookswilltellyouandwehadseveralsugarycupsperchedonlowstoolswhileagroupoflocal
mensataroundchewingkhatleavesatthenexttable,itsamphetamine-likepropertiesgivingaglossy
shinetotheireyesandageneralairofindolence.Debrabirhandidn’tfaremuchbetteralbeitwithone
exception.
Ericaguidedustothefamousarakebarontheoutskirtsofthelargertown,downacobbledstreet
thatsmelledofshitleadingtoavistathat,inthefadinglight,resembledanItalianlandscapefroma
MerchantIvoryfilm.Wewalkedintoaverylargeroomwithanearthenfloor,woodenbenchesand
tablesskirtingthewalls.ManypoorlookingEthiopianswithsun-blackenedfaces-givingcredenceto
theGreekoriginoftheirnameof‘burntskin’-sataroundthesedrapedinwhitecottonshammas.
Smallshotglassesinfrontofthemspilledalightamberliquidontothedarkwood.Childrenran
about,twoofthemhidingbehindanembroideredcurtain.Thearakeisdistilledtherefromgodknows-whatandcanreachupto80%proof.IfoundthishardtobelieveuntilItriedsome.Ashotis
threeBirr(itusedtobetwoBirr),whichisroughlysixCentsUSorfourPenceSterling.Whenyou
havefinishedoneyoueitherbangitdownonthetableindicatingyouwantarefillorturnitupsidedown.Ibangedminedownsohardthefirsttimethewholeplacelookedaroundandlaughed.Moreof
Erica’slocalfriendsjoinedus.
Onelittlegirlinsistedonkissingusonthecheeks.Ibeganplayingwiththechildrenbehindthe
curtainandtheygiggledasItickledthem.Theywereabrotherandsisternamed‘Kidus’and‘Eyrus’
9
whichtranslateto‘Saint’and‘Jerusalem’respectively.MezemirGirma,whoteachesatthelocal
university,quotedShakespearetomeandexpoundedonthefiveSourcesofKnowledge,being,inan
orderthesignificanceofwhichIdidn’tfullygrasp:Experience,Authority,Logic,Religionand
ScientificInquiry.Oneofhispreviousstudents,Genet,anattractivegirlof23inabobandtightfitting
dress,satnexttomeandwasadelightfulmixtureofextremereligiouspietyandflirtation.Asurly
manageratthecommercialbankwholookedlikeawrestlercompletedourparty.Thewallswere
coveredwithimagesofJesusandMarywithonehugemuralofthecarryingofthecross.
Thiswascomplimentedbyaneclecticcollectionofpaintingsfromanabstractartistwhocouldhave
beencommissionedbytheWarOfficein1945,withimagesofamanleaningonastick,therockhewnchurchatLalibela,afox,aleopard,azebra.Alargephotoofagirlholdingadovehunginthe
cornerwithanumberofphotosbyadoorwayofthelandladywhohadpassedawaytwomonths
previously.“Oh,IwonderedwhyIhadn’tseenher.”Shehadbeenmarriedtoanofficerduring“the
ImperialTime”(pre-1974).Wemovedontoatedjhousewithorangewalls,drinkingthehoneyfermentedbeerfromglasspotionbottlesandclappingtoalocalmandancing,beforegoingtoa
restaurant.Wewhizzedbacktothecapitalonagoodroadthroughplainsandterraced
mountainsidesofpastoralharvestscenery.Fieldswerefleckedasfarastheeyecouldseewithpale
fluffy-domedstacksofteff,havingbeenreapedbyhandthenthreshedbylivestocktoreleasethe
grass’finegrain,usedtomaketheinjeraflatbreadservedwitheverymeal.
Theteffispiledintoahugefortwithcattle,horsesordonkeysdrivenaroundinacircleontheinside,
pullingthewallsdownastheygotothreshthegrass.Men,womenandchildren,drapedinshammas
ofsimpledesign,squatinthefieldsusinghandsicklesofadullmetal,carefullylayingthegrassin
neatpilesbehindthem,allfacingthesameway.Fieldsofsorghumswayedinthesunlight.The
farmersarehighlyindustriousandeveryvisiblesquaremeterofarablelandwascultivated.The
grasshouses(sarbait)areroundwithdrieddungwallsorrectangular,thelatterasmalllonghouse
withtwotiedandfoldedsummitsofgrassratherthanone.Circularstonewallslinkthehousesanda
fewtreescreatingtinyhamletcompounds,whichcannothavechangedindesignformillennia.Tin
hasbeenintroducedandisusedformanyroofs(korkorobait)whichalthoughmorepractical,isnot
asromanticinappearance.Yellowandbrownfieldsleddowninscorchedripplestowardsrockstrewnriverswherechildrenwereherdinggoatswiththinpoles.
Circular,brightlypaintedchurchesatfirstglaceappearedlikeAsiantemplesnestledinthe
eucalyptusgroves.Eucalyptusisunfortunatelythedominantspeciesinthecountryafterhavingbeen
introducedbyMenelikIIforconstructionofthethennewcapital.Ithassincespreadacrossthe
countrylikewildfireandconsumesahugeamountofthesoil’smoisture,itsacidicleavesalsohaving
aharmfuleffect.Theyareundoubtedlypleasinginappearancehowever,withtheyoungershoots
risingupfromasoftturquoisetoapalepink,releasingtheirdelicatefragranceintothebreeze.Lone
acaciasshelteranimalsonthehotplainsorgrouptogetheringrovesonhillsides.Themountainsrose
upinatorturedsplendourwithferociouschasmsleadingoffintothedistance,exaggeratedlikethe
backgroundsofreligiouspaintings.Oneparticularlyenormousgorgeclefttheentirelandscapeintwo
inthehinterlandasifGodHimselfhaddrawnhisswordacrossthecountry.Itisabiblicallandscape.
Fourwomenwrappedindarkshammaswalkedinsinglefiletotheriverbalancingwickerbasketson
theirheads,childrenplayedathittingeachotherwithlongpoles,themenbathedunashamedly
naked.
—
Onethousandyearsago,asKingLalibelalayinapoison-inducedcomaatthehandofhisbrother,he
journeyedtoHeavenwheretheangelscommandedthathebuildaNewJerusaleminAfrica’sthen
bulwarkofChristianity.Hisstonemasonscutdirectlydownintothelivingrockofmountainsidesto
achievethis,thechurchroofsthereforeremainingatgroundlevel.Standinginthedimlylitcaverns
withyourhandpressedagainstthecold,roughsurfaceofapillar,youcanfeelthatyouaretouching,
andindeedinsideyourself,apartofthenaturalworldwheremenandwomenaren’treallysupposed
tobe.ThechurchesarenotasfinelycarvedasthecathedralsofEurope,nordotheyholdtheeyelike
10
thelinesofthearchitectsofGreece,andyet,sittingaloneinthepresenceofthesemonoliths,Ifeltthe
forceoftimecreepuponmequietly,likeawhisper,asconfusingasanun-rememberedmemoryor
thebriefgraspofalanguagewedonotunderstand,oroldbloodstirring;anindexfingerof
knowledgetouchingthesurfaceofasilverypool.Allatonceitwaswhiskedawayandforgotten,andI
wasleftblinkinginthebrightlightofday.
Walkingbetweenthehugemeter-thickpillarsofBieteMedhaneAlem,theaircoolandclammy,there
wasasuddenpowercutandIwasleftalonewithtwopriestsrecliningonthefloorbytheparapet
andamanprayinginoneofthecornersofthegiantedifice.Thereemanatedfromtheverywallsan
atmosphereofpeaceandindeed,holiness.Speakingtoafriendofafriend,anEthiopiancalled
SammieonthebalconyoftheSheratoninAddismonthslater,Irelayedthisexperiencetohim:“Ah
yes,”hehadreplied,“youcanactuallyfeelit.”ThesanctuariescontainingtheHolyofHoliesare
coveredfromsightbyhugecurtainshangingonweakaluminumpoles.Theserestuponthebrutish
stoneabaciofthesupportingpillars.Thecheapnylonofthecurtainsispatternedingaudy,shiny
spotsora1970srose-print,theirshoddinesssomehowendearing,beingofsolittleimportance
withinthegrandeurofthesetting.Thereisageneralramshacklefeelingtotheplace.Hugerugsten
meterswidehavebeenrolledupandleftoutsideinhollowed-outgrottos.
Menandwomenincreamrobessataroundincirclesontheflooreating,theircleftprayerstickslying
aroundatallangles.Powercableshungthroughthecarvedwindowsofanancientswastika.An800
year-oldolivewoodchesthasitsmissingfrontsectionreplacedwithplywood.Thewornfloorsare
coveredwithcheapcarpets,thinneon-tubedlightingmakingthesmoothsectionsofthewallsripple
likemercury.Candlesflicker.Someoftheceilingsarepaintedintribalpatternsandsomeone
somewherewasbeatingadrum.Themiddleofthreedeep-setwindowshasacrosscutoutofthewall
aboveit,thewindowtotherightofthisacutoutroundedarrowpointingtoheaven,theoneonthe
leftacutoutofaclunkyarrowpointingdowntohell:arepresentationofGolgothawherethe
penitentthief,SaintDismas,isacceptedintoheaven.Subterraneantunnelsleadyoutotheeleven
churchespastendlesscavesofoddsizesandindefinablepurpose.Apriest,sportingawhiteturban
androlled-upumbrella,emergedtoopenalockeddoorandletusinsideBieteAmanuel,theprivate
chapeloftheroyalfamily.
ItisthefinestexampleoftheperfectlysymmetricalAksumitedesign.Thesculptorshavecarvedthe
stonetorepresentwoodenbeamsthatrunalongthewallsontheinside,culminatingincubicends
thatparadeinalinebelowavaulted,crackedceiling.Sacredbeesbuzzedintheirhivehighupbehind
asmallwoodendoorintheverticalwallsoftherockcourtyard.BieteAbbaLibanosishewndirectly
outfromthestrataofacliffside,redcarpetingandbencheslaidarounditscavernousperimeter.At
thecornersofitsdoorsandwindows,hugecubesofstonejutoutintimidatingly.Largehidedrums
layonthefloor.Anornatelycarvedtablewasstoredupside-downinasmallcavehalfwayupthewall.
Alightbulbhungfromathincableemittingasoftradiance.Intheartofthefrescosandthewooden
framedicons,thelatterproppedupagainstwallsorleftlyingaroundinstrangeplaces,allofthefaces
areEthiopian.TheyarepaintedinbrightcoloursinthewaythatMexicanssometimespaint;shapes
andbodiesoccasionallymergingintoeachotherfornoreason,oriftheydon’t,theyjusthavean
unrealqualityaboutthem.
Therearethingsinthepaintingsthatyoudon’texpecttobethere.WhenSaintGeorgekillsthe
dragonthereisawomantiedtoatree.UnderadepictionoftheVirginMaryholdingalittleEthiopian
Jesusthedevilispaintedwithhorns,clawsandwingsoverflames;brightredmanaclesaroundhis
wrists.ThefourapostleslooklikePersiankings.ItisrainingwhenJesusiscrucified.Saint
MerkoriousisdepictedkillingEulianoswithaspear,hisintestinesspillingontothegroundwhilethe
AngelGabriellooksoninafloatingbathtubofcloud.Soldierswithdogheadscarryspears.God
himself,Abou,isawiseoldmanwithabeardflowingdowntohissandalsandacloakoffeathers.He
isflankedbydocilelionsandleopards.
11
Afar
‘Bettertodiethantolivewithoutkilling’.
Thesemi-nomadicAfar,situatedinthenortheasterndesertsofEthiopiabytheEritreanborder,were
forcenturiesfearedfortheirferociousnatureandwarlikeculture.LegendaryBritishexplorerSir
WilfredPatrickThesiger,borninAddisAbabathesonofadiplomat,maintainedinhismemoirsthat
themostdangerousjourneysofhislifewerethoseintheDanakilregionofAfar–andthisafter
havinglainstarvingtodeathonasandduneforthreedaysinSaudiArabia’sRub’alKhalibeforehis
Beducompanionsbroughthimdesperatelyneededsupplies.TheAfarireputationhascertainlybeen
enhancedbytheirtendencytocarryoffthetesticlesofthementheyhaveslainastrophies,
presentingafreshpairtotheirbridesontheirweddingdayasasignoftheirbravery.Thesiger,who
sawatleastoneyoungAfarmanflushedfromtheexertionofslaughteringandmutilatingfour
victimsinasingleday,commentedofhimas,“theequivalentofanice,ratherself-consciousEtonian
whohadjustwonhisschoolcoloursforcricket.”
Inthe10thCenturytheAfarcameintocontactwiththeArabsandconvertedtoaformofIslam,
mergingitwiththeiroldindigenousbeliefs,astheycontinuetothisdaytoworshipadominantskygod.Muchoftheironceproudculturehasnowbeenlosthowever.TheDanakilDepression,inthe
northernpartoftheAfarregionisthehottestplaceonearthintermsofyear-roundaverage
temperatures,aswellasbeingoneofthelowest,registering116mbelowsealevelatitsnadir.Asif
thiswasn’tenoughitisalsooneofthemosttectonicallyactiveareasintheworldresultingfromthe
presenceofthreetectonicplates,causingseverallavacraterlakestobubbleupfromtheearth’score.
Itisreferredtoasthecradleofthehumanoidsafterthefamous‘Lucy’Australopithecusfossilwas
discoveredherein1974,datedat3.2millionyearsold.Myself,TalandEladreluctantlyjoinedatour
grouptoscopeouttheregion,aswedidn’tparticularlyfeellikegoingthisonealone.Wesetofffrom
thetownofMekeleinaconvoyofsevenToyotaLandCruisersandfarmsteadsandrockyscrubcoveredfoothillssoongavewaytodesolate,enclosedplains.
Ablueskywasinterspersedwithcloudsandtheshadowsofthesemovedacrossthesandy
mountainsencirclingtheflatlands.ItwasChristmasDayandtheairwasstartingtogethot.Wedrove
upfromoneplainthendownintoanother,filledwithbrightgreenbushes,thenupagainintogreenfreckledmountains.Thefrecklesgrewintostrangecactus-treeswithcircularclumpsoffoot-long
tendrils.Thesewereinterspersedwithdragontrees[Sodom’sApple]asthemountainsstartedto
becomemoreimpressiverisinguptowardsthecloudandthentheygotreallygood.Everythingwas
paintedinpastelcolourswithridgesfallingdownintangerineorangeandauberginelilac,leading
fromfar-offshadesofemeraldandsilverglintingonthehighpeaks.Childrenplayedbytheroadsides
ofthetinytowns.Awomanwithpiercinggreeneyesstoodonahillside,aredandblackchequered
shammadrapedaroundherheadandbody,lookinglikeamodelinaphotoshoot.Villagerscollected
waterfromthethinstreamsmeanderingthroughwideriverplainsinyellowplasticcontainers.
Twowomenwerewalkingdowntooneofthesedressedindarkcolours.Onehadababystrappedto
herbackinasheetofblackcottonfleckedwithgreen,asimilarprintontheshammacoveringher
headandthrownbackoverhershoulder.Hercompanionworeablackheadscarfwithasilvery
latticeworkgrateonherforeheadlikeatinyportcullis,withabeltofsimilardesign.Despitethe
extremesparseness,filthanddrabnessofthesemountainvillages,bothwomenwereelegantand
carriedthemselveswithdignity.Themenworetheirshammasaslongskirtswrappedaroundtheir
waists,occasionallytiedupatthefrontatknee-leveltoallowgreaterflexibilityofmovement.Ioften
sawthemplayfightingorjustplainfightingwithoneanother.Thepastelshadesgavewaytolimp
watercoloursinthehazeastheplainsgrewlargerwithsmallhillsoccasionallyrisinguplike
breakers.Termitehillsandlonecamelsbegantoappear.Childrensheapardedflocksofgoatsalonein
thewilderness.
12
Therewereafewtinylakesforpasture.Someofthedwellingsweremadefromsacking,othersfrom
rock,othersfrombranches,orsimplypulledtogetherfromanythingelsethatcouldbesalvaged
includingthetinroofingfromanowderelicthealthcenter,andcartires.Oneyoungmanwas
standingoutsideoneparticularlybleakconstructionholdinganoldNokia-stylemobilephoneinhis
hand,aroundhimacompletedesolationofblacklavarock.Iwonderedwhathewastexting.The
plaingavealastgaspofundulationthengaveouttothedeadflatpanofthedepression.More
desperatelookinghamletsclungtothebrandnewroad.Ifoundithardtoimaginethelifeofthe
peoplelivinghere.Agroupofmiddle-agedJapanesetouristswerecampedbyalargesaltlakeandI
chattedwithsomeofthemforabit.Thesalinewaterispumpedintorectangularlakesatthreelevels
ofvaryingtemperaturestocrystalizethesaltthenevaporatethewater.Hugepilesofthemineral
wereheapedallaroundtheshoresasfarastheeyecouldsee.Itwasnotwhatyouwouldcall
beautiful.Thelocaltownlittlemorethanapropped-upshitholelitteredwithtrash.
Afterfloatingonthesurfaceofthesaltwaterinthesunsetwerinsedoffinthebakinghotnatural
poolofafreshwaterspring.SomeonehadlefttheirAK47lyingaround.Wesleptintheopenina
compoundontheedgeoftownongoathidelatticedbeds.Webuiltahugefireandgotverydrunkon
ouzowiththelocals,dancingarounditlongintothenight.ItwasChristmasafterall.Duringthenight
IrealizedIwasgettingamaulingbybedbugshiddeninmymattress,whichIsubsequentlyhurled
ontothefloor,sleepingonthebarehidethongs.ThenitstartedtorainsoIdraggedmybedin
underneathatinshack.“Itneverrainshere,”saidoneoftheguidesthenextmorning.Wedroveoffroadacrossadustyplainatthefootofalargeextinctvolcano.Thegoingbecamemoredifficultwhen
wehitalavalrockfieldandweslowedtoacrawloverthetrackintheunforgivinglandscape.The
rockwasextremelysharpandIwasamazedwedidn’tblowatire.Afteralongdaywearrivedatthe
militaryoutpostandbase-campforourascenttotheactivevolcanoofEtraAle.
WewereveryclosetotheEritreanborder.TothebemusementofmydrivingcompanionsIhad
managedtoconsumeacoupleofhundredpagesofmodernEthiopianhistoryduringeventhe
bumpiestsectionsofthejourney.Ihadlostcountofthenumberofinvasionsandcounter-invasions
overthecenturiesbetweenEthiopiaandhernortheasternneighbor,thelatternowkeepingherlandlockedfromtheimportanttradelinksoftheRedSea.Relationscontinuetobestrainedanddespite
thenonchalanceofourtourcompany,itisstillanunstableregion.Newsofskirmishesandarrestsare
restrictedfrompresspublicationbythegovernment.SomeGermantouristsweremurderedherea
fewyearsbackfornoparticularreason.Awareofthefacts,Iwashappytotakemychancesalong
witheveryoneelse.Thecommandpostwascomprisedofsturdydrystonehutspopulatedbywellequippedsoldiers.Camelsloungedonthegroundwithforkedstickslikedowsingrodsdowntheir
sidesforbaggageortwosetsofcrisscrossedpolesforpassengers.OneIndianfamilywiththree
youngchildrenoptedtorideinsteadofthethree-hourhike,thechildrenquiteobviouslyhavingthe
timeoftheirlives.
Wesetoutaftersunsettoavoidtheheat,amoderate35°C(temperaturescanreachupto50°Cinthe
summer)duetocloudcover.Afullmoonlitthewayofourtrackoverthelavalfieldasthevolcano
cameintoview,ascarletglowemanatingfromthetop,reflectedontheundersideofthecloud.Upon
reachingthesummitweencounteredmoredrystone,thatchedhutsandcamelsrecliningonfolded
legs,tiedattheknee,chewingthecud.Betweentwoofthehutstheflatsummitdroppedthirty
metersdownsomesteeprockystepstoviolentfoldsofdarkblackstoneandclinker.Ontherighta
peakjuttedupwardsina45°inclineendinginasheerverticaldrop,exactlyasIhadimaginedthe
settingoftheorctowerwhenreadingJRRTolkien’sTheLordoftheRings.Andthere,afewhundred
metersawayacrossthestonefield,wecouldseetherimofthehugelavalakesmokinggently,amist
ofangryredhoveringaboveit.
Itstartedtorain.“Itneverrainshere,”saidanotherguide.Westoodfacingthelavapit,withcold,wet
backs,thenturnedaroundsoourclothescoulddryoffinstantlyinthescoldingheat,thenrepeated
theprocess.“So,”Iheardsomeonesay,mirroringexactlymyownthoughts;“thisishowtheworld
wasformed.”Itwasahumblingexperiencetoseesolidrockreducedtoamalleableliquid,solidifying
13
momentarilyinathinskinuponcontactwiththecoldnightair,thencrackedapart,revealingits
shiningunderbelly,pulleddownagainintothedepthsoftheperfectlycircularlake.Therainhissed
asitevaporated.Thelavabubbledupontheleftsideofthelakewithapalpableforce,hittingthelee
oftheoverhanginglake’scrust,spewingthewallsandairwithtinymissiles.Thelavawouldthen
driftalongtotherightsidewhereitwaspulledbackdownintothedepthsoncemoreifnotcaughtin
oneoftheeruptionsinthemiddle.Themoltenrockshoneabrightamberandblood,ashypnoticas
theinnermostembersofalogfire.Afurry,lichen-likemossgrewonthebanksofthecrater.Theskin
onmyfaceburned.
Westayedforacoupleofhoursthenheadedbacktothecollectionofhutsintherain.Fortunately
theyweremainlywaterproofandaftergivingours(thebestone)totheyoungIndianfamily,we
foundanotherthatwasjustaboutwatertight.Themattressesthatthecamelshadbroughtupforus
wereallsodden,althoughIhadhadnointentionofusingthemanyway.WithgreatforesightIhad
smuggledabottleofouzoupthevolcanoand,joinedbyaFinnishcontingentoftouristswehad
befriended,wesatinacircletakinglongpullsofaniseinthenight.Oursleepingbagswerestilldry
andwegotafewhourssleepontheearthengroundandIhavetosayIsleptremarkablywell.During
theuneventfuldescentthroughableaksunriseweencounteredthemiddle-agedJapaneseposse
armedwithsunhatsandwalkingpoles,startingtoclimbjustasthedaywasheatingup.Althoughill-
informed,Ihadtorespecttheirpluck.Weembarkedonthedaylongjourneyouttothesaltflats,
arrivingatanotherarmybaseintheeveningwherewesleptoutsideonwickerbeds.
Theonlyhighlightofthedrivewasahugeeight-footwildostrichwhocamebeltingacrossthetrack
infrontofus,runningfromnowheretonowhere,itshugelegsworkinglikemechanicalpistons
kickingupdustandgravel.Astrangecreatureinastrangeplace,adesolateandhostileland.British
writerElizabethLairdspentmanyyearstravellingaroundEthiopiaincollaborationwiththeBritish
Councilcollectingfolkstoriesfromallofthedifferentregions,theexperiencesofwhichshenarrates
inTheLureoftheHoneyBird.AlthoughtakenfromthestoriescollectedintheSomaliregion(notto
beconfusedwiththeseparatecountryofSomalia)directlytothesouthoftheAfarregion,the
followingresonatedverystronglywithmeasIlookedattheyoungAfarigirls,consideringthelifein
storeforthem,andthesufferingofyoungwomeninthecountryasawhole:
“Theone[story]Ishallneverforget,oneofthemostremarkableIeverheardinEthiopia,expresses
inthemostpoignantwaytheterrorofagirl-child,barelyinherteens,facingherunknown
bridegroomonherweddingnight.Shewillhavealreadyhavesufferedabrutalandunhygienic
circumcision,herlabiaexcisedwithadirtyknifeorpieceofbrokenglass,andhervaginamayhave
beencrudelystitched,leavingonlyasmallholeforthepassageofmenstrualblood.Itwillbeslashed
openwithhernewhusband’sknifebeforehepenetratesher.Lookingahead,shewillsoonhaveto
facetheterrorofgivingbirth,whichmanyyoungbridesaretoosmalltosurvive.Thisstory…istrulya
woman’sstory.”[Duetoitsprotractedlength,Igiveabriefsummationofthestoryhere:]
Amanwenttotakesomecowsasadowrytothefatherofthegirlhewastomarrybutonhiswayhe
waseatenbyalion.Theliondressedhimselfinthegroom’sclothesandwenttothebride’svillage
wherehewasgreetedwithsongsandululations.Whenhewasfinallyaloneinahutwithhisnew
bride,Fatima,hetookoffhisclothesandwhenshesawhisfursheraninterrortoherfamily:
MyFather!MyMother!
Thisisnoman.
Ihaveseenhisfur.
Youhavegivenmetoawildanimal!
Butherfatherwasangryandtoldhernottobringshameonthefamily.Whensheprotestedhe
agreedtoatest:‘Inthemorningthevillagewillmoveinsearchofgrassandwaterandeveryonewill
shout“Thetimehascome!”andbegintopackuptheirhuts.Ifhedoesn’tshoutliketheothermenI
willbelieveyou.’Butthelionwaslisteningoutsidethehutandinthemorningheshouted:
14
Whyisthevillagestillasleep?
Whenwillthepeoplebegintowake?
Thetimetomovehascome!
Fatima’sfatherwasangrywithhersotheliontookhertomeethisrelatives.Onthewaythelion
insistedsheremoveallofherclothingpiecebypieceuntilshewasnaked.Thelioncalledahaltand
Fatimaunloadedthehutfromthecamelandsetitupwhilehewenttofetchhisrelatives.Sheknew
thelionwouldbringbackotherwildrelativeswhowouldeather,butthatshealsocouldn’treturnto
herfamily.Soshecutoffherlittlefingerandputitinthemortarandthensheranawayandhidina
treeinthemiddleofalake.
Thelionreturnedwiththehyena,theleopard,thesnakeandotherwildanimalsbuthecouldn’tsee
Fatima.Thelittlefingerinthemortarcriedout‘sheisnothere!’sothelionatethefinger.Arattold
himwheretofindthegirlsohewenttothelakewiththeotheranimals.Heclimbedtheropetothe
treebutFatimacutitandthelionfellinthelakeanddrowned.Alltheotheranimalstriedtoclimbthe
treebutsheplayedthesametrickonthemandtheyalldrowned.AbirdcametoFatimaandshefedit
adateinreturnthatthebirdflyandgivethefollowingmessagetohermother:
You,woman,churningyourbutter,
Yourdaughterhidesinatreeinthelake,
Andshecries,‘Oheobyo,Hogeobayo!
Howcanyoumakebutter,badwoman,
Whenyourdaughterneedsyourhelp?
Butthemotherdidnotlistenandittookalongtimeforthebirdtopersuadethefamilytocometothe
lake.WhentheycametheyaskedFatimatocomedownbutshewouldnotastheyhadgivenhertoa
wildanimal.TheyoungestbrotherprayedtoAllahtofellthetreeanditfellsoFatimareturnedhome
withherfamily.Shetakeshermother’sbutterchurnupontotheroofoftheirhutandiscarriedaway
bythewind.Whensheisdroppedsheturnsintotwosticks,whicharefoundbyaboywhobeatshis
camelwiththem.Sheentersthecamelasthesticks.Theboyisafraidandrunshometotellhisfather
whokillsthecamelandsearchesitsbellyforthesticks.Heisunabletofindthemastheyhideandin
hisangerhekillshisonlyson.Thesticksthenflyoutofthecamelandsing:
Imadeyoukillyourcamel,
Whichgaveyoumilk.
Imadeyoukillyourson,
Youronlyone.
Thisistheendofthestory.Laird’ssummationofthetaleisperhapsthemostchillingofall:“Thegirl,
terrifiedbyherhusband’snakedness,thenstrippedbyhimuntilshetooisnakedandthrowntothe
mercyofhishostilerelatives,willhavenosugaryfinaletoherstory.NoprincecoaxesFatimafrom
hertree.ShetakestheescaperouteofanOvidianmetamorphosis,and,inanechoofDaphne
transformingherselfintoalaureltree,sheturnsherselfintosticks.Therevengeshetakesisnoteven
againstherowncruelfamilybutagainstthefirsthumanswhocomeherway.”Butofcourse,girlsin
reallifedon’tgettomagicthemselvesoutoftheirsituation.
InthemorningwedrovedowntothesaltflatspastthelongestcameltrainsIhadeverseen.
Hundredsofthemmarchedoutinsinglefileintonowhere.Sandgavewaytodirtysaltthentoathin
coveringofsalinewater.Thecamelslopedthroughthisunfazed,theglareofthesunreflectingup
fromthefloor,encirclingtheirdarkmovingsilhouettesinthedistanceinanunrealscene.OurLand
Cruisersrolledthroughtheshallowscreatingsmallripplesofgoldensunlight.Wereachedanisland
andwalkeduptowardsnaturalsulfurformationsofbubbling,smokinggreenandyellowpoolswith
anabandonedrustingItaliansulfurworksinthedistance.Iwassurprisedatthesquealing
exclamationsofmanyofthetourists.EvenTalandEladseemedkindofinterested.Theeggyfumes
15
mademegagandretchandIretiredtoarockoutcroppingaloneoverlookingthewastelandtosulk,
justwaitingtogetthebloodythingoverwith.ButIhadonefinallegtogo.
SaltblockshavebeentradedandusedascurrencyinEthiopiaandthesurroundingregionsfora
millennium.TheAfardigandshapethesaltfromtheflatsoftheDanakilDepression.Loadingthemon
totheirhugecameltrains,whichtransportthemtotheinterior,whencetheyareloadedonto
donkeysforthehigheraltitudes.ThefurtherablockistransportedfromtheDepressionthehigher
itsvalue.Onaverageablockofsalt(theyarelarge,ataboutafootsquared)isworth45Birr(just
overtwoDollarsUS).AfaricuttersreceivefourBirrperblockshaped,non-AfaricuttersthreeBirr.
Thispaydoesn’tincludethetwoweekroundtripneededtotransporttheblockstobuyers.
Temperaturescantop50°Cinthesummer,makingworkingconditionsdeplorable.ThesevenLand
Cruiserspulleduptowhereahundredorsoworkerswerehackingsaltfromthebakingground,the
touristsjumpingout,shovingtheircamerasintheworkers’facestotakepictures.
Ifeltawkwardandmildlydisgusted.Onesharp-wittedcutterwithwraparoundsunglassesremarked
tooneparticularlyportlyGermaninakhakiwaistcoat:“Iliveonthemoon.”Iwentbacktomyvehicle
andsatintheshadeoftheenginewithoneoftheFinnishContingentwhowashavingasimilar
reactiontosituation.AnoverwhelmingnumberoftouristssaythatvisitingtheDanakilDepressionis
byfarandawaythehighlightoftheirtriptoEthiopia,someeventheirlives.Icouldnothavefeltmore
stronglytowardstheopposite.
16
TheGheraltaMountains
Inthemiddleofthe4thCenturyAD,SaintFrumentiusbroughtChristianitytotheAxumiteKingdomin
whatisnownorthernEthiopia.ASyro-PhenicianGreek,hewascapturedwithhisbrotherasaboy,
becomingaslavetotheKingofAxum.Uponobtainingtheirfreedom,thebrotherseducatedthe
King’sheirintheteachingsofChristianity,andFrumentiuswaslaterappointedasthefirstBishopin
AxumbytheCopticOrthodoxChurchofAlexandria,whosePopethenalsooversawtheChristiansof
Syria.AccordingtolocaltraditionthechurchesintheGheraltaMountainswereconstructedinthe4th
CenturybythefirstChristiankingsofEthiopia,AbrahaandAtsbeha,althoughitismorelikelythat
manyare6thCenturyconstructions,fromthetimewhenmonasticismwasspreadingthroughoutthe
region.Manyofthehermitagecaveswereexpandedtobecometheenormousedificesthatcannow
beadmiredflickeringincandlelightamidthemurmursofthecream-shawledfaithful.Thechurches
havebeenhewndirectlyoutofthemountainsidesbyhand,onlytheirslimrockpillarsleftinplaceto
preventcollapse.
Theyarefoundinhigh,remoteplacestofendoffwould-beattackersalthoughthishasnotalways
savedthemfromdestruction.Inthe10thCentury,theJewishqueen‘Judith’triedtoeradicate
ChristianitybyburningmanyofthechurchesandtheirvaluableChristianworks.Aninvasionledby
AhmedibnIbrahimal-Ghazi‘theConqueror’,aSomaliGeneralinthe16thCentury,alsodestroyed
manytreasuresandsignsofthedestructioncanstillbeseeninmanyofthechurchestoday.The
GheraltaMountainchain,deepwithinthenorthernhighplateauxoftheTigrayregion,ishighly
picturesque,andIsatonahighrockhillinthegardenofalodgetakinginthebig-skyviewofasunset
overthecartooncardboardcutoutshapesofthemountainsilhouettes.Itwasmarketdayandthe
hugeplaininfrontofmethrongedwithpeopleandtheirnewlyacquiredlivestock,walkingbackto
theirhomes.ThefollowingmorningahiredminivandroppedusoffoutsideSt.Gabriel’schurch,a
beautifulfreestandingstructurewithwhitewashedwallsholdingthreeequidistantdomedwindows
oneachside.
Agreenslantedroofleadsuptoasecondsectionofsquatroofingwithastubbytowerameterorso
high,paintedbluewithtwotinyredwindows.Ontopofthisandtoeitherside,threebulbousmetal
rodsholdbeautifullyornatesymmetricalcrosses.Themiddleandhighestofthethreeisasiftwo
crosseshavebeenslottedtogetheratrightangles,sothatyoucanseethesymbolfromanydirection.
Thisandmanyoftheotherchurchbuildings,whichareoftensimilarindesign,alwaysseemto
remindmeofTibetanarchitecture.IhaveoccasionallyheardEthiopiareferredtoas‘TheTibetof
Africa’,whichIdonotthinkanoutlandishstatement.IntrepidIrishexplorerandtravelwriterDervla
MurphynotesintheprologueofherwonderfulaccountofInEthiopiawithaMule,firstpublishedin
1968,that:“ThereisacertainsimilaritybetweenthedevelopmentsofEthiopianChristianityand
TibetanBuddhism.Inbothcases,whenalienreligionswerebroughttoisolatedcountriesthenew
teachingssoonbecamedilutedwithancientanimistsuperstitions;andsothesecuttingsfromtwo
greatworldreligionsgrewontheirhighplateauxintoexoticplants,hardlyrecognizableasoffshoots
oftheirparentfaiths.”
IhadhiredaboycalledBennieasaguideandtranslatorandwebothsaidgoodbyetothedriverand
alsoacheerfulpolicemanwhohadcomealongfortheride.WehadsharedajokeduringthetripasI
hadcomplimentedthepolicemanonhisbeautifullypatternedgreenandredsilkyshamma,whichhe
worelooselyinalooparoundhisneck.Hehadacceptedthecompliment,sayingthatitwasofthe
verybestqualitymadebytheAfarpeopleintheeast.Thiswasmetwithenthusiasticconfirmationby
boththedriverandBennie,whoexplainedthatitcostupwardsof800Birr[40DollarsUS];an
impressivesum.Thepolicemanunwrappeditfromhisneckandsplayedthematerialoutlovinglyfor
metoinspect.Therewasaroundstickerinoneofthecornersthatweallreadatthesametime-
‘MadeinChina’.Weallfellaboutlaughingastheminivanbumpedalongthesandytrack,althoughI
chosenottodelveintothemorenegativeconnotationsofthismicrocosmofthemodernworld.
Bennie’ssmilecreasedthetwinscarsoneithersideofhiseyes,acommonsignofChristianityhere,as
wellasasmallcrosseitherscarredortattooedinthemiddleoftheforehead.
17
Ourtrekbeganwithascrambleupaterracedmountainsidewithoccasionalstretchesofwinding
pathwaytounglamorouslygainsomeheight.Onceonthetoptheviewswereinstantaneously
fantastic.Wetrottedalongtheridgeofslopinglavalrock,alternativelylookingdowntotheacaciadottedplaintoourright,ortomajesticsepiapaintstokelinesofrollingfoothillsonourleft.Aftera
smalldescentwecamearoundasmoothbendinthetrackoverbrightpurplerock.Iremember
thinkingIhadneverseenabrightpurplerockbefore.Weascendeduptoourfirstrockchurch
throughthegatewayofthepriests’dwelling,alargedrystoneconstructionofsandyredrock;the
rectangularstonesplacedtogetheraswellasyoucouldhopetoseeanywhere.TheTigrayans,intheir
arid,rockyplateaux,mainlyliveindrystonebuildingscomparedwithmuchoftherestofthecountry
whom,intheirlusherpasturelands,usewoodanddungtoconstructtheirhomes.
Isteppedthroughtheroofedarchwayoftheouterwall,alargeironbellhangingfromasturdybeam.
Threesnottynosedtenyear-oldswereloiteringintheentrancewayandflashedinsecuresmilesat
me.Somewomenweresittingintheshadeofanacaciatree.Idroppedmypackandcarriedon
throughagapinastonewallalongathinpathleadingaroundtoacliffside.AsIroundedthecornerI
cameacrosssixwomenandanelderlyprieststandingattheentrancetoadoorwaycutintothecliff,
framedwithwoodenbeamsandathickdoorhangingopenwiththesoundofchantingandprayers
emanatingfromthegloomyinside.Thiswastherock-hewnchurchofYohannisMaqudi.Thewomen
allworecreamshammasandhadbeautifullybraidedhair;thinandtightlywovenindifferentangular
patternsdownonthefrontsectionoftheirheads,theirlongwavyafrocurlstheneitherflyingoutat
thebackinlargewavesorincontinuingcarefullyarrangedlinearfoldsanddesigns.Oftentheywear
asinglelargesilver-colouredearringhighupontheirleftearthathangsinanupturnedcrescent.
Oneofthewomengesturedtometotakeoffmyboots.Ididsoandwentandsatinasmallhollowed
outcavenexttothepriest.Everyonehadbarefeet.Thepriestworeacreamturbanandheldhis
horsehairfly-whipinarelaxedmanor,thesymbolofhisvocation.Hisfeetweresoblackthatthey
hadstartedtobecomedifferentcolourswithintheblackness.Irememberthinkingthatthatiswhat
theblackofablackholeinspacemustlooklike.Iwasstrangelyfascinatedbythem.Hehadakind
faceandsanginasoftmelodiousvoice.Atonepointeveryonegotdownontheirkneesandelbows
onthesandygroundtoprayandIdidthesameanditfeltgood.Aftersomesignlanguageitwas
conveyedtomethatIcouldenterthechurchifIpaidthenowregulateddonationandIdidso.Iwas
ledintoasecondcaveentranceontheleftwhichledthroughadarkcurvingpassage,arudimentary
crosschiseledontotheceiling.Thisinturnledintothemainchurchupoverasecondrock-hewn
doorwaybolsteredwiththickwoodenbeams.Insidethereweremanywomenandmen,alldressedin
creamshammas.Apriestwasintoningprayerswhileanotherheldaverylargelatticedbrasscross.
Thefrescos,paintedontothehand-chiseledwalls,werefromanothertime,anotherworld:menwith
swordswerearrangedinarowofhorsesreadyforbattle.Twodemonshadgotholdofamanand
whileoneheldhimupsidedownbyhisfeettheotherpokedhimintheeyewithaspear.Warrior
saints,thetwelveapostles,andFasilides,EmperorofEthiopia1632–1667,wereallspeakingtome
throughspeechbubbleswritteninGe’ez,theancientlanguageoftheEthiopianChristianChurch.
Theireyesallflashedmenacingly.Thepriestscontinuedtochantwiththecongregationoccasionally
murmuringrepliesinresponse.AfterthemassthewomenallfiledoutthroughthedoorIhad
enteredbyandsatoutsideundertheshadeoftheacacia.Themenallleftbytheotherdoorand
walkedtothepriest’squarterswheretheyandIsatonearthenbenchesaroundasunkenfloor.We
dranktalla,themillet-basedbeer,andatethespongyinjerawithachilisauceaseveryonewasfasting
forGenna,theEthiopianChristmastakingplaceinaweekorso.Theall-maleatmosphere,though
jarringstronglywithmyWesternassociationsofaChristiancommunityactivity,wasextremely
welcomingandhospitable;thepriestsshowingagenuinecuriosityinmeandmakingsureIwanted
fornothing.
Thechildrensilentlyservedtheirelderswithmarkeddeference.Thesizeofmypackwasthemain
topicofconversation,withthepriestsjokingthatonlyadonkeywouldcarryaloadlikethat.After
theheartymealandnumerouscupsoftallalater,weshoulderedourpacksandleftthecompound.
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Onepriestfollowedusout,loudlydemonstratingthatIshouldgivehimmoneybecausehehadused
thekeystoopenthechurch,theprotestationsofwhomIserenelyignored.Thereisastrange
contradictioninmanyofthepeoplehere,andindeedthewholecountry,whichIhadbeenunableto
consciouslyarticulateuntilcomingacrossanotherinsightfulpassageofDervlaMurphy’s:“…oneof
thestrangestparadoxesofhighlandlifeistheextraordinaryassuranceanddignity–ofaparticular
qualitynotfoundatalllevelsinEuropeansocieties–whichdistinguishessomanyofthepeasants.
Eveninsucharemoteregionasthis,andwhenconfrontedwithsuchadisquietingphenomenonas
myself,theirinnatecourtesyrarelyfailsthem.Yetinmanywaystheyareignorant,treacherousand
crueltoadegree–whichhasledsomeforeignerstodismisstheirmoreattractiveaspectasaformof
deceit,oratbestameaninglessroutineofetiquette.Buttomethetwoaspects,however
contradictory,seemequallygenuine.”
Wecamedownthroughalusheucalyptusgrove,overadrysandyriverbedthenuptheothersideon
apathcleftthroughsteepearthyorangeembankments.Asmallfreestandingchurchwasnestledinto
thesideofthecliffuponourrighthandside.Itstinroofandcrossontoppaintedinpleasingbright
colours.Abirddartedacrossthevalleywithoilyblackfeathersandbrightauburnwingtips.Aswe
cametothetopofasmallhill,thedrystonewall-linedfieldsofanidyllicvalleyopenedoutbeforeus.
YounggirlsplayingnexttoahugepileofteffwerescreamingtheirheadsoffasIslowlywalkeddown
thetrack“faranji![foreigner!]hello!farangi!hello!farangi…”asanever-endingwelcome.Thevalley
wasapatchworkofperfectlyleveledfieldsdottedwithacacia,oliveandeucalyptus.Cactiraninthick
groves,usedasanaturalfencingaroundtheproperties.Apeachsunsetwarmedtheskyinthewest
withraysofgoldslantingdownbeneathfluffycumulonimbusinshaftsontothevalleyfloor.Tothe
east,MariamBagulisha,agentlydomedpinnacleofrock,soredupfromtheflatgroundintoadreamy
sky,cartoon-likeinthehalf-light.Ifelttooetherealtobereal.
IfeltthatwhateverIhadbeenhopingtofindinthiscountry,thiswasit.Imean,thiswasreallyit.Isat
downwithmylaptop(Ihadratherstupidlybroughtitalongforthetrek)onmykneestojotdown
somenotesandsixchildrencrowdedaroundme.OneoftheolderboyscouldreadEnglishandspoke
outthewordsasItypedthem.TheyaskedtoseepicturesandasnoneofthemhadbeentoLalibelaI
showedthemsomevideosofthechurchesthere.Awomanofapproximatelyseventygreetedusand
welcomedusintoherhouse.Althoughwehadatentandthereisabeautifulcampspotinthevalley
byanolivegroveandwaterpump,wedecidedtoacceptherhospitalityandstaythenight.Weate
injeraandadelicioussavorypancakewiththeshirobeancurd,sippingscoldingsweetbunainthe
torchlightofalargewhitewashedroom.Wewashedourhandsandfeetafterwardsoutsideinthe
courtyardnexttoatetheredcow.Asmallacaciasaplingwasprotectedfromthelivestockby
oversizedwoodenfencingtoonedaygrowstrongandprovideshadefortheearthen-floored
compound.ItwasNewYear’sEve.Iwasasleepbynineo’clockonasmallearthenplatformraisedoff
fromtheflooroftheroom.
Inthemorningwesetoffthroughthepatchworkvalleytotacklethesteepascenttothechurchof
AbunaAbraham,thelargestintheGheraltaMountains.Locatedatthetopofasheercliff,thechurch
overlooksalongstretchofplainfarbelow.Itsinteriorisnothingshortofmagnificent;elevenhuge
pillarsoflivingrocksouringuptothevaultedceilingcoveredincolourful7thCenturyfrescos
showingthedeedsofAbunaAbrahamhimself.Benniegavemearundownoftheimages:“Onceupon
atimetherewasnowaterandthepeoplewerethirstysothesaintplacedpotsofwateronalion’s
backtobringtotheChristians,”ashepointedtothepaintingofthebeastabovethedoorway.“And
here,oncewhenhewaswalkingfromAmharatoTigray,alargelakepreventedhimandhisfollowers
fromcompletingthejourney,soheplacedthecrossattheendofhisstaffintothewaterlikeMoses
andthewaterspartedandtheywereabletocross.”Inthefrescodepictionhiseyesareshiningwhite
withaholylightashisstafftouchesarectangularboxofwaterwithfishpaintedatoddanglesover
thestone.Anotherdepictionshowsthesaintholdingalargeyoungmalelionsoitssmallerbrother
cansucklehismother.
Thepriest,holdinghiswoodenprayerstickandametalrattledidalittleprayerdance,murmuring
intonations.Bennietranslated:“God,Iaskfromyoufrommyheartthatyougivemegoodhealthand
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peace.”Upondescendingwefellinwithtwomonksandseveralteenagerswalkingthroughadry
riverbed.Wewalkedupthroughasmallriftastwomountainspeeledawayoneithersideofus.On
therighthandsideofthepath,acrossadrypebblyriverfloor,atroopofgeladababoonslounged
aboutonflatshale.Weallrestedatthetopinthehotsun.Oneoftheboysinsistedoncarryingmy
packtodemonstrateEthiopianhospitalitytotravellersandtoshowofftohisfriends.Dutifully
carryingitdownintothevillagehedidn’tallowthestraintoshow,althoughitistheonlytimeIrecall
seeingaHabasha[anEthiopianfromthenortherlyregionofoldAbyssinia]sweat.Afterasneaky
glassoftallaatthelocalinnwewalkedalongtheplainwhichopenedoutintograssland;acaciaand
sycamoretreessodelicatelyplacedsothatitlookedlikeaHollywood‘African’filmset,huge
stalagmitesofrockcreatingacowboybackdrop.
Weloungedunderthelargestsycamoretree,itsincrediblebranchesreachingoutoverfifteenmeters
fromitshugetwistingtrunk.Birdsofallkinds,coloursandcalls,hadflockedtothismarvelanditwas
adeliciousfeelingtolieinthelonggrasseatingpeanutbuttersandwichesandlistentotheirchatter.
Thiswouldhavebeenanidealcampsitebutitwasstillonlymid-afternoonandBennieandIfancied
somecompanyagainsoweeventuallyloadedourpacksandcontinuedon.ThatnightIstayedatthe
houseofHaile,amemberoftheguidingassociationintheGheralta.Hewasnothomewhenwe
arrivedbuthiswife,Gabriel,tookgreatcareofmealongsidehersevenchildren,eventhoughmy
arrivalhadnotbeenpre-arranged.AnimpromptuEnglishlessonbeganwithherdaughterTerhaus,
anincrediblybrightten-year-oldgirlinthe4thgrade,andhersonHamben,atwelve-year-oldinthe
gradeabove.TheywouldscribbledownwordsinEnglishthatIgavethem:‘House’.‘Cow’.‘Mother’.
‘Light’.Icorrectedthespellingandthentheywouldwritethewordsagainonthebackofthepaperto
provetheyweren’tcheating,althoughtheyoftendid,invitingsquealsofremorsewhenItickledthem
aspunishment.
Theircozyhomeismadeupoftwomainbuildingssurroundedbyadrystonewall,creatingthe
earthen-flooredcompoundcommoninmosthomesteadsoftheregion.Themainlonghousewasvery
largewithalargenumberofsheeppeltslayingontheperimeterseatingaroundthewallsorhanging
fromtwotreetrunkpillars.Twoflatraisedareasattheeasternendservedforbeds.Thewallswere
whitewashedwithaauburnstriprunningfromthegroundaboutameterup.Decorativeitemshung
fromthewalls;asingle-stringedmasinkoinstrument,skingourdsandcolourfulweavedinjerastands.
Oneitemofluxurywasalargegaslampsuspendedfromtheceiling,itstubinglinkedtoacanister
outsidethroughthewall.Thisemanatedasoftpleasantlightoverourclassroom.Afterwehadeaten
allthechildrengatheredaroundmybed.Hambentookdownthemasinkoandplayedwhilethe
othersclapped,ledbytheirmotherGabriel.Terhausdidalittledanceinthemiddle,wrigglingher
shouldersandstompingherfeet.ItwaslikearenditionfromtheEthiopianversionoftheVonnTrapp
family,andIhavetosaymyheartmeltedalittlebitinmychest.
InthemorningGabrielcookedmesomeeggsthenmadebuna,carefullyroastingthecoffeebeansand
wavingthesmokeovermyheadasablessing.Shestruckmeasahappywomandespitetheno-doubt
exhaustingworkofraisingsevenchildren.Benniecamedownfromhishousewhichwasn’tfaraway,
andwesetoff,thepathleadinguswestthroughavalleybetweenthecowboymountains.Wewalked
throughsomedeepsandbeforecomingtoagreenrush-filledstreamwherewomenwerewashing
clothesandfillingtheiryellowwatercontainers.Thepathwoundupthesteepmountainaboveus
whereworkerswereintheprocessofbuildingalargesetofstonestairsleadinguptoasmallchurch,
perchedhalfwayupthemountainside.Theyloadedthestoneintometalcontainersdrapedoverthe
backsofdonkeys,andhelpedtopushthepoorbeastsupthealreadycompletedstairs,unloading
thematthetop.Iwalkeduppastthemsayinghello,gavealittlejumpupontotheearthenpathatthe
topandcarriedonupthesteepincline,beadsofsweatrollingoffmyforeheadinthehotsun.
Ireachedtheentrancewaytothefreestandingchurch,asandypathleadingupfromastone-roofed
gatetowhereaboutfortymenandwomenweremillingaboutorsittingintheshadeoftheeavesof
theroof.SimilarindesigntoSt.Gabriel’s,ithadhundredstintasselssuspendedfromtheeaves,
makingapleasanttinklingsoundinthebreeze.Themenofthegroupturnedouttobeaworkparty
andshowedmetheinside,whichwasfilledwithmoundsofshoulder-highsand.Icamebackoutto
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findBennielookingpeakedafteraconversationwiththeworkerswhosaidthattheywantedto
chargeme200Birr[tenDollarsUS]toenterandfilminthechurch.Igotthemdownto50Birrand
wentbackinwithmycamerablinkingredinthehalf-light.Iwassurprisedandexcitedtofindthat
thefreestandingchurchactuallyledbackintoamassiverock-hewnhallcutintothemountainside,its
manypillarscurvingupandoutatthetopintoanexquisitelycarvedchequeredstone-cutpatternon
theceiling.Theirfrescosofthepillarshadfallenawaytotimeanddisrepairandtherewasmuch
erosionofthestone.Itwasherethatthemenwereworking.Itwasaveryauthenticexperiencetobe
inoneofthesemarvelswithmanybodiesmillingaboutaroundme,thechinkchinkofchiselsstriking
thestonefloor.
Themenwerelayingconcretetoleveltheunevenstonefloor,whichseemedtomeagrosserror,
albeitapracticaloneastheywantedtousethespaceforworship.Ialmostwalkedintoafreshlylaid
sectionandwasshooedawaywithlaughter.Isteppedpastseveralmenchiselingstonestepsintoa
smallante-room,carveddeeperintothemountainside.Ilaterheardmyselfonthevideorecording
saying“verygood”inastrangevoice.Itwasalittlecreepyinthere.AlleyeswereonmeandI
suddenlyfeltclaustrophobicandmadeabeelineforthecaveexit.Istoppedinthedoorwayand
turnedbacksaying“Amisiginalo[thankyou],salaam,ciao”likesomesortofawkwardcelebrity,
beforesteppingintothesunlight.ThemanIhadgiventhe50Birrtoofferedhisservicesasaguideup
andoverthemountain,thehighestinGheralta,intothenextvalley,whichwasfortunateasBennie
wasunsureoftheroute.Ihaveforgottenhisnamenowbuthewasahumorousex-soldierwitha
cheekygrin,andworeanoldcamouflagejacket.
HemadethemistakeattheoutletoftellingBenniea‘funny’storyofhow,tohismind,hehadgrossly
overchargedsometouristsforafewhours’workbytakingthemuptoseeasinglechurchinthearea.
HissmilefadedsomewhatasBennietranslatedandIslowlynoddedmyheadinsteadoflaughing,
realizinghehadmetaphoricallyshothimselfinthefootinthehopesofover-paymentforthisday’s
excursion.Wesetoffupthemountainandthewalkjustgotbetterandbetter.Soonwewerewell
abovethechurch,lookingdowntoseeitnestledinthesideoftheconicalvalley.Thenwewereup
andoutofit,stridingpastgiganticredfacesofsandstonecliffsthatleddownintoadeeprivervalley,
asilverysnakeofwaterinwideloopingchicanesmeanderingoffintothedistance.Weascendedup
totheplateauedsummitoftheMountKemmer,thehighestmountainintheregion,standinga
straightrectangulartabletopabovehisjumbledandunrulyyoungerbrothers;theirpeaksandcurved
promenadesjostlingandfightingforprominencebelowhim.
IwasremindedofthecommentofoneoftheBritishsoldiersunderGeneralNapier’s1867-8
campaignagainsttheEmperorTewodrosII:“Theytellusthisisatableland.Ifitis,theyhaveturned
thetableupsidedownandwearescramblingupanddownthelegs.”ItcertainlyfeltlikethatasI
sloggedupinthemiddaysun,althoughthe360°viewaffordedfromthetopwouldhavemadeit
worthwhiletwiceover.ThisBritishexpeditionintoAbyssiniawasaratheruniqueaffair.Upon
capturingsomeBritishsubjectsinordertogaintheattentionofandforceconcessionsfromQueen
Victoria,TewodrosII,alsoknownasTheodore,overplayedhishandbycontinuallyrefusingto
releasethem,piquingtheprideoftheBritishEmpirethatwasthenatitsheight.Atthestaggering
costofninemillionpoundssterlingatthetime,Napiersuccessfullyledanexpeditionintotheinterior
fromtheRedSea,resultinginthesuccessfulrescueoftheprisonersandthedeathofTheodorebyhis
ownhand;usingtheverysilver-engravedpistolQueenVictoriahadgivenhimasanearliergift.
Duringhisreignhedidmuchtouniteandimprovethecountryandisstillrememberedasaheroby
many,hisgoldenstatuetakingprideofplaceinthecenterofthecastlecityofGonder.
ThisrecollectioninturnremindedmeofthemomentIhadfirstdecidedtovisitEthiopia,whilst
sittingatmydeskinmyRichmondapartmentinWestLondon.Thelead-gratedwindowsglowedin
thesoftlightofafadingcrimsonautumneveningasIscouredmybook-linedwindowsillstoseeifI
hadanythingrelevantonthecountry.TheonlythingIcoulddig-outwasGeorgeMacDonaldFraser’s
FlashmanontheMarch,whichplacestheinsufferableFlashmanasthefictionalprotagonistinthe
historicalsettingofNapier’sexpedition.Ibegantoreaditimmediately,thenIranabathandcarried
onreadingfortherestoftheevening.Inararemomentofnon-self-servingpatriotism,Flashy
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commentsthatthecampaignitselfwas;“…justadecentresolvetodoagovernment’sfirstduty:to
protectitspeople,whateverthecost.”Igaveasalutetonooneinthebath.Asexpected,itwasthe
usualsexist,racistandpoliticallyincorrectaccountofthemisadventuresofthelecherousand
cowardlyswashbuckleronecomestoexpectfromalltheFlashmanPapers.AlthoughIlearned
absolutelynothingaboutthecountryfromtheaccount,itcertainlygavemeachuckleortwoand
whetmyappetiteforaspotofadventure,althoughIresolvedtobuysomeproperbooksonthe
subject.
ButIdigress:wecamedownoutofthesunandsatintheshadeofanacaciagrowingnexttoatiny
hermitage,chiseledoutfromadomedanthill-likesummitofstone.Weatesmalldrycakesand
vacuum-packeddatesimportedfromSaudiArabia.Iopenedthepackwithaseven-inchAustrian
army-issueGlockknifethatIhadonloanforthistrip,itsprimaryemploymenthavingbeenthe
spreadingofpeanutbutteroversandwiches.Ourscout’seyesflewtotheobjectandhegavemean
appreciativenod.Ihadnoticedafascinationwiththeknifebynearlyallofthelocalswhohadseenit,
manydemandingtohandleandplaywithit:fortheirruralwayoflifeatoolofsuchpracticalityand
workmanshipbeingaprizedpossession.Athinwalkwayhasbeenchiseledoutaroundthesideofthe
anthill,leadingtoasmalllockedmetaldoorway.Asmallcircleintheexteriorwallofstoneactedasa
windowandthroughthisIlookeddowntoseethestomach-churningdropbelow,curvingdownand
outtostalagmitespinesofsandstonepillarsjuttingoutfromthedesertlikeadinosaur’stail.
Althougheasilyexceedinga50-storeybuildinginheight,fromourpositionthesepillarslookedtiny
intheheat-haze.Encasedinthetallestofthesepillars,abouthalfwayup,isthemostostentatiousof
alltherock-hewnchurches;AbuYemata,whosenameIkeptforgetting,callingitAkunaMatata
insteadtoannoyBennie.Tomyright,atinyhermit’scavehadbeencutintoasheerfaceofthetable
mountain.Icouldn’thelpwonderingwhohadchosentoliveinthere,andwhat,ifany,revelationsit
hadaffordedthem.Afteralongwalkweeventuallycamedownintoaplainoffarmland,partingwith
ourguideandgreetingayoungboygoat-herdingwithhisfather.Wereachedthesmallvillageof
Agoza,whichmeans‘theskinofasheep’andrefilledourwaterbottlesatawaterpumpsurrounded
bycactiandthornsontheedgeofadrysandyriverbed.Whatlookedliketheentirevillage’s
adolescentcommunityhadcongregatedhereandwewashedthesaltoffourfaces,necksandarms,
jokingaroundwiththekids.
WewalkedacrossstonyfieldsofredsoiltothehouseofsomeofBennie’swife’srelations,wheretwo
sistersYeshi,17,andAbrihat,19,live.Theyarebothveryprettyandweenjoyedsittingwiththem
drinkingtallabeerthenbunafromfreshlyroastedcoffeebeans,eatingourinjerawiththeeverpresentshirobeancurd.Theirhousewasbeautifullybuiltwithatwistedolivetrunkasthemain
supportingpillar.Uponasking,Iwastoldthattheirfatherhadpassedawayaroundthetimewhen
Yeshiwasbornandtheirmother,astronglookingwomancalledNigisti,hadraisedthemherself.I
askedYeshiifshewantedtogotocollegeandshesaidshehadbeenworkingforaChinesecontractor
buildingroadsforamonthtosavemoneyforthisbeforehehadskippedtownwithoutpayingheror
anyoftheotherworkers.CollegestartsinFebruaryanditwillnowbeverydifficultforhertoattend.
Abrihathadatwo-year-olddaughterbutwasnotmarriedandtherewasnosignofthefather.These
trialsandtribulationsdidnotseemtobediscussedasifbeingoutoftheordinary.Yeshiworeablue
dressandhadherhairtiedbackwardsinbraidsoverherheadinaprettypattern,hersisteraloose
andbaggyT-shirt.
WithBennietranslating,ItoldthemaboutwhatwehadseenthatdayandaskedYeshiifshehad
exploredmanyofthemountains.Herreplywas;“Howcanwedothat,withoutafaranjitotakeus
there?”Itwasclearthatbothsistersandtheirmotherallwantedtomoveintoalargetownorcitybut
wererestrictedbypoverty.Abrihatsleptwithherdaughterintheearthenplatformnexttomine,
keepingwatchoverherallnightwithasolarlight.Asteepclimbledusoutofthevillagethenext
morning,thepathtakingusupthroughcactusgrovesperchedonthesideofsheerredclifffaces,
eaglesglidingaboveusonthethermals.Itwasyetanothercompletelynewenvironmentwithinthe
mountainchainandIcouldn’thelpgaspingatthewonderoftheplace.Wecamearoundthelastof
thesecliffstoanopenspotandstoppedforlunchwithashepherdwearinganenormouscream
22
turbanlikeasnakecharmer.WewereatthenorthernmostedgeofthechainnowandIcouldseefor
milesacrossthedesertplaintowavesandwavesofmountainsinthedistance,includingtheholy
mountainofAxum,crashingupwardsonthehorizoninsharpgreybursts.
WeeventuallydescendedtothechurchofAbunaGabreMickailKoraro,or,St.Michael’s,Bennie
havingpreviouslycalledaheadtothepriestonhiscellphonetocomeandunlockitforus.Arelatively
youngerchurch,itwasfoundedinthe17thCenturybyKingGabreMesker.Nestledinthesideofa
sheermountaincliffoflightgreystone,partsoftheexteriorarounditswindowsarebeenpaintedin
adarkcrimson.TibetanimagesofLhasaagainflashedintomymind.Weenteredandthefrescos
werethemostimpressiveofallthechurchesIsawintheregion.Withablueandyellowtheme,they
leapoutfromthehighvaultedceilingsandtwelvedelicatepillarsinacacophonyofmartyredsaints:
St.Peterishavinghisheadcutoff,St.Jacobisbeingstoned,hisbodyfillingupwithlargerocks,St.
Paulisbeingskeweredwithnumerousspears,anothersaintishungupside-down,anotheriskilled
withdogs.Allofthemhavetheirtonguespokingout.The12thCenturyhermit-saintTekle-Haimanot
isalsodepictedwho,inthemannerofananchoriteoftheearlychurch,stoodononelegin
meditationforsevenyearsuntiltheotherwitheredandfellaway.
Despitetherathergruesomesubjectmatter,itisacalmingplacetositinthecoolawayfromthehot
sunandthethreeofussatinthemiddleofthecavernaloneforquitesome.Weeventuallyheaded
downthemountainthroughadeepsplitintherock,fivestorieshighandjustwideenoughfortwo
mentodescendabreast.Wecameacrossabeautifulcampspotintheleeofahugenaturalcaveinthe
mountainsidenexttoanaturalspringbubblingclosetosomesmallfort-likedry-stoneruins.I
pitchedourtentandwehadasimpledinner.Asmalldirttrackledfromthecavedowntoanacaciadottedplainsmolderingthedyingsunlight.Inthemorningwewerecollectedbyourminivanand
drivenaroundtothebaseofthedinosaur’stailwehadseenfromthesummittwodayspreviously.
Fromthegroundlookingupwardsitwasacompletelydifferentexperienceanddidn’tlookalikea
dinosaur’stailatall;morelikeablockofNYChigh-risesinstone.
Ipracticallyskippeduptheshortascenttothebaseofpillars.Theascentthenbecameverysteepto
thepointwhereIwasclimbingwithropesandaprovidedharnessoveraparticularlytrickysection.
Uponreachingthetopofamassiveboulder,wedgedabouthalfwayupbetweenthetwolargeststone
towers,ImetasmallgroupofSpanishtourists.Ichattedwiththeirtourleaderforawhile,bothofus
equallyrejoicinginthebeautyofthemountainsandbemoaningourfearofverticalheights.Fromthe
topofthewedgedboulderwecouldseethatwindowsofAbunaYemataAtanGuh(“AkunaMatata?”)
hadbeencutintothesideofthelargestpillar.Togetinsidewehadtoshufflealongameter-wide
ledgewithasheerunprotectedverticaldropontheleftthatgoesdownmayhundredsofmeters,
althoughI’mnotexactlysureofhowmanyasIdidn’tlook.Thenyouduckinsideasmallroundhole
andagainyouareawardedwiththecool,damp,mind-blowinginteriorofaplacethatshouldn’texist.
Duringthelate5thCentury,ninesaintstravelledasmissionariestoAxumandwereinfluentialinthe
growthofChristianityintheregion.AlthoughlegendhasthemallasSyrianinorigin,manyhavebeen
tracedbacktoConstantinople,AnatoliaandevenRome.WelcomedbyKingEllaAmidainAxuminthe
north,thesonofthefirstChristiankings,thenine‘Syrian’saintsthenmadetheirseparatewaysinto
thecountry,foundingdifferentchurchesandmonasteriesastheywent.Oneofthenine,SaintYemata
Atan,cametoGheraltaandlegendhasitthatherodehishorseupthesheerwalltocarvethechurch
nownamedafterhim;hishorse’shoofmarksstillimprintedandvisibleinthestone.Forthoseunable
orunwillingtomaketheclimbthereistheequallyimpressiveoptiontovisitthechurchofAbuna
MariyamKoko,whichisashortdrivefromAbunaYemata.TheclimbismoreregularalthoughIchose
todothisparticularascentinthedarkatfouro’clockinthemorning.Thereasonbeingthatitwas
Genna[EthiopianChristmas],andIwantedtoseetheholymassthatisperformedthroughoutthe
nightfortheoccasion.
Aftermakingtheascenttothechurchbytorchlight,weweregreetedbytenpriestswhowere
standinginthemiddleofthebeautifullycarvedchurch.Oneofthemwasbeatingahugeleatherdrum
coveredwithcowhide,heldinplacebyathickleatherstrapoverhisshoulder.Hehadapointybeard
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likeaSpanishConquistadoranddidalittledanceashebeatbothendsloudlyandrhythmically.The
otherpriestsstoodaroundhiminacirclesingingandshakingtheirmetalrattlesintime.Wavesof
incensefiledtheair.Themusicwashypnoticandthroughamicrophonewasplayedoutfromaround
speakerwedgedinasmallhermitagewindowcutintothesideofthemountain,thewailingprayers
driftingdownthe400mclifffacetothehousesandfarmsteadsbelow.Theservicelastedallnight,the
prieststakingturnstodoreadingsorreciteprayers,whileotherssatorsnoozedonthewooden
benches.Onepriesthadgivenupcompletelyand,fullywrappinghimselfinhisshammasothathe
lookedlikealeper,satsleepingwithhisbackagainstalargestone-carvedpillar,hisheadbetweenhis
knees.
Iwentoutsideatfirstlighttowatchthesunriseoverthemountainchainnexttothetannoyspeaker,
apriestinturnwailinglikeaMuezzinthenprayingverylowandfast.TheledgeIwasstandingonfell
awayinaperfectlyverticaldroptotheflatTigrinyanfarmsteadsonthetablelandbelow,onmyright
theGheraltachainrisingtoattentionlikesoldiersonmorningparade.Beforethesunroseoverthe
horizonitignitedasmalllineoffluffycloudsdirectlyinfrontofmeinasearingcoralthroughtogold,
sobrightIcouldn’tbelievemyeyescouldtakeinacolourlikethatwithoutburning.Itwasverycold.I
waitedforthesuntocomeupwithmyteethchatteringandthewailfromthetannoyreverberatingin
myears.
24
Miscellaneous
IhaveyettoopenabookorreadatravelarticleintheFTonthecountrythatdoesnotincludethe
famouslinefrom18thCenturyHistorianEdwardGibbon’smasterworkTheHistoryoftheDeclineand
FalloftheRomanEmpire:“Encompassedonallsidesbytheenemiesoftheirreligion,theEthiopians
sleptnearathousandyears,forgetfuloftheworldbywhomtheywereforgotten.”Itperfectly
encapsulateswhatmakesthislandsounique,somuchfromancienttimesstillremaining.Although
themodernworldnowhasastablefootholdinthecities,whenoneventuresouttotheinteriorthis
thinveneerrapidlyfallsaway,unveilingtheunchangedsoulofthenation.Amanandhisyoungson
wereploughingaterracedwheatfieldbelowtheirgrasshutwithtwooxen.Theirfieldontheedgeof
asmallriver,thisfellawayoffthehighplateauinaseriesofthreewaterfalls.Theirploughhada
smallsharpmetaltiplashedtoitswoodentriangularsides,thelongbeamandploughman’shandle
comprisedofbark-strippedeucalyptus.TheyworeafewitemsofWesternclothing;ashirtanda
raggedypairoftrousers,bothinbarefeet.Asidefromthesefewtinyelementsthathaveseepedin
fromtheoutsideworld,thescenewastimeless.
ItisfairtosaythatittookmeawhiletodevelopanappropriateappreciationofEthiopia.The
beautiesofthecountry,awayfromthemoreobviousgrandeursofthecountryside,areofasubtler
nature,andtimewasneededformetoslowdownandadjusttoafundamentallydifferentwayoflife,
andthesingularflavorofthecountry’sromance.Ethiopiacanbedifficult,prickly,cutting,ruthless,
unforgiving,infuriating,stark,confusedandcomplex.Yet,likeadenselyconstructednovelexposing
thefundamentalcontradictionsofhumannature,or,say,thebrightplumageofafloweringcactus,
whenhertreasuresarerevealedtheyareallthemoreexquisiteforthecontraststhattheymanifest.
ThemostprizedformofAmharicproseandpoetry,looselytranslatedas‘waxandgold’,is
meticulouslycomprisedwithafocusonthedualityofitsmeanings.Thesurfacemeaning,thewax,
mustbestrippedawaytorevealthehiddencoreofgoldunderneath.InthiswayEthiopia’scharms
forceyoutolookdeeperwithinyourselftounderstandandfullyappreciatethem,withadventure
herenotyethavingbecomeaparodyofitself,makingitallthemorerewarding.
—
Ethiopia’slastemperor,HaileSelassie,renamingthecountryfrom‘Abyssinia’in1963,isworshipped
asagodincarnateamongthefollowersoftheRastafarimovement.Thenameistakenfromhispreimperialname:TafariMakonnen,withRas-meaning‘Head’,atitleequivalenttoDuke.Thereligion
emergedinJamaicaduringthe1930sundertheinfluenceofthePanAfricanismmovement,with
SelassieviewedasthemessiahwhowouldleadthepeoplesofAfricaandtheAfricandiasporato
freedom.WithhisSolomoniclineageandofficialtitlesofConqueringLionoftheTribeofJudah
andKingofKingsandElectofGod,heisperceivedbytheRastafariasthereturnedmessiahas
prophesisedintheBookofRevelationintheNewTestament:KingofKings,LordofLords,Conquering
LionoftheTribeofJudah,andRootofDavid.HaileSelassievisitedJamaicaonthe21stApril1966with
approximatelyonehundredthousandRastafarifromalloverthecountrydescendinguponthe
AirportinKingstoninahazeofganjasmoketogreettheirmessiah.Thisdateisstillcommemorated
bytheRastafariasGrounationDay,theanniversaryofwhichiscelebratedasthesecondholiest
holidayafterthe2ndNovember,theemperor'sCoronationDay.
ThecoronationofHaileSelassieinNovemberof1930wasapivotaleventthatcatapultedtherelative
backwaterofAbyssiniatotheforefrontofworld’sattention.BritishwriterEvelynWaugh’spersonal
accountoftheeventperfectlyconveystheuncertainmagicandbotchedbrillianceofthecountry,
withthefollowingpassagestakenfromRemotePeople,publishedin1931:“…Presentlywewenton
tothetent.Thiswasalreadywellfilled.Theclothesofthecongregationvariedconsiderably.Mostof
themenwerewearingmorningcoats,butsomehadappearedineveningdressandoneortwoin
dinner-jackets.OneladyhadstuckanAmericanflaginthetopofherhelmet.Thejuniormembersof
thelegationsweretherealready,inuniform,fussingamongtheseatstoseethateverythingwasin
order.Byseveno’clockthedelegationsarrived.TheEnglishparty,ledbytheDukeofGloucesterand
25
LordAirlieinhussarandlanceruniforms,wereundoubtedlythemostaugust,thoughtherewasa
verysmartSwedecarryingasilverhelmet…Thesixsucceedingdaysofcelebrationweretobe
predominantlymilitary,butthecoronationdayitselfwasinthehandsoftheChurch,andtheywere
goingtomakethemostofit…
…Atlongintervalstheemperorwaspresentedwitharobe,orb,spurs,spear,andfinallywiththe
crown.Asaluteofgunswasfired,andthecrowdsoutside,scatteredalloverthesurroundingwaste
spaces,begantocheer,theimperialhorsesrearedup,plungedontopofeachother,kickedthegilding
offthefrontofthecoach,andbroketheirtraces.Thecoachmansprangfromtheboxandwhipped
themfromasafedistance…Itwasnowabouteleveno’clock,thetimeatwhichtheemperorwasdue
toleavethepavilion.Punctually,toplan,threeAbyssinianaeroplanesrosetogreethim.Theycircled
roundandroundoverthetent,eagerlydemonstratingtheirnewlyacquiredartbyswoopingand
curvettingwithinafewfeetofthecanvasroof.Thenoisewasappalling;thelocalchiefsstirredin
theirsleepandrolledontotheirfaces;onlybytheopeningandclosingoftheirlipsandtheturningof
theirmusiccouldwediscernthattheCopticdeaconswerestillsinging…
…Therewasareviewofthetroopsontheplainoutsidetherailwaystation.Althoughwehadbeen
privilegedtoseealmosteverymemberofHisMajesty’sforcesalmosteveryday,thiswasastartling
displayforthose,likemyself,whohadneverseenamusteroftribesmeninArabiaorMorocco.The
menconvergedontheroyalstandfromallovertheplain,salutinghimwithcriesandflourishesof
arms,thelittlehorsesandmulesgallopingrightuptothefootofthethroneandbeingreinedback
savagelyontotheirhaunches,withmouthsdrippingfoamandblood.Butnocatalogueofeventscan
conveyanyrealideaoftheseastoundingdays,ofanatmosphereutterlyunique,elusive,
unforgettable.IfintheforegoingpagesIhaveseemedtogiveundueemphasistotheirregularityof
theproceedings,totheirunpunctuality,andtheiroccasionalfailure,itisbecausethiswasanessential
partoftheircharacterandcharm.InAddisAbabaeverythingwashaphazardandincongruous;one
learnedalwaystoexpecttheunusualandyetwasalwayssurprised.”
In1935ItalydeclaredwaronAbyssiniaandWaughwassentbacktoAddisAbabatocoverthe
conflict.HisacerbicaccountoflifeasawarcorrespondentinWaughinAbyssinia,firstpublishedin
1936,alsocapturesanimportantperiodinthecountry’shistoryaswellashernationalcharacter:“…
Thehighspiritsofthetroopsseemedunaffectedbytheweather.Inthecomingweeks,asthe
provincialarmiespassedthroughthecapitalontheirwaytothenorthernfront,weweretosee
severalsuchdisplays.FormostofthePressitwasthenanewexperience.Theoldchiefs,almost
withoutexception,lookedsuperb.Theirgalacostumevariedinmagnificencewiththeirwealth.They
hadhead-dressesandcapesoflionskin,circularshieldsandextravagantlylong,curvedswords,
decoratedwithmetalandcolouredstuff;theirsaddlesandharnesswerebrilliantandelaborate.
Examinedindetail,ofcourse,theornamentswereofwretchedquality,theworkofLevantine
craftsmenintheAddisbazaar,new,aimingonlyatmaximumostentationforaminimumprice;there
wasnothingwhichborecomparisonwiththesplendourofaNorthAfricanorAsiaticworkmanship.
Butintheirgeneraleffect,astheyemergedfromthewateryhazewhichenclosedus,struttedand
boastedbeforetheEmperor,andwerehustledawayinthemiddleoftheirspeechesbytheCourt
Chamberlains,thoseoldwarriorsweremagnificent.
Boastingwasaparticularfeatureofalltheseparades.Sometimesitwasdonebyspecialminstrels,
sometimesbythechiefhimself,whowouldspurhismuleuptothestepsofthethrone,reinitbackon
itshaunches,brandishhisspearandrecitethedeedsofbloodshedhehadachievedinthepastand
thoseheproposedtodointhefuture;sometimeshewoulddismountanddancebeforetheEmperor
withdrawnsword,chantinghisprowess.Ifhewereallowedtocontinuetoolonginthismannerhe
intoxicatedhimselfandinakindofecstasy,swordwhirling,eyesturnedup,beardandlipsspattered
withfoam,wouldconstituteaseriousdangertothosenearhim.(WhentheKambataarmycame
throughtheycutopentheheadofoneofthechamberlainsintheirenthusiasm.)Thegreaterpartof
theserecitations,myinterpretertoldme,dealtwiththefirstbattleofAdowa[againstItalyinMarch
1896,securingEthiopiansovereignty];mostofthepromisesofthefutureserviceweretauntsatItaly.
Vinciandhisstaffsatthroughthewetafternoonlisteningwithpolite,ifslightlyironical,attention.”
26
TheTembianMountains
ForarelativelyshortjourneyIhadquitealotofdifficultieswiththisone.TheTembianMountains
arelinkedtothenorthernendoftheGheraltaMountainchain,runningperpendicularlywestata
rightangle.Theyarepracticallyuntouchedbytourists,withtomyknowledgeonlyoneFrench
companyorganizingtwotripsayearthroughitsremoteplateauvillages.AlthoughIhadbeenhaving
somedifficultywithBennie,hewasoneofthefewEnglish-speakingpeopleintheareawhoknewthe
route,havingaccompaniedoneoftheFrenchexpeditionsasaporter.Unabletoprocuretheservices
ofaqualifiedguide,Ireluctantlyemployedhimforasecondtimetoexploretherange,aswellas
hiringalocalscout,asIfeltIneededsomeonewhoknewtheareawellasalthoughBenniehaddone
thetrekbefore,Iwascomingtorelyonwhathetoldmelessandless.Aminivandroveustothe
unremarkabletownofTembianwherethetrekbegins,stoppingonthewaybysomeirrigatedorange
grovestowaitforourarrangedscouttowalkdownfromhisvillageandjoinus.
Thescoutarrived,ahandsomeex-soldieroftheEritreanwars,inakhakijacketsportingacream
turban.HisnamewasBerhanuandalthoughnotparticularlyagedinappearance,Inamedhim‘Old
Berhanu’inmymindandwillhenceforthrefertohimbythisname.Wegreetedeachotherthen
BenniesaidweshouldhavesomeorangessoOldBerhanuranoffintothegroveandreturnedtothe
minivansometimelaterwithhisshammafullofgreen,hardoranges.Theywerebitterandfullofpips
butmybodywasgratefulfortheVitaminC.WecarriedontoTembianwhereIpaidthedriverand
openednegotiationsforOldBerhanu’spay.Thetrekwassupposedtotakethreedaystothetownof
KoraroandIbeganhagglingforthedailyrate.ImmediatelyIcouldseethatBenniewasnot
cooperatinginhisroleastranslator,alternativelybeingsarcastic,sullenorsimplyrefusingto
translateonmybehalf.Wehadalreadyagreedonhisfee,whichwasthesameastheprevioustrek
throughtheGheralta,andhewasmakingitveryclearthatalthoughwehadshakenonithenow
wantedaraise,whichIadamantlyrefusedtodo:assoonasyoustartmakingconcessionsorgoback
onanagreement,acrackinthedamwillbeexploitedtofulleffectbycontinuingtorrentsofdemand.
EventuallyweagreedonafairpriceforOldBerhanuandsetoff.Assoonasweleftthetownand
enteredthecountrysidemystressesfellawayandIbaskedinthegloryofanimmediatelyvariedand
interestinglandscape.Walkingupacrossaboulder-strewnriverandthroughagroveofeucalyptus
treesweenteredaflatspaceflankedbysmallhills.OldBerhanuspokeandBenniemurmured
somethingaboutthatduringthetimeofMengitsu’sCommunistDergcontrol[1977-1987]theyused
tolandhelicoptershereforsoldierstocongregateforlargemeetingsandcelebrationsbutupon
furtherenquiriesIcouldn’tgetanythingmorefromhim.‘Don’tpushit,’Ithought,instinctively
knowingthatmaking‘ascene’insuchanisolatedplacecouldonlydomoreharmthangood.Iwould
saveanyformofconfrontationuntilafterwehadfinishedthejourney.Idroppedbackandenjoyed
makingheightupasteepclimbonthelefthandsideofavastvalley.IcouldseethatOldBerhanuwas
certainlythemanforthejob.Hewasasspritelyasamountaingoatandalthoughwithoutthe
customaryAK47,hisiron-tippeddula,orshepherd’scrook,andtiestothelocalpeoplewouldprove
tobemorethansufficienttoensureoursafepassage.
Atonepoint,asIwaswalkingalonglostinthought,Isuddenlysawhimwhirl,dropandhurlastone
intoascrubbytreejustupinfrontofme.Thiswasfollowedbyacrash,thenaslitheringoffintothe
undergrowth.“Snake”hesaidinoneofhisfewwordsofEnglish.‘Well,’Ithought,‘atleastsomeoneis
doingtheirjob.’Upongainingheighttheviewwasmagnificent.Thevalleywasvast,atleasttwo
kilometersacross,withaglisteningrivercurvingthroughthewideplain.Ithadstrangecontoursof
rockthatribbedoutofitssidecreatingminiplateauxasifagianthandhadsewntheminplace.Upin
thefardistanceanimpossiblyhighvillageofspread-outtinroofssparkledinthesunlightlikewater
dropletsinafieldatsunrise.Wefollowedapathcutintothesideofaruddycliffwhereancientolive
treeshungprecariouslyfromstonebasesoverthesheerdroptothevalleyfloorbelow.Wecametoa
leveledoutsectionandweregreetedbyaprocessionofsevenvillagerscomingtowardsus.Theman
infrontwasholdingaverylargemulti-colouredumbrella,lookinglikeanadvertforLegal&General.
27
Hewasfollowedbythreewomenwearingwhitedresses,allwithtightlybraidedhair,whobowed
slightlyuponourgreeting.Inthethirdgrouponeofthemenhadhisdularestinglazilyacrosshis
shoulders,bothhandsrestingoverthetopofthesmoothwood,lazilyflippeduponehandingreeting
andgivingmeawinkuponmycustomary“Salaam”.Aswecameuptoahighridgewemetamanand
ayounggirlwithsevenoreightdonkeystightlyboundwithsacksofgrain.Ontheothersideofthe
ridgethelandfellawaytoavastdesert,punctuatedbyrisingambasofrustysandstone.Theridge
continuedupinvolvingsomegentlerockclimbingwhichItookslowly,beingmadeunsteadybymy
largepack.WeeventuallyreachedthevillageofAbuSelamaandIhadtoadmitthatIhadneverseen
anythinglikeitbefore.Insteadoftheclassicdrystone,flatroofedTigrinyantukalsIhadbecome
accustomedto,allofthehouseswerebuiltintheroundfromasturdygreystonewithbeautifullarge
grass-thatchedroofs.Theproximitytothevastamba-filledplaingavethefeelingthatthevillagewas
somehowfloatinginthebrightbluesky.
AnoldmaninaraggedypatchworkoutfitwhoclearlyknewOldBerhanugreetedus,andwewere
invitedtohishousefortalla.Hisold,buck-toothedwifehadakindfaceandlaiddownacowhide,
polishedwithageanduse,overtherockstepsoftheirentrancewayforustositon.Theoldman
wouldn’tletmytallabeakergodownanyfurtherthanhalfway,asiscustomary,andeventuallyIhad
tostophimasIexplainedthatIhadhadmyfillthedaybeforecelebratingGenna,indicatingthatIhad
drunkuptomyneckwithmyhandwhichhefoundhighlyamusing.Thecouplepresseduswithsour
injerabutwewerealltoofullfromourpeanutbuttersandwichlunch.Bothofmycompanions
nibbledtentativelyatonecornertonotgiveoffence.Wecontinuedontoacollectionofthreetukals
surroundedbyashoulder-highdry-stonewalltoppedwiththorn-latticedfencing,creatingan
impregnablecompound.OldBerhanuagainknewthefamilyandwewerewelcomedinformoretalla
andagainhadtorefusemorefood.
IcouldtellthatIwasreallyoffthebeatenpathhereasnoneofthechildrenhadbeentaughttobeg
whichisanendemicprobleminmuchofthecountry,theysimplystaredatmeinsilence.Wehadto
pushOldBerhanutoleaveashewasstartingtoenjoyhistallaandfriendsalittletoomuch.Whenwe
eventuallygotuptogo,hehadfilledoneofouremptywaterbottlesfullofthegreenyeastyliquid.We
descendedthroughthevillageinthelateafternoonandcameuponanopenstretchofcultivated
fields.Thepathleddowntoagorgeofgiganticproportions.Orangeandgreentumbleddownin
roundedpromenadesoffoldingrockandforest.Perchedoverasheerdropacrosstheopeningofthe
gorgesatthesquat,freestandingchurchofAbuSelama,sereneasatemplebalancingonamountain
cloudinaJapaneseUkiyo[floatingworld]painting.HereagaincommunicationbrokedownasBennie
saidthatwewouldstayhereforthenight.
Ihadbeenledtobelievethatitwasgoingtotakeussevenhourstoreachthispointwheninfactit
hadonlytakenfour,includingstops,andwestillhadtwohoursofdaylightleft.Idecidedtopushon,
asitseemedwecouldcomfortablycompletethetrekintwodaysratherthanthree.Wedescended
downthetumblinggorgeintoajunglyforestanditwasnicetobeintheshade.Wejoinedastream
flankedbylargebouldersentwinedintherootsofthetallvine-cladtreesalongthebanks.Itwasfun
tosplasharoundthesideofthewateralongthevalleyfloorasthelightlostitsperspectivewhenthe
sunstarteditsfinaldecent.Wefollowedtheriveroutoftheforestontoaplainandstrolledalongflat
groundbetweenacaciaandtermitehillsashighasaman.Thesunfinallysetinagentleorangeglow
andIturnedonmytorch.AfterhalfanhourmorewereachedOldBerhanu’shomeandwere
welcomedbyhisyoungwife.Wesatinthesecondofhisbuildings,whichIhadatfirstmistakenfora
smallchurch,whilehisyoungsondancedaroundinfrontofusonthestone-hardearthenfloor,andI
wasgladofthisinnocentdistraction.
OldBerhanu’swifegatheredfreshcoffeekernelsthattheyhadgrownontheirland,grindingthe
husksoffwithalargestoneonacurvedbasinofrockbeforepickingoutthebeansandblowingthe
chafffromaflatwickerbasket.Shemadehot,sweetbunaandweateinjerawithsomesortof
accompanimentalthoughIhaveforgottenwhatitwas.IfoundoutlaterthatOldBerhanu’swife
commentedthatalthoughIhadalargebody,Iateasmallamountandindeedthisisrelativelytrueas
Ethiopians,regardlessoftheirnaturallyslim,wiryphysique,caneasilyputawaytwiceasmuchfood
28
asmyself,evenwhenIamatmymosthungry.Imadehiswifeasimplegiftofapacketofdriedsugar
cakesandapackofdates,whichsheenthusiasticallyaccepted.IaskedBennieifshehadtrieddates
beforebutsheunderstoodmeandsaid“yes!”emphatically.
OldBerhanuofferedmehisbedbutIrefusedandafterdinner,stretchedmyroll-matoutonthe
ground,unrolledmysleepingbagoveritandimmediatelyfellasleepfullyclothedinfrontof
everyone.OldBerhanuwokeupatfourinthemorning,dressedandwentoutsidetoloudlyslaughter
achicken.Irolledoverandwentbacktosleep.AcoupleofhourslaterIgotupwiththepaleblue
dawnandwenttothetoiletoutsideofthecompoundinathorn-ringedenclosure.WhenIreturned
weateinjerawithpiecesofthechickeninastewpouredoverthetop.Wesetoffinthecrisp,early
lightthroughapatchworkofrockyfields.Itwasimpossibletogetanymeaningfulinformationoutof
Bennieaboutdistancesortimesorwherewehadoptionstospendthenightshouldweneedto.The
journeyendeduptakingtenhours,whichalthoughnotanygreatdisaster,iscertainlylongerthanI
wouldhaveplanned.IntruthIhadnoonetoblamebutmyself,havinggoneagainstmyownbetter
judgmentattheoutset.
Afteracoupleofhourswepassedwhatwassupposedtobeourcampsiteforthesecondnight,
situatednexttoabeautifulclumpoftreessurroundingalushwateringhole.Thenbeganan
unforgivingslogcuttingdiagonallyup,acrossandontoahugeplateau.Iwashotandirritatedwhen
wereachedthetopbuttheviewcalmedmedownandItookonplentyofwaterinthebakingheat.
Thiswasadayofvastness.Theviewswerelongandincalculable.Ifilmedmuchofthejourneybut
uponreviewingthefootageafterwardsitlookedlikenothingatall;thecameraunabletocapturethe
scaleoftheopenspaces,orthesubtletiesofthejaggedmountainhorizon.Wepassedbymany
homesteadsandintoanewwidevalleybelowalargegreen-contouredmountain,guarddogsbarking
themselveshoarseaswepassedclosetotheirowner’shomes.IntheDanakilDepressionIhad
unwiselywalkedthroughthehot,salty,sulfuricwaterinmyboots,andhadlatterlynoticedthatthe
rubbersealjoiningthesoletotheleatheroftheboothadstartedtoworkitselfaway.Ihadnot
noticedtheextentofthedamagehowever,asthecorrosivewaterhadactuallygotinandunderthe
leftsole.
This,combinedwiththebakingheatofthesunandthestressofcontinueduseoverhardterrain,
resultedinthegluecompletelyerodingandthefonthalfofmyleftsoleflappinguncontrollablyopen,
justasIwasinthemiddleofaparticularlytrickydescentoveraslipperysandstonerockfacehalfway
downahugearidrockvalley.“Ah,Bollocks.”Imadeitdownwiththesoleflappingwildlybutwas
unabletocontinueatanybuttheslowestofcrawlingpaces.OldBerhanuingeniouslystripedthebark
fromayoungsaplingtouseasacordtoholditinplacebutdespitenumerousmodificationsitwould
alwaysslipoffaftertenmetersorso.FortunatelyBenniehadasparesetofsandalsandIputtheleft
oneonovermysock,which,althoughuncomfortablytight,wasbearable.Wecontinuedonourway
withmyself,nothavingcompletelylostmysenseofhumor,appreciatingtheeccentricityofthe
situation.“Sometimeswhenyouaretrekkingbadthingshappen,youjusthavetowelcomethemwith
openarms,”saidOldBerhanusagelyinTigrinya.Wepassedthoughnumerousdryriverbeds,more
gianttermitehills,andfordedariverbeforereachingthefinalplaininthetwilight.
ThemountainstretchjoiningtheTembianandGheraltachainsroseupasanimpenetrablewallof
glowingamberonourrighthandsideasourlongwalkingshadowsstrodeacrossthemlikegiantsin
thesettingsun.WecontinuedontotheroadbytorchlightuntilwereachedthesmalltownofKoraro.
Icollapsedonthebigdoublebedofapensionandagainimmediatelyfellasleep,vowingthatifI
returnedthiswouldbeathree-dayexcursion.InthemorningImanagedtotemporarilyfixmyboot
withacombinationoftapeandanoldcordrag.OldBerhanureturnedtohisvillageandBennieandI
partedwithmemakingclearthatIwouldn’tbeusinghimagaininnouncertainterms.Then,looking
notunlikeahobo,IwalkedbackalongtheroadforfourhourstothesmallvillageofMegab,young
childrenhasslingmetheentirewaybeggingforpensandmoney.WhenIreachedthevillageIsatina
smallrestaurantanddrankanentirebottleofcoldwaterstraightoff,thenaPepsifromatin-capped
glassbottle.‘Well,’Ithoughttomyself,‘sometimesyoueatthebar,and,sometimeswell,thebar,he
eatsyou.’
29
LakeHashinge&Mt.Tsibet
Afterthe‘TembianDebacle’Idecidedtogoitaloneformynexttrek.Ifeltconfidentenoughinmy
understandingoftheculturetogetbyunaidedevenintheremotestofareas,butIthinkmainlyIjust
wantedsomepeaceandquiet.Becauseofthisandforseveralotherreasons,thisturnedouttobeone
ofmyfavoritetreks.Havinggotmybootsre-gluedandstitchedbyacapableyoungcobblerinAxum,I
headeddowntoKorem,thenearesttowntoLakeHashinge.KoremissituatedwheretheTigrinyan
plateaufirstrisesupfromtheAmharaplains,and,comparedwithmostoftheariddesertplateauxof
Tigray,thisfirststripofhighlandisalushbreadbasketofgreenterracedbarleyandwheatfields.The
areaalsomaycontraststronglywiththeassociationsmanyWesternerswillhavewiththename
‘Korem’asitflashedupontheirTVscreensforaidappealsduringthe1984-5famineofEthiopia.The
townwasoneoftheearlyrefugeecampsofthefamine,housing35,500childreninApril1983,and
witnessedappallingdeathtollsin1984untiltheBBCbeganreportingconditionsinOctoberofthat
year,promptinginternationalassistancetoimproveconditionswithfurtherfoodaid.
Mytripwasinitiallydelayedduetoillness.Ihavealongandsomewhattolerantrelationshipwith
diarrhea,ashavingtraveledtomanycountrieswhereitisprevalent-alasoftenthosethathousehigh
mountainranges-Ialmostexpectaboutasamatterofcourse.Iwasnotparticularlyfazedtherefore
whenIwastakenwitharathernastystrainoftheafflictionthenightbeforeIwasduetosetoff.After
numeroustripstothebathroomduringthenightandinthemorning,Ipackedalightbagandsetoff
at07:00AMtowalktothelake.After30minutesofwalkingoverflatgroundwithalightpackIfelt
likeIhadwalkedforeighthoursuphillcarryingarefrigerator.Iputmypackdownandlayonitfora
while,slowlyadmittingtomyselfthatIwasinfactratherill.Ilimpedbacktotheroadandcaughta
bajajtothehotel.Threedayslater,aftermuchrest,astrictdietofplainfoodwithtwokilogramsof
bananasadayfortheirpotassiumcontent,sixteentabletsoftinidazole,threeofzincandplentyof
water,Ibouncedbackalongtothesametracktothelakeshore.
Thetimespentholedupinbedwasinfacthighlyfortuitousasitnotonlygavemeachancetogetmy
notesfrompreviousexcursionsintheirfirstrealorder,itmoreimportantlyputmeintherightplace
attherighttimetoviewoneofthemostamazingspectaclesthecountryhastooffer.Underacloudof
disinterestedapathyIhadbarelyregisteredsomeofthelocalyoungmenputtingupmulti-coloured
streamersacrossthestreetasIhadventuredoutearlythatmorningtothepharmacyformore
medicinalsupplies.AfteraslowdayofwritingandreadingIhadjusteatenmy27thbananaand
resignedmyselftoamid-afternoon‘I’vegotnothingbettertodo’napwhenallofasuddenahuge
caterwaulingandclatterbeganemanatingfromthestreetoutside.Irantothebalconyandblinked
incredulouslyasahugeshiningprocessionofgiltumbrellasmarchedbelowme,twinklinggoldand
silverwithreds,purplesandbluesdartingflamesinthesunlight.Theentirestreetwasthrongedwith
men,womenandchildrenalldressedinwhite.Ahotchpotchmilitiaguardinoddlyassorted
garmentsofkhakiandcamouflagedclothingworedarklycolouredshammaswithvaryingmodelsof
plasticorpolishedwood-stockedKalashnikovsslungacrosstheirshoulders,flankedeithersideofthe
clergy.
Theseweredressedinthemostsumptuousrobesimaginable,especiallyregardingtheremotenessof
thearea,withredandpurplevelvetsandsoftgreenfeltcapspatternedwithsilverthread.Thosenot
carryingthefinelystitchedparasolswithswayingtasselsboreheavywoodenstaffswithhuge
representationsoftheintricatelylatticedMescal[EthiopianCross]workedfromchunksofbrassor
nickel,orcarveddirectlyfromlargetrunksofwood.MysicknesshazeevaporatedimmediatelyandI
rushedbacktomyroom,threwonmyboots,grabbedmyvideogearandrandownandoutthefront
doorintotheback-endoftheTimket[Epiphany]streetparade.Themainprocessionhadalready
movedfurtherdownalongthemainstreetofthetownandIhadtoscramblepastvastmultitudesof
peopleonthelefthandsideoftheroad,almostgettingflattenedbyadonkeycartintheprocess,
wheretherewasjustthetinniestamountofdiscernablespaceamongsttheheavingthronginorder
tosqueezepastandcatchup.
30
WhenIreachedthemainprocessionIsawthatexcitedyoungmenwerelayingdownlargeswaysof
redandgoldcarpetorbluesacking,dependingonwhatwasimmediatelyavailable.Oncewalked
acrossbythe50orsopriests,thecarpetsandsackingwerethenre-rolledandcarrieddowntothe
frontoftheprocessionontheshouldersoftherunningmenandboys,toagainberolledopensothe
clergy’sfeetnevertouchedtheground.Theboys’facesflushedwiththeexcitement,exertionandselfimportanceofanimportanttaskbeingdutifullyperformed.Then,asifadamhadbrokenontherighthand-sideofthestreet,ahugeshoalofhumanmovementsurgedforwardunderaforestofwaving
dula,chantingandfootstomping.Thecrowdsomehowpartedtomakewayforthegroupofmenand
theystormeddownthestreetasonebody,stopping,formingcirclesanddancingaroundandaround
inawhirlingcircleofflyingwoodensticks,thencontinuingonagain.Iranuptothemandangledmy
videocameraabovethempointingdowntogetabird’s-eye-view.Noneofthempaidanyreal
attentiontome,lostintheecstasyofthedance.
Nearby,menandwomentookturnsinshoulderinghugethreefoot-longhidedrums,smashingouta
poundingrhythmwhilstdancingaroundandaroundinsmallcirclesmadebythecrowds.Groupsof
youngchildreninorangeandwhiteoutfitswithcrossesonthem,lookinglikeminiatureknightserrant,sangingroups.Groupsofyounggirlscrowdedtogethersingingtheirownsongs.Groupsofold
womencrowdedtogethersingingtheirownsongs.Everyonewassmilingandlaughing.Everyone
wasclapping.Peopleclosedupandlefttheirshopstojointheparade.ThosewhocouldspeakEnglish
spoketome,notofthemselvesbutoftheparade,asIwastheonlynon-Ethiopianthere.The
processionendedwiththeentiretownamassedonalargeplainwherethereligiousritualscould
takeplaceinagreencanvastentwithcrucifixesofacreammaterialcrudelystitchedontoitssides.I
climbedahillsidetogetabetterviewofthishiveofactivityamidsttheidyllicmountainscenery,
surroundedbyaswarmofyoungchildren.Andthen,assoonasithadbegun,itwasover;thewhite
dotsontheplaindriftedbackthewaytheyhadcomeanddisappearedintotheirhouses.Isuddenly
feltverytiredandtrudgedbacktobed.
TheonlylakeofanysizeinTigray,HashingefeelsliketheComoofEthiopia.Itjoinstwolargeareasof
lushflatlandtothenorthandsouthwheredrovesofcattleandotherlivestockarebroughttograze
andwater.Ata2500melevationthelakewatersrestcalmly,enclosedtotheeastandwestby
beautifullyterracedfoothills.Achurchflashedlikeanaquamarinestoneonahillsideasthesunlight
caughtit,theraysthenabruptlycutoffbyanangrycloudrollingintothehigherpeaks.Iwalkedwest
alongthesouthsideofthelake,enjoyingtheshadingofthewatercreatedbytheripplingbreeze,
greetedbyshepherdsherdinghuge-hornedcattlecomingtheotherway.Myplanwastowalkupinto
themountainsonthewestsideofthelake,headnorthfortwodays,comedownintothesmalltown
ofMaychew,thensummitMt.Tsibet.Situatedtothenorthwestofthetownat3935m,itisthehighest
inmountaininTigray.Ihadnotheardofanyonedoingthewalkanddidn’tbringatent,assuming
therewouldbeplentyofmountainvillagesthereuponwhosehospitalityIcouldrely.
Thewalkupintothefoothillsthroughgrass-thatchedvillageswasbeautiful.Thelakeshimmeredon
myrighthandsideandeverythingwasgreen.Ipassedagroupofahundredorsomenallsitting
downbyabarn,celebratingtheback-endofTimket.Thehillsbecamemountainsandundulated
higher.PassingthroughonevillageIwassuddenlyconfrontedwithtwohugeglossy-coatedyellow
dogs,orcurs,thesizeofsmallbears,runningtowardsmeatafrighteningspeedfrothing,growling
andbarking,uptotheshoulder-highedgeofthetrackonmyleft.Thefirsttoreachthedirtbankwas
justabouttoleapoffontome(Isawhisheadgodownforthepounce)butIhadquicklydropped,
pickedupalargerockand,holdingithighintheairsohecouldseeitinathrowingactionand
makingmybodylarge,IgaveofftheloudestgrizzledgrowlIcouldmanage.Thiswasjustenoughto
checkhisleapandalsothatofhiscompanion,andIslowlybacked-upoffthetrackacrossafield.They
wereonlydoingtheirjobbutIwaspositivehewouldhavegoneformeifIhadn’treacted.Atmynext
waterstopIstrappedmyknifetotheoutsideofmybeltforthefirsttime.Justincase.Ialsoknew
therewerehyenasintheareaanditgavemeasurprisingamountofconfidence.
AtthenextvillageIaskedforwater,forwhichtheyrefusedtheofferofpayment.Thegirlswore
multi-colouredbeadswovenintotheirdresses,theirtimelesslyconsistentstyleofhairbraidedback
31
tothemiddleofthehead,thenexplodingoutinlargeandfrizzyplumes.Theywereafriendlyfamily
andIhadtodisentanglemyselffromthemasitwasstillearlyinthedayandtheyweretryingtoget
metositononeofthesmallhidestoolswhichhadmiraculouslyappearedandeatinjera.Thefather
heldmyhandashewalkedmeoutofthebrushwood-fencedcompoundandtheyallyelledand
directedmeupthenextmountainasasmallcrowdinthedistanceontothecorrectpath,whichIhad
missed.ThelocaltracktookmeupandupuntilIcamedownintopeacefulpastureswithgnarledand
twistedyewtrees,providingoccasionalshadeintheotherwiseopen,contouredgrassland.Passing
throughacoupleofvillagesIreachedadeepterracedvalley,atitsheadalargemountaincrowned
withfourrockypeaks.AllofthelocalshadsaidthatifIwantedtoreachMaychewIhadtogodown,
ontoandacrosstheplain,theadviceofwhomIcompletelyignored.
Ispottedasmallgrassypassintheshapeofa‘U’justtotheleftofthefourpeaksandmynosetoldme
toheadforit.Ipassedaroundtheperimeterofoneseeminglydesertedvillageapartfromalone
snotty-nosedbabygirl,passedthroughanothernowexpectedgauntletofdogs,andalthoughlosing
thetrack,headeduptothepass.Isawsomewomenbentdoublecarryingheavybundlesoffirewood
highupabovemeonaperpendicularheading.Istartedtofeelthealtitudeforthefirsttimeand
draggedmyheavylegsuptothetop.Theviewdownontheothersidewasspectacular.Aneasypath
throughgrassywoodlandfollowed,asIhadhopeditwould,downandaroundthebackofthefour
peaksontherightofthevalley.Ontheothersideofthevalleyatightlyclusteredvillageofthatched
roofsonasmallledgelookedlikeamushroompatchinthedistance.Ahead,ruddymountainpasses
dipped,cajoled,thenroseupasimpenetrablewalls,theirsummitsleadingtofurtherhaziersummits,
backedupagainstthehorizon.
Ipassedsomechildrenherdingtheiranimalsandfollowingthelongpathdownandtotheright,
passingthroughmoretinyhamlets.AtoneoftheseIsawagirlinanorangedresswithherface
paintedabrightorange,fromwhatcouldhavebeenhenna.JustasIwasgettingtiredIreacheda
shallowgreenvalleywithawaterpumphalfwayupit,largegustsofcloudrollinginandsettling
downfromtheeast.Amaninthelasthamlethadgesturedformetotakealeftupoverasmallhill
whenIreachedit.SomehowIfeltthatthiswasthelaststretchofthedayandsureenoughasI
roundedthecrestofthehillandcamedownintoanotherlushterracedvalleyImetapriestandhe
guidedmeintoagrasshutcompound.AwomaninherthirtiesownedthehouseandwhenIgestured
ifIcouldsleepthereshegavemealookasifIhadjustaskedherifitwasOKifIbreathedoxygen.Her
motherlivedwithherandtherewerefouryoungchildrenrunningabout.
Whenshebroughtouttheinjerathepriestandhisyoungnovicestoodupand,withasmallmetal
crossinhishands,thepriestintonedandprayedoverthefoodwiththenovicesayingprayersat
certainintervals.IstoodupandmadethesignofthecrosstoshowthemIwaspartofthegangfor
reassuranceandbowedmyhead.Iremainedinthispositionforagoodtenminutes.Iassumedhe
wasmakingthemostofhisposition.Thepriestthensplashedsomewateraroundthewhitewashed
dungwallsofthetin-roofedhut,andwefinallysatdowntoeattheflatbreadwithahotredpaste
madefromthespicemita-mitawhichIhavenotcomeacrossbefore.Communicationwaslimited
although,apictureworthathousandwords,IshowedthemsomephotosfrommytriponmyiPhone,
eventuallycomingtophotosfromEngland.Ihadtakenapictureofadarkblue1960’sRollsRoyce
SilverCloudinMayfairforafriendofminewhoissomethingofaRolleraficionado(althoughI
watchedhimdoughnutoneinanemptydirtparkinglotinDubaionetime),andIdon’tmind
admittingtoyouthattotheseinnocentfarmer-folkandmenofthecloth,Ipretendedthatthiswas
mycar.Iactuallyoverheardthegrandmothertalkingaboutmymakinatoanotherroundofpriests
whocameinforfoodlater.
ItseemedtobeahotspotfortheclergytoeattherealthoughIneversawpaymentexchanged.
Despitethelanguagebarrierweactuallyhadabitofalaughtogetherwithmemimickingtheparade
forTimketinKoremIhadrecentlywitnessed,banginglargedrums,carryingcrosses,whooping
aroundwithdulaandsoon.Theygavemeacomfortablebedinapartitioned-offstoreroomandIfell
asleeplisteningtothechildrenplayingandgiggling.Youcouldseeintheireyesthattheyweregood
people.Iwasveryawareoftheamountoftrusttheyhadplacedinme.Iwasacompletestrangerto
32
them,anuninvitedforeignerwithnoreferences.YethereIwaswelcomedintosleepinahouse
comprisedofonlywomenandchildren.Ifoundthecircumstancestrangelytouching.Inthemorning
afterawashandsomefoodIhadtofightthemothertoothandnailforhertoacceptpayment,which
shedidn’t,soIendedupjustleavingitonabench.Iwasescortedoutofthevillagebyacollectionof
fiveorsopriestsandaboutthesamenumberofmencarryingmachineguns,thepurposeofwhomI
couldn’tfathom.
ThepathcontinueduptoanevenhigherpassandafteraboutanhourIreachedthetop.Atinyclimb
broughtmetoasmallsummitandIlookeddownintoahugevalleystretchingoutinanever-ending
seaofsoftcottonwool,asIwaswayabovethecloudline.BackthewayIhadcomethecloudhadalso
settledoverthevalleywiththewaterpump.ItookoffmyT-shirtandbaskedinthewarmsun,my
flea-batteredwhiteskinsoakinguptheVitaminD.Icouldhearthestrangewhoopsandcallsof
hyenasfromupandacrossarock-strewngreensectionofmountain,butIcouldn’tseethem.Thelong
descentbroughtmethroughanothervillagesettledonapromenadejustnestledabovethecloud,
whichinmymindInamed‘Laputa’.Icontinueddowndowndownamidstidyllicsceneryformostof
thedaytosoftgreenplainswheremenwhereploughingwithoxen.WhenIfinallyreachedthe
tarmacroadIhitchedarideintoMaychewpasttheRayaBreweryfromarichlocalfamilydrivinga
camouflage-paintedToyotapickup.
ThesleepybackwatertownofMaychewhasasurprisingamountofhistoricalsignificance.TheBattle
ofMaychew[March1936]wasthelastmajorbattlefoughtonthenorthernfrontunderHaileSelassie
beforehewasforcedtofleethecountrytotheUKduringtheSecondItalo-AbyssinianWar.Mussolini,
throughhisMarshalPietroBadoglio,employedthelethalweaponofmustardgasmoreheavilyhere
thaninotherbattles,andsixweekslaterhistroopsmarchedunopposedintoAddisAbaba.Haile
Selassiere-enteredAddisinMay1941asacombinationofBritish,Commonwealth,FreeFrench,Free
BelgianandEthiopianforcesliberatedEthiopiafromItaliancontrolthatyear,duetoMussolini’s
sidingwithHitleratthebeginningoftheSecondWorldWar.Maychewalsosawsignificantresistance
fightingduringtheEthiopianCivilWar,whentheTigrayPeople’sLiberationFront(TPLF)andthe
EthiopianPeople’sRevolutionaryDemocraticFront(EPRDF),acoalitionofrebelgroups,overthrew
Mengistu’sMarxistDergregimein1991.Ataperingstoneobeliskstandsononeofthehills
overlookingthetowninremembranceofthoserebelswholosttheirlivesintheconflict.
TheTigrayanstookcontrolofthegovernmentafterthefalloftheDergandhavebeenthemajority
ethnicgroupinpowereversince.TheexceptionbeingthecurrentPrimeMinister,Hailemariam
Desalegn,isfromtheWolaytaethnicgroupofEthiopia,theprincipalpopulationgroupinEthiopia's
SouthernNations,Nationalities,andPeople'sRegion(SNNPR)[labeled‘Southern’onculturalmap].
Thisimbalanceofethnicpowercontinuestodividethecountry,especiallyamongstthemajority
Oromoethnicgroup.Thenextmorningafteranightinanotherflea-infestedhotel,Iheadedoutfrom
MaychewtowardsTsibet,cuttingdirectlyacrossthecountrysideuntilIcametoitsfoot.Ihadmet
withtwointerestingHabashamenhomefortheholidaysthepreviousevening,bothworkingforthe
UNwithSouthSudaneserefugeesand,becomingengrossedinpoliticaldiscussions,wehadcertainly
consumedone-too-manyglassesofouzo.ThefreshairwasdoingmegoodandIlookedforwardtoa
stiffclimb.Followingasteeptrack,afteracoupleofhoursIcameoutontoabeautifulgrassymeadow
surroundedbyyewtrees.ThemeadowwaslargeandextremelypeacefulandinmymindI
bookmarkeditforafuturecampsite.
Istoppedinthemeadowforawhiletobatheinthesunlight,watchingthecountrytrafficpasstoand
fro.Quiteafewmenwereridinghorsesandcutdashingfigureswiththeirshammasblowinginthe
windastheygallopedacrosstheplain.Green,tree-coveredmountainsroseupallaroundwith
villagesandhamletsdottedeverywhere.Iheadedthroughaforest,thenalargevillage,onapaththat
leduptothehighgrasslands.Comingaroundtheeastsideofthemountain,itsgreybattlements
aroseupabovememenacingly.Ifollowedatrackupandthroughthelastvillage,withaparticularly
ferociousdoggauntlet,comingtowhatIlatertermed‘TheChuteofMisery’.Theonlybreakinthe
verticalstonefacesofthesouthernside;athinnaturalchuteledupintothemountain.About20m
across,itrisesupfor300mataclean50°angle.Thiscombinedwiththealtitude,Ifeltmypaceslow
33
toatrudgeasIputmymindinahappyplaceandjustletmyfeetdothework.Ayoungshepherdsat
onarockatthebottomofthechutelisteningtoaboxradio,therepetitivebeatofthesongs
reverberatingofffromtherockwalls.WhenIfinallyreachedthetopIfollowedsomeexcellentridge
walkingalongacoltowardsthesummit.
Thiswasnotmuchhigherthanthecolandisformed,unexpectedly,ofasoftgrassymoundofsuch
perfectproportionsitremindedmeofanIronAgehillfort.Bouncingupthegrasswithrenewed
energyitwasbyfarthemostrewardingsummitofmytrip,andits360°viewoneofthemostmoving
intermsofgrandeur.Ihadthatfeelingthatyoudon’talwaysgetbutwhenyoudogetityou
rememberwhyyouclimbmountains.Tothenorth,greennesslefttheplateauxasitventuredfurther
intoTigray,itsdustydrypeaksenvelopingoneanother,somehowemanatingabiblical,holyfeeling.
Tothefareastthelanddroppedawayinasheerfallofatleastathousandmeterstoafryingpan
plain,eventuallyleadingtoathinwalledcordillera;theperimeterofthedreadedAfarregion.Tothe
southandwestthegreen-toppedpeakshadbecomesilveryblueinthehazeofdistanceandItraced
myroutefromtheprecedingdays.Directlybelowandfourhoursup,thegrassymeadowIhad
walkedacrosswasetchedbythestraightlineofthedirttrack,bridgingthecurveofasmallstream
likeacrossbow.Maychewglintedlikesilverpowder.Abovemethesuncaughttheedgeofathin
curlingwispofcloudanditflashedgoldenagainsttheblue.Iflungupmyarmsandgaveagreatyell
tothegods.
34
Harar
J’airêvélanuitverteauxneigeséblouies,
Baisermontantauxyeuxdesmersaveclenteurs,
Lacirculationdessèvesinouïes,
Etl’éveiljauneetbleudesphosphoreschanteurs!
Ihavedreamedofthegreennightofthedazzledsnows,
Thekissrisingslowlytotheeyesoftheseas,
Thecirculationofundreamed-ofsaps,
Andtheyellow-blueawakeningofsingingphosphorus!
RIMBAUD
HararisundoubtedlyEthiopia’sbrightestflower.Ifajewel,shemaybeslightlychippedaroundthe
edges,thoughhercentrecontinuestoshinewithundiminishedbrilliance.Ofcourse,likemostplaces
onthecontinent-whichPaulTherouxencapsulatesas‘aDarkStar’-everythingisabitmessedup.
LocatedontheborderofthefareasternSomaliregion,French-importedblueandwhitevintage
PeugeottaxiscruisebeneathItalian-builtcolonialbuildingsdeckedwithtropicalflowers,givinga
strangeCubantwisttoSunniIslam’sfourthmostholycityafterMecca,MedinaandJerusalem.The
narrowwindingstreetswithintheperimeterwallsarealternativelywhitewashedthenpaintedin
pastelshadesofblue,viridian,vermillion.Asthebittersmellofmarijuanasmokeisthelifeblood
withinthefortifiedwallsofMorocco’snorthernBlueCityofChefchaouen,hereitiskhat,thehighly
addictiveleafgrownonthesurroundingplains,releasinganamphetaminebuzzwhenchewed,and
occupyingthedailythoughtsandactionsofthemajorityofthecity’sinhabitants.Mendyetheir
beardsorange.Thewomenwearthemostostentatious,beautifullydesignedandbrightlycoloured
shammasinthewholecountry.Therearetrampseverywhere.
FoundedbySheikhAwAbadirin940A.D.,theHararKingdombuilt99mosquesaccordingtothe99
namesofGodreferredtointheQuran,ofwhich82remaintoday.Thefourmeterhighlimestonewall
orJugol,encirclingtheoldcitywasconstructedfrom1551tokeepinvadersatbay,althoughithas
oftennotbeensuccessful.Thecityhasbeenconqueredoverthecenturiesbynumerousdifferent
kingdomsincludingtheAdalSultanate,theEgyptianCaliphate,theOromotribe(whoadvanced
throughtheRiftvalleyfromthesouthwestonhorseback,sackingthecitybeforeconvertingtoIslam),
Abyssinia(underMenelikII),andtheItalians.Hararhashistoricallybeenoneofthemaintrading
hubsbetweenAfricaandArabia,tradinginslaves,principallyfromtheOromoregion(Muhammad’s
wet-nurseissaidtohavebeenEthiopian),hides,coffee,khat,ivory,gold,perfumes,incense,musk
andsalt.Harar’swallswerenotpenetratedbytheWesternWorlduntil1855whenBritishexplorer
andpoetSirRichardBurton,disguisedasaMuslim,enteredthroughthenortherngateandstayedfor
tendaysaftersecretlyvisitingtheholycityofMeccaayearearlier.
Imetmyguide,Girma,at08:30AMafterhehadindustriouslyknockedonmydooranhouraftermy
arrivalthepreviouseveningtoofferhisservices.Anex-radiooperatorfortheAirForce,“Ihave
jumpedfromaplane!”,heservedasayoungmaninoneofthemanywarswithEritreaandin
Somalia.Afteradeliciousbreakfastofpancakecoveredinathinomeletdippedinhoney,wesetout
toexploretothecity.Weenteredthewallsthroughthesoutheasterngate-therearefivegates
correspondingtothefivepillarsofIslam-andimmediatelyfoundourselvesinthespicemarket.
Shelteredbyorangetarpaulin,largecalicosacksoverflowedwithanise,cardamom,coriander,dill,
mustard,chickpeas,lentils,varioustypesofincense,basil,garlic,khat,rosemary,oilbeans,yellow
coffee,frenjer(noidea),abish(aspicedrunkbywomenafterpregnancy),pilesofsugarcaneanda
wholehostofothercolourfulandexoticparaphernalia.Thefloorwascoveredwithmanydiscarded
35
khatleaves.ChatterfilledtheairinGe’Sinan,or‘Harari’,amixofAmharic,Arabic,AfaanOromoand
Somali,onlyspokenwithinthecitywalls.
Wecontinuedonthroughwindingstreetsuntilwereachedthegovernor’shouse.RasTafari,later
HaileSelassie,wasgovernorofthecityinhisyouthandhisoldhouseisnowhometoanexcellent
museum.ConstructedbyanIndianarchitect,thedelicatewoodenbuildingaffordsagoodviewover
thecitytothekhat,peanut,coffee,bananaandmangoplantationsoutsideJugol.Themuseumholds
variouscoinsfoundwithinthewalls,includinga12thCenturymintfromSalahuddin,MariaTheresa
silverthalers,andHararicoins,tinyascufflinkbuttons,inscribedwithnolessthan18Arabic
characters.Swordsattributedtovariouskingsareondisplayalongsidedelicatejewelry,somemade
withcoralbroughtfromtheRedSea.Legaldocumentsandcenturies-oldcopiesoftheQuranin
beautifullyflowingArabiccalligraphylinetheglasscabinets.AnItalian-madelightartillerypiece
usedbyMenelikIIinhisconquestofthecityrustsinthecourtyard,itsAmharicnameofgäräfä
translatesas‘thewhip’.Themuseum’scuratorAbdulahiSherifexplainedtomethatwhatwason
displayisonlyonefourthofhiscollection.
AfriendsatnexttohimlookingratherlikeanEthiopianhippyfromthe60’swithround-rimmed
glassesunderasunhatalsocoveringlonghairandastragglybeard.Sureenough,justasIwas
leaving,hesaidinperfectEnglish;“IamafanandfriendofTheBeatles.JohnLennon,mayhissoul
restinpeace.Seeyoulateralligator,”whichcompletelystumpedme.Westoppedoffatoneofthe
blacksmiths’yardswheresweatingmensataroundafurnacepoweredbyanelectricfanthat
whippedupthefireinakilntoablisteringdegree.Themenchewedkhatandusedhammerstobang
awayatplow-tipsandaxe-heads.Ashfromthefirefilledthecompound.Itwaslikewalkingintothe
MiddleAges.Outside,womenparadedthestreetsinshammasofeverypossiblecombinationof
patternandcolouryoucanimagine.Bytradition,onlyunmarriedgirlsaresupposedtowearfullsilk
dresses,marriedwomendistinguishablebyonlytheupperpartsoftheirdressesbeinginsilk,the
lowerincotton.FromwhatIsawhoweverI’mprettysurethatthiscustomhasbeenmetaphorically
‘throwntothewind’withsomeverymarried-lookingwomenwearingsomeverybeautifulall-silklookingdresses.
Asatradinghubthedressmakersimporttheirmaterialsfromallovertheworld,thelocalnamesfor
themincharmingcorrelationwiththeirorigin:silkfromChinaiscalledSinawi,fromIndonesia(Java)
–Jawi,fromMorocco–Atlas,fromIndia–Bombay.AsGirmaconfirmed;“Thesenamesarejustifiable
names”.TheacclaimedFrenchpoetArthurRimbaudarrivedinHarar25yearsafterBurtonin1880,
and,havingrenouncedhishugesuccessesasapoet,livedthereforbetweentenandelevenyearsas
thefirstwhitetraderofcoffeeandarmsinthecity,althoughheneverseemstohavemademuch
money.IhadbeenluckyenoughtofindacopyofhisworksinAddisandforatimebecameengrossed
inhistumultuouslifestory:hisloverVerlaineshootinghiminthewristwhilstdrunk;hisfeatsof
genuineexplorationintheregion;hisheart-breakingfinallettershomeashewascarriedacrossthe
desertinimmensepainwithacancerousknee,lateramputated,causinghisdeathshortlyafterwards
inEurope.Andofcourse,hismystifyingpoetryinterwovenwithalchemisticincantations,threadsof
theoccult,colour,light,andmagic.Hararwasjusttheplaceforamanlikehim.
ThebuildingthatholdsthemuseumdedicatedtohismemoryandworksisalsoofdelicateIndian
design,withmanyleather-boundvolumesinthelibraryonthegroundfloor.Rimbaudimportedthe
firstcameraintothecityandonthesecondfloormanyofhisfascinatingprintsareondisplay.Ispent
alongtimelookingatthembeforereturningtomyroominoneofthetraditionalguesthouseswithin
thejugol.AllHararihousesareofasimilarlayoutwithalarge,multi-platformedseatingarea,its
levelsofseatingaccordingtosocialrank.Colourfulplatesandwickerworkfilleveryinchofthe
whitewashedwalls.Asuccessionofwoodenbeamsprotrudeinalineacrosstheentranceway,the
numberofrolled-uprugsplacedoverthemindicatinghowmanygirlsareofmarriageableageinthe
household.IntheeveningGirmaandmyselfcaughtabajajtotheoutskirtsofthewidercitytothe
rubbishdumpattwilight.Herethelocalhyenasarefeddailyandmyeyesfixedonthemintenselyas
theycamelurkingoutoftheshadowsfromvastswathesofplastic-strewnwasteland.
36
Theyarehuge,muchlargerthanadog,andclearlybuiltofsolid,solidmuscle.Theirlongnecks
protrudeforwardlargegrizzledheads,seeminglyeatenawayinpatchesaroundthegumsandlips
eitherbydarkmarkingsorsometerribledisease,Icouldn’ttellwhich.Theirslowlollopinggait
betraysaterribleflashingrapidityofmovement.Whoeversaidthattheylaughwaslying.Myselfand
afewothertouristsfedthemstripsofrawmeatdrapedoversticks.Ithoughtbacktomyflippancy
whenaloneandveryhighupinthemountainsofHashingeIhadheardthecaterwauling’sofapack
withinacoupleofhundredmetresofme.Althoughhumanattacksarenotcommon,ignorancecan
trulybeblisssometimes.
Overlookingthecityonahill,thepalatial-lookingconcreteshellofthecountry’sseconddedicated
fistulahospital(amongnumerousfistulacenters)isstillunderconstruction.Aspreviously
mentioned,itisnotanunfairstatementtosaythatmanylocalwomenaremistreatedinEthiopia.
WheneverIseeacollectionoflocalswalkingdowntheroad,ninetimesoutoftenthewomenwillbe
carryingtheheaviestloads.Theyaremoreoftenthannotoppresseddomesticallyintheruralareas
withbackbreakingworkandcanbemarriedoffatanunbelievablyyoungage,iftheyarenotfirst
kidnapedandraped;therebybeingforcedintomarriage.Obstetricfistulasareoneoftheveryworst
effectsofwhatcanbeanunbelievablycruelculture.Itisamedicalconditioncausedbysevereor
failedchildbirth,especiallyinyounggirlswhosebodieshavenotyetfullydevelopedenoughinorder
tosafelygivebirth.Holescandevelopbetweenthevaginaandrectumand/orbladder,causinga
constantleakingoffaecesand/orurinethroughthevagina.
Thegirlsandwomenwhoareafflictedbythisterriblesufferingoftendonotreceivetreatment,are
ostracizedbytheircommunityandmadetolivealoneinfilth,painandhumiliation.Theemptyshell
ofthebuildingseemedanappropriatemetaphorthatalthoughstepsarebeingtakentotreatand
eradicatethisabomination,itiscertainlynotyetenough.Thesesoberingthoughtsencircledmymind
aswewalkedtheoutsideperimeteroftheeasterncitywalls.Threeyounggirlsinmatchingblueshadedshammasmadetheirwaytowardsus,laughingandjokingwitheachother,happyand
youthfullygigglingatthepresenceofaforeigner.Icouldn’timagineanyone,letalonethem,being
abletodealwithsuchatorture,andmoresufferingthananypersonshouldbecalledupontoendure.
Towardseveningthepaceofthecityslowstoacrawlasmostofthemenandmanywomenstartto
reallygetintotheirkhathighsandeventhepretenseofworkisabandoned.
Lotsofoldmenhavecompletelyletthemselvesgoandlieinfilthinthealleywayswithbeadsofgreen
salivaspillingdownfromtheirmouths.Someofthemgocrazy.Oneyoungishmanhadhisfeet
manacledinthestreetoutsidehishome.Bunchesofkhatleavesinhislefthand,hegrabbedmyhand
withhisrightandwouldn’tletgo.HespokegoodEnglishandseemedwelleducated.Someofthemen
arereveredfortheirholinessandGirmawasverycarefultopickoutonemanformetogivetenBirr
toasanoffering.Hedidlookkindofholy.Thereallyoldmenwithnoteethgrindtheleavesina
mortarandswallowthemasapaste.Imadethemistakeofeatingkwot,theEthiopianequivalentofa
rawmeatsteaktartarandwasholedupforadaywithchronicdiarrheaandsomissedthecamel
market.Aboutofself-inflictedillnessmademetetchyatbestandIalmostpunchedawaiterinthe
facewhenhetriedtooverchargemefiveBirr[25CentsUS]forasourapplesmoothie,callinghima
‘filthysonofabitch’.Agibbousmoondriftedoverthecityatnighttothewailsofthemuezzinsfrom
themosques.Harar.Crazytown.
37
TheBaleMountains
DuringmybusjourneysouthwestfromHararintotheheartofOromocountry,Iwasimmediately
takenwiththepeople.Theywereevenfriendlier,amidstafriendlycountry,thanallofthepeopleon
allofmybusrides.AndIhadtakenalot.AfewwordsofdisjointedArabicwereaninstanthitasitis
widelyspokenbythelargelyMuslimcommunityhere.AssoonaswestartedtoenterthemountainsI
alsorealizedIwasinterrainthatdemandedappreciation.Itwasbeautifulinthepeaceful,ZeninspiringwayofthefoothillsandmountainsofKyushu,Japan;lush,verdanthillsidespunctuatedby
softgreyboulders.‘Ah’,Ithought,‘thisismykindofcountry.’IhoppeddownfromthebusintheoneroadtownofDinshocallinggoodbyetomynewfoundfriends;“Kabullala,ashoufkombikhair,”[may
allofyourprayersbeanswered,seeyouingoodness]andwalkeddowntheroadinthecrisp
mountainairtomeetsomeacquaintancesIhadcontactedviaemailafewmonthspreviously.
ImetwithAyuba,alocalmountainguide,andMatt,aformerPeaceCorpsworkerwiththreeyears
experienceintheregion,nowworkingfortheFrankfurtZoologicalSociety;bothinfluentialmembers
oftheBaleMountainsNationalParkcommunity.Wewenttothe‘LondonCafé’,amedium-sizedroom
wherethelocalmencongregatetodrinkbottledwaterandchewkhat,andaftertalkingforanhour
orsoIlefttheminsearchoffood.IwaspromptlyinvitedtojoinalocalcrowdinarestaurantbyDr.
EndalkaehewBirhanu,aveterinarysurgeonuniversallyreferredtoas‘Doc’,andWarekeiTadesse,
alsoalocalguideoftheregion,whobothspeakexcellentEnglish,whichwasmostappreciatedasyet
againIwasinanewregionthatspokeacompletelydifferentlanguage.Wedrankbeerandateroast
meatandafterIorderedaroundofarakeforeveryonethingsrapidlystartedtogetloose.Weended
upfivegrownmendancinginthebarwearingstrawcowboyhatswehadtakendownfromthewalls,
onlystoppingforswigsofneatgin,asafterhalfalargeglassofarakeeachweallmanfullyagreedthat
70%proofisjusttoostrongtobetakeninquantity(thegintastedlikewaterafterwards).
Dochasaveryendearinglaughwherebyhisentirebodyshakesinmirthandhewaspracticallya
humanvibratorformostoftheevening.Warekeiisaproficientdancerdespitehisamplegirth,and
ledusinnumerousjauntstolocalsongs,whichleftallbuthimgaspingforairattheendofeach.A
priestinsistedinbuyingmetwobottlesofbeerbeforewealleventuallystumbledbacktoourrelative
homesunderacanopyofshiningstars.Awakingwitharathersorehead,IrealizedthatIhadworkto
do.GurbinderKundi(Binder),aCorporateTreasurerandlong-timefriendinDubai,hadbeenhinting
forawhilethathewouldbeinterestedtocomeoutandjoinmeforalegofthetrip,andwehad
subsequentlyarrangedforhimtopartakeinsixdaysoutofmyten-daytrekacrosstheSanetti
Plateau.DuetothenatureoftheterrainandthefactthatIwasnowcateringtotheneedsofsomeone
otherthanmyself,thetripneededsomesignificantpreparation,especiallywhencomparedwithmy
usualstyleof‘turnupwithabackpackandseewhathappens’.
WiththehelpofmylocalcontactsandtwolargebottlesofwaterIprocuredaguide,acook,two
horse-handlerswiththreehorsestocarrysuppliesandequipment,ten-days’worthofprovisions,a
minivantopickupBinderfromtheforest-townofRiraforhisjourneybacktoAddistocatchhis
flightandsufficientfundsfromthebankinthenexttown.Completingallofthepermitsatthepark
officeweweregoodtogo.BinderhasalotofexperienceworkinginAfricasoIdidn’thavetoworry
abouthimreachingme,IjustpointedhimintherightdirectionofthebusstationandbeforeIknewit
thenexteveningweweredrinkingbeersandeatingroastmeatintheverysamerestaurantofmy
previous‘dance-off’.TheSanettiPlateau,withanaverageelevationofover4000m,isthehighest
plateauonthecontinent,andwesetoutearlythenextmorningtowalkacrosstheRooftopofAfrica.
HavingloadedthehorsesweheadedupintothegrasslandsjustoutsideofDinsho.Bindercarrieda
daypackbutIinsistedoncarryingmyfullpackthroughacombinationofhabitandstupidity.“It’s
goodtraining,”asmydadwouldsay,althoughwhatexactlywearetrainingforIhaveneverfound
out.
Wewereimmediatelysurroundedbyanabundanceofexoticwildlife.Maleandfemalemountain
nyalawalkedamongstsmallherdsofredbackdeer.Themalenyala,largerthanaBritishstag,have
38
gracefulslendercurvinghornsthatrisestraightuptowardstheskywithanairofregalnobility.The
femalesarewithouthornsbuthavethesamedaintilycuppedears,likethecurvatureofaleaf
designedtocatchwater,givingthemaninquisitive,superioraspect.This,combinedwiththesoft
whiteandgreymarkingsontheirfur,makethemthemostgraciousofcreatures.Thesecrowdswere
interspersedwiththehuffing,gruntingmovementsoflargewarthogs,theirtuskscurvingoutand
aroundfromtheirsnubnoses.Iunsuspectinglycameacrossoneatveryclosequartersinthetall
grassanditboltedjustinfrontofmewithsurprisingspeed.Wecrossedthesingletarmacroadladen
withanubisbaboonsandheadedupatasteepinclineintotheforestsofthemountainrangeonthe
northernflankoftheplateau.
Ancient,lichen-coveredmonolithswithpeelingorangetrunkssoaredaboveusinatangleofvines
andcreepersandthenwewereupandoutontoasunnypathwaytraversingtheridgewherethe
vegetationthinnedtolargeexpansesofshortgrassinterspersedbymassesof‘everlastingflower’,a
deciduousbushthatgrowsindenselypackedclumpslikesilveryrockformations.Acollectionof
threemalemountainnyalaemergedfromawoodedthicketontoanopenexpanse.AsIapproached
themtheybolted,theirlargelimbsthrowingupsmallclodsofearthastheycomfortablynavigateda
smallridge,disappearingfromsight.BinderandIstrolledalonginhighspirits,ledbyourguide,Jafer
Mohammed,theheadoftheBaleNyalaGuidingAssociation.Iestimatedhimtobeinhisfiftiesbut
wasnotsoboldastoenquire.Adignifiedandthoughtfulman,Iimmediatelyplacedmytrustinhim,
whichwasatnopointunwarranted.Hemayormaynothaveheardusrole-playingparticularscenes
betweentheJafartheevilvizierandhistalkingparrotIagofromDisney’sAladdin;“PatienceIago,
patience!”andwaseithertoodignifiedtoacknowledgethem,orjustsimplybaffledattheidiocyof
twomenintheirthirties.
Wereachedcampinavalleyfilledwitheverlastingflower.Thehorse-handlershadtakenadirect
routefromDinshoandhadalreadysetupourtentwhileUsmanAbdullah,ourcook,hadfreshcoffee
brewedawaitingourarrival,nexttoanaluminumdishofmixedkolo[roastedbarley]andpeanuts.
Weloungedaboutinthesunonourroll-matssnackingonthisandboiledhalvesofpotatodippedin
saltandTabascosauce.Thissatisfyingstarterwasfollowedbyhugeplatefulsofpennepastaina
spicytomatoandvegetablesauce,toppedoffwithsweetmugful’sofhottea.Iimmediatelyrealized
thatIhadbeenconductingmytripinentirelythewrongmanner,vowingonthespottonevertravel
inAfricaagainwithoutanentourageofatleastfive.MynotionwasconfirmedthenextdayasIawoke
tothesoundofJafer’svoicecallingus.“Binder,Sam,breakfastisready!”.‘Ohyes’,Iinternalised,‘this
ishowyoudoit’.Twomugsofbunaandtwofreshlybakedchapattisdippedinfreshspicyshirobean
curdlater,weshoulderedourpacksandheadedwestdownintotheflatlandsencirclingtheplateau
range.ThelowlandsarethehabitatoftheendemicandendangeredEthiopianWolfandwesaw
severalsolitaryhunterscrossingthedustyplain,theirglossyredfurcatchingthesunlight.
AfterarelativelyshortwalkoffourorfivehourswereachedcampatSodotatofindourtentpitched
nexttotheEthiopianWolfresearchstationcabinthere.Theyaretrulybeautifulanimals,foxlikeand
ratherplayful-lookinginappearance,youforgetthatyouarelookingatanaccomplishedpredator.
Therehadunfortunatelybeenarecentepidemicofadiseasetransmittedfromthedogsofthelocal
herderstothewolves,whichhadtragicallywipedoutalargepercentageoftheirpopulationinthe
previousmonths.IlaterspokewiththeheadoftheFrankfurtZoologicalSociety,whoaredoingas
muchastheycantosavetheremainingwolves,andheexplainedthattheyhadmanagedtovaccinate
asmallnumberofthemintime.Theherderspasturingtheirlivestockintheparkcausesother
problemsincludingerosion.12millionpeopleinthesurroundingareadependonthewaterrun-off
fromtheplateau,whichactslikeagiantspongeforrainwater,andtheerosioncausedby10,000orso
herdersisaffectingthissupplyforallthesepeople.Itisanon-goingissuethatrequiresgovernment
attention.
Iwasstillfullofbeansafterwereachedcampandsaddleduponeofthehorsestogoforaride.Our
horse-handlerswereAbdullah,alargemanwithhugehandsandfeetandthecountenanceofa‘gentle
giant’,andHaji,smallerandcompulsivelycladinabluebobble-hatgivinghimthepermanent
likenessofanEthiopianNoddy.Hajiexplainedtome,throughJafer,thathorsesinEthiopiaare
39
namedaccordingtotheircolouring.OurthreestallionswherethereforenamedOdocha–‘White&
Black’,Adi–‘White’andDama–‘Brown&Red’.InBaleonlymalehorsesareusedforridingand
luggagetransport,thefemaleslefttoraisetheiryounginthefields.Youonlyevermountfromthe
right-hand-sideofthehorseintheregion,andIaccordinglyhoppedupontoDama.Istucktothe
trackastherearemanymole-ratholesontheplain,andtookDamathroughatrot,toacanterthen
finallyintoashortgallop.Itfeltgreattobeoutaloneinthemidstofsuchvastemptyspaces.Ihauled
himtoastopandsatforquitealongtimestaringattheundulatinghillsinthedistance,feelingthe
softbreezeonmyface.
Thehorsesintheparkandthesurroundingareaarelarge,sturdybeastsandbeautifultoride.Iwas
verypleasedtoseehowwelltheyaretreated,withnoorextremelylimitedmarkingsoftraumafrom
over-heavyloads.AbdullahandHajiarebothhighlycompetenthorsemen,literallyhavinggrownup
inthesaddle,anditwaslovelytohaveDama,OdochaandAdiroamingfreearoundourcampsites,
occasionallylyingdownandhavingagoodrollinanyparticularlyappealingdustbaths.Backatthe
camponeofthestationresearchers,anEthiopian,hadunlockedthedoorofthecabinandBinderand
Isatinsideoncowhidesofaswithourfeetupchattingaboutthisandthat.Outsidetinymoreland
chatshoppedaroundpickingatthedirtdailycleanedoutfromthemole-ratholes.Itisasymbiotic
relationshipasifthemorelandchatispresent,themole-ratknowsthereisnoimmediatethreatfrom
predators.Onefatandratherambitiouslittlechathoppedintothecabinentrancewaywhilewewere
eatingdinneratthetable,andwefedhimsomebreadcrumbs.Hewasshortlyjoinedbyhisfriends
andsomeyellow-breastedAbyssinianlongclaws.
InthemorningJafercalledusexcitedlyandwerandowntotheplainwhereafamilyoffourwolves
weremakingtheirwaynorth,oftenstoppingtoplayamongstthemselves,andwewereabletogetup
quiteclose.WethenbeganourascentupandaroundthewesternsideofSanettianditfeltgoodto
makesomealtitude.Wespookedseveralwildhares,eachboltingwithincrediblespeed,andcamped
abouthalfwayupbyanaturalcavecreatedbyahugeboulder,whereUsmanbuiltafireforcooking.
Theboulderwasbeneathalargeridgelinerunningforabout300msomeheightaboveus.Theline
wascomprisedofrockformationsaveragingaboutsixmetershigh,resemblingthestonestatuesof
EasterIsland.Itwaslikecampingbelowanarmyofsentinels.BinderandIclimbedupandontothe
highestsentineltowatchthesaffronorbofthesungentlydipthroughthevalleywehadwalkedup
thatday.Usman,AbdullahandHajirolledoutarugfacingMeccatothenortheast,andinaneatline
boweddownandprayed.Thatnightthetemperatureplummetedataroundmidnightandwewere
bothgladwehadbroughtgoodsleepingbags.
Thenextmorningwewererightupinthegrasslandsoftheplateau,everlastingflowergivingasilver
sheenwithhintsofazuretotherollinghills.Wecouldfeeltheairthinandwereaffordedanamazing
viewacrosstheentirewesternplateautothemountainformationsinthedistance,brokeninlayered
contourslikeploughedearth.Thesentinelsofourcamphadonlybeenaforetasteofwhatwasto
comeasourpathleduspastahugegorgecrownedonallsidesbywhatJafercalled‘thestoneforest’.
Itstretchesformilesandtrulyresemblesanalpineforest,theonlydifferencebeingthatitismade
entirelyoffree-standingsmoothrockformationsthattwistupinbizarre,unpredictableshapes.
Walkinginandaroundthem,weheadedinasouthwesterlydirectionuntilweweredelightedtofind
thatourcampatRafuwassetamongsttheformations,ourtentspitchedinthemiddleofsmallrock
circles.Awomanwithtwoyoungchildrenwasstayinginaverylargegrass-thatchedhutnestled
amongstthestonetrunks.Binder,Jafer,Usman,Haji,Abdullahandmyselfsataroundafireina
smallergrasshutnexttoadung-fencedgoatcorral.Thewomangaveusfreshcowsmilkasagiftof
hospitalityandwedrankitwithourcoffee.
BinderandIdecidedtowalkupanearbyhilltoseetheview.Thelongexpanseofthestepperevealed
itselfwithshadowscastdownfromtheatmosphereglidingacrossthepaleflaxentableland.Facing
south,theplateauplummeteddowninfrontofusforathousandmetersinheather-clad
mountainsidesleadingtogoldenbarleyfields,grovesofgiantbambooandthelichen-covered
HarennaForest,wildarabicacoffeegrowinginthefarsouthwherelionsandwilddogscanstillbe
found.Tothewestlayersofpeaksandridgesbackedupineverwatered-downrowsofcolouruntil
40
theybecameindiscerniblefromafatsky,pregnantwithcumulonimbuscloudsrestinginbillowing
heaps.OnourwaydownBinderplayedsomemusicfromhisphoneandjustasthesunthrewoutits
lastshardsbetweenthegiantlobeliaandthemind-bendingstoneforestinfrontofus,LedZeppelin’s
StairwaytoHeavencameontheplaylist.Nomoreperfectsongcouldhavebetterfitthescenery.In
themorning,lightfloodedthroughtheopenedtentflap,framingaviewofDamagrazing.Weentered
thejungletownofRirathroughcountrysidedottedwithhousesconstructedentirelyfrombamboo
fronds,theweavingtaperinguptoformflimsypoints;thelocalseffectivelylivingingiantbaskets.
WesatbytheroadsideandorderedsodasasbeingaMuslimvillagetheysoldnobeer.Wecontinued
onpastamosqueconstructedentirelyfromcorrugatedtinsheets,andanothertwentyminutesdown
theroadwehadreachedourcampsite,whichwasareliefasitwasveryhotnowthatweweredown
fromthehighlands.Wewereawarethatwewereratherdirtyandsoheadeddowntoanearby
streamforagoodwash.Findingalovelylittlenumbertricklingthroughapasture,wefolloweditup
towhereasmallwaterfallaffordedanaturalshowerbeneathalargetreecoveredinspiderwebs.We
strippedtoourunderpantsandtookturnsscrubbingourselveswithsoapandsplashinginthe
refreshingwater.Backatthecampsitewesatonthesoftgrassintheeveningsunlight,chattingthe
nightawaywithourcompanionsandalocalscoutmanningtheareaforthegovernment.Jafertoldus
thatBinderwasthefirstpersonofIndianheritage“–Hind!”thathehadeverseenwalkinginthe
mountains.Inthemorningthethreeofusventuredintothebambooforestandsatbesidelargeshady
rockpools,watchingten-meterhighwaterfallsgushdownintothem.
OnthewaybacktocampwecrossedtheriverthatleadstothewaterfallsandfoundUsmanand
Abdullahwashingtheirclothesupstreamfromtwoyounggirls,involvedinthesameoccupation.The
girlswerecookingsomeformofinediblesourappleinavatoveralogfireaswhencookedtheapples
makeaneffectivesoap.Thegirlsusedtheirfeettoworkthelatherintothefamilyblanketsamidst
muchgigglingandsnatchingofglancesatthetwoforeigners.Ihadhadtheunprecedentedforesight
thepreviousdaytocallAhmed,Binder’sdriver,andaskhimtobringuseightcoldbottlesofbeer.
Whenwereachedcampwesawthattheminivanhadalreadyarrivedandwesatonthegrass
drinkingthecoldsudswatchingthreehorsesbeingdrivenroundinathreshingcircleinthebarley
fieldnextdoor.ItwasValentinesDayanditseemednotadreadfulwaytospendit.BinderandIsaid
ourgoodbyesafterlunch,“–seeyouCracker,”“–seeyouCoco,”andIfiguredthatnowwasasgooda
timeasanytotrysomekhat.Usmanbroughtaloadfromthevillageandthesixofus,includingthe
scout,satinacircleonthegrass.Abdullahbrieflylefttothestreamtofetchsomewateranduponhis
returnsaidthathehadreceivedacallfromhomeinforminghimthathiswifewashavinga
miscarriageatfivemonthspregnancy.
Heleftimmediatelytothevillagetocatchabus.IsawhimlaterinDinshoandalthoughhiswifehad
indeedlostthechild,shewasnotherselfgreatlyphysicallyharmed,whichisnosmallblessingina
remotearea.Ihadmadesurehewasfullypaidforthetimehemissedduetothistragicoccurrence.
AlthoughallfeelingbadforAbdullah,therewasnothingwecoulddotofurtherhelphimsowe
returnedtoourcircleandpalaver.Onesimplychewsandswallowsthekhatleavesamidsipsofwater
toclearyourmouthout.Althoughnotextremelypotentinitseffects,Igraduallyfeltacompelling
feelingofelationcombinedwithastrongclarityofthought,andenjoyedspeakingwithJaferatlength
onanumberoftopics.Wehaddinner,afterwhichIhadasmallstomachache,andIawokelateinthe
nightandwasunabletogetbacktosleep,whichisapparentlyoneofthecommonsideeffects.
Emergingfrommytentinthenight,thestarsoftheMilkyWaysprawledacrosstheskyinaglittering
mass,ahalfmoonilluminatingthepalefields.
InthemorningJaferandIsetoffuptheroadtoclimbbackintothehighlands.HajiandUsman
followedshortlyafterassoonasthehorseswereloaded,ourpartyofsixnowreducedtofour.
FollowingthewindingtrackupwepassedagroupofColumbusmonkeysjumpingbetweenseveral
largetrees.Theblackandwhitemarkingsoftheirfacesgivetheimpressionthattheyarewearinga
Cardinal’shat;onemalesatwatchingusinreligiousreposeonahighbranch,hislongslendertail
withitsbushywhiteendhangingdown.Westoppedforashortbreakintheshadebetweensome
giantheathertreesandayoungmanwithanIslamic-stylebeard,shavedatthefrontbutlefttogrow
41
thickaroundthechopsandchin,walkeddownthetracktowardsusfromtheotherdirection.He
knewJaferandthetwomenchattedinOromowhileI,forlackofanythingbettertodo,sharpenedhis
plastic-handledmachetewithasharpeningstoneIkeptinmypack.Justaswenearedthetopofthe
climbthehorsescaughtusupandweallsattogethereatingchocolatespreadlatheredoverchapattis
inthesunshine,playingonourphones.
Oursupplieshavingdwindled,onlytwoofthehorsesnowcarriedtheluggageandUsmanandHaji
tookturnsinridingOdocha.Indirectcontrasttothenaturalabundanceofthevalleywehadjust
comefrom,backontheplateautherewasaneeriesilence,brokenonlybythewhistlingofthewind.
Wemadefortheleeofatoweringmountainofrock,acoupleofgrasshutshuddledarounditsbase,
andcampwasstruckassoonasHajiconfirmedtherewasgoodwaterinanearbystream.Wewereat
thefootofTuludimtu,thehighestpeakoftheplateauandthesecondhighestofthecountry.Itwas
supposedtobeanotherthreedaysbacktoDinshofromthiscampbutIruinedeveryone’splanby
headinguptothetopaloneasitwasonlymidafternoonanditwasjustrightthere.Hoppingoverthe
streamIpickedmywaythroughtheboulder-strewnlandscapeonafaintpaththatledupinalong
arcingcurvetothesummit,TowardsthetopIcouldreallyfeelthethinairandwasbreathingvery
heavily.
Thereisasmalltelephonestationperchedonthepinnaclewithnumerouscream-colouredsatellites
fixedtothesteelmeshofatower.IcouldtellthatJaferhadfeltguiltyinmygoingaloneandhehad
saidthathewouldphonetocheckonme.AtthetopIrealizedthatmyphonebatterywasjustabout
todieandknewthathewouldworryandprobablyevencomeaftermeifhecouldn’tcontactme,soI
laidmyfoldingsolarpanelsonarockwiththecordpluggedintomyphone.Thesatellitestationis
alwayspostedwithaguardonafive-dayrotationandthecurrentpoorsoulondutycameoverto
greetme.HehadonalargeALASKAbeaniehatwithascarfhungoverhisheadbeneathitanddown
eachsidelookinglikelongears.Hehadnofrontteethandsomehowresembledafriendlyteddybear.
Ialsohadmyhand-heldsteady-cam-mountedvideocamerawithme,whichdoesnotlookunlikea
lasergun,andhadastrangelittleStarWarsmomenttomyself,reasoningthatImustjustbetripping
onthealtitudesomewhat.Sayingthat,theviewaroundmewasfromanotherplanet;beneathacobalt
sky,lightflaxenshadestouchedwitholive,azureandrustspreadoutallaroundme,shadowsfrom
fast-movingcloudsdriftingacrossthematpace.
ItwasbarrenandbeautifulandIfeltapronouncedsenseofcalm.JafercalledandIlethimknowthat
Iwasfineandwouldheaddowninanhourorso.Myteddybearfriendturnedonhisboxradiowhich
proceededtoblareoutnationalsongs,mostofwhichIknewandwasnowthoroughlyfed-upof,soI
movedawayfromhimandwalkedaroundthesatellitestationlookingattheviewsonallsides.Itfelt
liketheendofmyjourney.Iwouldneverbeabletotopthis.Ialsomissedhavingmyfriendaroundto
shareitwith.Ispentwhatmayhavebeenanhourlostinthought,morefeelingtheplacethan
observingit,baskinginthefar-reachingperspectivesthatmountainsaffordtolife.Isaidafinal
farewelltothevastnessandheadedbacktocamp,eachstepnowareturncomparedwiththeodyssey
thathadprecededthem.Inthemorning,asJaferandIskirtedthesouthernbaseofTuludimtu
headingeast,aseaofcloudnestledrightuptothetable’sedgeinplumesoffluffycottonwool
bedding,thevalleyofRiranowcompletelyobliteratedbythewispymass.Regardlessofastrong
windwhippingatourfaces,theskindryingoutunderthesun’sundilutedforce,Ijusthadtoseethe
cloudlinefromalittlehigherupandaskedJafertowaitintheshadeofalargeboulderwhileI
clamberedhalfwaybackupthemountainsidetotakeinthewholeview.
Afterdroppingdownalittlefromalongwalkoverthecloudland,wepassedourinitiallyplanned
campsiteofGebreGaracha[BlackWater],ahugewindsweptlakeofAtlanticblueandhadourlunch
thereinstead.WethencontinuedourroutemarchnorthwardwithalotofgroundtocoverandJafer
settingafinepace.Westormedacrossawidealpinevalleyofgrassandeverlastingflower,small
peaksoneithersideandstraightahead,culminatingintheperfectpyramidofWassamaMountain.It
feltlikeacrossbetweenSwitzerlandandtheLakeDistrict,onlylifteduponstilts,floatingoncloud,in
Africa.Wereachedcampafteraboutthreeandahalfhourswithnobreak.Wehadbothkeptagood
paceandenjoyedthemarchbutuponarrivingtheadrenalinestoppedandbothofusfelttired.Jafer
42
curledupinathickgabinexttoafirethatUsmanhadbuiltinanaturalcave(heandHajihadtakena
shortcutwiththehorsesskippingthelake)andIdozedinmytentfortwentyminutes.Ayounggirl
fromafamilyofherdersstayingupaboveusbroughtuscowsmilkandJaferandHajijokedwithher
asshehadneverseenaforeignerbefore.WegaveherahotchapatticoveredinjambutIdon’tthink
shelikeditmuch.
Thestarsshonebrightlyasweallsataroundthefireintheleeofthecave,smokeoccasionally
driftingintooureyes.OnthelongdecenttoDinshothefollowingdayIrealizedthatwehadgained
theplateauviasomethingofasidestairwell,asthenorthernapproachwasopenandlargeandyou
couldseeeverything.AsthemountainsofSanettirecededbehindusinacrownoftussling
watercolourpeaks,lessermountainsandscenesofpastoralblisspresentedthemselves.Wewalked
throughmanysettlementswithmuchharvestingofbarleyandhorsethreshing.Onefarmerholdinga
smallcurvedsickleknewJaferandjokedforhimtocomeandhelp.Treesappearedagainand
childrenplayedaroundstreamstricklingthroughsoftpastures.Wewerebackintheworld.Ihadmet
anItaliangentlemancalledLuigiintheGheraltaMountainswhohaslivedformanyyearsinEthiopia.
Hestoodmeanexcellentlunchonetimeandafterwardswhenweweretalkinghehadsaid:“You
know,ifyoureallywanttoseethiscountryyouhavetogetofftheroads.Youhavetowalkthroughit
onyourowntwofeet.Yourowntwofeet!”Hewasn’tlying.
—
AfterabriefsojournintheSothernNationseatingfriedfishandwatchinghipposatlakeAwasaI
headedbacktoAddis.MytripwasoverandIknewit.WhereaspreviouslyIhadfoundthecapital
claustrophobicanddirty,nowIreveledinitsdiversity,cravingagaintheluxuriesofmodern
civilization.IwenttodinneratthebestItalianintown[Castellis-weknewitwasthebestplacein
townbecausetherewasaframedphotooftheproprietorandhiswifegawpingnexttoAngelinaJolie
andBradPitt]withanAmericanfriendofmineandwehadspaghettiinatrufflesauceandlinguini
withsaffronanddrankgoodredwine.IwenttowatchabandcomprisedfromalloftheAfrican
nationsalongtheNileplayinatheatreoninstrumentsIdidn’tunderstand.Isatinthegardenofthe
oldesthotelinthecountrydrinkingmacchiatos,writingintheshadeofatree.Iwenttohouseparties.
Iwentonadatewithalocalwomantoawinebarandwetalkedforfivehours.Somefriendsfrom
LondonwerehostingaconferencethatweekatTheSheratonandwestayeduplatelisteningtolive
jazzwiththebartabcovered.ItooktaxiswhenIknewIcouldhavetakenthemetro,Ihadspaghetti
withcreamandspinachforbreakfastwithabeeraswell.
Butitsoonbegantowearoff,andinthequieterdaysasIcastmymindbackovermyjourney,I
realizedthatthecountryhad,withoutmerealizingit,reignitedasmallflamewithinmybreastthatI
hadcarelesslyallowedtobecomesmothered,starvedofoxygen,andfinallyextinguishedaltogether.
Hereithadcontinuedtoburnwithanever-increasingstrength,asthedaysandmilespast,untilonce
againitwasaroaringflame.ForIfeltalive.Ifeltlifefloodingdownthroughmyveryarteries.And
youcan’taskformorethanthatnowcanyou.
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Epilogue
AfterafewdrabdaysinLondonIreturnedtoAfrica,thistimetothesun-drenchedAtlanticcoastof
Moroccotoeditmynotesandtobuildacompany.Withafreshenvironmentandperspective,my
memoriesofEthiopiasolidifiedasmonumentsofthemindinastrangepaleclusterofexperienceand
emotion,separateandunconnected,aloneplateauofgrasshutsandeucalyptussmells.Lookingback
itmaybethemostrealplaceIhaveeverbeento.Agoodcountryinabadneighborhood,forthisand
otherreasonsEthiopiahasnotfullydevelopedtheinfrastructurethatmakesiteasytoseethe
wondersthatthecountryhastooffer,norappliedtheresourcesorknow-howtoworkonitsglobal
PR.ByfoundingYellowWoodAdventures,thenameinhomagetoRobertFrost’stimelesspoem,I
wishtocreatetheopportunityforotherstoseeoneoftheworld’slesstravelledandmostbeautifulof
roads,inawaythatbenefitsboththemselvesandthepeoplewholivethere.
Taghazout,Morocco
TheRoadNotTaken
BYROBERTFROST
Tworoadsdivergedinayellowwood,
AndsorryIcouldnottravelboth
Andbeonetraveler,longIstood
AndlookeddownoneasfarasIcould
Towhereitbentintheundergrowth;
Thentooktheother,asjustasfair,
Andhavingperhapsthebetterclaim,
Becauseitwasgrassyandwantedwear;
Thoughasforthatthepassingthere
Hadwornthemreallyaboutthesame,
Andboththatmorningequallylay
Inleavesnostephadtroddenblack.
Oh,Ikeptthefirstforanotherday!
Yetknowinghowwayleadsontoway,
IdoubtedifIshouldevercomeback.
Ishallbetellingthiswithasigh
Somewhereagesandageshence:
Tworoadsdivergedinawood,andI—
Itooktheonelesstraveledby,
Andthathasmadeallthedifference.
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