Chesapeake 17 Kayak

Chesapeake 17 Kayak
An Apprentice Kit
Skill Level 1
Kit #989
All Wood
Display Model
About This Construction Manual
This manual divides the construction into sub-assemblies; Frames, Planking, etc. Read each
section carefully and identify all parts before starting on a particular sub-assembly. There is a complete
description of all of the parts under “Kit Contents” (page #4). Please check to be sure that your kit is
complete; that it is not missing any parts.
The illustrations in this manual clarify and detail many of the assemblies shown on the plan, and
the two should be used together during construction.
Metric Conversions
This manual shows dimensions in inches and metric, the metric dimensions being given in
parenthesis following each inch figure. Example: 3” (76). Since there is rarely a direct inch to metric
conversion, in many cases a close approximation is quoted.
Customer Service
Should you experience a problem with this kit, we recommend you see your dealer first. If you
are unable to solve the problem, please contact us at:
Customer Service Department
Midwest Products Co., Inc.
P.O. Box 564 Hobart, IN 46342
(800) 348-3497
E-mail: [email protected]
This product is sold with the exclusion of all warranty expressed or implied, statutory or
otherwise. Buyer assumes all risks of use.
400 S. Indiana St. PO Box 564
Hobart, IN 46342
Phone: (800) 348-3497
Fax: (219) 947-2347
www.midwestproducts.com
P-609
Table of Contents
I. Chesapeake 17 Kayak......................................................................................... 2
Tools and Materials You Will Need........................................................................................... 3
Paints....................................................................................................................................... 3
II. Kit Contents................................................................................................................. 4
III. Construction Tips................................................................................................... 5
Cutting...................................................................................................................................... 5
Using Adhesives....................................................................................................................... 5
Assembly.................................................................................................................................. 5
IV. Assembly Instructions........................................................................................ 6
Hull Construction...................................................................................................................... 6 - 7
Planking.................................................................................................................................... 7 - 10
Bow/Stern Blocks..................................................................................................................... 11 - 12
Deck......................................................................................................................................... 13 - 15
Coaming/Hatches..................................................................................................................... 15 - 16
Seat.......................................................................................................................................... 17 - 18
Paddle...................................................................................................................................... 18 - 19
Bungies.................................................................................................................................... 20
Hatch Straps............................................................................................................................. 20 - 22
V. Acknowledgements............................................................................................... 22
VI. Product Evaluation Card.................................................................................. 23
Chesapeake 17 Kayak
Before becoming one of the most popular types of watercraft in North America, kayaks enjoyed
thousands of years of evolution among the ice floes above the Arctic Circle. The Inuits and other indigenous Arctic cultures relied upon their sealskin covered kayaks for hunting and travel in cold, dangerous
waters, and modern kayak designers can do little to improve upon the hull shapes they developed.
Today, recreational kayaks are loosely divided into two categories: whitewater kayaks and sea
kayaks. Sea kayaks are meant for cruising on open waters. They are long and narrow for speed and for
straight steering in wind and waves, and they can carry a good load of camping gear for trips of a month
or more.
The Chesapeake 17 sea kayak is produced by Chesapeake Light Craft for construction by amateur builders. While easy to build from a kit or plans, the Chesapeake 17 is a high-performance boat,
combining the crisp handling and good looks of the hard-chined, V-bottomed West Greenland style hull
design with the long waterline and high volume of modern expedition sea kayaks. The standard
Chesapeake 17 is built of African mahogany plywood fastened together with epoxy glue, with a sheathing of fiberglass cloth set in epoxy.
Chesapeake Light Craft is one of the largest manufacturers of kayak kits in the world and the
Chesapeake 17 is their most popular model. Thousands of Chesapeake 17s have been assembled by
amateur boatbuilders from plans and kits since the design was introduced in 1996.
Chesapeake Light Craft
1805 George Avenue
Annapolis, Maryland 21401
(410) 267-0137
www.clcboats.com
2
Tools and Materials You Will Need
Instant Setting (thin CA) Cyanoacrylate
(super-glue type) adhesive - Used to instantly
bond parts.
6” and 18” (152 and 457) Steel Straight Edge Used to measure parts and as a guide for cutting
straight lines.
Slow Setting (medium CA) Cyanoacrylate
(super-glue type) adhesive - Used to glue parts
that are to be moved for alignment.
Hobby Knife and Extra Blades
Note: Cyanoacrylate adhesives are manufactured in many different formulations, some of
which do not work well on models. Consult your
local hobby dealer for the proper adhesive
brands.
Paper Towel
Warning: Cyanoacrylate adhesives cure (dry)
very rapidly. Read all warnings and safety precautions on the label.
Small Square
Accelerator - Used to speed up the drying time
of the cyanoacrylate adhesives.
#0000 Steel Wool
Water-based (white) Glue - Optional adhesive
instead of cyanoacrylates.
Sanding Blocks - Glue pieces of sandpaper to
one side of a block about 1/2” x 3” x 6” (13 x 76
x 152).
#120, #320 and #400 Grit Sandpaper - Used to
sand and shape wood parts.
Tack Rag
Wax Paper
Pencil
Jeweler’s Files
Pin Vise - The pin vise is a small handle and
chuck for holding a drill bit.
.025” Drill Bit
Nail Clippers
Masking Tape
Glue Stick
Paints
The following list of paints were used on the prototype seen on the box cover. However, in real
life, kayaks tend to reflect their owner’s personal likes and skills, so it is quite appropriate to paint your
model to suit your own taste. Your Hobby Dealer can recommend appropriate paints and explain their
application.
Paints Used on the Prototype Chesapeake 17 Model
Testors Flat White (spray) stock #1258
Testors Gloss White (spray) stock #1245
Testors Glosscote (spray) stock #1261
Available from your Hardware Store:
Early American Stain 8oz.
3
Kit Contents
Stripwood
Part No.Qty.
DimensionsMetricDescription
34600
1
1/16” x 3/16” x 6-7/8”
1.5 x 4.7 x 175
Mahogany Paddle Blades
30069
4
3/32” x 3/32” x 17-7/8”
2.3 x 2.3 x 454
Bass Chine / Sheer Clamps
34598
2
1/4” x 1/4” x 17-7/8”
6.4 x 6.4 x 454
Bass Strongback Rails
Dowels
34599
1
1/8” x 7-1/2”
3.2 x 191
Dowel Paddle Handle
Pre-Shaped Parts
34597
34595
34596
1
1
1
1/4” x 1/4” x 1-7/8”
11/16” x 13/16” x 1-5/16”
21/32” x 21/32” x 1-3/16”
6.4 x 6.4 x 47.6
18 x 21 x 33
17 x 17 x 30
Bass Paddle Jig
Bass Bow Block
Bass Stern Block
Fittings
M-813
M-814
M-815
M-816
M-817
1
1
1
24
1
1/8” x 24” Black Ribbon
4’ Black Elastic Thread
3” x 3” Black Felt
1/2” Pins
.016” Photo-Etched Brass
3.2 x 610 Black Ribbon
1219 Black Elastic Thread
76 x 76 Black Felt
13 Pins
.4 Photo-Etched Brass
Hatch Straps
Hold Down Bungies
Seat Cushion Material
Deck Fasteners
Set of 6 Buckles
Miscellaneous
P-610
P-609
1
1
12” x 24”
8-1/2” x 11”
305 x 610
216 x 279
Plan (2 sheets)
24 page Manual
Die-Cut Parts
SPINE
SIDE PLANK
Part #34590 - 1 Required
Lite Ply 3mm x 1-7/8” x 15-7/8”
(3 x 48 x 403)
BOTTOM PLANK
Part #34591 - 2 Required
Bass 1/32” x 3” x 17-7/8”
(.8 x 76 x 454)
SEAT BACK
SEAT BOTTOM
DECK
REAR HATCH
FORWARD HATCH
Part #34592 - 1 Required
Ply 1/32” x 3-7/8” x 17-7/8”
(.8 x 98 x 454)
F-2
F-1
Laser-Cut Parts
COAMING SPACERS
Part #34594 - 1 Required
Ply 1/32” x 4” x 6”
(.8 x 102 x 152)
F-3
Part #34593 - 1 Required
Lite Ply 3mm x 2” x 7”
(3 x 51 x 178)
4
F-4
COAMING
Construction Tips
Cutting
When cutting parts with your knife, make the first cut with light pressure, being careful that the
point of the knife goes exactly where you want it. Subsequent cuts should be made with moderate pressure until the part is cut out. Use a steel straight edge to guide the blade when cutting straight lines.
Adhesives
Although water-based (white) glues can be used to build this kit, we found it advantageous to
use cyanoacrylate (CA) adhesives, because they cure in seconds, so pins or tape are not necessary to
hold thin or small parts in position.
When using instant setting (thin) cyanoacrylate adhesives, hold the parts to be joined in their
exact positions and then run the adhesive into the joint. The parts will bond instantly.
When using slow setting (medium) cyanoacrylate adhesives, apply the adhesive to one of the
parts and then join the assembly. Hold the part in position until the adhesive cures, about 30 seconds.
Accelerator can be sprayed over the adhesive to cure it instantly.
The instructions will tell you which adhesive to use for each assembly.
Assembly
In order to build this model correctly and easily, these instructions must be followed in the order
that they are presented.
Check-off boxes () appear next to each instruction throughout the text to help you keep track of
your progress. Dual check-off boxes () appear next to the instructions that are to be repeated.
Some of the sections in this manual do not have check-off boxes. These sections explain
general procedures, rather than specific instructions.
The illustrations in this manual are not necessarily proportionally correct. Their purpose is to
augment the written instructions, and also to clarify and detail many of the assemblies shown on the
plan. This manual and the plan should be used together during construction.
Use the items listed on the previous pages to mark and identify all of the parts you will need to
build this kit. Once you have made sure that all of the parts listed are in the box you can begin
construction. If there are some missing parts, refer to the front of this manual for customer service.
Some of the parts on the die-cut and laser-cut sheets are held in place with notches. Before
attempting to remove any die-cut or laser-cut parts, cut through these notches with a sharp hobby knife.
5
IMPORTANT
Before beginning construction, tape the two plan
sheets together as indicated on the plans.
Hull Construction
 1. Cover the building jig portion of the plan with wax
paper.

2. Cross pin the two 1/4” x 1/4” x 17-7/8”
(6.4 x 6.4 x 454) Basswood strongback rails in WAX PAPER
place.
F-4
 3. Carefully remove frames F-1 through F-4 from the
laser-cut sheet.
 4. Use a sanding block with #120 grit sandpaper to
lightly sand the edges of the parts, removing only
the burrs and rough spots. Be sure to hold the
sanding block at a 90 degree angle while sanding.
 5. Place F-1 through F-4 on the strongback rails. Use
a square to position them perpendicular to the
strongback rails and glue in place with medium CA.
 6. Position the spine in place by inserting F-1 through
F-4 into the corresponding slots of the spine. Sight
down the spine to be sure it is straight and comes
into contact with F-1 through F-4.
Note: The spine is tabbed with the cockpit cutout.
Do not remove at this time. If you accidentally crack
the tabs, use masking tape on both sides to secure
the cutout to the spine.
F-3
F-2
SQUARE
F-1
SPINE
DO NOT
REMOVE
 7. Make any necessary adjustments and glue each
joint with medium CA.
 8. Note: The hull is now inverted on the strongback.
Any reference to the top and bottom refers to the
hull as it floats upright on the water.
 9. Using medium CA, glue a 3/32” x 3/32” x 17-7/8”
(2.3 x 2.3 x 454) Basswood sheer clamp in the
upper notch of F-1, as shown.
 10. Working from F-1 towards F-4, glue the sheer
clamp in the upper notch of each frame, as
shown.
 11. Repeat steps 9 - 10 for the opposite side.
6
SHEER
CLAMP
TRIM FLUSH
 12. Using medium CA, glue a 3/32” x 3/32” x 17-7/8”
(2.3 x 2.3 x 454) Basswood chine clamp to the
edge of F-1, as shown.
 13. Working from F-1 towards F-4, glue the chine
clamp in the lower notch of F-2 & F-3, and to the
edge of F-4, as shown.
F-4
 14. Repeat steps 12 - 13 for the opposite side.
 15. Trim and sand the sheer/chine clamps flush with
the outside edges of F-1 and F-4, as shown.
F-1
 16. Remove the pins holding the strongback rails to
the building board. Do not remove the hull from
the strongback rails at this time!
 17. It is necessary to “fair” the sheer/chine clamps so
the bottom and side planks conform to the shape
of each frame. An easy method of obtaining the
correct shape is as follows:
 18. At each frame, carefully sand the outside edge of
the sheer clamp flush with the sides of each
frame, as shown.
Note: Be careful not to sand too much and alter
the shape of the frames.
 19. Repeat the above process for the side and bottom
of the chine clamp, as shown.
Tip: An easy way to check your progress is to
use a 6” (152) straight edge. Place the edge of
the straight edge against the side and bottom of
each frame. The straight edge should lay flush
with the side and bottom of each frame, as
shown.
 20. Using 120 grit sandpaper on a sanding block, fair
the sheer/chine clamps along their complete
length.
Note: Use the 6” (152) straight edge to verify
your progress.
Planking
The die-cut bottom and side planks are slightly oversize
to allow for optimal positioning. The excess will be
trimmed and sanded to the final shape.
SHEER
CLAMP
F-3
SAND AWAY
SHADED AREA
CHINE
CLAMP
STRAIGHT
EDGE
SHEER
CLAMP
CHINE
CLAMP
INCORRECT
SHEER
CLAMP
CHINE
CLAMP
CORRECT
ALIGN WITH
CENTERLINE
OF SPINE
 21. Re-pin the strongback rails to the building board.
 22. Position the die-cut 1/32” (.8) Basswood bottom
plank so that the inside edge is exactly on the
centerline of the spine, with the plank overhanging F-1 through F-4 equally.
OVERHANG
FRAMES
7
 23.Carefully lift the bottom plank from the hull and
place a bead of medium CA on the bottom of F-3,
as shown. Replace the bottom plank as before
and allow to dry completely.
GLUE TO F-3
 24. Again, carefully lift the bottom plank from F-2 and
apply a bead of medium CA on the bottom of F-2,
as shown. Press the bottom plank against F-2
and allow to dry completely.
GLUE TO F-2
GLUE TO F-4
 25. Lift each end of the bottom plank and place a
drop of medium CA on the bottom of F-1 and F-4.
Press the bottom plank against F-1 & F-4 and
allow to dry completely.
GLUE TO F-1
 26. Repeat steps 22 - 25 for the opposite side.
 27. Remove the pins holding the strongback rails to the
building board. Do not remove the hull from the
strongback rails at this time!
 28. Turn over the hull and using thin CA, glue the bottom plank to the spine, chine clamp and each
frame from the inside of the hull.
BOTTOM
PLANK
8
GLUE TO SPINE
AND FRAMES
FROM THE INSIDE
 29. Use a hobby knife to carefully trim the bottom plank
about 1/16” (1.5) from the outside edge of the
chine clamp.
SAND FLUSH WITH
CHINE CLAMPS
 30. Sand the bottom plank flush with the outside edge
of the chine clamp with #120 grit sanding block.
Be sure to maintain the correct shape of the hull.
TOP VIEW
 31. Re-pin the strongback rails to the building board.
F-4
 32. Position the die-cut 1/32” (.8) Basswood side
plank with an equal amount overhanging F-1 &
F-4.
Note: The tall end of the plank goes toward F-1.
SIDE PLANK
TALL END
F-1
 33. Place a bead of medium CA on the side of F-3,
as shown. Press the side plank against F-3 and
allow to dry completely.
GLUE TO F-3
 34. Carefully lift the side plank away from the hull
and place a bead of medium CA on the side of
F-2, as shown. Press the side plank against F-2
and allow to dry completely.
GLUE TO F-2
9
GLUE TO F-4
 35. Lift each end of the side plank away from the hull
and place a bead of medium CA on the side of
F-1 & F-4. Press the side plank against F-1 & F-4
and allow to dry completely.
 36. Repeat steps 32 - 35 for the opposite side.
GLUE TO F-1
 37. Remove the pins holding the strongback rails to the
building board.
 38. Using a hobby knife, carefully cut through the tabs
on the frames to remove the strongback rails and
frame jigs from the hull, as shown.
REMOVE STRONGBACK
RAILS AND JIG FRAMES
TRIM FLUSH
TO F-4
 39. Using medium CA, glue the side plank to the chine
clamp and the sheer clamp from the inside. Trim
and sand the bottom and side planks flush with the
outside edges of F-1 and F-4, as shown.
TRIM FLUSH
TO F-1
TRIM FLUSH
CHINE CLAMP
 40. Carefully trim and sand the side planks flush with
the bottom plank and the top of the sheer clamp, as
shown.
TRIM FLUSH
SHEER CLAMP
10
CENTERLINES
Bow/Stern Blocks
 41. Carefully mark the exact center around the bow
and stern blocks, as shown, Using a straight
edge, draw a centerline on the top, bottom and
front surfaces of the blocks, as shown.
Note: These centerlines act as reference lines
and it is important that they are correct.
SEAM OF BOTTOM
PLANKS
 42. Using medium CA, glue the bow block to F-1. Be
sure that the bottom centerline on the bow block
is positioned in-line with the seam of the bottom
planks. Also, the top centerline on the bow block
is positioned in the middle of F-1.
CENTERLINE
 43. Carefully cut the bow block template from the
plan along the dotted lines.
BOW BLOCK
TEMPLATE
 44. Using a glue stick, glue the bow block template
to the top of the bow block. Be sure to keep the
centerlines in-line, as shown.
TRIM TO HERE
 45. Using a hobby knife, carefully shave off small
slices of the excess bow block. Trim the bow
block to the template lines, as shown.
REMOVE SHADED
AREA
11
CENTERLINE
 46. Now, trim both sides of the bow block to conform
to the side planks. Only trim the sides to the centerline on the front of the bow block, as shown.
Be careful not to trim through the centerline on the
front of the bow block, changing the profile shape.
REMOVE SHADED
AREA
FRONT VIEW
TRIM TO CONFORM TO
SIDE PLANKS
SHAPE TO CONFORM
TO BOTTOM PLANKS
 47. Using #120 grit sanding block, sand the bow block
sides to final shape. Be careful not to sand
through the centerline on the front of the bow
block, changing the profile shape.
 48. Sand the bottom of the bow block to conform to
the bottom planks, as shown.
CENTERLINE
 49. Using a hobby knife, peel off the bow block
template. Sand the top of the bow block to conform with the top of F-1 and the sheer clamps, as
shown.
Note: The top of the bow block should maintain
the camber of the deck.
 50. Repeat steps 42 - 49 for the stern block.
F-1
REMOVE SHADED
AREA
FRONT VIEW
SHAPE TO CONFORM
TO F-1
CUT TABS HERE
 51. Using a hobby knife, carefully cut the two tabs at
the top of the spine holding the cockpit cutout.
Carefully bend the cockpit cutout over and remove
it from the hull.
 52. Sand the cockpit cutout area smooth.
REMOVE SHADED
AREA
12
Deck
 53. Prime the outside of the hull and between F-2 and
F-3 inside the hull.
Note: The primer will seal the grain of the wood,
allowing for a smooth finish. In addition, the primer will show any areas that need more sanding.
PRIME SHADED
AREA
STAIN ENTIRE
SHADED AREA
 54. Sand the primed areas with #320 grit sandpaper.
 55. Continue priming and sanding between coats until
you are satisfied with the appearance.
 56. While the hull is being primed, stain the complete
top and cockpit area inside the die-cut 1/32” (.8)
plywood deck.
STAIN UNDERSIDE OF DARKER AREA
PAINT COCKPIT
AREA
 57. When satisfied with the cockpit area inside the
hull, mask the hull, as shown.
 58. Paint the cockpit flat white. Allow to dry
completely. Remove the masking tape.
 59. Place the stained deck upside down on the
building board.
LL
HU R
K
E
S
MA H PAP
T
WI
BEAD OF
MEDIUM CA
 60. Place a bead of medium CA on the top of the
spine from the front edge of the cockpit cutout to
the bow block, as shown.
 61. Turn the hull upside down and center it on the
deck, as shown. Be sure the front of the deck is
facing the front of the hull! Allow to dry
completely.
Note: Do not glue along the edges of the deck at
this time!
DECK
13
BEAD OF
MEDIUM CA
 62. Place a bead of medium CA on the top of the spine
from F-3 to the stern block. Press the deck against
the spine and allow to dry completely.
F-3
GLUE HERE
ST
IN P
A
AG AM
S CL
S
E
R
PR HEE
S
 63. Place a bead of medium CA on top of F-1, F-2
and the front 6” of the sheer clamp, as shown.
Turn the hull upside down on the building board
and press the deck against the sheer clamp, as
shown. Allow to dry completely.
GLUE HERE
 64. Apply a bead of medium CA on top of the sheer
clamp from 6” (152) back to F-3, as shown. Turn
the hull upside down on the building board and
press the deck against the sheer clamp, as
shown. Allow to dry completely.
ST
AIN P
G
S A LAM
ES R C
R
P
EE
SH
GLUE HERE
 65. Apply a bead of medium CA on top of the sheer
clamp, F-3 & F-4, as shown. Turn the hull upside
down on the building board and press the deck
against the sheer clamp, as shown. Allow to dry
completely.
 66. Repeat steps 63 - 65 for the opposite side.
14
T
INS
A
P
G
S A CLAM
S
E
PR EER
SH
 67. Carefully trim and sand the deck flush with the
side planks, as shown.
TRIM FLUSH
SPRAY POLYURETHANE
 68. Mask off the inside of the cockpit and deck sides
with masking tape, as shown.
MASK WITH
PAPER
 69. Seal the deck with three coats of Testor's Gloss
Clear Coat. Sand between each coat with #0000
steel wool.
MASK WITH
PAPER
 70. Remove the masking tape from the hull.
 71. Mask off the top of the deck with masking tape.
Leave about 1/8” (3.2) of deck around the edge,
as shown.
MASK WITH
TAPE
 72. Spray a light coat of Testor’s gloss clear coat
around the edge of the masking tape.
Note: The clear coat seals the edge of the
masking tape to the deck. If any paint “leaks”
under the masking tape, it will be clear paint on
clear paint. Allow to dry completely.
 73. Spray paint the hull. Allow to dry completely.
 74. Remove the masking tape from the deck.
Coaming
 75. Using a sharp hobby knife, carefully cut through
the tabs and remove the coaming and the two
coaming spacers from the laser-cut 1/32” (.8)
plywood.
 76. Using medium CA, glue the two coaming spacers
together, as shown.
COAMING
SPACERS
15
 77. Carefully sand the inside and outside edges of the
coaming and coaming spacer with #120 grit sandpaper. This is to remove the charring left from the
laser-cutting operation.
 78. Remove the front and rear hatches from the die-cut
1/32” (.8) plywood.
 79. Apply a coat of stain to the top of both hatches, the
coaming and the edges of the coaming spacer.
Allow the stain to dry completely.
STAIN
STAIN
COAMING
 80. Using medium CA, glue the coaming to the
coaming spacer, as shown.
COAMING
SPACERS
REAR
HATCH
 81. Seal the hatches and coaming with three coats of
Testor's Gloss Clear Coat. Sand between coats
with #0000 steel wool.
COAMING
 82. Using medium CA, glue the hatches and coaming to
the deck at the locations shown on the plan.
FORWARD
HATCH
MASK
 83. Mask off the inside of the cockpit with masking tape,
as shown.
 84. Apply two coats of Testor’s gloss clear coat to the
complete kayak.
16
Seat
 85. Remove the seat bottom from the die-cut 1/32”
(.8) plywood.
 86. Cut the 3” x 3” (76 x 76) felt in two pieces,
1-1/2” x 3” (51 x 76).
CUT AROUND
SEAT BOTTOM 1/16”
SEAT
BOTTOM
 87. Remove the protective backing paper from one of
the felt pieces. Place the seat bottom in the
center of the felt, as shown.
 88. Carefully trim the felt about 1/16” (1.5) around the
seat bottom, as shown.
FELT
3”
1-1/2”
 89. Fold the 1/16” (1.5) overhang around the edges of
the seat bottom.
CANISTER
 90. Remove the seat back from the die-cut 1/32” (.8)
Basswood.
SEAT
BACK
TAPE
 91. Dampen the seat back with warm water and tape
around a film canister or glue bottle to shape it, as
shown.
PIN
HOLES
 92. Using a pin, make several pricks through the tape
and into the wood. This allows the water to
evaporate. Allow to dry for a couple of hours.
TH
IN
 93. Carefully remove the tape.
 94. Using thin CA, saturate the seat back to maintain
the curve.
CA
TOP VIEW OF
SEAT BACK
SEAT
BACK
17
 95. Remove the protective backing paper from the
remaining felt piece. Apply the felt to the inside of
the seat back, as shown.
 96. Carefully trim the felt about 1/16” (1.5) around the
seat back. Fold the 1/16” (1.5) overhang around
the edges of the seat back.
FELT THE CONCAVE SIDE OF
THE SEAT
BACK
SEAT BACK
SEAT BOTTOM
 97. Using medium CA, glue the seat bottom and back
inside the cockpit, as shown on the plan.
Paddle
 98. Cut four paddle blades, each 1-1/2” (38) long, from
the 1/16” x 3/16” x 6-7/8” (1.5 x 4.7 x 175)
Mahogany.
1-1/2”
DOWEL PADDLE
HANDLE
PADDLE
BLADES
 99. Using medium CA, glue two paddle blades to one
end of the 1/8” x 7-1/2” (3.2 x 191) Dowel paddle
handle, as shown. Be sure to align the paddle
blades parallel to each other.
18
HORIZONTAL
LINE
 100. Position the completed end of the paddle against
the angle on the paddle jig, as shown.
 101. Mark a horizontal line across the other end of the
Dowel with a pencil, as shown.
PADDLE BLADES
IN LINE WITH
HORIZONTAL
LINE
 102. Using medium CA, glue the remaining two
paddle blades to the end of the Dowel, in line
with the pencil mark, as shown.
PADDLE BLADE
TEMPLATES
 103. Carefully cut the paddle blade templates from the
plan along the dotted lines.
 104. Using a glue stick, attach one template to each
end of the paddle.
ROUND EDGES
 105. Carefully trim and sand the paddle ends to the
template lines, as shown. Remove the templates and round the edges of the paddle
blades, as shown.
 106. Seal the completed paddle with two coats of
Testor's Gloss Clear Coat.
END VIEW
END VIEW
BEFORE
AFTER
19
DRILL HOLES AT A
SLIGHT ANGLE
Bungies
 107. Using the plan, mark the positions of the four bungie
fasteners behind the cockpit, as shown.
 108. Using a .025” drill bit and pin vise, drill a hole at each
fastener location.
Note: All deck fastener holes should be drilled
through the deck and the sheer clamp. To prevent
the holes from exiting the hull side, be sure to drill
the holes at a slight angle into the center of the hull,
as shown.
INSERT PINS
HALFWAY INTO
THE HOLES
 109. Insert a 1/2” (13) pin about half way into each hole,
as shown.
.025” DRILL
BIT
TIE OFF
START
 110. Cut an 18” (457) piece from the 4’ (1220) of black
elastic thread.
 111. Use the diagram to tie the bungie cord around the
pins. Tie the elastic thread off with a double knot
and trim the excess with nail clippers.
Note: Do not stretch the thread completely when
tying the knot.
TIE OFF
START
 112. Using the plan, mark the six holes for the forward
deck bungie. Using the remaining piece of elastic
thread, repeat the above process for the forward
deck bungie.
 113. Push the pins completely down.
.025” HOLES
Hatch Straps
 114. Using the plan, mark the positions of the six rear
hatch strap fasteners, as shown.
 115. Using a .025” drill bit, drill a hole at each fastener
location.
.025” HOLES
20
 116. Cut 10 pieces 2-1/4” (57) long from the 2’ (610)
of black ribbon.
Note: Cut one end of the ribbon at an angle
with nail clippers, as shown. The angle will
allow the ribbon to be “threaded” through the
buckles easier.
2-1/4”
 117. Carefully remove 5 buckles from the etched
brass sheet by flexing the stem back and forth
until they separate. Use a jeweler’s file to
remove any burrs.
CUT ONE END AT
AN ANGLE
 118. Insert the angled end of the ribbon into one of
the middle slots of the buckle, as shown.
2
 119. Pull about 1” (25) of the ribbon through and insert
the angled end through the corresponding outer
slot.
3
 120. Using another piece of ribbon, repeat the above
process for the other strap.
1
INSERT PIN
 121. Fold the last 3/32” (2.3) of the free end of the
ribbon over, as shown.
 122. Insert a 1/2” (13) pin through the middle of the
folded ribbon, as shown.
FOLD OVER THE
LAST 3/32”
INSERT PIN
 123. Insert the pin into the hole in the deck.
 124. Now add the remaining two straps to the deck.
21
 125. Carefully pull the excess strap material through the
buckle until the buckle is centered over the hatch.
Using nail clippers, trim the excess strap material
about an 1/8” (3.2) from the buckle, as shown.
 126. Repeat the above process for the remaining four
hatch straps/buckles.
TRIM STRAPS
1/8” FROM
BUCKLE
Acknowledgements
The following people contributed to the development of this kit and to the production of
this construction manual.
Model Designed & Engineered by: A.J. Broviak
Manual Written by: A.J. Broviak
Manual Illustrated & Assembled by: Andy Biggs
Special Thanks to Chesapeake Light Craft.
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Product Evaluation Card
What you tell us you like, and don’t like, determines what model kits we make and how we make them. We would
appreciate it if you would take a few minutes to answer the following questions about this kit, and also tell us a little
about your interests. When finished, simply fold this form in thirds and tape it (PLEASE DO NOT STAPLE) so that
our address faces out, and return this form to Midwest. Thank you for your time.
1. Kit Name
2. Kit Number
Chesapeake 17 Kayak
989
3. Where did you learn about this kit?
o Magazine Ads
o Hobby Shop
4. What influenced you the most to buy this kit?
o Box Art
o Recommendation of Others
o Type of Model
o Price
o Magazine Ads
o Other ________________
o Friend
o Other
5. Did you have any trouble using the plans?
o Yes
o No
If yes, please explain. Be specific.
o Wood Parts
14.
o Wood Parts
o Other
What did you like least about this kit?
o Plans
o Construction Manual
If other, please explain. Be specific.
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15. Are you satisfied with the finished model?
o Yes
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If no, please explain. Be specific.
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6. Did you have any difficulty understanding any of the written instructions on
the plans, or in the construction manual?
o Yes
o No
If yes, please explain. Be specific.
13. What did you like most about this kit?
o Plans
o Construction Manual
________________________________________________
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7. Did you have any difficulty understanding any of the illustrations in the
construction manual?
o Yes
o No
If yes, please explain. Be specific.
16. How does this kit compare to similar kits by other manufacturers?
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17. Is there anything else you would like to tell us about this kit?
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Tell Us About Yourself
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18. How long have you been building models?
8. Did you have any difficulty identifying any of the parts?
o Yes
o No
19. What magazines do you regularly read?
If yes, which parts?
________________________________________________
________________________________________________
9. If you answered yes to Question 8, which of the following answers best
describes the problem?
Could not identify part(s) from:
o Plans
o Written description in manual
o Isometric views in manual
o Other ________________
10. Were any of the kit parts:
o Missing
o Broken
o Wrong Size
o Wrong Shape
________________________________________________
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20. Are most of your models built from:
o Plans
o Kits
o Scratch built using your own plans
21. What other subjects would you like to see us add to our Success Series Boat kits line
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22. Kit was purchased from:
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11. If you checked off an item in Question 10, please list those part(s) and tell us
what was wrong with them.
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If yes, please explain.
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23
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