JEFF CARR-FPC - The Columbus Bonsai Society

JEFF CARR-FPC - The Columbus Bonsai Society

Columbus Bonsai Society
PO Box 1981
Columbus, OH 43216-1981
Questions to:
[email protected]
HTTP://Columbusbonsai.org
Regular Club meetings on
3rd Sunday of the month
Meetings Start at 2:00 pm
All are welcome to attend
CBS Board meets
1st Tuesday of the month
at 6:30 pm
JEFF CARR-FPC
SCHEDULE OF EVENTS 10/20/13
LOCATION: FRANKLIN PARK
CONSERVATORY
12:45 - 1:45 - Bonsai Bee - Members may bring in trees they have questions
about, Tom Holcomb and other experienced Club members will answer your
questions on care and styling. This will likely be the last of the year.
 2:00 - This month's program features a Spaan's Dwarf Pine styling by Jeff
Carr of Staselwood Bonsai Nursery.
Jeff also is encouraging Club members to bring in ONE of their pines for styling
and care advice. Late fall and winter is recommended for wiring pines.

BEFORE THE GUEST ARTIST BEGINS A BRIEF
MEETING WILL OCCUR TO BRING US ALL UP
TO DATE ON SOCIETY ACTIVITIES.
October 2013 Newsletter
President
Zack Clayton
“A Pinch of this….”
Tree Curator
Dan Binder
Director Emeritus
José Cueto
st
1 Vice President
Ken Schultz
2nd Vice President
Denny Sackett
1 year Director
Ben William
2 year Director
...We Pine for thee ….
Oh, wait that is the wrong kind of pine. However, lucky for us Jeff Carr
will be at the meeting this month to set us all straight about pines, their
styling, care and use of deadwood . So, if you have even a single question
about the specie Pinus, please plan to join us. What? You
know all you need to know about pines? Well join us
Inside this issue:
anyway, after all the more the merrier. So, see you on
2
Program Info
the 20th at Franklin Park Conservatory.
Mike Thornhill
3 year Director
Jack Smith
Past President
Mark Passerello
Treasurer
COLD WEATHER
6
Going to the fair
7
Bonsai=Perseverance
Rich Uhrick
Richard Gurevitz
Secretary
Sandy
Schoenfeld
Librarian
Beverlee Wilson
Web Master
Ed McCracken
PROGRAMS: PAST 8
AND FUTURE
PINES IN THE
MIDWEST
9
2014 SLATE OF
OFFICERS
12
Calendar of Events
16
Newsletter Editor
Richard Uhrick
Education
Tom Holcomb
See you the 20th at Franklin
Park Conservatory.
Columbus Bonsai Society PO Box 1981 Columbus OH 43216-1981
[email protected]
www.ColumbusBonsai.org
Columbus Bonsai is a proud member of the American Bonsai Society and Bonsai Clubs International.
1
3
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
OCTOBER 2013
This Month’s Program— PINE STYLING WITH JEFF CARR,
FRANKLIN PARK CONSERVATORY
T
his month's program features a Spaan's Dwarf Pine styling
by Jeff Carr of Staselwood Bonsai Nursery. Spaan's Dwarf
pines are used as specimen landscape trees in our climate
zone. They have a similar appearance to Japanese Black
Pine, but their needles are shorter. As their name implies their growth habit is as a large
shrub similar to Mugo Pine. Jeff Carr has been a vendor and conducted demonstrations at
prior CBS meetings and shows. Jeff has over twenty years of bonsai experience.
Jeff also is encouraging Club members to bring in ONE of their pines for styling and care
advice. Late fall and winter is recommended for wiring pines.
The Club inventory of pots and wire will be on-hand for purchase to fulfill your bonsai
needs. Ken Schultz will also be taking orders for CBS shirts. Shirts must be pre-paid, so
bring your checkbook.
The Columbus Bonsai Society
receives meeting space and other
support and assistance from Franklin
Park Conservatory and Oakland
Nurseries
DISCLAIMER
The Columbus Bonsai Society Newsletter, is
the intellectual property of the Columbus
Bonsai Society. All Rights Reserved. No part of
this publication may be reproduced in any form,
or by any means —electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording or otherwise —
without permission in writing from the Editor.
Rich Uhrick, Editor
[email protected]
UPCOMING PROGRAMS:
NOVEMBER: BONSAI DESIGN
SEE PAGE 16 FOR MORE
DATES AND LISTINGS
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
OCTOBER 2013
4
AND NOW A WORD FROM OUR PRESIDENT….
Random Thotz
I
have been reading a lot of blogs about the MABA show in Chicago. It
seems to be one of those “wish you were here” moments that really, would
have been nice to be there. Bjorn Bjorholm was a featured artist and in
addition to a styling demonstration on a needle juniper he did a walk through
critique of the trees in the show. The video of this is posted on YouTube here:
http://ofbonsai.org/galleries/videos/bjorn-bjorholm-exhibit-critique-mid-america-bonsai-show-2013-part-1
http://ofbonsai.org/galleries/videos/bjorn-bjorholm-exhibit-critique-mid-america-bonsai-show-2013-part-2
http://ofbonsai.org/galleries/videos/bjorn-bjorholm-exhibit-critique-mid-america-bonsai-show-2013-part-3
Actually that last part was for the September Newsletter that I missed the deadline for.
This month is starting to shape up like a real fall. Rain, cooler temperatures, crisp blue sky. It is
time to put on your fall fertilizer if you haven’t yet. I got some starter fertilizer for seeding lawns that is a
0-15-10 at a big box store (Menards) That is a good mix of elements. No nitrogen so there is no top flush
of growth, but plenty of what the roots need to develop and store energy for next spring. Remember, even
after top growth has stopped, the roots continue to grow down in the soil - especially evergreens.
If you have trees that have been stuck back in storage, check then to make sure they are still secure
in their pot, roots fully covered by soil and so forth. My big yellow dog has been arguing with the
neighbors dog behind me and has knocked over a couple of things in the process. I just finished topping
those pots up with fresh soil.
It is also time to consider wire for pines and junipers. For pines, after you do needle pulling of the
old needles, it is easy to get wire on without trapping and killing new needles, for junipers you will have a
season where there will be little branch growth with a reduced chance of wire cutting in. Every so often in
old books you will see an admonition against leaving wire on during the winter. Some nonsense about
freeze damage at the wire. Think about it, is the wire going to get any colder than the air temperature that
completely surrounds the tree? Now if the wire has cut in and is stressing the bark, that might be
different. But, wire put on now is not going to cut in before winter.
And, for tropicals that are coming indoors, get your miticide treatment done. You don’t want that fresh
when you bring them inside. Some treatments need a second application about 2 weeks after the
first. Check the label instructions. The chemical you are looking for is Imicloprid and is systemic. This is
a neonicotinoid pesticide so it may have an adverse effect on bees. Don't use this on flowering plants.
Zack
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
OCTOBER 2013
5
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
OCTOBER 2013
6
ARE YOU READY FOR COLD WEATHER?
T
he past few nights have raised our awareness that as
curators of our own bonsai collections we need to
begin making preparations to protect our trees from
cold weather here in central Ohio. Depending on
what trees you are keeping as bonsai, you have several
different areas of preparation.
Trees that grow naturally in central Ohio or Zone 5
are hardy. These are most of our pines, spruce, larch,
junipers, boxwood and others. Some azaleas are, so are some
elms and some Japanese maples varieties. Semi-hardy trees
are those that grow in Zone 7 – (Atlanta) – trees include some
Japanese maples, Chinese elms, azaleas and some say –
trident maples. Sub Tropicals include Crepe Myrtle,
gardenia, Rosemary, Pomegranate and some Serrisa varieties.
Tropicals include; Ficus, jade, Fukien Tea, Jabocaba and
jasmine to name a few of the more popular bonsai genus.
Each category calls for a different care plan during the fall
and winter.
All trees have a period of dormancy, even tropicals.
This period is needed to allow the tree to rest and store
energy. When the dormancy period is over the tree pushes
new growth. For hardy trees in our yard this is spring.
Tropical trees go through a period where they stop growing
but they retain their leaves, most of them. There is a
dormancy article on our website. Entering dormancy requires
a gradual cooling, accompanied by shortening days.
Hardy Trees- breathe easy for now as these plants
won’t need to be stored until there is a hard freeze. I leave
mine on their benches until there is freezing weather, then
place them on the ground, more to protect the pots than
anything else. The area where you plan to store them should
be ready to receive them. Some people with only a few trees
bury their pots in the ground to protect the root ball. Some
remove their trees from the pot to prevent winter breakage.
The ground acts to protect the roots from freeze thaw. I
worry about drainage, especially with our clayey soils. So I
use mulch – up to the top of the pots – sometimes up to the
first branch. To prevent mouse damage, sprinkle mothballs
between the pots. Makes sure your pots drain to prevent root
rot and pot breakage due to freezing The trees also need to
be protected from direct sunlight and wind. Burlap, or a
protected area near your house might work. I fence mine to
prevent rabbit damage. I treat my Tridents as hardy – but
take extra precautions to make sure their rootball is well
mulched. You may not want to take this risk. It is possible to
overwinter trees in a refrigerator kept between 35-40F.
Evergreen photosynthesize above 40 so I put poo-balls on
them when I store them. Since I began doing this, they seem
to benefit with a stronger spring start. (Do not leave your
trees up on their benches and do not place them on a concrete
surface for winter storage.) Direct sunlight on a frozen tree
can split the bark. Wind can freeze dry a plant.
If there isn’t any rainfall or snow for a week or
more, check. You may need to water, if the soil has thawed.
Snow cover insulates and melting snow waters your trees, so
don’t worry. In fact I’ve had more problems when there isn’t
snow.
When the temperature starts rising above 50 watch
for bud break. Spring can be more dangerous to your
bonsai’s health if they break dormancy and then a late frost
arrives. This is why you need a winter storage area where
direct sunlight isn’t likely to warm it and the mulch keeps the
roots at a constant low temperature. When the temperatures
remain above 40F it would be OK to remove them from
winter storage
Semi Hardy Trees are trickier. They cannot take
temperatures much below freezing. If they do you may lose
the finer branches or the whole plant. These trees would best
be stored in a cold garage, an unattached building, a cold
frame or an unheated greenhouse. Their ideal winter
temperature range is between 35 to 40. You might also use a
protected area very close to your foundation; however, it’s
almost guaranteed that you will need to water. Another
problem will be that these plants are likely to break dormancy
earlier than your hardy plants. Make sure you protect the
rootball from freezing as some plants (Trident maples) roots
will burst when they freeze. If you only have a few bonsai,
you might try moving them from an outdoor location into
your garage for the few days that it is predicted to stay below
freezing.
If the unheated area you choose to store these trees
rises above 50 degrees it may break dormancy and then you’ll
have care problems caring for it until the outdoor
temperatures are consistently above 40 and its safe for them.
Until then keep them cold.
Sub Tropical and Tropical Winter Care: The
difference is that Sub-tropicals may be left out longer as they
will tolerate cooler weather and may actually benefit from
going fully dormant. However, they will not tolerate
freezing. Real Tropicals start to suffer when the temperature
fall below 50F. Since most of us don’t have a heated
greenhouse, these plants usually end up indoors. Subtropicals will tolerate winter temperatures in the 45-60f range.
Tropicals appreciate warmer temperatures. Both need light. I
find four 40-watt bulbs within 6” of the top of the plants best.
Use a combination of cool white and full spectrum bulbs. The
air needs to move, so add a fan. Humidity is also needed, a
tray of gravel helps. Don’t let the pot sit in water. If you
only have a few tropicals, you might have a sunny window
that will work for you.
Watch out for
pests. They seem to
materialize out of thin
air. You must be
prepared to act quickly
or they will cause
severe problems.
You’ll be glad when
the temperatures are
consistently above 50
again so that you can
return your bonsai to
the outdoors.
Ken Schultz
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
OCTOBER 2013
7
GOING TO THE FAIR….
I
spent some time at the Delaware County Fair,
home of the renowned Little Brown Jug harness
race, staffing my employer’s booth in the merchant’s hall. Other booth space was devoted to
several social service agencies, both the major political
parties, capitalists selling such commodities as spices
and herbs; sharks tooth jewelry and designer tote bags.
I had the chance to meet an actual Gideon-the bibles
and New Testaments you are encouraged to steal from
hotel and motel drawers are put there by real people,
who are very kind and generous individuals. The Delaware County Master Gardeners, who were giving away
seed packets and inviting the fair going public to have
their gardening questions answered, occupied one of
the other booths.
Well I had a gardening question that I thought I
knew the answer to and wanted an expert opinion.
Every year about the end of July my crab apple starts to
looks straggly and pathetic. A few weeks of high temperatures along with the high humidity seem to do a
number on it, and the leaves turn yellow and get black
spots, then fall off. A few twigs usually die back and
the darn thing looks so sickly it is almost embarrassing.
I was sure most of it was cultural-the heat stress coupled with the stress of a missed watering or two make
the plant a tad weak, and the black spot fungus takes
over. I wanted to confirm the fungus theory, so asked
the expert-or the master gardener.
I described the problem-crabapple, looks bad
every July or August, yellow leaves, black spots, early
defoliation. The master gardener scratched his head for
a moment and sighed. He did know much about crab
apples, per se, he said, though he liked them in the
landscape. He had a line of them on his property as
windbreak and barrier, which was a role they filled well
since they have “thorns this big” he showed me a fearsome width between thumb and first finger.
Thorns? On a crabapple tree? I have not seen a
thorny crab apple, though I have since found out that
some wild crabs do bear thorns. Thorns are rare on the
hybrid type crabapples that occupy the residential landscape, but they are very common on another popular
landscape tree: the hawthorn. Some hawthorn cultivars
have long wicked looking thorns and fruits that are
every bit as large as a large crabapple.
Could this master gardener perhaps be confused or not know the difference between two common
trees? Horticulture is a big field, if you will pardon the
pun, so a base of knowledge that did not cover every
single plant perhaps could be forgiven. But in a few
moments, this master gardener would make another,
more major misstep that would prove-to readers of this
newsletter at least-both shocking and tragic.
He began his diagnosis. How old was the tree
he asked? About twenty years or so, I told him. Is it
otherwise healthy-does it bloom every year, and set
fruit? Oh yes I said, blooms reliably every year, but I
do not let it set fruit.
The master gardener looked at me as if I had
just burped in his face.
Why not he queried, with genuine interest,
since he obviously could not think of a reason to take
this affront to the nature of the tree. I answered him “So
that the tree uses its energy in leafy growth and saves
its strength”. He clucked his tongue and shook his head
as if I had just told him that babies are brought by the
stork. He explained, almost disguising his pitying attitude, that though that seemed like a logical approach,
the plant was really set up to do both things, and that I
was making it unhappy not letting it do what it was
supposed to do. He was a little taken aback that I would
thwart the tree’s natural inclination to fruit, and in the
back of his head was another thought “How does this
guy keep the tree from fruiting?”. He asked about that,
and I told him, I plucked off each fruit when the
blooms faded.
His eyes goggled. With a sweep of his hands,
he once again gave an indication of size, and wondered
if this tree was not 15 or 20 feet tall. Oh no, I assured
him, about two and a half. More eye goggling. And its
twenty years old? Where is it growing, where about in
your yard, he asked me.
It is not in the yard, I assured him, it is in a pot.
Honestly, if I had told him I liked the way his mother
looked in a two-piece swimsuit, this person could not
have looked more shocked and sad. He had never heard
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
OCTOBER 2013
8
MIKE THORNHILL
WOWS THEM WITH
WIRING:
AS AN EXCELLENT END TO AN
EXCELLENT PICNIC
JEFF CARR RETURNS TO
COLUMBUS [SEE PAGE 3]
M
r. Carr has over 12 years experience in the
planning, growing, creating, and finishing of
bonsai. Starting his career on the southeast
Georgia coast, Jeff discovered several natural
styles like the windswept, Live Oak, and the flat top. He was
guided early on by Savannah artist Luigi Trappini.
After moving back home to the Central Ohio area a
completely new outlook on natural bonsai styles emerged.
Using nature as his guide as well as taking classes from
several different masters (Craig Coussins, Marco Invernizzi),
he combined these lessons and his appreciation of the world
around him making his final perception of Bonsai, different
from the norm.
JOSÉ CUETO RETURNS IN NOVEMBER
J
osé R. Cueto is a registered Architect by profession,
and has been involved in bonsai since 1973.He is a
former President of the Columbus Bonsai Society and
a past member of the Board of Directors of the
American Bonsai Society. He has been lecturing,
conducting demonstrations and offering bonsai workshops
throughout the Midwest since 1982.He has also taught
noncredit bonsai courses at several Universities and Art
Centers during this time. He has articles and photographs of
his trees published in various bonsai magazines. In addition
to local, state and regional shows, his bonsai have been
exhibited at the Columbus Museum of Art. Finally,
photographs of his trees have been displayed at the Annual
International Bonsai and Suiseki Exhibition in Japan.
9
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
OCTOBERR 2013
Pine Bonsai in the Midwest USA
by Douglas K. Hawley MD, Cincinnati, Ohio—Reprinted by permission
I
t is with good reason that the Japanese have
sometimes referred to pine as the king of
bonsai. They respond very well to training
techniques, and adapt well to bonsai culture
(so well, in fact, that they may live longer as bonsai
than they do in the wild!). Their appearance is
majestic. And the ancient pines in nature have
served as models for the development of the classic
rules and stylistic tendencies in bonsai in general.
Specifically, pines have served as the style
models for bonsai, with downward sloping lower
branches alternating from outside curves with welldefined foliage planes eventually culminating in a
broad rounded apex. Uh-oh, I can already see some
of you bonsai naturalists with fumes coming out of
your ears, thinking man, that's the worst thing that
ever happened to tropicals and deciduous; I'd rather
get a root canal than see another pine-styled maple!
My only response is that if you prefer lollipop or
shrub-in-a-pot style, there are plenty of models for
this in most of our Midwestern back yards. But
when I really want to see a tree that looks like an
ancient humanesque caricature-like piece of art,
give me a pine!
Pines are evergreen needle conifers of the
genus Pinus. There are over 100 species of Pinus,
essentially all from the Northern Hemisphere.
Although some will grow in subtropical or warm
climates, none are truly tropical; thus, as bonsai,
they are all outdoor plants. Although all will survive
in bonsai culture, some are much more suitable than
others due to needle length, response to pruning/
pinching, internode length and growth rate. Almost
all pines can survive throughout most of the
Midwest area, but some may require pampering.
My discussion will include both the classic
Japanese pines as well as the pines of the western
world most suitable for bonsai; but all will be pines
that we can easily keep alive as bonsai in the
Midwest.
GROWTH PATTERNS
First, a few basics are in order, with no
intent to insult all of you experts. All pines grow in
the same pattern. New buds turn into candles, which
then open up into shoots covered with needles.
These shoots are arranged in whorls, i.e. one to a
dozen or more shoots arising all from the same
point. The tip of each shoot the puts out more buds
which develop into candles for the next year's
whorls of growth. Some pines will backbud if
pruned into the last one or two year's branches, but
not always reliably. They will never break back if
cut back into old wood beyond where needles are
present, but rather that branch will simply die.
The needles themselves grow in groups
called fascicles. Most pines have fascicles of two
needles, three needles or five needles. Those which
have five-needle fascicles are often referred to as
five needle pines, white pines, or soft pines. Those
with two or three needles per fascicle are sometimes
generally referred to as hard pines or black pines.
Most pines display considerable apical
dominance, i.e. the tendency for the portion of the
tree at the top or the end to have the most vigorous
growth. This is important to realize in bonsai
culture, as much of what we try to attempt to do is
to equalize the strength in all parts of the tree. Thus,
we constantly have to be more brutal to the upper
and outer portions of our trees.
TYPES OF PINES
Pinus thunbergiana - Japanese Black Pine - Kuro
matsu. A two-needle pine. Hardy zones 5-7(8).
Needles naturally around 5" but reduce dramatically
in bonsai culture. Excellent response (perhaps the
best and most predictable of any pine) to classic
Japanese pruning and needle reduction techniques.
Fissured bark. Back buds modestly well. Needs
moderate winter protection - medium sized bonsai
will survive 0-10 degrees F if temperatures are
steady and there is complete protection from wind
and sun. Will do well in warmer areas too.
Pinus thunbergiana var corticosa - Cork bark Black
pine - Nishiki matsu. (2 needle) Cork bark varieties,
actually a large number of different variants. The
ones with thick white candles are much more
vigorous than ones with reddish teardrop shaped
candles. In Japan these varieties are classified
according to the pattern of the cork bark, with those
developing angled wings being more desirable.
Some varieties, notably Kyokko and Fuji can be
rooted with cuttings, unlike any other pines. These
pines are somewhat more difficult, being fragile,
less hardy, and more susceptible to fungal diseases
than regular black pine, however can be grown very
successfully in the Midwest. They require very
significant winter protection e.g. cold frame or
unheated garage kept in low to mid thirties or
higher.
Pinus parviflora (pentaphylla) - Japanese white
pine, Japanese five-needle pine - Goya matsu. (5
needle) - small attractive needles, probably the
smallest and most attractive needles of any fiveneedle pine. Dense but somewhat slow growth.
More vigorous when grafted onto black pine roots,
and most specimens available in this country are
grafts imported from Japan. A few cork or rough
bark varieties exist but are rare. All varieties require
(Continued on page 10)
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
(Continued from page 9)
some winter protection but prefer colder climates
overall.
Pinus syvestris - Scotts pine. (2 needle) - popular in
USA and especially in the Midwest. Trunk is
attractive and thickens rapidly. Needles are much
smaller than black pine. However it does not
reliably respond to candle pruning with new growth,
and new shoots grow horizontally instead of
upright, giving it a somewhat unkempt appearance.
Tolerates cold in general, more so than Japanese
black pine, but there are varieties developed to grow
best in each of zones 3-6.
Pinus rigida - Pitch Pine - Amerika sanyosho. (3
needle) - An underused pine. Native to our area.
Hardy zones 4-7, three needle pine. Buds back
extensively, even on old wood. Needles not quite as
dense as Japanese black pine, but responds
exceptionally well to needle reduction techniques
and can be induced to put out several or more
generations of new growth in a season.
Pinus virginiana - Scrub pine. (2 needle) Native to
our area. Two needle pine with characteristics
otherwise very similar to pitch pine. Trunk thickens
more slowly. Responds extraordinarily well to
pinching and needle reduction techniques. Slightly
warmer natural habitat that Pitch pine so requires
moderate winter protection.
Pinus ponderosa - Ponderosa pine. (3 needle)
Many fabulous ancient twisted trunk collected
specimens have made this a popular pine in USA.
Grows fairly well in this area but very prone to
borers, which may cause death of tree without
warning. Buds back with actual cutting needles in
half, but does not respond well to candle removal,
and candles are almost two short to pinch. Thus, it is
difficult to control the balance of vigor and weak
branches tend to become weaker. Large trees require
little or no winter protection.
Pinus mugo - Mugho pine. (2 needle) hardy to
zone 2 which grows very well here. Has natural
bush like growth, so it has very little apical
dominance. Older trees tend to have long arms and
younger trees don't thicken up quickly, so really
good mugo bonsai are rare. Responds poorly to
candle removal. Needs almost no winter protection.
Pinus densiflora - Japanese red pine - Aka
matsu. (2 needle) Similar to Japanese black pine but
with weaker growth, looser arrangement of needles,
and less ability to tolerate vigorous pruning
techniques. Appearance considered more feminine
or delicate. Requires winter protection.
Pinus banksiana - Jack pine. (2 needle) Native to
the northernmost parts of our area, but will grow
well as bonsai in zones 2-6. Very short needles,
somewhat more widely spaced than Scotts pine but
similar. Response to Japanese black pine techniques
is not reliable. Needs only wind/sun protection in
winter.
Pinus strobus - Eastern white pine. (5 needle)
Native to our area, and extensively planted as
OCTOBER 2013
10
landscape in Midwest. Hardy zone 2-7, and the most
shade tolerant pine. Unfortunately, this is one of the
least satisfying pines for bonsai. Needles do not
reduce, it does not like to be pruned at all, and it
retains a juvenile appearance to the bark until it is
literally ancient. It is sensitive to overwatering but
not tolerant of under potting. Key branches may die
without reason, spoiling the design. Good luck.
Many other pines can be grown as bonsai
in this area including loblolly pine, sand pine,
lacebark pine, Austrian limber pine, Mexican white
pine, Swiss stone pine, etc etc. All these have some
different features. Paradoxically, bristlecone pine,
twisted and century-old in nature, does poorly as
bonsai.
PRUNING, PINCHING AND DE-CANDLING
There is a major difference in the response
to pruning and pinching between the five needle
pines and the others. They bud back less easily,
tolerate candle removal poorly, and do not reduce
their needle size as readily. Thus, among five needle
pines, types which already have dense growth
patterns short internodal spaces and short needle
length, such as Pinus parviflora (Japanese five
needle pine) are much preferred over those with the
opposite characteristics, such as Pinus strobus
(Eastern White Pine).
The primary method of pinching fiveneedle pine is to reduce the candles to 1/2 to 1/3 of
their initial length in mid spring, just before the
needles begin to open. This should be done over a
two or three week period, starting with the strong
(upper) candles, and ending with the weak (lowest
and inside) candles. Note that this sequence is the
opposite as with two/three needle pines, described
below.
Among the two and three needle pines,
there is a fairly wide variation in the response to
needle reduction and pruning techniques. With
some, such as Pinus thunbergiana (Japanese Black
Pine) Pinus rigida (Pitch pine), and Pinus virginiana
(Scrub pine), marked needle reduction and multiple
generations of stimulated new growth can occur in a
single season in response to pruning and pinching.
In contrast, others, such as Pinus ponderosa, Pinus
nigra (Austrian Black pine) and Pinus leucodermis
(Bosnian pine) simply stop their growth until next
season in response to pinching.
With all two and three needle pines, candle
work is usually done over a two to three week
period. Unlike five needle pines, start with the
lowest/weakest branches, and end with the upper/
strongest. This gives the weaker candles a head
start. The exception is Mugho, which has no apical
dominance and therefore can be done all at once.
First, candles may be pinched by 1/2 to 1/3,
just before the needles open. Typically this will be
in April or May. If you also plan to de-candle, don't
pinch back the weakest at all.
(Continued on page 11)
11
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
(Continued from page 10)
De-candling is exactly what it sounds like:
Remove the entire new candle; all of them! Right
down to the point of the previous years growth. Do
not leave even a stub from this year's candle. This
should be done when the needles have completely
opened, from mid June to early July, and should be
done sequentially, weakest to strongest as noted
above. This may be done with the following pines:
Japanese black (corkbark only every other year);
Japanese red; pitch; Virginia (scrub); sand; and
vigorous lacebarks and loblollies. You can try it on
all the other two and three needle pines safely, but
in most cases they just put out buds, which do not
open into candles until the following year.
The result of successful de-candling is that
the pine then puts out a larger number of brand new
candles at the cut tips. All of which will have more
compact growth and shorter needles. These should
be reduced in number to two per tip once they are
large enough to accomplish this. Occasionally,
these new candles will be long enough that the
strongest need to be cut back. Pines should be
fertilized heavily the autumn and spring before
decandling.
Note that the length of the needles can
actually be controlled to some extent by the timing
of de-candling. Early de-candling (e.g. mid-June)
yields stronger, longer needles; later (e.g. early
July) yields shorter needles. Watch out with doing
it too late, though. I've had Japanese black pines
with no needle longer than inch. They look great
through the fall and winter, but put out dangerously
weak growth the following season, precluding decandling for two years.
None of these methods necessarily applies
to Ponderosa, nor does anyone really know what to
do with them!
Incidentally, I have read articles
suggesting that withholding water and fertilizer
should control needle length. This is a poor method,
especially if you are still trying to develop your
pine.
BRANCH PRUNING AND WIRING
Most of the major styling manipulations
are best done in the winter. Major branch removal
should always be done during dormancy. Also
create jinn and Shari. Wiring should be carried out
any time between mid-September and March.
Wiring in the later spring causes slippage of
cambium (not good!), and Spring/Summer branch
removal can cause sap leakage for months!
Precede wiring with needle pruning, i.e.
removing last year's and some of this year's
needles. This opens up the interior to light and
circulation, as well as markedly improving the
appearance and ease of detail wiring. By leaving a
somewhat greater number of needles on low/weak
branches, you can also contribute to your goal of
equalizing the strength of the branches.
OCTOBERR 2013
Detail wiring brings out the finest
appearance in pines. Use copper wire if you are
comfortable with it. Carry the wiring out to each
shoot.
Some masters suggest pointing the tips
straight outward, others suggest turning them all
upward. Who's right? Actually, either can be done,
depending on your goals. Turning them upward
improves the immediate appearance and actually
improves the strength of these tips (auxin
production is increased by geotropism). On the
other hand, wiring them straight out promotes more
back budding, improves the vigor of small weak
inner growth (both by decreasing the auxin
production in the stronger end tips), and places the
branches in proper position for next spring's new
candles to arise in the proper foliage plane. You can
actually mix the two, wiring tips from weak
branches pointing upward and strong branches
straight outward.
GENERAL CARE
Pines like well-drained soil, and prefer
being too dry than too wet. Feed them in the spring
and fall, unless you have a finished tree (is there
really any such thing?), in which case you should
hold back on Spring feeding a bit as long as you are
not planning a major candle removing. Excessive
Spring feeding and watering will lengthen needles
but this is irrelevant if you plan to de-candle. Pines
should always be kept in full sun. They prefer a
slightly acid soil, so adding Iron or feeding with an
acid fertilizer will be beneficial.
Repotting should be done every other year
in very young pines, and about every five years in
mature specimens. Be sure all field soil is removed.
This can be done immediately with young black
pines, but spread over at least two repotting’s with
others. Miccorhiza should be added or saved and
spread back into the lower soil layers.
Pines are relatively pest free. The main
pest culprits are pine needle scale (treat with winter
oil and with a general insecticide in late spring and
August) and sawfly (spot treat with any insecticide
or soap in late Apr/May). New growth turning
yellow usually indicates diplodia, a fungal disease.
Last years needles turning yellow in bands or in
entirety usually indicates needle cast, another
fungal disease. Daconil is effective for both if
applied early. Borers can be fatal to mostly
collected trees; if you see holes in the trunk apply
lindane into the holes and pray.
Pines are extremely rewarding bonsai,
literally magic! By the way, I have to admit
enjoying undulating but rising branches in
deciduous, and canopies on tropicals!
12
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
OCTOBER 2013
SLATE OF OFFICERS FOR 2014 ANNOUNCED
ELECT
MIKE
THORNHILL
PRESIDENT
President
Mike Thornhill
Director Emeritus
José Cueto
1stVice President
Ken Schultz
2ndVice President
Denny Sackett
3year Director
Ben William
1 year Director
*** Not Assigned ***
2 year Director
Jack Smith
Past President
Zack Clayton
Treasurer
Richard Gurevitz
Secretary
Sandy Schoenfeld
Librarian
Beverlee Wilson
Tree Curator
Jeff Carr
Web Master
Ed McCracken
Newsletter Editor
Richard Uhrick
Education
Tom Holcomb
13
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
(FAIR….Continued from page 7)
of such a thing, did not see how the plant had survived
this long, and urged me to do the right thing and plant it
out in the yard. The roots have got to be smothered and
that plant is just not happy. He assured me again that he
had never encountered such a thing as a crab apple in a
pot.
Here is when I played one card. I am surprised, I
said, that you have never encountered anyone who
raised bonsai. His brow furrowed. He obviously had not,
but was not about to admit it. “Well bonsai is little baby
pines or spruce” his hands again described a size range,
about the cubic area a yogurt container would occupy”
that are clipped up real tight, but I ‘have never heard of a
crabapple used that way”.
Now was when I just wanted to fade away. I had
not set out to trip up this man, but had managed to tie his
figurative shoelaces together and send him down two
flights of stairs. For his part, he acted as if I were a purple thumbed half-wit who had by sheer luck kept alive a
tree that by all rights should be dead. I could have done
some on the spot education, evangelized for the art form
as it where, but I did not have the heart. Rather than
make this guy feel like a chump, I backed away and let
him think I was. He explained the difference between
systemic and spray on fungicide (which he urged me not
to choose myself, “but ask the guy at the store, who
knows what he’s talking about. He also recommends the
full haz-mat suit-goggles, coveralls, and respirator). I
thanked him, slipped out the side entrance, and like a
Magi avoiding Herod, made my way back to my booth
by a different route.
I had been wearing a Tony Mihalic solver bonsai pin on my jacket lapel…had he not seen it. Had he
really so little exposure to bonsai? The answers to those
and other questions seem obvious. This fact was proven
to me later that day in another building on the fair
OCTOBER 2013
grounds. In the Arts & Crafts building, part of the competition was horticultural, and among such entries as
best geranium (scented or non-scented) and best single
rose was a bonsai category. Ribbons for first, second and
third place bedecked the three entries, all of which displayed lovely green color and fresh growth. Horticultural, these specimens were indeed ribbon worthy. From
a design standpoint, let us say that the entrant’s grasp of
such bonsai principles as a clear apex, defined branch
structure, striving for a natural looking effect and other
guidelines to good form was not as complete as could be
wished. Definitely not good examples to copy from.
So what do we as bonsai growers take away
from my experiences at the fair? First, though it is
tempting to anthropomorphize, plants do not feel frustrated or ‘unhappy’. A plant thriving or failing to thrive
does not induce in the plant any emotional high or low,
no matter what effect it may have on the plant growers
emotions. Second, though bonsai has become much
more widely known and familiar to both plant people
and the general public, the spread of that knowledge is
by no means universal-or complete. Third, consider that
no matter how well informed we ourselves might be,
especially compared to someone who is not a “club
member” or “old hand” or ”long time bonsai grower”,
we can always learn something new, or come to a better
understanding of facts and principles we already have
absorbed. John Naka, respected and revered as perhaps
the greatest American bonsai practitioner thus far, always humbly admitted that he had much to learn. Centuries ago, the 87-year-old Michelangelo expressed the
same thing when he said “Ancora imparo." [I am still
learning.]
Those are examples well worth copying.
Mark Passerrello
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
OCTOER 2013
PLEASE GIVE A
BIG WELCOME
TO OUR NEW
MEMBERS
W. RICHARD CANTER
BOB CRAWFORD
ELAINE POTTER
Bonsai on the Zen Terrace
CBS members who volunteer to assist in the care of the bonsai
helped on the selection of the ten bonsai currently on display at
Franklin Park Conservatory and Botanical Gardens. During the
exhibition, Bruce Munro: Light at Franklin Park Conservatory
the bonsai may be viewed on the Conservatory's Zen
Terrace. Tropicals in the Conservatory's collection are being
cared for in the on-site production greenhouse. In late
November, the hardy bonsai will be placed into "winter storage
"returning to public display in the spring when the weather
breaks. As the warm season progresses, trees will be rotated on
display so that a variety of bonsai may be enjoyed by the
Conservatory visitors.
FROM THE CBS CARE GUIDE
October - Mid Autumn - 65/43

Trees will be using much less water now that the foliage is going dormant. Do not water unless
needed.

Try not to prune deciduous in the fall as it may force new growth that will not survive winter. Wait
until the tree is fully dormant.

Prepare your winter storage area now, before winter sets in.
14
15
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
OCT 20BER13
From the Circulation Desk of the C.B.S. Library
The CBS Library Materials List is now available in spreadsheet format on our CBS website's
Library Tab.
Users can Sort, Filter and Search the list. There are a few little buttons at the bottom of the
embedded spreadsheet that allow you to download the spreadsheet, or open a full page version in a
new window. Users can then email the librarian at [email protected] to request materials.
Another new feature is a column indicating if the Book has been reviewed and the information to
access the review. For instance “NL Feb. 2011 (Schultz)” would indicate that the review is in the
Newsletter, Feb 2011 issue, and Ken Schultz authored the review.
We hope this will make the collection more available to the membership. Let us know your
thoughts.
We have completed the Accession Process for all the Books in the Club’s Collection. All have a
Card and Pocket for ease of Check Out.
Beverlee Wilson, Librarian
John Young, Asst. Librarian
[email protected]
Renewal Memberships may be paid for more than one year at a time.
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
OCTOBER 2013
Bonsai Here and Beyond the Outer belt
Unless otherwise noted, The Columbus Bonsai Society meets the third Sunday of every month at 2:00 pm .
Board Meetings are the first Tuesday of the month at 6:30 pm. The board meetings are open to members.
13 OCT
18 OCT
20 OCT
23 OCT
5 NOV
6 NOV
7 NOV
21 NOV
17 NOV
BONSAI BASH—HIDDEN LAKE GARDENS, TIPTON, MI
BONSAI SOC. OF GRTR. CINCINNATI—WHITE ELEPHANT SALE—GARDEN CTR.
JIN AND SHARI AND PINE CARE WITH JEFF CARR—FPC
PROGRAMMING AND EDUCATION COMMITTEE 6:30 PM —FPC
BOARD MEETING 6:30 PM —FPC
SANDUSKY BONSAI—OFFICER ELECTIONS
AKRON CANTON BS—PINES, NEEDLING/ BUD SELECTION—ART CENTER
BONSAI SOC. OF GRTR. CINCINNATI—MARK FIELDS—KROHN CONS.
BONSAI DESIGN WITH JOSÉ— FPC
4 DEC
SANDUSKY BONSAI—CHRISTMAS PARTY/ DINNER
DEC
HOLIDAY DINNER—TBD
FPC= FRANKLIN PARK CONSERVATORY
OAKLAND= OAKLAND NURSERY, COLUMBUS LOCATION