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Lost in the lanes of
Lucknow
“A vision of palaces, minars, domes
azure and golden cupolas, colonnades,
long facades of fair perspective –there is
a city more vast than Paris as it seems,
and more brilliant, lying before us. Not
Rome, not Athens, Not Constantinople,
not any city I have ever seen appears to
me as striking and beautiful as this: and
the more I gaze the more its beauties
grow upon me.”
hese words, by Sir William Russell,
visiting correspondent of the
London Times, in 1858 about
Lucknow, have led many a sojourner
to the City of Nawabs, as it is fondly called,
traveling overnight from the Indian capital
Delhi to see for themselves its architectural
grandeur and fascinating craft and cultural
legacy that is often referred to as the City of
Nawabs, the Golden City of the East,
Shiraz-i-Hind and the Constantinople of
India. A traveler to Lucknow today is still
fascinated by the timeless elegance of this
city which even today, as malls and
multiplexes sear its skyline, struggles to
keep its tryst with destiny with its lofty
Imambaras (Islamic halls of prayer) and
remnants of palaces that speak volume of its
glorious history.
Time stands still on the banks of the
Gomti as the river weaves its serpentine
path, meandering lazily past a city that
seems to bridge the past and the future in
one giant leap. And you wonder which world
you wish to be a part of tonight…
T
Gomti River
Lucknow, City of the Nawabs continues to attract visitors even today. From heritage dinners and
bustling bazaars to leave you dumbstruck, designer chikan embroidery to traditional
perfumes--itrs- the city has something for everyone coming its way...as Shirin Abbas reports from
Lucknow.
Chhota Imambara
court, which came gathered a reputation of
being a major centre of excellence in art,
culture, craft and cuisine.
History
The city occupies a unique place in
history, with its own dynasty of Nawabs as
against the Mughals, who ruled from Delhi.
When Mughal Emperor Akbar divided the
whole of India into 12 provinces, Lucknow
was chosen by the Subedar of Avadh, a
region in today’s Uttar Pradesh, Sheikh
Abdur Rahim, a nobleman of Bijnore, as the
capital of Avadh. After the independence,
the city was the natural choice for the
capital of Uttar Pradesh, which regrouped
Avadh and some other princely states.
Thereafter the region began to grow as a
commercial centre and was ruled by
descendants of Shaikh Rehman, known as
the Sheikhzadas. In 1732, Saadat Ali Khan
challenged the might of the Sheikhzadas
and laid the foundations of a fine oriental
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The Avadh
The British entered the kingdom of
Avadh (Oudh as they called it) in the reign
of the third Nawab of Avadh, Shuja-ud
Daulah. Several Nawabs of this dynasty
were renowned builders and devoted much
attention to contributing to the
architectural legacy of the city. The one
name that looms above all is that of Nawab
Asaf-ud Daula, credited with the building of
the grand Asafi Imambara and the Rumi
Gate. Other rulers like Saadat Ali Khan,
Ghazi-ud Din Haider and Nasir –ud din
Haider and Muhammad Ali Shah added to
this legacy. From the time of Shuja-ud
Daula in 1753-1775, the kingdom of Avadh
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gradually ceded bit and portions of its
empire to the British in return for protection
until finally the entire Kingdom of Avadh
was annexed to the British empire in 1856,
after the forced abdication of the last
Nawab, Wajid Ali Shah.
The annexation resulted in an outcry
from the Nawab’s subjects. The British had
failed to understand the Nawab’s strong and
emotional connect with his subjects and
misinterpreted his patronage of the arts,
dance and culture as nothing but common
debauchery. Forced to abdicate and exiled to
Matiaburj near present day Kolkata, the
Nawab’s ouster sowed the seeds of the first
Battle of Indian Independence, also known
as the Mutiny, in 1857. It was here in
Lucknow where the British were forced to
seek refuge in the Residency – a large
complex that served as the residence of the
British Resident Commissioner, the highest
Residency Mutiny
ranking British officer in Avadh, and remain
holed inside for a full 87 days, battling the
natives outside, before relief arrived in the
form of General Colin Campbell and his
soldiers in November.
The Residency, preserved in that
condition, even today bears the pockmarks
of that battle between the Indians and the
British and is home to the several graves of
British and European soldiers who laid
down their lives in the defense of the
Residency. A War Museum built at the site,
is well worth a visit, if only to recreate
images of that historic struggle.
Architecture
Lucknow is a haven for the lovers of
architecture, especially those that seek to
establish the indigenous regional architectural strains, as against the more-often seen
Mughal architecture that is visible in
buildings in Delhi and Agra. The excellent
stucco work of Avadh is still visible in
several buildings— the better known Bada
(Big) Asafi Imambara boasts of the largest
vaulted hall in the world. Measuring 162 ft
in length, 53 ft in breadth and 50 ft in height,
the enormous roof, unsupported by pillars
or beams has 16 hollow walls that serve to
lighten the weight of the structure and cool
the interiors. The Whispering Gallery and
grandiose labyrinth (Bhulbhulaiya) serve as
its other attractions.
The Husainabad or Chhota (Small)
Imambara lies to the west of the Asafi
Imambara and contains the tomb of the
builder, king Muhammad Ali Shah and his
mother. With its exquisite chandeliers,
elegant stucco calligraphy and a silver
pulpit complete with a golden dome it
presents a distinct contrast to the grander
but more austere Bada Imambara. Also
noteworthy among the city’s many
monuments are the Shahnajaf Imambara
built in 1817 and the city’s leit motif—the
Rumi gate.
Built in 1784 by Nawab Asaf-ud-daula, it
is an example of the fine architectural style
of the Avadh. Also known as the Turkish
Charbagh Railway station
Gate since it is supposed to be identical in
design to a similar gateway in ancient
Constantinople. Rising 20 m, the uppermost
part of Rumi Darwaza comprises of an
octagonal Chatri (Umbrella) that can be
accessed by a staircase. The word “Rumi” is
derived from the modern day Rome that
used to be Istanbul. The Rumi Darwaza was
inspired by a similar gateway in Istanbul.
On top of the Rumi Darwaza was kept a
huge lantern that would light up the
French major general Lord Claude Martin as
his supposed residence, the building was
half complete when Martin passed away on
September 13, 1800. He left the building and
estates to the cause of education and thus
began La Martiniere College Lucknow, the
third branch of an illustrious institution that
exists also in Kolkata and Lyon in France.
The Residency is also a perfect example of
colonial settlement in the mid 19th century.
There are also several buildings of modern
architecture worth am mention here: The
Charbagh Railway Station, the Chhatrapati
Shahuji Maharaj Medical University
(CSMMU) (earlier known as the King
George’s medical College), the Husainabad
Clock tower with its principal wheel that, at
a diameter of 2 ft, beats Westminster clock,
the Lucknow University and the Vidhan
Sabha (Council House).
Legacy of craft,
cuisine and culture
Rummi Darwaza
La Martiniere College
Bada Imambara
Bhool Bhulaiya
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structure at night making it look absolutely
fabulous. Little jets of water would rush out
of the sides of the arch from beautifully
carved flower buds thus making it look like
a gateway to Paradise. The beautifully
carved flowers and designs speak volumes
about the unique architectural style and eye
for detail. Rubbing shoulders with these
Avadhi and Islamic buildings are symbols of
the finest European architecture like the La
Martiniere College built by an influential
With so much history in the air, one is
wont to feel then that this is all that the city
of Lucknow has to offer. But that is not so.
Not just the haunt of scholars but
connoisseurs and gourmet, what draws
tourists to Lucknow’s doors is not just it
history or architectural heritage but also its
rich legacy of cuisine, craft and culture.
The city’s repute has served it well,
elevating it to unparalleled heights in the
itinerary of the discerning traveler keen to
sample the real India as separated from the
cosmetic one served on a platter at five star
restaurants.
In contemporary Lucknow it is these
three C’s –craft, cuisine and culture – that
continue to draw tourists. The urge to
sample the melt-in-the-mouth kebabs, see
intricate floral patterns weaved in shadow
work in rapid stitches by awarded
craftspersons and sample the courtly
culture for yourself, is a desire that brings
groups of foreign tourists to Lucknow’s
doors. Shunning the modern city to venture
into its serpentine lanes, here they discover
a city suspended in time, continuing
traditions that step back several
generations to introduce you to a culture
and cuisine that is comparable to the finest
royal kitchens in the world.
Serving up the famed paheli dinners of
Avadh (trick dinners), the scion of the
Mahmudabad royal family, Amir Naqi
Khan, draws gourmet to his door even
today. His family mansion, Iqbal Manzil,
placed centrally, is host to visiting foreign
scribes and tour groups, royalty and
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cognoscenti alike. For 150 euros per person,
Khan throws lavish dinners for these in true
royal style complete with liveried guards
and sometimes accompanied by Sufi
qawwals or Khan’s favourite traditional
Indian music singer Zarina Begum, giving
you an idea of a typical Avadhi mehfil that
was attended by the Who’s Who of society.
The trick dinners, a specialty of the Khan
clan, has guests sampling savouries and
finding them to be dessert and vice versa.
Khan’s special khansama (traditional chef)
Zaheer, arranges a spread using a charcoal
chulha (Stove) and prepares mouthwatering dishes from recipes handed down orally
over generations to him. “In Avadh you can
sample dishes according to the seasons—
each tastes completely different and
requires complete mastery of the art of
cooking in the tradition style over a charcoal
stove or simmered on a bed of hot coals in
ash to get a special smoked flavour,” Khan
reveals. “Even desserts are seasonal in this
region.” Khan is not the only one using his
royal legacy to advantage. There are others
like him who use their public school
education and links. Nawab Jafar Mir
Abdullah, who claims a lineage to the royal
family of Avadh, is a known figure on the
social circuit, organizing heritage dinners
with live music for foreign groups and
educating them about Avadh history and
culture. Abdullah is a connoisseur of the
crafts and a collector of antiques and
artifacts. He uses his position well, showing
off his vast collection to his guests and
often managing to sell a few pieces too.
From antique chandeliers, dinner plates,
manuscripts and small baubles, he collects
everything that could be of interest to
visiting travelers as collectors’ items. Rare
costumes from Nawabi times find pride of
place in his collection.
Besides cuisine, Lucknow is also famous
for its chikan craft, an art whose fame has
traveled far and wide. Giving a modern twist
to this traditional art, designer Asma
Husain has made a name for herself with
her design school where she teaches
fashion. Her skill however lies in putting
traditional chikankari—shadow work
embroidery so popular in this region-- to
contemporary usage and has also come out
with a bikini line using the same. “Very few
people are aware that what is today known
as Belgian or Italian lace had its origins in
this region. Also the bias cut that many
attribute to the west was created in Avadh
and was a favourite in courtly attire, known
as the aureb cut,” she says. Not just
chikankari but royal zardozi—opulent
embroidery using gold and silver threads
and sequins—and kaamdani have also
been honed to perfection in this city.
Chikan work
Nawab Jafar Mir Abdullah
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Nakkhas Market
Perfume shop
While France may hold prime position
where it comes to perfumes, it could take a
leaf from modern attars (perfumers) of this
region that are a big hit with tourists eager
to take back a whiff of Avadh with them.
These indigenous perfumers use a
non-alcohol base and organic ingredients
to come out with traditional itr and
aromatic essences. From perfumes to room
fresheners, herbal mood lamps and joss
sticks—they have everything affordably
priced. Sugandhco in Janpath market,
Hazratganj, is the most favoured
destination of all those seeking such perfect
souvenirs from a perfect trip as also are
traditional attars like Azam Ali Alam Ali and
others.
The city became known as a centre for
Urdu literature and poetry and courtly
presence and diction. Many poets were born
and lived here. The “mushaira” an event of
reading poetry formed the heart of
Lucknow’s nightlife. the “mushaira’s” went
on through the wee hours of the night.
Under the rule of Nawabs, Urdu flourished
and turned into one of the most refined
languages. Hindu and Muslim poets like
Brij Narayan Chakbast, Khwaja Haidar Ali
Atish, Amir Meenai,Mirza Hadi Ruswa,
Nasikh, Daya Shankar Kaul Nasim,
Musahafi, Insha, Safi Lakhnavi, and the
great Meer Taqi Meer took Urdu poetry to
dizzy heights and established the Lakhnavi
form of the language.
The city has also been a major centre of
music and dance, notably the Kathak form
of dance which flourished under the
patronage of the Nawabs. The nawabs were
generous patrons of the arts such as kathak,
thumri, khayal, dadra, qawwalis and
ghazals. The decline of Mughal power in
Delhi saw the influx of artists who flocked
to Lucknow to seek noble patronage. Nawab
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Asaf-ud-Daula had a fierce desi re to make
his court surpass the magnificence of the
Nizam of Hyderabad. Even today, the
Lucknow Gharana draws a lot of respect
amongst the circles of classical music and
dance in India, with its ghazals acquiring
international repute.The city is also home to
the modern India’s Ghazal queen Begum
Akhtar and noted film maker Muzzafar Ali.
Due to its unique mix of royalty, music,
dance, literature and cuisine, Lucknow has
also been frequently used as a backdrop by
the Indian film industry for several major
films including Satyajit Ray’s Shatranj ke
Khilari and Muzzafar Ali’s Umrao Jaan.
Bazaars of Avadh
A visit to Lucknow is incomplete
without sampling a round of its bazaars. As
against the global culture of malls and
multiplexes, the bazaars of Lucknow are as
famed as those of Cairo and Istanbul, with
street food and cheap gifts on the offer. Take
the lanes of Chowk in the Old City for
example. Where in the world would you get
a Phoolwali gali (Flower lane), Chawal Wali
Gali (Rice lane) and Kanghey wali gali
(Comb lane).
It was here that the famed mujrewalis
(courtesans) of Lucknow once had their
kothas (boudoirs) bustling with patrons and
brimming over with the sound of music. The
courtesans have gone but the streets of the
Chowk bazaar today reverberate with the
sound of the warq maker beating silver into
microthin sheets between deerskin leaves to
decorate traditional sweetmeat preparations, Raheem’s kulchey nehari (a rich beef
gravy served with a baked flour roundel) and
of course, Lucknow’s famous Tundey
Kebabs—the original still selling at a
throwaway price with parathas or sheermals
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– traditional buttered roundels or its richer
version prepared with eggs and flour and
coloured a bright saffron.
The Nakkhas Market every Sunday
proves a big draw where you can even buy
turkeys, roosters, duck, chicks, rabbits,
exotic budgerigars and cockatoos, rabbits,
guinea pigs, fowls and almost everything
else! The Nishatganj area is famed for its
Buddha bazaar market whilst on Saturday
and Thursday the less upmarket Sadar and
Aminabad areas light up for their weekly
bazaar on similar lines. A little distance
from Aminabad, the Gadbadjhala Market is
the perfect haunt for every young miss,
selling bangles, baubles and much else at
cheap prices. Here you will find imitation
jewellery aping designs from the latest
Bollywood film or tinkling bangles in
whatever colour you may desire.
A visitor to Lucknow is often left
charmed by the hospitality and warmth of
the people who go out of their way to make
the travelers comfortable. Little wonder
then that even the state tourism department
cannot fail to cash in one its charm in its
welcome note—Muskuraiye, aap Lucknow
mein hain! (Smile, you are in Lucknow). ■
Bangle Shop
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