The Independent Guide to the Languedoc

Coastal highlights | 48 Hours in Montpellier | Wines | Gastronomy
Past master
Historic breaks in
the South of France
Produced in association with:
traveller
SATURDAY 6 DECEMBER 2008 THE INDEPENDENT
II LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON
LIFE ON
THE EDGE
From ancient ports and modern resorts to bohemian
backwaters, the Languedoc-Roussillon coastline offers
something for everyone, as Harriet O’Brien discovers
T
he wide expanse of sand
of is phenomenal. You feel at
once humbled
yet inspired by
the vastness, the sense of
space, the wide-open outlook.
Espiguettebeach is stunningly broad and long, extending
a good 12km along the far
north-eastern shores of
Languedoc-Roussillon. It is a
quiet, wild place, backed only
by a lighthouse and by long
reaches of sand dunes topped
with tangles of grasses.
Whatever the weather,
whatever the season, you’ll
find wonderfully empty expanses here. The crowds
that descend at the height
of summer dissipate the further you walk from the car
park (as does their clothing
– with increasingly naked
sun worshippers in the far
areas). In the mild winter
and spring there’s ample
scope to move away from the
clusters of kite-surfers,
happy groups of children
building sandcastles and
small parties of fishermen
with rods out along the edge
of the shore.
There are 40 or so other
beaches along the 200km
coast of Languedoc-Roussillon. It is a richly varied shoreline offering ancient ports,
modern resort towns, bustling
fishing harbours, calm coves,
bird-filled lagoons and more.
To reach Espiguette beach itselfyou pass three very differenttowns. The nearest is Port
Camargue, a pleasingly modern resort built in 1969 and
centred around a large marina where sleek white yachts
and large speedboats are
moored. It is just a few kilometres from the old fishing port
of Le Grau-du-Roi, where
boats bring in catches of sardines and sea bream and
where a palm-planted promenade fringes a great sweep
of beach and offers host of
restaurants. Best of all, though,
isthetown of Aigues-Mortes,
a picture-book medieval
walled settlement a 10-minute
drive further north.
This intriguing town was
purpose-built as a major port
in the mid-13th century. But
about 100 years after its construction, huge silt deposits
changed the coastal configuration and Aigues-Mortes
found itself several kilometres from the sea. Solidly and
grandly devised though it was,
it became something of a
backwater, its insignificance
allowing it to remain unde-
COVER PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES
TRAVELLER’S GUIDE
Aigues-Mortes
Ramparts and Tour Constance
(00 33 4 66 53 73 00) open
daily 10am-1pm and 2-4.30pm,
adults ¤6.50 (£5.40). Boat trips
around the Camargue marshes
are run by Les Péniches Isles de
Stel (00 33 4 66 53 60 70).
Adults ¤9 (£7.50).
Sète
Audio guides of the town cost
¤5/£4 and are available from the
Tourist Office, 60 Grand Rue
Mario Roustan (00 33 4 67 74 71
71). Guided tours of the fish
auctions are arranged by the
Tourist Office (¤5/£4, in
French only).
Espace Georges Brassens,
67 Blvd Camille Blanc
(00 33 4 67 53 32 77)
open daily 10am-noon and
2-6pm (closed on Monday);
adults ¤5 (£4).
Musée Paul Valéry, Rue
François Desnoyer, (00 33 4 67
46 20 98) open Wed-Mon
10am-noon and 2-6pm, adults
¤4 (£3.30).
Leucate
Info on windsurfing and kitesurfing
schools from the
Tourist Office,
11370 Port Leucate
(00 33 4 68 40 91
31).
Collioure
Musée d’Art
Moderne,
Villa Pams,
Route de Port
Vendres (00 33
veloped. Hence it is near perfectly preserved today. It is a
fine place to amble around,
its all-encompassing fortifications containing pretty
streets of row houses with
pastel-painted shutters. On
the sunny November day of
my visit, Place Saint Louis –
the main square – was filled
with diners at outdoor tables
from the surrounding restaurants. It exuded a charming,
relaxed atmosphere.
Themain tourist attraction
of Aigues-Mortes is a walk
high up along the ramparts,
for which entrance includes
access to the town’s principal
fortress, Tour de Constance,
that has also served variouslyasaprison and a lighthouse.
The views are terrific, taking
in the outlying Rhone-Sète
Canal and mountains of salt
from saltworks on the edge of
Aigues-Mortes. Stretching
beyond are the salt marshes
of the Petite Camargue. Part
oftheRhone delta, this remote
area is home to pink flamingo (among a vast number of
other birds) as well as wild
bull and the distinctive, white
Camargue horse. Boats
moored in the canal just be-
yond Aigues-Mortes’ main
gate, Porte Saint Antoine, offer
guided tours around this nature-rich watery world.
In complete contrast to the
dreamy, other-worldly quality of Aigues-Mortes, you are
swept into action at Sète further south along the coast.
This vibrant fishing town occupies a prime position between the sea and the Étang
de Thau, one of LanguedocRoussillon’s largest lagoons,
which is famous for its oyster production. Laid out
along a series of canals, the
town centre is an engaging
place dominated by fishing
vessels – state-of-the-art
tuna fishing boats looking
like gin palaces and smaller
4 68 82 10 19), open Wednescraft for more local, less deday– Monday 10am-noon and
manding trips.
2-6pm; adults ¤6 (£5).
Head to the Vieux Port on
thesouth-eastern edge of town
Banyuls
toseetheir catches being sortLe Cellier des Templiers,
ed in the afternoon before they
Route du Mas Reig, Banyuls are sold at the adjacent auc(00 33 4 68 98 36 92)
tion house (for which guided
tasting and sales Monday- tours are arranged through
Saturday, 10am-1pm and
thetourist office). Then make
3-6.30pm; visits Monday- for the top of Mont St Clair beFriday 2.30-6pm.
hindthetown. From this high
vantage point, you stretch your
More information
eyes across great panoramas:
www.sunfrance.com
over the sea in one direction
and across the oyster farms
of the lagoon in another.
Yetthere’s more to Sète than
fishing.This is a vibrant place
with its own culture. More
than 40 per cent of the residents are descendants of a
wave of Neopolitan refugees
who arrived here in the 1850s.
The Italian connection is evident in local dishes such as la
macaronade, pasta with pork
and tomatoes. Sète is also
renowned for the strange sport
of water jousting in which opponents vie with each other
on platforms extending from
boats rowed by teams of eight.
It also offers two small museums dedicated to national heroes who were born in Sète:
Paul Valéry, the poet and
philosopher, and Georges
Brassens, the iconic songwriter. And it is a party town,
hosting a number of festivals
during the year. August is
whenSèteisparticularly lively,with a major festival of world
music closely followed by the
town carnival, La Saint Louis.
Further south, beyond Narbonne, you reach the windiest part of the coast. Yet far
from detracting from the
pleasures of the seaside, the
conditions around the
THE INDEPENDENT SATURDAY 6 DECEMBER 2008
LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON III
The coast of living: the Tour de
Constance in Aigues-Mortes;
Espiguette beach (far left) ALAMY
Leucate peninsula have become a major draw. This area
is now in effect the windsport
capital of France, rivalled in
Europe only by Tarifa on the
southern tip of Spain.
The greater part of the action takes place off the long,
golden-sand stretch of La
Franqui beach where at any
time of the year kitesurfers,
windsurfers and kitebuggies
harness the wind. The most
spectacular feats take place
when the fierce north-west
Tramontagne wind is blowing, with optimum conditions
occurring in April, which is
when the Mondial du Vent
kitesurfing and windsurfing
championships are held.
The Leucate peninsula is
very much a world unto itself.
From the pretty old village of
Leucate itself to the modern
resort of Port Leucate, several separate settlements
fringe the Leucate lagoon,
whereoysters are farmed, and
egrets, herons pink flamingo
canbeseen, and where novice
sailors and windsurfers can
learn the ropes in safety before setting out in the sea beyond. With numerous restaurants, sailmakers, surf shops,
campsites and other accom-
modation options, there’s a
distinctive, appealingly relaxed atmosphere here.
But the most dramatic part
of the Languedoc-Roussillon
coast is at its southern extremity. Beyond the long, wide
beach of Argelès sur Mer lies
the rugged landscape of the
Côte Vermeille, so-called because of its intense colours.
It is an area of geographical
theatre, with craggy, vineclad mountains reaching
down into the sea. Set in a
particularly picturesque cove
is the ancient town of Collioure, its harbour dominated by a 12th-century fortress.
To have any hope of parking in this postcard-pretty
place, get here in the morning. Then spend at least half
a day enjoying Collioure’s
views and artistic associations. The town famously became a centre of the Fauve
artists in the early 20th century, Derain, Matisse and
Braque among them, and
today you can follow a walking trail around Collioure with
reproductions of the artists’
works placed at viewpoints
where they were painted. The
town’s modern art museum
offers a small permanent col-
Mende
LOZERE
Florac
F R A N C E
G A R D Uzès
L A NGU EDO CRO U SSI L LO N
Nîmes
Montpellier
H E R A U LT
Sète
Béziers
Carcassonne
Limoux
AUDE
Narbonne
Perpignan
PYRE NEES
- O RI E N TAL ES
Golfe du Lion
Mediterranean Sea
0
S P A I N
lection and changing exhibitions of local artists.
For a final treat, move on to
nearby Banyuls, the road
snaking around the coast and
presenting magnificent views
over vine-sculpted hills. At
thisseaside town make for the
Cellier des Templiers, a large
co-operative of local wine
growers. Here you can enjoy
40
MILES
free guided tours and tastings
of the area’s wines, produced
at some of the world’s most
ancient – and spectacularly
sited – vineyards.
For more information and the
chance to win a trip for two to
Languedoc-Roussillon, go to
www.sunfrance.com (Terms
and conditions apply.)
Roll up for the
magical history tour
Languedoc-Roussillon
wears its ancient past with
pride. Drive along the A9
highway and in parts
you’re on the road laid
down by the Romans in
about 118BC. The 257km
Via Domitia was the first
Roman road to be built in
Gaul, and the area around
is peppered with evidence
of Roman life. On the 8km
stretch between Beaucaire
and Nîmes there are still
milestones in place. Further south are the ruins of
the settlement of Ambrussum with the remains of a
Roman bridge spanning
the River Vidourle.
Meanwhile, Narbonne,
capital of the Roman
province Gallia Narbonensis, offers a great archaeological museum (00 33 4
68 90 30 54; set in the
Archbishop’s Palace and
open Tues-Sun 10am-noon
and 2-5pm; adults ¤5.20/
£4.30). Here you gaze at
an absorbing Roman collection of stone carvings,
paintings and more.
But the most spectacular Roman sites are concentrated in the Nîmes
area. The city itself holds
two jaw-dropping Classical constructions. Right in
the heart of Nîmes, dominating the square that
was once the forum, is the
small and perfectly formed
temple known as the Maison Carrée (open daily
10am-1pm and 2pm-5pm;
adults ¤4.50/£3.75).
With its elegant pediment
and Corinthian columns, it
is beautifully preserved –
and will remain so thanks
to conservation work now
taking place. Only priests
were once allowed entry
but today tourists can take
a look inside – where they
see a 3D film about Roman
life, its dialogue spoken in
Latin, with French and English subtitles. Equally impressive and considerably
larger is the city’s Roman
amphitheatre south west
of the temple (except for
special events, open daily
9.30am-5pm; adults
¤7.70/£6.50 including a
lively audio guide).
It was built in the first
century AD, and is now
probably the most intact
Roman arena in the world.
A huge oval with enormous walls, it is a masterpiece of engineering and
proportion. The city’s
great shows were held
here: gladiator and animal
fights. Today the arena is
still used for concerts. For
more information, see
arenes-nimes.com.
Nîmes became a rich
Roman town when it acquired a guaranteed supply of water. About 20km
north-east of the city is the
magnificent aqueduct built
for that purpose between
40 and 60AD. Spanning
275m of the Gardon
Gorge, the Pont du Gard
(pictured above) is a
marvel of construction.
There is no charge to
visit the site (the best
views are from the right
bank) but you’ll need to
pay for the car park and
you may well want to
learn how it was built
(and much more) at the
innovative museum
and cinema in the visitor
centre on the left bank
(open daily – except
Monday mornings –
9.30am-5.30pm; adults
¤6/£5 for the museum and
¤4/£3.30 for the cinema).
SATURDAY 6 DECEMBER 2008 THE INDEPENDENT
IV LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON
SCENIC AND
SURPRISING
Whether you’re travelling by train, bike or even donkey, the diverse routes through
this spectacular region will provide some unforgettable journeys. By Simon Calder
T
he Romans did
plenty
for
LanguedocRoussillon: not
merely miraculous surviving
structures such as the Pont du
Gard, but by creating the
tracks that many still follow –
both in the street plans of the
hearts of Nîmes, Montpellier
and Perpignan, and in the ancientsuperhighways that still
carve across the region. But
over the centuries since then,
many more thoroughfares
have imposed themselves over
thelandscapes, fromoldmule
paths to 21st-century highspeedrail tracks. And some of
the Languedoc-Roussillon
trails are perfect for exploring
ontwo legs, two wheels, or four
legs–or, while sitting down and
takinginsomesuperb scenery
and engineering.
THE AGE OF THE
LITTLE YELLOW TRAIN
“Heritage” railways are
splendidcelebrations of engineering and inspiration, but
alltoomanygo from nowhere
tonowhere. In sharp contrast,
the amazing narrow-gauge
journey from Perpignan to Latour de Carol transports you
from the Mediterranean to the
high Pyrenees, providing access to Andorra, Catalan Spain
and the rest of the SNCF network, serving the upper reaches of the Ariège and, should
you wish, the city of Toulouse.
But the means to whichever
end you choose comprise the
most satisfying part.
Even the short journey
aboard a normal train from
Perpignan to Villefranche-VernetlesBainsisatreat. You leave
theRomancityanditsrailway
station designated by Salvador
Dalí as “the centre of the
world”, and quickly leave behind the Paris-to-Barcelona
mainlinetostartgently climbing the valley of the Tet.
Soon the scenes and
scents of the Mediterranean
Making tracks: the Petit Train Jaune, which travels through the Pyrenees along the narrow-gauge Perpignan to Latour de Carol rail route ALAMY
start to dwindle, as river, railway and road start to compress into the same narrow,
deep corridor.
Given the scenic intensity,
the station where the regular SNCF network ends is
surprisingly utilitarian; nevertheless Villefranche itself
is an excellent base for exploration. The core of the town
is wrapped in stout walls, and
allows access to some dramatic and challenging hiking
based in the nearby spa village of Vernet les Bains, which
shares the station name. Most
people, though, step across
from the train to the platform
where their yellow transportation awaits.
The Petit Train Jaune –
bright yellow, with added
splashes of red, to honour the
colours of Catalonia – comes
in two varieties. The smart,
modern two-car train looks
ready for 21st-century business, with big picture windows giving passengers the
second-best view of the line
to Latour de Carol. The best
view is the preserve of the
travellers who board the sturdy open wagon that gives a
startling 360-degree journey
through some of France’s
most spectacular scenery.
The presence in a siding of
a smart red-and-yellow snowplough gives some hint of the
journey to come – and also
explains why the open carriages are a summer-only
phenomenon. But however
you tackle this line, the memory will stay with you.
Last year, the railway celebrated its 80th anniversary;
yet in just over a year, at the
start of 2010, the centenary celebration for commencement
of construction will begin. It
tookfrom 1910 to 1927 to build,
an average of less than 4km a
year for the whole 62.5km project.Whenyou see how the line
clings to the impossibly steep
sideoftheupper Tet valley, you
willbeamazed that they completed it at all: much of the time
itoccupies a narrow ledge, and
twice it defiantly crosses the
gorge on bridges that seem impossibly frail compared with
themighty mountains through
which the line steers its precarious course.
Things begin to flatten out
as you approach Mont Louis.
How’s the weather? Sunny,
most likely – at least more likely than elsewhere in France.
This area, the Cerdagne, was
chosen as the location for the
Four Solaire, or solar oven,
because the climate charts
showed the sun favoured it.
To see the array of reflectors
on a hillside funnelling the
rays to a central – and very
hot – point makes you imagine that you have stumbled
into a sci-fi movie.
This feeling intensifies as
the train proceeds across the
wild and bleak plateau, a mile
above sea level. A geopolitical quirk means you thread
between Spain and Spain: the
exclave of Llivia is separated
from the rest of the Republic
by a land corridor, through
which the line slices.
Latour de Carol has the feel
of a frontier station, and a
certain celebrity among
railway enthusiasts for being
the place where three differentgauges meet: the standard
gauge of SNCF leading north
to Toulouse, the broad Iberian gauge going south to
Barcelona and the narrow
gauge on which you have just
THE INDEPENDENT SATURDAY 6 DECEMBER 2008
LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON V
Road worthy: cycling beside the Canal du Midi (left); one of the many castles that act as beacons to walkers; tourists can also hire a horse or donkey (below) ALAMY; GETTY IMAGES
arrived. A place of possibili- TWO WHEELS GOOD...
Seuil de Naurouze is one of
ties, indeed.
those special locations in
A WALK THROUGH
which Languedoc-Roussillon
THE CENTURIES
seems to excel. Here, on the
A hand-painted sign that border with Midi-Pyrenees,
points up a hillside near St two springs rise. One flows
Martin du Canigou sums up west, the other east – which
the appeal of Languedoc- is where the wise cyclist will
Roussillon for the walker: Voie head. Partly this is because
pedestre, it reads – literally the prevailing wind is in your
“pedestrian way”, but in prac- favour, but mainly because
tice heaven for hikers. And, as you are about to embark on
you ascend the Sentier des one of the great French bike
Cathares – the pathway of the rides. Languedoc-Roussillon
Cathars – to the hilltop castle offers the opposite of the Tour
at Montségur, you may well be de France; the journey beside
thankful for divine guidance. the Canal du Midi is all about
This fascinating walk is indulgence, not endurance.
just one of many long-disGliding, not riding, is how
tance footpaths through you feel as you drift eastwards
Languedoc-Roussillon. It with the sun smiling from
takes you through medieval above you on the right – the
villages, across undulating same direction as the Pyremeadows and along narrow nees. Soon the city of Carcasgorges. You find yourself fol- sonne rises from the plain, and
lowing in the footsteps of the provides an excellent excuse
Cathar sect who created their to leave the saddle and explore.
own strange realm of perfect
You continue beside the sinpurity in Languedoc before gular work of
they were wiped out in the engineering
14th century. Their ruined that still procastles now act as beacons vides a vital link
for walkers, who in turn help between the seas,
to sustain small communi- while providing
ties by spending on meals and endless fun for holaccommodation.
idaymakers on narThe same symbiotic rela- row boats and
tionship prevails a short way cabin cruisers.
south. The finest walk in The cyclist has
France – the GR10 pedestri- the advantage of
an superhighway connecting covering the
the Mediterranean with the ground more
Atlantic – begins on the beach quickly, making
at Banyuls, close to the Span- the Mediterish border, and quickly climbs ranean an easy tarinto the hills where the sun get within a few days
gently roasts pine needles and of gentle pedalling.
fragrant herbs. Symbolically,
If, however, you
the path crosses the Via Domi- subscribe to the “no
tia that the Romans created pain, no gain” school of
to connect the region with the cycling, Languedocmother city; but as you ascend Roussillon has plenty
to the spine of the Pyrenees, to challenge you; beyou feel splendidly disconnect- sides the parts of the
ed with urban life. I have yet Pyrenees that so often
to conquer the emblematic sort out the winners
mountain of Canigou itself; from the losers in Le
maybe next summer.
Tour, I recommend
the Cévennes National Park;
in wonderful isolation, given
the proximity of numerous
towns and cities, you can test
your legs as hard as you like
on steep climbs or gentle descents – knowing that good
country cuisine and a comfortable bed awaits at the end
of each day.
PARK LIFE
...FOUR LEGS BETTER
A pioneering outdoorsman,
Robert Louis Stevenson famously travelled through what
is now the national park and
wrote about it in Travels with
a Donkey in the Cévennes. The
ecossais veritable is celebrated
today with his very own longdistance footpath, the GR70.
But riders can cover the
ground in the way he intended by hiring a horse or donkey.
At La ferme de Vimbouches
(causses-cervennes.com/
fereme-vimbouches), for example, the British owners can
organise anything from a
night’s accommodation to a week’s
riding holiday, exploring a different
part of the national
park each day. Guests
are also encouraged to get involved in running
the
farm, which
makes for a
fascinating
family holiday in a part
of France that
is still unknown
by (too) many
British travellers.
For more information and the
chance to win a
trip for two to
LanguedocRoussillon, go to
www.sunfrance.
com (Terms and
conditions apply.)
Green peace: part of the Stevenson Trail through Cévennes National Park AXIOM
Parc de la Narbonnaise
This varied area is a mixture of
coastal landscape, lagoons and
mountains, gentle terrain and
wild nature. The mild coastal
climate makes it a destination
to visit at any time of year, and
it is especially popular with
hikers: there are nearly 250
miles of trails to explore,
some long-distance, others
manageable in an afternoon.
Accommodation is available
throughout the park in
gîtes, chambres d’hôtes
and campsites.
The main information centre is at
the Domaine de Montplaisir in
Narbonne (00 33 4 68 42 23
70). It opens 8.30am-12.30pm
and 2-6pm Monday-Friday.
Mediterranean Garden
Roquebrun’s Mediterranean
garden has been designed
to take advantage of the
mild climate on this dramatic
south-facing slope. It
contains a striking variety
of plants, more than 4,000
in total, planted to make
maximum impact with
their dramatic shapes and
vivid colours.
Rue de la Tour, Roquebrun
(00 33 4 67 89 55 29). The
garden opens 9am-noon and
1.30-5.30pm mid-February-June
and September-late November;
9am-7pm daily in July and
August. Admission costs
¤4.50 (£3.75).
Cévennes National Park
An area that includes some of
the most dramatic landscapes
in the country, the Cévennes
Park straddles a number of different regions. Its highest point
is Mont Lozère, a forbidding
peak that is often shrouded
in mist or covered in snow;
cross-country skiing is popular
here in winter. One of the great
hiking routes of France, the
GR70, better-known as the
Stevenson Trail, cuts through
the region, ending up in the
picturesque village of
Saint-Jean-du-Gard.
The main information centre
for the park is in Florac (6bis
place du Palais; 00 334 66 49
53 02). It opens 9.30am12.30pm and 1.30-5.30pm
Monday-Friday; 9am-6.30pm
daily in July and August, and
at weekends from EasterSeptember.
L’Aubrac
This high plateau, covering
parts of the three departements – the Lozère, Aveyron
and the Cantal – is an appealing mix of small villages, lakes
and rivers, and the region is
steeped in rural traditions.
One of the best centres is
Nasbinals, a cross-country
ski centre in winter, and in
summer the base for plenty
of outdoor activities, including
mountain- and quad-biking as
well as horse-riding.
Nasbinals tourist office: 00 33
4 66 32 55 73
SATURDAY 6 DECEMBER 2008 THE INDEPENDENT
VIII LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON
Three hundred days of sunshine every year? No
Cathy Packe explores the shops, museums and r
B o u le
Rue d
u Cor
ré du
Mont
20
leva
Bou
ité
Roi
21
Boule vard Vialle ton
22
Place Royale
de Peyrou
Rue Cla pie s
19
17
Palais de
Justice
Place de la
Canourgue
Ru
13
Bou
e
Ru
Ru
Ro l
ed
el
aM
u
edr
rd L
e rc
i
leva
Sa
int
i
Gu
lh
Bo
Ru
ul
ev
eR
ar
ou
ch
tit
er
-S
ai
nt
-J
de
ea
n
G
rc e
Ma
Rue
et
au
lB
ro u
e
10
Pe
u
G A M B E T TA
mb
e
Je
Ga
du
au
d
s
eP
Ru
em
Ru
Ru
Halles
Castellane
St-Roch
lin
ur
Place d
Marché
Aux Fleu
e
Ba
Place des
rr
Rue Foch
al
e r Martyrs de
i e la Résistance
Place
OLD
du Petit
11
Scel
TOWN
Rue du F
a u b o u r g d u Co u r re a u
0
els
St-Pierre
Cathedral
6
Co
B
l’Univers
A Ml
Medical
Faculty
Ru e Pit ot
5
eur
ence
Rue
rd
Jardin
des
Plantes
Pa s t
Rue d
e la P
r o v id
Hen
ri I
V
16
WINDOW SHOPPING
Shoppers are spoilt for choice
in Montpellier. The best of the
food markets is Les Halles (11)
in the Place Castellane; and
the Polygone (12) is a pleasant modern shopping mall.
But don’t miss Rue St-Guilhem (13), where
va rd
Rue de
N
es
m
au
nt J
Direct flights to Montpellier
are operated by Ryanair (0871
246 0000; ryanair.com) from
StanstedonMondays and Fridays, and Easyjet (0905 821
0905;easyJet.com) which flies
from Gatwick on Fridays,
Sundays and Mondays. Montpellier Méditerranée airport
is 7km east of the city; a shuttle bus makes the journey to
the terminus near the Place
de l’Europe (2) in 15 minutes.
Tickets cost €5 (£4.15) and for
anextra €0.50 (£0.40) you can
transfer to the tram; both lines
stop at Place de l’Europe. It is
alsopossible to travel to Montpellier by train from the UK,
taking a Eurostar service
to Paris (08705 186186;
eurostar.com), and then transferring to the Gare de Lyon for
the direct TGV service (0870
084 1410; internationalrail.com)
TAKE A HIKE
to the city.
Explore the Écusson, starting
GET YOUR BEARINGS
at the Tour de la Babote (7),
The heart of the city is the one of the last remaining secÉcusson quarter, so-called tions of the city’s medieval rambecause of its shape, like an parts. Nearby is the city’s main
escutcheon, originally cre- square, the Place de la Comeated by the old city walls. die (1), known locally as
This pleasant, mainly pedes- “l’Oeuf” – the Egg – for its oval
trianised, area is where vis- shape, and dominated by
itors spend much of their the Opera House. The city
time. The Tourist Office (3) has many attractive 17this on the edge of the Écus- century mansions, the
son, at 30 allée Jean de Lat- oldest of which is the
tre de Tassigny (00 33 4 67 Hôtel des Trésoriers
60 60 60); it opens 9am- de France (8)
6.30pm Monday to Friday, at 7 Rue Jacques
10am-6pm on Saturdays, Coeur (00 33
10am-1pm and 2-5pm on 4
67
52
Sundays. This is the place to 93 03), now
purchase a Montpellier home to the
CITY card, which costs €20 M u s e (£16.70) for 48 hours and of- um of
fers free entry or discounts Langueto the main d o c .
Take
the op-
Montp
Sai
The four-star Pullman Hotel
(4), at 1 Rue des Pertuisanes
(00 33 4 67 99 72 72) is in an
excellent location on the edge
of the newly developed
Antigone district, close to the
old city. It has a small pool and
panoramic views from the
restaurant. Double rooms are
available from €210 (£175);
breakfast is an extra €23 (£19).
The 4 Etoiles (5), at 3 Rue
Delmas (00 33 4 67 02 47 69)
is a delightful bed and breakfast establishment in the
Arceaux district. It has four
rooms as well as a communal
area and outdoor terrace for
the exclusive use of guests.
Double rooms start at €94
(£78), singles at €72 (£60), including breakfast. The Hôtel
du Palais (6) is in the heart
of the old city at 3 Rue du
Palais (00 33 4 67 60 47 38)
and has double rooms from
€69 (£58), singles from €64
(£53). Breakfast is an extra
€10 (£8.35).
48 HOURS IN
it
CHECK-IN
portunity to enjoy the exterior (as it only opens 2.305.30pm Monday to Saturday,
3-6pm daily from mid-June to
mid-September, you may need
to pop back to see its contents;
admission is €6/£5).
From here, detour along the
tree-lined Esplanade Charles
de Gaulle, before browsing
through some of the lovely
squares that surround the Prefecture building, including
Place Pétrarque. At number
2 is the Hôtel de Varennes (9);
pop in to admire the building,
with its grand fireplaces, elaborate ceilings and furnished
rooms. This is now the Museum of Old Montpellier (00 33
4 67 66 02 94) which opens
9.30am-noon and 1.30-5pm
Tuesday to Saturday; admission is free. Return to the main
square along the Rue de l’Ancien Courrier, a narrow lane
with plenty of intriguing courtyards and turnings to explore,
passing the Hôtel Saint-Côme
(10), now the Chamber of
Commerce, on the way.
de D
ro
TOUCH DOWN
tourist sites, as well as free
public transport. The city’s
two tram lines provide an
easy and efficient way to get
around. Tickets must be
bought before boarding
from the machines at each
stop; a single journey costs
€1.30 (£1.10).
de l
’Eco
le
It may be the eighth largest
city in France, but Montpellier has an appealing, smalltown feel, as well as a lively
atmosphere that comes from
its student population, and
around 300 days of sunshine
every year. There is always
something for visitors to
enjoy, including the Christmas market, held throughout
December on the Place de
la Comédie (1).
Rue
WHY GO NOW?
Pa u
sse
ta
r
d
an
Ru
e
me
Bd
de
l’O
7
bse
rva
toi
re
250
METRES
Food &
drink
Square it’s at: Place de la Comédie, where the Christmas market is held in December ALAMY
Cultural
highlight
Shopping
Hotel Landmark Information
GRAPHIC BY JOHN BRADLEY
Ru
ed
u
G ra
n
THE INDEPENDENT SATURDAY 6 DECEMBER 2008
LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON IX
pellier
wonder this elegant French city is so relaxed.
estaurants – and wanders round ‘the Egg’
25
d Louis Blanc
rie
Ru e de l’A igu ille
Av e n u
B ou le va rd
B on ne N
ou ve ll e
e C h ar le
s
d e G au ll
e
ie
ler
uil
ig
l ’A
de
Es p la n ad
Ru
e
Chapelle des
Dominicains
Chapelle des
Pénitents Blancs
Opéra
Berlioz
Jardin du
Champ
de Mars
3
8
Lo
Av
ge
One of the charms of Montpellier is the variety of cafés
lining the city’s many squares.
Try Pain et Cie (14) at 4 place
Jean Jaurès (00 33 4 67 60 24
35) which offers a wholesome
choice of tartines and salads,
and a hot dish of the day for
€11 (£9.15).
u rt
en
ue
Mi
24
str
CULTURAL AFTERNOON
I
nri I
He
Allée
al
1
12
ntmorency
de M o
ANTIGONE
in
la
en co
R u e d ’A rg
ll e
C it a d e
d e la
9
14
de
e J e a n M e rm oz
A ll é e
15
rs
the choice includes several
kitchen shops, a chocolatier,
a cheese shop and a store specialising in local wines.
LUNCH ON THE RUN
Notre-Damedes-Tables
18
l
Place de la
Comédie
Centre le
Polygone
Ru
e
us
He
Av
va
rd
ne
e
23
FRANCE
Montpellier
Train Station
St-Roch
Musée Fabre (15), at 39
boulevard Bonne Nouvelle
(00 33 4 67 14 83 00) is Montpellier’s most important museum. Recently reopened
after a four-year renovation,
its three interconnecting
buildings contain European
paintings from the 17th
century to the present day,
acquired from various private collectors. It opens 10am6pm Tuesday, Thursday,
Friday and Sunday; 1-9pm on
Wednesday, 11am-6pm on
Saturdays. Admission costs
€6 (£5).
A WALK IN THE PARK
The Botanical Garden (16)
(00 33 4 67 63 43 22) on
Boulevard Henri IV, is the
oldest of its type in France.
With its tree-lined alleys and
attractive planting, it is an
ideal spot for a quiet stroll.
The garden opens noon-6pm
daily (until 8pm in summer).
Admission is free.
AN APERITIF
Paris
Place
Gibert
t Je
an
en
ue
n
ule
du
Bo
r
Ve
uelo
re
2
nri F
re n ay
or
ct
Vi
de
off
Mag
eJ
Parc
e d E. Robles
el
aR
ép
ub
liq
u
dS
ain
s
e
Rue
Ru
lle
Ru
Hu
i ro
go
sa
Theatre
Ru
4
Bo
Je
M
an
ou
Street life: Montpellier has plenty of cafés to soak up the local atmosphere
Esprit Vin (17) (00 33 4 67 56
51 14) in Place Chabaneau is
a pleasant spot, with tables
out on the square even on
mild winter nights. The blackboard lists more than 30
different wines available by
the glass.
at the Maison de la Lozere
(18) at 27 Rue Aiguillerie (00
33 4 67 66 46 36). This grand
establishment serves dishes from the Lozère department in northern Languedoc; menus start at €49 (£41).
For a more relaxed, affordable meal try the Comptoir
de l’Arc (19) (00 33 4 67 60
30 79), in the pleasant surroundings of Place de la
Canourgue, which is considered by many locals to be
Montpellier’s most beautiful square.
SUNDAY MORNING:
GO TO CHURCH
Montpellier’s cathedral (20),
with its striking stone canopy
over the main door, is a former monastic chapel that was
upgraded in the mid-16th century when the bishop moved
to the city. The Faculty of
Medicine next door was also
part of the monastery complex; pop into its courtyard
for the best views of the cathedral architecture.
OUT TO BRUNCH
The newest brunch spot
in the city is Mesdames
Messieurs (21) at 5 Rue de
Girone (00 33 4 67 63 49 53).
From 11am until 6pm you can
settle down to a vast spread,
comprising a hot dish (eggs,
smoked salmon, sausage,
savoury tart and potatoes)
and a help-yourself buffet
spread which includes cereals, pastries, fresh fruit,
salads, charcuterie, cheeses
and desserts – and all for
€26 (£21.70).
TAKE A VIEW
ALAMY
TAKE A RIDE
Hire one of the 1,200 bikes
available from Vélomagg’ (00
33 4 67 22 87 87) and explore
one of the outlying districts,
such as the modern Antigone
quarter designed by the Catalan architect Ricardo Bofill,
or follow one of Montpellier’s
many cycling trails. Vélomagg’ is based at the railway
station (23) and opens 8am8pm, but there are plenty of
hire points all over the city,
which operate slightly shorter other hours. Bikes cost €1
(£0.85) for four hours, €2
(£1.70) all day.
WRITE A POSTCARD
One of the newest attractions
in the city is the Mare Nostrum Aquarium (24), a fascinating glimpse into the undersea world. Although many
of the exhibits – including a
simulated but authentic
storm at sea – have been designed to attract children, it
is nevertheless fascinating to
see such a vast selection of
sea creatures at close quarters. Located on Allee Ulysse
(00 33 4 67 13 05 50), Mare
Nostrum is in the Odysseum
complex at the far end of the
blue tram line. It opens from
October until April 10am-7pm
Tuesday-Thursday, and Sunday; until 8pm on Fridays and
Saturdays; longer hours in
summer. Admission costs
€12.50 (£10.40).
ICING ON THE CAKE
The Serre Amazonienne
(25), the largest tropical
greenhouse in France, contains plants, birds, animals
and insects from the Amazon basin. Admission costs
€5 (£4.15). The Serre is at 50
avenue d’Agropolis (00 33 4
67 54 45 23). To get there
from the city centre, take
tram line 1 to Saint Eloi, then
transfer to the shuttle bus
marked “Agropolis”.
The Château d’Eau (22), a little octagonal temple on the
Promenade du Peyrou, hides
a reservoir that is fed from
Montpellier’s 18th-century
aqueduct. It offers an impressive view of the aqueduct itDINING WITH
self, stretching away into the
THE LOCALS
distance, and the Cévennes
If your budget allows you to mountains which form a For more information, see
splurge, why not book a table backdrop to the city.
www.sunfrance.com
SATURDAY 6 DECEMBER 2008 THE INDEPENDENT
X LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON
PILGRIM’S
PROGRESS
Cathy Packe follows in some ancient footsteps down south into the green
heart of the country, and finds a host of hidden delights along the way
T
he Château de
Quéribus stands
out against the
mountainous
landscape of
southern
Languedoc, a striking monument that appears to cling to
theshrub-covered slope like a
barnacle on a rock. At first,
only the keep is visible, a solid
structure whose walls are five
metres thick. Then, behind it,
a more extensive complex
emerges: a hall with impressive vaulting, a courtyard, the
remains of a barracks.
There are views of the
Mediterranean and the Pyrenees from here and, to the
west, another castle, Peyrepertuse, whose ruins are draped
across the ridge. The two are
partof a chain of fortifications
that once protected Languedoc’s southern frontier. They
also provided shelter, during
the12thand13th centuries, for
Cathars, religious dissidents
who broke away from the established church.
The route south from
Peyrepertuse to the Aragonese
frontier would once have involved negotiating the canyon
The Aude Road at the foot of the Gorges of Galamus;
Peyrepertuse castle (opposite) ALAMY; SIME/4 CORNERS IMAGES
at the foot of the Gorges of Galamus;nowaroad has been built,
which clings precariously to
the rock face, edging carefully around sharp indentations
and sudden bends. A nerveracking drive for any motorist,
a trip through the Gorges is
nevertheless one of the most
breath-taking experiences that
Languedoc has to offer. The
view – at least if you are driving – isbest admired from the
southern end, from where a
path leads down through the
woodland as far as the Hermitage, once a refuge for prayer
andnow a place of pilgrimage
at Easter and Whitsun.
West of the Gorges of Galamus,theroad through the valley of the river Aude is more
gentle. Along the river are
some attractive villages, such
as Alet-les-Bains, beautifully
preserved with its medieval
houses and quiet squares. A
spa town since the Romans
came to the region, it is dominated by the ruins of a Benedictine abbey, founded in the
9th century and upgraded to
cathedral status in the 14th.
The building is in ruins now,
but the walls and arches that
remain show how vast the original structure was. To the
north, the village of Limoux
straddles the river, which can
be crossed by a medieval
bridge. Arcades line the main
square, and the skyline is dominated by a large Gothic church.
At Carcassonne the river
Aude almost collides with one
ofthegreat marvels of French
engineering, the Canal du Midi.
Opened in 1681 to link the Atlantic and the Mediterranean,
it is 240km in length and took
15 years the build. The statistics are impressive: it has 64
locks and 54 aqueducts, and
45,000 cypresses and plane
treeswere planted beside the
canal to secure its banks.
These days, most of the boats
on the Canal are used by
tourists, who rent comfortable
barges as a relaxing base for
exploring the countryside.
On an autumn day on the
outskirts of Beziers, I found
several small groups of people
standing around in the sunshine beside the Canal. Behind
themwas a series of locks, the
Écluses de Fonserane. On the
Canal itself, three barges from
Active Languedoc
Languedoc has plenty to offer
those who like to use a break to
learn a new sport,
indulge in a favourite
hobby, or watch
others going
through their
paces. The
most exciting spectator event in
the region is the
Mondial du Vent,
nine days of windsurfing and kitesurfing competitions,
with freestyle, long
distance and slalom
events. The current
freestyle kitesurfing
champion, Britain’s
Aaron Hadlow, is expected to
defend his title next year, performing a dazzling selection
of jumps and somersaults.
New for next year’s event,
which takes place from 11-19
April at Le Franqui beach near
Leucate, is stand-up paddle
racing. Spectators can go
direct to the beach, or take
one of the regular shuttle
buses from Leucate; admission is free.
The proliferation of lakes
and rivers means that sports
like canoeing and kayaking
are popular in all parts of the
region. Among the best centres for these activities is
Roquebrun, a picturesque
village that tumbles down
the hillside above the river Orb.
The watersports centre,
Grandeur Nature, is at Chemin
de la Roque (00 33 4 67 89 52
90) and is open from mid-April
until the end of September.
Canoeists can go out with an
instructor, or hire a canoe and go
off on their own.
Golf is another popular
pursuit, with over 20 courses
in the region. Among these is
the Saint-Cyprien resort (00 334
68 37 63 63), whose two
courses, offering a total of 27
holes, are laid out beside Lake
Canet, close to Mont Canigou,
and have a four-star hotel
attached. The courses
(pictured) were upgraded
three years ago and are open
to everyone; green fees start
at ¤30 (£25) for nine holes.
The Golf Pass: ¤210 (£175) for five
green-fees. The Languedoc-Roussillon Golf-Pass includes five green
fees and allows the golfer to play
for a period of 21 consecutive days
on 12 different golf courses
theCrown Blue Line were waiting patiently as the water
gushed through the lock gates,
lowering them down, so they
couldcontinue their progress
towards the Mediterranean.
A few miles earlier the boats
had travelled through a tunnel
designedback in the 17th centuryinresponse to a challenge.
Just outside Colombiers was
ahilland, unable to find a way
around it, Pierre-Paul Riquet,
the engineer from Beziers who
designed the canal, decided to
build through it. On the top is
the Oppidum d’Ensérune, a
fortified village built by the
Gauls in the sixth century BC.
The diversity of its natural
surroundings is one of the
pleasures of Languedoc, and
parts of the region, including
the Cévennes with its dramatic scenery, have been given
Park status to protect the flora
and fauna. One of the first to
becreated was the Natural Regional Park of Haut-Languedoc,amountainous area slightly north of the Canal du Midi,
two-thirds of which is covered
by forest. The river Orb cuts
through it, and along its banks
are some delightfully picturesque villages: Roquebrun,
with its Mediterranean gardens, Olargues, with its medieval bell-tower, and peaceful
Villemagne-l’Argentière, with
its attractive churches.
There was a wealthy Benedictine abbey here which made
much of its money from pilgrims travelling along the
Route of St James. During the
17th century it expanded, and
awomen’s community was created three kilometres away in
the village of Herepian. The
nuns remained in the convent
until the Second World War,
when the building became a
school; it has now been given
a new lease of life as a luxurious, but still atmospheric, hotel.
Like the convent at Herepian, the Abbey at Fontfroide, a
former Cistercian monastery,
isnow also in private hands. It,
too, was on one of the pilgrims’
routes to Santiago de Compostela; a pilgrims’ chapel is
part of the monastery complex, and an ornate cross on
the hilltop above the Abbey
points out its location.
From the grounds of Fontfroide waymarked paths lead
uphill, through the bushes and
tall cypress trees, and out of
sight. The Abbey disappears,
seeming to sink back into a dip
in the landscape. But here, as
in the mountains and valleys
all overrural Languedoc, there
are plenty more hidden delights to discover.
For more information and the
chance to win a trip for two to
Languedoc-Roussillon, go to
www.sunfrance.com (Terms
and conditions apply.)
THE INDEPENDENT SATURDAY 6 DECEMBER 2008
LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON XI
Wine, herbs and song
A brief guide to the vineyards of Languedoc
T
here are plenty of
opportunities to stay
at vineyards, with
accommodation
ranging from small B&Bs to
more established hotels –
usually with a great deal of
charm and character.
Just 2km from the coast
at Narbonne Plage,
Château l’Hospitalet is set
in the dramatic Clape range
of rocky hills, a protected
area where orchids, thyme
and rosemary grow in the
wild. A faint scent of herbs
and sea infuses the wine
produced here.
A free hospital run by
monks was established on
this site in the Middle Ages
and today’s restaurant and
38-room hotel carefully
build on that original sense
of hospitality. There are
bikes to borrow, guides to
take you around some of the
1,000 hectares of moorland
that are part of the property, and art and craft workshops, while on Friday
evenings live jazz is played
in the restaurant.
Château l’Hospitalet is the
headquarters of energetic
winemaker
Gerard
Bertrand who owns five estates comprising 325
hectares of vines across
Languedoc-Roussillon. The
large “cave” in the hotel complex showcases his extensive range of wines while
honey, olives, truffles and
other produce of the estates
are offered in a shop.
Accommodation on a
more intimate scale is presented at Château de Raissac near Beziers. The 86hectare estate has been in
the Viennet family for six
generations and produces
everything from Cabernet
Feeling fruity: the region has a rich viticulture
Sauvignon and Rose to Viognier and dry Muscat across
a varied range of hills and
sunny river valley. The elegant chateau itself dates
from the early 19th century
and is the home of Jean and
Christine Viennet, respectively artist and ceramicist.
This delightfully laid-back
place is full of surprises, not
least a museum housing
Christine’s extensive collection of porcelain.
Meanwhile for a great
combination of vineyards,
striking grounds and chic
modern luxury, head to Domaine de Verchant near
Montpellier. This atmospheric boutique hotel offers
16 sleek bedrooms, tennis
court, infinity swimming
pool, outdoor Jacuzzi and a
brand new spa.
Where to stay on a vineyard
Château l’Hospitalet, Route
de Narbonne Plage, near
Narbonne (00 33 4 68 45 28
50) Doubles from €90, ex-
ALAMY
cluding taxes (breakfast is
an extra €8.90/£7.40). Or
come on a Friday night
when dinner (including
wine), jazz concert and bed
and breakfast costs just
€199 for two.
Château de Raissac,
ChemindeCarlet, Route de
Lignan, near Beziers (00 33
4 67 49 17 60) Doubles from
€100 (£83) including breakfast. Domaine de Verchant,
1 Boulevard Philippe Lamour, Castelnau-Le-Lez (00
33 4 67 07 26 00) Doubles
from €190 including breakfast.
Where to learn more
Vinecole, Domaine de
Gayda, Chemin de Moscou,
Brugairolles (00 33 4 68 31
64 14) is a new wine school
located near Carcasonne.
Half-hour tasting sessions
cost €15, one-day wine courses €175. Longer courses (with
luxury gite accommodation)
are also available
HARRIET O’BRIEN
Spicy vermouth
TRAVELLER’S GUIDE
Château de Quéribus (00 33 4
68 45 03 69) opens 10am-5pm
daily in Nov and Dec, is closed
in Jan, opens 10am-5.30pm
in Feb and longer hours as the
year progresses.
Chateau de Peyrepertuse
(00 33 4 68 45 40 55)
opens 10am-6pm Nov, Dec,
Feb and Mar, is closed in Jan
for three weeks. April, May,
Oct – 10am-6.30pm. and
with longer hours in summer.
Admission ¤5 (£4.20).
The Oppidum of Enserune
(00 33 4 67 37 01 23) opens
9.30am-12.30pm and 25.30pm from Oct to Mar,
10am-12.30pm and 2-6pm in
Apr and Sept, 10am-7pm from
May to August. Admission
costs ¤6.50 (£5.40).
Le Couvent d’Herepian
(00 33 4 67 23 36 30)
2 Rue du Couvent, Herepian
has double suites from
¤130 (£108); breakfast is
an extra ¤10 (£8.35). A
tables d’hôtes dinner is available
from ¤20 (£16.70).
Fontfroide Abbey (00 33
4 68 45 11 08) near Narbonne
opens 10am-4pm from Nov
to Mar, until 5.30pm from
Apr to mid-July and Sept-Oct,
until 6pm mid-July-Aug.
Access is by guided tour
only; these depart frequently
and last an hour. Non-English
speaking visitors must join
a tour, but will be given an
audio-guide. Admission
costs ¤9 (£7.50).
More information
www.sunfrance.com
In a region renowned for its
vines, it is surprising to realise
that Languedoc’s best-known
drink is a vermouth. Noilly
Prat has been made in the
region for nearly 200 years, a
blend of picpoul and clairette
grapes that have been aged in
oak barrels, first indoors and
then outside, where the liquid
is transformed from something light and fruity into a
drink that has more in common with sherry or madeira.
The outdoor ageing evolved
because the barrels were
once transported in slow sail-
ing ships and left open
to the sun, sea and wind;
as the ships speeded up
the flavour declined.
Noilly Prat’s hidden
ingredient is a mixture of more than
20 herbs and spices
added to the blended
wine, stirred by
hand and then
filtered to remove
before bottling.
The headquarters
of Noilly Prat, in the
small village of Marseillan, have archi-
tectural as well as viticultural
merit. Inside is a spiral
staircase designed early
in his career by a young
Gustave Eiffel.
Noilly Prat (1 rue Noilly,
Marseillan; 00 33 4 67 77
20 15). Guided visits take
place 10-11am and
2.30-4.30pm daily
in March, April, October
and November; and
10am-noon and 2.30-7pm
from May to September
and cost ¤3.50 (£2.90)
per person
SATURDAY 6 DECEMBER 2008 THE INDEPENDENT
XII LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON
BOWLED OVER
From markets to Michelin stars, Harriet O’Brien samples the region’s culinary delights
W
hen chef
Jérôme
Nutile
left threeMichelins t a r
Georges Blanc in the Bresse
region and returned to his
homeland of Languedoc-Roussillon, he was very much lured
back by the local ingredients.
The asparagus, he enthuses,
is especially good. And the
seafood, morels, herbs, beef
and olive oil – among other produce. He also, he explains, fell
for Le Castellas, a small, family-run hotel in the charming
village of Collias near Nîmes
in the north east of the region.
In 2004 Nutile started work
as chef at Le Castellas. Two
years later he was awarded
a Michelin star for his exquisite creations – the likes of
pike boudin tart with wild
mushrooms, and just-firm
scallops in light truffleflavoured broth. Great food
in an intimate and picturesque setting is, of course, a
truly winning combination.
Le Castellas, with its 21 bedrooms set over three 17th-century houses of mellow golden stone, welcomes a great
many repeat guests, which is
perhaps the highest accolade
a hotel could hope for.
Nutile’s dynamism and
passion are well matched
elsewhere in the region. In
Montpellier,
brothers
TRAVELLER’S
GUIDE
Where to find local produce
Maison Méditerranéenne des
Vins, Domaine de l’Espiguette,
Le Grau du Roi (00 33 4 66 53
07 52).
Terroirs, 5 Place aux Herbes,
Uzès (00 33 4 66 03 41 90).
Where to eat in style
Hostellerie Le Castellas,
Grand’Rue, Collias (00 33 4 66
22 88 88). Double rooms from
¤85 (£7 1) half-board (including
à la carte dinner and breakfast)
¤9 4 (£78); five-course gourmet
dinners from about ¤7 8 (£65).
Octopus, Rue Boieldieu, Béziers
(00 33 4 67 49 90 00) a la
carte dinner from¤5 2 (£43).
Le Parc, Chemin des Anglais,
11000 Carcassonne (00 33 4 68
71 80 80) main courses
from¤30 (£25).
Le Jardin des Sens, 11 avenue
Saint-Lazare, Montpellier
(00 33 4 99 58 38 38)
six-course à la carte menu
¤125 (£104).
More information
www.sunfrance.com
Jacques and Laurent Pourcel have two Michelin stars
at chic yet unpretentious
Jardin des Sens. Elsewhere
their ever-expanding food
empire includes Le Château
du Port at Marseillan and
AmeriKclub in Sète. Over
in Carcassonne, Franck
Putelat is renowned for
his modern, inventive
cuisine at his Le Parc
restaurant. While in
the bustling old
town of Béziers
near the coast, Fabien and Rachel
Lefebvre opened
Restaurant Octopus in January
2005 and won a
Michelin star earlier this year.
Like Nutile, these
chefs acknowledge
that they have an excellent range of raw
materials to work with.
From mountains to
Mediterranean coast, there’s
rich variety of ingredients in
Languedoc-Roussillon: anchovies, for example, around
Collioure, south of Perpig-
nan; cherries, pears and almonds inland in the Céret
area; oysters and mussels
cultivated in the lagoons further north; olives (and the resulting oil) from the woodlands north of the lovely medieval town of Uzès; truffles
in the same area, too; while
superb beef is produced in
the Camargue.
The diversity is reflected
in a wealth of traditional
local dishes. Cassoulet – the
hearty, slow-simmered
casserole of haricot beans
and different meats – is the
most famous. Of its many
variations the best known
are from Castelnaudary,
Toulouse and Carcassonne
with pork, sausage and goose
variously emphasised. On
the coast, the old port town
of Sète is famous for bourride, a type of fish casserole
served with aioli. In the Camargue specialities include
gardianne de taureau, a rich
stew of bull meat, while up
in the north western Haut
Languedoc area you’ll find
wild boar stew on the menu.
For a great show of the regional produce visit Les
Halles in Narbonne. At this
fabulous indoor food hall 70
or so traders gather every day
between 7am and 1pm and
you’ll see displays of everything from seafood to
sausages, rice (from the Camargue) to rich, maturing Dish of the day: the region is renowned for its variety of local ingredients (above) and
traditional cuisine such as cassoulet (left) ALAMY; GETTY IMAGES
goats cheese.
Or head to Uzès. On Saturday mornings almost the
entire old town becomes a
vibrant market place while
music, dance and song, as well
dance and theatre performon Wednesdays a smaller HERAULT
as crafts, exhibitions, animaances take place in the city.
food producers’ market takes July: Festival Radio France in
tions and workshop for children.
place in the atmospheric Montpellier. A wide variety
GARD
Place aux Herbes. It is here of concerts, films and conferSpring/autumn:
The
InternaPYRENEES
ORIENTALES
ences
held
in
the
last
two
that one of the region’s finest
21 June-31 October: Modern
tional Hiking Festival. (Ascenfood shops is located: Ter- weeks of July.
sion holiday; All Saints holiday.) Art Museum at Céret. A new
roirs specialises in the very August: Fête de la Saint Louis
12-14 June: Fête de la St Pierre exhibition telling the story of
best of the locality, with in Sète. Jousting tournament,
at Le Grau du Roi/Port Camar- this small town.
honey, mustards and a great held in Mid-August
22 June: La Saint Jean, Mont
gue. Celebrating the sea, with
range of olive oils and wine.
Canigou. A relay is held in order
various themed events
You can sample some of the AUDE
4
April:
Toques
et
Clochers
in
to light the Saint Jean fires
produce at the adjoining laidLOZÈRE
Malras, close to Limoux.
using the a single flame. Festiback café.
May: Fête de la Transhumance. val includes Catalan dances,
Meanwhile down by the International food and wine
Be-ribboned Aubrac cattle are
music and several shows.
coast of the Camargue, be- experts share their expertise.
herded up to the high plateaux
yond the seaside town of Le Various wine-tasting events.
For more information, see
Grau du Roi, is an absorbing July: Festival de la Cité, Carcas- pastures for summer.
sunfrance.com
shop selling Languedoc- sonne. Various opera, concerts, 20-26 July: InterfolkWorld
Roussillon specialities. In
Maison Mediterraneenne des
To win a trip for two to Languedoc-Roussillon, including a two-night stay in a Cercle
Vins you’ll find honeys, pates,
soups and casseroles, Camar- Prestige property and a gourmet meal, go to www.sunfrance.com (Terms and conditions apply)
gue salt and olive oils. It
For more information on Languedoc-Roussillon, visit the
would be difficult to leave
Maison de la Region Languedoc-Roussillion, 6 Cavendish Square, London W1G 0PD
empty handed.
2009 festivals