a cathedral ceiling is a grand way to open up your space, but
Transcription
a cathedral ceiling is a grand way to open up your space, but
Lofty ambitions A cathedral ceiling is a grand way to open up your space, but structural and insulation details need to be done right. Here’s a cottage owner’s primer on raising the roof By Josey Vogels 74 cottagelife.com October 2012 true 2 types of cathedral ceilings vaulted 76 cottagelife.com October 2012 Chad Martin sat in his 70-year-old lakefront cabin, wondering what to do. Tear it down and start over? It would be a shame, he thought, to lose the architectural detail and the history of the 1940s cabin that was once part of the Cedar Brae resort on Paudash Lake, Ont. But the low ceiling made the small space feel dark and cramped, and the front windows were so tiny he could hardly enjoy the gorgeous western lake view. “I thought, Why not open it up with a cathedral ceiling and bigger windows?” says Martin, who bought the old resort’s main building and the one remaining 625 sq. ft. guest cottage in 2007. “I had no idea if it was possible.” It is possible, but converting a cottage’s flat ceiling into a cathedral ceiling is not exactly a Saturday afternoon DIY project. Still, the appeal of a cathedral ceiling at the cottage is obvious—more light, potentially better views of the lake, and an open, airy feeling that helps blur the line between outside and in (between the heavens and the earth, if you want to get churchy about it). In theory, the steps are basic: Remove the existing ceiling surface and the attic insulation, brace the walls before taking out the joists, insulate between the rafters, add a vapour barrier, slap on your interior finish and, voilà, kick back and enjoy the celestial view. But the devil is in the details, and they can be “pure hell to get right,” says Don Fugler, a building science researcher in Ottawa. Before you talk to a contractor, do your homework: Take photos, measure the span of the ceiling joists, and investigate how the walls and the roof are attached. Ultimately, says Fugler, each cottage has its own obstacles—the information you gather can help your contractor find solutions. Even in a cottage that’s structurally sound, you can’t just remove a flat ceiling without consequence. “These old cottage roofs rely on a triangle structure,” explains Ken Davis, a structural engineer whose Toronto-based company, K.H. Davis Engineering Consultants, is seeing an increased demand for this kind of renovation. “Press the fingertips of your two hands together to form a steeple. Now picture the ceiling joists running between your elbows. Remove them and your elbows—the walls—push outward, causing your fingers—the roof— to come down, possibly collapsing the whole structure. “Because you’re changing the structure,” adds Davis, “you need a building permit. And you need to work with someone who understands how a handframed roof differs from a trussed engineered roof.” Many modern roofs are built with engineered trusses—triangular wood structures designed with the help of engineering software. A new truss roof this page, photo: derek shapton. illustration: ritzco. opposite: jim norton. previous pages: left, paul orenstein; right, jim norton A system of steel rods (opposite and p. 75), like the more commonly seen airplane cable, performs one of the key functions of ceiling joists: holding the walls together. Structural challenges may push you to consider a vaulted ceiling (left); it doesn’t reach the full height of a true cathedral ceiling, but is much simpler to build. a skylight, doesn’t it? maybe not paul orenstein that angled plane just begs for can incorporate a cathedral or vaulted ceiling without adding a lot of cost, says Ron Kapitain, a custom carpenter in Bancroft and an Albion Lake cottager. But it’s difficult to modify existing trusses without weakening them. Trusses aren’t the only cathedral ceiling framing option that’s possible in new construction: Another method uses a heavy load-bearing beam for the roof ridge. The beam, supported on each end by a structural post, shares the roof’s load with the walls. That’s fine in new construction, but retrofitting this system into an old cottage is a major structural change that may be impractical. Chad Martin’s cabin had sat empty for 30 years, and in that time the weight of the roof and snow load had caused the walls to bow outward. The contractors he hired for the job—brothers Mark and Jeff Graham—were concerned that removing the ceiling joists, with the walls already compromised, would cause the tiny cottage to collapse. Their solution was to strip the walls down to the studs and permanently rig airplane cables diagonally from corner to corner inside the framing to tie the walls together. Over a few weeks, they slowly cranked the cables tighter, pulling the walls inward 51/2 inches, until they were straight and secure enough to remove the ceiling joists. A creative and viable solution, says Davis, as long as builders get “proper advice on how many cables to use, how best to install them, etc.” Even with airplane cables, Martin’s contractors advised him to go with a vaulted ceiling. Unlike a true cathedral ceiling, which follows the entire pitch of the roof, a vaulted ceiling (see “2 Types of Cathedral Ceilings,” p. 76) stops short of the peak, with a central portion that remains flat. To do this, the Grahams installed 2x8 collar ties between opposing rafters about a foot and a half higher than the old ceiling. This approach allows for a higher ceiling while still tying in the roof and walls, says Davis, but “you have to make sure the new collar ties are well fastened to the rafters with the adequate—and legal—number of nails. If you only go up a foot and a half, 2x8 collar ties may be fine,” he explains. “But the higher you go, the greater the tie force on the structure and the more nails you’ll need. If you have to put nine or 10 nails into the end of a 2x8, it’s going to start splitting, and you’re once again in danger of compromising the structure. You may need to go with 2x12 collar ties, but you have to ensure the roof can handle the extra weight.” Then there’s the weight of the interior finish to think about, says Ron Kapitain. “The original rafters may not be able to support drywall or tongue-and-groove.” Reinforcing the rafters may be possible, but often that means the whole project will become so complicated—“the domino effect takes over,” he says—that a cathedral ceiling is not a good idea. The great insulation debate By choosing a vaulted ceiling, Martin not only avoided weakening the structure, he also created airspace that simplified venting and insulation—two of the most important, and hotly debated, concerns with cathedral ceilings. My husband and I winterized the cathedral ceiling in our own 784 sq. ft. 1970s Viceroy, also on Paudash Lake. Our rafters, like those in many older, stick-framed buildings, were too shallow for conventional winterizing: batt insulation, vapour barrier on the warm side, with a venting airspace between the batts and the underside of the roof deck (see “Insulating a Cathedral Ceiling,” p. 83). One solution would have been to add depth to the rafters, but we didn’t want to lose ceiling height. Instead, we opted for spray foam insulation. Because it could be sprayed onto the underside of On lonesome Georgian Bay, the bones of this seasonal cottage (opposite) are as exposed as the rocks outside. Where walls are unusually short, a cathedral ceiling makes the difference between cramped and comfortable. A cottage like this can be winterized, without covering the open studs and rafters, by adding a second roof overtop the original. the roof deck and rafters without venting, and could add plenty of R-value without changing the roof structure, spray foam seemed ideal—until the following spring, when rivulets of water started dripping down from parts of the ceiling. We have yet to determine what exactly is going on. According to Fugler, the problem with spraying foam in an old cottage ceiling is that if it’s not applied correctly, you can get gaps and cracks. In winter, warm air can find its way into the ceiling cavity. When it hits the cold roof deck, moisture condenses. And, if your roof deck is getting wet every spring and drying out over summer, says Jim Sangster, a cottagecountry building inspector and bylaw officer, it may eventually rot. “Because the foam is sprayed directly onto the roof deck, you may have to pull the whole roof and ceiling structure apart to fix it.” Ken Davis, however, has seen spray foam work well in converted cathedral ceilings, including his own, but not all municipal building departments share his opinion. “Check whether yours will accept spray foam insulation sprayed October 2012 cottagelife.com 79 In some cases, collar ties at every rafter pair... sECURING A CATHEDRAL CEILING ...can be replaced with doubled ties at every third pair. 80 cottagelife.com October 2012 directly into the roof joist cavity with no vented space above the insulation and below the sheathing.” Davis also says it’s unclear whether this product voids the warranty on roof membranes or shingles that have already been installed, or whether you still need a vapour barrier on the warm side of the roof after the foam is sprayed on. (Some manufacturers suggest that the spray foam is, in itself, a vapour barrier.) For these reasons, most contractors I spoke to—including Ron Kapitain—prefer to stick to the tried-and-true method of placing rafter vents (also called “moor vents”) along the underside of the roof deck from soffit to peak, a vent along the peak, and insulation batts between the rafters, followed by adding a vapour barrier, and finishing with drywall or tongueand-groove panelling (see “Insulating a Cathedral Ceiling,” p. 83). Where the roof rafters are too shallow to fit enough insulation to meet the R-values required by the Ontario Building Code, you can attach strips of wood to the underside of the rafters to deepen the cavity. Of course, nothing’s that simple. “Even if there is a continuous flow from soffit to peak,” says Fugler, “and you create enough ventilation, you may still draw in unwanted air and moisture. And what if you have, as you often do in these old Viceroy cottages, multiple beams that run along the roof deck from front to back? You simply can’t create an uninterrupted airflow from soffit to peak.” One way to avoid strapping rafters or venting around beams is to insulate over the existing roof deck. After removing the shingles (or other roofing material), insulate above the roof deck and then lay new, vented roof sheathing and shingles on top (see “Insulating a Cathedral Ceiling,” p. 83). This is also the easiest way to maintain the exposed-rafter look that’s typical of old, unwinterized cottages. That’s the approach Rita Cordeiro took after buying a 1920s Muskoka cottage with a very un-1920s insulated drop ceiling—“it looked like a ’70s suburban basement family room.” When she removed a ceiling tile, she discovered the fireplace’s stone chimney soared to the peak of a gorgeous, spruce-plank cathedral ceiling. Desperate to maintain the original ceiling but equally desperate to enjoy all four seasons at the cottage, Cordeiro enlisted the help of a clever contractor who suggested simply building a new roof over the old. The drop ceiling was not integral to the roof structure, so removing it created no structural problems, although the cottage’s old foundation piers had to be replaced to support the weight of a second roof. How to light the space As with the great cathedrals of Europe, lighting this cavernous space can be difficult, day and night. That angled plane this page, photo: daniel ehrenworth. illustration: ritzco. opposite: laura arsiÈ A new second storey (right) topping an old log cabin lets the sun stream in. At night, though, the space is hard to illuminate; pendant fixtures bring light to the cottagers’ level. A hallmark of traditional cottages, partial walls (left) aid airflow and are simpler to build than working around collar ties. The effect is casual and fun (until the snoring starts). When the ceiling will be clad in tongue-and-groove wood panelling (opposite) or drywall, builders usually insulate between rafters with batts or spray foam. this page: ritzco. opposite: daniel ehrenworth of the new ceiling just begs for a skylight, doesn’t it? Maybe not. “If you want to cause problems in roofing,” says Don Fugler, “skylights are almost as problematic as cathedral ceilings.” In a vented roof, a skylight creates a barrier in the soffit-to-ridge venting. While the technology of skylights is improving, you are essentially adding a large, heated hole in your roof, says Fugler. If heat escapes, it will melt any snow or ice around the skylight and could cause ice damming. At night, recessed pot lights can create wonderful, warm ambiance in a room with a cathedral ceiling, but the space limitations in the roof cavity can make installing and wiring them tricky. More importantly, pot lights create a break in the insulation, setting you up for moisture problems. Opt instead for pendant lighting that hangs low to help light specific areas of the room. Combine these with floor and table lamps to layer the lighting and keep a large, open room feeling soft and warm. The cost of overhead In each cottage, the challenges of creating a cathedral ceiling will be different. And so will the final bill. “If you find out the cottage is structurally inadequate, it may not be worth it,” Fugler says. “Of course, anything can be fixed, if you have the money.” Chad Martin spent about $14,000 to vault the ceiling in his cabin. Rita Cordeiro estimates the cost of the second roof and accompanying structural reinforcements at about $17,000 back in the mid-’90s, still much cheaper than removing the roof and rebuilding it entirely, as some contractors suggested. Since the reno, Cordeiro and her family have enjoyed what was once strictly a seasonal cottage year round. “You can’t Conventional insulating vents a cathedral ceiling below the roof deck with baffles that allow airflow from soffit to ridge (1). Builders extend the rafter depth (2) with strapping (3), attached with metal plates or plywood gussets (4), then pack in batt insulation sealed with a vapour barrier. Use mineral wool instead of fibreglass, suggests Donald Peckover, an architectural technologist at sustainable.TO. “It’s less likely to support mould,” he says. “And mice dislike chewing it.” Insulate between the rafters... 4 2 1 Vented A newer method avoids venting by spraying foam onto the underside of the roof deck (5). It’s more expensive, but spray foam’s higher R-value per inch means rafter extensions may not be needed. If you want exposed rafters, or if the roof structure will be hard to seal, you can insulate overtop the existing roof with layers of rigid polyisocyanurate foam or mineral wool sheets (6). This ceiling design is easy to vent (7) with strapping on top of the sheets—but it can also be left unvented (8). even tell the place has a second roof,” she says, adding that when guests walk in, their eyes immediately go up, and everyone’s in awe of the majestic stone chimney and plank ceiling. Martin is thrilled he was able to keep the charm and history of his wee cabin, now lovingly known as “Little Red,” while bringing it out of the Dark Ages. My own insulation saga is still waiting for its happy ending. We’re working with our contractor to stop air leakage, which is likely causing our condensation problems. Still, whenever I get frustrated or discouraged, I just look up at that big, open space and, I swear to God, I love my cathedral ceiling.a Writer Josey Vogels lives on Paudash Lake near Bancroft, Ont. A former city girl, she never thought that dew points, ridge vents, and strapping would become topics of her everyday conversation. 5 unvented ...or above the old roof. 6 7 Vented 8 unvented insulating A CATHEDRAL CEILING October 2012 cottagelife.com 83 3