This Feature

THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014
FRESH
RECIPES | NEWS | WINE & BEER | REVIEWS
+
WELL
PRESERVED
Susannah Carr’s
lemons. P9
Truffle
Kerfuffle
Guy Grossi headlines
the foodie event of
the season
EATING IN Recipes laced with black magic. P8-9 | GOOD OIL South West’s Olio Bello. P10
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014
2 FIRST BITE
FRESH
Broadbrush
Thursday, June 5, 2014
INDEX
A taste for this week
Broadbrush ........................................... 2
Guy Grossi & Truffle Kerfuffle ............ 3
Truffle dogs & Matt Skinner ............ 4-5
Fonty’s Pool & truffle stories ........... 6-7
Recipes and Susannah Carr ............. 8-9
Food News & beer .............................. 10
Wine & review ..................................... 11
Grilled .................................................. 12
COVER Guy
Grossi
PHOTO
Nathan Dyer
FEATURES EDITOR
Mark Mallabone, 9482 3574
[email protected]
EDITOR
Hermione Stott 9482 3451
[email protected]
STAFF WRITER Olga de Moeller
WINE Ray Jordan
BEER Vic Crossland
CONTRIBUTORS Connie Clarke, Mark Irving,
Emma Chitty
DESIGN Rory Tyson
ADVERTISING Marissa Owen
9482 3754
MONDO
BUTCHERS
Rhiannon Birch
with her Fraser’s
mentor, Chris
Taylor. Picture:
Rob Broadfield
Sharon Smith
In what can only be described as a
bombshell, Andre Mahe, the head
chef at Must Winebar, has
announced he is leaving the muchawarded Highgate bistro after 13
years. Mahe, an unfailingly cheerful
and modest son of a Brittany
charcutier has produced the best
charcuterie in Perth for many years
(his parfait and pate en croute are
sublime) and created some of the
most memorable bistro dishes in
town.
Mahe leaves in early August with
a long trip through Spain, France,
Italy and England on the cards.
“I’ll be back in Australia in
October and I’ll consider my next
phase then,” Mahe told Broadbrush.
“I would love to open a business on
my own like a charcuterie;
something a bit modern and up to
date with the times. That may be
on agenda next year.”
OPENING HOURS
TUES - FRI 8am - 6pm
SAT 7am - 2pm
DAILY HOT Roast Meat
Sangers YUM YUM YUM
Ph 9371 6350
824 Beaufort Street Inglewood
www.mondo.net.au
Now open at e
the Fremantl
Markets
Andre Mahe. Picture: Michael O’Brien
Bon voyage old mate and hurry
back. Taking over the reins from
Mahe is Diego Cossio, just returned
from a stint at The Ledbury in
London, with career stops at
Tetsuya’s and Quay in Sydney.
One of Broadbrush’s scouts — a
young man with a penchant for
cocktails — alerted us to the fact
that it is Negroni Week. It might
sound a little random but if you can
have prostate week and animal
welfare week, why not Negroni
Week? (A Negroni, by the way, is a
potent, bitter, aperitif-style cocktail
invented in Italy). Further
examination of Negroni Week
found that it is not a universally
accepted week of celebration. In
fact it’s specific to ACE Pizza in
Highgate, where they’ve been
making $10 negronis all week with
a $1 from each going to Leukaemia
Foundation.
You’ve got two
days left to share
the negroni love
at ACE.
The Southern
Forests region of
WA continues to
roll out its
high-profile
publicity and
engagement
strategies with
the
announcement
of a partnership
with the
Boatshed
Cottesloe.
“Genuinely
Southern
Forests”
produce will be
featured at the
Boatshed until
June 14
including
seasonal
Southern
WA Day has come and gone for another year. It
seems to be growing in strength and recognition as
WA’s special day of celebration. The naming of the
West Australian of the Year is a gala event over the
long weekend. So too is the WA’s Signature Dish
competition — an innovation this year with heats in
regions around the State culminating in the grand
final in Perth last Monday, WA Day.
It was a resounding success: bringing together
MasterChef-style competition with strong messages
about local produce, farmers and producers.
The winner was Rhiannon Birch, pictured here with
her designated chef mentor Chris Taylor and WA’s
Signature Dish for 2014, lamb rack with lupin za’atar
crust. A worthy winner.
And kudos to those chefs — it’s always the same
guys who willingly put their hands up for these sorts
of events and give their time for free — who mentored
contestants and judged the event: Pete Manifis, David
Coomer, Guillaume Brahimi, Ralf Vogt, Chris Taylor
and Sophie Zalokar.
Go online to thewest.com.au/lifestyle for the
winning recipe.
Forests produce such as pink lady
apples, persimmons, walnuts,
finger limes, marron and the star of
the show — the first truffle of the
season.
Boatshed owner Michael Pember
and Manjimup truffle grower Al
Blakers will auction off the first
truffle of the season to support
Muscular Dystrophy WA. The
inaugural Truffles for Muscles
Auction will take place today at
Kailis Bros, Leederville.
Full transparency demands that I
share some news with you. I have
recently taken an equity stake in a
restaurant business. It is the Wine
Store+Kitchen in East Fremantle. It
comes with a liquor store, which
should be a matter of grave
concern for my business partners.
(Seriously though) It’s important
that our readers are aware of this
because, when all is said and done,
the only commodity a restaurant
reviewer/commentator has to trade
is his credibility, ethical conduct
and fearless reporting — none of
which, I assure you, will be
compromised by this modest
investment.
Follow Rob
Broadfield on
twitter at
@robbroadfield
5th & 6th
JULY
9am…5pm
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014
TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE 3
First-class
fungal fare
Tantalising
treasures
• Truffles are mushrooms
which have evolved to grow
underground. Their fruit is a
lump of spores, which emits
an aroma when it matures
to attract hungry animals so
they dig it up, eat it and let
nature take its course.
Simple.
• It’s the aroma that carries
the flavour: earthy, mouldy,
sweaty, musty. It exudes up
to 80 different components.
Without aroma, the truffle
doesn’t taste like much.
• There are hundreds of
species, even a
psychoactive one, but the
two most aromatic and
expensive are the Tuber
magnatum, or the white
truffle, and the Tuber
melanosporum, otherwise
known as the Perigord or
French black truffle, the
most commonly cultivated
in Australia.
• They’re expensive —
top-grade Perigords are
$2500-$3000/kg —
because they’re difficult to
grow, in decline in the wild
and in high demand. There
are seven growers in
Australia — five in WA —
producing commercial
quantities and more than
150 fledgling trufferies.
Guy Grossi and other top
chefs are off to Manjimup
ife is busier than ever for
My Kitchen Rules guest
judge Guy Grossi, juggling
five Italian restaurants
with his charitable work and latest
cookbook, Love Italy, as he prepares
to head west for the Truffle
Kerfuffle, at Fonty’s Pool in
Manjimup, from June 27-29.
The veteran chef is a natural,
born and bred in Melbourne where
he honed his skills, and is most in
his element at his Bourke Street
flagship, Grossi Florentino, with its
honest, regional cuisine. “We like
to have a place of origin and focus
for our food, so you don’t just end
up with dishes thrown together for
creativity’s sake,” he said.
“In addition to that, Melbourne
Italian has its own style, just like
New York Italian, because food
evolves and draws on the
influences around it. Obviously, I
love pasta, in particular my
mother’s tagliatelle — it brings
back memories of growing up.”
His ultimate food indulgence is
white truffles from Alba in Italy,
shaved over a dish called the
“prince and the pauper” —
handmade long pasta with potato.
“They’re an amazing luxe
experience and hideously
expensive,” he said. “We pay
anything up to $7000/kg. Some
Perigord did come through (from
Europe) but it’s nice to use local
produce, so we draw on Manjimup
quite a bit. I don’t know if it has
anything to do with terroir, but
Manjimup truffles are amazing.”
Grossi is looking forward to
going on a truffle hunt at the
Truffle Kerfuffle and will join a
line-up of top chefs for the Hunt
L
Chef Guy Grossi at his flagship Melbourne restaurant, Grossi Florentino. Picture: Nathan Dyer
and Harvest dinner launch, which
is sold out, on June 27. Grossi will
do the marron course; Michele
Forbes, from Trustee Bar & Bistro,
an amuse bouche; Peter Manifis
(Incontro), the entree; Philippe
Mouchel (PM24), the main; Guy
Jeffries (Millbrook Winery), a
cheese plate, and Curtis Duffy, from
two-Michelin starred Grace, in
Chicago, dessert.
“We try to keep the dinner
launch menu hush-hush until the
night for that element of surprise,”
Truffle Kerfuffle president Sonia
Porter said. “This year, we’ve
extended the event over three days
GUY GROSSI’S FRESH TRUFFLE SAUCE
This is a simple sauce for veal ravioli. Make your own, or buy
fresh from an Italian grocer.
Makes about 17 serves
at 2-3 ravioli per serve,
depending on size
large pot water
small handful salt
250g unsalted butter
1 bunch sage, chopped
150g reggiano
parmigiano
10g truffle, sliced
To cook, bring water to the boil
and add salt. Meanwhile, melt
the butter in a pan with the sage
and leave to the side. Add your
ravioli to boiling water and cook
for four to five minutes, strain
and transfer to pan with butter
and sage. Toss with parmigiano
and serve with sliced fresh
truffle on top.
to include Sunday and make it
more accessible to people.”
There will be stalls selling
gourmet goods, such as pickled
walnuts, jams and flavoured
almonds, a bustling farmers’
market and activities galore,
including half-hourly truffle hunts
($40), masterclasses ($65-$145),
paddock-to-plate food discussions
with radio journalist and author
Louise FitzRoy, a three-course
Hunt and Harvest long-table lunch
($125) on June 28 prepared by
Aaron Carr, from Vasse Felix,
Danny Angove (Leeuwin Estate)
and Scott Bridger (Bib & Tucker)
INDULGENT
and a Farmer’s Long Table lunch
($125) on June 29 presented by Food
Land Culture with chefs Sophie
Budd, Kiren Mainwaring (Dear
Friends and Co-op Dining) and Joel
Valvasori-Pereza (Lalla Rookh).
“It’s going to be bigger than Ben
Hur,” said Manjimup Truffles’ Al
Blakers, who was expecting the
“king of caviar”, Raphael Bouchez,
from Kaviari, Paris, to drop in.
Blakers is gearing up for a
bumper season as crops mature
and has been fielding calls since
mid-May from chefs in Perth eager
for their share. He was due in Perth
this week with his first pick.
“Give it another 10-15 years and
Manjimup will become the truffle
centre of the world,” he said. “I
export 70-100kg of truffles in season
and expect that to double in the
next three or four years. France
had a poor season because of heavy
rains, so our truffles will be in big
demand — and we haven’t tapped
into the world’s biggest markets,
like Russia. Locally, I’d sell 8-10kg a
week.”
Olga De Moeller
The Truffle Kerfuffle will be held at Fonty’s Pool
in Manjimup, June 27-29. More information and
tickets at trufflekerfuffle.com.au.
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014
4 TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE
Good nose
for the job
Animal instincts are handy,
finds CONNIE CLARKE
s top-flight chefs in North
America put the
finishing touches on
their summer menus,
many eagerly await their delivery
of Perigord truffles from WA’s
Southern Forests region.
At La Toque in Napa Valley,
California, chef Ken Frank is
excited to embark on his
restaurant’s second summer season
with fresh black winter truffles
from The Truffle & Wine Company
in Manjimup.
“Last year their perfume was
extraordinary, every bit as good as
the finest European truffles,” he
said. “We are excited to be able to
pair fresh winter truffles with
summer ingredients to create
delicious combinations never
before possible.”
So confident is fellow Napa chef
Thomas Keller in WA’s product,
that he’s already using the
preserved gourmet mushrooms in
his pasta dishes at his iconic The
French Laundry.
Meanwhile, not content simply to
wait for his delivery, Chicago’s
Grace Restaurant chef Chris Duffy
will join others from around
Australia at Manjimup’s Truffle
Kerfuffle, from June 27-29, to see for
2345384-1πDTHM010514
A
himself how the fungal delicacy is
grown in the west.
The demand from Europe, North
America and Hong Kong has been
growing at break-neck speed, and
this year the Southern Forests’
three leading trufferies will
produce close to seven tonnes of the
black gold during the upcoming
three-month harvesting season.
Fetching more than $2200/kg, it’s
a lucrative export business for WA
growers, who produce more than 80
per cent of Australia’s truffles.
While the region’s karri-loam
soils and Mediterranean climate
are credited with producing the
world-class fungus, it’s man’s best
friend that makes digging for
truffles ultimately possible.
“Without them, there would be
no industry,” Truffle Dogs WA’s
Melanie Booth said. “The truffles
live underground and we need the
dogs to sniff them out. Once upon a
time in Europe they used pigs but
there were a lot of fingers missing
because the harvesters had to fight
the pigs who wanted to eat the
truffles.
“The industry then turned to
dogs because while they love the
hunt, they don’t see the truffles as
food. Instead of wrestling a
100-200kg sow, you’re dealing with a
20kg dog, who is usually eager to
please.”
Although she is WA’s most
experienced truffle dog handler, Ms
Booth fell into the industry when a
former Australian Customs
colleague, who started his own
truffle farm in Manjimup, reached
out for help.
“There was no one in WA at the
time capable of training the dogs,”
Ms Booth said. “I joined Customs
in 2000 and by the end of 2004 I was
working with the dog unit in
Canberra — it was a narcotic unit
and I’d had plenty of training in
working with the dogs on scent
association.
“I took some leave and joined a
dig in 2007 with our white labrador
Viva. She had been a prisons dog,
so she was trained in scent
association and accustomed to
what was required.”
Along with her husband Gavin
Booth — now chief executive of the
district’s biggest trufferie, The
Truffle & Wine Company — Viva
and another trusty companion,
black labrador Rani, the Booths
have helped turn the local industry
into a multimillion-dollar
enterprise.
“Viva and Rani have probably
found more truffles between them
than any other dogs in the
country,” Ms Booth said. “They’ve
been the mainstay of our business.
I’ve been taking them to 30 separate
orchards for the past two years, and
to a couple in the hills of Perth.
“They absolutely love it — they
sulk if they can’t hunt. They have a
great nose and they are fantastic
pets as well as wonderful truffle
dogs.”
Rani, whose father was one of the
Queen’s hunting dogs, holds the
record between the two prolific
hunters.
She sniffed out a truffle two years
ago that weighed almost a kilo.
Viva isn’t far behind, with her best
find weighing in at just under
800g.
Truffle dog
handler Melanie
Booth and her
superstar truffle
hunter, Viva.
Picture: Ian
Munro
Hunting for treasure
Includes:
Toast, bacon, eggs, sausages and
hash brown – free percolated
coffee & tea (*continental breakfast extra)
When they set out on their first hunt of the season, Viva, Rani and
Lola can hardly contain their excitement. Despite an early start on
cold mornings, the loyal labradors are raring to go.
Truffle Dogs WA’s Melanie Booth and the dogs will cover several
kilometres a day sniffing out the prized truffles that will end up on the
plates of diners in Europe, North America and Hong Kong.
“When we reach areas in the orchard that are heavy in truffle it
becomes an amble but we walk anywhere between 10 and 15km every
day and search somewhere between 1000 and 2000 oak and
hazelnut trees,” Ms Booth said. “Somewhere between 50 and 70 per
cent of the ripe truffle isn’t visible, so we need to train the dogs to
sniff out the product that’s ready for harvest.”
Ms Booth has trained her dogs to differentiate between immature
truffles and those with the plump black flesh that chefs adore. “The
key is finding something the dog really desires, like a toy she really
loves. We play games together with that toy and some time later I’ll
impregnate the toy with the smell of a ripe truffle, so it’s associated
with pleasure.” Visit trufflekerfuffle.com.au.
Lola the truffle dog. Picture: Sonia Kohlbacher
Tickets on Sale @ www.trufflekerfuffle.com.au
2014
WHAT’S ON
MASTERCLASSES, TRUFFLE HUNTS, FARMERS MARKET,
KITCHEN THEATRE, GALA DINNERS & LONG TABLE LUNCHES
2014 CHEFS & CELEBRITIES from
+ SPECIAL GUEST CHEFS,
Leeuwin Estate, Vasse Felix, Lamont’s,
Print Hall, Incontro, Restaurant Amuse,
The Trustee, Millbrook Estate, TasteBudds
Cooking studio & many more!
'hz'ZK^^/&ůŽƌĞŶƟŶŽDĞůďŽƵƌŶĞI CURTIS DUFFY Grace Restaurant,
Chicago I JAMES PARRY Sixpenny, Sydney I SHINICHI MAEDA Sake,
Brisbane I SHAWN SHEATHER Australian Good Food Guide
MATT SKINNER Plumm Wineglasses
CHALETS AND CARAVAN PARK
MA N JI MUP , WEST ER N A UST R A LI A
southern
forests
food
festival
June 27-29
@ Fonty’s Pool,
Manjimup, WA
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014
TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE 5
Glass act is ready to blow you away
MARK IRVING
meets Matt Skinner
e started his working life
as a bottle shop attendant
but within a decade Matt
Skinner was a respected
sommelier working with celebrity
chefs such as Jamie Oliver and
Tobie Puttock, and an
accomplished wine writer.
“It’s now my 21st year in wine
full time,” Skinner said. “But I
never got into it with a career in
mind. I simply got into it because I
needed some money.”
He said he was lucky that in 1993,
aged 18, his boss at the Hawthorn
hotel where he worked decided to
send him on a wine course —
despite Skinner showing no real
interest in wine. And he felt
similarly fortunate that he had a
good teacher for that course.
Skip forward a few years and
Matt Skinner is an award-winning
wine communicator heading to WA
for the Truffle Kerfuffle, where he
will host the Plumm Wine Glass
Experience.
Plumm is the brand of stylespecific wine glasses launched in
2009 by a Melbourne-based family
food and wine distribution
business, Valcorp Fine Foods. The
range includes handmade,
machine-made, stemless and
polycarbonate glasses for outdoor
use. Skinner was asked to
contribute notes to Plumm’s
catalogue of its five types of wine
glass — two for reds, two for whites
and one for sparkling wines. The
aim of the new venture was to
produce a range of glasses that was
specific to different wines but also
UT
Matt Skinner will
show the
difference of
drinking wine
from a glass that
was designed
for it. Picture:
Stephen Baccon
suitable for everyday drinking, and
Skinner was impressed.
“I was blown away by the fact
there were only five glasses in the
range, not 50 or 500,” he said.
“For as long as I’ve been writing
and talking about wine I’ve been
trying to communicate that wine
doesn’t have to be difficult or
stressful or expensive — it should
only ever be simple and enjoyable.”
Skinner said the synergies
between what Plumm was offering
and what he was trying to do as a
wine educator led to his greater
involvement with the brand.
Today, he’s the Plumm
ambassador hosting wine glass
masterclasses at events such as
Truffle Kerfuffle.
These are fun and informal
sessions, he says, which last
about 45 minutes and which
often revolve around a theme.
“There’s no right or wrong in the
class,” he said. “I’m not trying to
ram down people’s throats ‘This is
what they must do at home’. It’s
simply an opportunity to open
people’s minds to a new experience,
an alternative.”
During the classes Skinner uses a
“comparison” glass — the standard
wine glass that most people are
familiar with. This enables them to
compare and contrast for
themselves the taste between a
standard glass and a glass
specifically designed for that type
of wine.
So what does he say to the
argument that if a wine is good
enough, it will taste good out of any
glass — even a plastic tumbler.
It’s like watching television, he
replies, and making do with black
and white versus colour. Or
listening to music.
“If you listen to a favourite album
you can listen to it from a
headphone on your phone or in
surround sound,” he said.
“The difference that surround
sound makes is profound. And I
think ultimately, if you care about
what you drink you should care
about what you drink from.”
Though Plumm’s glasses are the
only wine-specific glasses
developed and designed in
Australia, they are actually made
in Europe. A wide search was
conducted to try to source the
glasses from a manufacturer in
Australia but it was unsuccessful,
he said. The search went worldwide
and ended in Slovakia which
Skinner describes as “the home of
great crystal stemware”.
“Like most people, I love
truffles,” Matt Skinner said.
“I’ve known about Truffle
Kerfuffle for a while and I’ve
always been envious whenever
I’ve heard about it. I’m
incredibly happy and feel very
fortunate to be part of it this
year.”
But what to drink with
truffle-based dishes?
“Pinot has this lovely
mushroomy, earthy character
to it which lends itself
brilliantly to truffles,” he said.
“And nebbiolo, while it has
those lovely savoury aromatic
flavours, lends itself really well
to truffles and has more tannin
to it than pinot noir, so you can
change the kind of protein you
might be incorporating into a
dish. Nebbiolo can handle
slightly more robust dishes as
a result.”
Not that truffles demand a
red. Skinner says they work
beautifully with sparkling
wines and also chardonnay.
Fresh asked him for some
WA wines that would suit a
meal including truffles, and
here are his choices:
• Larry Cherubino Ad Hoc
Cruel Mistress pinot noir
2012
• Plantagenet sparkling brut
2009
• Fraser Gallop Parterre
chardonnay 2012
• Xanadu Reserve chardonnay
2011
• Singlefile Frankland River
cabernet sauvignon 2012
HERN
S
SO
H
Choose
a vino
FO
T
R ES
have you ever
TA ST E D G E N U I N E LY ?
––––
HOW DO YOU KNOW?
genuinely_southern forests_truffles
Taste is one of those things. It’s personal. It’s
individual. But a funny thing happens if you give
people a truffle, a marron or an avocado that is
genuinely grown in the Southern Forests.
Everyone says the same thing, “Why can’t they all
taste this good?”
SOUTHERN
FORESTS
manjimup
pemberton
great
southern
ocean
northcliffe
walpole
THAT’S A GENUINE EXPERIENCE.
perth
The Genuinely Southern Forests brand is your
guarantee your food has been grown in soil so rich
and naturally fertile, it can support towering
Karri forests. These very same forests act as a natural
barrier keeping pests and disease out, so your food is
grown as naturally as possible. And because the region
adjoins the Southern Ocean the rainfall is abundant
and the temperatures mild, so produce ripens slowly
and gently, developing deep, intense flavours.
It’s genuinely different down here. You can see it.
You can feel it. You can taste it.
southernforestsfood.com
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
6 TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE
hen Jeremy Beissel
and his wife Kelly
bought Fonty’s Pool
in April 2012, they
had big shoes to fill. They bought
the stunning property from the
Fontanini family, who’d owned it
since Archie Fontanini bought the
land in 1907. Now, the restored
Manjimup landmark site, which
originally opened to the public in
1925, is to host the Truffle
Kerfuffle for the third year
running.
“Previously we were fishermen
from Leeman,” Mr Beissel said.
“We went looking for a change
for our two girls and found Fonty’s
by accident after seeing a for sale
ad in The West.
“We loved it at first sight and
could see the potential.”
After their purchase, the
Beissels restored the historic
venue to include a cafe and
wedding reception and function
area, among newly planted trees,
new camping facilities and two
four-star chalets.
“We’ve tried to create a venue
that can be great for both ends of
the spectrum — a couple who just
want to have a coffee and a quiet
visit, right up to the Truffle
Kerfuffle which may see
thousands here,” Mr Beissel said.
“It’s a place where families can
come and kids can play without
too much restriction — they
rediscover what living is about,
meet other people from all over
and wear themselves out.”
The help and care of the
Manjimup locals has been
paramount to the restoration of
Fonty’s Pool.
“The locals got behind us —
without them, we never would
have been able to get the result we
have,” Mr Beissel said.
W
“The Best of the Best Beef in WA”
No one is happier to see
Fonty’s Pool restored to its
former glory than those
returning after many
‘We loved it at
years — whether 20, 50,
first sight and
or in one case, 84.
“We have people turn
could see the
up every day and say they
potential.’
swam here years ago,” Mr
Beissel said.
“It’s fantastic that in
another 80 years time the kids
visiting today will be able to say
they swam in 2014 — it makes it all
worthwhile.”
Mr Beissel said it’s important
they not underestimate the
interest and enthusiasm for the
Truffle Kerfuffle when hosting the
highly anticipated event.
“The truffle is the greatest
agricultural product as far as I’m
concerned and our farmers were
smart enough to turn Manjimup
into a world-leading producer,” he
said.
“With the international
significance of the black truffle
and the fascination with it, we’re
on display to the world.”
There will be a bigger marquee
of stalls, food, wineries and
produce and undercover bar.
“We’ve put a lot of planning into
the venue for the event and we’re
confident it will stack up,” Mr
Beissel said. “With any luck, Kelly
and I will be strolling around just
enjoying the day.”
Fontys Pool
in bloom.
Picture:
John Alford
UT
pregnant and wanted an
alternative to alcohol,” Mr
Mikecz said. “The adult market
was well catered for with ‘hard
drinks’ but not so much with
interesting options for
those wanting to kick
back, relax and enjoy
having a drink without
the unwanted effects of
alcohol, including
hangovers.
“We have found
Rochester Ginger is
relished by those for
whom it brings back
memories of traditional
drinks their
grandmother made —
those that often
exploded under the
house — foodies who
love experimenting,
indulging and exploring
new things, adults who
want the feeling of
having a drink without
drinking alcohol and
thrill-seeking Gen Xs
and Ys, who love the
punch and excitement it
delivers.”
The Yarra Valleybased couple took a
break from their
corporate careers to travel the
world seven years ago and fell in
love at first sip with Rochester
Ginger, which they’ve been
promoting at food and lifestyle
expos around Australia since
coming back home.
“We started by importing a
couple of cases, then a pallet,
and it’s just taken off from there,”
Mr Mikecz said.
Olga De Moeller
have
if ityou
saysever
HERN
FO
T
R ES
TI TA SCTO EMDE SG EF N
R OU MI NHE ELRY E?
–––– means
that actually
IHTOCWO MD EOS YFORUO MK NH OE RWE?.
Paddock to Plate a passionate showcase for produce
Treeton Farm Beef is meticulously hand
selected to achieve eating quality excellence.
2379530ϖSLMO200314
Treeton Farm Beef available exclusively at:
• Duxton Firewater Grille
• Cable Beach Club Resort
• Mahogany Creek Inn
• Rose and Crown Hotel
• Heritage Bar and Grill
“Treeton farm represents the best in WA produce, the beef is
naturally raised in the beautiful fields of our southwest.
Duxton Firewater Grille philosophy is of promoting the best of
WA and Treeton Farm is at the top of the tree!”
Aaron Burrows – Executive Chef at Duxton Hotel Perth
“They turned up with
machines, workers,
expertise and acts of
generosity that
very few places
would be capable
of.
“The Fontaninis
themselves were
extremely helpful
and we’re proud to be
great friends with them
today.”
One drink led to another for
Belinda and Rob Mikecz, who got
hooked on Rochester Ginger in
the UK and now import it for
distribution to a niche market
that wants a pick-me-up without
the hangover. It’s the real deal,
made by a third-generation
artisanal producer in Rochester,
Kent, hence the name, to a 19th
century “Dickensian” recipe.
“In fact, when people try it
they’re taken aback at how much
it tastes like a stiff drink,” Mr
Mikecz said. “It looks like whiskey
and has a similar texture but the
punch comes once it hits the
back of the throat — a sure-fire
way to rejuvenate a jaded palate.”
With 14 per cent pressed
ginger root — compared with 2-3
per cent in most ginger drinks —
elderflower, cowslip and raisins,
it’s picked up a couple of world
beverage awards for nonalcoholic drinks and is a natural
neat, straight out of the bottle,
on the rocks or splashed into
mineral water with fresh mint and
a slice or orange or lime. It can
also be mixed with fresh fruit
juice or poured into green tea as
a comforting warm drink.
There are three ginger drinks in
the range, including a Rochester
Dark Jamaican Ginger and a
Rochester Organic Lemon, Lime
and Ginger, plus a Rochester
Organic Mulled Berry Punch. All
are non-carbonated and will be
available at the Truffle Kerfuffle.
The drinks have different
flavour profiles, depending on
where the ginger was grown and
sourced. Chinese, Jamaican and
Fijian varieties are used.
“It all started when my wife was
S
B
EMMA CHITTY
visits the historic
venue, host of
the truffle festival
Ginger packs punch
SO
rined, dried and pickled, walnuts are so much
more than a nut. Bettina and Andrew Pretsel,
from Pretsel Vineyard in Manjimup, pack them
into jars and bottles for a gourmet treat that
was popular in 18th century Britain. They’re picked
green in November-December and used whole, including
husk and developing shell.
“We have to wear gloves — otherwise your hands go
black — and pluck them, one by one, off the tree,” Ms
Pretsel said. “Then they’re brined for a month, drained
and put out to dry in the sun for a day or two but you
have to watch it’s not too hot. Traditionally, green
walnuts were used for making dye and in medicine.”
The Pretsels make five varieties of pickled walnuts —
they look like truffles on a passing glance — and a
pickled walnut vinaigrette with extra virgin olive oil
and a touch of balsamic vinegar for punch. All will be
available at the Truffle Kerfuffle.
“They’re made to traditional recipes,” Ms Pretsel said.
“The malt and apple-cider pickled walnuts are based on
British recipes and the white-wine pickled walnuts are
French.”
There are also honey-preserved walnuts with a
slightly salty ginger-lemon spice flavour. It’s based on a
traditional Persian recipe and they go down a treat in
egg-based desserts, such as creme caramel, souffle,
cheesecake and baked custards.
Her favourite is the vinaigrette, which is just as
versatile as a gravy or sauce. “It’s great with marron,
crayfish and chicken, over salads, or as a marinade for
steak and lamb chops,” she said.
Pickled walnuts were traditional British Christmas
fare in the 1700s when they were usually eaten with
leftover cold meats on Boxing Day. Now they are on to
high-end restaurant menus.
It’s a niche market that opened up
for the Pretsels about five years
ago with surplus walnuts from a
100-year-old tree planted by early
settlers on their 40ha vineyard,
which supplies grapes for labelled
wines. Walnut trees of a similar
age can be found from Albany to
Donnybrook, along the Darling
Scarp and even north of Perth.
The couple now bottle about one
tonne of nuts, supplemented by
crops from neighbouring farms.
They have also planted another 500
trees, which should start
producing in two years.
Olga De Moeller
THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014
TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE 7
Fonty’s restored to its former glory
Pickled walnuts
back in vogue
•
Whenever she’s in WA, Louise FitzRoy
can expect to be told that her voice
sounds familiar.
It’s a common experience for the
Melbourne-based food writer and
educator, and there’s a simple
explanation: as a radio reporter at ABC
South West, her voice was often heard
on the airwaves.
In fact, her popular Cold Esky
Challenge, the series of weekly reports
she compiled in Bunbury as the station’s
rural reporter six years ago, was the
genesis behind From Paddock to Plate
— a multimedia brand that Ms FitzRoy
promotes around the country.
“I just fell into it,” she said. “As the
rural reporter, you’re given a 20-minute
slot every morning and this is the time
we get to create what we want to put to
air.”
Ms FitzRoy decided she’d use the slot
to focus on how food made its way to
our tables. So she set about
interviewing farmers and growers,
taking their produce to local chefs and
bakeries, and then talking with local
winemakers about what to select with
the recipes.
“I got to experience collecting honey
surrounded by bees, deep-sea
fishing . . . and I remember collecting
truffles with a dog,” she said.
“It was pouring with rain and I was
digging in mud, all my equipment was
covered in mud — it was so much fun.
“I learnt so much and that’s why I’m so
passionate about Paddock to Plate
because all of these experiences and
this knowledge that the farmers have
could be lost if we don’t pass them on.
So I feel like my role with From Paddock
to Plate is helping pass on the tips and
the tricks of the trade while at the same
time supporting agriculture. I hope
people realise that, without farmers,
there would be very limited food on our
shelves.”
From the Cold Esky Challenge a book
evolved — From Paddock to Plate — and
an eight-part video series she made to
show schoolchildren where food comes
from.
She’s since released a Paddock2Plate
iPhone app and regularly attends food
events to spread the word to foodies.
Ms FitzRoy took From Paddock to
Plate to last year’s Truffle Kerfuffle
where the audience, she says, was
“incredible”.
“I was overwhelmed by the audience
participation,” she said. “They asked so
many questions and they wanted to be
so involved. I can completely
understand why Truffle Kerfuffle has
been increased to two days because
there is that need.”
The event also gave her a deeper
insight into truffles’ place in cooking. “I
had no idea of the range of truffle uses
out there,” she said.
At this year’s Truffle Kerfuffle, Ms
FitzRoy will lead 10 stage shows (five on
both Saturday and Sunday) of about 40
minutes each and she promises lots of
different elements. They will include
genuinely_southern forests_cauliflower
It should go without saying. But it doesn’t.
That’s because it’s not always easy to tell if
something is entirely from a certain region
or just kind of sort of from a certain region.
NOT DOWN HERE.
It’s been grown in soil so rich it can support
towering Karri forests. Nurtured in a region
so pristine and isolated, it is protected from
most pests and diseases. Ripened slowly in
a cool climate with abundant rainfall, so
intense flavours develop.
SOUTHERN
FORESTS
manjimup
pemberton
great
southern
ocean
northcliffe
If you’re looking for world-class produce,
it’s on your doorstep.
walpole
sessions aimed at children and talks
from truffle growers, chefs and
winemakers as well as a truffle-dog
demonstration.
“It’s really interactive,” she said.
“We teach how to grow truffles, how
to cook with truffles . . . often people
are scared to cook with truffles.
“But they don’t need to be.”
Mark Irving
Louise FitzRoy with
Damon Boorman
and Errol the dog.
If it has that stamp you see on the top left of
this page it’s the genuine article; a guarantee
your food has been grown with passion, care
and concern for the environment on one of
the family farms that make up the Southern
Forests region, 300kms south of Perth.
perth
southernforestsfood.com
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014
8 EATING IN
’Tis the season to truffle
Kirsty Carre
WA’s black
gold is finally
available so
plate up and
create a
home meal
that truly
shines
For more recipes
from Fresh go to
thewest.com/lifestyle
Parsnip puree and truffleinfused scrambled egg
BREAKFAST TREAT
Infuse your eggs for exactly three days —
any more and they will taste funky; any
less and they will taste of nothing but egg.
Serves 6
2 parsnips
2 tbsp cream
2 tbsp butter
6 eggs
1
⁄4 cup cream
6 pieces shaved truffle
Use eggs that have infused with truffle
for three days. To infuse, place whole,
raw eggs and truffle in a glass airtight
container and leave. When ready to eat,
start with the parsnips; peel and top and
tail them before chopping into even
pieces, then steam or boil until
completely tender. Puree with salt and
pepper, cream and one teaspoon of
butter and set aside. Whisk the eggs
with cream and season with salt and
pepper. Heat a non-stick pan, add
remaining butter and turn the heat down
to low, add the egg mix and stir over the
gentle heat until you have soft curds.
Spoon a little parsnip puree into an
empty cleaned eggshell and then a
generous amount of scrambled egg.
Shave a piece of truffle over the top.
Serve immediately.
R
NN
WI E
WITH TH
VERY ANGERYKICK OF
MULES
2
2013
AL
NK
N-
RI
NO
A NON ALCOHOLIC DRINK
B E ST
W
NATURA ORLD
L BEV
AWARD ERAGE
S
C O H OLIC
D
Bringing the World's Best Non-Alcoholic
Beverage to the Southern Forests
Rochester Ginger, awarded gold at the
World Natural Beverage Awards, is coming to
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The holy grail for serious gingerholics.
Stockists: rochesterginger.com.au
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THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014
9
SUMPTUOUS SIDE
Truffled wedges
Preserved
lemons
Truffle oil is an economical way to get lots of flavour without
having to buy a whole truffle. Just make sure you use goodquality oil that uses actual truffle for flavour rather than one
that uses chemicals to enhance the oil.
Serves 6
6 potatoes
1-2 tbsp
vegetable oil
1 tsp salt flakes
1 tbsp truffle oil
2 tbsp grated
parmesan
Cut each potato into eight wedges
and place in a bowl of cold water,
before draining, rinsing and rolling in
a clean tea towel to remove excess
starch. Preheat the oven to 200C and
then toss the potato wedges in the
vegetable oil, spread them on a
baking tray and sprinkle with salt
before placing in the oven to roast for
about 45 minutes. Just before
serving, drizzle over the truffle oil,
toss gently and serve with a sprinkle
of parmesan cheese.
Gnocchi and roasted cauliflower
with truffle
COMFORT FOOD
If you have the time, this dish is so much better made
with homemade gnocchi. The combination of truffle oil
and fresh truffle make it a really luxurious winter meal.
Serves 4
500g homemade
or quality shopbought gnocchi
1 small cauliflower,
cut into bitesized pieces
2 tbsp vegetable
oil
2 tbsp butter
1 clove garlic,
minced
1
⁄2 cup sage leaves
1 tsp truffle oil
1 small truffle
Cook the gnocchi in boiling salted
water until just cooked and then
drain and set aside. Toss the
cauliflower in the vegetable oil and
roast in a preheated 180C oven for
20 minutes or until just tender with
some charring on the edges. Heat
the butter in a large non-stick
frypan with the garlic and sage
leaves; add the gnocchi and brown
on one side then the other. Add the
cauliflower and stir gently to
combine, before removing from the
heat and adding the truffle oil.
Season with salt and pepper. Divide
between four plates before shaving
truffle over the top.
Locally all the
Susannah Carr
summer fruits
are gone and
apples, pears and citrus are in full
swing. If you have access to a
lemon tree then lucky you! Time
to get preserving — and they are
easy to prepare. Simply wash your
lemons, cut them three quarters
of the way through, turn upside
down, rotate, and cut again,
keeping them in one piece. Pack
each lemon with loads of salt and
put as many as you can into a big
jar. Fill the spaces with spare
quarters and halves and add more
salt. Throw in a couple of bay
leaves, a cinnamon quill and some
peppercorns and top with
strained lemon juice, then let
nature take its course for about
six weeks. When they’re ready,
preserved lemons have a lovely
salty mildness and you only use
the rind. Wash it, chop it and add
it your favourite dish. Try mixing it
with breadcrumbs, parsley and a
little olive oil for a great topping
on a piece of baked salmon or add
it to a guacamole. No Moroccan
tagine is complete without it. Jars
of preserved lemons also look
great in your kitchen and make a
fantastic gift for friends.
Photography Iain Gillespie
Stylist Ursula Nairn
Truffled mushroom ragu on crispy polenta
I made this dish with Fenella Peacock at a recent pop-up restaurant night we
co-hosted and it was a huge hit, so I would like to share it with you.
Serves 8
500ml milk
1 litre water
300g polenta
1
⁄2 cup grated parmesan
1
⁄3 cup olive oil
2 tbsp butter
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp thyme leaves
1kg mixed mushrooms, some
chopped, some left whole
2 tbsp chopped parsley
1
⁄2 cup toasted hazelnuts,
chopped
2 tbsp truffle oil
1
⁄2 small truffle, shaved
VEGETARIAN
Heat the milk and water in a large, heavy based
saucepan until simmering, then in a steady slow
stream pour in the polenta, stirring to avoid
creating lumps. Keep stirring until the polenta is
absorbed and thick and bubbling (the time will
depend on whether or not you have used instant
polenta). Stir in the parmesan. Oil a shallow
20x15cm baking tray and pour in the cooked
polenta. Cool then cover and store in the fridge.
This can be done the day before you cook the
mushrooms. When ready to serve, preheat oven
to 220C. Cut the polenta into squares or round
discs. Brush all over with a little olive oil and place
on a baking tray before crisping in the oven for 20
minutes or until well browned. Meanwhile, heat
butter, garlic and thyme in a wide, shallow pan,
add the mushrooms and cook until soft. Season
with salt and pepper, stir through the parsley and
then spoon equal amounts over each plated disc
or square of polenta. Sprinkle with hazelnuts and
truffle oil and then shavings of truffle.
Popcorn with
truffle salt
DECADENT SNACK
Truffle-salted
popcorn is a
decadent snack that
can be enjoyed on a
couch in front of a
movie or served at a
cocktail party with
champagne.
Makes 6 cups
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1
⁄2 cup popping corn
2 tbsp melted butter
1 tbsp truffle salt
Heat the oil in a large,
heavy based saucepan
and then pour in the
popping corn. Replace
the lid and listen to the
corn popping, when you
can only hear one or two
pops per second, remove
the pan from the heat.
Stir in the butter and
truffle salt and serve.
NEXT WEEK
In Fresh don’t miss
our exotic Turkish
recipes
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
10
•
THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014
FOOD NEWS BERLINDA CONTI
It’s the good oil
Free sourdough workshops
Artisan breads are so on-trend right now, so Kitchen
Warehouse is hosting a series of sourdough
workshops with special guest and master bread
maker Daragh Grier, from Wild Bakery in South
Fremantle. Using a Dutch oven, Grier will share his
tips and tricks on how to make sourdough and, of
course, guests will have a chance to tuck into his
freshly baked loaves. Workshops are free from
2-3.30pm on Saturday (Melville), Sunday, June 15
(Cockburn) and Sunday, June 22 (Osborne Park).
Visit kitchenwarehouse.com.au for more details.
Portuguese pastry heaven
London-trained pastry chef and owner of Glory Box
Wedding Cakes Peter Smedley blew our socks off
with a tray of his authentic Portuguese “custard
pastels” (tarts) recently. Based on a technique
dating back to the 18th century, the pastels have
been adapted to our Australian tastebuds and are a
little less sweet than the originals. Think creamy
cinnamon and vanilla custard surrounded by crisp,
melt-in-your-mouth butter pastry. Baked fresh daily
(except Sunday). Orders need to be placed by 5pm
the day before, $39.60 per tray of 12. Find at 358
Charles Street, North Perth or visit glorybox.com.au.
MONDO
Butchers Extraordinaire
MANJIMUP
FRESH TRUFFLES
The Romance Begins
With The Aroma of Love!
Phone 9371 6350
#14W2289701-3_5/6
Come See Our Fabulous Shop
G OT S O M E FO O D N EWS?
Send details to
[email protected]
It has been 30 years since the original owners of
Olio Bello realised their vision to create an olive
grove on a perfect piece of land in Margaret River.
A few years later, the 129ha estate was certified
organic and the first crop was harvested in 1992.
“Olio Bello was the first producer in Australia to
make ‘citrus pressed’ extra-virgin olive oil,” said
manager Shellie Gaskin, who added the cafe’s
legendary lime oil and rosemary cake — a moist
and nutty syrup-covered teacake — has been
adored by visitors for more than a decade.
“The cake was invented by our previous chef
who decided to use up the leftover crusts from the
sourdough bread we use for sampling,” she said.
“We use the lime-pressed oil, roasted almonds,
rosemary from the garden and a little of our
homemade organic pane di casa bread instead of
flour, which gives a denser flavour. Eggs and a
little sugar are added then we cover in syrup.
“It’s so popular we give the recipe to customers
— we’d never take it off the menu.”
Olio Bello, unlike many commercial producers,
doesn’t bottle its product in bulk but rather
bottles it in line with demand.
“Very few olive oil companies do this. We store
the oil in stainless steel in a coolroom and bottle
by hand when we need it. That way, the oil doesn’t
deteriorate and the freshness is retained,” said
Mrs Gaskin, who is also a naturopath and
herbalist and is creating the brand’s
soon-to-be-released organic skin-care range.
The extra-virgin olive oil range includes a long
line of infused varieties such as the bestselling
parmesan oil, as well as vanilla, five fruits, chilli
and cardamom and a recent release, ginger, garlic
and chilli.
The organic range, including its award-winning
Kurunba oil, is made entirely from the certified
organic estate.
Also in the stable is an “estate range”, “estate
pressed” and “pressed” citrus, basil and
passionfruit olives oils.
Olio Bello is at 36 Armstrong Road, Cowaramup
or visit oliobello.com. Stockists include Nosh
Gourmet Food and Gifts in East Victoria Park, the
Boatshed Market in Cottesloe, Liquorice and
Fresh Provisions stores.
Olio Bello manager Shellie Gaskin with some of
the products. Picture: Iain Gillespie
Support dementia programs
All this month, Alzheimer’s Australia WA is
encouraging West Aussies to “bring it to the
table” by hosting fundraising high teas, dinner
parties, picnics or barbecues, all in aid of
recognising dementia and raising funds for AA
WA’s vital support services and programs. Rally
up your pals because the highest fundraising
host will win a fully catered dinner for eight,
cooked by charity ambassador, chef and
fishmonger Josh Catalano (pictured with fellow
charity ambassadors Stefania Muscara and
Daniela Pirone). Visit bringittothetable.com.au
to register or follow Twitter feeds at
#BringItToTheTable or
facebook.com/bringittothetableWA.
824 Beaufort St, Inglewood
We thought we’d
never see the day
our beloved Cherry
Ripe would be sold
in a block. But until
the end of June,
Cadbury is indulging
us with three limitededition chocolate
treats . . . and they’re
spreading the love.
Find Cadbury Cherry
Ripe exclusively at
Coles (200g),
Cadbury Dairy Milk
Crackle (210g) at
independent
stockists and the
new Cadbury Dairy
Milk Picnic (210g —
think nuts, rice crisps
and toffee) at
Woolworths. Find
out more at
facebook.com/
CadburyDairyMilk
Australia, all $4.99.
Beer barrel
Vic Crossland
Beer of the week
2013 HOWARD PARK
GREAT SOUTHERN
RIESLING
Announced as one of
Matthew Jukes’ 100 Best
Australian Wines 2014/2015
www.burchfamilywines.com.au
Fursty Ferret
(4.4 per cent)
As an understated
alternative to
ubiquitous American
pale ales, this English
best bitter exhibits as
much character as
the ferret rumoured
to have sneaked into
the Badger brewery
to sip from the
fermenter. Copper
red, poured with a
firm white head, the
Dorset brew is
superbly flavoured
and balanced.
Lemons, peaches,
fresh grass, earthy
hops and spice
titillate the nostrils.
Roasted nuts, tasty
toffee, vanilla and
liquorice sweetness
on the palate lead to
a crisp, dry finish with
citrus-sharpened
bitterness.
Williams 7 Giraffes (5.1 per cent)
Be amazed: with seven malts, three
types of hop flowers — UK, US and
European — elderberries in the boil and
lemon juice at the end, Scotland’s
Williams Bros have brewed a unique
strong bitter ale. It smells tangy, floral
and tastes of rye, coffee, creamy
chocolate, spice, citrus and herbs.
Remarkable.
Belhaven Twisted Thistle (5.3 per cent)
The thistle represents Scotland, the
brewery’s home for 295 years; the twist
is combining British hops with a New
World variety. The result is a
copper-coloured, full-bodied,
melon-sweet, chewy malty, deeply plum
and apricot tasty, rather bitter and
pleasingly refreshing India pale ale.
Spider Cider (5.5 per cent)
The Cidery at Bridgetown calls this
“natural dry cider” and it is: made from
crushed apples and bubbly from
champagne yeast, there’s nothing
added — not even water. Smelling apple
fresh from the 330ml bottle, smooth
and slightly sweet, it evolves
green-apple crisp to a dry, lingering
aftertaste.
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014
REVIEWS
11
Pictures: Iain Gillespie
1-9 Don’t bother
1 0 -1 1 Patchy
1 2-1 3 Good
14 Recommended
1 5 -1 6 Very good
17 Memorable
1 8-19
Classic/nearing
perfection
20 Perfection
Cellar talk
Ray Jordan
Wine of the week
Azahara pinot grigio 2013 ($15)
As a general rule I take pinot
grigio with a bit of ho-hum
indifference. And that’s flattering
it. But then you get something
such as this wine across your
tasting bench and things change.
In the first place it’s different and
out there both in aromas and
palate. There’s actually some
interest in here and I admit to
returning to it a number of times
trying to get a better handle on
what I was tasting. It has intense
spicy aromas of pear and apple
crumble. The palate is as dry as
chips but with excellent flavour
intensity. Gee, I’d reckon I was
drinking something from Italy
here. Lovely aperitif style of wine
with plenty of freshness and life.
Score: 92/100
Virtue of
simplicity
No-fuss cafe does what it says, writes MAX BREARLEY
Workshop Espresso
Address: 206 Cambridge Street,
Wembley
Open: Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday,
Friday 8am-6pm, Thursday 8am-7pm,
Saturday 8am-5pm.
The buzz: Simple charm from strippedbrick walls to a one-page menu.
12/20
Azahara shiraz 2013 ($15)
A beautifully made red wine displaying bright plummy
fruit with a little vanillin oak. It has a silky smooth palate
with a fine-grained tannin and fine oak influence
creating the perfect structure for a wine of this body.
Medium-bodied and ideal for current drinking. Great
with tapas.
Score: 90/100
Chapel Hill McLaren Vale Parson’s Nose shiraz 2013
($16)
Here is value plus. Juicy, ripe fruit but it’s not overdone.
Spicy plum aromas with a little vanillin oak influence.
Grainy, dusty tannins and a little fine oak influence add
to the feel in the mouth. Excellent wine for the short
term while it retains some of those primary characters.
Score: 90/100
Coriole McLaren Vale Redstone cabernet sauvignon
2012 ($20)
Displays some distinctive
regional gravelly, loamy earthy
characters on the nose with
some light leaf and ironstone
influence. The palate is medium
weight with grainy tannins and
understated oak influence. Has
a tight thread of oak and tannin
holding the fruit to a focused
long finish. Nice wine.
Score: 89/100
Coriole McLaren Vale Redstone
shiraz 2012 ($20)
This is a neatly crafted fleshy
shiraz displaying plenty of
supple, middle-palate fruit
intensity with a healthy,
well-weighted oak influence
supporting the fine ripe tannins.
An elegant and stylish wine for
this price, which is great value.
Ideal as an all-purpose food
wine.
Score: 90/100
Workshop Espresso’s Bridget Robertson and Christian Proud.
implicity is something I
often crave but find is
seldom delivered. Read a
menu in the smallest of
cafes and it’ll tell you the
provenance of everything from the
bread to the bean. A humble
sandwich, dissected in prose before
it’s even made it to the plate.
Sometimes I just want the bare
minimum, with no menu clutter,
trusting that the basics of a
roast-beef sandwich are known and
don’t need to be laid out in detail.
I’ve found simplicity, tucked into
the corner of Wembley Cycles on
Cambridge Street. Here, in the
cathedral of the lycra-clad swarms,
you’ll find Workshop Espresso.
Breakfast and lunch served to eat
in or take away. What could be
simpler?
On any given weekend, visit
many a coffee shop and you’ll
know from the line of shiny road
racers that the black stuff fuels the
pelotons of Perth, so coffee needs
to meet muster. Here it is from 5
Senses, served by a barista who
seemingly knows his regulars and
makes those who are not feel no
less welcome.
Breakfast seems to be grab-andgo for most but we choose the
wooden window seat to take in the
one-page menu. At $6.50 the ham
and cheese croissant satisfies both
S
my appetite and the pocket for a
weekday breakfast. Bacon and egg
wraps, with a simple relish, now
seem sadly to be off the menu but I
can hope for their return.
Back for lunch, it’s a Wednesday,
which means we miss the Tuesday
Reubens Special. So what, most
would say, but for me, to miss out
on a Reubens can render me
useless for the afternoon. As I
brood over the sandwich that never
was, a roast beef salad with
horseradish is capable of rescuing
me from my afternoon food sulk.
Firm ciabatta, generous slices of
beef and plentiful but not
overpowering horseradish.
Peppered with rocket, it’s how it
should be done. Smoked salmon,
avocado and cream cheese is
evenly balanced, nothing
overpowering the salmon and
tightly enough packed as not to
suffer the indignity of a smear of
green on your pristine lycra.
It may not be the latest food
concept — a simple coffee,
sandwich and a good cake spot —
but these are the places that all too
often fall down with lack of care
and thought. Lycra optional.
Check out the West Weekend magazine
for reviews by Rob Broadfield.
BROWN HILL
margaret river
Superb Rich Reds...
Outstanding Value
Handpicked, Estate Grown & Bottled
SMALL PRODUCER OF THE YEAR
IT’S O U R WO R L D A N D W E N E E D TO
Ray Jordan’s WA Wine Guide 2010
Ray Jordan’s WA Wine Guide 2009
K N O W W H AT I S H A P P E N I N G
2009 PERSEVERANCE
Cabernet Merlot
96 Points, Ray Jordan
2010 BILL BAILEY
Shiraz Cabernet
95 Points, Ray Jordan
If world news, fashion, sport,
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important to you,
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get The West Australian home delivered.
Freecall : 1800 185 044
Fax: (08) 9757 4004
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Freecall 1800 811855
Cnr of Rosa Brook & Barrett Rd Rosa Brook W.A. 6285
W O R K I N G T O M A K E W A A B E T T E R S TA T E
FWG05X3DELVR
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014
12 TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE
Grilled
Bib and Tucker co-owner and head chef SCOTT BRIDGER is off
to the Manjimup festival. He talks to Fresh about all things food.
WHAT IS YOUR FIRST FOOD
MEMORY?
My dad’s experimental cooking —
vegemite shouldn’t be a seasoning.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE
MEAL?
Fresh fish, eaten raw, with punchy
condiments. It’s not really centring
on the Japanese way of eating it,
like sashimi, but more eating it like
the Italians do where it’s called
crudo. Crudo can be raw fish with
really bold, fresh flavours to
accompany it. It might be some
grapefruit segments, fresh green
apple and horseradish, or
ground white pepper and jalapeno
chillies.
BEST CHEAP AND CHEERFUL?
With two kids and the restaurant
we don’t have a lot of time to eat
out but a memory that sticks is
having the most incredible food at
the food markets in Barcelona.
Nothing was over 10 euros — they
did this tiny baby calamari that was
half the size of your little finger,
cooked whole with chickpeas and
chorizo — it was almost like a stew.
You can spend hours walking
around those markets, looking at
stuff and trying different things.
WHAT WAS THE LAST BOTTLE
OF AUSTRALIAN WINE YOU
DRANK?
Singlefile’s cabernet merlot.
WHAT KITCHEN GADGET CAN
YOU NOT LIVE WITHOUT?
My sharpening steel — I’ve had it for
eight years.
BEST BURGER?
Rockpool Bar and Grill. They’re
balanced and full of David
Blackmore’s Wagyu.
WHAT WAS YOUR LAST OMG
FOOD MOMENT?
The phenomenal response to my
food at the Taste of Perth Festival.
We sold a whopping 3200 pork
sliders. One of my favourite dishes,
the Fremantle octopus salad, was
also awarded a Best in Taste award
— it was a great feeling.
BEST COCKTAIL
Moscow mule from Eau De Vie in
Sydney. It had yuzu curd in it.
WHAT MUSIC DO YOU LIKE TO
EAT BY?
Chilled reggae.
WHAT IS YOUR ONCE-A-YEAR
FOOD INDULGENCE?
Greasy fish and chips by the ocean.
We eat very healthily at home and
cook a lot of stuff from our garden
— it’s a bit of a treat for us, sitting
by the river with a beer or a glass of
wine.
BUCKET-LIST RESTAURANT?
Noma (Rene Redzepi). It is so
modest whilst creating inspiring
food.
WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE
ASPECTS OF WORKING WITH
TRUFFLES?
West Australian truffles are among
the best in the world — the black
truffle is just awesome. I love
knowing they come from your
backyard and it’s great to be that
close to such an amazing product
and use it in a nice way. Plus dealing
with the colourful growers —
they’re so passionate.
WHAT ARE YOU MOST LOOKING
FORWARD TO ABOUT THE
TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE?
Cooking with a great bunch of
chefs and using amazing Southern
Forests region produce.
Scott Bridger at Bib and Tucker in North Fremantle. Picture: Robert Duncan
Where to eat
★ South Indian Specialties ★
Cafes
The Vic Kitchen Food & Wine
Asian Fusion Restaurant
●● Now OPEN Sat/Sun ●●
dine in | t/away | home delivery
for Lunch 11am - 2pm
310 Walcott St, Mt Lawley 9271 2603
575 Canning Hwy, Alfred Cove
Breakfast✩Lunch✩Takeaway
BYO
no corkage 7days 5-10pm
Fully
Lic
|
Dine-in
|Takeaway
|
9329
9099
great selection of food✩perfect location
9473 1762 www.fullmoonthai.com
7 Days • 6:30am - 4.00pm
38 Moolyeen Rd, Mt Pleasant
Ph/Fax us for your catering...9315 3003
Mobile woodfired pizza for all occasions
We deliver* to you...call us!
$15 Pizza & Pasta•cond apply*
Tue-Fri: Lunch Tues: Dinner
94 Aberdeen Street, NORTHBRIDGE
www.ilpadrino.com.au 9227 9065
Fantastic, funky & modern surrounds to
enhance your dining experience!
Dine in⎮Takeaway⎮fully Lic & BYO
Tues-Fri 11-3pm Tues-Sun 5-10pm
Phone 9355 0011
691 Albany Hwy, East Vic Park
Delicious Aussie Style Meals
New Moon a new name for
Hoi’s Kitchen
Yes we are now @ New Moon
in and enjoy our great food in our
Kids Bouncy Castle Sundays Come new
Shop 12, 59 Arnisdale Rd, Duncraig
exciting location today
Mon-Fri 8-4:30 | Sat 8-1:30 | 9448 3100 4752 West Swan Rd, West Swan
Sim Day & Night
Ph 9274 7277
Closed Tuesday Day: TueDim
- Sun............... 9.30am - 3.00pm
Night: Fri & Sat ............6.00pm - 9.30pm
63 James St, Northbridge 9328 8720
Restaurants
★ Perth's BEST Coffee ★
as Voted by 94.5 & Channel 7
Drawing on its Italian heritage, L’Enoteca
an Italian wine BAR and BISTRO
offers patrons the chance to experience
some of the best Italian wines and
traditional family recipes.
Lunch Wed-Mon • Breakfast Sat & Sun
Dinner Wed to Sat from 6pm til late...
What’s under the lid?
Thurs - Sat Lunch ⎮Tues - Sat Dinner
Fully Licensed Ph 9472 5881
249 Albany Highway Vic Park
Kids eat free Tues-Thurs nights*
Special Seniors Discount*
(Lunch Mon-Thu* Dinner Tue-Thu)
459 Nicholson Rd, CANNING VALE
*Conditions apply
9456 1362
www.willowpond.com.au
Where to eat
Want to attract
more diners to your
restaurant?
Be seen in where
to eat advertising
feature every
Thursday in FRESH.
Where to eat
~Vintage Styled Tea Room~ Dine-in ★ Take away ★ Home Delivery
homemade cakes | light meals | high tea
Halal ⎢ FunctionsCatered
Open Fri, Sat & Sun 10am - 4pm
72 Bisdee Rd, MILLENDON 9296 6567
19/70 Langford Av, Langford
www.valentisonthebrook.com.au www.buasiam.com.au 9356 6668
A: Free ads when you book 4 with
Contact Jennifer on 9482 2456
[email protected]
FWA03X1WTEC3
Every Wednesday is Buffet Night
$18
Where to Eat
Want more? Ph 9482 2456
Hotham Valley Railway
Dine in or Takeaway
Every Saturday Night & Selected Fridays
Enjoy a 5-course meal in our Vintage Dining Car, meandering
through the night forest - softly floodlit from the train. $79pp
CHINESE RESTAURANT
Specialising in group bookings
where to eat
#14W2457625-29/5
FU ZHONG FU
#14W2451460-22/5
Please book to secure your seat
9472 3938
Sunday-Thursday 5pm-12pm
Friday & Saturday 5pm-2am
Cnr James & Meadow St, GUILDFORD
www.alfredskitchen.com.au 9377 1378
Enquiries and Bookings
6278 1111
FOR
BOOK NOW LY
XMAS IN JU
www.hothamvalleyrailway.com.au
Contact
Jennifer on 9482 2456
or email jennifer.spanbroek@
wanews.com.au.
DUTCH BU
BUTCHER
Gem
A HidCodffeeen
Lunch Snacks
Restaurant Train
(No Lic BYO Alcohol)
Bring ad
Get
Open
6
Days
(closed
Mon)
all you can
10% off
Lunch Tues - Sun fr 11am
eat & drink
Dinner Tues - Thurs 4:30 - 9.30pm bill excl Wed
Buffet!
Fri - Sun 4:30-10:30pm
315 Albany Highway, Vic Park
★ ALFREDS KITCHEN ★
FWA06X1WTEC1
NOW Tues - Sun 5pm - 10pm
Want to attract more diners to
your restaurant?
Be seen in where to eat
advertising feature every
Thursday in FRESH.
Breakfast
Br
ture
r Signa
Tr y ouoquettes
Cr
Mon-Fri
5am-2:30pm
Sat
6am-12noon
Ready hot or fro
frozen
aalso available in most
IIGA’s and Spudshed in
Jandakot & Wanneroo.
Ja
SSupplying Perth with
a fine selection of
29 Adrian St, Welshpool
continental smallgoods.
co
Ph 9361 3903
#14W2466319-5/6
To advertise in this section please call Jennifer on 9482 2456 or email [email protected]
BWA01X6WTEBO