How to Knit Entrelac Plus 6 Free Entrelac Knitting Patterns

Transcription

Entrelac Knitting:
How to Knit Entrelac
Plus 6 Free
Entrelac Knitting
Patterns
Entrelac Knitting: How to Knit Entrelac
Plus 6 Free Entrelac Knitting Patterns
ENTRELAC IS A KNITTING TECHNIQUE
THAT’S USED TO CREATE FABRIC THAT
LOOKS LIKE IT’S WOVEN.
and then goes beyond the basics to show you how
to knit entrelac in the round.
The fabric is knitted in interlocking rectangles and
triangles; stitches are picked up and knit from the
edges of previously knit sections.
The patterns include an easy scarf pattern, darling
entrelac felted bags, some really interesting and
fun mitts, a lovely shrug, a flattering tee, and some
truly amazing socks.
Entrelac can be knit flat or in the round, in
stockinette or garter stitch, in one color or in
multiple colors. It’s a very versatile stitch pattern!
Have fun learning entrelac and knitting these
fabulous free patterns!
In this free eBook, we’re going to teach you how
to work entrelac, and then supply you with a few
patterns that’ll really get you going!
We begin with an in-depth tutorial by Eunny Jang,
which shows you the basics of entrelac knitting
Cheers,
Kathleen Cubley
Editor, KnittingDaily.com
Contents
Entrelac: Knitting Block by Block by Eunny Jang............ PAGE 3
The Basic Entrelac Scarf by Lisa Shroyer.................................. PAGE 8
Felted Entrelac Key Fobs by Susan Pierce Lawrence.......... PAGE 13
Reservoir Mitts by Allyson Dykhuizen............................................. PAGE 16
Cochin Shrug by Eunny Jang.............................................................. PAGE 19
Curvy Squares Tee by Bonnie Paul................................................PAGE 25
Entrelac Socks by Eunny Jang........................................................... PAGE 30
ENTRELAC KNITTING: HOW TO
KNIT ENTRELAC PLUS 6 FREE
ENTRELAC KNITTING PATTERNS
A Knitting Daily eBook edited by
Kathleen Cubley
E D I T O R I A L S TA F F
EDITOR, KNITTING DAILY Kathleen Cubley
CREATIVE SERVICES
PRODUCTION DESIGNER Nichole Mulder and
Janice Tapia
PHOTOGRAPHY As noted
ILLUSTRATION Gayle Ford
Projects and information are for inspiration
and personal use only. Interweave Knits and
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©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.knittingdaily.com
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Entrelac Knitting: How to Knit Entrelac Plus 6 Free Entrelac Knitting Patterns
ENTRELAC
KNiTTiNg BLoCK By BLoCK
B Y
E U N N Y
J A N G
E
ntrelac is a knitting technique that produces a fabric with a woven appearance—tiers of tilting blocks appear to run over
and under each other. But the fabric is actually worked all in one piece as a series of interconnecting rectangles. Also called
patchwork knitting, basketweave knitting, or birch-bark patterning, entrelac can stand on its own in garter or stockinette
stitch, or it can provide an interesting framework for other texture or color-work techniques.
See the sock pattern on page 30.
WORKING ENTRELAC IN FLAT KNITTING
Basic principles
Entrelac fabric’s series of tilted blocks are worked one at a time
in tiers. Within a tier, blocks are worked in the same direction,
either right to left or left to right. Each tier of blocks builds
upon the one below it. Individual blocks are worked by picking
up stitches along the selvedge of a block from the tier below
and working stitches of the growing block together with live
stitches from the top edge of the next block below. To produce
a piece with straight rather than pointed edges across the bottom
and top, the first and last tiers must consist of rows of triangular
half-blocks. For straight vertical edges, every other tier of a flatworked entrelac piece begins and ends with a triangle.
Individual blocks may be worked over any number of
stitches, and a piece may have any number of individual blocks.
In all cases, each block contains twice as many rows as it does
stitches.
Though the basic entrelac technique has several variations,
the following method produces tidy results. When you practice
3
entrelac for the first time, try working every other tier of blocks
in a different color to emphasize the basketweave effect and
make it easier to identify the blocks and live stitches of each
tier. Note: When you work the first stitch of every row, you can
slip it for a tidy pick-up edge, but be aware that you will lose
some elasticity in the knitted piece.
Base triangles (RS facing to begin)
Cast on 24 sts (or use any multiple of 8, the number of sts in each
block in this sampler), using a loose cast-on such as the knitted
cast-on (see page 7).
Row 1: (RS) K2, turn.
Row 2: (WS) P2, turn.
Row 3: K3, turn.
Row 4: P3, turn.
Row 5: K4, turn.
Row 6: P4, turn.
Row 7: K5, turn.
Row 8: P5, turn.
Row 9: K6, turn.
Row 10: P6, turn.
Row 11: K7, turn.
Row 12: P7, turn.
Row 13: K8, do not turn. The first base triangle has been
completed.
With the RS still facing, the right selvedge edge of the just-worked
triangle forms the right side of the triangle, the 8 live sts on the
needle form the left side, and the cast-on row forms the base.
Repeat Rows 1–13 until all cast-on stitches have been worked.
If you began with 24 sts, there will be three 8-st triangles on the
needle (Figure 1). Note: All figures show knitting with needle
removed.
Figure 1
First tier of blocks (WS facing to begin)
Turn the work so the WS is facing. This tier and every other tier
of blocks begins and ends with a half-block, or side triangle, at
each edge to maintain a straight selvedge. The live sts from each
base triangle will be joined to the growing blocks of the new tier
by working the last st of the new block on WS rows together
with a live st from a block in the previous tier.
If you’re changing color on this row, purl the first st with both
strands of yarn to secure them, then snip the old color.
First side triangle
Row 2: (RS) K1, M1 (see page 7), k1, turn.
Row 3: P2, p2tog, turn.
Row 4: K2, M1, k1, turn.
Row 13: P7, k2tog, do not turn. The first side triangle has been
completed; leave the sts on the needle.
Continue row with blocks
*With WS still facing, pick up and purl 8 sts along the selvedge
of the triangle (or the block on subsequent tiers) now between
the needles, working from the tip to the base of the triangle.
Turn work so RS is facing.
Row 2: (WS) P7, p2tog, turn.
Rows 3–16: Rep Rows 1 and 2 seven more times but do not turn
work after completing Row 16. All live sts from the base triangle
have been decreased away. The first whole block of this tier has
been completed; leave the sts on the needle. If you started with
24 cast-on sts, repeat from * once more to complete the second
full block of this tier.
Second side triangle
With WS still facing, pick up and purl 8 sts along the selvedge
of the new block now between the needles, picking up from tip
to base of the triangle or block of the previous tier. Turn work
so RS is facing.
Row 3: K7, turn.
Row 5: K6, turn.
Row 7: K5, turn.
Row 9: K4, turn.
Row 11: K3, turn.
Row 13: K2, turn.
Row 14: P2tog, turn, and slip last st to the right needle. The
second side triangle has been completed: 25 sts total, two full
blocks of 8 sts each, one first side triangle of 8 sts, one second
side triangle of 1 st (Figure 2).
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Figure 2
Second tier of blocks (RS facing to begin)
This tier consists of all full blocks.
Block
*With RS facing and 1 st on the right needle, pick up and knit
7 sts along the selvedge now between the needles, picking up
from tip to base of the block from the previous row. Note: The
st remaining on the needle from the side triangle counts as your
first picked-up st, so you need to pick up and knit only 7 sts to
have 8 sts for working the first block. Pick up 8 sts for all the
remaining blocks. Turn work so WS is facing.
Row 2: (RS) K7, ssk (see page 7), turn.
Rows 3–16: Rep Rows 1 and 2 seven more times but do not
turn work after completing Row 16. All live sts from the block
of the previous tier have been decreased away. The first whole
block of this tier has been completed; leave the sts on the
needle. If you started with 24 cast-on sts, repeat from * twice
more to complete the second and third blocks for this tier—24
sts total, three full blocks of 8 sts each (Figure 3).
Repeat the previous two tiers as many times as desired and end
by completing the tier that begins and ends with side triangles.
needle from the previous triangle counts as your first picked-up
st, so you need to pick up and knit only 7 sts to have 8 sts for
working each top triangle. Turn work so WS is facing.
Row 2: (RS) Ssk, k5, ssk, turn.
Row 3: P7, turn.
Row 4: Ssk, k4, ssk, turn.
Row 5: P6, turn.
Row 7: P5, turn.
Row 9: P4, turn.
Row 11: P3, turn.
Row 12: Ssk, ssk, turn.
Row 13: P2, turn.
Row 14: K1, ssk, turn.
Row 15: P2, turn.
Row 16: Sl 1 as if to knit with yarn in back, ssk, pass slipped st
over, do not turn. The first top triangle has been completed; 1
st remains on the right needle. If you started with 24 cast-on
sts, repeat from * twice more to complete the second and third
top triangles—1 st remains. Cut yarn and pull through last st on
needle to fasten off (Figure 4).
Figure 4
Variation for continuing in straight stockinette
or other pattern stitch
Figure 3
Top triangles (RS facing to begin)
*With RS facing, pick up and knit 7 sts along the selvedge now
between the needles, picking up sts from tip to base of the blocks
from the previous tier. Note: As before, the st remaining on the
If you want to continue to knit straight up from your entrelac
section rather than ending it with the last row of top triangles as
above, work the last tier of triangles as follows to create a straight
horizontal line of live sts at the top of the entrelac section.
*With RS facing, pick up and knit 7 sts along the selvedge
now between the needles, picking up sts from tip to base of
the blocks from the previous tier. Note: Again, the st remaining on the needle from the previous triangle counts as your
first picked-up st, so you need to pick up and knit only 7 sts to
have 8 sts for working each top triangle. Work these triangles
using short-rows (see page 7) as indicated below, working each
wrapped st together with its wrap as you come to it. Turn work
5
so WS is facing.
Row 3: P7, wrap next st, turn.
Row 16: Ssk, do not turn. The first top triangle has been completed: 7 wrapped sts plus the last st are on the right needle. If you
started with 24 cast-on sts, repeat from * twice more—24 live sts
on needle. Work wraps together with sts on next row.
Because the entrelac blocks lie on the diagonal, the number of sts
along an edge of an entrelac piece doesn’t make an edge of the same
length as knitting. Therefore, you’ll need to increase sts on the following row to the number needed to produce a piece the same width
as the entrelac section.
WORKING ENTRELAC IN THE ROUND
Entrelac may also be worked as a continuous circular tube of
fabric. Although the result is a seamless tube, the tiers of blocks
are worked back and forth, just as in flat entrelac. However, no side
triangles are needed—instead, the first block of each row is started
in a different manner to join the round.
Begin by casting on a multiple of 8 sts that will fit around your
circular needle or double-pointed needles.
Base triangles (RS facing)
Work the same as for entrelac knitted flat. Do not turn at the end
of the last row. Prepare to join for working in the round with the
RS facing, being careful not to twist.
First tier of blocks in the round (RS facing to
begin, then WS facing)
First block
With RS facing, pick up and knit 8 sts along the selvedge now
between the needles, picking up from base to tip of the triangle
(Figure 5) (or the block on subsequent tiers) from the previous tier.
Turn work so WS is facing.
Rows 4–15: Rep Rows 2 and 3 six more times, but do not turn work
after completing Row 15. All sts from block of previous tier have
Begin picking up
stitches here to join
in the round.
Figure 5
been decreased away. Do not turn.
Remaining blocks
Work the blocks for the rest of this tier as for flat entrelac, picking
up sts from tip to base with the WS facing and omitting the second
side triangle. Do not turn at the end of the tier.
Second row of blocks (WS facing to begin, then
RS facing)
First block
With WS facing, pick up and purl 8 sts along the selvedge now
between the needles, picking up from base to tip of the block from
the previous tier. Turn work so RS is facing.
Row 1: (RS) K7, ssk, turn.
Rows 4–15: Rep Rows 2 and 3 six more times, but do not turn work
after completing Row 15. All sts from block of previous tier have
been decreased away. Work the blocks for the rest of this tier as
for flat entrelac, picking up sts with the RS facing. Do not turn at
the end of the row.
Repeat the last two tiers as many times as desired and end by completing a tier that began with WS facing (same as the second round
of blocks).
Top triangles
Work as for entrelac knitted flat, picking up for the first triangle as
for the first tier of blocks worked in the round.
To practice entrelac in the round, try knitting Eunny Jang's Entrelac
Socks on page 30.
EUNNY JANG knits, spins, sews and writes in Denver Colorado.
6
Raised (M1) Increases
Left Slant (M1L)
Figure 1
Figure 2
With left needle tip, lift strand between needles
from front to back (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop
through the back (Figure 2).
Right Slant (M1R)
Figure 1
Figure 2
from back to front (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop
through the front (Figure 2).
Illustrations by Gayle Ford
Short Rows: Wrapping a Stitch
Work to turn point, slip next stitch
purlwise to right needle. Bring yarn to
front (Figure 1). Slip same stitch back
to left needle (Figure 2). Turn work and
bring yarn in position for next stitch,
Figure 1
wrapping the stitch as you do so. Note:
Hide wraps in a knit stitch when right
side of piece is worked in a knit stitch.
Leave wrap if the purl stitch shows on
right side. Hide wraps as follows: Knit
Figure 2
stitch: On right side, work to just before
wrapped stitch. Insert right needle from front, under the wrap
from bottom up, and then into wrapped stitch as usual. Knit
them together, making sure new stitch comes out under wrap.
Purl stitch: On wrong side, work to just before wrapped stitch.
Insert right needle from back, under wrap from bottom up, and
put on left needle. Purl them together.
Knitted Cast-On
Place slipknot on left needle if there are no established stitches. *With right needle, knit into first
stitch (or slipknot) on left needle (Figure 1) and
place new stitch onto left needle (Figure 2). Repeat
from *, always knitting into last stitch made.
Figure 2
Figure 1
Figure 1
Figure 2
Ssk Decrease
Slip two stitches knitwise one at a time (Figure
1). Insert point of left needle into front of two
slipped stitches and knit them together through
back loops with right needle (Figure 2).
7
----------------------Entrelac Knitting: How to Knit Entrelac Plus 6 Free Entrelac Knitting Patterns
The Basic Entrelac Scarf
Design by Lisa Shroyer
FINISHED SIZE:
10" wide and 69" long.
YARN:
Noro Kochoran (50% wool, 30% angora, 20%
silk; 175 yd [160 m]/100 g): #53 orange/
green/turquoise, 3 skeins. Yarn distributed by
Knitting Fever.
NEEDLES:
Size 9 (5.5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary
to obtain the correct gauge.
NOTIONS:
Tapestry needle.
GAUGE:
Lisa Shroyer
15 sts and 19 rows = 4" in St st. Gauge is not
critical for this project.
SKILL LEVEL:
Intermediate.
If you're new to entrelac and need a basic pattern to get started, you're in luck! I just
started an easy scarf and thought it would make a great beginner entrelac project.
Enjoy!
8
BEGINNING SCARF:
Base Triangles:
Use the knitted method (see Glossary)
to CO 24 sts. You want a loose CO for
the beginning of the base triangles.
Row 1: (RS) K2, turn work around, leaving rem sts unworked.
Row 2: (WS) P2, turn work around.
Row 3: (RS) K3, turn work around.
Row 4: (WS) P3, turn work around.
Row 5: K4, turn.
Row 6: P4, turn.
Row 7: K5, turn.
Row 8: P5, turn.
Row 9: K6, turn.
Row 10: P6, turn.
Row 11: K7, turn.
Row 12: P7, turn.
Row 13: K8, do not turn—first base
triangle completed.
With RS still facing and 8 sts on right
needle, rep Row 1 across next 2 sts on
left needle. Work Rows 2-13—second
base triangle completed. With RS still
facing and 16 sts on right needle, work Row 1 across
next 2 sts on left needle. Work Rows 2-13 once more—
third base triangle completed; all 24 sts have been
worked.
Tier 1: (blocks with side triangles)
Turn work so WS is facing. You will start this tier with a
triangle, then work 2 full right-slanting blocks, then end
with another side triangle. When you work the p2tog’s
on WS rows, you will be joining the side triangle with
the sts of the base triangle below it.
Row 2: (RS) K1, M1 (see Glossary), k1, turn.
Row 4: (RS) K2, M1, k1, turn.
Lisa Shroyer
Notes
• This scarf is a great first entrelac project. You can
use any chunky-weight yarn, or even go down to a
worsted weight (for a narrower version).
• In this project, you will pick up stitches on both the
right and wrong sides. You may need to practice picking up and purling stitches if you’re not used to this
method.
• When picking up stitches, use a half stitch or one full
stitch selvedge. This means pick up your stitches
from the bar in the middle of the first stitch along the
selvedge, or in the trough between the first and second stitches along the selvedge. Keeping your pickup locations consistent throughout the pick-up and
throughout the project will ensure a neat look.
9
Row 13: P7, p2tog, do not turn—first side triangle completed; 8 sts on right needle.
With WS still facing, look at the base triangle now
attached to the completed side triangle. The right-hand
side of the base triangle is attached to the side triangle,
while the left-hand side of the base triangle is free. You
will now pick up sts along this left-hand edge of the
base triangle. With WS still facing, starting at the tip
of the base triangle and working down to the CO edge,
evenly pick up and purl 8 sts down the selvedge of the
base triangle (see Notes)—16 sts total on right needle
and 16 sts on left needle. In the block you’re about to
work, you will join the new picked-up sts with the sts
of the middle base triangle with p2tog’s, just as you
joined the side triangle to the first base triangle. Turn
work so RS is facing.
Odd Rows 1-15: (RS) K8, turn.
Even Rows 2-14: (WS) P7, p2tog, turn.
Row 16: (WS) P7, p2tog, do not turn—first block completed; 16 sts on right needle, 8 sts of last base triangle on left needle.
With WS still facing, look at the middle base triangle.
The first block is joined to the right-hand edge of the
base triangle, while the left-hand edge of the base
triangle is free. With WS still facing, starting at the tip
of the base triangle and working down to the CO edge,
evenly pick up and purl 8 sts down the selvedge of the
base triangle—24 sts total on right needle and 8 sts on
left needle. Turn work so RS is facing and work Rows
1-16 as for first block—second block completed; 24 sts
on right needle, no sts on left needle. It may look like
this tier is complete, but you still need to work a second
side triangle. With WS still facing, look at the last base
triangle on the left-hand side. The second block is
joined to its right-hand edge, while the left-hand edge
of the base triangle is free. With WS still facing, starting
at the tip of the base triangle and working down to
the CO edge, evenly pick up and purl 8 sts down the
selvedge of the base triangle—32 sts now on right
needle. Turn work so RS is facing.
Row 5: K6, turn.
Row 7: K5, turn.
Row 9: K4, turn.
Row 11: K3, turn.
Row 13: K2, turn.
Row 14: P2tog, turn so RS is facing, slip 1 st from left
needle to right needle—second side triangle completed; 25 sts total on needles.
Tier 2: (all blocks, no side triangles)
Tier 1 created right-slanting blocks; Tier 2 will create
left-slanting blocks (when viewed from the RS). With
RS still facing, look at the side triangle just completed.
Its left-hand edge is free. You will now pick up and knit
sts along this selvedge. With RS still facing and 1 st on
right needle, starting at tip of side triangle and working
downwards, pick up and knit 7 sts along the selvedge of
the side triangle—8 sts total on right needle (including
1 st rem from side triangle). Turn so WS is facing.
Odd Rows 1-15: (WS) P8, turn.
Even Rows 2-14: (RS) K7, ssk (see Glossary), turn.
Row 16: (RS) K7, ssk, do not turn—first block completed; 8 sts on right needle, 16 sts on left needle.
**With RS still facing, look at the block below your
needle tips, worked on Tier 1. The block you just
completed is joined to the top of this block, while the
left-hand edge of the block is free. You will now pick
up and knit sts along this selvedge. With RS still facing,
pick up and knit 8 sts along the block, from top to
bottom. Turn so WS is facing. Work Rows 1-16 as for first
block worked in Tier 2. Rep from ** for third block—24
sts on right needle; all sts have been worked; 3 leftslanting blocks.
10
BODY OF SCARF:
Turn so WS is facing. Rep Tier 1, picking up sts along
blocks instead of base triangles. Then Rep Tier 2. This
scarf alternates tiers of right-slanting blocks with side
triangles and tiers of left-slanting blocks with no side
triangles. As you work, you'll see that the side triangles
on every other tier are necessary to create flush edges
at either side of the scarf. If you did not work side
triangles, your scarf would have zigzag edges. Work
Tiers 1 and 2 until you reach 2" less than desired length
and have several yards of yarn left. Work Tier 1 once
more, to end with a tier with side triangles.
ENDING SCARF:
Top Triangles:
You must have ended with a Tier 1 to work the top
triangles. With RS still facing and 1 st on right needle,
pick up and knit 7 sts down the selvedge of the side
triangle just completed—8 sts on right needle. Turn so
WS is facing.
Row 5: P6, turn.
Row 7: P5, turn.
Row 9: P4, turn.
Row 11: P3, turn.
Row 12: Ssk, ssk, turn.
Row 13: P2, turn.
Row 15: P2, turn.
Row 16: Sl 1 kwise with yarn in back, ssk, pass slipped st
over st rem from ssk, do not turn—first top triangle
completed; 1 st rem on right needle; 17 sts total rem.
***With RS still facing and 1 st on right needle, pick up
and knit 7 sts down the selvedge of the block below the
needle tips. Turn so WS is facing. Work Rows 1-16 as for
first top triangle. Rep from *** for third top triangle—1
st rem. Break yarn and fasten off last st.
FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block as desired and as appropriate
for yarn. The scarf shown was not blocked. Blocking
entrelac, especially pinning and ironing it, will flatten
out its three-dimensional surface. Some people like the
smooth, flat look of blocked entrelac; others like the
puffed and quilted look of non-blocked entrelac. Decide
which look you like best before you block your scarf.
With time and wear, your scarf will naturally flatten out
a bit. -
LISA SHROYER is the editor of Interweave Knits magazine.
11
Glossary
Knitted Cast-On
Place slipknot on left needle if there are no
established stitches. *With right needle, knit into
first stitch (or slipknot) on left needle (Figure 1) and
Left Slant (M1L)
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 2
Figure 1
Figure 1
Ssk Decrease
Figure 1
Figure 2
Slip two stitches knitwise
one at a time (Figure 1).
Insert point of left needle
into front of two slipped
stitches and knit them
together through back
loops with right needle
(Figure 2).
Figure 2
Right Slant (M1R)
12
FELTED ENTRELAC
KEY FOBS
Susan Pierce Lawrence
13
Felted entrelac
Key Fobs
Susan Pierce Lawrence
Finished Size 10" circumference and 6" high,
before felting; 9" circumference and 4" high,
after felting.
Yarn Noro Kureyon (100% wool; 110 yd
[101 m]/50 g): about 1/2 skein makes a pouch.
Pouches shown in colorways #185, #220, and
#226. Yarn distributed by Knitting Fever.
Needles Size 101/2 (6.5 mm): set of 5 doublepointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary
to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Smooth, worsted-weight cotton
yarn; tapestry needle; bead with 4 mm center
hole; metal split ring/key ring, circular or with
lobster clasp.
Gauge 15 sts and 20 rows = 4" in St st, before
felting.
Pouch
CO 32 sts. Distribute sts evenly over 4 dpn.
Join in the rnd. Top edge:
Rnds 1 and 3: Purl.
Rnds 2, 4, and 6: Knit.
Rnd 5: *K2tog, yo, k2; rep from * to end.
Rnd 7: *K2, k2tog; rep from * to end—24 sts
rem; 6 sts each dpn.
Rnd 8: Knit.
Base triangles: Note: When working the
base triangles, do not pick up the wraps.
Row 1: (RS) K1, wrap next st, turn (see shortrows in Glossary).
Row 2: P1, turn.
Row 3: K2, wrap next st, turn.
Row 4: P2, turn.
Row 6: P3, turn.
Row 8: P4, turn.
Row 10: P5, turn.
Row 11: K6, do not turn.
Rep Rows 1–11 three more times—4 base
triangles.
Tier 1:
First block: With RS facing, pick up and knit
6 sts along the side of the first base triangle,
beg at the bottom of the triangle and working
to the tip. Turn.
Row 2: K6, turn.
Rows 4–11: Rep Rows 2 and 3 four more
times; do not turn work after completing Row
11.
2nd, 3rd, and 4th blocks: *With WS facing,
pick up and purl 6 sts along the side of the
closest base triangle, beg at the tip of the
triangle and working to the bottom. Turn.
Row 1: K6, turn.
Rows 3–12: Rep Rows 1 and 2 five more
12.
Rep from * 2 more times—four Tier 1 blocks.
Tier 2:
First block: With WS facing, pick up and purl
6 sts along the side of the closest Tier 1 block,
beg at the bottom of the rectangle and working up to the top. Turn.
Row 2: P6, turn.
Rows 4–11: Rep Rows 2 and 3 four more
11.
2nd, 3rd, and 4th blocks: *With RS facing,
pick up and knit 6 sts along the side of the
closest Tier 1 block, beg at the top of the
rectangle and working to the bottom. Turn.
Row 1: P6, turn.
Rows 3–12: Rep Rows 1 and 2 five more
12.
Rep from * 2 more times—four Tier 2 blocks.
Ending triangles:
First triangle: With RS facing, pick up and
knit 6 sts along the side of the closest Tier
2 block, beg at the base of the rectangle and
working to the top. Turn.
Row 11: P2tog, do not turn.
2nd, 3rd, and 4th triangles: *With WS
facing, pick up and purl 6 sts along the side
of the closest Tier 2 block, beg at the top of
These pouches are worked in entrelac
in the round. When working entrelac in
the round, no side triangles are worked,
making the technique quite different
than flat entrelac. For a complete tutorial on working entrelac in the round and
flat, download Eunny Jang’s Beyond the
Basics article at knittingdaily
.com/media/p/24512.aspx.
the rectangle and working to the bottom. P1,
turn.
Row 1: Ssk, k4, wrap next st, turn.
Row 10: P2tog, do not turn.
Rep from * 2 more times—4 ending triangles.
Bottom:
With WS facing, wrap next st, turn—24 sts.
With RS facing, beg working in the rnd again.
Rnd 1: (RS) Knit, working wraps tog with
wrapped sts.
Rnd 2: *K2, k1f&b; rep from * to end—
32 sts.
Rnds 3, 4, 6, and 8: Knit.
rem.
rem.
Rnd 9: *K2tog; rep from * to end—8 sts rem.
Break yarn, leaving an 8" tail. Thread tail onto
tapestry needle and draw through rem sts.
Pull tight to gather sts and fasten off on WS.
FiNiShiNG
Felting: Thread a strand of cotton yarn
through the eyelets at the top of the pouch.
Tie the ends of the cotton yarn tog but do
not cinch the top of the pouch. Place pouch
in a zippered pillowcase and then place the
pillowcase in a washing machine with a clean
pair of jeans. Use the machine’s lowest and
hottest water setting and a small amount of
mild detergent. Rep the agitation cycle until
individual sts are no longer visible. Because
this is a small project, it may be necessary to
run the agitation cycle several times before
the pouch is fully felted. Remove the pouch
from the washing machine and rinse it in
cold water. Place it over an appropriately
shaped object and allow it to dry completely.
14
Drawstring: Holding two strands of yarn
tog, make a twisted cord (see Glossary) about
24" long. Fold the drawstring in half. Pull
the folded end through the bead, then attach
the folded end to the key ring using a lark’s
head knot (see below). Remove the cotton
yarn and thread the ends of the drawstring
through the eyelet holes (each end through
four eyelets). Tie the loose ends of the drawstring tog using a secure, decorative knot
such as a lanyard knot.
Susan Pierce Lawrence lives and knits in the
shadow of Utah’s beautiful Wasatch Mountains. Find more of her work at www.
knittingasfastasican.com.
short-rows: Wrapping a stitch
Work to turn point, slip next stitch purlwise to right needle. Bring
yarn to front (Figure 1). Slip same stitch back to left needle (Figure
2). Turn work and bring yarn in position for next stitch, wrapping
the stitch as you do so. Note: Hide wraps in a knit stitch when right
side of piece is worked in a knit stitch. Leave wrap if the purl stitch
shows on right side. Hide wraps as follows: Knit stitch: On right side,
work to just before wrapped stitch. Insert right needle from front,
under the wrap from bottom up, and then into wrapped stitch as
usual. Knit them together, making sure new stitch comes out under
wrap. Purl stitch: On wrong side, work to just before wrapped stitch.
Insert right needle from back, under wrap from bottom up, and put
on left needle. Purl them together.
Lark’S hEaD kNoT
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 1
Figure 2
Twisted Cord
Cut several lengths of yarn about five times the desired
finished cord length. Fold the strands in half to form two
equal groups. Anchor the strands at the fold by looping
them over a doorknob. Holding one group in each hand,
twist each group tightly in a clockwise direction until they
begin to kink. Put both groups in one hand, then release
Figure 1 Figure 2 them, allowing them to twist around each other counterclockwise. Smooth out the twists so that they are uniform
along the length of the cord. Knot the ends.
I N T E R W E A V E
K NITS
Discover knitwear designs that will
capture your imagination.
You don’t have to be a designer or a knitting pro to make
beautiful knitted garments and accessories, and you don’t
have to hunt all over for inspiring designs.
From cover to cover, Interweave Knits magazine gives you
great projects, from the beginner to the advanced. Every
issue is packed full of captivating smart designs, step-by-step
instructions, easy-to-understand illustrations, plus wellwritten, lively articles sure to inspire.
interweaveknits.com
15
✿
❤ ❤
✿
✿
✿
❤
❤✿
❤
❤✿
✿
✿
✿
✿
Reservoir
Mitts
✿
✿
❤✿
✿ ❤❤
A ll y s o n D y k h ui z e n
in te rmedi ate:
I’m f eel i ng pretty confident
L o r n a’s L ac e s S he p he rd S o c k
Size 7" hand circumference and 71/2" long
Yarn Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock
Tier 1 (base triangles):
Triangle 1:
Row 1 (RS) K2, turn.
Row 2 (WS) P2, turn.
Row 3 Sl 1, k2, turn.
Row 4 P3, turn.
Row 5 Sl 1, k3, do not turn.
Triangles 2–4: Work as for triangle 1—16 sts
total: four 4-st triangles.
Tier 2:
Side triangle 1:
Row 2 (RS) K1, k1f&b, turn.
Row 3 Sl 1, p1, p2tog, turn.
Row 4 K2, k1f&b, turn.
Row 5 Sl 1, p2, p2tog, do not turn.
Square 1: With WS facing, pick up and purl 4
sts along sl sts between needles, turn.
Row 2 (WS) Sl 1, p2, p2tog, turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 three more times; do not
turn at end of last row. Squares 2 and 3:
Work as for square 1. Side triangle 2: With
WS facing, pick up and purl 4 sts along rem
selvedge edge, turn.
Row 2 (WS) Sl 1, p1, p2tog, turn.
Row 3 K3, turn.
Row 4 Sl 1, p2tog, turn.
Row 5 K2, turn.
Row 6 P2tog, turn, sl last st to right needle—17
sts total: 4 sts of side triangle 1, three 4-st
squares, 1 st of side triangle 2.
Tier 3: With RS facing and 1 st on right
needle, pick up and knit 3 sts along selvedge
between needles, turn—4 sts total. Square 1:
Row 2 (RS) Sl 1, k2, ssk, turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 three more times; do not
turn at end of last row. Squares 2–4: With RS
facing, pick up and knit 4 sts along selvedge
edge between needles, turn. Work as for
square 1—16 sts total: four 4-st squares.
Tiers 4–16: Rep tiers 2 and 3 six more times,
then work tier 2 once more.
Tier 17: (top triangles)
Top triangle 1: With RS facing and 1 st on
right needle, pick up and knit 3 sts along
selvedge between needles, turn—4 sts total.
Row 2 (RS) Ssk, k1, ssk, turn.
Row 3 P3, turn.
Row 4 [Ssk] 2 times, turn.
Row 5 P2, turn.
Row 6 K1, ssk, turn.
Row 7 P2, turn.
Row 8 Sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso—1 st rem.
Top triangles 2–4: Work as for top triangle
1—1 st rem. Fasten off last st.
Right Mitt
Palm: With MC and RS facing, beg at CO edge
of back of hand and skipping first 3 triangles
along right side edge, pick up and knit 6 sts
along each of next 5 side triangles, ending at
top edge of panel—30 sts total.
(80% superwash merino wool, 20% nylon;
430 yd [393 m]/100 g):
• #23ns berry (MC), 1 skein
• #70 Vera (CC), 1 skein
Gauge 28 sts and 40 rows = 4" in St st
Tools
• Size 2 (2.75 mm): set of double-pointed
needles (dpn)
• Markers (m)
• Waste yarn
• Yarn needle
Notes
Mitts begin with an entrelac panel rhat forms
the back of the hand. Stitches are picked up
from this panel for the palm, wrist ribbing,
fingers, and thumb.
Stitches
Seed Stitch: (even number of sts)
Row 1 *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 2 *P1, k1; rep from * to end.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.
Back of Hand (Make 2)
With CC, loosely CO 16 sts.
©F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use.
16
Row 1 (WS) Sl 1 pwise with yarn in front (wyf),
purl to end.
Row 2 (RS) Sl 1 kwise with yarn in back (wyb),
knit to end.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 3"
from pick-up row. BO all sts. Rib: With MC
and RS facing, beg at first picked-up st for
palm, pick up and knit 17 sts along selvedge
edge of palm. Next row (WS) [P2, p1f&b] 5
times, p2—22 sts. Work in k1, p1 rib until
piece reaches CO edge of back of hand (about
21/4"), ending with a WS row. With RS facing,
BO all sts. Sew selvedge edge of rib and BO
edge of palm to side edge of entrelac panel for
3". Beg at top edge of entrelac panel, sew BO
edge of palm to side edge of entrelac panel for
11/2"; 2" rem open along BO edge of palm for
thumb. Sew rem selvedge edge of rib to side
edge of entrelac panel. Top of hand: With
MC and RS facing, pick up and knit 16 sts
along selvedge edge of palm, then 30 sts
along top of back of hand—46 sts total. Join
in the rnd. Pinkie finger: K23, place next 36
sts onto waste yarn holder (passing beg of
rnd)—10 sts rem for pinkie. Using the
backward-loop method, CO 2 sts—12 sts
total. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd.
Work in St st until piece measures 1". Loosely
BO all sts. Place 36 held sts onto dpn. Pick up
and knit 3 sts at base of pinkie—39 sts total.
Pm and join in the rnd. Work 2 rnds in St st.
Ring finger: K7, place next 24 sts onto waste
yarn holder, k8—15 sts rem for ring finger. Pm
and join in the rnd. Work in St st until piece
measures 1". Loosely BO all sts. Middle
finger: Place first 7 held sts and last 5 held
sts onto dpn—12 sts for middle finger. Pick up
and knit 3 sts at base of ring finger—15 sts.
Pm and join in the rnd. Finish as for ring
finger. Index finger: K12 from holder, then
pick up and knit 3 sts at base of middle
finger—15 sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Finish
as for ring finger. Thumb: With RS facing and
MC, pick up and knit 30 sts around thumb
opening. Pm and join in the rnd. Knit 2 rnds.
Next rnd [K2, k2tog] 7 times, k2—23 sts rem.
Work in St st until piece measures 2" from
pick-up rnd. Loosely BO all sts. Wristband:
With MC and RS facing, beg just below palm
on opposite side from thumb, pick up and knit
6 sts along seam between rib and back of
hand. Work in seed st (see Stitches) until
piece measures 33/4". BO all sts. Position strap
over back of hand and sew to opposite seam.
With MC and RS facing, pick up and knit 16
sts along selvedge edge of palm, then 30 sts
along top of back of hand—46 sts total. Join
in the rnd. Pinkie finger: K3, place next
36 sts onto waste yarn holder, CO 2 sts,
k7—12 sts total. Pm and join in the rnd. Work
in St st until piece measures 1". Loosely BO
all sts. Place 36 held sts onto dpn. Pick up and
knit 3 sts at base of pinkie—39 sts total. Pm
and join in the rnd. Work 2 rnds in St st. Ring
finger: K5, place next 24 sts onto waste yarn
holder, k10—15 sts rem for ring finger. Pm and
join in the rnd. Work in St st until piece
measures 1". Loosely BO all sts. Middle
finger: Place first 5 held sts and last 7 held
sts onto dpn—12 sts for middle finger. Pick up
and knit 3 sts at base of ring finger—15 sts.
Pm and join in the rnd. Finish as for ring
finger. Index finger and thumb: Work as for
right mitt. Wristband: Work as for right mitt,
picking up sts just below palm on same side
as thumb.
Left Mitt
F inishing
Palm: With MC and RS facing, beg at top
edge of back of hand and working along left
side edge, pick up and knit 6 sts along each of
first 5 side triangles—30 sts total. Work as for
right mitt. Rib: With MC and RS facing, beg
at BO edge of palm, pick up and knit 17 sts
along selvedge edge of palm. Work rib and
sew seams as for right mitt. Top of hand:
Weave in ends. Block mitts lightly to smooth
out entrelac. ❤
Allyson Dykhuizen can be found online at
www.thesweatshopoflove.com.
I N T E R W E A V E
K NITS
You don’t have to be a designer or a knitting pro to make
beautiful knitted garments and accessories, and you don’t
have to hunt all over for inspiring designs.
From cover to cover, Interweave Knits magazine gives you
great projects, from the beginner to the advanced. Every
issue is packed full of captivating smart designs, step-by-step
instructions, easy-to-understand illustrations, plus wellwritten, lively articles sure to inspire.
interweaveknits.com
17
● ssk
Knit into next stitch and leave it on the needle; then knit through
the back loop of the same stitch—one stitch increased to two.
Slip two stitches individually knitwise (1). Insert tip of left
needle into front of these two slipped stitches and use right
needle to knit them together through their back loops (2).
(Some knitters like to slip the second stitch purlwise to make
a more prominent decrease line.)
● k1f&b increase
2
1
AbbreviAtions
beg
bet
BO
CC
cm
cn
CO
cont
dec(s)
dpn
foll
g
inc
k
k1f&b
beginning; begin; begins
between
bind off
contrasting color
centimeter(s)
cable needle
cast on
continue(s); continuing
decrease(s); decreasing
double-pointed needle(s)
following; follows
gram(s)
increase(s); increasing
knit
knit into front and back of
same st
k2tog
knit two stitches together
kwise
knitwise
LC
left cross
m(s)
marker(s)
MC
main color
mm
millimeter(s)
M1
make one (increase)
M1R (L) make one right (left)
p
p1f&b
purl
purl into front and back of
same st
p2tog
purl two stitches together
patt(s) pattern(s)
pm
place marker
psso
pass slipped stitch over
p2sso
pass two slipped stitches
over
pwise
purlwise
RC
right cross
rem
remain(s); remaining
rep
repeat; repeating
rev St st reverse stockinette stitch
rib
ribbing
rnd(s)
round(s)
RS
right side
rev sc
reverse single crochet
sc
single crochet
sk
skip
sl
slip
sl st
slip stitch (sl 1 st pwise
unless otherwise indicated)
ssk
ssp
st(s)
St st
tbl
tog
WS
wyb
wyf
yo
*
**
()
[]
slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise,
k2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease)
slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, p2
sl sts tog tbl (decrease)
stitch(es)
stockinette stitch
through back loop
together
wrong side
with yarn in back
with yarn in front
yarn over
repeat starting point
(i.e., repeat from *)
repeat all instructions
between asterisks
alternate measurements
and/or instructions
instructions that are to be
worked as a group a
specified number of times
Right Mitt
Left Mitt
fingers
fingers
palm
palm
thumb
thumb
rib
rib
TM
publishers of Interweave Knits magazine…join the online knitting community at KnittingDaily.com
18
pattern
cochin
shrug
by Eunny Jang
Worked from side to side, this shrug grows by increasing the size of
the entrelac units from the cast-on to the center, where stitches are
bound off for one front side. Stitches are cast on for the other front
side, and the entrelac units are decreased to the original stitch count.
The finished shrug resembles a paper lantern or a globe hinged at the
equator.
Finished Size
33 (37, 41)" (84 [94, 104] cm). Sample
shown measures 33" (84 cm).
Yarn
DK weight (Light #3). Shown here: Rowan
Felted Tweed (50% merino, 25% alpaca,
25% viscose; 191 yd [175 m]/50 g): 3 (4,
4) balls. Yarn distributed by Westminster
Fibers.
Needles
Size 5 (3.75 mm): 24" (60 cm) circular (cir)
and set of double-pointed needles (dpn).
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain
the correct gauge.
Notions
Markers (m); scrap yarn for stitch holders.
Gauge
22 sts and 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in St st.
Notes
—This shrug is worked from armhole
to armhole using the circular entrelac
technique.
—The shrug consists of two mirrored sides
which are joined by a tier at center back.
—The rectangles in each tier are one stitch
larger (or smaller) than the previous tier.
—Change from double-pointed needles
to a circular needle when necessary to
accommodate the growing number of
stitches.
19
Knitting: How to Knit Entrelac Plus 6 Free Entrelac Knitting Patterns
Side A
E
Armhole
C
F
right
front
L
D
Tier 1
left
front
F
With dpns, CO 88 (96, 104) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Knit 5 rnds.
dec rnd: *P2tog; rep from * around—44 (48,
52) sts rem.
page 3 of 7
L
by Eunny Jang
Entrelac
L
cochin
shrug
F
pattern
Tier 1
Make 11 (12, 13) 4-st Base Triangles as foll:
Triangles 3–11 (12, 13):
Work as for Triangle 2.
Tier 2
Make 11 (12, 13) 5-st Rectangles as foll:
Tier 2
F
Row 2: Sl 1, k4, ssk (last st of rectangle and
first st of rectangle from previous tier),
turn.
Tier 3
Rep Rows 1 and 2 four more times.
Next row: Sl 1, k5, do not turn.
Rectangle 2:
With RS still facing, pick up and knit 6 sts
along next rectangle, turn. Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1.
L
F
Row 1: Sl 1, p5, turn.
Next row: (WS) Sl 1, p5, turn.
L
A
Construction Diagram
F
Triangle 2:
Work Rows 2–7 as for Triangle 1.
B
L
Triangle 1:
Row 1: (RS) Sl 1, k1, turn.
Row 2: P2, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, k2, turn.
Row 4: P3, turn.
Row 6: P4, turn.
Row 7: Sl 1, k3; do not turn.
Direction of knitting
F
First block
L
Last block
Tier 5
Rectangle 1:
With RS facing, pick up and knit 5 sts along
first base triangle from Tier 1, turn.
Set-up row: (WS) Sl 1, p4, turn.
Rectangles 3–11 (12, 13):
Work as for Rectangle 2.
Tier 4
Rectangle 1:
With WS facing, pick up and purl 8 sts along
next rectangle, turn.
Set-up row: (RS) Sl 1, k7, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, p3, p2tog (last st of rectangle
and first st of base triangle), turn.
Rectangle 1:
turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 three more times.
Next row: (RS) Sl 1, k4, turn.
Next row: Sl 1, p4, do not turn.
Rectangle 2:
With WS still facing, pick up and purl 5 sts
along edge of next base triangle, turn. Work
as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1.
Tier 3
Rectangle 1:
and first st of rectangle from previous
tier), turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 five more times.
Rectangle 2:
along next rectangle, turn.
Work as for Rectangle 1, beg with Row 1.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 six more times.
Rectangle 2:
Tier 6
Make 11 (12, 13) 9-st Rectangles.
Rectangle 1:
20
pattern
cochin
shrug
by Eunny Jang
page 4 of 7
CeNTeR TieR—All SizeS
Rectangle 2:
Make 7 (8, 9) triangles and 4 rectangles of 12
(13, 14) sts each as foll:
Triangle 1:
With WS facing, pick up and purl 12 (14) sts
Set-up row: (RS) Sl 1, k11 (13), turn.
tier), turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 seven more times.
Rectangle 2:
Tier 7
Rectangle 1:
With WS facing, pick up and purl 10 sts
Tier 9— Sizes 37 (41)"
(94 [104] cm) only
Make 12 (13) 12-st Rectangles as foll:
Rectangle 1:
With WS facing, pick up and purl 12 sts
Tier 8
Make 11 (12, 13) 11-st Rectangles as foll.
Rectangle 1:
Rectangles 3–12 (13):
Tier 10—Size 41" (104 cm) only
Make 13 13-st Rectangles as foll:
Rectangle 1:
tier), turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 eleven more times.
tier), turn.
Rectangle 2:
Rep Rows 1 and 2 nine more times.
Row 4: Sl 1, k9 (11), ssk, turn.
Triangle 2:
With RS still facing, pick up and knit 12 (14)
sts along next rectangle, turn.
Beg with Row 1, work as for Triangle 1.
Rectangle 2:
Rectangle 2:
Row 3: Sl 1, p10 (12), turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 ten more times.
turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, k10 (12), ssk (last st of triangle
tier), turn.
Cont in patt, working 1 fewer knit st before
ssk on every RS row until all sts from rectangle have been dec’d away; do not turn.
Row 1: Sl 1, p11 (13), turn.
turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 eight more times.
Sizes 33 (41)" (84 [104] cm) only
Rectangles 3–13:
Triangles 3–7 (9):
Rectangle 1:
With RS still facing, pick up and knit 12 (14)
sts along next rectangle, turn.
Row 1: (WS) Sl 1, p11 (13), turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, k10 (12), ssk (last st of rectangle
tier), turn.
Rep last 2 rows 10 (12) more times.
Next row: (WS) Sl 1, p11 (13), turn.
Next row: Sl 1, k11 (13), do not turn.
Rectangles 2–4:
Place sts from 7 (9) triangles on a holder—48 (56) sts rem.
Using the provisional method (see Glossary), CO 84 (126) sts—132 (182) sts.
Next row: (WS) P84 (126), turn.
Triangle 1:
Row 1: (RS): Sl 1, k1, turn.
Row 2: P2, turn.
Row 4: P3, turn.
Cont in patt, adding 1 st to triangle every RS
21
pattern
cochin
shrugEntrelac Knitting: How to Knit Entrelac Plus 6 Free Entrelac Knitting Patterns
by Eunny Jang
page 5 of 7
row until 12 (14) sts have been worked, do
not turn.
Triangles 2–7 (9):
Work as for Triangle 1, ending with a RS row,
do not turn.
Pm for new beg of rnd.
Size 37" (94 cm) only
Triangle 1:
edge of next rectangle, turn.
and first st of rectangle from previous tier),
turn.
turn.
Row 4: K3, turn.
Cont in patt, working 1 less purl st before
p2tog every WS row until all sts from rectangle have been dec’d away, do not turn.
Cont in patt, adding 1 st to triangle every WS
row until 13 sts have been worked, ending
with a WS row, do not turn.
Triangles 2–8:
Beg with Row 1, work as for Triangle 1, do
not turn.
Triangles 2–8:
Pm for new beg of rnd.
Rectangle 1:
turn.
Rectangles 2–4:
Place sts from 8 triangles on a holder—52 sts
rem.
Using the provisional method, CO 104
sts—156 sts.
Next row: (RS) K104, turn.
Triangle 1:
Row 1: (WS): Sl 1, p1, turn.
Row 2: K2, turn.
Side B—All SizeS
Tier 10—Size 41" (104 cm) only
Make 13 13-st Rectangles as foll:
Rectangle 1:
and first st of triangle or rectangle from
previous tier), turn.
Next row: Sl 1, p11, p3tog (last st of rectangle
and 2 rem sts of triangle or rectangle from
previous tier), do not turn.
Tier 9—Sizes 37 (41)"
(94 [104] cm) only
Make 12 (13) 12-st Rectangles as foll:
Rectangle 1:
first st of triangle or rectangle from previous tier), turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 ten more times.
Next row: Sl 1, k10, sssk (last st of rectangle
and 2 rem sts of triangle or rectangle from
previous tier), do not turn.
Rectangle 2:
along next triangle or rectangle, turn.
Rectangles 3–12 (13):
Tier 8—All sizes
Rectangle 2:
Rectangles 3–13:
Rectangle 1: With RS facing, pick up and knit
11 sts along next rectangle, turn.
22
pattern
cochin
shrug
by Eunny Jang
and first st of triangle or rectangle from
previous tier), turn.
and 2 rem sts of rectangle from previous
tier), do not turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 nine more times.
Rectangle 2:
and 2 rem sts of triangle or rectangle
from previous tier), do not turn.
Rectangle 2:
Tier 7
Tier 3
Rectangle 1:
turn.
Rectangle 1:
turn.
turn.
tier), do not turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 eight more times.
Rectangle 2:
Rectangle 2:
Tier 5
tier), do not turn.
Rectangle 1:
page 6 of 7
Rep Rows 1 and 2 six more times.
Tier 4
Rep Rows 1 and 2 four more times.
tier), do not turn.
Rectangle 2:
Tier 2
Rectangle 1:
Rectangle 1:
Make 11 (12, 13) 9-st Rectangles.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 three more times.
Rectangle 1:
tier), turn.
tier), turn.
tier), do not turn.
Rectangle 2:
Rep Rows 1 and 2 seven more times.
Rectangle 2:
Tier 6
Rep Rows 1 and 2 five more times.
tier), turn.
tier), do not turn.
23
pattern
cochin
shrug
by Eunny Jang
Entrelac
Knitting: How to Knit Entrelac Plus 6 Free Entrelac Knitting Patterns
page 7 of 7
Tier 1
Make 11 (12, 13) 4-st Triangles as foll:
Triangle 1:
FiNiShiNG
Row 6: Sl 1, sssk (last st of rectangle and 2 rem
sts of rectangle from previous tier), turn.
Remove waste yarn from provisional CO
and place 84 (104, 126) sts on cir needle,
then place 84 (104, 126) sts from holder on
needle—168 (208, 252) sts.
Next rnd: (RS) *[P1, M1P (see Glossary)] 84
(104, 126) times, pick up and purl 1 st at
gap between right and left sides; rep from
* once—338 (418, 506) sts. Pm and join in
the rnd.
Triangle 2:
Work as for Triangle 1, beg with Row 1.
Row 2: Sl 1, k2, ssk (last st of triangle and
turn.
Triangles 3–11 (12, 13):
Armhole
Row 4: Sl 1, k1, sssk (last st of triangle and
first 2 sts of rectangle from previous tier),
turn.
Next row: (RS) *P1, M1; rep from * to end—
88 (96, 104) sts.
Knit 5 rnds.
BO all sts loosely.
glossary
EUNNY JANG knits, spins, sews, and writes
in Denver, Colorado.
Make 1 Purlwise (M1P)
With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front
(figure 1). Purl lifted loop (figure 2).
Invisible Provisional
Cast-on
Place a loose slipknot on needle
held in your right hand. Hold waste
yarn next to slipknot and around
left thumb; hold working yarn over
left index finger. *Bring needle forward under waste yarn, over working yarn, grab a loop of working
yarn (figure 1), then bring needle
to the front, over both yarns, and
grab a second loop (figure 2).
Repeat from *. When you’re ready
to work in the opposite direction,
pick out waste yarn to expose live
stitches.
Knit 5 rnds.
BO all sts loosely.
figure 1
figure 1
figure 2
figure 2
24
CURV Y
SQUARES
TEE
Bonnie Paul
25
Curv y SquareS
tee
Bonnie Paul
Finished Size 311⁄2 (35, 39, 43, 461⁄2, 501⁄2)" bust circumference, slightly
stretched. Sweater shown measures 35".
Yarn Plymouth Yarn Mushishi (95% wool, 5% silk; 491 yd [449 m]/250
g): #10 purple/olive, 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4) skeins.
Needles Size 8 (5 mm): 24" circular (cir). Adjust needle size if neces-
sary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Stitch holders; tapestry needle.
Gauge 16 sts and 20 rows = 4" in St st.
NoteS
is knit from the top down in one piece as entrelac in-the-round.
• Sweater
For more details about this technique, download Eunny Jang’s tutorial
•
•
•
•
at knittingdaily
.com/media/p/24512.aspx.
In entrelac, the edges are often slipped on the joining edge. In this
design, we work all edge stitches, which yields better stretch in the
fabric.
When picking up stitches, there will be fewer holes in the fabric if
you pick up stitches as close to the corner as possible.
Change skeins/colors at the beginning of a square/triangle to avoid
abrupt color changes in the middle of the square/triangle.
After each square is finished, place stitches on holder. Transfer
stitches back to left needle as they are needed.
Upper BodY
With the invisible provisional method (see Glossary), CO 70 (80, 90,
100, 110, 120) sts loosely. Do not join. Note: This CO edge becomes
the long (bias) edge of the first row of triangles and will need to stretch
quite a bit. Since it is a provisional CO and you will replace it later, it’s
better to err slightly on the side of too loose, rather than too tight.
Also, using waste yarn in a contrasting color (but similar gauge) will
make it easier to identify and remove provisional sts when you are
finishing.
Neck-edge triangles: (10 triangles of 7 [8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts each)
triangle 1:
Row 2 and all RS rows: Knit to end of triangle, turn.
Row 3: P3, turn.
Row 5: P4, turn.
Cont in patt, adding 1 st to triangle every WS row until 7 (8, 9, 10, 11,
12) sts have been worked. Next row: (RS) Knit to end of triangle, turn.
Next row: P7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12); do not turn. Place sts on holder.
triangles 2–10:
Work as for Triangle 1. On last triangle, do not place sts on holder. Join
triangles at CO edge to form circle (being careful to not twist sts) on
first tier as foll (Note: Change direction of knitting at each new tier of
squares or triangles throughout):
First tier: (10 squares of 8 [9, 10, 11, 12, 13] sts each)
Square 1: (WS) Pick up and purl 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts along edge of first
triangle.
Row 1: (RS) K7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) sts, ssk (last st of square and first st of
triangle), turn.
Row 2: Purl to end of square, turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until all sts of triangle have been worked, ending
with a RS row. Do not turn. Place sts on holder.
Square 2: (RS) *Pick up and knit 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts along edge of
next triangle, turn.
Row 1: (WS) Purl to end of square, turn.
Row 2: K7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12), ssk (last st of square and first st of
triangle), turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until all sts of triangle have been worked. Do not
turn. Place sts on holder. Rep from * for Squares 3–10. On last square,
do not place sts on holder.
2nd tier: (10 squares of 9 [10, 11, 12, 13, 14] sts each)
Square 1: (RS) Pick up and knit 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts along edge of
first square from previous tier.
Row 1: (WS) P8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13), p2tog (last st of square and first st
of square from previous tier), turn.
Row 2: Knit to end of square, turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until all sts of square from previous tier have been
worked, ending with a WS row. Do not turn. Place sts on holder.
Square 2: (WS) *Pick up and purl 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts along edge
of square from previous tier.
Row 1: (RS) Knit to end of square, turn.
Row 2: P8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13), p2tog (last st of square and first st of
square from previous tier), turn.
worked. Do not turn. Place sts on holder. Rep from * for Squares 3–10.
On last square, do not place sts on holder.
3rd tier: (10 squares of 10 [11, 12, 13, 14, 15] sts each)
Square 1: (WS) Pick up and purl 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15) sts along edge
of first square from previous tier.
Row 1: (RS) K9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14), ssk (last st of square and first st of
Row 2: Purl to end of square, turn.
worked, ending with a RS row. Do not turn. Place sts on holder.
Square 2: (RS) *Pick up and knit 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15) sts along edge
of square from previous tier.
Row 1: (WS) Purl to end of square, turn.
Row 2: K9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14), ssk (last st of square and first st of
worked. Do not turn. Place sts on holder. Rep from * for Squares 3–10.
On last square, do not place sts on holder.
4th tier and triangles for sleeves:
On this row, you will be ending cap sleeves with triangles and adding
underarm triangles.
Square 1: (RS) Pick up and knit 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts along edge of
26
first square from previous tier.
Row 1: (WS) P8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13), p2tog (last st
of square and first st of square from previous tier),
turn.
Row 2: Knit to end of square, turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until all sts of square from previous row have been worked, ending with a WS tier.
Do not turn. Place sts on holder.
Sleeve triangle 1:
(WS) Pick up and purl 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts along
edge of next square from previous tier.
Row 1: (RS) Knit to end of triangle, turn.
Row 2: Purl to last st of triangle, p2tog (last st of
triangle and first st of square from previous tier),
turn.
Row 3: Rep Row 1.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Row 5: Knit to last 2 sts, ssk, turn.
Rep Rows 4 and 5 until 2 sts rem. P2tog; do not
turn.
Sleeve triangle 2: Pick up and purl 8 (9, 10, 11, 12,
13) sts. Work as for Triangle 1.
Square 2: Pick up and purl 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts. Work as for Square
2 of 2nd tier.
Squares 3 and 4: Pick up and purl 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts. Work as
Square 2.
Sleeve triangles 3 and 4: Work as for Sleeve Triangles 1 and 2.
Squares 5 and 6: Work as for Squares 2 and 3. On last square, do not
place sts on holder.
6th tier:
Square 1: Pick up and knit 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts. Work as for 2nd
tier.
7th tier:
Square 1: Pick up and purl 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts. Work as for 3rd tier.
8th tier:
tier.
9th tier:
Square 1: Pick up and purl 7 (8, 10, 12, 13, 15) sts. Work as for 3rd
UNderarm triaNGleS (make 2, oNe For each UNderarm)
tier.
*With a new skein of yarn and the provisional method, CO 9 (10, 11,
12, 13, 14) sts loosely. Make a triangle as for beginning neck triangles
as foll:
10th tier:
triangle 1:
Row 2 and all RS rows: Knit to end of triangle, turn.
Row 3: P3, turn.
Row 5: P4, turn.
Sizes 311⁄2 (35, 39, 43, 461⁄2)" only:
11th tier:
Square 1: Pick up and purl 8 (10, 11, 13, 15) sts. Work as for 3rd tier.
Sizes 311⁄2 (35, 39, 43)" only:
12th tier:
Square 1: Pick up and knit 9 (10, 12, 13) sts. Work as for 2nd tier.
Sizes 311⁄2 (35, 39)" only:
13th tier:
Square 1: Pick up and purl 9 (10, 12) sts. Work as for 3rd tier.
Size 311⁄2" only:
14th tier:
Square 1: Pick up and knit 9 sts. Work as for 2nd tier.
Cont in patt, adding 1 st to triangle every WS row until 9 (10, 11, 12,
13, 14) sts have been worked. Next row: Knit to end of triangle, turn.
Next row: P9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14), do not turn. Place sts on holder.
Fasten off. Rep from * for opposite underarm triangle. Attach to outside corners of cap sleeve triangles as shown (see Underarm Triangle
Placement Guide). This will provide continuity when you cont the body
in the next tier of squares.
BodY
Cont in rnds and shape body as foll:
5th tier: (8 squares)
Square 1: Pick up and purl 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts. Work as for 3rd
tier.
tier.
eNd triaNGleS
Sizes 35 (39, 461⁄2)" only: Pick up and knit 10 (12, 15) sts along edge
triangle 1:
Row 1: (WS) Purl to last st of triangle, p2tog (last st of triangle and
27
first st of square from previous tier), turn.
Row 2: Knit to end of triangle, turn.
Row 3: Rep Row 1.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 until 3 sts rem. P3tog; do not turn.
triangle 2: (WS) *Pick up and purl 9 (11, 14) sts along next square
from previous tier.
Row 1: (RS) Knit to end of triangle, turn.
Row 2: Purl to last st of triangle, p2tog (last st of triangle and first st
of square from previous tier), turn.
Row 3: Rep Row 1.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Rep Rows 4 and 5 until 3 sts rem. P3tog; do not turn. Rep from * for
Triangles 3–8. On last triangle, BO rem st.
Sizes 311⁄2 (43, 501⁄2)" only: Pick up and purl 9 (13, 16) sts along edge
triangle 1:
Row 1: (RS) Knit to last st of triangle, ssk (last st of triangle and first
triangle 2: *Pick up and knit 8 (12, 15) sts along edge of square from
previous tier.
Row 1: (WS) Purl to end of triangle, turn.
Row 2: Knit to last st of triangle, ssk (last st of triangle and first st of
Row 3: Rep Row 1.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Row 5: Purl to last 2 sts, p2tog, turn.
Rep Rows 4 and 5 until 3 sts rem. Sssk; do not turn. Rep from * for
Triangles 3–8. On last triangle, BO rem st.
FiNiShiNG
Weave in ends. Block to dimensions. Neck: Remove provisional CO
and transfer live sts to needle. Do not join. Join new yarn, taking care
to match color as closely as possible. With RS facing, BO all sts. Note:
Neckline dimension can be adjusted slightly depending on how loosely
or tightly you BO. Rep for underarm sts. Weave in ends. Block again, if
desired.
Bonnie Paul began to crochet and knit as a much-needed respite while
completing her doctoral work in psychology. Her focus as a knitwear
designer is creating elegant, wearable art.
st of square from previous tier), turn.
Row 2: Purl to end of triangle, turn.
Row 3: Rep Row 1.
Row 4: Purl to last 2 sts, p2tog, turn.
311⁄2 (35, 39, 43, 461⁄2, 501⁄2)"
80 (89, 99, 109, 118, 128) cm
body
24 (271⁄2, 351⁄4, 40, 43, 461⁄2)"
61 (70, 89.5, 101.5, 109, 118) cm
32 (35, 43, 461⁄2, 54, 58)"
81 (89, 109, 118, 137, 147) cm
61⁄4 (7, 71⁄2, 73⁄4, 81⁄2, 91⁄2)"
16 (18, 19, 19.5, 21.5, 24) cm
28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38)"
71 (76, 81, 86, 91, 96.5) cm
163⁄4 (17, 18, 183⁄4, 181⁄2, 181⁄2)"
42.5 (43, 46, 47.5, 47, 47) cm
8 (81⁄2, 91⁄2, 101⁄2, 11, 12)"
20.5 (21.5, 24, 26.5, 28, 30.5) cm
Rep Rows 3 and 4 until 3 sts rem. Sssk; do not turn.
Underarm Triangle
Placement Guide
sleeve triangles
Attach new
underarm
triangles at
corners
28
abbrevIatIOnS
Invisible (Provisional) Cast-On
Figure 1
Figure 2
I N T E R W E A V E
K NITS
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make beautiful knitted garments and accessories,
and you don’t have to hunt all over for inspiring
designs.
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gives you great projects, from the beginner to the
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articles sure to inspire.
interweaveknits.com
Place a loose slipknot on needle held in your right hand. Hold waste
yarn next to slipknot and around left thumb; hold working yarn over
left index finger. *Bring needle forward under waste yarn, over working
yarn, grab a loop of working yarn (Figure 1), then bring needle to the front,
over both yarns, and grab a second loop (Figure 2). Repeat from *. When
you’re ready to work in the opposite direction, pick out waste yarn to
expose live stitches.
beg
bet
BO
CC
cm
cn
CO
cont
dec(s)
dpn
foll
g
inc
k
k1f&b
k2tog
kwise
LC
m(s)
MC
mm
M1
M1R (L)
p
p1f&b
p2tog
patt(s)
pm
psso
p2sso
beginning; begin; begins
between
bind off
contrasting color
centimeter(s)
cable needle
cast on
continue(s); continuing
decrease(s); decreasing
double-pointed needle(s)
following; follows
gram(s)
increase(s); increasing
knit
knit into front and back of same st
knit two stitches together
knitwise
left cross
marker(s)
main color
millimeter(s)
make one (increase)
make one right (left)
purl
purl into front and back of same st
purl two stitches together
pattern(s)
place marker
pass slipped stitch over
pass two slipped stitches
over
pwise
purlwise
RC
right cross
rem
remain(s); remaining
rep
repeat; repeating
rev St st reverse stockinette stitch
rib
ribbing
rnd(s)
round(s)
RS
right side
rev sc
reverse single crochet
sc
single crochet
sk
skip
sl
slip
sl st
slip stitch (sl 1 st pwise unless
otherwise indicated)
ssk
slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise,
k2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease)
ssp
slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, p2 sl sts
tog tbl (decrease)
st(s)
stitch(es)
St st
stockinette stitch
tbl
through back loop
tog
together
WS
wrong side
wyb
with yarn in back
wyf
with yarn in front
yo
yarn over
*
repeat starting point
(i.e., repeat from *)
**
repeat all instructions
between asterisks
()
alternate measurements
and/or instructions
[]
instructions that are to be worked
as a group a
specified number of times
29
EntrElac socks
E U N N Y
J A N G
noteS
u These socks are made in entrelac. See page 3 to learn more about this technique.
u These socks are knitted from the toe up.
u T
o reduce the number of ends left to weave in, carry the unused color along the
u
EUNNY JANG achieves an argyle kiltsock look with her “woven” entrelac
socks. Eunny knits, spins, sews, and writes
in Denver, Colorado.
Finished Size 71⁄2" foot circumference,
93⁄4" from back of heel to tip of toe, and 15"
high from top of heel flap to upper edge.
To fit women’s U.S. shoe sizes 8 to 9.
Yarn Koigu Premium Merino (100%
merino; 170 yd [155 m]/50 g): #2151 light
teal (MC), 3 skeins; #2390.5 light beige
(CC), 2 skeins.
Needles Size 1 (2.25 mm): set of 5
double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if
necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Marker (m); stitch holder;
spare dpn same size or smaller than main
needles; tapestry needle.
Gauge 17 sts and 22 rnds = 2" in St st
worked in the rnd.
wrong side as you work the first unit of each tier, catching the two colors together
at the selvedge of the first unit, so the unused color will be in the correct position
the next time it is needed.
You may find it helpful to place the stitches of the unit you are working on the same
needle as the stitches that are being joined to the unit in progress.
Right Stocking
Toe: With MC and the Middle East–wrap
CO method (see box), wrap yarn around 2
dpn so there are 6 sts on each needle. Work
1 rnd on all 12 sts, and on the next rnd,
pick up and knit 2 sts along each side—16
sts total. Redistribute sts evenly on 4 dpn:
4 sts on each dpn. Place marker (pm) and
join for working in the rnd, being careful
not to twist sts. Knit 1 rnd. Inc rnd: *On
Needle 1, k1, M1 (see box), knit to end; on
Needle 2, knit to last st, M1, k1; rep from
* on Needles 3 and 4 — 4 sts inc’d; 1 st
inc’d on each needle. Rep Inc rnd 11 more
times—64 sts total: 16 sts on each needle.
Knit 1 rnd even, then rep Inc rnd once
more—68 sts total: 17 sts on each needle.
Rep the last 2 rnds once more—72 sts: 18
sts on each needle; toe measures about 13⁄4"
from beg of CO. Note: For a longer foot,
work even in St st until toe measures 8"
less than desired total foot length; every
3 rnds added will inc foot length by about
1
⁄4". Base triangles: Work all base triangles
using MC. With RS facing, work as foll:
Row 1: (RS) [Ssk] 2 times (see box), turn.
Row 4: P3, turn.
Row 6: P4, turn.
Row 8: P5, turn.
Row 9: (RS) K5, ssk; do not turn—
one 6-st base triangle completed from
12 toe sts.
With RS still facing, work Rows 1–9 once
more for 2nd base triangle. Rep Rows 1–9
four more times in the same manner—36
sts rem; six 6-st base triangles. Distribute
sts evenly on 3 dpn, two 6-st triangles on
each needle. Drop MC to WS of work. CC
tier: Work all blocks of this tier using CC.
1st block: If this is the 1st CC tier, join
CC with RS facing to 1st row of next base
triangle in the “valley” between 2 triangles. If this is a later CC tier, beg working
with carried strand of CC, which should
be in a valley between 2 MC blocks. With
RS facing, pick up and knit 6 sts along
selvedge of next unit from 1st row to last
row of unit (base to tip), turn work so WS
is facing. *P5, p2tog, turn, k6, turn; rep
from * 4 more times, p5, p2tog, do not
turn—all sts from next unit have been
dec’d away; 1st block of CC tier completed. 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th blocks:
With WS still facing, pick up and purl 6
sts along selvedge of next unit from last
row to first row of unit (tip to base), turn
work so RS is facing. *K6, turn, p5, p2tog,
turn; rep from * 5 more times, do not turn
work after final p2tog—next block of CC
tier completed; all sts of next unit have
been dec’d away. Work 3rd, 4th, 5th, and
6th blocks as for 2nd block—a total of six
6-st blocks for CC tier. Redistribute sts if
necessary onto 3 dpn, two 6-st units on
each needle. Drop CC to WS of work.
MC tier: Work all blocks of this tier with
MC. 1st block: Beg working with carried
strand of MC, which should be in a valley
30
between 2 CC blocks. With WS facing,
pick up and purl 6 sts along selvedge of
next unit from base to tip, turn work so
RS is facing. *K5, ssk, turn, p6, turn;
rep from * 4 more times, k5, ssk, do not
turn—all sts from next unit have been
dec’d away. 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th
blocks: With RS still facing, pick up and
knit 6 sts along selvedge of next unit from
tip to base, turn work so WS is facing.
*P6, turn, k5, ssk, turn; rep from * 5 more
times, do not turn work after final ssk—
next block of MC tier completed; all sts
of next unit have been dec’d away. Work
3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th blocks as for 2nd
block—a total of six 6-st blocks for MC
tier. Redistribute sts if necessary onto 3
dpn, two 6-st units on each needle. Drop
MC to WS of work. Cont in this manner,
alternating a CC tier with a MC tier, until
a total of 5 CC tiers have been completed,
ending with a CC tier—piece measures
about 6" from lowest point of 1st CC tier
to highest point of last CC tier, and 73⁄4"
from toe CO to highest point of last CC
tier. Heel starting tier: 1st heel triangle:
With WS facing and MC, pick up and purl
7 sts along selvedge of next unit from base
to tip, turn so RS is facing.
Row 2: (WS) P6, M1 pwise (see box),
turn.
Row 3: Rep Row 1.
Row 4: P5, M1 pwise, turn.
Row 11: K2, ssk, do not turn—12 heel-triangle sts created from 6 block sts; all sts of
next unit have been dec’d away. 2nd and
3rd heel triangles: With RS still facing,
pick up and knit 7 sts along selvedge of
next unit from tip to base, turn work so
WS is facing.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Row 12: K2, ssk; do not turn—12 heel-tri-
angle sts created from 6 block sts; all sts of
next unit have been dec’d away.
Work 3rd heel triangle same as 2nd heel
triangle. Place sts for all 3 heel triangles
on same needle—36 heel sts total. Place
rem 18 sts of three 6-st CC blocks on
holder for instep. Short-row heel: Turn
work so WS is facing. Working on heel
sts only, work short-rows (see box) using
MC as foll:
Row 1: (WS) Sl 1 pwise with yarn in front
(wyf), p32, wrap next st, turn.
Row 2: (RS) K29, wrap next st, turn.
Row 3: Purl to 1 st before wrapped st,
wrap next st, turn.
Row 4: Knit to 1 st before wrapped st,
wrap next st, turn.
Rows 5–16: Rep Rows 3 and 4 six more
times; Row 16 should have been worked
as k15, wrap next st, turn—8 wrapped sts
each side.
Row 17: (WS) P14 to 1 st before wrapped
st, wrap next st, turn.
Row 18: K15 to wrapped st, work wrapped
st tog with its wrap, wrap next st, turn.
Row 19: P16 to wrapped st, work wrapped
Row 20: Knit to wrapped st, work
wrapped st tog with its wrap, wrap next
st, turn.
Row 21: Purl to wrapped st, work wrapped
Rows 22–32: Rep Rows 20 and 21 five
more times, then work Row 20 once more;
Row 32 should have been worked as k29,
work wrapped st tog with its wrap, wrap
next st, turn—1 wrapped st each side.
Row 33: Purl to last st, working wrapped
st tog with its wrap, wrap last st, turn.
Row 34: Knit to end, working wrapped st
tog with its wrap, turn.
Row 35 : Sl 1 pwise wyf, purl to end,
working rem wrapped st tog with its wrap,
turn—36 heel sts. Heel ending tier: Turn
work so RS is facing, and with MC work
Rows 1–9 as for base triangles—one 6-st
base triangle completed from 12 heel sts.
With RS still facing, work Rows 1–9 of
base triangle 2 more times in the same
manner—18 heel sts
rem; three 6-st heel
triangles completed.
Redistribute heel sts
so first 2 triangles are
on 1 needle, and the
last heel triangle is
on another needle. Return 18 held instep
sts to needles. With MC and needle
holding sts of last heel triangle, with RS
facing pick up and knit 6 sts along selvedge of next CC block from tip to base,
turn work so WS is facing. Work as for
4th, 5th, and 6th blocks of regular MC
tier—36 sts, six 6-st units completed, 3
heel ending triangles, and 3 regular MC
blocks. Redistribute sts if necessary onto
3 dpn, two 6-st triangles on each needle.
Drop MC to WS of work. Leg: Resume
alternating a CC tier with a MC tier until
5 CC tiers have been completed above
the heel, ending with a CC tier—piece
measures about 6" from lowest point of
1st CC tier above heel to highest point of
last CC tier. Note: For a longer or shorter stocking, add or remove pairs of tiers
for desired length; every 2 tiers added or
removed will lengthen or shorten the leg
length by about 11⁄4". MC inc tier: Work
inc tier blocks using MC. 1st block: With
WS facing, pick up and purl 7 sts along
selvedge of next unit from base to tip,
turn work so RS is facing. *K6, ssk, turn,
p7, turn; rep from * 4 more times, k6, ssk,
do not turn—one 7-st inc block completed; all sts from next unit have been
dec’d away. 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th
blocks: With RS still facing, pick up and
knit 7 sts along selvedge of next unit from
tip to base, turn work so WS is facing.
*P7, turn, k6, ssk, turn; rep from * 5 more
times, but do not turn work after final
ssk—next block of MC tier completed;
all sts of next unit have been dec’d away.
Work 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th blocks as for
2nd block—six 7-st blocks completed;
42 sts. Redistribute sts if necessary onto
3 dpn, two 7-st blocks on each needle.
Drop MC to WS of work. CC 7-st tier:
With RS facing and CC, pick up and knit
7 sts along selvedge of next unit from base
to tip, turn work so WS is facing. *P6,
p2tog, turn, k7, turn; rep from * 5 more
times, p6, p2tog, do not turn—all sts from
31
next unit have been dec’d
away; 1st block of CC tier
completed. 2nd, 3rd, 4th,
5th, and 6th blocks: With
WS still facing, pick up and
purl 7 sts along selvedge of
next unit from tip to base,
turn so RS is facing. *K7, turn, p6, p2tog,
turn; rep from * 6 more times, do not turn
work after final p2tog—next block of CC
tier completed; all sts of next unit have
been dec’d away. Work 3rd, 4th, 5th, and
6th blocks as for 2nd block—a total of six
7-st blocks for CC tier. Redistribute sts if
necessary onto 3 dpn, two 7-st units on
each needle. Drop CC to WS of work. MC
7-st tier: With MC and WS facing, pick
up and purl 7 sts along selvedge of next
unit from base to tip, turn so RS is facing.
*K6, ssk, turn, p7, turn; rep from * 5 more
times, k6, ssk, do not turn—one 7-st inc
block completed; all sts from next unit have
been dec’d away. 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and
6th blocks: With RS still facing, pick up
and knit 7 sts along selvedge of next unit
from tip to base, turn work so WS is facing. *P7, turn, k6, ssk, turn; rep from * 6
more times, do not turn work after final
ssk—next block of MC tier completed;
all sts of next unit have been dec’d away.
Work 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th blocks as for
2nd block—a total of six 7-st blocks for
MC tier. Redistribute sts if necessary onto
3 dpn, two 7-st units on each needle. Drop
MC to WS of work. Alternate a CC 7-st
tier with a MC 7-st tier until there are a
total of 11 CC tiers above the heel (five
6-st CC tiers and six 7-st CC tiers), ending
with a CC tier—piece measures about 14"
from lowest point of 1st CC tier above heel
to highest point of last CC tier. Note: For
a longer or shorter stocking, add or remove
pairs of tiers for desired length; every two
7-st tiers added or removed will lengthen
or shorten the leg length by about 11⁄2". Cut
CC. Top triangles: Work all top triangles
using MC. 1st triangle: With WS facing,
pick up and purl 8 sts along selvedge of next
unit from base to tip, turn so RS is facing.
Row 2: (WS) P7, M1 pwise, turn.
Row 3: Rep Row 1.
Row 13: K2, ssk, do not turn—14 heel-
triangle sts created from 7 block sts; all sts
of next unit have been dec’d away. 2nd,
3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th top triangles:
along selvedge of next unit from tip to base,
turn so WS is facing.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Row 14: K2, ssk; do not turn— 14 toptriangle sts created from 7 block sts; all sts
of next unit have been dec’d away. Work
3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th top triangles same
as 2nd top triangle—84 sts, six 14-st units.
Redistribute sts evenly on 3 needles if
necessary. Cuff:
Rnd 1: Knit 1 rnd on all sts.
Rnds 2–5: Work 4 rnds in k1, p1 rib.
Rnd 6: (outer eyelet rnd) Identify the purl
column closest to the center of the outside
of the right leg (halfway between center front and center back) and mark this
column of sts. Work in established rib to
5 sts before marked purl column, ssk, yo,
[k1, p1] 3 times, ssk, yo, work in established
rib to end—2 yo eyelet holes completed.
Rnd 11: Purl 1 rnd for fold line—cuff measures about 1" from pick-up rnd.
Rnd 16: (inner eyelet rnd) *K1, yo, k2tog,
p1; rep from * to end of rnd—21 eyelet
holes completed.
Rnds 17–20: Work 4 rnds in k1, p1, rib.
Using spare dpns, pick up the purl bump
on the WS of each st in cuff Rnd 1 by slipping the needle into each bump; these sts
are just picked up, not picked up and knit-
ted. Fold the cuff in half along the fold line,
with the needles holding the live sts of Rnd
20 in front, and the spare needles with the
picked-up sts in back—84 sts on each set
of needles. BO sts tog as foll: K2tog (1st st
each on front and back needle), *yo, k2tog
(1 st each from front and back needle), pass
1st st on right needle and yo both over the
last st worked; rep from * to end. Break yarn
and fasten off last st.
Left Stocking
Work as for right stocking until Rnd 5 of
cuff has been completed. Identify the purl
column closest to the center of the outside
of the left leg (halfway between center front
and center back) and mark this column of
sts; this should be on the opposite side of
the leg from the right stocking. Work Rnds
6–20 and complete as for right stocking.
finiShing
Weave in ends. Tassels: Make 4 tassels,
2 each in MC and CC, as foll: Wrap yarn
40 times around a piece of cardboard at least
3" tall, then with another strand of yarn tie
loops tightly at top (tassel “head”). Cut
loops at bottom edge of cardboard. Wrap
yarn tightly around all strands about 1⁄2"
down from the top (tassel “neck”). Trim
loose ends even. Twisted cord: Cut four 90"
strands of yarn, two each in MC and CC.
Make two twisted cords (see box), each
containing one strand of each color. Thread
end of cord on tapestry needle and thread
through cuff as foll: Enter the cuff from outside of stocking through left outer eyelet,
weave cord in and out of inner eyelet holes
around top of stocking, and exit the cuff
through the right outer eyelet. Sew a MC
tassel to one end of cord and CC tassel to
other end. Rep for second stocking. Block
lightly, if desired. Tie cords as shown.
32
Middle East–Wrap Cast-On
Ssk Decrease
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 4
Figure 1
Right Slant (M1R)
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 2
With left needle tip,
lift strand between
needles, from back to
front (Figure 1). Purl
lifted loop (Figure 2).
Short Rows: Wrapping a Stitch
Work to turn point, slip next stitch
purlwise to right needle. Bring yarn to
front (Figure 1). Slip same stitch back
to left needle (Figure 2). Turn work and
bring yarn in position for next stitch,
Figure 1
wrapping the stitch as you do so. Note:
Hide wraps in a knit stitch when right
side of piece is worked in a knit stitch.
Leave wrap if the purl stitch shows on
right side. Hide wraps as follows: Knit
Figure 2
stitch: On right side, work to just before
wrapped stitch. Insert right needle from front, under the wrap
from bottom up, and then into wrapped stitch as usual. Knit
them together, making sure new stitch comes out under wrap.
Purl stitch: On wrong side, work to just before wrapped stitch.
Insert right needle from back, under wrap from bottom up, and
put on left needle. Purl them together.
Figure 2
Slip two stitches knitwise one at a time
(Figure 1). Insert point of left needle into
front of two slipped stitches and knit
them together through back loops with
right needle (Figure 2).
Twisted Cord
Purlwise (M1P)
Left Slant (M1L)
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 1
Cut several lengths of yarn
about five times the desired
finished cord length. Fold the
strands in half to form two
equal groups. Anchor the
strands at the fold by looping
Figure 1 Figure 2 them over a doorknob. Holding one group in each hand,
twist each group tightly in a clockwise direction
until they begin to kink. Put both groups in one
hand, then release them, allowing them to twist
around each other counterclockwise. Smooth
out the twists so that they are uniform along the
length of the cord. Knot the ends.
Knitted Cast-On
Place slipknot on left needle if there are no established stitches. *With right needle, knit into first
stitch (or slipknot) on left needle (Figure 1) and
Figure 1
Figure 2
Snugly wrap the working yarn counterclockwise around two needles. Bring the yarn forward between needles, back to front (Figure 1). Knit across stitches on upper needle
(Figure 2). Rotate the work and knit across
the same number of stitches on the other
needle (Figure 3). On the third row, pick
up two stitches along each side (Figure 4).
33

How to Knit Entrelac Plus 6 Free Entrelac Knitting Patterns

Transcription

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