The Importance of Flavour – Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc
Transcription
The Importance of Flavour – Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc
The Importance of Flavour – Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Patrick Materman – Chief Winemaker, Pernod Ricard NZ Session Outline • Quick overview of New Zealand wine and what drives New Zealand’s wine styles • Marlborough – the sub-regions • Research work • Style differentiation – Understanding the consumer • Tasting New Zealand Wine in World Terms New Zealand produces less than 0.5% of the world’s wine New Zealand Wine High quality – commands highest average price in major world markets. Industry total crush = 285,000 tonnes in 2012 (328,000 in 2011) Sauvignon Blanc makes up over 70% of total production and 84% of exports Producing vineyard land area = 34,000 Ha (similar size to Champagne) MAT April 2013 exports are 171.1 m. litres, down 4% on the previous year; packaged exports are +6.3% for the period and other exports are down 23.1%. MAT March 2013 export value is $1.204 billion, up 3% on the previous year Created arguably the most notable new wine style of the 20th Century – Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. New Zealand Topography Terroir – Rugged terrain creates variety of local climates. – Geologically diverse soils. Prevailing winds – Intense sun. – Cool Maritime breezes. – Long, slow ripening season ‘hang-time’ builds flavour. New Zealand Wine Regions Wine is made throughout the length of New Zealand. Northland/ Auckland The main wine regions are on east coast plains. Gisborne Three regions account for 91% of the harvest: – Marlborough (75%) – Hawke’s Bay (11%) – Gisborne (5%) Nelson Hawkes Bay Wellington Marlborough Canterbury Otago Marlborough 2448 sunshine hours p.a. 650mm rainfall p.a. 1154 Growing Degree Days (GDD) – coolest category for vine growth High diurnal range (day/night temperature variation) Marlborough Montana Wines Ltd pioneered Marlborough’s first on going vineyard development in 1973. First Sauvignon Blanc in Marlborough planted by Montana Wines Ltd in 1975 with first wine released in 1979 22,587 ha under vine (2012) – 66% of NZ vineyard Around 80% of Marlborough’s harvest is Sauvignon Blanc Key Varietals Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Gris Marlborough Vineyards Marlborough Terroir: sub-regions Rapaura Southern Valleys Awatere 1000 800 700 600 Marlborough Rainfall mm/ year Marlborough Heat Summation - GDD Annual Heat Summation (GDD) 1250 1300 1100 Marlborough Soils clay based, older soils, higher elevation riverbed stony soils, free draining, less heat or mineral retention valley floor, more fertile, loamy soils Rapaura District Rapaura District Brancott – Southern Valleys Awatere Valley So what’s the difference? Rapaura Warm Mod. Dry New soils In-fertile Stoneleigh, Stoneleigh Latitude, Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Brancott Cool Dry Old soils Semi-fertile Brancott Estate Letter Series ‘B’ and Chosen Rows Awatere Very cool Very dry Recent soils Semi-fertile Triplebank Diversity between sub regions – Sauvignon Blanc Tropical Cut Grass / Herbal Tomato Leaf Brancott Rapaura Capsicum / Gooseberry Awatere Sensory <0.05 ns Passion Tropical 65 60 55 Mineral Stonefruit 50 ns ns 45 40 35 30 Boxwood Grapefruit/ citrus 25 ns ns Herbaceous Leafy <0.01 <0.001 Squire Grassy Capsicum Oyster Bay <0.001 <0.001 Brancott Villa Awatere Descriptive flavour analysis Orthonasal (by nose) Research - The NZ Sauvignon Blanc Programme - 1.Yeast genomics and breeding - thiol and general flavour/aroma enhancement - Mouthfeel characteristics - Low temperature tolerant yeast strains - 2. Analytical Chemistry - Identifying key aroma compounds and their relationship to sensory attributes of NZ SBL - 3. Sensory evaluation of flavour - Developing common descriptive terminology - Identifying flavours unique to NZ - 4. Plant genomics - Understanding biochemical pathways. - Assigning gene function to physiological processes of importance to grape production systems - 5. Viticulture and Vineyard Management - Regional and Subregional differences - Effect of management practices on aroma and flavour expression GCMS analysis of key aroma compounds in Sauvignon Blanc Primary Sauvignon Blanc Aroma Compounds Methoxypyrazines Methoxy-3-isobutyl pyrazine (MIBP or IBMP) (Capsicum/bellpepper) 3-Mercaptohexan-1-ol (3MH) Volatile thiols (Grapefruit) 3-Mercaptohexan-1-ol acetate (3MHA) (Passionfruit) 4-Mercapto-4-methylpenta-2-one (4MMP) (Boxwood/Broom) C6 Alcohols Hexanol (Grassy/Green) Laura Nicolau et al. Range of 3MH and 3MHA values . Learning about yeast behavior can help us select yeast to use Aroma-less precursors in juice 4MMP-cys Uptake 4MMP-cys Losses Final aroma compounds in wine 3MH-cys 3MH-cys Cleavage 4MMP Acetylation 3MHA 3MH 4MMP 3MH 3MHA Brancott Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 3MH levels - all analysed Jan 2009 ng/L 4500 4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 1500 1000 500 0 0 1 2008 2 3 2006 4 5 2004 6 7 2002 8 9 2000 10 11 year There is a linear drop in 3MH levels over time – due to bottle ageing or changed viticulture or winemaking technology Brancott Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 3MHA levels - all analysed Jan 2009 ng/L 600 500 400 300 200 100 0 0 2008 2 2006 4 2004 6 2002 8 2000 10 year 3MHA drops exponentially through conversion to 3MH 3MHA better preserved at lower Temperatures Storage temperature effect on 3MH and 3MHA (3 months) 4,000 800 0°C 5°C 10°C 15°C 0°C 2,000 5°C 500 10°C 15°C 400 300 1,000 3MH 600 200 3MHA ng/L 3MH ng/L 3,000 700 3MHA Linear (3MHA) Linear (3MH) 100 0 0 Current trial work indicates lower temperature storage preserves thiols - after three months at 15 degrees, loss of 3MHA of around 20% compared with 0 degree Hexanol ug/L 4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 1500 1000 500 0 commercial wines, n=6 icon wines, n=19 Hexanol: Machine Harvest vs. Handpick ug/L 3500 3000 2500 2000 1500 1000 500 perception threshold in model wine: 1100 ug/L 0 2008 2007 2006 2005 2004 year 2003 2002 2001 Stability of hexanol in Brancott SBL 2000 Phenylethanol OAV 20 mg/L 300 250 200 OAV 9.4 150 100 OAV 2 50 0 commercial wines, B404, wild ferment B406, wild ferment n=6 mg/L 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 perception threshold in model wine: 14 mg/L 5 0 2008 2007 2006 2005 2004 year 2003 2002 2001 2000 Stability of phenylethanol in Brancott SB Vintage GDD comparisons Figure 1: Growing degree days for Blenheim: days ahead (+) or behind (-) average. Growing Degree Day summation starting from 1 September (N.B. 12/13 vintage up till 28th March 2013) Sauvignon Blanc Expressions Style - Fresh/ Aperitif/ Crisp/ Lower winemaker influence - Concentrated/ Food wine/ Greater texture and structure - Age-worthy – wines that will improve with bottle age Terroir - Rapaura – Ripe, Tropical yet Flinty and crisp - Brancott – More herbaceous yet textural and richer - Awatere – Nettles, Pungent yet ripe and refreshing Artefact / Winemaker influence - Fermentation characters including complex sulphides / reductive notes - development of thiols and other aromas - malolactic fermentation - lees contact - oak usage Style diversity - Winemaking Handpick - Whole bunch pressing Wild yeast ferment Barrel fermentation Use of large format oak vessels Malolactic fermentation Yeast lees contact and stirring Oak/bottle ageing Latepick Sauvignon Blanc 2013 38 Sustainability in viticulture 40 Taste Profile – US White Wine Taste Preferences Down to Earthers Unsure Socials Considerate Occasionals Shy Novices Indifferent Homestayers 70 68 54 66 63 56 48 34 47 52 43 52 51 38 43 30 45 60 37 55 59 45 36 38 36 35 32 25 21 Total Confident Connectors Culture Seekers Light/crisp/fresh 65 60 70 77 Fruity 45 42 48 Sweet 45 45 Full-flavoured 38 50 Column % Refined Conservative Entertainers Browsers Light/crisp/fresh is overall the favourite white style; Sweet and Fruity appeal to younger and less confident segments so clear opportunity to engage with accessible styles. Full flavoured again popular with more confident segments including Confident connectors. Base size: All white wine drinkers (Left to right 1642, 408, 202, 191, 177, 115, 169, 136, 135, 109) Q36a White wine taste preference; Typology segmentation Shading shows differences within each row 42 Typologies: Country of Origin preferences Column % Total Indiffere Confide Conside Refined Conserv Down to Unsure Shy nt nt rate Culture Entertain ative Earthers Socials Occasio Novices HomeConnec Seekers Browsers ers stayers tors nals USA 58 57 65 64 64 68 46 52 49 52 Italy 33 49 40 42 31 22 30 27 16 12 France 31 49 41 33 27 20 31 25 16 7 Australia 22 25 34 36 23 20 13 14 15 10 Spain 15 30 18 17 14 9 10 10 5 2 Chile 13 19 18 20 13 12 8 9 4 4 Germany 12 16 18 19 12 6 5 8 9 5 New Zealand 10 18 20 13 6 5 5 4 4 1 Argentina 10 18 15 11 6 6 8 5 3 1 South Africa 6 12 11 8 6 3 2 2 2 1 Portugal 6 11 6 7 7 4 5 2 1 1 Canada Other European Country 3 7 1 1 0 2 7 1 2 0 3 4 3 4 2 3 3 2 1 0 USA is the preferred COO, although old world wines from Italy, France and Spain are popular with more discerning segments and new world wines are popular with Culture Seekers and Refined Entertainers. Australia is overall the 4th preferred COO Drinkers % Shading shows differences within each row Q39c Favourite countries of origin; Typology segmentation Base sizes: All wine drinkers (Left to right 2247, 456, 267, 236, 239, 180, 229, 212, 221, 207) 43 Typologies: White varietal preferences Column % Total Refined Conserva Confident Culture Entertain tive Down to Connectors Seekers ers Browsers Earthers Consider ate Indifferen Unsure Occasion Shy t HomeSocials als Novices stayers Chardonnay 38 47 43 33 45 43 33 28 25 24 Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio 32 32 44 36 38 40 19 26 23 20 Riesling 30 29 31 49 32 22 26 26 25 26 Sauvignon Blanc 23 31 36 24 27 19 13 16 8 8 Moscato 19 22 17 27 14 14 21 18 18 15 Chablis 13 17 11 16 14 13 9 10 10 6 Pinot Blanc 12 22 10 13 12 11 9 6 3 2 Gewurztraminer 11 11 19 20 8 10 7 4 8 7 No favourites 7 3 3 4 3 6 11 9 16 10 Chenin Blanc 5 9 7 6 4 5 2 2 2 1 Viognier 4 7 11 4 5 2 1 1 0 0 Fume Blanc 4 8 7 4 4 3 0 3 0 2 Chardonnay is the preferred white varietal, followed by Pinot Gris and Riesling. Those in more knowledgeable segments are a little more adventurous than those in less engaged segments Drinkers % Shading shows differences within each row Q37c Favourite white wine varietals; Typology segmentation Base size: All white wine drinkers (Left to right 1642, 408, 202, 191, 177, 115, 169, 136, 135, 109) 44 Typology profile: Premium NZ Wine Consumer Confident Connectors 20 Culture Seekers Refined Entertainers Conservative Browsers Down to Earthers Unsure Socials 12 40 55 59 10 11 8 14 8 11 Considerate Occasionals 9 9 7 Shy Novices 11 11 Indifferent Home-stayers 9 7 2 1 PNZ wine consumer All US wine consumers 12 7 5 13 6 5 9 5 9 9 2 2 1 1 0 0 PNZ wine volume PNZ wine value Confident Connectors are the dominant segment within the PNZ Wine consumer, accounting for 4 in 10 consumers and more than half of wine volume and value Typology Segmentation; People%, Volume %, Value % Base: All wine drinkers (2247); All PNZ wine drinkers (239); All wine drinking occasions of PNZ wine drinkers (411) 45 Premium NZ wine drinking Confident Connectors are… Males Under 45 19 45 59% 41% (48%) (52%) Target – men (59%) 3 45-65 38 Total market 16 27 35 41 35-44 26 29 (Total market) Higher income Not stated High Medium 44 22-34 PNZ Confident Connectors Target – under 45 (82%) 45 32 Total market Low PNZ Confident Connectors Target – mid-high income (68%) Current Premium New Zealand wine consumers within Confident Connectors are male, under 45 and have a higher income than the average consumer. NB. Note that regional differences are only slight Q2 Gender; Q3 Age; Q5 income Base: Total market (2247), Premium NZ Confident Connectors (100) 46 Brancott Estate Global Strategic Target OLDER Conservative Browsers Refined Entertainers Indifferent Home-stayers Considerate Occasionals Confident Connectors Culture Seekers Shy Novices Unsure Socials YOUNGER 47 Source: WiSe Typology segmentation across 7 markets PASSIONATE FUNCTIONAL Down to Earthers Consumer Targets – PWB Portfolio OLDER Conservative Browsers Refined Entertainers Indifferent Home-stayers Considerate Occasionals Cosmos Confident Connectors Culture Seekers Shy Novices Unsure Socials YOUNGER 48 Source: WiSe Typology segmentation across 7 markets PASSIONATE FUNCTIONAL Down to Earthers 8 .5 Total Population Sweet Stewed Fruits Sweet Tropical Fruits Mild Jacob' s Creek Nectar Riesling+ sweet 8 .0 OV E R AL L ACCE P T ANCE 9 POINT SCAL E 7 .5 Jacob's Creek Moscato Sutter Home Moscato Jacob's Creek Mos& SAB blend Barefoot Moscato Jacob's Creek Nectar Riesling+ sweet Jacob's Creek Moscato Barefoot Moscato Sutter Home Moscato 7 .0 6 .5 6 .0 5 .5 5 .0 Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc + sweet Wyndham Estate Chardonnay + sweet Jacob' s Creek Sauvignon Blanc+ sweet Jacob's Creek RIes + sweet Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc+sweet Barefoot Pinot Grigio Jacob's Creek Sauvignon Blanc+ sweet Conundrum White Blend Conundrum White Blend Yellow Tail Chardonnay Chateau St Michelle Dry Riesling Jacobs Creek Chardonnay + soft Jacob's Creek Pinot Grigio+ soft Woodbridge Sauvignon Blanc Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc Cupcake Sauvignon Blanc Menage a Trois Chardonnay Brancott Estate Pinot Grigio Wyndham Estate Bin 222 Chardonnay Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc Australia Jacob's Creek Chardonnay Crios Torrontes Kendall Jackson Chardonnay Chateau St Michelle Sauvignon Blanc Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc Layer Cake Chardonnay Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Jacob' s Creek Riesling Cavit Pinot Grigio Jacob's Creek Mos & SAB blend Barefoot Moscato Jacob's Creek Nectar Riesling+ sweet Jacob's Creek Ries + sweet Wyndham Estate Chardonnay + sweet Menage a Trois blend Jacob's Creek Ries + sweet Jacob's Creek Sauvignon Blanc+ sweet Jacob's Creek Moscato Barefoot Pinot Grigio Kendall Jackson Chardonnay Chateau St Michelle Dry Riesling Yellow Tail Chardonnay Cupcake Sauvignon Blanc Menage a Trois blend Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc Australia Jacob's Creek Pinot Grigio+ soft Crios Torrontes Brancott Estate Pinot Grigio Jacobs Creek Chardonnay + soft Jacob's Creek Riesling Wyndham Estate BinChardonnay Menage a Trois Chardonnay Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc Chateau St Michelle Sauvignon Blanc Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc Jacob's Creek Chardonnay Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Layer Cake Chardonnay Cavit Pinot Grigio 4 .5 Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc Wyndham Estate Chardonnay + sweet Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc+ sweet Sutter Home Moscato Woodbridge Sauvignon Blanc Barefoot Pinot Grigio Jacob's Creek Mos & SAB blend Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Brancott Estate Pinot Grigio Cavit Pinot Grigio Jacob's Creek Pinot Grigio+ soft Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc Australia Conundrum White Blend Menage a Trois blend Chateau St Michelle Dry Riesling Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc Chateau St Michelle Sauvignon Blanc Jacobs Creek Chardonnay + soft Cupcake Sauvignon Blanc Layer Cake Chardonnay Crios Torrontes Jacob's Creek Chardonnay Yellow Tail Chardonnay Menage a Trois Chardonnay Chateau St Michelle Dry Riseling Jacob's Creek Sauvignon Blanc + sweet Kendall Jackson Chardonnay Jacob's Creek Riesling Conundrum White Blend Cupcake Sauvignon Blanc Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc Australia Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc + sweet Crios Torrontes Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc Wyndham Estate Bin222 Chardonnay Kendall Jackson Chardonnay Jacob's Creek Riesling Woodbridge Sauvignon Blanc 4 .0 Barefoot Pinot Grigio Jacob's Creek Pinot Grigio+ soft Yellow Tail Chardonnay Cavit Pinot Grigio Jacob's Creek Chardonnay Jacob' s CreekRies + sweet Wyndam Estate Chardonnay + sweet Barefoot Moscato Chateau St Michelle Sauvignon Blanc Menage a Trois Chardonnay Jacobs Creek Chardonnay + soft Jacob's Creek Moscato Woodbridge Sauvignon Blanc Layer Cake Chardonnay Menage a Trois blend Brancott Estate Pinot Grigio Sutter Home Moscato Jacob's Creek Nectar Riesling+ sweet Wyndam Estate Bin222 Chardonnay Total Population (n=244) Segment 1 (n=87) Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Segment 2 (n=82) Segment 3 (n=75) Sensory relationships with liking results Significant correlations with trained panel and analytical data Total Population (n=244) Confectionary Fl 0.90 Sweetness 0.89 Softness 0.87 Honey Fl 0.77 Musk Fl 0.69 Honey 0.69 Viscosity 0.67 Stewed fruit Fl 0.65 Canned asp Fl -0.53 Canned green -0.55 Fresh green Fl -0.56 Citrus Fl -0.82 Hotness -0.85 Dry/Astringent -0.85 Acidity -0.88 Bitterness -0.88 Preference Segment 1 (n=87) Sweetness 0.90 Confectionary Fl 0.90 Softness 0.87 Viscosity 0.80 Honey Fl 0.76 Stewed fruit Fl 0.73 Honey 0.66 Musk Fl 0.66 Overall Fruit Fl 0.55 Musk 0.49 Canned green -0.55 Fresh green Fl -0.58 Canned asp Fl -0.59 Hotness -0.74 Citrus Fl -0.79 Dry/Astringent -0.82 Bitterness -0.83 Acidity -0.89 Preference Segment 2 (n=82) Tropical Fl 0.67 Softness 0.64 Sweetness 0.64 Confectionary Fl 0.63 Musk Fl 0.54 Honey Fl 0.50 Yeasty -0.50 Acidity -0.51 Citrus Fl -0.51 Woody Fl -0.54 Dry/Astringent -0.62 Bitterness -0.64 Hotness -0.71 Alcohol -0.78 Alcohol -0.69 Alcohol -0.60 GF 0.92 GF 0.88 GF 0.67 * All 16 products analysis Attributes in black are positive drivers of liking, attributes in red are negative drivers 50 Preference Segment 3 (n=75) Acidity -0.52 Fresh green -0.58 Canned green -0.59 Canned asp Fl -0.64 Overall Fruit I -0.69 Fresh green Fl -0.69 Green capsicum -0.71 Lychee -0.73 Passion fruit -0.74 Important Attributes – Segment 2 – Sweet and Tropical Target Profile Sweetness (+) Softness (+) Tropical Fl (+) Viscosity (-) Dry/Astringent (-) All wines would benefit from reduction in ‘hotness’ and an increase in ‘sweetness/softness’ Honey Fl (+) Hotness (-) Bitterness (-) Confectionary Fl (+) Woody Fl (-) Citrus Fl (-) Vanilla (-) Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc + sweet Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc Target Low Target High 51 Brancott Estate Flight - taking lower alcohol into a different territory Consumer tastings Style Diversity in Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Your turn to taste! First pair of wines… 1. Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2013 2. Rapaura Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Second pair of wines… 3. Brancott Estate ‘Flight’ Sauvignon Blanc 2013 4. Brancott Estate ‘Terroir Series’ Fume Blanc 2011