PRACTICAL OF INTEREST LA ROChELLE
Transcription
PRACTICAL OF INTEREST LA ROChELLE
T RAV EL GUIDE LA ROCHELLE ILE DE R MAPS ¥ 2009 TRAVEL TIPS Bike ride on the Ile ¥ HOTELS ¥ DINING OUT ¥ SHOPPING dÕAix The old market at La Rochelle The Lighthouse tower on the Ile de R 2009 MAPS of La Rochelle and the Ile de R PRACTICAL OF INTEREST La Rochelle Map of La Rochelle General travel tips Getting around town Where to stay? What's on in 2009? Dining out in La Rochelle Going out on the town 2 4 5 6 7 8 10 SHOPPING 13 22 bis rue de l’Ouvrage à Cornes 17000 La Rochelle - France Tel. 05 46 50 53 54 - Fax 05 46 44 70 10 E-mail : [email protected] www.profileditions.com Coordination, layout / Coordination, réalisation Peggy Landon Articles / Rédaction reportages Charles Vincent Cover photo / Photo de couverture Kartiery Photography / Photos Sylvie Curty, Alexandra Duca, Kartiery, Peggy Landon Printed by / Imprimé par Léonce Deprez - France La Rochelle The small world of early risers 12 ile de ré The old lighthouse tower 24 in the area Orphée, the truffle hound Bike ride on the Ile d’Aix 28 30 ILE DE Ré Map of the Ile de Ré Where to stay? Dining out on the Ile de Ré Ré by night 14 16 20 22 Official Partners of ZOOM in the area Advertising / Commercialisation Camille Le Corvic (La Rochelle) Sylvie Tur (Ile de Ré) Tel. C2M: 05 46 50 53 54 Copyright of all editorial contents held by Profil Editions. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without the publisher’s express permission in writing. All documents (text, photos, graphic or other material) sent to the magazine or editorial staff will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and free of reproduction rights. Any eventual copyright is assumed by the sender. We decline any responsibility as to the information detailed herein. Malgré le plus grand soin apporté à la réalisation de ce document, l’éditeur décline toute responsabilité quant aux libellés, omissions ou erreurs que pourrait contenir le Magazine ZOOM. Cette clause sera invoquée à l’encontre de toute réclamation et le demandeur se verra opposer la jurisprudence constante relative à la non-responsabilité des éditeurs d’annuaires pour les causes sus-énoncées. Tous droits de reproduction, d’adaptation et de traduction réservés. Toute reproduction même partielle ainsi que l’enregistrement à des fins professionnelles ou publicitaires sont interdits et seront poursuivis en justice. Pour tout renseignement, s’adresser à C2M. Les photographies utilisées dans les encarts publicitaires ont été fournies par les annonceurs sauf mention particulière et leur copyright relève de leur responsabilité. Dépôt légal : avril 2009 Map of the area & places of interest to visit 26 mini glossary 32 See advertisement page 25 editorial La Rochelle is without a doubt the most beautiful and the most unspoilt town along the Atlantic coastline, which explains its popularity not only with visitors from all horizons but also with its inhabitants. Whether you’re attracted by the Medieval to Renaissance architecture of the old town of La Rochelle, its harbour, boats, cafés, superb restaurants, museums, devilishly tempting shops, fascinating central market, its lively cultural scene all year round, or by the superb long sandy beaches and charming villages on the Ile de Ré, it’s hard not to fall in love with this unique place. With this third issue of ZOOM, our aim is to help you plan your stay here, and to discover, through these articles, some aspects of the area that you might otherwise not have imagined. zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 1 map • la rochelle map • la rochelle where to find the... La Rochelle A fortified harbour on the Atlantic coast and capital city of Charente Maritime, La Rochelle draws from its glorious past a cultural and architectural heritage that bears testimony to its maritime vocation. It is a major centre of interest and its numerous attractions and festivals keep it functioning as a local and regional dynamic centre. ourist Office T Le Gabut 05 46 41 14 68 1 ost Office P Place de l’Hôtel de Ville 52 avenue de Mulhouse 05 46 30 41 02 05 46 51 25 03 2 SNCF - Train station 08 36 35 35 35 ain Bus station - RTCR M “Vélos Jaunes” - bicycle hire Place de Verdun 05 46 34 02 22 Médiathèque (multi-media library) Avenue Michel Crépeau 05 46 45 71 71 space Encan (Conference Centre) E Quai Louis Prunier 05 46 45 90 90 La Coursive 4 rue St-Jean-du-Pérot 05 46 51 54 00 Le Carré Amelot Rue Amelot 05 46 51 54 00 Aquarium Quai Louis Prunier 05 46 34 00 00 www.larochelle-tourisme.com www.voyages-sncf.com 3 www.rtcr.fr 4 www.larochelle-tourisme.com 5 www.espacescongres-larochelle.com 6 phone calls • National enquiries • International enquiries • National and local calls: 118 008 3212 for phone or cellular, dial directly the 10-digit number + area code + correspondant number. To obtain an operator, dial: 8 3213 F or practical purposes, we have voluntarily indicated all telephone numbers in the magazine for calls made in France. Should you be calling from abroad, the country code for France is 33 and do not include the first 0: (33)5 46... transportation (also see page 5 for information on getting around town) 05 46 42 86 70 www.larochelle.aeroport.fr • Héliocéan (transfers by helicopter) Market square museums in La Rochelle 08 36 35 35 35 • Museum Histoire Naturelle (Natural History Museum) 28 rue Albert 1er 05 46 41 18 25 • Musée du Nouveau Monde (New World Museum) 10 rue Fleuriau 05 46 41 46 50 opening hours • Shops: 10-12/12.30 and 3-7 /7.30 pm, Mon. to Sat. In high season, some shops close later and are open on Sun. morning. • Banks and administrative offices: 8.30-12 am and 1.30/2-5pm Mon. to Fri. and some on Sat. morning. • Markets: The main market on the Place du Marché takes place every morning, with bigger versions on Wed. and Sat. mornings. emergencies page 2 > zoom Travel Guide N°3 • 2009 89 • Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum) 28 rue Gargoulleau 05 46 41 64 65 www.voyages-sncf.com • Samu (medical services) • Police • Sapeurs Pompiers (Fire Brigade) • European emergencies • Hospital (La Rochelle) www.aquarium-larochelle.com 0 820 820 698 www.jet-systems.fr • SNCF (French Railways) 7 www.carre-amelot.net • International calls: dial 00 + country code • La Rochelle-Ile de Ré Airport www.la-coursive.com 15 17 18 112 05 46 45 50 50 • Musées des Automates et des Modèles Réduits (Automaton and Scale Model Museums) 14 rue Désirée • Musée d’Orbigny-Bernon 2 rue St-Côme 05 46 41 68 08 05 46 41 18 83 • Musée du Flacon à Parfum (Perfume Bottle Museum) 33 rue du Temple 05 46 41 32 40 • Musée Grévin 38 cours des Dames 05 46 41 08 71 • Musée Maritime (La Rochelle Maritime Museum) Quai Louis Prunier 05 46 28 03 00 • Musée Protestant (Museum of Protestant History) 2 rue St-Michel 05 46 50 88 03 zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 3 travel tips la rochelle How to get to La Rochelle Getting around La Rochelle bicycle rentals The quickest way of reaching France from most parts of Britain is by air, though in the southeast this is rivalled closely by the Channel Tunnel London-Paris rail link, which makes the 340-kilometre journey in just three hours. The standard rail or road and sea routes are significantly more affordable, but can be uncomfortable and tiring - and if you’re just going for a short break, the journey time can significantly eat into your holiday. Getting to La Rochelle by train There are 5 to 7 TGVs (high speed trains to Paris every day that take just under 3 hours), 6 to 8 trains to Nantes and Bordeaux daily. The station is only a 5 minute walk from the centre of town. Getting to La Rochelle by car Paris to La Rochelle via the A10 (460 km / 285 miles) takes about 5 hours. Nantes to La Rochelle via the A83 (150 km / 95 miles) just under 2 hours. Bordeaux to La Rochelle via the A10 (180 km / 110 miles) about 1 hour 45 min. travel requirements Citizens of the European Union countries can travel freely in France and citizens of Australia, Canada, the United States and New Zealand, among other countries, do not need any sort of visa to enter France and can stay for up to ninety days. However, the situation could change and it is advisable to check with your embassy or consulate before leaving. Vélos Jaunes (Yellow Bikes) Information/reservations: 05 46 34 02 22 (Free for the first 2 hours. Extra hour: 1E. 8E /day. All year round from Place de Verdun May to September: Quai Valin) Cyclo Park Plage de la Concurrence 05 46 07 25 06 Bicycles or quadricycles (2 to 6 people)06 83 81 24 17 05 46 00 90 00 Scooter Elecvert 7 rue Eugène Dor Bicycles and motor scooters 06 50 20 63 96 Motive Locations Quai Louis Prunier Bicycles and motor scooters 05 46 31 03 66 Loca a Vél'Ile Belvédère Pont de l'Ile de Ré Bicycles and motor scooters 05 46 42 19 40 (The town’s transport service 24hrs/day, 7 days/week. Up to 4 people can share the taxi for the same price.) boats Le Bus de Mer (The town’s Sea Bus between Le Passeur (electric boat service between the For information and group reservations 05 46 34 02 22 (on the Sea Bus): www.rtcr.fr car rentals Ada Location 19 avenue du Général de Gaulle www.location-vehicules-17.com/ Avis 166 boulevard Joffre www.avis.fr RTCR (The town’s bus service) Place de Verdun 05 46 34 02 22 www.rtcr.fr (for timetables + maps) Océcar (for outer town transportation) 05 46 00 95 15 GIHP 17 page 4 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 05 46 42 22 00 05 46 34 02 22 old port and the aquarium and multi-media library with wheelchair access) buSES (transportation for the handicapped) 05 46 41 55 55 ABC Radio Taxi Taxis Autoplus the old port and Les Minimes - 20 min. crossing) Lebaraka 282 C avenue Jean Guiton Bicycles and motor scooters Place de Verdun taxis Abeilles Taxis 05 46 43 44 60 05 46 41 02 17 Budget 164 boulevard Joffre www.budget.fr 05 46 41 35 53 Europe Car Atlantique 158 boulevard Joffre www.europcar-atlantique.com 05 46 41 09 08 Hertz La Rochelle Airport agency 45 avenue du Général de Gaulle www.hertz-grand-ouest.com 05 46 00 93 27 05 46 41 02 31 National Citer 17 avenue du Général de Gaulle www.nationalciter.fr 05 46 29 19 00 Renault Rent Avenue Jean-Paul Sartre www.renault-rent.com Rent a Car 29 avenue du Général de Gaulle www.rentacar.fr 05 46 44 01 00 05 46 27 27 27 05 46 41 13 55 29.99 E per day* * See terms and conditions at the agency 29 avenue du Général de Gaulle - 17000 La Rochelle Tel. : - www.rentacar.fr 05 46 27 27 27 UCAR ZA Vallée Fief Rose - Lagord www.ucar.fr 05 46 00 09 99 zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 5 la rochelle la rochelle Where to stay in La Rochelle A wide range of hotels is available in La Rochelle to make your stay just the way you want it. It is advisable to book in advance from May until well into autumn. Fasthotel 20 rue Alfred Kastler - Les Minimes05 46 45 46 00 www.la-rochelle-hotels.com François 1er 13/15 rue Bazoges www.hotelfrancois1er.fr Les Gens de Mer 20 avenue du Général de Gaulle 05 46 41 26 24 www.lesgensdemer.fr > Novotel Avenue de la Porte Neuve novotel Avenue de la Porte Neuve 05 46 34 24 24 Tel: 05 46 34 24 24 Fax: 05 46 34 58 32 Set in the heart of La Rochelle’s parks. A 10 min. walk from the town centre, the Old Harbour and the beach. The ideal base for all your business and leisure trips. Private free parking. Restaurant and bar. Meeting facilities. Swimming pool. See map pages 2 & 3 1 HOTELS > Le saint-jean d'acre 4 place de la Chaîne www.hotel-la-rochelle.com 05 46 41 73 33 Hôtel saint-jean d’acre Tel: 05 46 41 73 33 4 place de la Chaîne Fax: 05 46 41 10 01 E-mail: [email protected] www.hotel-la-rochelle.com HHHH hotels Résidence de France 43 rue du Minage www.hotel-larochelle.com HHH 05 46 28 06 00 hotels Les Brises Chemin de la Digue Richelieu www.hotellesbrises.com 05 46 43 89 37 Champlain - France Angleterre 30 rue Rambaud 05 46 41 23 99 www.hotelchamplain.com Comfort Hôtel saint nicolas 13 rue Sardinerie 05 46 41 71 55 www.comforthotel-larochelle.com Superbly situated in the very heart of the old town and at the foot of the two towers guarding the entrance to the Old Port, the hotel has 60 rooms all air-conditioned with much sought-after views: on the two Towers, La Coursive Theatre, Old Port side or onto the courtyard. See map pages 2 & 3 2 Le Yachtman 23 quai Valin 05 46 41 20 68 E-mail: [email protected] HH hotels Altica Rue de la Scierie - Les Minimes www.altica.fr Masqhotel 17 rue de l’Ouvrage à Cornes www.masqhotel.com 05 46 41 83 83 Mercure Océanide Quai Louis Prunier www.hotelweb.fr 05 46 50 61 50 B & B Centre 140 boulevard Joffre www.hotel-bb.com 05 46 50 65 65 hôtel de Bordeaux 43 rue Saint Nicolas www.hotel-bordeaux-fr.com hôtel de la Monnaie 3 rue de la Monnaie www.hotel-monnaie.com page 6 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 Atlantic Hôtel 23 rue Verdière 05 46 41 28 46 Henri IV 31 rue des Gentilshommes E-mail: [email protected] 05 46 41 25 79 Ibis La Rochelle Centre 4 rue Léonce Vieljeux www.ibishotel.com 05 46 50 68 68 05 46 43 09 57 bar de l'hôtel de ville 5 rue Saint-Yon 05 46 41 30 25 café de la place 15 rue du Docteur Bigois 05 46 42 05 29 Hôtel café populaire 4 rue Ottawa 05 46 42 61 39 étap'hôtel 5 rue de Périgny www.etaphotel.com 08 92 68 04 62 bed & breakfast what's on in 2009? FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL DES TRès courts (Very Short Films Festival) 11th Edition - April 24 to 26, 2009 Held simultaneously in about 70 cities around the world, showing the best and undoubtedly the shortest of the international audio-visual film production. www.trescourt.com JAZZ AROUND LA ROCHELLE FESTIVAL April 30 to May 9, 2009 www.jazzaroundlarochelle.com SUMMER THEATRE FESTIVAL SECOND-HAND BOAT SHOW 14th Edition - July 19 to 26, 2009 “BATEAU PASSION” Performing arts, classic plays to comedies, improvised sketches and contemporary dance, street entertainers May 8 to 10, 2009 Ibis La Rochelle Vieille Ville 1ter rue Fleuriau 05 46 50 52 55 www.ibishotel.com au 33 rue thiers 33 rue Thiers www.33-ruethiers.com 05 46 34 86 06 Ibis La Rochelle Vieux Port Place du Cdt de la Motte Rouge 05 46 41 60 22 www.ibishotel.com vue sur cour 10 rue Léonce Vieljeux www.vuesurcour.fr 05 46 27 70 59 Le Manoir 8bis avenue du Général Leclerc 05 46 67 47 47 la maison du palmier 23 place du Maréchal Foch 05 46 50 31 96 MUSEUM night 5th Edition - May 16, 2009 05 46 50 41 63 la petite roche 22 rue des Fonderies la Marine 30 quai Duperré www.hotel-marine.com hôtel de l'Océan 36 cours des Dames 05 46 41 31 97 www.hotel-ocean-larochelle.com hôtel de la Paix 14 rue Gargoulleau www.hotelalarochelle.com 05 46 41 33 44 hôtel de Paris 18 rue Gargoulleau hoteldeparis-larochelle.com 05 46 41 03 59 le Rochelois 66 boulevard Winston Churchill www.le-rochelois.fr 05 46 43 34 34 les Rosiers 56-58 boulevard André Sautel www.hotel-lesrosers.com 05 46 67 42 27 le Rupella 1-3 quai Maubec www.hotel-lerupella.com 05 46 41 30 31 le Savary 2 bis rue Alsace Lorraine www.hotelsavary.com 05 46 34 83 44 Terminus Vieux Port Place du Cdt de la Motte Rouge 05 46 50 69 69 www.hotelterminus-larochelle.com 05 46 43 29 09 Tour de Nesle 2 quai Louis Durand 05 46 41 05 86 www.hotel-la-tour-de-nesle.com 05 46 41 16 68 Trianon et de la Plage 6 rue de la Monnaie www.hoteltrianon.com 05 46 51 20 59 H 05 46 41 31 22 hotels alizéa 207 avenue Jean Guiton 05 46 41 21 35 hotels la jetée sud 198 boulevard Emile Delmas www.lajeteesud.fr 05 46 42 60 85 Bassin des Chalutiers www.bateaupassion.com and puppeteers... jazz in août FESTIVAL 5th Edition - August 13 to 15, 2009 In the 17th century garden of the Musée du Nouveau Monde on the rue Gargoulleau. 05 46 44 53 46 beauregard 97 boulevard de Cognehors All around Europe, 2000 museums are open from sunset to 1 in the morning - entrance free. 05 46 27 79 80 meunier françoise 34 rue du Fief des Ardennes www.nuitdesmusees.culture.fr www.larochelle.fr mini-transat 6.50 17th Edition - September 9 to 13, 2009 05 46 34 57 76 Solo transatlantic boat race open to Classe-Mini boats. le pas des corsaires 250 avenue des Corsaires CAVALCADE May 16 & 17, 2009 06 07 22 50 73 La Rochelle's fair - floats and bands all around town. 05 46 34 91 36 LA ROCHELLE INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL 37th Edition - June 26 to July 6, 2009 LE GRAND PAVOIS 37th Edition - September 23 to 28, 2009 ducournau - baloge 50 rue Jean Godefroy la popelinière 60 avenue Léopold Robinet 05 46 44 60 10 http://picasaweb.google.com/lapopeliniere dessertine yolande 57 rue des Mathias didriche morin 18 rue Frédéric Mistral la rose des sables 12 rue Charles Lemanissier 05 46 50 96 72 www.festival-larochelle.org 05 46 27 30 10 FRANCOFOLIES MUSIC FESTIVAL 25th Edition - July 10 to 15, 2009 05 46 34 41 64 France’s top musical happening where musicians and music lovers gather to celebrate the French language in an international atmosphere. l'acanthe 9 rue Charles Lemanissier 05 46 67 39 34 http://pagesperso-orange.fr/gilles.millet/ les alizés 12 rue Hoche 06 85 99 24 76 pujol françoise 46 avenue de Coligny 05 46 34 62 93 www.francofolies.fr 05 46 34 43 56 parsy odile 2 rue Bujaud 06 66 81 86 53 05 46 34 61 57 cherpin sabatier 22 rue des Fonderies 05 46 44 53 46 rechenstein florine 8 square Château Gaillard 05 46 41 86 41 www.transat650.org 700 boats, including 300 on water. More than 100,000 visitors and 860 exhibitors representing 35 countries. “Voiles de Nuit” on September 26: superb sound and light nautical show on the old port. www.grand-pavois.com AUTUMN RALLY 53th Edition - November 13 to 15, 2009 Annual car rally for First Division of French Rally. Races through the streets of La Rochelle and the surrounding countryside. www.sportautoocean.com ANTIQUES FAIR November 7 to 11, 2009 Annual antique fair held in the Parc des Expositions. Over 100 dealers and flea market sellers. Gastronomy and vintage cars. all year round in La Rochelle La belle Escale 4 rue Sur les Murs la borderie 50 rue Marius Lacroix http://verdelhan.free.fr/ This year: Jacques Doillon, Bent Hamer, Nuri Bilge Ceylan, Ramin Bahrani, the Prévert brothers, films from Malaysia and much more... www.jazzinout.fr LA ROCHELLE ADVENTURE FILM FESTIVAL November 19 to 21, 2009 At the Espace Encan. It's worth checking the Internet sites of La Coursive (cinema, theatre, concerts, danse and circus arts...), the Carré Amelot (exhibitions, concerts, cinema, conferences...) or l’Azile (cafétheatre) to see what’s showing while you're here: www.festival-film-aventure.com www.la-coursive.com www.carre-amelot.net www.lazile.org MARATHON OF LA ROCHELLE 19th Edition - November 29, 2009 arts atlantic 2009 6th Biennal - November 20 to 22, 2009 Contemporay Art Exhibition. Painters, sculptors, photographers, plasticians... At the Espace Encan. Over 7500 participants in 2008. www.marathondelarochelle.com zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 7 la rochelle aDvertisement Given its coastal location, seafood and fish are especially popular in La Rochelle. If fish doesn’t float your boat, you’ll find plenty of other dining out options including quality tradition French cuisine, Italian, Mexican, Indian, Chinese and more... L’Écoutille 16 rue de la Chaîne 05 46 41 94 84 La Marée 1 avenue de Colmar 05 46 41 19 92 Tonton Louis Port de Pêche de Chef de Baie 05 46 68 25 97 traditional & brasseries Le Bellevue Casino Barrière - allées du Mail 05 46 34 12 75 Bistr’O 16 rue des Templiers Le Lopain'Kess 6 rue Chef de Ville 05 46 41 01 14 05 46 55 35 06 Le Mail 16 allées du Mail 05 46 34 12 52 > la marine 30 quai Duperré 05 46 41 08 68 Le Bistrot de Mémé 10 rue Chef de Ville 05 46 50 67 71 05 46 41 18 38 La Maison des Mouettes 1 rue des Claires - Aytré 05 46 31 17 62 05 46 44 29 12 Le Bistrot de Rémi Massé 59 rue Saint Jean du Pérot au bon coin 22 rue Saint Louis 05 46 41 62 90 05 46 43 56 08 Le Bonheur est dans le Pré 60 rue Saint Nicolas 05 46 41 15 11 Tel: 05 46 41 28 24 An absolute must is the “Bar André”, founded in 1947 by Georges Bourdin (nicknamed Jojo), taken over by his son in 1973, who handed over the ship to the Blanc brothers in 2007. Seafood specialities (fish soup, seafood platters, mussel dishes, fresh fish, and Muscadet “Barré Frères”…). Situated on the Old Port, its dining area is a labyrinth of nautical rooms. And its salons are ideal for your cocktail parties and receptions. 05 46 41 44 53 05 46 41 27 69 05 46 41 39 50 7 rue Saint Jean du Pérot > La grand'rive 24 quai Duperré See page 11 05 46 41 22 93 à boire et à manger 16 rue des Templiers bar andré 05 46 42 05 29 Le Grillardin 48 rue Saint Jean du Pérot 05 46 41 32 51 05 46 41 28 24 05 46 52 26 69 Les Frères Ripailles Place du Marché - La Pallice 05 46 43 40 05 Les Flots 1 rue de la Chaîne > Bar andré 7 rue Saint Jean du Pérot 05 46 45 22 00 Le Food & bar 35 rue Saint Jean du Pérot Les Grands Yachts 7/9 quai du Gabut Le Bistrot du Port 5 bis rue du Port 05 46 41 65 76 L’Equinoxe 14 rue de l'Ange Gardien Les Minimes 05 46 41 03 00 05 46 41 48 19 à côté de chez fred 32 rue Saint Nicolas 05 46 41 26 85 Le Baroque 21 cours des Dames Richard Coutanceau Plage de la Concurrence seafood specialities 05 46 52 26 69 L’Épi de Blé 2 rue du Port L’Aunis 14 rue Saint Jean du Pérot Le Bistrot de l’Annexe 45 rue Saint Nicolas gourmet dining 05 46 56 01 99 L’Entracte 35 rue Saint Jean du Pérot la marine 30 quai Duperré Le Boute en Train 7 rue des Bonnes Femmes 05 46 41 73 74 La Boucherie Rue de la Scierie - Les Minimes 05 46 30 48 30 Tel: 05 46 41 08 68 In front of the two Towers of the old Port of La Rochelle, the staff of La Marine is there to give you a friendly welcome every day. From fresh fish, seafood, meats, mussels and fries to toasted sandwiches, burgers, salads and omelettes. At La Marine you will find what you fancy at any time of the day from 11:30 am to 11 pm. We hope to see you soon. See map pages 2 & 3 3 05 46 41 61 17 Le Mistral Place des Coureauleurs La Brasserie de la Plage Promenade de la Concurrence 05 46 41 41 88 La Moulinière 24 rue Saint Sauveur C. où c. là 13 rue du Cerf Volant 05 46 44 03 30 Le Nautile Hôtel Mercure, quai Louis Prunier 05 46 50 61 50 Café de l’Aquarium Quai Louis Prunier 05 46 50 17 17 ô5 5 rue des Bonnes Femmes 05 46 37 01 83 05 46 41 12 17 Les Orchidées 24 rue Thiers 05 46 41 07 63 05 46 55 73 36 La Brasserie des Dames 1 place Barentin Le Champêtre 22 rue Verdière 05 46 41 24 42 05 46 41 18 16 05 46 41 86 69 La Part des Anges 13 rue de la Chaîne Chez Lulu 19 ter place du Maréchal Foch 05 46 50 69 03 le patio 43 rue du Minage 05 46 28 06 00 Le Belvédère Pont Ile de Ré - Fief de la Repentie 05 46 42 62 62 La cuisine de jules 5 rue Thiers 05 46 41 50 91 LeS perot-quais 15 rue Saint Jean du Pérot 05 46 41 43 68 Le Bistrot des pêcheurs 2 place de la Chaîne D’Jolly 16 rue Chaudrier 05 46 41 26 95 Le Pti barrio 15 quai Valin 05 46 27 17 28 See map pages 2 & 3 1 page 8 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 05 46 41 25 16 la chaumière de saturnin 10 ter rue Saint Nicolas c'est si bon ! Le Cabanon des Pêcheurs You don’t know what to choose from the menu? Suggestion: Assiette de coquillages farcis (plate of stuffed shellfish), Entrecôte à la plancha (rib-eye steak plancha-style), Jonchée charentaise (fresh creamy cheese in a rush basket), and a Verrine de Cognac (dessert in a small glass). Another sweet? Then order L’Aumônière de pomme, caramel et beurre salé (pancake ‘moneybag’ with apple, caramel and salt butter). At the Cabanon des Pêcheurs, very close to the Old Market in La Rochelle, you can also enjoy the chic, rustic setting. Yes, you can ! H ere is a ‘fishing hut’ with a very trendy, Ile de Ré inspired, decoration. Attached to the walls panelled with untreated pine different fishing tools can be found neighbouring photographs of ancestors and country furniture: keepnets and nets, baskets overflowing with corn cobs, two toned tables and chairs, pearl grey and natural wood, a dresser filled with preserving jars of fruit and vegetables, food safes, white linen table runners, metal plaques discerning agricultural prizes, bundles of wood from vines, a corn cob screen, fences and brushwood wind breaks… One feels comfortable here, at ease straight away, due to the nature of the owner, the well named Cathy Courtois (courteous), seconded by her attentive sister Florence. In tune with the informal, but well ordered atmosphere of the Cabanon des Pecheurs, its cuisine has all the savours of French maritime produce. Frédéric, the chef, and Yohann, the sous-chef, know how to renew their menu using good local produce. Fish of course: Cocotte de raie (skate in a small dish), Champignons et sauce safran (mushrooms with a saffron sauce), Seiches persillées aux poivrons et chorizo (parsleyed cuttlefish with peppers and chorizo), Brochette de gambas et Saint-Jacques sauce vanille (prawn and scallop kebab with vanilla sauce)… But meat lovers will not be disappointed, with the Entrecôte à la plancha (rib-eye steak plancha-style), the Côtes d’agneau sauce au thym (lamb chops with thyme sauce) or, a must on a French menu, a magnificent Tête de veau sauce gribiche (calves head with gribiche sauce)! If you still feel like indulging, here are three examples of what the Cabanon has on offer: the Jonchée charentaise et sa verrine de Cognac (fresh creamy cheese in a rush basket and dessert in a small glass), the Aumônière de pomme, caramel et beurre salée (pancake ‘moneybag’ with apple, caramel and salt butter), or the Symphonie de crèmes brûlées (symphony of crèmes brûlées, four flavours)… Yummm ! Suddenly one is reminded of how thirsty one is by the sight of the pretty wine racks lined up on the wall. There are wines from the Filliatreau vineyard, notably a red Champigny with a strong, sharp, musky taste; the award winning white Saumur from the Domaine de la Paleine, with subtle tastes of dried apricots, toast, and almonds; the Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil from the Domaine des Vallettes, notably the rosé which is infinitely refreshing… Among the Courtois, catering is a family affair. Michel, the husband, runs the brasserie L’Ocean in Fouras at the Pointe de la Fumée. If you like generous seafood platters, it’s open seven days a week as from April 1st. Which isn't very surprising for fish, is it? (1) 1. On April 1st it is a French tradition among children to attach paper fish to other people's backs. info 16 rue Thiers 17000 La Rochelle Tel. 05 46 45 37 35 2 See map pages 2 & 3 zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 9 Photos by Sylvie Curty Dining out... > le Cabanon des Pêcheurs 16 rue Thiers 05 46 45 37 35 See page 9 Les Enfants Terribles 48 cours des Dames dining out in la rochelle aDvertisement going out on the town... > les perot-quais 15 rue Saint Jean du Pérot 05 46 41 43 68 Tel: 05 46 41 43 68 15 rue Saint Jean du Pérot Come and try out this original restaurant where every dish has a distinct theme (chic-choc: foie gras, océane: seafood, Parisienne: meat...) that will whisk you off your feet on a gourmet voyage full of different and original tastes and savours. Each copious plate is comprised of a starter, a main course, salad and cheese and is made up with fine, fresh produce. Les Pérot-Quais is open late every evening until 11:30 pm from Tuesday to Sunday during summer and Tuesday to Saturday during winter. La Petite Marche 4 rue des Trois Fuseaux > Quai 22 22 quai Duperré quai 22 22 quai Duperré 05 46 41 87 43 Ze'bar 13 bis rue de la Chaîne dragon & dragon plus cinémas 8 cours des Dames 05 46 41 26 82 Rue Léone Vieljeux 05 46 41 45 00 05 46 07 05 15 international cuisine 05 46 56 76 84 05 46 41 44 28 05 46 41 28 43 Le baanthaï - Thai 18 rue Thiers 05 46 44 52 61 05 46 34 30 30 Le Bodega - Spanish 21 quai du Gabut 05 46 30 55 36 05 46 50 66 08 La Boussole - Asian/international 41 rue Saint Jean du Pérot 05 46 50 50 48 Cosy, with its traditional AngloSaxon décor, the pub and brasserie “Quai 22” serves varied and top quality meals, 7 days/7, at lunchtime and in the evening. Pizzas, big salads, a wide range of meat dishes and mussels, too. Ideally situated on La Rochelle’s Old Port, a totally relaxing evening is in store for you. Sports programs shown live. See map pages 2 & 3 6 Les 4 Sergents 49 rue Saint Jean du Pérot La Rose des Vins 16 rue des Cloutiers L’Albatros - Italian 21 rue Bletterie Tel: 05 46 50 66 08 Le rupella 1-3 quai Maubec 05 46 27 50 23 complexe cgr olympia cinéma 54 rue Chaudrier 0 892 688 588 L’Abrazo - Spanish tapas 18 rue de la Chaîne See map pages 2 & 3 5 La Petite Auberge 25 rue Saint Jean du Pérot cinemas wine bars Le Dit Vin 12 rue Saint Jean du Pérot 05 46 41 30 31 05 46 41 95 64 Le Soleil Brille pour tout le Monde 13 rue des Cloutiers 05 46 41 11 42 Le Comptoir des Voyages - International 22 rue Saint Jean du Pérot 05 46 50 62 60 La Goulette - North African 17 rue des Dames 05 46 34 29 78 Iséo - Asian/international 30 rue Saint Jean du Pérot 05 46 50 07 01 Mah Monhir - Persian Market square - rue Gambetta 05 46 37 50 56 Pattaya - Thai 11 rue de la Chaîne 05 46 41 79 61 Rigoletto - Italian 12 rue Chef de Ville 05 46 41 05 00 Sri Krishna - Indian 38 rue Saint Jean du Pérot 05 46 41 56 87 Sushi Atlantique - Japanese 5 place du Cdt de la Motte Rouge 05 46 34 27 78 La Table Basque - Basque 37 avenue des Minimes 05 46 45 32 02 Teatro Bettini Accademia - Italian 3 rue Thiers 05 46 41 07 03 la coursive scène nationale 4 rue Saint Jean du Pérot 05 46 51 54 00 multiplexe méga cGr cinéma Rue Henri Bequerel 0 892 688 588 theatres la coursive scène nationale 4 rue Saint Jean du Pérot 05 46 51 54 00 carré amelot Rue Amelot 05 46 51 14 70 café-théâtre l’azile 29 rue Debussy 05 46 00 19 19 bars / cafés / pubs L'Avant Scène Before or after a show at La Coursive 2 rue Saint Jean du Pérot 05 46 41 43 04 france 1 bar On top of the France 1 boat Quai Sénac de Meilhan 05 46 50 47 32 l'académie de la bière 10 cours du Temple 05 46 42 43 78 Corrigan's 20 rue des Cloutiers 05 46 28 91 39 Fitzpatrick's irish pub 14 quai Duperré 05 46 07 77 37 general humbert's 14 rue Saint Nicolas 05 46 37 01 08 la cave de la guignette A must for an "apértif" 8 rue Saint Nicolas 05 46 41 05 75 mattaï café 12 rue Bletterie 05 46 41 45 23 La Solette Café 11 rue de la Fourche 05 46 41 06 33 Aux Tables Rondes 33 rue Saint Jean du Pérot tea rooms & coffee shops 05 46 41 31 37 Le Temple 9 rue de la Ferté art'thé 41 rue Saint Jean du Pérot 05 46 50 47 36 05 46 41 15 04 le café chocolat thé 30 rue Chaudrier casino barrière de la rochelle Allées du Mail 05 46 34 12 75 05 46 50 58 25 Le terroir 45 rue Saint Jean du Pérot 05 46 41 17 06 les cafés merling 25 rue Gambetta casino châtelaillon-plage (17km south of LR) 96 boulevard de la République 0 800 50 71 52 05 46 50 56 41 La Verdière 6 rue de la Cloche 05 46 50 56 75 d'jolly 16 rue Chaudrier La Villette 4 rue de la Ferme 05 46 41 27 03 l'escale orientale 9 rue Archimède Le Yachtman 23 quai Duperré 05 46 41 20 68 infini'thé 27 rue Dupaty page 10 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 Photos by Alexandra Duca les perot-quais casinos La Grand'Rive In the heart of the old port, La Grand'Rive's brown and grey terrace is enticing under its chocolate coloured awning. Refinement and gourmandise are also on offer. The atmosphere in the café, cosy and intimate, invites one to discover the creative menu while listening to the light sound of a piano. F rom the superb black piano near the bar to the piano (stove) in the kitchen, elegance prevails in La Grand'Rive. The harmony of the two virtuosos, the chef and the pianist, under the leadership of the conductor, the owner, gives the establishment a certain charm and identity. Monsieur Dorinet took over the ‘score’ of La Grand'Rive just over a year ago and has subtly imposed info night clubs 05 46 41 26 95 cosy club Casino Barrière, allées du Mail 05 46 34 12 75 06 87 06 52 71 le triolet 8 rue des Carmes 05 46 41 11 88 05 46 28 18 45 oxford & PAPAGAYO Plage de la Concurrence 05 46 41 51 81 his personel touch with the eyes of an aesthete, and a love of contemporary design, but also true to the classic and tradition. Here none of the decoration is superfluous, the shine of the wood and the panelled walls associated with the softness of the metal grey recalls the sea and her men better than any marine embellishment. The filtered lights of the café soften the harsh sunlight reflected by the waters of the Old Port. The outside terrace can seat 80 and heating lamps protect you from the fresh ocean winds when needed. A discreet and attentive personnel gives you the best of welcomes. From the start of the morning a quick breakfast or a coffee becomes a relaxing and refined gourmet moment. The blackboards offer the day’s menu, fresh fish, seasonal produce from the market, sharpening the appetite in the same way. Traditional salads revised by an imaginative chef, seafood platters that cannot be forgotten, oysters from the Ile de Ré, Gillardeau special oysters with aromas of hazelnuts… Authentic mouclades (mussels in a creamy sauce) - the pineau one is a delight -, meat and fish: roasted, grilled, in sauce… Let yourself be tempted by the John Dory wrapped in a banana leaf, the wok of large prawns or even the chaudraie charentaise, a selection of curried fish depending on the night’s catch. Freshness is guaranteed! Fabrice Chevalier, the chef, also excels in the preparation of makis and sushis, and his bouchées vapeur aux crevettes (shrimps steamed in little parcels), alone deserve a special tasting. La Grand'Rive can already be found amongst the favourite addresses of the Rochelais, who are connoisseurs of original and delicate flavours. Reserve your table for dinner and do not hesitate to ask for the wine list. Presented in a wooden folder it invites you to taste a Château Margaux, Pomerol, Pessac, Saint-Emilion, Saint-Estèphe, Graves, Sauternes…and also offers a selection of prestigious champagnes. For a special evening, a romantic dinner for two, a happy family gathering or between friends, La Grand'Rive is the place to be on the Old Port. Modern, but timeless. Open every day from 7am to midnight all year round and until 2am from May to September. 24 quai Duperré Tel. 05 46 41 44 53 Fax 05 46 29 49 88 E-mail: [email protected] www.lagrandrive.com See map pages 2 & 3 3 zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 11 shopping la rochelle T he small world of the early risers Text by Charles Vincent published in issue n° 13 of Charente Maritime Magazine, 2008. Photos by Kartiery the old market Two or three hours before dawn, the stalls are put up around the market hall. At the hour the night owls meet the early birds, the pulse of the town acclerates. Little by little following the rhythm of the ancient market, human exchanges warm the unique atmosphere. An early morning appointment under the ‘old market’ bell tower with Bruno Mallet, the La Rochelle markets superintendent. Shopping in & around La Rochelle 4 5 6 page 12 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 To find a shop, see the map of La Rochelle on pages 2 & 3 Le Comptoir Irlandais Irish products directly from Ireland Set up in 1987 in Brest (Brittany) by ship chandlers in love with Ireland, Le Comptoir Irlandais now has 42 outlets all over France that offer their customers the best of Ireland in terms of whiskey, beers, textiles (the authentic British brand “Barbour” in particular: a wardrobe of clothes for country pursuits), fine food and gifts. Centrally located just next to the market square. 3 .50 am, a summer Saturday morning in La Rochelle, on the square in front of the old market. The night is warm. Around the still closed covered market the stalls are already being set up. In spite of the noise of the metal frames the area is still asleep… am. Bruno Mallet, the market superintendent is punctual as usual. He has barely opened the gates before the earliest traders have already besieged the place. While he goes round the electrical installations Bruno hums to himself, greeting everybody... Following that he rapidly goes around the surrounding streets. He does a lot of kilometres opening the junction boxes, putting up the no entry signs and greeting the stallholders who are putting up their stands. “Salut Francis ! Ça va, Dédé?” The fishmongers are among the first to arrive: ice is dumped onto their stalls before being covered by products from the wholesale fish market. Pierrette, the cheese maker, lines up her crotins on chestnut leaves. She has been coming here for 34 years. Every Monday she goes round the forest picking up twigs and leaves to decorate her stall… am. The atmosphere is relaxed. Little by little about 200 stallholders take possession of their sites, one after the other, in the covered market and along the neighbouring roads. Marcel, a market gardener from Esnandes, has been coming for 49 years. He remembers when there was only a garage surrounded by fields at Beaulieu... Just like Bob, a fruit and vegetable grower in Vendée, who saw the creation of the market at the Arsenal in 1963. “Before, I set up in the rue du Minage and Place Cacaud. There were about 800 stallholders then!” Since that time the strict hygiene rules have chased away the little local farmers who sold their chickens from the corner of a table, and have put off the enterprising young… am. The night owls are the first clients, famished after a long sleepless night. They come to devour a snack at Le Chabi, the stallholders ‘headquarters’, one of the two emblematic market cafés along with La Gerbe de Blé. These are regular customers; they know that at this time of the morning they have to bang on the shutters to get the door opened… But the most courageous are the retired people with their La Rochelle is full of tempting shops. Whether it be for clothes, gifts, gourmet foods & chocolates, books... The arcaded streets of the town centre provide shelter from the summer sun or the winter rain. 15 rue Pas du Minage - 17000 La Rochelle Tel. 05 46 28 27 25 shopping bags who show up as early as 6.30am. Oh? The clock under the bell is ten minutes late… What is the bell for? To ring when it is time to pack up?... One never looks up when doing the marketing. And yet the architecture is beautiful up there, pure 1900s: delicately worked dressed stone, elegant wrought iron metal structures... The place is fascinating, one comes to delight in the witticisms and the curses, breathe in the folklore, listen to good stories... “My grand mother, recounts Monique the fish seller, came from Marsilly with her horse Coco, to set up her stall in the rue Pas du Minage.” Her family are fishermen from father to son and fish sellers from mother to daughter. The oldest families in the market can be found among the fish stalls: Rabaud, Papineau, Planchot, Ledeuil-Laporte… Bruno has a basket full of anecdotes: the down and out in the rue des Trois Fuseaux, nicknamed ‘the prayer’, who struck the pose all morning; Mélie, an historical figure who inaugurated the restored covered market with Michel Crepeau in 1993; the nights of the full moon which makes the stallholders, residents and passersby nervous... “The old market, he says, is a village within a town, a large family, where everybody knows everybody, with its quarrels, but also with its tradition of mutual aid...” In the market superintendent’s office (on the north side of the covered market), helped by his colleagues Hervé and Michel, Bruno allocates sites, hears complaints, referees conflicts, and manages his little world with diplomacy. In the markets of La Rochelle (1) there are so many colours to harmonise... 1 The abuse of alcohol is dangerous to your health, consume with moderation. Rayons Verts Health foods are always delicious at Rayons Verts ! The Rayons Verts shops were opened in response to the need to make known and available organic and health food shop produce. Their success is largely due to their rigorous selection of products, from the criteria of : the products’ safety, their compliance with regulations, as well as their gustative qualities. Open Monday to Saturday from 9 am to 7.30 pm 67 boulevard Sautel - 17000 La Rochelle Tel. 05 46 07 41 00 1. Bruno Mallet and his team manage all the markets in the town: the central market (seven days a week), Tasdon (Tuesday), Villeneuve and the Arsenal (Wednesday), Port-Neuf and the Saint-Nicolas flea market (Thursday), Mireuil, Les Minimes and the Place de Verdun (Friday), the Arsenal and the Saint-Nicolas flea market (Saturday), La Pallice (Sunday). La Pallice is the biggest La Rochelle market with 300 stallholders. zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 13 map • ile de ré map • ile de ré ile de ré bicycle rentals Ile-de-Ré is a very bike-friendly island, with 100km of cycle paths across the island enabling cyclists to avoid the roads. Ile de Ré is quite a large island about 30 kilometres long - and is a very popular holiday destination on this sunny coast of western France. It has two distinct characteristics: sandy beaches along the southwestern side, and salt and oyster beds along the north-eastern coastline. The highlights of Ile-de-Ré include lovely beaches and the towns and their attractive harbours. All facilities are available on the island (including markets with fresh local produce, supermarkets and petrol stations). Ars-en-Ré Cycland, on the port Neveur Cycles, 2 place de la Chapelle 05 46 29 20 88 Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré Cycland, impasse des Rosiers 05 46 35 08 73 Cycles 1+, rue des Iris 05 46 09 06 16 Cyclo-Surf, 26 rue de l’Église 05 46 09 99 65 Garage Boillot, 2 rte de La Couarde 05 46 09 23 17 Liberty Cycles, 19 rue Chef de Ville 05 46 00 19 42 la couarde-sur-mer Cycland, 1 rue Aristide Briand 05 46 29 06 09 Cycl'Energie, 2 rue Pasteur 05 46 30 24 98 Cyclo-surf, 16 av. d’Antioche 05 46 29 92 78 23 av. du Mail 05 46 29 57 11 Locasud, 21 av. du Peux Ragot 05 46 29 83 30 la flotte Cycland, 17 rue du Marché Cycles Chauffour, 6 cours Eugène Chauffour Cyclo-surf, 14 bis rue H. Lainé access via the bridge The Ile de Ré has been linked to La Rochelle by a toll bridge since 1988. Per car: 9 € from 12th september to 19th june, 16.50 € from 20th june to 11th september (return ticket prices - eco-tax included). Temporary season tickets available. Tel. 05 46 00 51 10 Crossing the bridge costs 2€ for motorized two-wheel vehicles and is free for cyclists and pedestrians. loix Cyclo-Loix, Place du Marché 05 46 09 65 27 05 46 09 60 25 05 46 09 51 60 06 99 53 94 79 les portes-en-ré Cycland, 2 rue de La Pointe à Chabot Cycles Neaud-Morin, 12 avenue du Haut des Treilles Pop Cycles, 17 allée des Annoillières 05 46 29 08 36 05 46 29 60 01 05 46 29 50 03 rivedoux-Plage A V L'Ile à Vélo, 05 46 09 61 42 4 rue du Comte d'Hastrel ou 06 35 72 82 47 Cycland, Les Peux de Sablanceaux 05 46 09 97 54 Fun Cycles, 203 rue Jules Ferry 05 46 09 69 39 by bus Kéolis : 0811 36 17 17 Kéolis bus service. At the SNCF railway station of La Rochelle directly to the Ile de Ré. Bus service to all villages of the island throughout the year. Timetables available on: www.lesmouettes-transports.com saint-clément-des-baleines Cycland, 154 rue du Centre 05 46 29 29 08 saint-marie-de-RÉ Cyclo-surf, 26 rue du 14 Juillet 05 46 30 19 51 Cyclo-surf, 9 bis cours des Jarrières, La Noue 05 46 30 27 40 Summer only: RTCR: www.rtcr.fr - Tel. 05 46 34 02 22 La Rochelle - Ile de Ré link - Bus-Vélo (take your bike on the bus): 1.50 € one way (to Sablanceaux, just after the bridge) saint-martin-DE-RÉ Cycland, Impasse Sully 05 46 09 08 66 Cyclo-surf, 7 av. Victor Bouthillier 05 46 09 08 28 Liberty Cycles, 21 cours Pasteur 05 46 00 29 76 LOC UP, 11 avenue Philippsburg 05 46 68 21 42 La Maison des Vélocipèdes, 14 quai de Bernonville 06 84 32 18 92 Bertrand Patrick, Chemin des Maraises 05 46 09 36 46 Yoo Too, 9 av. Victor Bouthiller 06 21 24 67 26 or 05 46 00 29 76 by boat To 3 ports on the island : Ars-en-Ré : 05 46 29 25 10 [email protected] La Flotte-en-Ré: 05 46 09 67 66 Saint-Martin-de-Ré: 05 46 09 26 69 [email protected] 05 46 29 47 17 Ré Taxi Bus Z.A. Gros Joncs - Le Bois-Plage Tel. : 05 46 09 47 33 Guided visits of the island Ile de Ré • In & around La Rochelle © C2M page 14 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 15 Self-catering residences Contact the hotels and residences directly for specific details Where to stay on the Ile de Ré The Ile de Ré is full of beautiful places to stay. Make sure you book well in advance and let us know if you enjoyed staying somewhere you did not find listed below. Le Martray HH Le Martray www.hotellemartray.com 05 46 29 40 42 le bois-plage-en-ré 05 46 09 27 00 Les Gollandières HHH Avenue des Gollandières www.lesgollandieres.com 05 46 09 23 99 05 46 29 41 20 Jerodel HHH 35 rue de la Glacière www.jerodel.com 05 46 09 96 42 05 46 29 41 20 L’Océan HH 172 rue de Saint Martin www.re-hotel-ocean.com 05 46 09 23 07 Plaisir 56 avenue du Pas des Boeufs www.hotel-plaisir.com 05 46 09 00 26 ars-en-ré Le Clocher HH 14 place Carnot Le Sénéchal HH 6 rue Gambetta www.hotel-le-senechal.com Les Bois Flottais HH Rue des Mouettes www.lesboisflottais.com Résidence hôtelière thalacap HHH Av. d'Antioche, Pointe de Grignon 05 46 29 10 00 www.thalacap.fr Les Casserons HHH / HH 14 place Carnot www.lescasserons.com Le Parasol HH Route de St-Clément des Baleines 05 46 29 46 17 www.leparasol.com HHH 05 46 29 40 04 La Ville Passagère 25 avenue du Pas des Boeufs www.lavillapassagere.net aDvertisement HH 05 46 00 26 70 la couarde-sur-mer Le Vieux Gréement HHH 13 place Carnot www.levieuxgreement.com Les Mouettes HH 28 Grande Rue 05 46 29 82 18 05 46 29 90 30 Hôtel de la Plage 28 avenue du Peu Ragot www.residre.fr 05 46 30 61 11 La Rose-Ré HHH 8/10 imp. du Moulin de Quentin www.la-rose-re.com 05 46 29 17 36 Les Roses Tremières HHHH Reservations: Route de Loix www.locations-retaises.com 05 46 29 82 57 HH a whiff of luxury la flotte > le richelieu HHHH 44 avenue de la Plage See page 21 & inside cover www.hotel-le-richelieu.com > le clos des sternes HHH 29 rue de l’Airmorin See below www.clos-des-sternes.com 05 46 09 60 70 05 46 09 50 03 Cont’d page 18 furnished accomodation HHH Le Clos des Sternes Ideally situated on the Ile de Ré, in the centre of the beautiful village La Flotte, Le Clos des Sternes is a small residence of authentic charm where Christiane Obers has been greeting her guests for 20 years now. Just a small distance from the magnificent old harbour, restaurants and cafés, safe beaches, 18th century market, Thalasso-therapy, French sailing school, tennis courts, horseback riding, bike rentals, covered market, restaurants, local shops... The calm, the lovely situation, silence, comfort, cleanliness, and charm are the qualities that make up Le Clos des Sternes *** (officially classified “3 stars”). The apartments all possess their own closed-off, private courtyard with an outside seating area, deck chairs for sunbathing, page 16 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 See our complete Internet Site: click onto www.clos-des-sternes.com for direct access to a daily up-dated planning all year long, per apartment with specific details and photos for each apartment, rates per night, for a few days or more as well as our last minute promotions. a barbecue, all equipped to the highest standards of quality and cleanliness (bed sheets, crockery, etc.). Excellent insulation, a direct phone line and television (Canal+, Eurosport, LCI, three English channels and a German one). Communal facilities: reception office, large picturesque courtyard with deck chairs and mattresses for relaxation, a bike shelter, a laundry room with washing machine and dryer, a closed-off, private parking lot 100m away. Possibility to have a cleaner on your departure, bed made on your arrival and towels provided. New in 2009: individual ground floor house for 2 to 6 people. Photos by Alexandra Duca ile de ré For our residents, preferential prices with our partners: Bike rentals, treatments at the Thalasso beauty salon as well as the sea water swimming pool entrance fee, hamam, sauna. info Mrs. Christiane Obers 5 rue de l’Armorin - 17630 La Flotte Tel. 05 46 09 50 03 - 06 07 55 24 73 Fax 05 46 09 95 00 E-mail: [email protected] www.clos-des-sternes.com B Le Clos Saint-Martin efore, at the Clos Saint-Martin, you already felt as though you were in another world. Today we have entered the third dimension. Where luxury, ultimate well-being and beauty are but one. Imagine... One morning you wake up on a mid-Atlantic island, in the middle of a park full of trees a couple of steps from an old fortified port, in a suite with triple views over the sea, the swimming pools and the garden... Around you a world of unbelievable gentleness, marrying sand coloured limestone, solid oak and natural linen, aubergine silk and feather pillows... You go along muffled corridors with chocolate, iced chestnut coloured carpets; you meet smiles from Sylvie, Melanie, Julien, Virginie... You arrive in the breakfast room. There, the rising sun’s rays shine through the glass roof of the ‘atelier’ touching everything: baskets of warm bread and of golden Viennese pastries from Pain Marin, Lydie’s homemade jams, of which 80% is fruit, farm yoghurts, fresh goat cheese from the Loix-en-Ré herd of goats, juice made in a juice extractor from seasonal fruit... The smell of butter and steaming coffee... In the warmth of the morning, you cross the romantic park, with its old wells and its luxuriant vegetation, the scent of which reaches the heated swimming pool; this evening the scented candles will be lit all around the pools... On the other side of the garden, in Le Clos Saint-Martin’s very new Spa (santas per aqua), a team of beauticians trained by Clarins is waiting for you for a treatment session 100% made in France. Massage, balneotherapy with bubbles, hammam, algotherapy... Oiled natural tiles, the interior atmosphere of subdued lighting is achieved by trellised screens True luxury today is having space and time. Luxurious space striped in chocolate and silver linen tones, in a deliciously timeless atmosphere. Softness of feathers, colour of the moon, interior light... Magic of the spa, perfumes of tea flowers, of oiled stones, of tropical rain. Radiant prestige at the saint of saints: Le Clos Saint-Martin. with adjustable strips, the half light gives a ‘maternal cocoon’ feeling... Let yourself be enveloped by the mist in the black chocolate, baked clay tiled shower, or by tropical rain or a sheet of falling water... In the rest room, which is softly lit by a pearl drop chandelier and lamps with droplets of water, breathe in the tea flower that opens out as it infuses... Once you have regained your serenity, jump on one of the bicycles in the colours of Le Clos Saint-Martin, go and assault the narrow back streets of the old town. Before coming back to the chocolate paradise of Le Clos SaintMartin, out of this world in space and time. The saint of saints. info 8 cours Pasteur 17410 Saint-Martin de Ré Tel. 05 46 01 10 62 Fax 05 46 01 99 89 E-mail: [email protected] www.le-clos-saint-martin.com zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 17 staying on the ile de ré aDvertisement Self-catering residences Contact the hotels and residences directly for specific details Le Galion HHH Allée de la Guyane 05 46 09 03 19 Hotel HHH Lodges & Spa La Jetée HHH 23 quai Clémenceau 05 46 09 36 36 www.lesvignesdelachapelle.com La Maison Douce HHH 25 rue Mérindot 05 46 09 20 20 Les Colonnes HH 19 quai Job Foran 05 46 09 21 58 Hôtel du Port HH 29 quai de la Poithevinière 05 46 09 21 21 La barbette 29 avenue Victor Bouthillier 05 46 09 20 27 Le Bois Saint Martin 5 chemin des Salières 05 46 09 08 90 La maison douce 25 rue Mérindot 05 46 09 20 20 Le Clos Rhéa HHHH / HHH 29 rue de l’Hôpital 05 46 09 07 16 www.hotel-les-grenettes.com Le Français HH 1 cours Félix Faure www.hotellefrancais.com 05 46 09 60 06 Route du Bois-Plage See page 23 and back cover 05 46 30 22 47 > les vignes de la chapelle HHH 5 rue de la Marne 05 46 30 20 30 La Galiote HH Avenue du 8 Mai 1945 www.hotellagaliote.com 05 46 09 50 95 L’Hippocampe HH 16 rue du Château des Mauléons 05 46 09 60 68 www.hotel-hippocampe.com > mellone locations 33 cours Chauffour www.mellone-locations.com See page 19 www.lesvignesdelachapelle.com www.hotel-lajetee.com 5 rue de la Manne - 17740 Sainte Marie - Ile de Ré www.lamaisondouce.com 05 46 09 04 11 www.hotellescolonnes.com Cocraud HH 05 46 68 29 21 les portes-en-ré l’emeraude 21 avenue du Haut des Treilles www.hotel-lesportesenre.com 05 46 29 59 54 rivedoux-plage Les Alizés 95 rue de Thoiras www.iledere.biz HH / HHHH Les Dunes HHH 746 & 608 rue du Phare 05 46 09 04 34 05 46 09 81 95 Le Grand Large HHH 154, avenue des Dunes www.hoteldugrandlarge.com 05 46 09 89 51 la Marée HHH 321 avenue Albert Sarrault www.hoteldelamaree.com 05 46 09 80 02 j.-C. Héraudeau HHH www.location-maison-iledere.fr 05 46 30 21 40 Rêve de Ré HHH 500 rue de la Fontaine www.revedere-locations.com On the edge of a nature reserve and with stunning views overlooking the grapevines, the sea and the Isles of Aix and Oléron… Your “Lodge” in the style of a small house for 1 to 5 people has 1 or 2 bedrooms, a living room, a wooden terrace... Swimming pool, jacuzzi, sauna, massages, yoga, bike hire… Stay here... and unwind ! Le Peu Breton HH 31 rue de la Cailletière - La Noue 05 46 30 61 11 www.hotelpeubreton.com Côté Océan 37 rue des Chênes - La Noue www.maisonalouer-iledere.com 05 46 01 98 09 06 11 68 00 99 Mr & Mrs Héraudeau Res.: 16 rue de la République 05 46 30 21 40 Le Petit Bois HHH 14 rue de la Morande 05 46 30 07 97 www.location-maison-iledere.fr www.residence-petitbois.com Le Petit Village HH Stéphane Héraudeau 06 85 91 58 97 10 rue Lucien Favreau www.residencedupetitvillage.com Les Sablières HHHH / HHH Reservations: 2 rue Norviré 05 46 30 24 76 à l’abri des Passeroses 12 route des Pins 05 46 30 21 09 L’Escale 2 place des Tilleuls 05 46 30 21 69 www.residences.sablieres.com Les Sables Blancs HHHH / HH Res.: 94 rue de la Surveillance 05 46 67 50 16 www.location-sable-blanc-iledere.com www.abri-des-passeroses.com st-clément-des-baleines Le Chat Botté HH Place de l’église www.hotelchatbotte.com 05 46 29 21 93 les Belles de nuit Guest House 57 rue du Godinand 05 46 29 20 41 E-mail: [email protected] Résidence Les Pérouses HHHH / HHH 29 chemin des Roches Marines 06 15 93 78 36 www.iledere-lesperouses.com page 18 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 www.hotel-legalion.com Les Vignes de la Chapelle Tel: 05 46 30 20 30 HHH Odalys - Les Hauts de Route de Saint Martin www.odalys-vacances.com www.le-clos-saint-martin.com www.iledere-hot-port.com www.hotellabarbette.com www.bois-st-martin.com www.bois-st-martin.com www.residence-rhea.com Photos courtesy of Mellone Locations 05 46 01 10 62 > les grenettes HHH www.hotel-de-toiras.com a rejuvenating oasis Mellone Locations furnished accomodation HHH Just a few cable lengths away from La Flotte port, opposite the sailing school, Mario Mellone opens his paradise for holidaymakers looking for a calm and relaxing place. a night on the town... bars 05 46 09 03 30 baleine bar 4 quai Launay Razilly - Saint-Martin-de-Ré 05 46 09 20 24 le cervane Quai Launay Razilly - Saint-Martin-de-Ré night clubs 05 46 30 03 55 chai pépette 5 place Antioche - Sainte-Marie-de-Ré la pergola 05 46 29 86 21 Plage de la Pergola - La Couarde-sur-Mer 05 46 09 87 84 la chaloupe 104 avenue Albert Sarrault - Rivedoux-Plage la playa 05 46 30 15 46 Route des Grenettes - Sainte-Marie-de-Ré 05 46 09 93 49 cubana café Venelle de la Fosse-Braye - Saint-Martin-de-Ré 05 46 09 21 92 Bastion de la mer Cours Pasteur - Saint-Martin-de-Ré Aux frères de la côte Route de la Grange - Ars-en-Ré boucquingam club 05 46 09 01 20 Venelle de Fosse Bray - Saint-Martin-de-Ré 05 46 29 69 52 le 20 9 route de Saint-Clément - Ars-en-Ré 05 46 29 04 54 J ust a few cable lengths away from La Flotte port, opposite the sailing school, Mario Mellone opens his paradise for holidaymakers looking for a calm and relaxing place. Photographed a thousand and one times, Mario’s residence cannot be missed. Its hundred-year old anchor, its traditional stonework give it a typical Ile de Ré character. And behind its whitewashed walls there is a hidden paradise, a true rejuvenating oasis for all those who wish to forget daily stress. Situated around the swimming pool (heated from May to October) are four apartments offering all the comfort needed for a most agreeable stay. These ‘jewel boxes’ open onto a private courtyard with garden table and chairs and a barbeque and, according to their size, can accomodate from 3 to 6 people. There is also direct access to a superb landscaped solarium terrace. And inside nothing is missing: kitchen area, equipped with a dishwasher, washing and drying machines, shower room, wc, telephone, television, and of course, the sleeping area, with beds of 140 or 90 cm. Not to mention the essential bicycle store, that you will surely use as Mario’s house is close to everything: beaches, the port, play areas for children, the town centre and its market…. And should the occasion arise, don’t hesitate to talk to the master of the house, he will share the stories of his far-off journeys with you… info 33 cours Chauffour - 17630 La Flotte-en-Ré Tel. 05 46 09 04 11 - Mobile: 06 07 99 59 69 - Fax 05 46 09 64 66 E-mail: [email protected] www.mellone-locations.com Base Na utique Prom enad e Cour s Eugè ne Ch auffo ur Clavette Le Clos Saint-Martin HHHH 8 cours Pasteur 05 46 30 22 44 T IN SA Rue de la 05 46 35 40 32 www.relaisthalasso.com T IN 05 46 09 77 00 saint-martin-de-ré L’Hôtel de Toiras HHHH 1 quai Job Foran -M AR La Jolie Brise HHH Avenue du 8 Mai www.la-jolie-brise.com sainte-marie-de-ré Atalante HHH Port Notre-Dame Rue de la Côte Les Charmilles HHHH 15 chemin du Gros Moulin 05 46 09 20 52 www.iledere-lescharmilles.com zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 19 ile de ré Au 5 rue Thiers 5 rue Thiers Le Bistrot de Bernard 1 quai Criée 05 46 29 23 33 05 46 29 40 26 La Cabane du Fier 20 Le Martray 05 46 29 64 84 > café du commerce Quai de la Criée 05 46 29 41 57 café du commerce Tel: 05 46 29 41 57 Quai de la Criée - Ars-en-Ré Fax: 05 46 29 49 30 www.cafcom-ars.com Who hasn’t heard of the Café du Commerce, whose centuries-old walls occupy a place of honour on the port of Ars-en-Ré? This legendary establishment with its half-Western, half-Art Nouveau décor has, for more than 20 years now, made the headlines of dozens of newspapers and regional magazines, and even American ones. Le Clocher 15 place Carnot Aux Frères de la Côte Route de la Grange 05 46 29 41 20 05 46 29 04 54 Le Grenier à Sel 20 chemin de la Baie 05 46 29 08 62 K’Ré d’Ars 9 quai de la Criée 05 46 29 94 94 Thalacap Avenue d’Antioche La Croisette 10 cours Félix Faure 05 46 09 06 06 05 46 41 47 86 L’Écailler 3 quai de Sénac 05 46 09 56 40 05 46 29 10 00 L’Escale 13 quai de Sénac 05 46 01 63 37 L'escapade 1 rue Jean Henry Lainé 05 46 09 50 01 La fiancée du pirate 15 quai de Sénac 05 46 09 52 46 Le Français 1 cours Félix Faure 05 46 09 60 06 il gabbiano 15 rue du Général de Gaulle 05 46 09 60 08 Le nautic 2 rue Jean Henry Lainé 05 46 09 60 50 Les pieds dans l'eau 8 cours Félix Faure 05 46 09 45 68 05 46 29 69 52 le bois-plage-en-ré 05 46 09 29 87 La bicylette du morinand Rue Poisière 05 46 01 30 16 beau rivage 27 avenue de la Plage 05 46 00 84 15 Les Gollandières Avenue des Gollandières 05 46 09 23 99 La Grange au Puits 1 avenue de la Plage 05 46 09 31 49 La Grillerie Route de Gros Jean 05 46 09 20 72 Le Moulin à Café Rue Jean Moulin 05 46 09 86 06 L’Océan 172 rue de Saint-Martin 05 46 35 19 80 la couarde-sur-mer à la plancha 12ter cours Félix Faure 05 46 68 10 34 La Poissonnerie du Port 4 quai de Sénac 05 46 09 04 14 Le Poseïdon Chemin des Bardonnières 05 46 01 44 78 > Le Richelieu 44 avenue de la Plage See page 25 Le banc des pêcheurs 13 place Carnot 05 46 29 04 01 La Cabane du feneau Le Fenaud - Route de Loix 05 46 30 43 68 La Cabine de Bain 33 Grande Rue 05 46 29 84 26 La Presqu’Ile Place du Marché 05 46 29 66 79 chez jacky 17 avenue du Mail 05 46 29 91 11 La Route du Sel 9 place de la Mairie 05 46 29 06 83 Les Mouettes 28 Grande Rue 05 46 29 90 30 Le Saint Georges 10 quai de Sénac 05 46 09 60 18 loix les portes-en-ré 05 46 29 86 21 La Bazenne 14 place de la Liberté 05 46 29 52 20 05 46 29 82 37 la cabane de la patache 15 bis rue Patache 05 46 31 38 22 La terrasse 25 avenue du Mail 05 46 29 86 53 Au Régal de la Mer 9 rue de la Prée 05 46 29 62 66 Le Taxi Brousse 20 rue des Anneries 05 46 29 90 33 Le Chasse Marée Place de la Liberté 05 46 29 52 03 05 46 29 82 18 L’Emeraude 21 avenue du Haut des Treilles 05 46 29 59 54 Lilleau 2 rue Jules David 05 46 43 96 48 Le pergola 32 route Joachim La Salicorne 16 rue de l’Olivette Le vieux gréement 13 place Carnot Cont’d page 26 page 20 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 05 46 09 60 70 the art of giving pleasure A table that comes close to the summits, a hotel on the brink of perfection, an irreproachable thalassotherapy centre, the search for excellence is everywhere. What makes Le Richelieu different is the permanent concern for a faultless performance, for an irreproachable quality of service. But the main concern is without doubt the keyword from the master of the house, Richard Gendre: giving pleasure. DISCREET, REFINED COMFORT Fleur de Lys “Relais et Châteaux”, luxury 4 star hotel, panelling, hushed corridors: Le Richelieu, on the sea front at La Flotte, knows how to maintain its high standards. But under the luxury image it conceals treasures for comfort and a rare sense of hospitality. A ‘home sweet home’ where it is good to laze around, this hotel with an international reputation has made excellence its philosophy and the art of receiving its state of mind. Be it from a room, suite or cottage, there are magnificent views of the sea (only a path separates the hotel from the shore) or of the interior garden that provides a pleasing change of scene. Le Richelieu invites you to the land of dreams, while reception chief Annaïck Magnaud’s smile and the devotion of her team invite you to come back. RELAXED ART OF ENTERTAINING As in any large house, the sense of welcome takes precedence over all other considerations. The proof: the terrace, which Le Richelieu inaugurated in 2007, is open to passers-by at drinks time, teatime or if you are a little hungry around midday… At the stove in the gastronomic restaurant, the chef Richard Prouteau cooks up his menu full of wonders; here are some of them to whet your appetite: Sushi aux huîtres de l’île de Ré (Sushi with Ile de Ré oysters), Copeaux de foie gras fumé (shavings of smoked foie gras), Homard de notre vivier en civet de Graves, chou farci (Lobster from our fish-tank in a stew with Graves wine, stuffed cabbage), Tuile craquante au grué de chocolat et zestes de citron (chocolate and lemon zest almond biscuit)… What is not on the menu, but is offered, is the ocean, to savour with your eyes through the panoramic bay-window… ALONE at the top of THE WORLD In a spectacular yet accessible setting, the Richelieu Thalassotherapy centre offers the beneficial effects of iodine and plankton from seawater. Abandon yourself to the experienced hands of physiotherapists, hydrotherapists, beauticians, and massotherapists, for a session of therapeutic massage or a treatment for your well-being and comfort. Hydromassage bath, seaweed wrapping, lymph and vein drainage, chromotherapy, aromatherapy, Chinese reflexology, Japanese lifting, hot stone or candle massages, shiatsu, ayurveda… Smell the ‘zen’ air filled with essential oils, body and soul are regenerated in the harmony of senses and spirit. A hand treatment with caviar, doesn’t the idea just make your heart melt? Ch. Vincent Photo: Jean-Pierre Lamarque ars-en-ré 05 46 29 46 17 Le Soleil d’Ars Le Champs du Soleil La Bouvette Le Morinand 05 46 68 99 42 Chai Nous comme Chez Vous 1 rue de la Garde 05 46 09 49 85 Le Parasol Route du Phare des Baleines Le 20 9 route de Saint-Clément 05 46 09 49 85 Le Bar Basque 18 quai de Sénac Photo: Jean-Pierre Lamarque There is a good choice of restaurants on the island, catering for all tastes and budgets. Seafood features prominently of course, and your visit wouldn't be complete without a taste of the local oysters, but there are also creperies, pizzerias, gourmet restaurants and bistros. And don't miss tasting the delicious local ice cream. la flotte autour de midi mélanie 1 rue Culquolles 3 photos: Jean-Pierre Lamarque Eating out on the Ile de Ré aDvertisement info HHHH Hotel - Gourmet & Dietetic Restaurant - Thalassotherapy Centre 44 avenue de la Plage - 17630 La Flotte Tel. 05 46 09 60 70 E-mail : [email protected] www.hotel-le-richelieu.com Photo: Alexandra Duca zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 21 eating out on the ile de ré aDvertisement rivedoux-plage le M 321 avenue Albert Sarrault 05 46 35 39 44 le grand large 154 avenue des Dunes 05 46 01 65 49 le théthys 25 avenue Grand'Vallée 05 46 09 69 33 les viviers 573 avenue de la Corniche 05 46 09 86 22 Les Embruns 6 passage du Chay Morin 05 46 07 63 23 > L’ilôt 16 quai Nicolas Baudin 05 46 09 97 45 05 46 09 21 68 la chaloupe 104 avenue Albert Sarrault 05 46 09 87 84 Au Lever du Soleil 2 quai Bernonville le capuccino 270 avenue Gustave Perreau 05 46 68 03 63 Marco Polo Quai de Bernonville 05 46 09 15 92 le rivedoux 120 rue Jules Ferry 05 46 09 80 07 La Marine 31 quai de la Poithevinière 05 46 09 20 39 l'ocre doux 270 avenue Gustave Perreau 05 46 68 03 63 Le Martin’s Pub 59 quai de la Poithevinière 05 46 09 15 87 Le Perroquet Noir 11 cours Bailli des écotais 05 46 01 97 75 05 46 35 78 72 05 46 09 33 40 st-clément-des-baleines Les Baleineaux Phare des Baleines 05 46 29 09 57 Le Phare 4 quai Bernonville La cabane 9 allée du Phare 05 46 42 26 91 Le Café du Phare 99 chemin du Pas du Nord > au pot d’étain 19 rue du Marché 05 46 29 46 66 au pot d’étain Le Chat Botté 20 rue de la Mairie 05 46 29 42 09 chez marie 25 chemin du Pas du Nord 05 46 29 21 83 L’écluse 408 rue du Chaume 05 46 28 18 51 à l’ouest 6 rue Mail du Clocher 05 46 29 96 03 Le Patio 8 allée du Phare Le Gillieux 05 46 31 18 12 saint-martin-de-ré L’Avant Port 8 quai Daniel Rivaille > la baleine bleue 4 quai Launay Razilly See inside cover Tel: 05 46 09 33 40 19 rue du Marché - St Martin de Ré Traditional cuisine, based on fresh local produce, and featuring delicious crepes; you’ll be warmly welcomed to the rustic, family atmosphere of our restaurant, to enjoy your meal by the fire. A great formula that satisfies tourists as well as Ile-de-Ré inhabitants. Try our traditional galettes or, to make a change, dare “La glaude”, with caulifower, and specialities such as the “Ré” (homemade caramel made with salt from the island). Open all year, 7 days a week. Salads, grills, omelettes and hot dishes from the menu. 05 46 68 06 68 La Sarrazine 4 quai Nicolas Baudin 05 46 09 28 92 05 46 09 03 30 Le Serghi 4 quai Georges Clémenceau 05 46 09 03 92 Le Skipper 27 quai de la Poithevinière 05 46 09 20 38 La Table d’Olivia 1 quai Job Foran 05 46 35 40 32 Le Belem 29 quai de la Poithevinière 05 46 09 56 56 Le Bistrot du Marin 10 quai Nicolas Baudin 05 46 68 74 66 Bô 20 cours Vauban 05 46 07 04 04 sainte-marie-de-ré Atalante Port Notre Dame 05 46 30 22 44 05 46 30 03 55 Les Colonnes 19 quai Job Foran 05 46 09 21 58 à Côté de Chez Fred 6 venelle Fosse Bray chai pepette 5 place Antioche 05 46 09 95 95 L’Embarcadère 7 quai Poithevinière 05 46 09 21 01 > les grenettes Route du Bois-Plage See page 23 and back cover a feast at l'amphitrite Les Grenettes Les Grenettes offers you sea air in symbiosis with l’air du temps: a charming hotel and swimming pool in the pine forest, banqueting rooms and a concert hall, rooms to hold seminars and a restaurant. The restaurant L'Amphitrite treats you with a creative and tasty cuisine, stuffed full of ideas according to the rhythm of the seasons. Gastronomy with a passion. A t Sainte-Marie-de-Ré, the very welcoming Les Grenettes hotel estate invites one to stroll among the pines just 200 metres from the beach, under the legendary white light of the island, dear to local artists. For the past 40 years the family tradition of warm hospitality has continued in this small paradise, and continues to hand out its beneficial effects to a loyal clientele today. It also hosts a gastronomic restaurant, L'Amphitrite, in its midst, which takes advantage of the food press. An exceptionally good table where one is sure to be in excellent company. The décor is perfect for a candlelit dinner: a trendy setting of glass and concrete, flanked by a fireplace that plays at being a contemporary work of art. Here the maître d’hôtel, like an attentive sommelier, offers a glass of champagne and some Amuse-bouche du marché (aperitif snacks) while you wait. The sea gods compel, L'Amphitrite takes more than its fair share from the sea: oysters from the Ile de Ré, Saumon fumé à l’aneth, (smoked salmon with dill); Estouffade de coquilles Saint-Jacques à l’estragon (braised scallops with tarragon); Bar au gros sel et savours de Havane (Sea bass, sea salt and Havana flavours); Homard européen aux épices (European lobster with spices); Pastilla de homard aux mangues (Lobster pastilla with mangoes)… For meat eaters, back to dry land, and an appetising menu: Crème de topinambour aux truffles et à l’huile d’Argan (cream of Jerusalem artichokes with truffles and Argan oil); œufs brouillés aux truffles (scrambled eggs with truffles); Escalope de foie gras de canard maison au pain d’épices (an escalope of homemade duck foie gras asparagus carpaccio with parmesan cheese); Assiette d’agneau pascal, fricassée de légumes de printemps (plate of Easter lamb, fricassée of spring vegetables)…Cheese break with the Mottin charentais à la confiture de cerises et sa petite salade à l’huile de noix (small Charentais cheese made from cows’ milk, with cherry jam and a small salad with walnut oil), before going on to L'Amphitrite’s divine desserts: Soufflé glacé aux fruit de la passion (passion fruit iced soufflé), Dame chocolat mandarine (small chocolate and mandarin cakes); Nougat glacé au coulis de framboise (iced nougat with raspberry sauce); Tarte tatin et sa crème anglaise (upside-down apple pie with custard)… There is no need to mention that the chef Gérard Gravier (who has worked for stars - Michelin stars that is - such as the restaurants Julius, La Perouse, Le Comte de Gascogne…) and his cooks ‘work’ with fresh, seasonal, local produce, to concoct a modern cuisine which has a local flavour, with a mastery that leaves one flabbergasted. Relax and let your taste buds delight in the sea air: you are at Les Grenettes. info 05 46 30 22 47 Photos courtesy of Les Grenettes page 22 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 with gingerbread); Foie gras et son carpaccio d’asperges au parmesan (Foie gras and Route du Bois-Plage - BP 9 17740 Sainte-Marie-de-Ré Tel. 05 46 30 22 47 Fax 05 46 30 24 64 [email protected] www.hotel-les-grenettes.com zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 23 ile de ré aDvertisement Text by Charles Vincent the old lighthouse tower Photos by Kartiery the fair-trade label Logis du Pertuis the oldest of the baleines Far off through the mist, one can see the Haut-banc du Nord lighthouse, lost in the middle of the crashing waves. In the Multimedia Museum installed at the foot of the old tower, Jamy Gourmaud, the ‘Tintin’ of French television journalists is bustling about. Visitors throng to the park’s shop in winter as in summer. Welcome to Les Baleines Lighthouse, which watches over its elder from the top of its 57 metres. Three lighthouses warn ships about the north point of the Ile de Ré and the formidable rocks that lie just beneath the surface of the water. On the shore there is the tall Baleines lighthouse (1849-1854). It is octagonal, built of blue granite and limestone, is 57 meters high, with a beam which can be seen 50 kilometres away, and is one of the most powerful on the Atlantic coast. Out to sea, the Haut-banc du Nord lighthouse, also called Les Baleineaux lighthouse, built at the same time, reaches 29.50 metres. Between the two, the old pre-existing 23-metre lighthouse tower built in 1682 was renovated in 2007, at the same time as the building at its foot. This, originally intended for the storage of fuel for the tower (fish oil, then coal) became the old school for the lighthouse keepers after the war, and now houses an original multimedia museum, a visit to which is even cheaper than one to the cinema. A visit to the Baleines museum takes place with a virtual guide, who is none other than Jamy Gourmaud, the presenter of the scientific television programme for the general public, C’est pas sorcier (It’s dead easy !). In his own way, at the same time both amusing and educational, the Tintin of television journalists plunges the visitor into the adventure of the lighthouses, by the way of screens activated by red push buttons at child height. We so learn, amongst other things, that the lighthouses were, in the past, simple towers with braziers at the top which page 24 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 were keep alight; these were replaced in the 18th century by whale oil lamps and then by paraffin oil lamps. The range of the lights was increased by the use of parabolic mirrors, which were in turn increased by the invention of the Fresnel lens (by Augustin-Jean Fresnel in 1822). From then on, lighthouse optical systems have not stopped improving, notably with the arrival of electricity at the end of the 19th century... There are a thousand treasures in the lighthouse shop to make young and old alike dream: plenty of books at friendly prices, wooden pirate swords, models of boats, posters or scale models of all the French lighthouses, shells and ornaments on the theme of the sea... There are two permanent exhibitions at the foot of the tower: 1900s postcards about the lighthouse and its surroundings, and photographs of the former ferry crossings and the construction of the bridge. Fascinating. The oldest lighthouse in France – maybe even Europe – after Cordouan (1611), the old Baleines tower could have its panoramic lantern restored. In any case “We’re considering it”, confirms Dominique Magord, the site director. This would duly complete the restoration of the oldest of the Baleines, classified as a Historical Monument in 1904. The local know-how of the Logis du Pertuis has no need of preconceived ideas to invent top of the range houses. W “ e work à la carte to ensure that our clients’ projects are as close as possible to their dreams.” Thus Michel Gérarduzzi emphasises the haute-couture expertise of the Logis de Pertuis: roof terrace, interior atrium with trees, roughcast wall coatings, contemporary design, decoration adapted to a Louis 15th chest of drawers... depending on the demands of the all important client, a house with a Logis de Pertuis signature can be a one off. It goes without saying that it would be of irreproachable quality and built to last. The other essential commitment of this prestigious company is sustainable development. Its bioclimatic show house in Royan concentrates on what is best in the matter of energy performance: photo-voltaic solar panels, solar water-heater, Monomur bricks with narrow joints, ventilation by a puits canadien (an earth/air heat exchanger), an air/water heat pump, double flow CMV, shutter adjustment solar captors, a cooling pool, water economy taps, movement captors to manage the extinction of lights, automatic garden watering by the drip method using saved rain water… All this for a heating bill divided by four! As sustainable development rhymes with fair trade, Logis de Pertuis has not forgotten the ‘low’ budgets. In these times of crisis - that needs to be underlined - even the models at the bottom of the range integrate the main principals in the brands specifications: the orientation is optimised, large bay windows, high performance bricks, underfloor ventilation space, taps with ceramic washers… The conception is original and audacious, the construction is perfect, building materials are innovative, with modern, state-of-the-art technology : to all these exemplary qualities, Logis de Pertuis houses add an aesthetic quality that respects the local charter on architecture and landscaping. And the company guarantees truly personalised service for all its models: help with finding the finance, choice of land visualised thanks to Geoportail, successive preliminary drawings of plans, assistance in dealing with administrative and financial calculations. The cherry on the cake: the six Logis du Pertuis agencies are local, and that's what really makes the difference! Photos courtesy of Logis du Pertuis individual house builder Tel. 05 www.logis-du-pertuis.com info Ticket price: to climb the tower and visit the museum: 5 E (adults) or 2.50 E (children) Contact: 05 46 29 18 23 - www.lepharedesbaleines.fr - See map page 14. 46 87 03 07 Registered Office: rochefort - Ile d'Oléron: SAINT-pierre & grand-village - LA ROCHELLE - ROYAN - SAINTES zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 25 further away aDvertisement Aulnay further away A church representative of Saintonge Romanesque art (beginning of the 12th century). Brouage Fortified citadel of the 17th century. Fort Boyard Construction began under Napoleon in 1801, but unfortunately wasn’t finished until 1857 - by which time the range of cannons had increased, and the fort was utterly redundant. Since 1990, hosts a game show of the same name, remade across the globe. Jonzac visits & discoveries In Jonzac the magnificent Renaissance chateau watchs over the land issued from a nourishing river. Where the ancestral know-how of the winegrowers and the millers mingles with a world of leasure dedicated to the pleasures of water; salutary and fun. Bienvenue to this lovely corner of France where la vie est belle. jonzac 14th and 17th century chateau. Thermal town. See page 27. marais poitevin Pays rochefortAIS Tours, activities, discoveries and gastronomy. For further details, see the official web site of the Rochefort Area Tourist Office: www.paysrochefortais-tourisme.com Also see page 31 rochefort Maritime Arsenal: National Naval Museum, Corderie Royale (Rope Factory), Rebuilding of the Hermione (frigate built in the Rochefort Arsenal in 1780). Town centre: Pierre Loti’s House, Hôtel Hèbre de Saint-Clément (both classified “Musée de France”), Commerces d’Autrefois (Museum of old shops), Begonia Greenhouse (1,500 species and varieties), the unique Transporter Bridge, a masterpiece of metallic architecture built in 1900... port des barques / ile madame Ecomuseum and aquaculture farm. fouras Seaside resort. On the right bank of the Charente river. 11th century Fort Vauban, Regional museum, Fort Enet. Departures for the Ile d’Aix. echillais 12th to 15th century Romanesque church. ILE D'AIX Musée Napoléon, Musée Africain, Liédot Fort, Maison de la Nacre, beaches and rocky coves. page 26 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 marennes France’s first site for oyster culture. St-Pierre church. pons Medieval monuments. Usson Renaissance chateau. ile d'oléron Joined to the continent by a bridge, long beaches lined with dunes, maritime pine forests, small ports and charming villages. royan 50’s seaside resort and Coubre forest. Beaches with fine sand of the Côte Sauvage (wild coast). saintes Gallo-Roman town, Arc de Romanesque churches, abbey. Triomphe, arenas, Jonzac’s Renaissance chateau. L ess than an hour from Bordeaux and Cognac, just a few cable lengths from the Gironde estuary and the Royan beaches, Jonzac is now an essential tourist stop in Charente Maritime. A lovely corner of France with as much sun as the Mediterranean, where it is pleasant to stop in the shadow of the Chateau, or on a café terrace to have a café-crème and croissants. As far as outings are concerned, Jonzac and its region have more than enough to occupy weekends and even holidays. The old town, ‘bénie des dieux’ (blessed by the gods) as the inhabitants say, has more than one beauty to present: a Renaissance chateau classified as an historical monument, carefully preserved medieval alleyways, the thousand year old lower town full of mysteries, a charming Italianate theatre, a fascinating archaeological site, a river (the Seugne) which invites pastoral laziness… The Jonzac market, in the market hall which is as young as the Eiffel Tower, opens its gates four times a week throughout the year; its stalls overflow with seasonal produce, fruit and vegetables, cheeses and foie gras… As for the two mills, water and wind, they have been put back into service and produce flour and walnut oil, as in the past, under the public gaze. And don't miss the Maison de l'énergie which relates the wondrous story of Jonzac’s urban heating as well as Saint-Jean d'Angély Rich architectural inheritance. Benedictine abbey-church towers. Haussan hotel – Pilori fountain. Clock Free visit of the Château every Wednesday at 4 pm in July and August & all year round at the Tourist Office, a free brochure in English on walks around Jonzac is available. tower, La Palmyre Zoo Over 1600 animals. The most visited zoo in France. Antilles Aquatic Centre. Open all year round, 7/7. various energy-related topics from a concrete yet playful angle (entrance free). If you have itchy feet, leave Jonzac, adventure into the heart of the Haute-Saintonge and immerse yourself in the landscapes of vineyards, forests and Romanesque churches. The Route européenne du Cognac, du Pineau et des vins de Pays charentais (the European route of Cognac, Pineau and wines from the Pays charentais), in particular, leads you into the tasting tours, to discover the traditions of our wine growers and the ancestral stills of our home distillers. It is impossible to stay in Jonzac without taking advantage of the element that gave birth to it: water. It is omnipresent. From the river to the Antilles Aquatic Centre (open all year round 7/7), from the leisure centre to the thermal baths created out of superb stone quarries, passing by the subterranean table, the water of which is famous for its therapeutic virtues. Water, c’est la vie and c’est magnifique ! info Tourist Office 22 place du Château - 17500 Jonzac Tel. 05 46 48 49 29 Fax 05 46 48 51 07 E-mail: [email protected] www.jonzac.fr Site en Scène Festival, Jonzac, 2008. Photos © CDCHS / V. Sabadel Barge outings on the canals through the marshes. zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 27 the truffle hound aDvertisement Photos by Sylvie Curty orphée, the truffle hound “ G page 28 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 Exceptional 4-star village near the Atlantic ocean Séquoia Parc Orphée has a nose (truffe) trained to dig up truffles (mushrooms). But you must not take her for an idiot (une truffe): all work merits a reward - a piece of cheese! Unlike pigs, she is not a truffivore, but an excellent truffle hunter (truffière). And totally devoted to her master trufficulteur Charles Lasalle. Go find it Orphée ! o on, find it ! Find it, Orphée ! ” In his truffle ground at Jarnac-Champagne near Pons, Charles Lassale’s eyes do not leave Orphée, his labrador, for a second. Of course she is not a Lagotto Romagnolo (the Rolls Royce of truffle hounds), but her muzzle is still a nose worth its weight in gold. The experienced dog advances rapidly, nose to the ground. Suddenly she stops, marks the ground with her paw for an instant and then digs up a truffle with a rapid movement. When it is buried deeper, it has to be got out with the help of a small mattock called a ‘truffadou’ or ‘cavadou’. After having rewarded Orphée with a piece of cheese, Charles picks up the truffle and estimates its weight to be about 100 or 120 grams, a good size for the beginning of the season (we are in May). Then he lifts it to his nose: “It is fragrant, but not quite ripe.” It has a typical smell: of damp undergrowth, peppery mould... It is a Tuber aestivum, also named the “SaintJean truffle” with its white marbled flesh. Charles planted his truffle ground with young oaks in straight lines, in places green oaks with ‘olive leaves’, in others oaks with ‘holly leaves’. Charles sowed his mycorhized acorns (1) in 1980, but did not get his first harvest until seventeen years later : “The patience and wisdom of the trufficulteur are proverbial !” he says. His experienced eye knows where to find the truffles: “You see the areas where the grass is dying? We call that the burns, that’s where they are hiding…”. But the eye is not enough; only Orphée’s sense of Photos courtesy of Séquoia Parc A golden nose Text by Charles Vincent published in issue n° 13 of Charente Maritime Magazine, 2008. smell is capable of choosing those that are ripe enough to be ‘cavées’ (picked up, dug up). In the kitchen of his manor house, Domaine des Tonneaux, built by his great grand father in 1850, Charles Lassalle reveals the secret of the truffle omelette (2) ; as well as the recipes for truffle butter, truffle cream, truffle oil ... The Charente-Maritime Truffle Association, of which he is president, gathers together some 150 members (3 to 400 hectares of truffle grounds). They all use dogs. Pigs are also excellent truffle hunters, but they are inconvient as they are cumbersome, unkempt, and above all, too greedy! As for the legendary hunting technique ‘à la mouche’ from Perigord (3), nobody has ever tried it around here … Charles strokes Orphée with tenderness. If he is happy when he fills his basket in the truffle grounds, it's not the crop that counts the most : “As hunters often say, the interest is to watch one’s dog working!” Orphée’s daughter, Esra, 4 months old, is going to be trained this summer. Her mother has a caramel coat, whereas Esra is black. Like the queen of the truffles, the black diamond, the superb Tuber melanosporum (4). 1. The process that consists of putting the acorns into truffle juice to make their roots grow before planting them. 2.Put 8 fresh eggs and the truffles in an airtight container for 48 hours (like all fatty substances, eggs absorb the flavour of the truffles). An hour before cooking the omelette beat the eggs with 3 tablespoons of milk, 1 teaspoon of cognac, salt, pepper and 20 grams of grated truffle. 3. The Suilla gigantean, a small elongated fly with orange eyes, commonly called ‘truffle fly’, is attracted by the smell of the ripe truffle and lays her eggs above them. She enables the truffle hunter to localise the truffles. 4. The Tuber melanosporum, commonly called the black truffle from Périgord, has a very strong smell, and is found in Dordogne, the Lot, and in the South-East of France. In the Charente-Maritime, a quiet, unspoilt and lesser known part of France, lies Séquoia Parc, a magnificient 110 acre domaine where nature flourishes under the blue skies of the Atlantic coast. Castel camping Séquoia Parc is a wonderful destination for a relaxing and invigorating holiday where family and friends will find harmony and well-being. Getting there by car I n the heart of the Marennes-Oléron basin, the magnificent domain of La Josephtrie has become, under the direction of Renato and Nicole Pennino Kramer, a privileged holiday resort. It now serves as the setting for the Castel camping site Séquoia Parc, a luxurious, four-star complex. The chateau, built in 1852, has many outbuildings, in which are housed the reception, minigrocery, restaurant, video games room, children’s club... while the comfortable cottages and chalets of different sizes are spread over, and in, the surrounding fields and woods. In these climes, between the pony club, the tennis courts and the sports grounds, the possibilities to enjoy oneself are numerous. There is even a mini-farm for the great pleasure of children, with rabbits, goats, geese, turkeys, chickens… Not forgetting enchanted setting of the aquatic complex where some can relax in the shade of the palm trees and tropical plants, while others can enjoy themselves with the toboggans and water games. The ideal place for a restful and relaxing stay, which is livened up by the animated evenings, a gastronomic restaurant, and a bar with its house cocktails. From Séquoia Parc, you can set out to explore, in every direction, the numerous attractions of this enticing region: Ile d’Oléron’s stunning beaches and its wild coastline; the marshes, haunts of many migrating birds; the fortifications (Brouage, Fort Louvois, Fort Boyard); or La Coubre forest, with all its hiking trails and bike paths. info Easy motorway access Whether you're coming from the north or the south the A10 motorway (autoroute) passes by Saintes. Take the Saintes exit and follow signs for Ile d’Oleron on the D 728. Pass through Saint-Just de Luzac village and turn right after the silo. Saintes - Séquoia Parc : 35 kms La Josephtrie 17320 Saint-Just Luzac Tel. 05 46 85 55 55 Fax 05 46 85 55 56 www.sequoiaparc.com zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 29 ile d'aix creeks and inlets Bike ride on the Ile d'AIX creeks and inlets Text by Charles Vincent published in issue n° 11 of Charente Maritime Magazine, 2006. In ancient times, Aix was inhabited by monks and birds. Then History, jealous of the island’s simple happiness, came to torment it. At stake in rivalries between kings, it became a fortress, which was one day laid waste by the English. Napoleon I made it his home, insubordinate priests their charnel house, the Bomarsund Russians and the FLN Algerians their prison. And the artillery captain, Choderlos de Laclos, finished his “Liaisons dangereuses” (1) there. Today, even though its enchanted creekbeds attract hordes of tourists in summer, a palpable peace reigns again. Come in May; there’s not a living soul. Except that of the island... page 30 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 Photos by Peggy Landon F riday, May 5th, 2006, 10.35a.m. From the bridge of the “PierreLoti”, Fouras and the Pointe de la Fumée disappear into the distance, and the exhaust fumes of our ferry mix with the wind and the spray. The massive outline of Fort Enet has hardly faded in the ferry’s wake when one can already make out, on the quay of the island, below its fortifications, the friendly silhouette of our guide on his bike. Pierre Privat (2) is a direct descendant (on his mother’s side) of one of the oldest Aix families (middle of the XVIIth century), to which the sixty-odd tombs in the Jamblet cemetery bear witness. We couldn’t wish for a worthier guide. First step: to rent bikes; they’re less picturesque than a carriage, but are quicker and will go anywhere. Pierre advises us to visit Olivier & his team, the ‘bike pros’ on the island. Firmly in the saddle, we leave the village passing by the church door. The mild, May weather is ideal for a bike ride without suffering from the heat. At Les Ormeaux we make a halt; there, somewhere in the vicinity of “Charlemagne’s house”, Pierre Privat shows us the invisible vestiges of a monastery built by the Benedictines around 800 AD. At that time, life on the island must have been as peaceful as it is now, but later the island had its share of suffering, as during the invasion by the English in 1757, which saw houses and crops destroyed and the church of Saint-Martin sacked. “The English behaved like brutes here”, says our guide, almost sadly, as if the island were part of him. Spare the rod and spoil the child; in evoking an insular life, Pierre Privat is taking a gentle dig at human shortcomings, which are the same everywhere. “It’s a bit like Corsica here; 257 people on the electoral rolls for 200 inhabitants (3), who spy on each other out of the corner of their eye. There are those who go to church and then the others, those of the Left and those of the Right... On a rock of 3km long, inevitably, one is always unhappy about something or other. Although one may be a homebody, one runs to the Mayor for the slightest thing”. However, it’s true that there’s not a policeman on the island... We ride around the northernmost part of the island, glancing nostalgically at Fort Coudepont, which lost its “magician-gardener” last year (4). Then we pass the Anse des Sables Jaunes (Yellow Sands Cove), previously called the Anse de la Source (the Spring), supplier of stone for the construction of Fort Boyard. Oh, nature’s really stunning around here! These deep creeks resemble Mediterranean calanques; under these rocky promontories the transparent water is as blue as in more southern seas, and the path, which winds along under the green oaks, playing hide-and-seek with the light, makes one regret not being a painter... Pierre Privat brings us back to earth: “They would like to make the island of Aix a tourists’ paradise. That’s all very well, but one must measure the impact of this on local life. In summer, we have up to 300,000 visitors on our 129 hectares; sometimes you’d think yourself on Mont-SaintMichel!” It is true that between two tourist seasons the grass has hardly time to grow back, rather like after the Huns passing through... A deafening sputtering makes us look up: “That’s the Civil Security helicopter from Laleu”, remarks our guide. “This helicopter and the S.N.S.M. (2) team between them ensure there’ll never be a problem in case of emergency on this rock!” We detour from the track to visit the old Saint-Eulard battery, or what remains of it: vestiges of walls overgrown by vegetation in the manner of a Khmer temple in the Cambodian jungle. Back in the village again, we swing by the abbey that belonged to the Cluny monks, where the striking XIth century crypt served for many years as an ossuary of the remains of 300 priests deported during the Revolution. Difficult to imagine that this charming island, with which we have just fallen in love, has known such painful episodes in the past... It’s already 2.50p.m. To our regret, we go to the quay to wait for the “exiles” ferry. Before returning to his islander’s occupations, Pierre Privat has just enough time to point out a curious metallic ramp on the roof of one of the village houses. It’s “Jeanne’s tooth”, another story... 1. Read “L’Histoire de l’ile d’Aix”, by Pierre-Antoine Berniard (Éditions Bordessoules). 2. Pierre Privat is well-known on the island of Aix because he’s involved in many associations there, as well as on the mainland. Since 2001 he’s been the Aix correspondent of the paper “L’Hebdo de Charente-Maritime” (Charente-Maritime Weekly), in which he has had published more than 500 articles. He has also, moreover, taken over the presidency of the Aix sea-rescue station of the S.N.S.M. (National Society of Sea-Rescue). He is the co-author (with Raymond Loedec) of a magnificent book, published in 2004 (Éditions Rubella), entitled: “Autrefois... l’ile d’Aix” (The Island of Aix as it once was). 3. Smallest commune in France (in 2006). 4. Paul Pécherat. Read “Athanor or Priape's garden”. Charente-Maritime magazine n° 6 and n° 10. 5. “A collection of the bones of the rebellious priests who died in 1793 on pontoons anchored off Aix, was put in the church’s crypt by Admiral Louis Maudet, mayor of the island in 1888-90 (...). At the beginning of the ‘70s, these bones were reverently regrouped near the high altar”. Pierre-Antoine Berniard. Acces to the island All year round from Fouras (30km south of La Rochelle) by the Service Maritime de l'Ile d'Aix. Tel. 0 820 16 00 17 (0,12€/min.) - www.service-maritime-iledaix.com Croisières Inter Iles - www.inter-iles.com - Tel. 0 825 135 500 (0,15€/min.) Departures from La Rochelle du 9 April to 31 October From Sablanceaux (Ile de Ré) from April 9 to 30 September Navipromer (1st April - 30 September) Departures from La Rochelle: www.navipromer.com - Tel./Fax 05 46 01 52 96 & 06 08 31 04 62 Also from the Ile d'Oléron, Rochefort, Port des Barques. See www.iledaix.fr Bike hire available on the island. zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 31 Mini glossary Even if you insist that your French is nonexistant, just saying ”Bonjour” and “Merci” and making the effort to try and say a few words will most definitely get you a smile and, who knows, after a few days, you might find yourself chatting away with the boulanger! UK > FR FR > UK THANK YOU > M E R C I Please Good morning/afternoon Good-bye S’il vous plaît / S’il te plaît Bonjour Au revoir Hello/Hi/'Bye Salut How are you? Comment allez-vous ? Very well thank you. Très bien, merci. Thank you very much. Merci beaucoup. No thank you. I don’t speak French very well. Do you speak English? I come from ... Is it far [to walk] [to drive]? What time does it open/close? I reserved a room for ... nights. We are leaving tomorrow. Before midday Non merci. Je ne parle pas très bien français. Parlez-vous anglais ? Je viens de ... C’est loin [à pied] [en voiture] ? À quelle heure c’est ouvert/fermé ? J’ai réservé une chambre pour ... nuits. Nous partons demain. Avant midi Can we have the bill please? L’addition s’il vous plaît. Does this bus go to ... Est-ce que ce bus va à ... At what time is the last bus? Where can I rent a car? Could you please call a taxi for me? To the railway station. Where can I find a newspaper in English? page 32 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 ONE TWO THREE FOUR FIVE SIX SEVEN EIGHT NINE TEN ELEVEN TWELVE THIRTEEN FOURTEEN FIFTEEN SIXTEEN SEVENTEEN EIGHTEEN NINETEEN TWENTY TWENTY-ONE... THIRTY FOURTY FIFTY SIXTY SEVENTY EIGHTY NINETY ONE HUNDRED THOUSAND À quelle heure est le dernier bus ? Où est-ce que je peux louer une voiture ? Pourriez-vous m’appeler un taxi s’il vous plaît ? À la gare. Où est-ce que je peux trouver un journal en anglais ? HIGH TIDE LOW TIDE MARÉE HAUTE MARÉE BASSE RAIN SUN CLOUDS COLD/HOT PLUIE SOLEIL NUAGES CHAUD/FROID 50° Farenheit (thereafter, add 9° F for every 5° C) A space or a full stop is used in French where English places a comma : English: 1,000.50 French: 1.000,50 10° Celcius 1 ounce 1 pound 1 stone 28,35 grammes 0,453 kilogramme 6,348 kilogrammes 1 pint 1.7 pints 0,57 litres 1 litre 1 foot 1 yard 1 mile 1 nautical mile 1 knot 30,48 centimètres 91,44 centimètres 1.609 kilomètres 1.852 mètres 1 nœud UN DEUX TROIS QUATRE CINQ SIX SEPT HUIT NEUF DIX ONZE DOUZE TREIZE QUATORZE QUINZE SEIZE DIX-SEPT DIX-HUIT DIX-NEUF VINGT VINGT ET UN... TRENTE QUARANTE CINQUANTE SOIXANTE SOIXANTE-DIX QUATRE-VINGTS QUATRE-VINGT-DIX CENT MILLE MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY LUNDI MARDI MERCREDI JEUDI VENDREDI SAMEDI DIMANCHE JANUARY FEBRUARY MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUGUST SEPTEMBER OCTOBER NOVEMBER DECEMBER JANVIER FÉVRIER MARS AVRIL MAI JUIN JUILLET AOÛT SEPTEMBRE OCTOBRE NOVEMBRE DÉCEMBRE WINTER SPRING SUMMER AUTUMN HIVER PRINTEMPS ÉTÉ AUTOMNE