PRACTICAL OF INTEREST LA ROChELLE

Transcription

PRACTICAL OF INTEREST LA ROChELLE
T RAV EL
GUIDE
LA ROCHELLE
ILE DE Rƒ
MAPS
¥
2009
TRAVEL TIPS
Bike ride
on the Ile
¥
HOTELS
¥
DINING OUT
¥
SHOPPING
dÕAix
The old market
at La Rochelle
The Lighthouse
tower on the Ile de RŽ
2009
MAPS of La Rochelle
and the Ile de RŽ
PRACTICAL
OF INTEREST
La Rochelle
Map of La Rochelle
General travel tips
Getting around town
Where to stay?
What's on in 2009?
Dining out in La Rochelle
Going out on the town
2
4
5
6
7
8
10
SHOPPING
13
22 bis rue de l’Ouvrage à Cornes
17000 La Rochelle - France
Tel. 05 46 50 53 54 - Fax 05 46 44 70 10
E-mail : [email protected]
www.profileditions.com
Coordination, layout / Coordination, réalisation
Peggy Landon
Articles / Rédaction reportages
Charles Vincent
Cover photo / Photo de couverture
Kartiery
Photography / Photos
Sylvie Curty, Alexandra Duca,
Kartiery, Peggy Landon
Printed by / Imprimé par
Léonce Deprez - France
La Rochelle
The small world of early risers
12
ile de ré
The old lighthouse tower
24
in the area
Orphée, the truffle hound
Bike ride on the Ile d’Aix
28
30
ILE DE Ré
Map of the Ile de Ré
Where to stay?
Dining out on the Ile de Ré
Ré by night
14
16
20
22
Official Partners of ZOOM
in the area
Advertising / Commercialisation
Camille Le Corvic (La Rochelle)
Sylvie Tur (Ile de Ré)
Tel. C2M: 05 46 50 53 54
Copyright of all editorial contents held by Profil Editions.
Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden
without the publisher’s express permission in writing.
All documents (text, photos, graphic or other material)
sent to the magazine or editorial staff will be treated
as unconditionally assigned for publication and free of
reproduction rights. Any eventual copyright is assumed
by the sender. We decline any responsibility as to the
information detailed herein.
Malgré le plus grand soin apporté à la réalisation de ce
document, l’éditeur décline toute responsabilité quant aux
libellés, omissions ou erreurs que pourrait contenir le Magazine
ZOOM. Cette clause sera invoquée à l’encontre de toute
réclamation et le demandeur se verra opposer la jurisprudence
constante relative à la non-responsabilité des éditeurs
d’annuaires pour les causes sus-énoncées.
Tous droits de reproduction, d’adaptation et de traduction
réservés. Toute reproduction même partielle ainsi que
l’enregistrement à des fins professionnelles ou publicitaires
sont interdits et seront poursuivis en justice. Pour tout
renseignement, s’adresser à C2M.
Les photographies utilisées dans les encarts publicitaires ont été
fournies par les annonceurs sauf mention particulière et leur
copyright relève de leur responsabilité.
Dépôt légal : avril 2009
Map of the area
& places of interest to visit
26
mini glossary
32
See advertisement page 25
editorial
La Rochelle is without a doubt the most beautiful and the most unspoilt town along the Atlantic coastline,
which explains its popularity not only with visitors from all horizons but also with its inhabitants.
Whether you’re attracted by the Medieval to Renaissance architecture of the old town of La Rochelle,
its harbour, boats, cafés, superb restaurants, museums, devilishly tempting shops, fascinating central market,
its lively cultural scene all year round, or by the superb long sandy beaches and charming villages on the
Ile de Ré, it’s hard not to fall in love with this unique place.
With this third issue of ZOOM, our aim is to help you plan your stay here, and to discover, through these articles,
some aspects of the area that you might otherwise not have imagined.
zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 1
map • la rochelle
map • la rochelle
where to find the...
La Rochelle
A fortified harbour on the Atlantic
coast and capital city of Charente
Maritime, La Rochelle draws from
its glorious past a cultural and
architectural heritage that bears
testimony to its maritime vocation.
It is a major centre of interest
and its numerous attractions and
festivals keep it functioning as a
local and regional dynamic centre.
ourist Office
T
Le Gabut 05 46 41 14 68
1
ost Office
P
Place de l’Hôtel de Ville
52 avenue de Mulhouse
05 46 30 41 02
05 46 51 25 03
2
SNCF - Train station
08 36 35 35 35
ain Bus station - RTCR
M
“Vélos Jaunes” - bicycle hire
Place de Verdun
05 46 34 02 22
Médiathèque (multi-media library)
Avenue Michel Crépeau 05 46 45 71 71
space Encan (Conference Centre)
E
Quai Louis Prunier
05 46 45 90 90
La Coursive
4 rue St-Jean-du-Pérot
05 46 51 54 00
Le Carré Amelot
Rue Amelot
05 46 51 54 00
Aquarium
Quai Louis Prunier
05 46 34 00 00
www.larochelle-tourisme.com
www.voyages-sncf.com
3
www.rtcr.fr
4
www.larochelle-tourisme.com
5
www.espacescongres-larochelle.com
6
phone calls
• National enquiries
• International enquiries
• National and local calls:
118 008
3212
for phone or cellular, dial directly the 10-digit number
+ area code + correspondant number. To obtain an operator, dial:
8
3213
F or practical purposes, we have voluntarily indicated all
telephone numbers in the magazine for calls made in France.
Should you be calling from abroad, the country code for
France is 33 and do not include the first 0: (33)5 46...
transportation
(also see page 5 for information on getting around town)
05 46 42 86 70
www.larochelle.aeroport.fr
• Héliocéan (transfers by helicopter)
Market square
museums
in La Rochelle
08 36 35 35 35
• Museum Histoire Naturelle (Natural History Museum)
28 rue Albert 1er
05 46 41 18 25
• Musée du Nouveau Monde (New World Museum)
10 rue Fleuriau
05 46 41 46 50
opening hours
• Shops: 10-12/12.30 and 3-7 /7.30 pm, Mon. to Sat. In
high season, some shops close later and are open on
Sun. morning.
• Banks and administrative offices: 8.30-12 am and
1.30/2-5pm Mon. to Fri. and some on Sat. morning.
• Markets: The main market on the Place du Marché
takes place every morning, with bigger versions on
Wed. and Sat. mornings.
emergencies
page 2 > zoom Travel Guide N°3 • 2009
89
• Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum)
28 rue Gargoulleau
05 46 41 64 65
www.voyages-sncf.com
• Samu (medical services)
• Police • Sapeurs Pompiers (Fire Brigade)
• European emergencies
• Hospital (La Rochelle)
www.aquarium-larochelle.com
0 820 820 698
www.jet-systems.fr
• SNCF (French Railways)
7
www.carre-amelot.net
• International calls: dial 00 + country code
• La Rochelle-Ile de Ré Airport
www.la-coursive.com
15
17
18
112
05 46 45 50 50
• Musées des Automates et des Modèles Réduits
(Automaton and Scale Model Museums)
14 rue Désirée • Musée d’Orbigny-Bernon
2 rue St-Côme
05 46 41 68 08
05 46 41 18 83
• Musée du Flacon à Parfum (Perfume Bottle Museum)
33 rue du Temple
05 46 41 32 40
• Musée Grévin
38 cours des Dames
05 46 41 08 71
• Musée Maritime (La Rochelle Maritime Museum)
Quai Louis Prunier
05 46 28 03 00
• Musée Protestant (Museum of Protestant History)
2 rue St-Michel
05 46 50 88 03
zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 3
travel tips
la rochelle
How to get to La Rochelle
Getting around La Rochelle
bicycle rentals
The quickest way of reaching France from most parts of Britain is by air,
though in the southeast this is rivalled closely by the Channel Tunnel
London-Paris rail link, which makes the 340-kilometre journey in just three
hours. The standard rail or road and sea routes are significantly more
affordable, but can be uncomfortable and tiring - and if you’re just going for
a short break, the journey time can significantly eat into your holiday.
Getting to La Rochelle by train
There are 5 to 7 TGVs (high speed trains to Paris every day that take just
under 3 hours), 6 to 8 trains to Nantes and Bordeaux daily. The station is only a
5 minute walk from the centre of town.
Getting to La Rochelle by car
Paris to La Rochelle via the A10 (460 km / 285 miles) takes about
5 hours. Nantes to La Rochelle via the A83 (150 km / 95 miles) just under
2 hours. Bordeaux to La Rochelle via the A10 (180 km / 110 miles) about
1 hour 45 min.
travel requirements
Citizens of the European Union countries can travel freely in France and
citizens of Australia, Canada, the United States and New Zealand, among
other countries, do not need any sort of visa to enter France and can
stay for up to ninety days. However, the situation could change and it is
advisable to check with your embassy or consulate before leaving.
Vélos Jaunes (Yellow Bikes)
Information/reservations:
05 46 34 02 22
(Free for the first 2 hours. Extra hour: 1E. 8E /day.
All year round from Place de Verdun
May to September: Quai Valin)
Cyclo Park
Plage de la Concurrence
05 46 07 25 06
Bicycles or quadricycles (2 to 6 people)06 83 81 24 17
05 46 00 90 00
Scooter Elecvert
7 rue Eugène Dor
Bicycles and motor scooters
06 50 20 63 96
Motive Locations
Quai Louis Prunier
Bicycles and motor scooters
05 46 31 03 66
Loca a Vél'Ile
Belvédère Pont de l'Ile de Ré
Bicycles and motor scooters
05 46 42 19 40
(The town’s transport service 24hrs/day, 7 days/week.
Up to 4 people can share the taxi for the same price.)
boats
Le Bus de Mer (The town’s Sea Bus between
Le Passeur (electric boat service between the
For information and group reservations
05 46 34 02 22
(on the Sea Bus): www.rtcr.fr car rentals
Ada Location
19 avenue du Général de Gaulle
www.location-vehicules-17.com/
Avis 166 boulevard Joffre
www.avis.fr
RTCR (The town’s bus service)
Place de Verdun
05 46 34 02 22
www.rtcr.fr (for timetables + maps)
Océcar (for outer town transportation)
05 46 00 95 15
GIHP 17
page 4 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009
05 46 42 22 00
05 46 34 02 22
old port and the aquarium and multi-media library with wheelchair access)
buSES
(transportation for the handicapped)
05 46 41 55 55
ABC Radio Taxi
Taxis Autoplus
the old port and Les Minimes - 20 min. crossing)
Lebaraka
282 C avenue Jean Guiton
Bicycles and motor scooters
Place de Verdun
taxis
Abeilles Taxis
05 46 43 44 60
05 46 41 02 17
Budget
164 boulevard Joffre
www.budget.fr
05 46 41 35 53
Europe Car Atlantique
158 boulevard Joffre
www.europcar-atlantique.com
05 46 41 09 08
Hertz
La Rochelle Airport agency
45 avenue du Général de Gaulle
www.hertz-grand-ouest.com
05 46 00 93 27
05 46 41 02 31
National Citer
17 avenue du Général de Gaulle
www.nationalciter.fr
05 46 29 19 00
Renault Rent
Avenue Jean-Paul Sartre
www.renault-rent.com
Rent a Car
29 avenue du Général de Gaulle
www.rentacar.fr
05 46 44 01 00
05 46 27 27 27
05 46 41 13 55
29.99 E per day*
* See terms and conditions at the agency
29 avenue du Général de Gaulle - 17000 La Rochelle
Tel. :
- www.rentacar.fr
05 46 27 27 27
UCAR ZA Vallée Fief Rose - Lagord
www.ucar.fr
05 46 00 09 99
zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 5
la rochelle
la rochelle
Where to stay
in La Rochelle
A wide range of hotels is available
in La Rochelle to make your stay
just the way you want it.
It is advisable to book in advance
from May until well into autumn.
Fasthotel
20 rue Alfred Kastler - Les Minimes05 46 45 46 00
www.la-rochelle-hotels.com
François 1er
13/15 rue Bazoges
www.hotelfrancois1er.fr
Les Gens de Mer
20 avenue du Général de Gaulle 05 46 41 26 24
www.lesgensdemer.fr
> Novotel
Avenue de la Porte Neuve
novotel
Avenue de la Porte Neuve
05 46 34 24 24
Tel: 05 46 34 24 24
Fax: 05 46 34 58 32
Set in the heart of
La Rochelle’s parks.
A 10 min. walk from
the town centre,
the Old Harbour
and the beach.
The ideal base for
all your business
and leisure trips. Private free parking.
Restaurant and bar. Meeting facilities.
Swimming pool.
See map pages 2 & 3 1
HOTELS
> Le saint-jean d'acre
4 place de la Chaîne
www.hotel-la-rochelle.com
05 46 41 73 33
Hôtel saint-jean d’acre Tel: 05 46 41 73 33
4 place de la Chaîne
Fax: 05 46 41 10 01
E-mail: [email protected]
www.hotel-la-rochelle.com
HHHH
hotels
Résidence de France
43 rue du Minage www.hotel-larochelle.com
HHH
05 46 28 06 00
hotels
Les Brises
Chemin de la Digue Richelieu
www.hotellesbrises.com
05 46 43 89 37
Champlain - France Angleterre
30 rue Rambaud
05 46 41 23 99
www.hotelchamplain.com
Comfort Hôtel saint nicolas
13 rue Sardinerie
05 46 41 71 55
www.comforthotel-larochelle.com
Superbly situated in
the very heart of the
old town and at the
foot of the two towers
guarding the entrance
to the Old Port, the
hotel has 60 rooms all
air-conditioned with
much sought-after
views: on the two Towers, La Coursive Theatre, Old
Port side or onto the courtyard. See map pages 2 & 3 2
Le Yachtman
23 quai Valin
05 46 41 20 68
E-mail: [email protected]
HH
hotels
Altica
Rue de la Scierie - Les Minimes
www.altica.fr
Masqhotel
17 rue de l’Ouvrage à Cornes
www.masqhotel.com
05 46 41 83 83
Mercure Océanide
Quai Louis Prunier
www.hotelweb.fr
05 46 50 61 50
B & B Centre
140 boulevard Joffre
www.hotel-bb.com
05 46 50 65 65
hôtel de Bordeaux
43 rue Saint Nicolas
www.hotel-bordeaux-fr.com
hôtel de la Monnaie
3 rue de la Monnaie
www.hotel-monnaie.com
page 6 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009
Atlantic Hôtel
23 rue Verdière
05 46 41 28 46
Henri IV
31 rue des Gentilshommes
E-mail: [email protected]
05 46 41 25 79
Ibis La Rochelle Centre
4 rue Léonce Vieljeux
www.ibishotel.com
05 46 50 68 68
05 46 43 09 57
bar de l'hôtel de ville
5 rue Saint-Yon
05 46 41 30 25
café de la place
15 rue du Docteur Bigois
05 46 42 05 29
Hôtel café populaire
4 rue Ottawa
05 46 42 61 39
étap'hôtel
5 rue de Périgny
www.etaphotel.com
08 92 68 04 62
bed & breakfast
what's on in 2009?
FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL DES TRès
courts (Very Short Films Festival)
11th Edition - April 24 to 26, 2009
Held simultaneously in about 70 cities around the world,
showing the best and undoubtedly the shortest of
the international audio-visual film production.
www.trescourt.com
JAZZ AROUND LA ROCHELLE FESTIVAL
April 30 to May 9, 2009
www.jazzaroundlarochelle.com
SUMMER THEATRE FESTIVAL
SECOND-HAND BOAT SHOW
14th Edition - July 19 to 26, 2009
“BATEAU PASSION”
Performing arts, classic plays to comedies, improvised
sketches and contemporary dance, street entertainers
May 8 to 10, 2009
Ibis La Rochelle Vieille Ville
1ter rue Fleuriau
05 46 50 52 55
www.ibishotel.com
au 33 rue thiers
33 rue Thiers
www.33-ruethiers.com
05 46 34 86 06
Ibis La Rochelle Vieux Port
Place du Cdt de la Motte Rouge 05 46 41 60 22
www.ibishotel.com
vue sur cour
10 rue Léonce Vieljeux
www.vuesurcour.fr
05 46 27 70 59
Le Manoir
8bis avenue du Général Leclerc
05 46 67 47 47
la maison du palmier
23 place du Maréchal Foch
05 46 50 31 96
MUSEUM night
5th Edition - May 16, 2009
05 46 50 41 63
la petite roche
22 rue des Fonderies
la Marine
30 quai Duperré
www.hotel-marine.com
hôtel de l'Océan
36 cours des Dames
05 46 41 31 97
www.hotel-ocean-larochelle.com
hôtel de la Paix
14 rue Gargoulleau
www.hotelalarochelle.com
05 46 41 33 44
hôtel de Paris
18 rue Gargoulleau
hoteldeparis-larochelle.com
05 46 41 03 59
le Rochelois
66 boulevard Winston Churchill
www.le-rochelois.fr
05 46 43 34 34
les Rosiers
56-58 boulevard André Sautel
www.hotel-lesrosers.com
05 46 67 42 27
le Rupella
1-3 quai Maubec
www.hotel-lerupella.com
05 46 41 30 31
le Savary
2 bis rue Alsace Lorraine
www.hotelsavary.com
05 46 34 83 44
Terminus Vieux Port
Place du Cdt de la Motte Rouge 05 46 50 69 69
www.hotelterminus-larochelle.com
05 46 43 29 09
Tour de Nesle
2 quai Louis Durand
05 46 41 05 86
www.hotel-la-tour-de-nesle.com
05 46 41 16 68
Trianon et de la Plage
6 rue de la Monnaie
www.hoteltrianon.com
05 46 51 20 59
H
05 46 41 31 22
hotels
alizéa
207 avenue Jean Guiton
05 46 41 21 35
hotels
la jetée sud
198 boulevard Emile Delmas
www.lajeteesud.fr
05 46 42 60 85
Bassin des Chalutiers
www.bateaupassion.com
and puppeteers...
jazz in août FESTIVAL
5th Edition - August 13 to 15, 2009
In the 17th century garden of the Musée du Nouveau
Monde on the rue Gargoulleau.
05 46 44 53 46
beauregard
97 boulevard de Cognehors
All around Europe, 2000 museums are open
from sunset to 1 in the morning - entrance free.
05 46 27 79 80
meunier françoise
34 rue du Fief des Ardennes
www.nuitdesmusees.culture.fr
www.larochelle.fr
mini-transat 6.50
17th Edition - September 9 to 13, 2009
05 46 34 57 76
Solo transatlantic boat race open to Classe-Mini boats.
le pas des corsaires
250 avenue des Corsaires
CAVALCADE
May 16 & 17, 2009
06 07 22 50 73
La Rochelle's fair - floats and bands all around town.
05 46 34 91 36
LA ROCHELLE INTERNATIONAL
FILM FESTIVAL
37th Edition - June 26 to July 6, 2009
LE GRAND PAVOIS
37th Edition - September 23 to 28, 2009
ducournau - baloge
50 rue Jean Godefroy
la popelinière
60 avenue Léopold Robinet
05 46 44 60 10
http://picasaweb.google.com/lapopeliniere
dessertine yolande
57 rue des Mathias
didriche morin
18 rue Frédéric Mistral
la rose des sables
12 rue Charles Lemanissier
05 46 50 96 72
www.festival-larochelle.org
05 46 27 30 10
FRANCOFOLIES MUSIC FESTIVAL
25th Edition - July 10 to 15, 2009
05 46 34 41 64
France’s top musical happening where musicians and
music lovers gather to celebrate the French language
in an international atmosphere.
l'acanthe
9 rue Charles Lemanissier
05 46 67 39 34
http://pagesperso-orange.fr/gilles.millet/
les alizés
12 rue Hoche
06 85 99 24 76
pujol françoise
46 avenue de Coligny
05 46 34 62 93
www.francofolies.fr
05 46 34 43 56
parsy odile
2 rue Bujaud
06 66 81 86 53
05 46 34 61 57
cherpin sabatier
22 rue des Fonderies
05 46 44 53 46
rechenstein florine
8 square Château Gaillard
05 46 41 86 41
www.transat650.org
700 boats, including 300 on water. More than 100,000
visitors and 860 exhibitors representing 35 countries.
“Voiles de Nuit” on September 26: superb sound and light
nautical show on the old port.
www.grand-pavois.com
AUTUMN RALLY
53th Edition - November 13 to 15, 2009
Annual car rally for First Division of French Rally.
Races through the streets of La Rochelle and the
surrounding countryside.
www.sportautoocean.com
ANTIQUES FAIR
November 7 to 11, 2009
Annual antique fair held in the Parc des Expositions.
Over 100 dealers and flea market sellers. Gastronomy
and vintage cars.
all year round
in La Rochelle
La belle Escale
4 rue Sur les Murs
la borderie
50 rue Marius Lacroix
http://verdelhan.free.fr/
This year: Jacques Doillon, Bent Hamer, Nuri Bilge
Ceylan, Ramin Bahrani, the Prévert brothers,
films from Malaysia and much more...
www.jazzinout.fr
LA ROCHELLE ADVENTURE FILM FESTIVAL
November 19 to 21, 2009
At the Espace Encan.
It's worth checking the Internet
sites of La Coursive (cinema,
theatre, concerts, danse and
circus arts...), the Carré Amelot
(exhibitions, concerts, cinema,
conferences...) or l’Azile (cafétheatre) to see what’s showing
while you're here:
www.festival-film-aventure.com
www.la-coursive.com
www.carre-amelot.net
www.lazile.org
MARATHON OF LA ROCHELLE
19th Edition - November 29, 2009
arts atlantic 2009
6th Biennal - November 20 to 22, 2009
Contemporay Art Exhibition. Painters, sculptors,
photographers, plasticians... At the Espace Encan.
Over 7500 participants in 2008.
www.marathondelarochelle.com
zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 7
la rochelle
aDvertisement
Given its coastal location, seafood
and fish are especially popular
in La Rochelle. If fish doesn’t float
your boat, you’ll find plenty
of other dining out options
including quality tradition French
cuisine, Italian, Mexican, Indian,
Chinese and more...
L’Écoutille
16 rue de la Chaîne
05 46 41 94 84
La Marée
1 avenue de Colmar
05 46 41 19 92
Tonton Louis
Port de Pêche de Chef de Baie
05 46 68 25 97
traditional & brasseries
Le Bellevue
Casino Barrière - allées du Mail
05 46 34 12 75
Bistr’O
16 rue des Templiers
Le Lopain'Kess
6 rue Chef de Ville
05 46 41 01 14
05 46 55 35 06
Le Mail
16 allées du Mail
05 46 34 12 52
> la marine
30 quai Duperré
05 46 41 08 68
Le Bistrot de Mémé
10 rue Chef de Ville
05 46 50 67 71
05 46 41 18 38
La Maison des Mouettes
1 rue des Claires - Aytré
05 46 31 17 62
05 46 44 29 12
Le Bistrot de Rémi Massé
59 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
au bon coin
22 rue Saint Louis
05 46 41 62 90
05 46 43 56 08
Le Bonheur est dans le Pré
60 rue Saint Nicolas
05 46 41 15 11
Tel: 05 46 41 28 24
An absolute must is the “Bar
André”, founded in 1947 by
Georges Bourdin (nicknamed
Jojo), taken over by his son
in 1973, who handed over the
ship to the Blanc brothers in
2007. Seafood specialities (fish
soup, seafood platters, mussel dishes, fresh fish,
and Muscadet “Barré Frères”…).
Situated on the Old Port, its dining area is a
labyrinth of nautical rooms. And its salons are
ideal for your cocktail parties and receptions.
05 46 41 44 53
05 46 41 27 69
05 46 41 39 50
7 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
> La grand'rive
24 quai Duperré
See page 11
05 46 41 22 93
à boire et à manger
16 rue des Templiers
bar andré
05 46 42 05 29
Le Grillardin
48 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
05 46 41 32 51
05 46 41 28 24
05 46 52 26 69
Les Frères Ripailles
Place du Marché - La Pallice
05 46 43 40 05
Les Flots
1 rue de la Chaîne > Bar andré
7 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
05 46 45 22 00
Le Food & bar
35 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
Les Grands Yachts
7/9 quai du Gabut
Le Bistrot du Port
5 bis rue du Port
05 46 41 65 76
L’Equinoxe
14 rue de l'Ange Gardien
Les Minimes
05 46 41 03 00
05 46 41 48 19
à côté de chez fred
32 rue Saint Nicolas
05 46 41 26 85
Le Baroque
21 cours des Dames
Richard Coutanceau
Plage de la Concurrence
seafood specialities
05 46 52 26 69
L’Épi de Blé
2 rue du Port
L’Aunis
14 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
Le Bistrot de l’Annexe
45 rue Saint Nicolas
gourmet dining
05 46 56 01 99
L’Entracte
35 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
la marine
30 quai Duperré
Le Boute en Train
7 rue des Bonnes Femmes
05 46 41 73 74
La Boucherie
Rue de la Scierie - Les Minimes
05 46 30 48 30
Tel: 05 46 41 08 68
In front of the
two Towers of
the old Port of La
Rochelle, the staff
of La Marine is
there to give you a
friendly welcome
every day. From fresh fish, seafood, meats, mussels
and fries to toasted sandwiches, burgers, salads
and omelettes.
At La Marine you will find what you fancy at any
time of the day from 11:30 am to 11 pm.
We hope to see you soon.
See map pages 2 & 3 3
05 46 41 61 17
Le Mistral
Place des Coureauleurs
La Brasserie de la Plage
Promenade de la Concurrence
05 46 41 41 88
La Moulinière
24 rue Saint Sauveur
C. où c. là
13 rue du Cerf Volant
05 46 44 03 30
Le Nautile
Hôtel Mercure, quai Louis Prunier 05 46 50 61 50
Café de l’Aquarium
Quai Louis Prunier
05 46 50 17 17
ô5
5 rue des Bonnes Femmes
05 46 37 01 83
05 46 41 12 17
Les Orchidées
24 rue Thiers
05 46 41 07 63
05 46 55 73 36
La Brasserie des Dames
1 place Barentin
Le Champêtre
22 rue Verdière
05 46 41 24 42
05 46 41 18 16
05 46 41 86 69
La Part des Anges
13 rue de la Chaîne
Chez Lulu
19 ter place du Maréchal Foch
05 46 50 69 03
le patio
43 rue du Minage
05 46 28 06 00
Le Belvédère
Pont Ile de Ré - Fief de la Repentie 05 46 42 62 62
La cuisine de jules
5 rue Thiers
05 46 41 50 91
LeS perot-quais
15 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
05 46 41 43 68
Le Bistrot des pêcheurs
2 place de la Chaîne
D’Jolly
16 rue Chaudrier
05 46 41 26 95
Le Pti barrio
15 quai Valin
05 46 27 17 28
See map pages 2 & 3 1
page 8 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009
05 46 41 25 16
la chaumière de saturnin
10 ter rue Saint Nicolas
c'est si bon !
Le Cabanon des Pêcheurs
You don’t know what to choose from the menu? Suggestion: Assiette de coquillages farcis (plate of
stuffed shellfish), Entrecôte à la plancha (rib-eye steak plancha-style), Jonchée charentaise (fresh
creamy cheese in a rush basket), and a Verrine de Cognac (dessert in a small glass). Another
sweet? Then order L’Aumônière de pomme, caramel et beurre salé (pancake ‘moneybag’ with apple,
caramel and salt butter). At the Cabanon des Pêcheurs, very close to the Old Market in La Rochelle,
you can also enjoy the chic, rustic setting. Yes, you can !
H
ere is a ‘fishing hut’ with a very trendy, Ile de Ré inspired,
decoration. Attached to the walls panelled with untreated pine
different fishing tools can be found neighbouring photographs
of ancestors and country furniture: keepnets and nets, baskets
overflowing with corn cobs, two toned tables and chairs,
pearl grey and natural wood, a dresser filled with preserving jars of fruit and
vegetables, food safes, white linen table runners, metal plaques discerning
agricultural prizes, bundles of wood from vines, a corn cob screen, fences and
brushwood wind breaks… One feels comfortable here, at ease straight away,
due to the nature of the owner, the well named Cathy Courtois (courteous),
seconded by her attentive sister Florence.
In tune with the informal, but well ordered atmosphere of the Cabanon
des Pecheurs, its cuisine has all the savours of French maritime produce.
Frédéric, the chef, and Yohann, the sous-chef, know how to renew their menu
using good local produce. Fish of course: Cocotte de raie (skate in a small
dish), Champignons et sauce safran (mushrooms with a saffron sauce), Seiches
persillées aux poivrons et chorizo (parsleyed cuttlefish with peppers and
chorizo), Brochette de gambas et Saint-Jacques sauce vanille (prawn and scallop
kebab with vanilla sauce)… But meat lovers will not be disappointed, with
the Entrecôte à la plancha (rib-eye steak plancha-style), the Côtes d’agneau
sauce au thym (lamb chops with thyme sauce) or, a must on a French menu,
a magnificent Tête de veau sauce gribiche (calves head with gribiche sauce)!
If you still feel like indulging, here are three examples of what the Cabanon
has on offer: the Jonchée charentaise et sa verrine de Cognac (fresh creamy
cheese in a rush basket and dessert in a small glass), the Aumônière de
pomme, caramel et beurre salée (pancake ‘moneybag’ with apple, caramel and
salt butter), or the Symphonie de crèmes brûlées (symphony of crèmes brûlées,
four flavours)… Yummm !
Suddenly one is reminded of how thirsty one is by the sight of the pretty
wine racks lined up on the wall. There are wines from the Filliatreau vineyard,
notably a red Champigny with a strong, sharp, musky taste; the award winning
white Saumur from the Domaine de la Paleine, with subtle tastes of dried
apricots, toast, and almonds; the Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil from the Domaine
des Vallettes, notably the rosé which is infinitely refreshing…
Among the Courtois, catering is a family affair. Michel, the husband, runs the
brasserie L’Ocean in Fouras at the Pointe de la Fumée. If you like generous
seafood platters, it’s open seven days a week as from April 1st. Which isn't
very surprising for fish, is it? (1)
1. On April 1st it is a French tradition among children to attach paper fish
to other people's backs.
info
16 rue Thiers
17000 La Rochelle
Tel. 05 46 45 37 35
2 See map pages 2 & 3
zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 9
Photos by Sylvie Curty
Dining
out...
> le Cabanon des Pêcheurs
16 rue Thiers 05 46 45 37 35
See page 9
Les Enfants Terribles
48 cours des Dames
dining out in la rochelle
aDvertisement
going out on the town...
> les perot-quais
15 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
05 46 41 43 68
Tel: 05 46 41 43 68
15 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
Come and try out this
original restaurant where
every dish has a distinct
theme (chic-choc: foie gras,
océane: seafood, Parisienne:
meat...) that will whisk you
off your feet on a gourmet
voyage full of different and original tastes and
savours. Each copious plate is comprised of a
starter, a main course, salad and cheese and is
made up with fine, fresh produce.
Les Pérot-Quais is open late every evening until
11:30 pm from Tuesday to Sunday during summer
and Tuesday to Saturday during winter.
La Petite Marche
4 rue des Trois Fuseaux
> Quai 22
22 quai Duperré
quai 22
22 quai Duperré
05 46 41 87 43
Ze'bar
13 bis rue de la Chaîne
dragon & dragon plus cinémas
8 cours des Dames
05 46 41 26 82
Rue Léone Vieljeux
05 46 41 45 00
05 46 07 05 15
international cuisine
05 46 56 76 84
05 46 41 44 28
05 46 41 28 43
Le baanthaï - Thai
18 rue Thiers
05 46 44 52 61
05 46 34 30 30
Le Bodega - Spanish
21 quai du Gabut
05 46 30 55 36
05 46 50 66 08
La Boussole - Asian/international
41 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
05 46 50 50 48
Cosy,
with
its
traditional AngloSaxon décor, the pub
and brasserie “Quai
22” serves varied
and top quality
meals, 7 days/7, at
lunchtime and in
the evening. Pizzas, big salads, a wide range of
meat dishes and mussels, too.
Ideally situated on La Rochelle’s Old Port, a totally
relaxing evening is in store for you.
Sports programs shown live. See map pages 2 & 3 6
Les 4 Sergents
49 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
La Rose des Vins
16 rue des Cloutiers
L’Albatros - Italian
21 rue Bletterie
Tel: 05 46 50 66 08
Le rupella
1-3 quai Maubec
05 46 27 50 23
complexe cgr olympia cinéma
54 rue Chaudrier
0 892 688 588
L’Abrazo - Spanish tapas
18 rue de la Chaîne
See map pages 2 & 3 5
La Petite Auberge
25 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
cinemas
wine bars
Le Dit Vin
12 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
05 46 41 30 31
05 46 41 95 64
Le Soleil Brille pour tout le Monde
13 rue des Cloutiers
05 46 41 11 42
Le Comptoir des Voyages - International
22 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
05 46 50 62 60
La Goulette - North African
17 rue des Dames
05 46 34 29 78
Iséo - Asian/international
30 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
05 46 50 07 01
Mah Monhir - Persian
Market square - rue Gambetta
05 46 37 50 56
Pattaya - Thai
11 rue de la Chaîne
05 46 41 79 61
Rigoletto - Italian
12 rue Chef de Ville
05 46 41 05 00
Sri Krishna - Indian
38 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
05 46 41 56 87
Sushi Atlantique - Japanese
5 place du Cdt de la Motte Rouge 05 46 34 27 78
La Table Basque - Basque
37 avenue des Minimes
05 46 45 32 02
Teatro Bettini Accademia - Italian
3 rue Thiers
05 46 41 07 03
la coursive scène nationale
4 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
05 46 51 54 00
multiplexe méga cGr cinéma
Rue Henri Bequerel
0 892 688 588
theatres
la coursive scène nationale
4 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
05 46 51 54 00
carré amelot
Rue Amelot
05 46 51 14 70
café-théâtre l’azile
29 rue Debussy
05 46 00 19 19
bars / cafés / pubs
L'Avant Scène
Before or after a show at La Coursive
2 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
05 46 41 43 04
france 1 bar
On top of the France 1 boat
Quai Sénac de Meilhan
05 46 50 47 32
l'académie de la bière
10 cours du Temple
05 46 42 43 78
Corrigan's
20 rue des Cloutiers
05 46 28 91 39
Fitzpatrick's irish pub
14 quai Duperré
05 46 07 77 37
general humbert's
14 rue Saint Nicolas
05 46 37 01 08
la cave de la guignette
A must for an "apértif"
8 rue Saint Nicolas
05 46 41 05 75
mattaï café
12 rue Bletterie
05 46 41 45 23
La Solette Café
11 rue de la Fourche
05 46 41 06 33
Aux Tables Rondes
33 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
tea rooms & coffee shops
05 46 41 31 37
Le Temple
9 rue de la Ferté
art'thé
41 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
05 46 50 47 36
05 46 41 15 04
le café chocolat thé
30 rue Chaudrier
casino barrière de la rochelle
Allées du Mail
05 46 34 12 75
05 46 50 58 25
Le terroir
45 rue Saint Jean du Pérot
05 46 41 17 06
les cafés merling
25 rue Gambetta
casino châtelaillon-plage (17km south of LR)
96 boulevard de la République 0 800 50 71 52
05 46 50 56 41
La Verdière
6 rue de la Cloche
05 46 50 56 75
d'jolly
16 rue Chaudrier
La Villette
4 rue de la Ferme
05 46 41 27 03
l'escale orientale
9 rue Archimède
Le Yachtman
23 quai Duperré
05 46 41 20 68
infini'thé
27 rue Dupaty
page 10 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009
Photos by Alexandra Duca
les perot-quais
casinos
La Grand'Rive
In the heart of the old port, La Grand'Rive's
brown and grey terrace is enticing under
its chocolate coloured awning. Refinement
and gourmandise are also on offer.
The atmosphere in the café, cosy and intimate,
invites one to discover the creative menu while
listening to the light sound of a piano.
F
rom the superb black piano near the
bar to the piano (stove) in the kitchen,
elegance prevails in La Grand'Rive.
The harmony of the two virtuosos,
the chef and the pianist, under the
leadership of the conductor, the owner, gives
the establishment a certain charm and identity.
Monsieur Dorinet
took over the ‘score’
of La Grand'Rive just
over a year ago and
has subtly imposed
info
night clubs
05 46 41 26 95
cosy club
Casino Barrière, allées du Mail
05 46 34 12 75
06 87 06 52 71
le triolet
8 rue des Carmes
05 46 41 11 88
05 46 28 18 45
oxford & PAPAGAYO
Plage de la Concurrence
05 46 41 51 81
his personel touch with the eyes of an aesthete, and a love of contemporary
design, but also true to the classic and tradition.
Here none of the decoration is superfluous, the shine of the wood and the
panelled walls associated with the softness of the metal grey recalls the sea
and her men better than any marine embellishment. The filtered lights of
the café soften the harsh sunlight reflected by the waters of the Old Port.
The outside terrace can seat 80 and heating lamps protect you from the fresh
ocean winds when needed. A discreet and attentive personnel gives you the
best of welcomes.
From the start of the morning a quick breakfast or a coffee becomes a relaxing
and refined gourmet moment. The blackboards offer the day’s menu, fresh fish,
seasonal produce from the market, sharpening the appetite in the same way.
Traditional salads revised by an imaginative chef, seafood platters that cannot
be forgotten, oysters from the Ile de Ré, Gillardeau special oysters with aromas
of hazelnuts… Authentic mouclades (mussels in a creamy sauce) - the pineau
one is a delight -, meat and fish: roasted, grilled, in sauce… Let yourself be
tempted by the John Dory wrapped in a banana leaf, the wok of large prawns
or even the chaudraie charentaise, a selection of curried fish depending on the
night’s catch. Freshness is guaranteed! Fabrice Chevalier, the chef, also excels
in the preparation of makis and sushis, and his bouchées vapeur aux crevettes
(shrimps steamed in little parcels), alone deserve a special tasting.
La Grand'Rive can already be found amongst the favourite addresses of the
Rochelais, who are connoisseurs of original and delicate flavours. Reserve
your table for dinner and do not hesitate to ask for the wine list. Presented in
a wooden folder it invites you to taste a Château Margaux, Pomerol, Pessac,
Saint-Emilion, Saint-Estèphe, Graves, Sauternes…and also offers a selection
of prestigious champagnes. For a special evening, a romantic dinner for two,
a happy family gathering or between friends, La Grand'Rive is the place to
be on the Old Port. Modern, but timeless.
Open every day from 7am
to midnight all year round
and until 2am from May to
September.
24 quai Duperré
Tel. 05 46 41 44 53
Fax 05 46 29 49 88
E-mail: [email protected]
www.lagrandrive.com
See map pages 2 & 3
3
zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 11
shopping
la rochelle
T he small world
of the early risers
Text by Charles Vincent
published in issue n° 13 of
Charente Maritime Magazine, 2008.
Photos by Kartiery
the old market
Two or three hours before dawn, the stalls are put
up around the market hall. At the hour the night
owls meet the early birds, the pulse of the town
acclerates. Little by little following the rhythm of the
ancient market, human exchanges warm the unique
atmosphere. An early morning appointment under
the ‘old market’ bell tower with Bruno Mallet,
the La Rochelle markets superintendent.
Shopping
in & around
La Rochelle
4
5
6
page 12 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009
To find a shop,
see the map of La Rochelle
on pages 2 & 3
Le Comptoir Irlandais
Irish products directly from Ireland
Set up in 1987 in Brest (Brittany) by ship chandlers in love with Ireland,
Le Comptoir Irlandais now has 42 outlets all over France that offer their
customers the best of Ireland in terms of whiskey, beers, textiles (the authentic
British brand “Barbour” in particular: a wardrobe of clothes for country
pursuits), fine food and gifts. Centrally located just next to the market square.
3
.50 am, a summer Saturday morning
in La Rochelle, on the square in front
of the old market. The night is warm.
Around the still closed covered market
the stalls are already being set up. In
spite of the noise of the metal frames
the area is still asleep…
am. Bruno Mallet, the market superintendent is punctual as usual. He has
barely opened the gates before the earliest traders have already besieged
the place. While he goes round the electrical installations Bruno hums to
himself, greeting everybody... Following that he rapidly goes around the
surrounding streets. He does a lot of kilometres opening the junction boxes,
putting up the no entry signs and greeting the stallholders who are putting
up their stands. “Salut Francis ! Ça va, Dédé?” The fishmongers are among the
first to arrive: ice is dumped onto their stalls before being covered by products
from the wholesale fish market. Pierrette, the cheese maker, lines up her crotins
on chestnut leaves. She has been coming here for 34 years. Every Monday she
goes round the forest picking up twigs and leaves to decorate her stall…
am. The atmosphere is relaxed. Little by little about 200 stallholders take
possession of their sites, one after the other, in the covered market and
along the neighbouring roads. Marcel, a market gardener from Esnandes,
has been coming for 49 years. He remembers when there was only a garage
surrounded by fields at Beaulieu... Just like Bob, a fruit and vegetable grower
in Vendée, who saw the creation of the market at the Arsenal in 1963. “Before,
I set up in the rue du Minage and Place Cacaud. There were about 800
stallholders then!” Since that time the strict hygiene rules have chased away
the little local farmers who sold their chickens from the corner of a table, and
have put off the enterprising young…
am. The night owls are the first clients, famished after a long sleepless
night. They come to devour a snack at Le Chabi, the stallholders
‘headquarters’, one of the two emblematic market cafés along with La
Gerbe de Blé. These are regular customers; they know that at this time
of the morning they have to bang on the shutters to get the door
opened… But the most courageous are the retired people with their
La Rochelle is full of tempting shops. Whether it be
for clothes, gifts, gourmet foods & chocolates, books...
The arcaded streets of the town centre provide
shelter from the summer sun or the winter rain.
15 rue Pas du Minage - 17000 La Rochelle
Tel. 05 46 28 27 25
shopping bags who show up as early as 6.30am. Oh? The clock under the bell
is ten minutes late… What is the bell for? To ring when it is time to pack
up?... One never looks up when doing the marketing. And yet the architecture
is beautiful up there, pure 1900s: delicately worked dressed stone, elegant
wrought iron metal structures... The place is fascinating, one comes to delight
in the witticisms and the curses, breathe in the folklore, listen to good stories...
“My grand mother, recounts Monique the fish seller, came from Marsilly with
her horse Coco, to set up her stall in the rue Pas du Minage.” Her family are
fishermen from father to son and fish sellers from mother to daughter. The
oldest families in the market can be found among the fish stalls: Rabaud,
Papineau, Planchot, Ledeuil-Laporte…
Bruno has a basket full of anecdotes: the down and out in the rue des Trois
Fuseaux, nicknamed ‘the prayer’, who struck the pose all morning; Mélie, an
historical figure who inaugurated the restored covered market with Michel
Crepeau in 1993; the nights of the full moon which makes the stallholders,
residents and passersby nervous... “The old market, he says, is a village within
a town, a large family, where everybody knows everybody, with its quarrels, but
also with its tradition of mutual aid...” In the market superintendent’s office
(on the north side of the covered market), helped by his colleagues Hervé
and Michel, Bruno allocates sites, hears complaints, referees conflicts, and
manages his little world
with diplomacy. In the
markets of La Rochelle (1)
there are so many colours
to harmonise...
1
The abuse of alcohol is dangerous to your health, consume with moderation.
Rayons Verts
Health foods are always delicious at Rayons Verts !
The Rayons Verts shops were opened in response to the need to make known and
available organic and health food shop produce. Their success is largely due to
their rigorous selection of products, from the criteria of : the products’ safety, their
compliance with regulations, as well as their gustative qualities.
Open Monday to Saturday from 9 am to 7.30 pm
67 boulevard Sautel - 17000 La Rochelle
Tel. 05 46 07 41 00
1. Bruno Mallet and his team manage all the markets in the town: the central market (seven days a week), Tasdon
(Tuesday), Villeneuve and the Arsenal (Wednesday), Port-Neuf and the Saint-Nicolas flea market (Thursday), Mireuil,
Les Minimes and the Place de Verdun (Friday), the Arsenal and the Saint-Nicolas flea market (Saturday), La Pallice
(Sunday). La Pallice is the biggest La Rochelle market with 300 stallholders.
zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 13
map • ile de ré
map • ile de ré
ile de ré
bicycle rentals
Ile-de-Ré is a very bike-friendly
island, with 100km of cycle
paths across the island enabling
cyclists to avoid the roads.
Ile de Ré is quite a large island about 30 kilometres long - and is a
very popular holiday destination on
this sunny coast of western France.
It has two distinct characteristics:
sandy beaches along the southwestern side, and salt and oyster
beds along the north-eastern
coastline.
The highlights of Ile-de-Ré include
lovely beaches and the towns and
their attractive harbours.
All facilities are available on the
island (including markets with fresh
local produce, supermarkets
and petrol stations).
Ars-en-Ré
Cycland, on the port
Neveur Cycles,
2 place de la Chapelle
05 46 29 20 88
Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré
Cycland, impasse des Rosiers
05 46 35 08 73
Cycles 1+, rue des Iris
05 46 09 06 16
Cyclo-Surf, 26 rue de l’Église
05 46 09 99 65
Garage Boillot, 2 rte de La Couarde 05 46 09 23 17
Liberty Cycles, 19 rue Chef de Ville 05 46 00 19 42
la couarde-sur-mer
Cycland, 1 rue Aristide Briand
05 46 29 06 09
Cycl'Energie, 2 rue Pasteur
05 46 30 24 98
Cyclo-surf, 16 av. d’Antioche 05 46 29 92 78
23 av. du Mail 05 46 29 57 11
Locasud, 21 av. du Peux Ragot
05 46 29 83 30
la flotte
Cycland, 17 rue du Marché Cycles Chauffour,
6 cours Eugène Chauffour Cyclo-surf, 14 bis rue H. Lainé access via the bridge
The Ile de Ré has been linked to La Rochelle
by a toll bridge since 1988.
Per car: 9 € from 12th september to 19th june,
16.50 € from 20th june to 11th september
(return ticket prices - eco-tax included).
Temporary season tickets available.
Tel. 05 46 00 51 10
Crossing the bridge costs 2€ for motorized
two-wheel vehicles and is free for cyclists
and pedestrians.
loix
Cyclo-Loix, Place du Marché
05 46 09 65 27
05 46 09 60 25
05 46 09 51 60
06 99 53 94 79
les portes-en-ré
Cycland,
2 rue de La Pointe à Chabot Cycles Neaud-Morin,
12 avenue du Haut des Treilles
Pop Cycles,
17 allée des Annoillières
05 46 29 08 36
05 46 29 60 01
05 46 29 50 03
rivedoux-Plage
A V L'Ile à Vélo, 05 46 09 61 42
4 rue du Comte d'Hastrel
ou 06 35 72 82 47
Cycland,
Les Peux de Sablanceaux
05 46 09 97 54
Fun Cycles, 203 rue Jules Ferry
05 46 09 69 39
by bus
Kéolis : 0811 36 17 17
Kéolis bus service. At the SNCF railway station
of La Rochelle directly to the Ile de Ré. Bus
service to all villages of the island throughout
the year. Timetables available on:
www.lesmouettes-transports.com
saint-clément-des-baleines
Cycland, 154 rue du Centre
05 46 29 29 08
saint-marie-de-RÉ
Cyclo-surf, 26 rue du 14 Juillet 05 46 30 19 51
Cyclo-surf,
9 bis cours des Jarrières, La Noue 05 46 30 27 40
Summer only:
RTCR: www.rtcr.fr - Tel. 05 46 34 02 22
La Rochelle - Ile de Ré link - Bus-Vélo
(take your bike on the bus): 1.50 € one way
(to Sablanceaux, just after the bridge)
saint-martin-DE-RÉ
Cycland, Impasse Sully
05 46 09 08 66
Cyclo-surf, 7 av. Victor Bouthillier 05 46 09 08 28
Liberty Cycles, 21 cours Pasteur
05 46 00 29 76
LOC UP, 11 avenue Philippsburg
05 46 68 21 42
La Maison des Vélocipèdes,
14 quai de Bernonville
06 84 32 18 92
Bertrand Patrick,
Chemin des Maraises
05 46 09 36 46
Yoo Too, 9 av. Victor Bouthiller
06 21 24 67 26
or 05 46 00 29 76
by boat
To 3 ports on the island :
Ars-en-Ré : 05 46 29 25 10
[email protected]
La Flotte-en-Ré: 05 46 09 67 66
Saint-Martin-de-Ré: 05 46 09 26 69
[email protected]
05 46 29 47 17
Ré Taxi Bus
Z.A. Gros Joncs - Le Bois-Plage
Tel. : 05
46 09 47 33
Guided visits of the island
Ile de Ré • In & around La Rochelle
© C2M
page 14 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009
zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 15
Self-catering residences
Contact the hotels and residences directly for specific details
Where to stay
on the Ile de Ré
The Ile de Ré is full of beautiful
places to stay. Make sure you
book well in advance and let
us know if you enjoyed staying
somewhere you did not find
listed below.
Le Martray HH
Le Martray
www.hotellemartray.com
05 46 29 40 42
le bois-plage-en-ré
05 46 09 27 00
Les Gollandières HHH Avenue des Gollandières
www.lesgollandieres.com
05 46 09 23 99
05 46 29 41 20
Jerodel HHH
35 rue de la Glacière
www.jerodel.com
05 46 09 96 42
05 46 29 41 20
L’Océan HH
172 rue de Saint Martin
www.re-hotel-ocean.com
05 46 09 23 07
Plaisir
56 avenue du Pas des Boeufs
www.hotel-plaisir.com
05 46 09 00 26
ars-en-ré
Le Clocher HH
14 place Carnot
Le Sénéchal HH
6 rue Gambetta
www.hotel-le-senechal.com
Les Bois Flottais HH
Rue des Mouettes
www.lesboisflottais.com
Résidence hôtelière thalacap HHH
Av. d'Antioche, Pointe de Grignon 05 46 29 10 00
www.thalacap.fr
Les Casserons HHH / HH
14 place Carnot
www.lescasserons.com
Le Parasol HH
Route de St-Clément des Baleines 05 46 29 46 17
www.leparasol.com
HHH
05 46 29 40 04
La Ville Passagère
25 avenue du Pas des Boeufs
www.lavillapassagere.net
aDvertisement
HH
05 46 00 26 70
la couarde-sur-mer
Le Vieux Gréement HHH
13 place Carnot
www.levieuxgreement.com
Les Mouettes HH
28 Grande Rue
05 46 29 82 18
05 46 29 90 30
Hôtel de la Plage
28 avenue du Peu Ragot
www.residre.fr
05 46 30 61 11
La Rose-Ré HHH
8/10 imp. du Moulin de Quentin
www.la-rose-re.com
05 46 29 17 36
Les Roses Tremières HHHH
Reservations: Route de Loix
www.locations-retaises.com
05 46 29 82 57
HH
a whiff of luxury
la flotte
> le richelieu HHHH
44 avenue de la Plage
See page 21 & inside cover
www.hotel-le-richelieu.com
> le clos des sternes HHH
29 rue de l’Airmorin
See below
www.clos-des-sternes.com
05 46 09 60 70
05 46 09 50 03
Cont’d page 18
furnished accomodation HHH
Le Clos des Sternes
Ideally situated on the Ile de Ré, in the
centre of the beautiful village La Flotte,
Le Clos des Sternes is a small residence of
authentic charm where Christiane Obers has
been greeting her guests for 20 years now. Just a
small distance from the magnificent old harbour,
restaurants and cafés, safe beaches, 18th century
market, Thalasso-therapy, French sailing school,
tennis courts, horseback riding, bike rentals,
covered market, restaurants, local shops...
The calm, the lovely situation, silence, comfort,
cleanliness, and charm are the qualities that
make up Le Clos des Sternes *** (officially
classified “3 stars”). The apartments all possess
their own closed-off, private courtyard with an
outside seating area, deck chairs for sunbathing,
page 16 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009
See our complete Internet Site:
click onto www.clos-des-sternes.com for
direct access to a daily up-dated planning
all year long, per apartment with specific
details and photos for each apartment, rates
per night, for a few days or more as well as
our last minute promotions.
a barbecue, all equipped to the highest
standards of quality and cleanliness (bed sheets,
crockery, etc.).
Excellent insulation, a direct phone line and
television (Canal+, Eurosport, LCI, three English
channels and a German one). Communal
facilities: reception office, large picturesque
courtyard with deck chairs and mattresses for
relaxation, a bike shelter, a laundry room with
washing machine and dryer, a closed-off, private
parking lot 100m away. Possibility to have a
cleaner on your departure, bed made on your
arrival and towels provided.
New in 2009: individual ground floor house for
2 to 6 people.
Photos by Alexandra Duca
ile de ré
For our residents, preferential prices with
our partners: Bike rentals, treatments at the
Thalasso beauty salon as well as the sea water
swimming pool entrance fee, hamam, sauna.
info
Mrs. Christiane Obers
5 rue de l’Armorin - 17630 La Flotte
Tel. 05 46 09 50 03 - 06 07 55 24 73
Fax 05 46 09 95 00
E-mail: [email protected]
www.clos-des-sternes.com
B
Le Clos Saint-Martin
efore, at the Clos Saint-Martin, you already felt as though
you were in another world. Today we have entered the third
dimension. Where luxury, ultimate well-being and beauty are but
one. Imagine...
One morning you wake up on a mid-Atlantic island, in the middle
of a park full of trees a couple of steps from an old fortified port, in a suite
with triple views over the sea, the swimming pools and the garden... Around
you a world of unbelievable gentleness, marrying sand coloured limestone,
solid oak and natural linen, aubergine silk and feather pillows... You go
along muffled corridors with chocolate, iced chestnut coloured carpets;
you meet smiles from Sylvie, Melanie, Julien, Virginie... You arrive in the
breakfast room. There, the rising sun’s rays shine through the glass roof
of the ‘atelier’ touching everything: baskets of warm bread and of golden
Viennese pastries from Pain Marin, Lydie’s homemade jams, of which 80%
is fruit, farm yoghurts, fresh goat cheese from the Loix-en-Ré herd of goats,
juice made in a juice extractor from seasonal fruit... The smell of butter and
steaming coffee...
In the warmth of the morning, you cross the romantic park, with its old
wells and its luxuriant vegetation, the scent of which reaches the heated
swimming pool; this evening the scented candles will be lit all around
the pools... On the other side of the garden, in Le Clos Saint-Martin’s very
new Spa (santas per aqua), a team of beauticians trained by Clarins is
waiting for you for a treatment session 100% made in France. Massage,
balneotherapy with bubbles, hammam, algotherapy... Oiled natural tiles,
the interior atmosphere of subdued lighting is achieved by trellised screens
True luxury today is having space and time.
Luxurious space striped in chocolate and
silver linen tones, in a deliciously timeless
atmosphere. Softness of feathers, colour of
the moon, interior light... Magic of the spa,
perfumes of tea flowers, of oiled stones, of
tropical rain. Radiant prestige at the saint of
saints: Le Clos Saint-Martin.
with adjustable strips, the half light gives a ‘maternal cocoon’ feeling... Let
yourself be enveloped by the mist in the black chocolate, baked clay tiled
shower, or by tropical rain or a sheet of falling water... In the rest room,
which is softly lit by a pearl drop chandelier and lamps with droplets of
water, breathe in the tea flower that opens out as it infuses...
Once you have regained your serenity, jump on one of the bicycles in the
colours of Le Clos Saint-Martin, go and assault the narrow back streets of
the old town. Before coming back to
the chocolate paradise of Le Clos SaintMartin, out of this world in space and
time. The saint of saints.
info
8 cours Pasteur
17410 Saint-Martin de Ré
Tel. 05 46 01 10 62
Fax 05 46 01 99 89
E-mail: [email protected]
www.le-clos-saint-martin.com
zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 17
staying on the ile de ré
aDvertisement
Self-catering residences
Contact the hotels and residences directly for specific details
Le Galion HHH
Allée de la Guyane
05 46 09 03 19
Hotel HHH Lodges & Spa
La Jetée HHH
23 quai Clémenceau
05 46 09 36 36
www.lesvignesdelachapelle.com
La Maison Douce HHH
25 rue Mérindot
05 46 09 20 20
Les Colonnes HH
19 quai Job Foran
05 46 09 21 58
Hôtel du Port HH
29 quai de la Poithevinière
05 46 09 21 21
La barbette
29 avenue Victor Bouthillier
05 46 09 20 27
Le Bois Saint Martin
5 chemin des Salières
05 46 09 08 90
La maison douce
25 rue Mérindot
05 46 09 20 20
Le Clos Rhéa HHHH / HHH
29 rue de l’Hôpital
05 46 09 07 16
www.hotel-les-grenettes.com
Le Français HH
1 cours Félix Faure
www.hotellefrancais.com
05 46 09 60 06
Route du Bois-Plage
See page 23 and back cover
05 46 30 22 47
> les vignes de la chapelle HHH
5 rue de la Marne
05 46 30 20 30
La Galiote HH
Avenue du 8 Mai 1945
www.hotellagaliote.com
05 46 09 50 95
L’Hippocampe HH 16 rue du Château des Mauléons 05 46 09 60 68
www.hotel-hippocampe.com
> mellone locations
33 cours Chauffour
www.mellone-locations.com
See page 19
www.lesvignesdelachapelle.com
www.hotel-lajetee.com
5 rue de la Manne - 17740 Sainte Marie - Ile de Ré
www.lamaisondouce.com
05 46 09 04 11
www.hotellescolonnes.com
Cocraud HH
05 46 68 29 21
les portes-en-ré
l’emeraude
21 avenue du Haut des Treilles
www.hotel-lesportesenre.com
05 46 29 59 54
rivedoux-plage
Les Alizés
95 rue de Thoiras
www.iledere.biz
HH / HHHH
Les Dunes HHH
746 & 608 rue du Phare
05 46 09 04 34
05 46 09 81 95
Le Grand Large HHH
154, avenue des Dunes
www.hoteldugrandlarge.com
05 46 09 89 51
la Marée HHH
321 avenue Albert Sarrault
www.hoteldelamaree.com
05 46 09 80 02
j.-C. Héraudeau HHH
www.location-maison-iledere.fr 05 46 30 21 40
Rêve de Ré HHH
500 rue de la Fontaine
www.revedere-locations.com
On the edge of a nature reserve and with stunning
views overlooking the grapevines, the sea and the Isles
of Aix and Oléron… Your “Lodge” in the style of a small
house for 1 to 5 people has 1 or 2 bedrooms, a
living room, a wooden terrace... Swimming pool,
jacuzzi, sauna, massages, yoga, bike hire…
Stay here... and unwind !
Le Peu Breton HH
31 rue de la Cailletière - La Noue 05 46 30 61 11
www.hotelpeubreton.com
Côté Océan
37 rue des Chênes - La Noue
www.maisonalouer-iledere.com
05 46 01 98 09
06 11 68 00 99
Mr & Mrs Héraudeau
Res.: 16 rue de la République
05 46 30 21 40
Le Petit Bois HHH
14 rue de la Morande
05 46 30 07 97
www.location-maison-iledere.fr
www.residence-petitbois.com
Le Petit Village HH
Stéphane Héraudeau
06 85 91 58 97
10 rue Lucien Favreau
www.residencedupetitvillage.com
Les Sablières HHHH / HHH
Reservations: 2 rue Norviré
05 46 30 24 76
à l’abri des Passeroses
12 route des Pins
05 46 30 21 09
L’Escale
2 place des Tilleuls
05 46 30 21 69
www.residences.sablieres.com
Les Sables Blancs HHHH / HH
Res.: 94 rue de la Surveillance
05 46 67 50 16
www.location-sable-blanc-iledere.com
www.abri-des-passeroses.com
st-clément-des-baleines
Le Chat Botté HH
Place de l’église
www.hotelchatbotte.com
05 46 29 21 93
les Belles de nuit Guest House
57 rue du Godinand
05 46 29 20 41
E-mail: [email protected]
Résidence Les Pérouses HHHH / HHH
29 chemin des Roches Marines
06 15 93 78 36
www.iledere-lesperouses.com
page 18 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009
www.hotel-legalion.com
Les Vignes de la Chapelle
Tel: 05 46 30 20 30
HHH
Odalys - Les Hauts de
Route de Saint Martin
www.odalys-vacances.com
www.le-clos-saint-martin.com
www.iledere-hot-port.com
www.hotellabarbette.com
www.bois-st-martin.com
www.bois-st-martin.com
www.residence-rhea.com
Photos courtesy of Mellone Locations
05 46 01 10 62
> les grenettes HHH
www.hotel-de-toiras.com
a rejuvenating oasis
Mellone
Locations
furnished accomodation
HHH
Just a few cable lengths away from La Flotte port, opposite
the sailing school, Mario Mellone opens his paradise for
holidaymakers looking for a calm and
relaxing place.
a night on the town...
bars
05 46 09 03 30
baleine bar
4 quai Launay Razilly - Saint-Martin-de-Ré
05 46 09 20 24
le cervane
Quai Launay Razilly - Saint-Martin-de-Ré
night clubs
05 46 30 03 55
chai pépette
5 place Antioche - Sainte-Marie-de-Ré
la pergola
05 46 29 86 21
Plage de la Pergola - La Couarde-sur-Mer
05 46 09 87 84
la chaloupe 104 avenue Albert Sarrault - Rivedoux-Plage
la playa
05 46 30 15 46
Route des Grenettes - Sainte-Marie-de-Ré
05 46 09 93 49
cubana café
Venelle de la Fosse-Braye - Saint-Martin-de-Ré
05 46 09 21 92
Bastion de la mer
Cours Pasteur - Saint-Martin-de-Ré
Aux frères de la côte
Route de la Grange - Ars-en-Ré
boucquingam club
05 46 09 01 20
Venelle de Fosse Bray - Saint-Martin-de-Ré
05 46 29 69 52
le 20
9 route de Saint-Clément - Ars-en-Ré
05 46 29 04 54
J
ust a few cable lengths away from La Flotte port, opposite the sailing
school, Mario Mellone opens his paradise for holidaymakers looking
for a calm and relaxing place.
Photographed a thousand and one times, Mario’s residence cannot
be missed. Its hundred-year old anchor, its traditional stonework give
it a typical Ile de Ré character. And behind its whitewashed walls there is a
hidden paradise, a true rejuvenating oasis for all those who wish to forget
daily stress.
Situated around the swimming pool (heated
from May to October) are four apartments
offering all the comfort needed for a most
agreeable stay. These ‘jewel boxes’ open onto
a private courtyard with garden table and
chairs and a barbeque and, according to their
size, can accomodate from 3 to 6 people. There is also direct access to a
superb landscaped solarium terrace. And inside nothing is missing: kitchen
area, equipped with a dishwasher, washing and drying machines, shower
room, wc, telephone, television, and of course, the sleeping area, with beds of
140 or 90 cm. Not to mention the essential bicycle store, that you will surely
use as Mario’s house is close to everything: beaches, the port, play areas for
children, the town centre and its market…. And should the occasion arise,
don’t hesitate to talk to the master of the house, he will share the stories of
his far-off journeys with you…
info
33 cours Chauffour - 17630 La Flotte-en-Ré
Tel. 05 46 09 04 11 - Mobile: 06 07 99 59 69 - Fax 05 46 09 64 66
E-mail: [email protected]
www.mellone-locations.com
Base
Na
utique
Prom
enad
e
Cour
s Eugè
ne Ch
auffo
ur
Clavette
Le Clos Saint-Martin HHHH
8 cours Pasteur
05 46 30 22 44
T
IN
SA
Rue de la
05 46 35 40 32
www.relaisthalasso.com
T IN
05 46 09 77 00
saint-martin-de-ré
L’Hôtel de Toiras HHHH
1 quai Job Foran
-M
AR
La Jolie Brise HHH
Avenue du 8 Mai
www.la-jolie-brise.com
sainte-marie-de-ré
Atalante HHH
Port Notre-Dame
Rue de la Côte
Les Charmilles HHHH
15 chemin du Gros Moulin
05 46 09 20 52
www.iledere-lescharmilles.com
zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 19
ile de ré
Au 5 rue Thiers
5 rue Thiers
Le Bistrot de Bernard
1 quai Criée 05 46 29 23 33
05 46 29 40 26
La Cabane du Fier
20 Le Martray 05 46 29 64 84
> café du commerce
Quai de la Criée
05 46 29 41 57
café du commerce
Tel: 05 46 29 41 57
Quai de la Criée - Ars-en-Ré Fax: 05 46 29 49 30
www.cafcom-ars.com
Who hasn’t heard of
the Café du Commerce,
whose centuries-old
walls occupy a place
of honour on the port
of Ars-en-Ré?
This legendary establishment with its
half-Western, half-Art
Nouveau décor has, for more than 20 years now,
made the headlines of dozens of newspapers and
regional magazines, and even American ones.
Le Clocher
15 place Carnot Aux Frères de la Côte
Route de la Grange 05 46 29 41 20
05 46 29 04 54
Le Grenier à Sel
20 chemin de la Baie
05 46 29 08 62
K’Ré d’Ars
9 quai de la Criée
05 46 29 94 94
Thalacap
Avenue d’Antioche
La Croisette
10 cours Félix Faure
05 46 09 06 06
05 46 41 47 86
L’Écailler
3 quai de Sénac
05 46 09 56 40
05 46 29 10 00
L’Escale
13 quai de Sénac
05 46 01 63 37
L'escapade
1 rue Jean Henry Lainé
05 46 09 50 01
La fiancée du pirate
15 quai de Sénac
05 46 09 52 46
Le Français
1 cours Félix Faure
05 46 09 60 06
il gabbiano
15 rue du Général de Gaulle
05 46 09 60 08
Le nautic
2 rue Jean Henry Lainé
05 46 09 60 50
Les pieds dans l'eau
8 cours Félix Faure
05 46 09 45 68
05 46 29 69 52
le bois-plage-en-ré
05 46 09 29 87
La bicylette du morinand
Rue Poisière
05 46 01 30 16
beau rivage
27 avenue de la Plage
05 46 00 84 15
Les Gollandières
Avenue des Gollandières
05 46 09 23 99
La Grange au Puits
1 avenue de la Plage
05 46 09 31 49
La Grillerie
Route de Gros Jean
05 46 09 20 72
Le Moulin à Café
Rue Jean Moulin
05 46 09 86 06
L’Océan
172 rue de Saint-Martin 05 46 35 19 80
la couarde-sur-mer
à la plancha
12ter cours Félix Faure
05 46 68 10 34
La Poissonnerie du Port
4 quai de Sénac
05 46 09 04 14
Le Poseïdon
Chemin des Bardonnières
05 46 01 44 78
> Le Richelieu
44 avenue de la Plage
See page 25
Le banc des pêcheurs
13 place Carnot
05 46 29 04 01
La Cabane du feneau
Le Fenaud - Route de Loix
05 46 30 43 68
La Cabine de Bain
33 Grande Rue
05 46 29 84 26
La Presqu’Ile
Place du Marché
05 46 29 66 79
chez jacky
17 avenue du Mail
05 46 29 91 11
La Route du Sel
9 place de la Mairie
05 46 29 06 83
Les Mouettes
28 Grande Rue
05 46 29 90 30
Le Saint Georges
10 quai de Sénac
05 46 09 60 18
loix
les portes-en-ré
05 46 29 86 21
La Bazenne
14 place de la Liberté 05 46 29 52 20
05 46 29 82 37
la cabane de la patache
15 bis rue Patache
05 46 31 38 22
La terrasse
25 avenue du Mail
05 46 29 86 53
Au Régal de la Mer
9 rue de la Prée
05 46 29 62 66
Le Taxi Brousse
20 rue des Anneries
05 46 29 90 33
Le Chasse Marée
Place de la Liberté
05 46 29 52 03
05 46 29 82 18
L’Emeraude
21 avenue du Haut des Treilles
05 46 29 59 54
Lilleau
2 rue Jules David
05 46 43 96 48
Le pergola
32 route Joachim
La Salicorne
16 rue de l’Olivette
Le vieux gréement
13 place Carnot
Cont’d page 26
page 20 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009
05 46 09 60 70
the art of giving pleasure
A table that comes close to the summits, a hotel on the brink of perfection, an irreproachable
thalassotherapy centre, the search for excellence is everywhere. What makes Le Richelieu different is the
permanent concern for a faultless performance, for an irreproachable quality of service. But the main
concern is without doubt the keyword from the master of the house, Richard Gendre: giving pleasure.
DISCREET, REFINED COMFORT
Fleur de Lys “Relais et Châteaux”, luxury 4 star hotel, panelling, hushed
corridors: Le Richelieu, on the sea front at La Flotte, knows how to maintain
its high standards. But under the luxury image it conceals treasures for
comfort and a rare sense of hospitality. A ‘home sweet home’ where it
is good to laze around, this hotel with an
international reputation has made excellence
its philosophy and the art of receiving its state
of mind. Be it from a room, suite or cottage,
there are magnificent views of the sea (only
a path separates the hotel from the shore) or
of the interior garden that provides a pleasing
change of scene. Le Richelieu invites you to
the land of dreams, while reception chief
Annaïck Magnaud’s smile and the devotion of
her team invite you to come back.
RELAXED ART OF ENTERTAINING
As in any large house, the sense of welcome takes precedence over all other
considerations. The proof: the terrace, which Le Richelieu inaugurated in 2007,
is open to passers-by at drinks time, teatime or if you are a little hungry around
midday… At the stove
in the gastronomic
restaurant, the chef
Richard Prouteau cooks up his menu full of wonders; here are some of them to
whet your appetite: Sushi aux huîtres de l’île de Ré (Sushi with Ile de Ré oysters),
Copeaux de foie gras fumé (shavings of smoked foie gras), Homard de notre vivier en
civet de Graves, chou farci (Lobster from our fish-tank in a stew with Graves wine,
stuffed cabbage), Tuile craquante au grué de chocolat et zestes de citron (chocolate
and lemon zest almond biscuit)… What is not on the menu, but is offered, is the
ocean, to savour with your eyes through the panoramic bay-window…
ALONE at the top of THE WORLD
In a spectacular yet accessible setting, the Richelieu Thalassotherapy centre
offers the beneficial effects of iodine and plankton from seawater. Abandon
yourself to the experienced hands of physiotherapists, hydrotherapists,
beauticians, and massotherapists,
for a session of therapeutic massage
or a treatment for your well-being
and comfort. Hydromassage bath,
seaweed wrapping, lymph and
vein drainage, chromotherapy,
aromatherapy, Chinese reflexology,
Japanese lifting, hot stone or candle
massages, shiatsu, ayurveda…
Smell the ‘zen’ air filled with essential oils, body and soul are regenerated in
the harmony of senses and spirit. A hand treatment with caviar, doesn’t the
idea just make your heart melt? Ch. Vincent
Photo: Jean-Pierre Lamarque
ars-en-ré
05 46 29 46 17
Le Soleil d’Ars
Le Champs du Soleil
La Bouvette
Le Morinand
05 46 68 99 42
Chai Nous comme Chez Vous
1 rue de la Garde
05 46 09 49 85
Le Parasol
Route du Phare des Baleines
Le 20
9 route de Saint-Clément
05 46 09 49 85
Le Bar Basque
18 quai de Sénac
Photo: Jean-Pierre Lamarque
There is a good choice
of restaurants on the island,
catering for all tastes and
budgets. Seafood features
prominently of course, and your
visit wouldn't be complete without
a taste of the local oysters,
but there are also creperies,
pizzerias, gourmet restaurants
and bistros. And don't
miss tasting the delicious local
ice cream.
la flotte
autour de midi mélanie
1 rue Culquolles
3 photos: Jean-Pierre Lamarque
Eating out
on the Ile de Ré
aDvertisement
info
HHHH
Hotel - Gourmet & Dietetic Restaurant - Thalassotherapy Centre
44 avenue de la Plage - 17630 La Flotte
Tel. 05 46 09 60 70
E-mail : [email protected]
www.hotel-le-richelieu.com
Photo: Alexandra Duca
zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 21
eating out on the ile de ré
aDvertisement
rivedoux-plage
le M
321 avenue Albert Sarrault
05 46 35 39 44
le grand large
154 avenue des Dunes
05 46 01 65 49
le théthys
25 avenue Grand'Vallée
05 46 09 69 33
les viviers
573 avenue de la Corniche
05 46 09 86 22
Les Embruns
6 passage du Chay Morin
05 46 07 63 23
> L’ilôt
16 quai Nicolas Baudin
05 46 09 97 45
05 46 09 21 68
la chaloupe
104 avenue Albert Sarrault
05 46 09 87 84
Au Lever du Soleil
2 quai Bernonville
le capuccino
270 avenue Gustave Perreau
05 46 68 03 63
Marco Polo
Quai de Bernonville
05 46 09 15 92
le rivedoux
120 rue Jules Ferry
05 46 09 80 07
La Marine
31 quai de la Poithevinière
05 46 09 20 39
l'ocre doux
270 avenue Gustave Perreau
05 46 68 03 63
Le Martin’s Pub
59 quai de la Poithevinière
05 46 09 15 87
Le Perroquet Noir
11 cours Bailli des écotais
05 46 01 97 75
05 46 35 78 72
05 46 09 33 40
st-clément-des-baleines
Les Baleineaux
Phare des Baleines
05 46 29 09 57
Le Phare
4 quai Bernonville
La cabane
9 allée du Phare
05 46 42 26 91
Le Café du Phare
99 chemin du Pas du Nord
> au pot d’étain
19 rue du Marché
05 46 29 46 66
au pot d’étain
Le Chat Botté
20 rue de la Mairie
05 46 29 42 09
chez marie
25 chemin du Pas du Nord
05 46 29 21 83
L’écluse
408 rue du Chaume
05 46 28 18 51
à l’ouest
6 rue Mail du Clocher
05 46 29 96 03
Le Patio
8 allée du Phare Le Gillieux
05 46 31 18 12
saint-martin-de-ré
L’Avant Port
8 quai Daniel Rivaille
> la baleine bleue
4 quai Launay Razilly
See inside cover
Tel: 05 46 09 33 40
19 rue du Marché - St Martin de Ré
Traditional cuisine, based
on fresh local produce,
and featuring delicious
crepes; you’ll be warmly
welcomed to the rustic,
family atmosphere of our
restaurant, to enjoy your
meal by the fire. A great formula that satisfies tourists
as well as Ile-de-Ré inhabitants. Try our traditional
galettes or, to make a change, dare “La glaude”,
with caulifower, and specialities such as the “Ré”
(homemade caramel made with salt from the island).
Open all year, 7 days a week. Salads, grills, omelettes
and hot dishes from the menu.
05 46 68 06 68
La Sarrazine
4 quai Nicolas Baudin
05 46 09 28 92
05 46 09 03 30
Le Serghi
4 quai Georges Clémenceau
05 46 09 03 92
Le Skipper
27 quai de la Poithevinière
05 46 09 20 38
La Table d’Olivia
1 quai Job Foran
05 46 35 40 32
Le Belem
29 quai de la Poithevinière
05 46 09 56 56
Le Bistrot du Marin
10 quai Nicolas Baudin
05 46 68 74 66
Bô
20 cours Vauban
05 46 07 04 04
sainte-marie-de-ré
Atalante
Port Notre Dame
05 46 30 22 44
05 46 30 03 55
Les Colonnes
19 quai Job Foran
05 46 09 21 58
à Côté de Chez Fred
6 venelle Fosse Bray
chai pepette
5 place Antioche
05 46 09 95 95
L’Embarcadère
7 quai Poithevinière
05 46 09 21 01
> les grenettes
Route du Bois-Plage
See page 23 and back cover
a feast at l'amphitrite
Les Grenettes
Les Grenettes offers you sea air in symbiosis with l’air du temps: a
charming hotel and swimming pool in the pine forest, banqueting
rooms and a concert hall, rooms to hold seminars and a restaurant.
The restaurant L'Amphitrite treats you with a creative and tasty
cuisine, stuffed full of ideas according to the rhythm of the seasons.
Gastronomy with a passion.
A
t Sainte-Marie-de-Ré, the very welcoming Les Grenettes hotel
estate invites one to stroll among the pines just 200 metres from
the beach, under the legendary white light of the island, dear to
local artists. For the past 40 years the family tradition of warm
hospitality has continued in this small paradise, and continues
to hand out its beneficial effects to a loyal clientele today. It also hosts a
gastronomic restaurant, L'Amphitrite, in its midst, which takes advantage
of the food press. An exceptionally good table where one is sure to be in
excellent company.
The décor is perfect for a candlelit dinner: a trendy setting of glass and
concrete, flanked by a fireplace that plays at being a contemporary work of
art. Here the maître d’hôtel, like an attentive sommelier, offers a glass of
champagne and some Amuse-bouche du marché (aperitif snacks) while you
wait. The sea gods compel, L'Amphitrite takes more than its fair share from the
sea: oysters from the Ile de Ré, Saumon fumé à l’aneth, (smoked salmon with
dill); Estouffade de coquilles Saint-Jacques à l’estragon (braised scallops with
tarragon); Bar au gros sel et savours de Havane (Sea bass, sea salt and Havana
flavours); Homard européen aux épices (European lobster with spices); Pastilla
de homard aux mangues (Lobster pastilla with mangoes)… For meat eaters,
back to dry land, and an appetising menu: Crème de topinambour aux truffles
et à l’huile d’Argan (cream of Jerusalem artichokes with truffles and Argan oil);
œufs brouillés aux truffles (scrambled eggs with truffles); Escalope de foie gras
de canard maison au pain d’épices (an escalope of homemade duck foie gras
asparagus carpaccio with
parmesan cheese); Assiette
d’agneau pascal, fricassée de
légumes de printemps (plate
of Easter lamb, fricassée of
spring vegetables)…Cheese
break with the Mottin
charentais à la confiture de
cerises et sa petite salade à l’huile de noix (small Charentais cheese made from
cows’ milk, with cherry jam and a small salad with walnut oil), before going on
to L'Amphitrite’s divine desserts: Soufflé glacé aux fruit de la passion (passion
fruit iced soufflé), Dame chocolat mandarine (small chocolate and mandarin
cakes); Nougat glacé au coulis de framboise (iced nougat with raspberry sauce);
Tarte tatin et sa crème anglaise (upside-down apple pie with custard)…
There is no need to mention that the chef Gérard Gravier (who has worked
for stars - Michelin stars that is - such as the restaurants Julius, La Perouse, Le
Comte de Gascogne…) and his cooks ‘work’ with fresh, seasonal, local produce,
to concoct a modern cuisine which has a local flavour, with a mastery that
leaves one flabbergasted. Relax and let your taste buds delight in the sea air:
you are at Les Grenettes.
info
05 46 30 22 47
Photos courtesy of Les Grenettes
page 22 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009
with gingerbread); Foie gras
et son carpaccio d’asperges
au parmesan (Foie gras and
Route du Bois-Plage - BP 9
17740 Sainte-Marie-de-Ré
Tel. 05 46 30 22 47
Fax 05 46 30 24 64
[email protected]
www.hotel-les-grenettes.com
zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 23
ile de ré
aDvertisement
Text by Charles Vincent
the old
lighthouse tower
Photos by Kartiery
the fair-trade label
Logis du Pertuis
the oldest of the baleines
Far off through the mist, one can see the Haut-banc du Nord
lighthouse, lost in the middle of the crashing waves. In the Multimedia
Museum installed at the foot of the old tower, Jamy Gourmaud,
the ‘Tintin’ of French television journalists is
bustling about. Visitors throng to the park’s
shop in winter as in summer. Welcome to Les
Baleines Lighthouse, which watches over its
elder from the top of its 57 metres.
Three lighthouses warn ships about the north point of the Ile de Ré and the
formidable rocks that lie just beneath the surface of the water. On the shore
there is the tall Baleines lighthouse (1849-1854). It is octagonal, built of blue
granite and limestone, is 57 meters high, with a beam which can be seen
50 kilometres away, and is one of the most powerful on the Atlantic coast.
Out to sea, the Haut-banc du Nord lighthouse, also called Les Baleineaux
lighthouse, built at the same time, reaches 29.50 metres. Between the two,
the old pre-existing 23-metre lighthouse tower built in 1682 was renovated in
2007, at the same time as the building at its foot. This, originally intended for
the storage of fuel for the tower (fish oil, then coal) became the old school for
the lighthouse keepers after the war, and now houses an original multimedia
museum, a visit to which is even cheaper than one to the cinema.
A visit to the Baleines museum
takes place with a virtual guide,
who is none other than Jamy
Gourmaud, the presenter of the
scientific television programme
for the general public, C’est pas
sorcier (It’s dead easy !). In his
own way, at the same time both
amusing and educational, the
Tintin of television journalists
plunges the visitor into the
adventure of the lighthouses, by
the way of screens activated by
red push buttons at child height.
We so learn, amongst other
things, that the lighthouses
were, in the past, simple towers
with braziers at the top which
page 24 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009
were keep alight; these were
replaced in the 18th century
by whale oil lamps and then
by paraffin oil lamps. The range of the lights was increased by the use of
parabolic mirrors, which were in turn increased by the invention of the
Fresnel lens (by Augustin-Jean Fresnel in 1822). From then on, lighthouse
optical systems have not stopped improving, notably with the arrival of
electricity at the end of the 19th century...
There are a thousand treasures in the lighthouse shop to make young and
old alike dream: plenty of books at friendly prices, wooden pirate swords,
models of boats, posters or scale models of all the French lighthouses,
shells and ornaments on the theme of the sea... There are two permanent
exhibitions at the foot of the tower: 1900s postcards about the lighthouse
and its surroundings, and photographs of the former ferry crossings and the
construction of the bridge. Fascinating.
The oldest lighthouse in France – maybe even Europe – after Cordouan (1611),
the old Baleines tower could have its panoramic lantern restored. In any case
“We’re considering it”, confirms Dominique Magord, the site director. This
would duly complete the restoration of the oldest of the Baleines, classified
as a Historical Monument in 1904.
The local know-how of the Logis du Pertuis
has no need of preconceived ideas to invent
top of the range houses.
W
“
e work à la carte to ensure that our clients’ projects
are as close as possible to their dreams.” Thus Michel
Gérarduzzi emphasises the haute-couture expertise of
the Logis de Pertuis: roof terrace, interior atrium with
trees, roughcast wall coatings, contemporary design,
decoration adapted to a Louis 15th chest of drawers... depending on the
demands of the all important client, a house with a Logis de Pertuis signature
can be a one off. It goes without saying that it would be of irreproachable
quality and built to last.
The other essential commitment of this prestigious company is sustainable
development. Its bioclimatic show house in Royan concentrates on what is
best in the matter of energy performance: photo-voltaic solar panels, solar
water-heater, Monomur bricks with narrow joints, ventilation by a puits
canadien (an earth/air heat exchanger), an air/water heat pump, double flow
CMV, shutter adjustment solar captors, a cooling pool, water economy taps,
movement captors to manage the extinction of lights, automatic garden
watering by the drip method using saved rain water…
All this for a heating bill divided by four!
As sustainable development rhymes with fair
trade, Logis de Pertuis has not forgotten the ‘low’
budgets. In these times of crisis - that needs to be
underlined - even the models at the bottom of the
range integrate the main principals in the brands
specifications: the orientation is optimised, large
bay windows, high performance bricks, underfloor
ventilation space, taps with ceramic washers…
The conception is original and audacious, the
construction is perfect, building materials
are innovative, with modern, state-of-the-art
technology : to all these exemplary qualities, Logis de Pertuis houses add
an aesthetic quality that respects the local charter on architecture and
landscaping. And the company guarantees truly personalised service for all
its models: help with finding the finance, choice of land visualised
thanks to Geoportail, successive preliminary drawings of plans,
assistance in dealing with administrative and financial calculations.
The cherry on the cake: the six Logis du Pertuis agencies are local,
and that's what really makes the difference!
Photos courtesy of Logis du Pertuis
individual house builder
Tel. 05
www.logis-du-pertuis.com
info
Ticket price: to climb the tower and visit the museum: 5 E (adults) or 2.50 E (children)
Contact: 05 46 29 18 23 - www.lepharedesbaleines.fr - See map page 14.
46 87 03 07
Registered Office:
rochefort - Ile d'Oléron: SAINT-pierre & grand-village - LA ROCHELLE - ROYAN - SAINTES
zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 25
further away
aDvertisement
Aulnay
further away
A church representative of Saintonge Romanesque
art (beginning of the 12th century).
Brouage
Fortified citadel of the 17th century.
Fort Boyard
Construction began under Napoleon in 1801, but
unfortunately wasn’t finished until 1857 - by which
time the range
of cannons had
increased, and the
fort was utterly
redundant.
Since 1990, hosts a
game show of the
same name, remade
across the globe.
Jonzac
visits & discoveries
In Jonzac the magnificent Renaissance chateau
watchs over the land issued from a nourishing
river. Where the ancestral know-how of the
winegrowers and the millers mingles with a
world of leasure dedicated to the pleasures of
water; salutary and fun. Bienvenue to this lovely
corner of France where
la vie est belle.
jonzac
14th and 17th century chateau. Thermal town.
See page 27.
marais poitevin
Pays
rochefortAIS
Tours, activities, discoveries and gastronomy.
For further details, see the official web site of
the Rochefort Area Tourist Office:
www.paysrochefortais-tourisme.com
Also see page 31
rochefort
Maritime Arsenal: National Naval Museum, Corderie Royale (Rope Factory),
Rebuilding of the Hermione (frigate built in the Rochefort Arsenal in 1780).
Town centre:
Pierre Loti’s House, Hôtel Hèbre de Saint-Clément
(both classified “Musée de France”), Commerces
d’Autrefois (Museum of old shops), Begonia
Greenhouse (1,500 species and varieties),
the unique Transporter Bridge, a masterpiece
of metallic architecture built in 1900...
port des barques / ile madame Ecomuseum and aquaculture farm.
fouras Seaside resort. On the right bank of the Charente river. 11th
century Fort Vauban, Regional museum, Fort Enet. Departures for the Ile d’Aix.
echillais 12th to 15th century Romanesque church.
ILE D'AIX Musée Napoléon, Musée Africain, Liédot Fort, Maison de la Nacre,
beaches and rocky coves.
page 26 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009
marennes
France’s first site for oyster culture. St-Pierre church.
pons
Medieval monuments. Usson Renaissance chateau.
ile d'oléron
Joined to the continent
by a bridge, long beaches
lined with dunes, maritime
pine forests, small ports and
charming villages.
royan
50’s seaside resort and Coubre forest. Beaches with
fine sand of the Côte Sauvage (wild coast).
saintes
Gallo-Roman town, Arc de
Romanesque churches, abbey.
Triomphe,
arenas,
Jonzac’s Renaissance chateau.
L
ess than an hour from Bordeaux and Cognac, just a few cable
lengths from the Gironde estuary and the Royan beaches, Jonzac
is now an essential tourist stop in Charente Maritime. A lovely
corner of France with as much sun as the Mediterranean, where
it is pleasant to stop in the shadow of the Chateau, or on a café
terrace to have a café-crème and croissants.
As far as outings are concerned, Jonzac and its region have more than
enough to occupy weekends and even holidays. The old town, ‘bénie des
dieux’ (blessed by the gods) as the inhabitants say, has more than one beauty
to present: a Renaissance chateau classified as an historical monument,
carefully preserved medieval alleyways, the thousand year old lower town
full of mysteries, a charming Italianate theatre, a fascinating archaeological
site, a river (the Seugne) which invites pastoral laziness… The Jonzac market,
in the market hall which is as young as the Eiffel Tower, opens its gates four
times a week throughout the year; its stalls overflow with seasonal produce,
fruit and vegetables, cheeses and foie gras… As for the two mills, water and
wind, they have been put back into service and produce flour and walnut oil,
as in the past, under the public gaze. And don't miss the Maison de l'énergie
which relates the wondrous story of Jonzac’s urban heating as well as
Saint-Jean d'Angély
Rich architectural inheritance.
Benedictine abbey-church towers.
Haussan hotel – Pilori fountain.
Clock
Free visit of the
Château
every
Wednesday at 4 pm
in July and August
& all year round at
the Tourist Office,
a free brochure in
English on walks
around Jonzac is
available.
tower,
La Palmyre Zoo
Over 1600 animals. The most visited zoo in France.
Antilles Aquatic Centre. Open all year round, 7/7.
various energy-related topics from a concrete
yet playful angle (entrance free).
If you have itchy feet, leave Jonzac, adventure
into the heart of the Haute-Saintonge and
immerse yourself in the landscapes of
vineyards, forests and Romanesque churches.
The Route européenne du Cognac, du Pineau et
des vins de Pays charentais (the European route
of Cognac, Pineau and wines from the Pays
charentais), in particular, leads you into the
tasting tours, to discover the traditions of our
wine growers and the ancestral stills of our
home distillers.
It is impossible to stay in Jonzac without taking
advantage of the element that gave birth to it: water. It is omnipresent.
From the river to the Antilles Aquatic Centre (open all year round 7/7), from
the leisure centre to the thermal baths created out of superb stone quarries,
passing by the subterranean table, the water of which is famous for its
therapeutic virtues. Water, c’est la vie and c’est magnifique !
info
Tourist Office
22 place du Château - 17500 Jonzac
Tel. 05 46 48 49 29
Fax 05 46 48 51 07
E-mail: [email protected]
www.jonzac.fr
Site en Scène Festival, Jonzac, 2008.
Photos © CDCHS / V. Sabadel
Barge outings on the canals through the marshes.
zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 27
the truffle hound
aDvertisement
Photos by Sylvie Curty
orphée, the
truffle hound
“
G
page 28 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009
Exceptional 4-star village near the Atlantic ocean
Séquoia Parc 
Orphée has a nose (truffe) trained to dig
up truffles (mushrooms). But you must
not take her for an idiot (une truffe): all
work merits a reward - a piece of cheese!
Unlike pigs, she is not a truffivore, but an
excellent truffle hunter (truffière). And
totally devoted to her master trufficulteur
Charles Lasalle. Go find it Orphée !
o on, find it ! Find it, Orphée ! ” In his truffle ground at
Jarnac-Champagne near Pons, Charles Lassale’s eyes do
not leave Orphée, his labrador, for a second. Of course
she is not a Lagotto Romagnolo (the Rolls Royce of truffle
hounds), but her muzzle is still a nose worth its weight in
gold. The experienced dog advances rapidly, nose to the ground. Suddenly
she stops, marks the ground with her paw for an instant and then digs up
a truffle with a rapid
movement. When it is
buried deeper, it has to
be got out with the help
of a small mattock called
a ‘truffadou’ or ‘cavadou’.
After having rewarded
Orphée with a piece of
cheese, Charles picks up
the truffle and estimates
its weight to be about
100 or 120 grams, a good
size for the beginning
of the season (we are
in May). Then he lifts it
to his nose: “It is fragrant, but not quite ripe.” It has a typical smell: of damp
undergrowth, peppery mould... It is a Tuber aestivum, also named the “SaintJean truffle” with its white marbled flesh.
Charles planted his truffle ground with young oaks in straight lines, in places
green oaks with ‘olive leaves’, in others oaks with ‘holly leaves’. Charles
sowed his mycorhized acorns (1) in 1980, but did not get his first harvest until
seventeen years later : “The patience and wisdom of the trufficulteur are
proverbial !” he says. His experienced eye knows where to find the truffles:
“You see the areas where the grass is dying? We call that the burns, that’s
where they are hiding…”. But the eye is not enough; only Orphée’s sense of
Photos courtesy of Séquoia Parc
A golden
nose
Text by Charles Vincent
published in issue n° 13 of
Charente Maritime Magazine, 2008.
smell is capable of choosing those
that are ripe enough to be ‘cavées’
(picked up, dug up).
In the kitchen of his manor house,
Domaine des Tonneaux, built by his
great grand father in 1850, Charles
Lassalle reveals the secret of the
truffle omelette (2) ; as well as the
recipes for truffle butter, truffle
cream, truffle oil ...
The Charente-Maritime Truffle
Association, of which he is
president, gathers together some
150 members (3 to 400 hectares of truffle grounds). They all use dogs.
Pigs are also excellent truffle hunters, but they are inconvient as they are
cumbersome, unkempt, and above all, too greedy! As for the legendary
hunting technique ‘à la mouche’ from Perigord (3), nobody has ever tried it
around here …
Charles strokes Orphée with tenderness. If he is happy when he fills his
basket in the truffle grounds, it's not the crop that counts the most : “As
hunters often say, the interest is to watch one’s dog working!” Orphée’s
daughter, Esra, 4 months old, is going to be trained this summer. Her mother
has a caramel coat, whereas Esra is black. Like the queen of the truffles, the
black diamond, the superb Tuber melanosporum (4).
1. The process that consists of putting the acorns into truffle juice to make their roots grow before planting them.
2.Put 8 fresh eggs and the truffles in an airtight container for 48 hours (like all fatty substances, eggs absorb the flavour
of the truffles). An hour before cooking the omelette beat the eggs with 3 tablespoons of milk, 1 teaspoon of cognac, salt,
pepper and 20 grams of grated truffle.
3. The Suilla gigantean, a small elongated fly with orange eyes, commonly called ‘truffle fly’, is attracted by the smell of
the ripe truffle and lays her eggs above them. She enables the truffle hunter to localise the truffles.
4. The Tuber melanosporum, commonly called the black truffle from Périgord, has a very strong smell, and is found in
Dordogne, the Lot, and in the South-East of France.
In the Charente-Maritime, a quiet, unspoilt and
lesser known part of France, lies Séquoia Parc,
a magnificient 110 acre domaine where nature
flourishes under the blue skies of the Atlantic coast.
Castel camping Séquoia Parc is
a wonderful destination for a relaxing and
invigorating holiday where family and friends will
find harmony and well-being.
Getting there by car
I
n the heart of the Marennes-Oléron basin, the magnificent
domain of La Josephtrie has become, under the direction of
Renato and Nicole Pennino Kramer, a privileged holiday resort.
It now serves as the setting for the Castel camping site Séquoia
Parc, a luxurious, four-star complex. The chateau, built in 1852,
has many outbuildings, in which are housed the reception, minigrocery, restaurant, video games room, children’s club... while the
comfortable cottages and chalets of different sizes are spread over, and
in, the surrounding fields and woods.
In these climes, between the pony club, the tennis courts and the
sports grounds, the possibilities to enjoy oneself are numerous. There
is even a mini-farm for the great pleasure of children, with rabbits,
goats, geese, turkeys, chickens… Not forgetting enchanted setting of
the aquatic complex where some can relax in the shade of the palm
trees and tropical plants, while others can enjoy themselves with the
toboggans and water games. The ideal place for a restful and relaxing
stay, which is livened up by the animated evenings, a gastronomic
restaurant, and a bar with its house cocktails.
From Séquoia Parc, you can set out to explore, in every direction, the
numerous attractions of this enticing region: Ile d’Oléron’s stunning
beaches and its wild coastline; the marshes, haunts of many migrating
birds; the fortifications (Brouage, Fort Louvois, Fort Boyard); or La
Coubre forest, with all its hiking trails and bike paths.
info
Easy motorway access
Whether you're coming from the north or the south
the A10 motorway (autoroute) passes by Saintes.
Take the Saintes exit and follow signs for Ile d’Oleron
on the D 728. Pass through Saint-Just de Luzac village
and turn right after the silo.
Saintes - Séquoia Parc : 35 kms
La Josephtrie
17320 Saint-Just Luzac
Tel. 05 46 85 55 55
Fax 05 46 85 55 56
www.sequoiaparc.com
zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 29
ile d'aix
creeks and inlets
Bike ride
on the Ile d'AIX
creeks and inlets
Text by Charles Vincent published in issue
n° 11 of Charente Maritime Magazine, 2006.
In ancient times, Aix was inhabited by monks
and birds. Then History, jealous of the island’s
simple happiness, came to torment it. At stake
in rivalries between kings, it became a fortress,
which was one day laid waste by the English.
Napoleon I made it his home, insubordinate
priests their charnel house, the Bomarsund
Russians and the FLN Algerians their prison. And
the artillery captain, Choderlos de Laclos, finished
his “Liaisons dangereuses” (1) there. Today, even
though its enchanted creekbeds attract hordes
of tourists in summer, a palpable peace reigns
again. Come in May; there’s not a living soul.
Except that of the island...
page 30 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009
Photos by Peggy Landon
F
riday, May 5th, 2006, 10.35a.m. From the bridge of the “PierreLoti”, Fouras and the Pointe de la Fumée disappear into the
distance, and the exhaust fumes of our ferry mix with the wind
and the spray. The massive outline of Fort Enet has hardly faded
in the ferry’s wake when one can already make out, on the quay
of the island, below its fortifications, the friendly silhouette of our guide on
his bike.
Pierre Privat (2) is a direct descendant (on his mother’s side) of one of the
oldest Aix families (middle of the XVIIth century), to which the sixty-odd
tombs in the Jamblet cemetery bear witness. We couldn’t wish for a worthier
guide. First step: to rent bikes; they’re less picturesque than a carriage, but
are quicker and will go anywhere. Pierre advises us to visit Olivier & his team,
the ‘bike pros’ on the island. Firmly in the saddle, we leave the village passing
by the church door. The mild, May weather is ideal for a bike ride without
suffering from the heat.
At Les Ormeaux we make a halt; there, somewhere in the vicinity of
“Charlemagne’s house”, Pierre Privat shows us the invisible vestiges of a
monastery built by the Benedictines around 800 AD. At that time, life on
the island must have been as peaceful as it is now, but later the island had
its share of suffering, as during the invasion by the English in 1757, which
saw houses and crops destroyed and the church of Saint-Martin sacked. “The
English behaved like brutes here”, says our guide, almost sadly, as if the island
were part of him.
Spare the rod and spoil the child; in evoking an insular life, Pierre Privat is taking
a gentle dig at human shortcomings, which are the same everywhere. “It’s a
bit like Corsica here; 257 people on the electoral rolls for 200 inhabitants (3),
who spy on each other out of the corner of their eye. There are those who go
to church and then the others, those of the Left and those of the Right... On a
rock of 3km long, inevitably, one is always unhappy about something or other.
Although one may be a homebody, one runs to the Mayor for the slightest
thing”. However, it’s true that there’s not a policeman on the island...
We ride around the northernmost part of the island, glancing nostalgically
at Fort Coudepont, which lost its “magician-gardener” last year (4). Then we
pass the Anse des Sables Jaunes (Yellow Sands Cove), previously called the
Anse de la Source (the Spring), supplier of stone for the construction of Fort
Boyard. Oh, nature’s really stunning around here! These deep creeks resemble
Mediterranean calanques; under these rocky promontories the transparent
water is as blue as in more southern seas, and the path, which winds along
under the green oaks, playing hide-and-seek with the light, makes one regret
not being a painter... Pierre Privat brings us back to earth: “They would like to
make the island of Aix a tourists’ paradise. That’s all very well, but one must
measure the impact of this on local life. In summer, we have up to 300,000
visitors on our 129 hectares; sometimes you’d think yourself on Mont-SaintMichel!” It is true that between two tourist seasons the grass has hardly time
to grow back, rather like after the Huns
passing through...
A deafening sputtering makes us look up:
“That’s the Civil Security helicopter from
Laleu”, remarks our guide. “This helicopter
and the S.N.S.M. (2) team between them
ensure there’ll never be a problem in case
of emergency on this rock!” We detour from
the track to visit the old Saint-Eulard battery,
or what remains of it: vestiges of walls
overgrown by vegetation in the manner of a
Khmer temple in the Cambodian jungle.
Back in the village again, we swing by the
abbey that belonged to the Cluny monks,
where the striking XIth century crypt
served for many years as an ossuary of the
remains of 300 priests deported during the
Revolution. Difficult to imagine that this
charming island, with which we have just fallen in love, has known such
painful episodes in the past...
It’s already 2.50p.m. To our regret, we go to the quay to wait for the “exiles”
ferry. Before returning to his islander’s occupations, Pierre Privat has just
enough time to point out a curious metallic ramp on the roof of one of the
village houses. It’s “Jeanne’s tooth”, another story...
1. Read “L’Histoire de l’ile d’Aix”, by Pierre-Antoine Berniard (Éditions Bordessoules).
2. Pierre Privat is well-known on the island of Aix because he’s involved in many associations there, as well as on the
mainland. Since 2001 he’s been the Aix correspondent of the paper “L’Hebdo de Charente-Maritime” (Charente-Maritime
Weekly), in which he has had published more than 500 articles. He has also, moreover, taken over the presidency of the
Aix sea-rescue station of the S.N.S.M. (National Society of Sea-Rescue). He is the co-author (with Raymond Loedec) of a
magnificent book, published in 2004 (Éditions Rubella), entitled: “Autrefois... l’ile d’Aix” (The Island of Aix as it once was).
3. Smallest commune in France (in 2006).
4. Paul Pécherat. Read “Athanor or Priape's garden”. Charente-Maritime magazine n° 6 and n° 10.
5. “A collection of the bones of the rebellious priests who died in 1793 on pontoons anchored off Aix, was put in the
church’s crypt by Admiral Louis Maudet, mayor of the island in 1888-90 (...). At the beginning of the ‘70s, these bones were
reverently regrouped near the high altar”. Pierre-Antoine Berniard.
Acces to the island
All year round from Fouras (30km south of La Rochelle) by the Service Maritime de l'Ile d'Aix.
Tel. 0 820 16 00 17 (0,12€/min.) - www.service-maritime-iledaix.com
Croisières Inter Iles - www.inter-iles.com - Tel. 0 825 135 500 (0,15€/min.)
Departures from La Rochelle du 9 April to 31 October
From Sablanceaux (Ile de Ré) from April 9 to 30 September
Navipromer (1st April - 30 September)
Departures from La Rochelle: www.navipromer.com - Tel./Fax 05 46 01 52 96 & 06 08 31 04 62
Also from the Ile d'Oléron, Rochefort, Port des Barques. See www.iledaix.fr
Bike hire available on the island.
zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009 > page 31
Mini glossary
Even if you insist that your French is nonexistant,
just saying ”Bonjour” and “Merci” and making
the effort to try and say a few words will most
definitely get you a smile and, who knows, after
a few days, you might find yourself chatting away
with the boulanger!
UK > FR
FR > UK
THANK YOU > M
E
R
C
I
Please
Good morning/afternoon
Good-bye
S’il vous plaît / S’il te plaît
Bonjour
Au revoir
Hello/Hi/'Bye
Salut
How are you?
Comment allez-vous ?
Very well thank you.
Très bien, merci.
Thank you very much.
Merci beaucoup.
No thank you.
I don’t speak French very well.
Do you speak English?
I come from ...
Is it far [to walk] [to drive]?
What time does it open/close?
I reserved a room for
... nights.
We are leaving tomorrow.
Before midday
Non merci.
Je ne parle pas très bien français.
Parlez-vous anglais ?
Je viens de ...
C’est loin [à pied] [en voiture] ?
À quelle heure c’est ouvert/fermé ?
J’ai réservé une chambre
pour ... nuits.
Nous partons demain.
Avant midi
Can we have the bill please?
L’addition s’il vous plaît.
Does this bus go to ...
Est-ce que ce bus va à ...
At what time is the
last bus?
Where can I rent a car?
Could you please call
a taxi for me?
To the railway station.
Where can I find a newspaper
in English?
page 32 > zoom Travel Guide N° 3 • 2009
ONE
TWO
THREE
FOUR
FIVE
SIX
SEVEN
EIGHT
NINE
TEN
ELEVEN
TWELVE
THIRTEEN
FOURTEEN
FIFTEEN
SIXTEEN
SEVENTEEN
EIGHTEEN
NINETEEN
TWENTY
TWENTY-ONE...
THIRTY
FOURTY
FIFTY
SIXTY
SEVENTY
EIGHTY
NINETY
ONE HUNDRED
THOUSAND
À quelle heure est
le dernier bus ?
Où est-ce que je peux louer
une voiture ?
Pourriez-vous m’appeler
un taxi s’il vous plaît ?
À la gare.
Où est-ce que je peux trouver
un journal en anglais ?
HIGH TIDE
LOW TIDE
MARÉE HAUTE
MARÉE BASSE
RAIN
SUN
CLOUDS
COLD/HOT
PLUIE
SOLEIL
NUAGES
CHAUD/FROID
50° Farenheit
(thereafter, add 9° F
for every 5° C)
A space or a full stop is used in French
where English places a comma :
English: 1,000.50 French: 1.000,50
10° Celcius
1 ounce
1 pound
1 stone
28,35 grammes
0,453 kilogramme
6,348 kilogrammes
1 pint
1.7 pints
0,57 litres
1 litre
1 foot
1 yard
1 mile
1 nautical mile
1 knot
30,48 centimètres
91,44 centimètres
1.609 kilomètres
1.852 mètres
1 nœud
UN
DEUX
TROIS
QUATRE
CINQ
SIX
SEPT
HUIT
NEUF
DIX
ONZE
DOUZE
TREIZE
QUATORZE
QUINZE
SEIZE
DIX-SEPT
DIX-HUIT
DIX-NEUF
VINGT
VINGT ET UN...
TRENTE
QUARANTE
CINQUANTE
SOIXANTE
SOIXANTE-DIX
QUATRE-VINGTS
QUATRE-VINGT-DIX
CENT
MILLE
MONDAY
TUESDAY
WEDNESDAY
THURSDAY
FRIDAY
SATURDAY
SUNDAY
LUNDI
MARDI
MERCREDI
JEUDI
VENDREDI
SAMEDI
DIMANCHE
JANUARY
FEBRUARY
MARCH
APRIL
MAY
JUNE
JULY
AUGUST
SEPTEMBER
OCTOBER
NOVEMBER
DECEMBER
JANVIER
FÉVRIER
MARS
AVRIL
MAI
JUIN
JUILLET
AOÛT
SEPTEMBRE
OCTOBRE
NOVEMBRE
DÉCEMBRE
WINTER
SPRING
SUMMER
AUTUMN
HIVER
PRINTEMPS
ÉTÉ
AUTOMNE