a topo of the climb

E du nord
Version 1.2 2.9.2014
Stetind north face
Grade 8R, 1500 m, appr 20 pitches. 15.7 and 30-31.8 2014.
Mats Peder Mosti, Steinar
Grynning and Jo Arve Repp
Scrambling / easy climbing in upper
part. Grade 3-4+
7 / 35 m
7+ / 45 m. Sustained
7+ / 65 m. Sustained
8R / 40m. One fixed knife blade
5+ / 45m. Highpoint 1. attempt
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©isklatring.no
!! Watch out for ice/rock
fall in the lower part of
the route (below nr 19).
High risk most of the
season
First pitch after the routes splits: From the left
of the “Budda hylla” up leftwards to dihedral.
55 m, 7- X. No protection the last 30-40 meters, crux at the finish.
Same start as the 1985-route
©isklatring.no
The lower part of the route is climbed
ground up, on sight. The crux pitch
is cleaned and tested on rappell. The
final dihedrals are climbed without any
cleaning or testing.
The middle section and upper parts
follow ledge systems and is climbed
with running belay.