JanFeb2003 - Dream of Italy

dreamITALY103
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Page 1
INSIDE:
Italy in America 3
My Favorite Venetian 4
Rome’s Hotel Restaurants 6
Mount Etna Awakes 8
News, Tips, Deals and
Events 10
dream of
ITALY
Volume 2, Issue 1
www.dreamofitaly.com
January/February 2003
Bargains Abound at the
Prada and Gucci Outlets
T
he build-up is intense. First you
have to find the elusive
Prada Outlet (officially called
Space) among the nondescript
buildings in the town of
Montevarchi, 45 minutes from
Florence. Prada doesn’t put any sign
on the warehouse where it houses its
outlet, and the directions it gives out
aren’t much help either. Luckily, any
good citizen of Montevarchi knows the
place and has probably been asked
about it a thousand times already.
Then there’s the whole issue of taking
a number. Prada allows only 100 shoppers inside at one time and averages
about 1,000 visitors a day. So it
employs a rather space age looking
computerized counter to allot numbers
to those shoppers raring to get inside.
The wait time can be just a few
minutes or a matter of hours.
Again, by shrewd planning on the part
of Prada, there’s a café on-site for you
to patronize while you wait. In
addition to the very good
food, the café serves up
some fine people watching.
Many of the customers,
Asians, Americans, Brits
and Italians alike, are
dressed in their Prada best
and some look like they are
about to walk down the runway. But then there’s also
the usual tourists in shorts
and sneakers. And don’t worry, as you
eat, you can stare longingly at the
monitor, indicating the number of the
next group to go inside, willing it to
move faster.
Once inside, it’s hard to choose which
section to attack first. As you enter,
shoes are directly in front of you, with
The Details
Prada Outlet
LOCATION: Levanella Spacceo,
Strada Statale 69, Montevarchi
Phone: (39) 055 978-94-81
HOURS: Monday - Saturday,
9:30 a.m. – 7:00 p.m. and
Sunday, 2:00 p.m. – 7:00 p.m.
DRIVING: From the A1 motorway, take the
exit marked Baldano. Follow the signs for
Arezzo and then for Montevarchi. You will
pass through a series of traffic lights and
there will be a warehouse/factory on your
left. That’s Prada. There is no sign on the
building; just follow the people. TRAIN:
Take the train from Florence’s Santa
Maria Novella Station to Montevarchi
(1 hour) and continue by taxi (about 20
minutes) to the outlet.
Gucci Outlet
LOCATION: Via Europa 8, Leccio,
Reggello 50060 Phone: (39) 055 865-77-75
HOURS: Monday - Saturday,
10 a.m. – 7:00 p.m. and
Sunday, 3:00 p.m. – 7:00 p.m.
DRIVING: From the A1 motorway, take
the exit marked Incisa. Stay on the right
towards Pontassieve until reaching
Leccio. Soon after passing the center of
Leccio, The Mall will be on the left.
TRAIN: Take the train from Florence’s
Santa Maria Novella Station to Rignano
sull’Arno and continue by taxi (about 5
minutes) to Leccio. SHUTTLE BUS:
There’s a daily service from Florence to
and from The Mall. Call (39) 055 865-7775 for more information.
“Was it in short, ever well to be elsewhere when one might be in Italy?” — Edith Wharton
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Prada/Gucci continued from page 1
handbags, accessories and collection
pieces to the right and skin care, sunglasses and sportswear to the left. And
the prices are to die for…
2
During a recent summer sale (20% off
the already deep discounts), small classic Prada handbags were offered at the
equivalent of $70 each, leather key
holders at $30, beautiful women’s moccasins (similar to J.P. Tod’s) at $50.
These were the best
bargains and prices
went up from there.
So you could still
spend several hundred dollars on a
purse, but that’s likely
to be half of its original price. Then there’s
the fact that if you
spend over 185 euros
(essentially $185 at the
current exchange
rate), you get the
value-added tax (VAT)
back when you leave
the country. That’s
20.6%. And how can
you not spend several hundred dollars,
stocking up on gifts for the folks at
home and presents for yourself.
International shopping guru Suzy
Gershman says outlet shopping is the
smartest way to shop in Italy these
days. “I feel that with the euro, and
now the much weaker dollar, Italian
outlets are the only way to go,” notes
Gershman, author of Suzy Gershman’s
Born to Shop: Italy (Frommer’s, 2001).
“The savings and quality are great,”
she adds.
0
0
A h
As with American outlets, Italian outlets, including Prada, are the final stops
for last season’s merchandise. So you
will find the fluorescent green flats that
didn’t sell or the shirt with the shredded look that fashionistas wouldn’t be
caught dead in.
Yet, Gershman cautions that there can
be some real finds in the mix as well.
“Old merchandise can be classical
Prada. It’s housed in an elegant strip
mall, called The Mall, along with
Bottega Veneta, Giorgio Armani, Loro
Piana, Sergio Rossi and Yves Saint
Laurent outlets.
Thankfully, there’s no numbers system
or waiting to get in, although the outlet
can get crowded. Gucci’s décor exudes
more elegance than Prada’s and items
are carefully displayed on glass
shelves. Handbags, shoes, accessories,
men’s clothing and women’s clothing
each has a separate salon.
_
_
enough to not matter,” she says. Keep
in mind that all of the merchandise
came from Italian or European stores,
so you could still out-fashion your
neighbor by buying pieces that may
have never been sold in the United
States.
The outlet carries all of Prada’s lines
including Miu Miu, Helmut Lang, Jil
Sander and Church’s shoes. The staff is
incredibly helpful and free of the attitude you will find at many of the
label’s stores throughout the world.
Next stop, Gucci. The Gucci Outlet is
only about a half-hour’s drive from
Gucci seems to
have a better selection of classic
pieces than Prada.
You can snap up a
beautiful black
leather wallet for
$75. The best find
of a summer shopping spree: a
small, leather
purse for $45.
Men’s ties were
also about $45. As
with Prada, Gucci
will give you a
cloth drawstring
bag for each of
your items.
“At Gucci, I got such bargains, I am
still drooling, such as a blue silk sports
jacket for my singer-songwriter son, for
$125,” Gershman boasts.
Again, factor in the VAT refund if you
spend enough.
If dropping cash makes you hungry,
try the café called Café at the entrance
of The Mall. It keeps with the shopping-theme by continuously playing
fashion videos on screens around the
restaurant.
Start saving, the outlets are waiting. ◆
“Open my heart and you will see/ Grave
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Italy in America:
Patsy’s in New York City
A
s a magnet for so many Italian
immigrants over the years,
New York City is
home to an enormous number of Italian restaurants.
On almost every block
throughout the five boroughs you will find a northern or southern Italianinspired restaurant or a pizza
joint. One among them has
catapulted to great fame and stayed
there: Patsy’s has been a midtown
Manhattan landmark since 1944.
Pasquale and Concetta Scognamillo,
who emigrated from Naples in the early
1920s, started Patsy’s. Ultimately, the
immigration officials at Ellis Island are
responsible for the restaurant’s name,
since they shortened “Pasquale” to
“Patsy.” While Patsy has since passed
on, his legacy lives on in a second and
third generation of Scognamillos who
now run the restaurant.
the founder’s Neapolitan roots. For
dessert, there’s cannoli and tiramisu.
Another attraction — Patsy’s is still a
family affair and
their devotion to
the restaurant is
endless. Patsy,
who dressed in a
gray busboy jacket
so customers
wouldn’t be intimidated to ask him for another glass of
water, set the tone. When Patsy’s
daughter Anna was getting married,
he told her, “You better pick a day
when the restaurant is closed, or most
of the family won’t be able to come to
your wedding. I’m not going to close
the restaurant.” Today, Patsy’s son is
likely to seat you, his daughter and
daughter-in-law sit at the register and
his grandson oversees the kitchen.
In addition to the food and atmosphere, Patsy’s has something else,
what you could call “star quality.”
Why do people keep coming back to
Every since it opened its doors, Patsy’s
Patsy’s, decade after decade? For one,
has been a favorite haunt for generathe food hasn’t changed. Patsy’s still
tions of showbiz celebrities. A glance at
offers the same authentic Southern
the restaurant’s Wall of Fame shows
Italian dishes it always did. The words
framed photographs
“nouveau” and “fusion”
with salutations from the
have probably never been
likes of Jackie Gleason
spoken inside this restaurant.
Patsy’s Italian Restaurant and James Cagney and
236 West 56th Street
contemporary stars such
New
York,
NY
10019
as Tom Hanks and
On the menu: Eggplant
(212) 247-3491
George Clooney.
Parmigiana; Mussels
Open Sunday through Thursday,
Arreganta; stuffed mushrooms;
noon to 10:00 p.m. and
Yet, Patsy’s most loyal
Minestrone Soup. Current coFriday & Saturday,
and most famous patron
owner Sal Scognamillo says
noon to 11:15 p.m.
www.patsys.com
was Frank Sinatra. Patsy’s
he’s been serving “redwas his home away from
sauce dishes,” such as Penne
home and he loved the Clams Posillipo,
Bolognese and Linguine Napolitano, even
Chicken Picatta, Veal Milanese and
when they went out of style. You can
Pasticiotto (a lemon custard tart topped
taste tradition in every bite. Patsy’s
with vanilla ice cream) for dessert. The
Fettucine Alfredo is made the old-fashScognamillos are still honoring their
ioned Neapolitan way with egg yolks.
favorite patron, who died in 1998.
The seafood — Cassuola di Calamari,
Every year on his birthday, December
Shrimp Scampi — also pay homage to
Visit:
12th, they serve one of his favorite
desserts to every guest in the restaurant.
Despite the reverential treatment he
gave to Sinatra, there is one order
Patsy wouldn’t fill for the superstar.
When Sinatra asked Patsy to open a
branch near his Palm Springs home,
Patsy said, “Can’t do it. To be good we
have to be at one restaurant, we have
to watch every little thing, and we
can’t do that in two places.” The family
has remained true to the founder’s
vision and maintains just one location
— the original one. ◆
For more on Patsy’s, read
Patsy’s Cookbook: Classic Italian Recipes
from a New York City Landmark
Restaurant (Clarkson Potter, 2002)
by Sal Scognamillo.
3
dream of
ITALY
Kathleen A. McCabe
Publisher and Editor-In-Chief
Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe
Design: Leaird Designs
www.leaird-designs.com
Dream of Italy, a 12-page newsletter covering Italian
travel and culture, is published bi-monthly. The
newsletter is available by annual subscription only at
an introductory rate of $45 for delivery by mail and
$35 via the Internet.
Copyright © 2003 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights
Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without permission is prohibited.
Three ways to subscribe:
1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496,
Washington, D.C., 20016
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3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com
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Sponsorship and advertising opportunities are
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Our Web site, www.dreamofitaly.com, is updated
weekly with the latest news from Italy and information on travel deals.
ed inside it, ‘Italy.’ ” —Robert Browning
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My Favorite Vene
I
4
went to Venice with my husband and our blended family,
but found myself drawn to
another man, a
man I met
almost as soon as I set
foot in Venice. From
that moment on, the
handsome, immaculately groomed and welldressed gentleman was
always there for me. He
anticipated my every
need. He responded to
me warmly and was
attentive no matter how
many other people competed for his attention.
He was thoughtful and
knowledgeable. We
spoke of art, culture and
shopping.
and is a non-stop source of both substantial and trivial information. Andrea
stores the nuances of Venice in his
head. I never saw him
look anything up. I was
surprised at how often
I conferred with him,
since I had been to
Venice twice before and
had diligently read up
before this trip.
My husband and I and
all of our four kids,
ranging in age from 16
to 28, frequently counted on Andrea to weigh
our options for us. His
recommendations
always made sense,
before and afterward.
He knew the right time
to drop into ultraAndrea Scarpa, concierge extraordiWhere did I find a man
naire of the Saturnia Hotel in Venice pricey Harry’s Bar for
dessert or a drink is 5
like this? Behind the
and author Ann Cochran.
p.m. He knew the
concierge desk at the
ongoing Vivaldi performances are
Hotel Saturnia.
touristy and directed us to hear the
Orchestra Collegium Ducale play
Andrea Scarpa makes quite an impresMozart and Bach in the sanctuary of
sion. He is a tall man with dark, wavy
the Santa Maria Formosa Church.
hair, clean-shaven fair skin and perfect
posture. The hotel and Andrea compleWe weren’t interested in snagging seats
ment each other in their distinctive elein the hottest restaurants, so Andrea
gance. Andrea is responsible for guest
used his gastronomic knowledge to
relations at the 95-room, four-star
direct us to places that met the descripHotel Saturnia, which is run by memtion we gave for our mood and preferbers of the 3rd and 4th generations of
ences each day. For casual meals, it
the Serandrei family. They have operatwas Vino Vino, a popular wine bar
ed this 14th century renaissance palazwhere the handlebar mustachioed man
zo as a hotel since 1908. Located on the
in charge was reminiscent of Seinfeld’s
Calle Larga XXII Marzo, just a few
Soup Nazi. He refused us service one
minutes’ walk from the Correr
night because he couldn’t handle a
Museum side of St. Mark’s Square, the
party of six. He didn’t say come back
hotel is ideally situated on a prime
later, or I’m sorry. It was just “no.” The
shopping street.
place intrigued us enough to return.
When we did, our table was laden
As concierges do, Andrea sets the tone
with inexpensive, delicious dishes —
at the front desk. He greets every guest
roasted chicken, grilled salmon, pasta
with peas and sausage and interesting
variations of lasagna. This boisterous,
two-room eatery has the atmosphere of
a neighborhood hangout despite frequent guidebook mentions.
For a dressier occasion, noting that our
four males were more meat than fish
eaters, Andrea sent us to Ai Gondolieri,
which also provides the food for the
Peggy Guggenheim Museum’s wellregarded café where we had enjoyed
mouth-watering homemade pastas and
panini the day before.
Going above and beyond is nothing
unusual for Andrea, but I especially
appreciated the way he threw in extra
advice. He kept a thick pad of maps on
his desk, and always marked them
with his recommendations and directions. As he worked on each one, he
would say something like, “on your
way to Il Cantinone wine store, make
sure you look to your left after this little bridge and you will see our most
active gondola yard, Squero di San
Trovaso.” No walk was ever Point A
to Point B.
Andrea encouraged us to bargain,
always, except in the well-known,
designer shops. With a flourish, he
said, “They’ll give you a discount if
you pay cash, they’ll give you a discount if you buy more, they’ll give you
a discount if there’s no shipping, and
then they’ll give you a gift as you walk
out the door.”
On our last full day in Venice, we
turned to Andrea for help with a major
dilemma. We had to choose between
the Naval Museum, which sounded
interesting, and Torcello, the first
Venetian lagoon island to be inhabited
as people fled the Huns in the 5th cen-
“Time flows when you rest your arms on the ledges of
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A Concierge’s Venice
etian
tury. The downside: it is an hour boat
ride away. “No choice,” Andrea insisted, “You go to Torcello. Amazing. So
different. No one goes there…such a
shame.”
He was absolutely right. It was an
other-worldly, touching experience to
visit this almost deserted island. It has
only 18 year-round residents, three
restaurants, one museum and two
churches. Its Byzantine cathedral,
founded in 639, has incredible mosaics.
Walking up the ramps of the nearby
bell tower is tiring, but the panorama
is exhilarating.
no surprise to find out he is a native.
When I asked him to tell me about
working at the Saturnia, he said that
there is very low turnover; many
employees start there and retire there,
because they find it “a pleasure to
work for the family.” Many current
staff members have been there 20 years
or more. Although his English is
almost perfect, Andrea still uses the
occasional odd wording that makes
you smile. For example, he said “There
are no standards” at the Saturnia.
When I asked him to explain, he said,
“They let you work in your best way,
not only one standard way.” That was
a relief.
Judging from our experience utilizing
Andrea’s skills, concierges can do
much more than procure hard-to-get
tickets and tables. According to the
international association Les Clefs
d’Or, which represents more than 3,000
concierges at the best international
hotels, concierges are supposed to be
living guidebooks of their cities. They
should be approachable and warm, not
intimidating.
As a travel writer, I have known and
heard about a few great concierges, but
I personally have never heard of anyone choosing a hotel based on the
concierge’s reputation for service, nor
did I ever do so. This trip changed my
mind. I checked out some other hotels
during my visit. The Monaco and
Grand Canal Hotel, for one, is undergoing a jaw-dropping renovation funded by the Benetton family owners, but
my heart belongs to the Saturnia…as
Among their ranks, it is not unusual to
long as Andrea mans the front desk.
encounter incredible linguistic ability.
He is worth coming back
Andrea speaks 5 lanto, as much as the paintguages; he told us he
ings by Tintoretto and
speaks Japanese only
Canaletto and the famous
halfway. Andrea wore the
Hotel Saturnia &
vaparettos that transport
distinctive lapel pin of Les
International Venezia
lucky resident and tourist
Clefs d’Or, two crossed
Via XXII Marzo 2398
passengers all the way up
keys. It takes a minimum
San Marco, Venice
and down the majestic
two years of experience as
www.hotelsaturnia.it
Grand Canal. ◆
a concierge and referrals
Prices: 146 to 477 euros
from two Clef D’Or memper room, per night
— Ann Cochran
bers to be considered for
(39) 041 520-7131
membership in the associaAnn Cochran is a travel,
tion.
Visit:
Although every concierge should have
a wealth of knowledge, Andrea had so
much to offer about Venice that it was
health and medical writer whose
heart and soul spring to life in Italy,
especially when her family comes along.
f Venetian windows.” —Henry James
Pasticceria Marchini is a bakery where
they not only bake, they make their own
chocolate, right before your eyes. Location:
Off Campo San Zulian on Spadaria,
676 San Marco; www.golosessi.com
Visit Coin department store for unusual
bargains on commonplace items made in
Italy and designer copies. Location:
On the Merceria, the long shopping street
that connects St. Mark’s Square with
the Rialto Bridge.
The Venice Benetton is huge, dramatically lit
at night, and a must if you have teenagers
with you. Location: Merceria 2 Aprile
Vino Vino is a good wine bar for a
quick and inexpensive meal. Location:
2007 Calle Sartor, San Marco
Try Ai Gondolieri for fine dining at one of
the few Venetian restaurants that does not
serve fish. Location: Dorsoduro 366, San Vio,
Ponte del Formager; www.aigoldolieri.com
To buy wine, visit Il Cantinone.
Location: San Trovaso 992, Dorsoduro
You must see Santa Maria Gloriosa dei
Frari Church, a breathtaking mid-15th
century church, filled with Titians and enough
other masterpieces to qualify as a museum.
Location: Campo dei Frari, San Polo
Campo Santa Margherita is wonderful
for people watching.Venetian families gather
here, children and dogs run around, students
eat pizza.Try the gelato and pastries at
Causin. Location: Dorsoduro
Shop at Genninger Studio for unusual
glass jewelry made by a wise American who
settled in Venice. Location: Calle de Traghetto,
Dorsoduro, next to Ca’Rezzonico;
www.genningerstudio.com
Visit Livio de Marchi for sculpted wood
objects, from tiny books and teddy bears to
life-size cars. Location: San Samuele 3157, San
Marco; www.liviodemarchi.com
Shop at La Calle, for Santa Maria Novella
perfume, body lotions and soaps. Location:
Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, San Marco
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Rome’s Finest Hotel
A
s a rule, hotels generally
aren’t the best places to
experience innovative, worldrenowned cuisine. But that’s
been changing over the last
decade. More and more, the
best dining throughout the
world’s capitals can be found
inside hotels. Rome is the perfect example. The city’s 4- and
5-star hotels have ushered in a
renaissance in hotel dining.
While by no means a comprehensive
list, here are some of Rome’s top hotel
restaurants:
La Terrazza
6
La Terrazza d’Hotel Eden is like a fine
recipe — all of the ingredients create
more than a sum of their parts. Take a
stunning view of Rome’s monuments,
add a healthy dose of world-famous
cuisine, mix in
romantic ambiance
and exquisite but
unpretentious
service and for
good measure, finish off with a Michelin star.
Executive Chef Enrico Derflingher,
once the personal chef to Charles and
Diana, the Prince and Princess of
Wales, is the mastermind behind La
Terrazza, on the sixth floor of the luxurious Hotel Eden. He’s been with the
restaurant since it opened in 1994.
None of the tables has a bad view
although it doesn’t hurt to ask for one
right next to the window. Few pleasures are more enjoyable than savoring
every bite of Derflingher’s creations
while watching the sun set over the
Eternal City.
The a la carte menu changes completely twice a year and is updated at least
once every season. If zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and olives
are on the menu during your visit,
you must order them. It’s
impossible to go wrong
with any dish. Even the simple penne with tomato and
mozzarella is unlike any you
have ever had.
The staff makes sure to please
your every whim and will help with
selecting from the 300 labels on the
restaurant’s wine list.
If you can’t bear to leave after your
scrumptious dinner, walk just a few
feet into the hotel’s piano bar on an
open deck overlooking the city. The
intimate setting provides the perfect
place for an after dinner drink under
the stars. It was also a favorite haunt of
Italian director Frederico Fellini who
insisted on holding interviews
here. Jacket and tie
required.
Chops Aux Herbes and Chicago Rib
Eye Steak. In deference to Italian cuisine, there are also six spaghetti dishes
on the menu. A range of desserts
await to satisfy any craving, including
Apfelstrudel and New York
Cheesecake.
Café Romano’s
location in the heart
of the city’s Via
Condotti shopping
district makes it the
perfect stop for
refueling during a
hectic day of shopping. The street side
tables allow you to check out what
other shoppers are carrying by day
and dine on a quiet street in the
evening. Café Romano is the least formal of the four restaurants featured
here.
Prices: Entrees start at 20 euros, desserts
at 10 euros. Open for late (English) breakfast, lunch and dinner everyday.
Reservations: (39) 06 699-81-500
Hassler Rooftop Restaurant
Prices: Entrees begin at 22 euros; four
courses, excluding wine, runs about 150
euros per person. Open for breakfast, lunch
and dinner daily. Reservations: (39) 06
478-121
Café Romano
When you’ve had one too many plates
of pasta or pieces of pizza, head for the
delightful, quirky Café Romano at the
Hotel d’Inghilterra. The international
menu is refreshingly eclectic and
unlike at other restaurants that try to
do too much, the chef here indeed
seems to have mastered many culinary
traditions of the world. The entrees
include such diverse offerings as
Chicken Tikka, Weiner Schnitzel, Lamb
Rome has more than a few elegant
rooftop restaurants, but the one on the
sixth floor of the Hotel Hassler was the
original, opening in the 1950s. Almost
everything that can be said about
Hassler, the hotel, can
be said about the
rooftop restaurant:
world-class; star-studded; a once-in-a-lifetime
experience; unforgettable.
As with other restaurants, the Hassler’s
menu changes with the seasons, but
some of the perennial favorites include
artichoke salad, pate, baby octupus
“Rome is a city of shadows…But the greatest
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Page 7
Dining
and pumpkin ravioli. Hassler’s inhouse bakery produces fine breads and
elaborate desserts. Liz Taylor is said to
be a fan of the milk chocolate turtles.
Sunday brunch on the Rooftop is a
Roman institution. The selection
includes fruit juices, salmon and cold
cuts, meats sliced to order, omelets, sal-
ads, cakes, elaborate desserts and
fresh fruit. Jacket and tie required.
Prices: A meal runs about 100 euros
per person, without drinks. Brunch is a
fixed price, 55 euros, without drinks.
Open for lunch (or brunch on Sunday)
and dinner daily. Reservations: (39) 06
699-340
Eat & Stay…
The best thing about staying where you want to eat —
preference for a hard-to-get reservation.
HOTEL EDEN
Via Ludovisi 49,
00187 Rome
(800) 543-4300 (in the U.S.)
(39) 06 478-121
www.hotel-eden.it
Prices: Rooms start at
550 euros per night.
This hotel is a favorite of young
Hollywood, including Gwyneth Paltrow.
The décor exudes understated elegance.
The hilltop location ensures stunning
views from almost every spacious
guestroom.
HASSLER VILLA MEDICI
Piazza Trinita dei Monti 6,
00187 Rome,
(39) 06 699-340
www.hotelhasslerroma.com
Prices: 625 euros per night
for a deluxe double room.
The only privately owned five-star hotel
in Rome, the Hassler is one of the
most famous hotels in the world.
Everyone from Madonna to Prince
Ranier has stayed here. It doesn’t
get much better than this.
HOTEL D’INGHILTERRA
Via Bocca di Leone 14,
00187 Rome
(39) 06 69-981
www.charminghotels.it/inghilterra/
CAVALIERI HILTON
Via Cadlolo 101,
00136 Rome
800 445 8667 (from the U.S.)
(39) 06 35091
www.cavalieri-hilton.it/
Prices: Rooms start at
250 euros per night.
Prices: 390 euros per night for a
standard room during the summer.
The Inghilterra is one of Rome’s hottest
hotels right now. The rooms are filled
with antique furniture as well as
modern conveniences. For shopaholics,
the location can’t be beat.
Set in 15 acres of hills above Rome, the
Cavalieri is more resort than hotel. The
amenities include a business center, clay
tennis courts, a swimming pool, fitness
center and jogging paths. There’s a free
shuttle bus for the 15-minute ride to the
center of Rome. Each room has a balcony.
1 euro = $1.04 at press time
La Pergola
La Pergola at the Cavalieri Hilton is
arguably the best restaurant in Rome
and it’s frequently lauded as one of the
best in all of Italy. Interesting then, that
it owes its success to a young German
chef, Heinz Beck.
Everything at La Pergola is of the highest standard. The dinnerware is
Benardau and the glasses are made by
Reidel. The magnificent maitre d’,
Umberto Giraudo, once worked for
Alain Ducasse in Paris. The serving
staff, dressed in black tie, move like a
finely choreographed ballet.
And the food… Michelin has awarded
La Pergola two stars. Does that tell you
anything? Here’s a sampling: tomato
terrine with deep-fried anchovies; marinated mackerel with tomato; guinea
fowl with black olives; fillet of sole
with fine herbs; pigeon breast with
wild strawberries.
True gourmands order the 5- or 7course tasting menu and savor every
single bite. 1,300 wine labels, 12 coffees
and 31 teas complement each course.
Since the Hilton is in the hills above
Rome, the setting and view is as stupendous as the food. This is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, as the price indicates.
Prices: 7-course tasting menu is 130 euros
per person, and 5-course menu is 115
euros, excluding wine. A la carte entrees
start at 30 euros. Open for dinner
Tuesday–Saturday. Closed for 2 weeks in
January and 2 weeks in August.
Reservations: (39) 06 350-92-211 ◆
shadow of all is its Past.” —A.G. MacKinnon
7
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Waking the Giant
y decision to make a pilgrimage to Mount Etna
was rather last minute.
My parents and I were in
Giardini Naxos, Sicily’s first Greek
colony and the last stop on our weeklong Italiatour, “Magnificent Sicily.”
Our guide was taking names — we
could spend the final day of the tour
completely at our leisure, or take an
optional excursion to Mount Etna,
Europe’s highest and most active volcano. The prospect of an unscheduled
day was enticing. But when would I
next find myself so near a volcano? As
it happened, I would be one of the last
souls to tread on Etna’s backside before
she awoke again. The volcano would
erupt just two weeks later, depositing
ash as far as Libya, 400 miles to its
south.
M
8
Getting to the north face of Etna (Etna
nord) was relatively easy. From
Giardini Naxos, we (three Australians
and I) took a bus to Taormina, a popular Mediterranean resort town, where
we picked up additional passengers.
The bus full of Germans, British,
Americans and Australians climbed
tree-lined switchbacks as our polyglot
guide provided facts and history about
Mount Etna.
We stopped in the ski town of
Linguaglossa (translation: “big tongue
of lava”), halfway into the hour’s drive
to where we would ascend the volcano. Our guide pointed out the
streets, the town’s gates and foundations of buildings and houses made of
basalt (lava) in this typical volcano-side
town. There is a true love-hate relationship between the unpredictable Mount
Etna and those who inhabit her slopes.
The lava makes for rich soil, perfect for
growing hazelnuts, grapes, olives,
oranges and lemons. Skiing and
tourism generate substantial revenue.
But all could be lost with one volcanic
cough. Lava flows move slowly, allowing time to pack up portable worldly
possessions. Houses, schools and businesses cannot be moved, of course, and
neither can a sense of place. Mount
Etna does not often take human lives,
however. The Web site boris.vulcanoetna. com states that 77 deaths can be
attributed to her eruptions.
The volcano’s mercurial nature earned
its reputation among Sicilians as a
spoiled child, doing what it wants,
when it wants. Etna is monitored by
120 seismic activity stations and is
under constant satellite surveillance,
and the National Institute of
Geophysics and Volcanology, based in
Catania in eastern Sicily, studies the
behavior patterns of Mount Etna and
other volcanoes. While seismic data
and statistical calculations offer clues, it
is impossible to accurately forecast
Etna’s next move. In the past 350 years,
Etna has erupted about 70 times,
approximately once every five years.
The entire city of Catania was
destroyed in 1669 in a blast that lasted
122 days. There was a major explosion
in 1992, in the summer of 2001 and
most recently at the end of October
2002. (The last eruption continues as of
this writing.)
We disembarked in Piano Provenzana, a
tiny, souvenir-laden skiing outpost
where jeeps were gathered to take curious tourists up the volcano. Waiting
for the next jeep departure, a shop
owner explained that the temperature
would drop with each foot of elevation. I rented a bright orange parka
from him for the surprisingly reasonable price of 2 euros.
After a wild 20-minute ride over undulating terrain, the jeep let us out at the
highest point we could legally go—
9,300 feet elevation. (It is not safe to go
to Etna’s summit at 11,000 feet; as of
December 2002, it is also forbidden.)
The fog was thick and the air a chilly
33 degrees Fahrenheit. Visibility was so
poor that the jeep vanished from sight
just as I made my way up an incline.
Freezing rain had started to fall during
our 4-wheel trek. I pulled my rented
parka tightly around me, grateful for
its warmth and fluorescence.
Patches of yellow lichen (moss-like
plant) were the only signs of life on the
ashen landscape. Large lava chunks
poked through the mist. I joined a
group of passengers walking around
an observatory which was closed to
visitors. After some awkward photo
shoots, we boarded the jeep to view
one of Etna’s craters (not one of the
four live craters at the summit). It
looked like a bowl of dry ice. The fog
had put a damper on things. Our driver attempted to make one more stop,
but the crowd was audibly disappointed and frustrated by the anti-climactic
tour. The driver called it a day and
headed down “the mountain,” as
locals, called Etnei, refer to the volcano.
On the ride back, he gestured to two
jeep drivers ascending the volcano to
turn around.
I returned my parka, looked at lava
souvenirs and enjoyed a cup of the
most amazing hot chocolate I have
ever tasted at La Provenzana restaurant.
I sat discussing the adventure with my
Australian friend. We didn’t get to
view breathtaking vistas or awe-inspiring craters, but we both agreed the
adventure was well worth the 67 euros
we paid. At least we could say we had
walked on a volcano. Two weeks later,
we would realize we were two of the
last tourists to sit in the quaint town
musing about our volcano outing.
Piano Provenzana was decimated by an
“Sicilians build as if they’ll live foreve
dreamITALY103
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Page 9
Visiting the Volcano
Since Etna is still active and
unpredictable, contact the Italian
Embassy (phone: (202) 612-4400,
www.italyemb.org) or Italian
Government Tourist Board (phone:
NY- (212) 245-5618, Chicago- (312)
644-0996 or Los Angeles- (310) 8201898, www.italiantourism.com) for
the latest information.
There are two approaches to Mount
Etna:
NORTH FACE: Via Taormina to
Linguaglossa—ascend by jeep.
and glasses to protect your eyes from
the glare and flying debris.
NEARBY TOWNS:
Giarre-Riposto to Catania. Stops at
towns along the way. The entire
trip takes five hours. Contact
the Italian State Railways,
Ferrovie dello Stato (FS),
for information phone:
(39) 147-888088 or www.fs-on-line.com
SOUTH FACE: Via Catania to
Nicolosi to Rifugio Sapienza—
ascend by cable-car.
BUS: Several bus tour options are
available. The Sicilian Airbus
Travel Group (SAT) offers a good
variety. For information, visit
www.sat-group.it
AROUND THE BASE: See Etna from
all sides on the Circumetnea railway,
which runs along the base from
ON FOOT: It is highly recommended
to go on a guided excursion. Bring
warm clothing, good shoes or boots
earthquake and swallowed by a river
of lava on October 27, 2002. All of the
souvenir shops and ski huts were leveled. La Provenzana restaurant, the only
structure left standing, later collapsed
in a blazing fire.
The late October blast was preceded by
more than 100 earthquakes measuring
3.5 to 3.6 on the Richter Scale. The
intense seismic activity caused fissures
and vents to open on Etna’s southern
flank. Lava flows destroyed tourist
complexes, power lines and parts of ski
resorts in the towns of Rifugio Sapienza
and Nicolosi on Etna’s southern slope.
Ash rained down on Catania, causing
the airport to close and auto and
motorcycle traffic to cease; the layer of
ash created slick road conditions. The
heat of the lava caused forest fires to
break out across the mountain. Watercarrying planes tried to dampen hot
lava flows. Bulldozers and explosives
were used in an attempt to divert
Etna’s far-reaching fury. The people of
Linguaglossa marched through the
streets with a statue of their patron
TAORMINA—Popular seaside resort
with beaches, medieval streets and
myriad curio-filled shops (Hint: All
of the stores sell the same items;
spend time at the beach or people
watch in the piazzas instead.)
GIARDINI NAXOS—Less expensive
than Taormina with better and lesscrowded beaches. Buses run to
Taormina every half—hour.
CATANIA—Sicily’s second largest city
after Palermo, built entirely of lava.
Walk down Via Etnea, visit the openair market and see the Elephant
Fountain, the symbol of the city.
Offers many lodging options.
saint—Sant’Egidio— to stem the lava
flow that loomed just five miles away.
The lava stopped due to cooling
magma, though Linguaglossa townspeople would argue otherwise. It is
believed that the patron saint also rescued the town in 1923.
newspaper La Sicilia reported that
losses from the eruption total over 831
million euros, thus far. The Italian government postponed until the spring
taxes due at the end of 2002 as a way
to offer some economic relief to the
affected areas.
The eruption and its secondary effects
continue today, in early 2003. Lava
emissions have slowed for the time
being, but showers of ash persist, often
causing planes to be re-routed to
Palermo and strangling tourist traffic
into Catania. Foul-smelling sulfur still
lingers in the region. The eruptions
resulted in dozens of injuries and
explosions, many caused by the heat of
the lava and its contact with power
lines.
Back in the States, I read stories about
Etna’s erratic behavior, and cringed at
the devastation she had wrought. I
could not believe I had just walked on
land now covered by a blanket of lava,
driven through forests now charred
and enjoyed hot chocolate in a town
now erased. I thought about the reverential relationship between the Etnei
and the volcano. While I only spent
one afternoon in the presence of this
powerful lady, I felt I understood in
some small way the fleeting nature of
life in Etna’s shadow. ◆
Officials have begun to calculate the
damage caused by Etna’s protracted
episode. Farmers suffered financial
blows — an estimated loss of 140 million euros — and the tourism industry
has been virtually shut down as a
result of the volcano’s wrath. The
—Karina M. Halvorsen
Karina M. Halvorsen is a proud one-quarter Sicilian.
Her mother’s maiden name, Randazzo, is also
the name of a medieval town dangerously
close to Mount Etna’s summit.
er, yet live each day as if it’s their last.”
9
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News, Tips, Deals
S
’
R
TOK
I
D
E IC
The day I received Dario P Dario Castagno tells the other
EDI
PICTOR’S
K
Too Much Tuscan Sun
10
Castagno’s book in the mail
had been a long one. I was
getting sick and wanted to
get some work done before
going to bed early…but I
couldn’t. I thought I would
take a quick peak at Too
Much Tuscan Sun:
Confessions of a Chianti
Tour Guide and leave it for
another day. That was the
plan at least. I stayed up until
nearly 2 a.m. voraciously
reading and laughing myself
into tears. The dog looked at
me like I was nuts, but I was
having too much fun to stop
reading.
side of Frances Mayes’
famous tale, Under the
Tuscan Sun. What’s it really
like to witness an American
invasion of Tuscany each
summer? According to Dario,
sometimes it isn’t too pretty.
All I can say about Dario’s
encounters with Americans
is “God bless him.” He seems
to have the patience of a
saint.
Some of his close encounters: There’s the 25-year-old
trophy bride who treats her
40-something stepson like a
4-year-old and asks Dario to
physically demonstrate the
1 euro = $1.04 at press time
proper use of a bidet. Then
there’s one Mr. Franklin,
whose jogging suit matches
that of his wife, who says,
“Dario, I’m sorry but in Italy
you just don’t know how to
cook Italian food. You get the
best genuine Italian food in
America, so if you don’t
mind, we’d prefer to eat over
there.” The Franklins then
take Dario to McDonald’s.
And of course, who can forget the woman who tells
Dario that she can’t believe
all of the sculptures and
paintings in Italy were created by one family. Perplexed,
Dario asks her what family is
that? “The Circa family,” she
From the Flight Deck
On May 1, American will launch new
daily seasonal service between New
York’s Kennedy Airport and Rome.
The flights, using 767 aircraft, end
October 24.
Flying to multiple cities
in Italy? Getting to the
Continent on United,
Lufthansa, Austrian
Airlines or S.A.S?
Consider buying a Visit Italy
Pass from Air One, which flies to 20
Italian cities. Simply buy one coupon
for each one-way flight you plan to
take. Only the first flight coupon must
be reserved at the same time as your
international ticket is issued; other
flight coupons may be booked any
time. You must buy a minimum of 2
flight coupons ($43 each).
You can get 3 flight
coupons for less than
$39 each and 4 or more
for less than $35 each.
The coupons must be
purchased prior to
departure, as they are not
available in Italy, and can only
be issued in conjunction with a Star
Alliance Partner (United, Lufthansa,
Austrian Airlines or S.A.S) international ticket to Italy. For more information: www.flyairone.it/en
replies, i.e. a painting
labeled, “Circa
1645.”
Although he shares
his most outrageous
adventures with
American tourists,
Dario balances out the book
by detailing some of his most
enjoyable experiences with
American clients turned
friends. He also gives a vivid
picture of the sights, sounds,
history and culture that make
Chianti so unique.
Dario has sold 3,000 copies
of his book through word of
mouth. Although he has a lit-
erary agent in New York City,
he hasn’t had too
much luck. I can’t
believe an
American publisher hasn’t snapped
this book up.
Watch out Frances
Mayes!
If you are interested in getting a copy of Too Much
Tuscan Sun, e-mail Dario at
[email protected] with your
mailing address. You can
also send him a fax at (39)
0577 322-534. He will send
the book via priority mail
along with a bill for $18 per
copy.
ARTS Calendar
MILAN: Napoleone e la Repubblica Italiana 1802-1805
This exhibit of paintings, drawings and sculptures documents the
creation of the first Italian Republic in 1802 by Napoleon, focusing on the
historical, social and cultural transformation of Northern Italy. Now
through February 28, 2003. Tickets: 6.50 euros. Rotonda della Besana,
Via Besana. Closed Monday. For more information: (39) 02 54-55-047.
ROME: Lucia di Lammermoor
Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera presents Gaetano Donizetti’s opera Lucia di
Lammermoor, a tale of tempestuous love and family honor, based on
Sir Walter Scott’s classic novel, The Bride of Lammermoor. Lucia is
one of opera’s most memorable heroines, whose love for her family’s
sworn enemy drives her to madness. Performances will be held
February 21, 22, 23, 25 and 27 and March 1, 2 and 4, 2003. Ticket prices
range from 8 to 119 euros. Teatro dell’Opera, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1.
For more information: (39) 06 481-60; www.operaroma.it
After 56 years in exile, the Italian royal family (the Savoys) ret
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Page 11
and Events G
An Italian Wine Education
Window on Italian Life
While famed historian
Stephen Ambrose passed
away last year, his legacy
lives on in his writing and in
his tour company, Stephen
Ambrose Historical Tours.
The Italian Campaign is a
twelve-day tour led by
Ambrose protégé, author and
former Marine, Capt. Ron
Drez. Drez will take 25-40
participants to the World
War II landing site at Anzio,
war museums and cemeteries. The tour, which takes
place from April 12 –23,
2003, includes stops in
Sorrento and Florence and
participants will spend Easter
in Rome. Judy Appel of
Stephen Ambrose Tours says
there is “enough Italy” in the
tour for those who might not
be quite as World War II-oriented as their traveling companions. This is the 2nd year
the tour has run and guests
will stay in 4-star properties
with most breakfasts and
dinners included. Price:
$3,200 per person, based on
double occupancy, not
including airfare. For more
information: (888) 903-3329;
www.stephenambrosetours.
com
In a country where 97% of the population is
Catholic and probably just as many carry a cell
phone, this was bound to happen sometime.
Italy’s largest mobile phone operator, TIM, is now
offering customers text messages with the prayer
of the day, saint of the day or gospel of the day.
The service costs a few cents for each message.
Mary Ann Esposito, host of
the longest running Italian
cooking show on public television, Ciao Italia, is leading
a 10-day tour of the EmiliaRomagna region with tour
company Caravella Italia.
Mary Ann will conduct three
The International Wine
Academy of Rome is now
open in an historic palazzo
Academy’s restaurant or in the
garden. The sommelier guides
participants through
overlooking the Spanish Steps.
Various classes are held in both
Italian and English, with 2 to 16
students per course. Roberto
Wirth, proprietor and general
manager of the famed
Hotel Hassler, is the
founder and chairman of the Academy.
Steven Spurrier, one of
the world’s most respected
authorities on wine education, has
designed the curriculm.
the meal explaining the art and science of food and wine combinations. Price: 195 euros per person.
`
The half-day
course teaches
beginners about
Italian wine
regions, grape
varieties, tasting
techniques and
how to store and
serve wine. The course includes two
hours of instruction and lunch or
dinner in a private room of the
Coming up in the
March/April issue of
Dream of Italy:
Summer 2003
Events Guide
Noteworthy Travels
The Academy also
offers a three-day
course, which includes
two days of classroom
instruction with students spending the
third day touring
vineyards and wine cellars in
Lazio, Umbria or Tuscany. In addition, a number
of multi-week
intermediate and
advanced classes
are available.
Price: starts at
485 euros per
person.
For more information: (39) 06 699
0878; www.wineacademyroma.com
eturned to Italy for a December visit.
cooking lessons sharing her
favorite regional recipes. She
will join the group in visiting
dairy and wine producers in
the countryside and city
tours of Parma, Modena,
Bologna, Ferrara, and
Ravenna. As with all
Caravella adventures, no
more than 12 participants
can join the May 7 – 17, 2003
tour. Price: $ 3,950 per person, land only. For more
information: (888) 665-2112;
www.caravella.com
Calling all writers! The
Spoleto Writers’ Workshop
enters its ninth year this
summer with two weeks of
writing exercises in the heart
of Umbria. The faculty
includes Rosellen Brown,
James Magnuson, and Marie
Howe, all highly regarded
writers and teachers. The
workshop, intended for
serious writers, focuses on
new practices, methods and
strategies for creating productive prose. This year’s
dates are July 19 – August 1,
2003. In addition to writing
classes, participants can opt
for Italian language classes.
They may also choose to
stay in the 16th century
convent, The Istituto Bambin’
Gesù. Price: $2,400 plus,
for accommodations and
some meals. For more information: (212) 663-4440;
www.spoletoarts.com
1 euro = $1.04 at press time
11
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The Dream Interview:
John Keahey on Venice
ohn Keahey, a veteran newspaper reporter for The Salt Lake Tribune in Salt Lake City,
Utah, spent two months in Venice during early 2000 documenting the city’s growing
struggle with high water. His book, Venice Against the Sea: A City Besieged (Thomas
Dunne Books), was published in 2002. He has been traveling to Italy since 1986, and published his first book in 2000. It is a travel narrative entitled A Sweet and Glorious Land:
Revisiting the Ionian Sea (St. Martin’s Press). That book retraces, 100 years later, the 1898
journey through southern Italy of English Victorian writer George Gissing. Gissing described
his trip in the classic travel narrative, By the Ionian Sea: Notes on a Ramble in Southern
Italy. Keahey is at work on another book about Italy. Dream of Italy spoke to Keahey about
the state of Venice today.
J
DOI: We’ve all heard that Venice is sinking and flooding is increasing. Why?
How?
12
JK: Since the first human habitation of
the lagoon, Venice over the centuries
has been naturally, albeit very slowly,
sinking and sea level has gradually
risen. The early Venetians dealt with it
by demolishing buildings and raising
the foundations. Modern Venetians
don’t do that. Everything is historic
and will not be demolished. The sea
keeps rising because of global warming
and a variety of issues around changing climate.
When the city was first established in
the 9th century, sea level was about six
feet lower than it is today. When the
lagoon was created 6000 years ago, sea
level was about 60 feet lower than it is
today. Another way to illustrate this is
that in 1900, St. Mark’s Square, the lowest point in Venice, was flooded seven
times a year and now it is closer to 100
times. The floods are more frequent
and are higher. Everything has accelerated.
lion to begin building works in preparation for eventually building a gates
project which we refer to as Mose (pronounced Mow-zay). Those preliminary
projects include: reducing the depth of
the middle channel to the lagoon;
building a navigation lock to allow
ships to enter and leave while the gates
are being installed; and building a barrier reef at one of the three entrances
which will deflect storm-driven high
tides away from the entrances. The
gates and complementary projects will
take eight to ten years to build.
DOI: How bad is the flooding during the
winter?
JK: This is the worst time. It does not
happen every day, usually several
times a week. The worst floods usually
coincide with a full- or near-full-moon
tide combining with a low-pressure
system. This low-pressure, or storm,
system pulls sea water into a dome that
then is pushed by sirocco winds up the
Adriatic while, at the same time, the
dome is riding on top of the high tide.
k
k
DOI: What is being done to solve the
problem?
JK: The national government has
authorized an initial outlay of $450 mil-
Flooding usually occurs from October
to April. It is not a reason to stay out of
Venice. Most of the floods are lower
than your knee and your hotels will
give you boots. There are walk-ways
set up and there are dams in front of
buildings. The only crisis is when there
is a really high flood. On November 16,
2002, one came in at 1.47 meters. That
is chest high on a 5’8” person.
DOI: In your book, you write about extensive international efforts to save Venice, but
how do Venetians feel?
JK: They have a saying, “the water
goes up, it goes down, so what’s the
problem?” Venetians have been living
with periodic high water and have
adapted to it. It has become more frequent and it’s irritating. Venetians who
stay have adapted quite well. They are
not sure something needs to be done.
DOI: Are Venetians leaving?
JK: There are 60,000 residents today,
down two-thirds from the 1950s. A few
thousand leave each year. Increasing
high water is one of the lesser reasons.
The city is more and more taken over
by tourism. There were 12 million
tourists last year. The corner markets,
the places where locals went to buy
sustenance are being sold and becoming mask and tourist trinket shops.
Venetians who run the shops leave for
the mainland and commute back in.◆
For more on John Keahey, visit his Web site,
www.johnkeahey.com.
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