Ghana@50 âˆ` celebrating the nation
Transcription
Ghana@50 âˆ` celebrating the nation
Institut für Ethnologie und Afrikastudien Department of Anthropology and African Studies Arbeitspapiere / Working Papers Nr. 83 Carola Lentz & Jan Budniok Ghana@50 – celebrating the nation: An eyewitness account from Accra 2007 The Working Papers are edited by Institut für Ethnologie und Afrikastudien, Johannes Gutenberg-Universität, Forum 6, D-55099 Mainz, Germany. Tel. +49-6131-3923720; Email: [email protected]; http://www.ifeas.uni-mainz.de Geschäftsführende Herausgeberin/ Managing Editor: Eva Spies ([email protected]) ȱ ȱ ȱ Ghana@50ȱ–ȱcelebratingȱtheȱnation:ȱ AnȱeyewitnessȱaccountȱfromȱAccra 1ȱ ȱ CarolaȱLentzȱandȱJanȱBudniokȱ DepartmentȱofȱAnthropologyȱandȱAfricanȱStudiesȱ JohannesȱGutenbergȱUniversity,ȱMainzȱ ȱ ȱ HeadlineȱofȱaȱspecialȱissueȱofȱtheȱDailyȱGraphic,ȱJanuaryȱ18,ȱ2007ȱ ȱ ȱ Onȱ6ȱMarchȱ1957,ȱGhanaȱbecameȱtheȱfirstȱcountryȱinȱSubȬsaharanȱAfricaȱtoȱ achieveȱindependenceȱfromȱitsȱcolonialȱmasters.ȱEverȱsince,ȱIndependenceȱ Dayȱhasȱbeenȱcelebrated,ȱandȱparticularlyȱtheȱdecennialȱcelebrationsȱhaveȱ providedȱ opportunitiesȱ forȱ takingȱ stock,ȱ reflectingȱ onȱ pastȱ achievementsȱ andȱsettingȱoutȱnationalȱaims.ȱButȱallȱGhanaiansȱregardȱ‘Ghana@50’,ȱasȱtheȱ officialȱorthographyȱwouldȱhaveȱit,ȱasȱaȱspecialȱoccasionȱthatȱevokesȱbothȱ prideȱandȱcriticalȱreflection.ȱ‘ChampioningȱAfricanȱexcellence’,ȱtheȱcelebraȬ tion’sȱofficialȱmottoȱprintedȱonȱnumerousȱflags,ȱfestivalȱcloth,ȱtȬshirts,ȱcofȬ feeȱcupsȱandȱtheȱlike,ȱreflectsȱGhana’sȱselfȬconfidenceȱvisȬàȬvisȱotherȱAfriȬ canȱnations.ȱGhanaiansȱareȱproudȱtheirȱcountryȱwasȱonceȱaȱleadingȱadvoȬ cateȱofȱAfricanȱindependenceȱandȱpanȬAfricanism,ȱthatȱitȱcurrentlyȱfiguresȱ prominentlyȱ asȱ oneȱ ofȱ Africa’sȱ fewȱ stableȱ multiȬpartyȱ democraciesȱ andȱ thatȱ itȱ isȱ currentlyȱ playingȱ aȱ pioneeringȱ roleȱ inȱ theȱ Africanȱ peerȱ reviewȱ mechanismȱofȱtheȱNewȱPartnershipȱforȱAfrica’sȱDevelopmentȱ(NPAD)ȱiniȬ 1ȱȱ Weȱ wouldȱ likeȱ toȱ thankȱ theȱ VolkswagenStiftungȱ forȱ theirȱ financialȱ supportȱ ofȱ theȱ researchȱ projectȱ ‘Statesȱ atȱ Work:ȱ Publicȱ Servicesȱ andȱ Civilȱ Servantsȱ inȱ Westȱ Africa:ȱ Educationȱ andȱ Justiceȱ inȱ Benin,ȱ Ghana,ȱ Maliȱ andȱ Niger’ȱ thatȱ madeȱ ourȱ workȱ inȱ Ghanaȱpossible.ȱThanksȱalsoȱgoȱtoȱtheȱHonourableȱAlbanȱBagbin,ȱHonourableȱAkuaȱ SenaȱDansua,ȱDrȱSebastianȱundȱStephenȱBemile,ȱHonourableȱDrȱBenȱKunbuor,ȱAloȬ ysiusȱandȱKafuiȱDenkabe,ȱHerbertȱKongwiehȱandȱallȱotherȱGhanaianȱfriendsȱandȱcolȬ leaguesȱwhoȱassistedȱusȱinȱourȱresearchȱonȱtheȱIndependenceȱDayȱCelebrations.ȱFiȬ nally,ȱthanksȱgoȱtoȱKatjaȱRieckȱforȱherȱcompetentȱservicesȱinȱcopyȱeditingȱtheȱtext.ȱ ȱ 2ȱ ȱ CarolaȱLentzȱandȱJanȱBudniokȱ ȱ tiative.ȱAndȱwhenȱGhana’sȱpresidentȱJ.ȱA.ȱKufuorȱwasȱelectedȱChairmanȱofȱ theȱ Africanȱ Unionȱ inȱ Januaryȱ 2007,ȱ itȱ wasȱ yetȱ anotherȱ tributeȱ toȱ Ghana’sȱ preȬeminentȱstandingȱonȱtheȱcontinent.ȱ ȱ ȱ Publicȱ discussionȱ onȱ Independenceȱ celebrations,ȱ exemplifiedȱ byȱ Ghanaianȱ newspaperȱ headlinesȱ(DailyȱGraphicȱandȱTheȱChronicle).ȱ ȱ CelebratingȱnationalȱeventsȱsuchȱasȱtheȱJubileeȱofȱGhanaianȱindependȬ enceȱ provokesȱ publicȱ discussionȱ regardingȱ theȱ contentȱ andȱ meaningȱ ofȱ nationalȱvalues,ȱsharedȱexperiencesȱandȱsocioȬpoliticalȱunity.ȱTheȱcelebraȬ tionsȱ becomeȱ anȱ importantȱ arenaȱ inȱ whichȱ theȱ stateȱ makesȱ theȱ nationȱ manifestȱinȱtheȱheartsȱandȱmindsȱofȱitsȱcitizens.ȱTheȱentireȱJubileeȱyearȱisȱ markedȱ byȱ manifoldȱ commemorativeȱ eventsȱ sponsoredȱ byȱ theȱ governȬ ment,ȱcivicȱassociations,ȱandȱprivateȱbusinesses.ȱEachȱmonthȱisȱassignedȱaȱ particularȱtheme,ȱrangingȱfromȱ‘Reflections’ȱandȱ‘TowardsȱEmancipation’ȱ toȱ ‘Heroesȱ ofȱ Ghana’,ȱ ‘Africanȱ Unity’,ȱ ’Diaspora’ȱ andȱ ‘Serviceȱ toȱ theȱ NaȬ tion’.ȱ Activitiesȱ includeȱ theȱ theatricalȱ reȬenactmentȱ ofȱ relevantȱ historicalȱ events,ȱ theȱ inaugurationȱ ofȱ newȱ monuments,ȱ theȱ renovationȱ ofȱ theȱ birthȱ placesȱofȱtheȱGhanaianȱ‘fathers’ȱofȱindependence,ȱperformancesȱofȱclassicalȱ andȱ modernȱ Ghanaianȱ plays,ȱ filmȱ presentations,ȱ artȱ exhibitions,ȱ bookȱ launches,ȱfestivalsȱofȱ‘traditional’ȱculture,ȱparades,ȱaȱ‘RallyȱroundȱtheȱFlag’ȱ campaign,ȱ politicalȱ speechesȱ andȱ academicȱ conferences,ȱ aȱ ‘Missȱ GhaȬ na@50’ȱbeautyȱcontest,ȱandȱmuchȱmore. 2ȱ 2ȱȱ Theȱofficialȱprogrammeȱcanȱbeȱeasilyȱaccessedȱviaȱtheȱinternet,ȱatȱtheȱwebȬpageȱofȱtheȱ Ghana@50ȱ secretariat:ȱ www.ghana50gov.gh/ghana50/index.phpȱ (accessedȱ 28ȱ Aug.ȱ 2007).ȱ Manyȱ foreignȱ institutions,ȱ too,ȱ participateȱ inȱ oneȱ wayȱ orȱ anotherȱ inȱ Ghana’sȱ independenceȱcelebrations;ȱforȱtheȱGermanȱcontributionȱtoȱtheȱfestivities,ȱseeȱtheȱJuȬ bileeȱwebȬpageȱorganisedȱbyȱtheȱGermanȱEmbassy,ȱhttp://www.ghana.diplo.de/VerȬ tretung/ghana/en/Startseite.htmlȱ(accessedȱ5ȱSep.ȱ2007).ȱ Ghana@50ȱ ȱ 3ȱ ȱ However,ȱmuchȱasȱtheseȱeventsȱhaveȱsparkedȱpopularȱenthusiasmȱandȱ wereȱ applaudedȱ byȱ theȱ media,ȱ theȱ Jubilee’sȱ organisationȱ hasȱ alsoȱ proȬ vokedȱ heatedȱ debatesȱ overȱ howȱ inclusiveȱ andȱ trulyȱ ‘national’ȱ theȱ officialȱ celebrationsȱ areȱ andȱ howȱ theȱ nation’sȱ fiftiethȱ anniversaryȱ shouldȱ beȱ apȬ propriatelyȱcommemorated.ȱTheȱcontroversiesȱcentreȱonȱthreeȱmainȱissues.ȱ First,ȱ politicalȱ inclusiveness,ȱ whichȱ concerns,ȱ amongȱ otherȱ issues,ȱ theȱ questionȱwhoȱpreciselyȱshouldȱorganise,ȱfinanceȱandȱleadȱtheȱcelebrationsȱ ƺȱaȱgovernmentȱbodyȱ(asȱisȱcurrentlyȱtheȱcase),ȱaȱcommitteeȱcomprisedȱofȱ representativesȱ fromȱ allȱ politicalȱ parties,ȱ orȱ anȱ ‘aȬpolitical’ȱ organisationȱ thatȱincludes,ȱamongȱothers,ȱchiefsȱandȱrepresentativesȱfromȱvariousȱproȬ fessionalȱassociations.ȱTheȱsecondȱpointȱofȱcontentionȱregardsȱtheȱcelebraȬ tions’ȱ socialȱ inclusiveness,ȱ i.e.ȱ theȱ extentȱ toȱ whichȱ theȱ symbols,ȱ performȬ ancesȱ andȱ festivitiesȱ addressȱ theȱ ‘grassȬroots’,ȱ orȱ mostlyȱ theȱ (political)ȱ elite.ȱ Forȱ instance,ȱ inȱ theȱ mediaȱ aȱ debateȱ aroseȱ asȱ toȱ whetherȱ thereȱ wasȱ indeedȱ anythingȱ toȱ celebrateȱ atȱ allȱ and,ȱ moreȱ substantially,ȱ ifȱ theȱ moneyȱ forȱtheȱJubileeȱwouldȱnotȱbeȱbetterȱspentȱinvestingȱinȱsocialȱinfrastructureȱ andȱpovertyȱreduction.ȱFinally,ȱtheȱthirdȱcontroversyȱconcernedȱtheȱethnicȱ andȱregionalȱinclusiveness,ȱi.e.ȱhowȱevenlyȱJubileeȱeventsȱandȱfundsȱwereȱ geographicallyȱ distributedȱ andȱ toȱ whichȱ degreeȱ allȱ regionsȱ andȱ ethnicȱ groupsȱ couldȱ identifyȱ withȱ theȱ festivities’ȱ symbolsȱ andȱ slogans.ȱ Theȱ Ghana@50ȱsecretariatȱtriedȱtoȱ organiseȱeventsȱ thatȱdemonstratedȱnationalȱ unity,ȱor,ȱasȱGhana’sȱfavouriteȱsloganȱhasȱit:ȱ‘unityȱinȱdiversity’.ȱButȱAkanȬ centredȱ symbolsȱ abounded,ȱ atȱ leastȱ inȱ theȱ eyesȱ ofȱ nonȬAkanȱ onlookers.ȱ Theȱ0ȱinȱtheȱGhana@50ȱsign,ȱforȱinstance,ȱisȱclearlyȱstyledȱasȱanȱAkanȱadȬ inkraȱsymbol,ȱsignifyingȱgyeȱnyame,ȱ‘onlyȱGod’;ȱtheȱofficialȱJubileeȱclothȱisȱ basedȱonȱaȱkenteȱdesign;ȱandȱNortherners,ȱwearingȱtheȱsmockȱasȱtheirȱ‘traȬ ditional’ȱdress,ȱfeltȱ slightedȱbyȱtheȱJubileeȱsecretariat’sȱattemptȱtoȱ declareȱ theȱkenteȱclothȱasȱtheȱarticleȱofȱclothingȱconstitutingȱofficialȱ‘Ghanaian’ȱtraȬ ditionalȱ dressȱ thatȱ everybodyȱ wasȱ expectedȱ toȱ sportȱ onȱ Independenceȱ Day.ȱ Moreȱgenerally,ȱcelebrationsȱsuchȱasȱtheȱGoldenȱIndependenceȱJubileeȱ constituteȱdenseȱmomentsȱofȱtheȱsymbolic,ȱritualȱandȱdiscursiveȱconstrucȬ tionȱ ofȱ nationhood.ȱ Theyȱ bothȱ consolidateȱ andȱ atȱ theȱ sameȱ timeȱ redefineȱ theȱnationȱbyȱonȱtheȱoneȱhandȱenhancingȱcitizens’ȱemotionalȱattachmentȱtoȱ it,ȱ andȱ onȱ theȱ otherȱ handȱ byȱ providingȱ anȱ opportunityȱ forȱ vigorousȱ deȬ batesȱregardingȱnationalȱhistory,ȱcurrentȱachievementsȱandȱproblems,ȱandȱ visionsȱforȱtheȱfuture.ȱTheȱcelebrationsȱ–ȱbyȱvirtueȱofȱtheȱwayȱtheyȱareȱorȬ ganisedȱandȱtheȱdebatesȱthisȱprovokesȱƺȱthereforeȱrepresentȱexcellentȱopȬ portunitiesȱforȱresearchȱintoȱtheȱchallengesȱofȱnationȬbuildingȱandȱforȱexȬ aminingȱcompetingȱorȱconsensualȱimagesȱofȱnationhood.ȱ Inȱthisȱpaper,ȱhowever,ȱweȱwillȱnotȱ(yet)ȱengageȱinȱanȱinȬdepthȱanalysisȱȱ ȱ 4ȱ ȱ CarolaȱLentzȱandȱJanȱBudniokȱ ȱ ȱ Goldenȱ Jubileeȱ calendarȬposter,ȱ showingȱ allȱ pastȱ andȱ presentȱ Headsȱ ofȱ Stateȱ andȱ Firstȱ Ladiesȱ ȱ ofȱ theseȱ challengesȱ andȱ ongoingȱ debates,ȱ butȱ ratherȱ presentȱ aȱ firstȬhandȱ accountȱofȱourȱobservationsȱduringȱtheȱfestivitiesȱaroundȱMarchȱ5ȱandȱ6ȱinȱ Accra,ȱ whereȱ weȱ wereȱ privilegedȱ toȱ beȱ admittedȱ toȱ someȱ ofȱ theȱ officialȱ (andȱ unofficial)ȱ celebrations.ȱ Givenȱ thatȱ itȱ wasȱ practicallyȱ impossibleȱ toȱ observeȱ ‘the’ȱ festivitiesȱ inȱ anyȱ trulyȱ comprehensiveȱ way,ȱ weȱ decidedȱ onȱ Ghana@50ȱ ȱ 5ȱ ȱ theȱ followingȱ strategy:ȱ theȱ choiceȱ ofȱ eventsȱ toȱ beȱ observedȱ wasȱ notȱ toȱ beȱ determinedȱbyȱourȱownȱinterestsȱorȱinclinations,ȱnorȱbyȱtheȱserendipityȱofȱ theȱ courseȱ ofȱ events,ȱ butȱ ratherȱ byȱ selectedȱ Ghanaianȱ ‘participantȬ observers’ȱ orȱ ‘informants’ȱ whoseȱ movements,ȱ commentsȱ andȱ encountersȱ weȱ wouldȱfollowȱ asȱ closelyȱ asȱ possibleȱ forȱtheȱ durationȱ ofȱ Independenceȱ Day.ȱInȱorderȱtoȱgainȱaȱmoreȱnuancedȱandȱpluralisedȱperspective,ȱparticuȬ larlyȱgivenȱtheȱpoliticalȱnatureȱofȱtheȱcelebrations,ȱweȱoptedȱtoȱfollowȱoneȱ memberȱofȱtheȱrulingȱNewȱPatrioticȱPartyȱ(NPP)ȱandȱoneȱmemberȱofȱparȬ liamentȱfromȱtheȱopposingȱNationalȱDemocraticȱCongressȱ(NDC).ȱBecauseȱ weȱfeltȱthatȱitȱwouldȱbeȱdifficultȱtoȱexpectȱcompleteȱstrangersȱtoȱacceptȱourȱ companyȱforȱanȱentireȱday,ȱandȱparticularlyȱthisȱveryȱspecialȱday,ȱweȱdeȬ cidedȱtoȱaskȱGhanaianȱfriendsȱandȱadoptedȱfamilyȱwithȱwhomȱoneȱofȱtheȱ authorsȱ (Carolaȱ Lentz)ȱ hadȱ becomeȱ acquaintedȱ duringȱ theȱ manyȱ yearsȱ spentȱconductingȱresearchȱinȱGhana’sȱUpperȱWestȱRegion.ȱWeȱwereȱawareȱ thatȱ thisȱ couldȱ resultȱ inȱ aȱ ‘Northern’ȱ bias,ȱ butȱ givenȱ theȱ debatesȱ onȱ reȬ gionalȱ inclusivityȱ ofȱ theȱ celebrations,ȱ weȱ feltȱ thatȱ thisȱ perspectiveȱ couldȱ proveȱparticularlyȱinteresting.ȱ Inȱ theȱ end,ȱ however,ȱ thingsȱ didȱ notȱ quiteȱ workȱ outȱ theȱ wayȱ weȱ hadȱ planned.ȱThisȱhadȱmuchȱtoȱdoȱwithȱtheȱfactȱthatȱupȱuntilȱnearlyȱlastȱminȬ ute,ȱtheȱNDCȱhadȱnotȱdecidedȱwhetherȱtoȱboycottȱorȱparticipateȱinȱtheȱoffiȬ cialȱcelebrationȱonȱMarchȱ5ȱandȱ6.ȱTheȱoppositionȱhadȱboycottedȱtheȱparȬ liamentaryȱsessionsȱforȱnearlyȱtwoȱweeksȱinȱFebruary,ȱincludingȱtheȱdayȱofȱ theȱPresident’sȱ‘StateȱofȱtheȱNation’ȱaddress,ȱasȱaȱgestureȱofȱsolidarityȱwithȱ DanielȱAbodakpi,ȱanȱNDCȱmemberȱofȱparliamentȱandȱformerȱMinisterȱofȱ Tradeȱwhoȱhadȱbeenȱaccusedȱofȱcorruptionȱandȱwasȱconvictedȱtoȱtenȱyearsȱ inȱprison.ȱTheȱNDCȱcastigatedȱtheȱtrialȱasȱ‘aȱtravestyȱofȱjustice’, 3 ȱandȱitȱwasȱ onlyȱduringȱtheȱfirstȱdaysȱofȱMarchȱthatȱtheȱNDCȱfinallyȱagreedȱtoȱparticiȬ pateȱinȱtheȱGoldenȱJubileeȱParade,ȱafterȱaȱnumberȱofȱreconciliatoryȱmeetȬ ingsȱ whichȱ someȱ elderȱ statesmen,ȱ includingȱ formerȱ Secretaryȱ Generalȱ ofȱ theȱ Unitedȱ Nationsȱ Kofiȱ Annanȱ heldȱ withȱ governmentȱ andȱ oppositionȱ representatives.ȱ Onlyȱ Rawlingsȱ himselfȱ remainedȱ adamantȱ thatȱ heȱ perȬ sonallyȱ wouldȱ notȱ participateȱ becauseȱ theȱ sameȱ incumbentȱ governmentȱ whichȱhadȱunconstitutionallyȱwithdrawnȱtheȱcourtesiesȱthatȱwereȱhisȱdueȱ asȱ formerȱ Headȱ ofȱ Stateȱ nowȱ wantedȱ toȱ inviteȱ himȱ toȱ theȱ celebrationȱ inȱ preciselyȱthatȱcapacity.ȱHeȱfeltȱcompelledȱtoȱaskȱ‘whatȱisȱbeingȱcelebrated?’ȱ andȱdidȱnotȱwantȱtoȱrisk,ȱafterȱallȱthatȱhadȱhappened,ȱanyȱfurtherȱhumiliaȬ tion. 4 ȱ Asȱ aȱ resultȱ ‘our’ȱ NDCȱ parliamentarian,ȱ whoȱ servesȱ asȱ exȬHeadȱ ofȱ State’sȱ solicitorȱ andȱ spokesmanȬofȬsorts,ȱ hadȱ toȱ supportȱ Rawlingsȱ inȱ atȬ 3ȱȱ ‘Reconsiderȱdecisionȱtoȱboycottȱsittings’,ȱDailyȱGraphic,ȱ9ȱFeb.ȱ2007.ȱ 4ȱ PressȱreleaseȱbyȱJerryȱJohnȱRawlingsȱonȱ5ȱMarchȱ2007,ȱpublishedȱonȱtheȱinternetȱat:ȱ http://www.modernghana.com/GhanaHome/NewsArchiveȱ(accessedȱ15ȱSep.ȱ2007).ȱ ȱ CarolaȱLentzȱandȱJanȱBudniokȱ 6ȱ ȱ tendingȱtoȱtheȱnumerousȱvisitorsȱandȱinternationalȱjournalistsȱwhoȱwantedȱ toȱhearȱhisȱviewsȱonȱGhana’sȱanniversaryȱandȱpoliticalȱfuture.ȱInȱthisȱsetȬ tingȱ ourȱ presenceȱ wasȱ notȱ opportune.ȱ Whatȱ weȱ wereȱ ultimatelyȱ ableȱ toȱ followȱwillȱbeȱexplainedȱbelow.ȱButȱitȱisȱinterestingȱtoȱnoteȱhowȱtheȱlimitaȬ tionsȱ toȱ whichȱ ourȱ researchȱ wasȱ subjectȱ inȱ practiceȱ areȱ indicativeȱ ofȱ onȬ goingȱdebates.ȱ ȱ ȱ NewspaperȱheadlinesȱaboutȱNDCȱparticipationȱinȱGhana’sȱanniversaryȱparadeȱ ȱ TheȱGoldenȱJubileeȱSittingȱofȱParliament,ȱ5ȱMarchȱ2007ȱ ForȱtheȱeveningȱofȱMarchȱ5,ȱtheȱJubileeȱsecretariatȱscheduledȱaȱcommemoȬ rativeȱGoldenȱJubileeȱSittingȱofȱParliamentȱthatȱwasȱtoȱreȬenactȱtheȱhistoriȬ calȱ finalȱ sessionȱ ofȱ theȱ colonialȱ Legislativeȱ Assemblyȱ inȱ 1957,ȱ whichȱ theȱ DuchessȱofȱKentȱhadȱgracedȱwithȱherȱpresence,ȱrepresentingȱQueenȱElizaȬ bethȱ II.ȱ Primeȱ Ministerȱ Kwameȱ Nkrumah,ȱ supportedȱ byȱ theȱ Deputyȱ LeaderȱofȱtheȱOppositionȱS.ȱD.ȱDombo,ȱspokeȱaboutȱtheȱbrightȱfutureȱofȱanȱ independentȱGhanaȱandȱthankedȱBritainȱandȱotherȱcountriesȱforȱtheirȱsupȬ portȱ ofȱ theȱ newȱ nation.ȱ Theȱ Speakerȱ ofȱ Parliamentȱ thenȱ readȱ theȱ GoverȬ nor’sȱmessageȱtoȱterminateȱtheȱLegislativeȱAssemblyȱbyȱroyalȱprerogativeȱ andȱannouncedȱthatȱtheȱbodyȱwouldȱreconveneȱasȱtheȱnewlyȱindependentȱ Parliamentȱtheȱnextȱmorning.ȱThisȱwasȱfollowedȱbyȱtheȱdeclarationȱofȱInȬ dependenceȱ atȱ midȬnightȱ byȱ Kwameȱ Nkrumahȱ andȱ hisȱ closeȱ supportersȱ onȱ theȱ Oldȱ Poloȱ Groundsȱ acrossȱ Parliamentȱ House, 5 ȱ theȱ loweringȱ ofȱ theȱ 5ȱȱ Theȱ Oldȱ Poloȱ Groundsȱ housedȱ oneȱ ofȱ theȱ prestigiousȱ Britishȱ sportsȱ clubs,ȱ andȱ Nkrumah’sȱchoiceȱofȱthisȱvenueȱforȱhisȱdeclarationȱwas,ȱofȱcourse,ȱofȱgreatȱsymbolicȱ significance.ȱItȱwasȱhereȱthatȱtheȱRawlingsȱgovernmentȱbuilt,ȱinȱtheȱearlyȱ1990sȱandȱ Ghana@50ȱ ȱ 7ȱ ȱ UnionȱJackȱandȱtheȱraisingȱofȱtheȱnewȱGhanaianȱflag.ȱOnȱtheȱmorningȱofȱ Marchȱ6,ȱinȱtheȱpresenceȱofȱmanyȱforeignȱdignitaries,ȱtheȱDuchessȱofȱKentȱ openedȱ theȱ Firstȱ Sessionȱ ofȱ theȱ Parliamentȱ ofȱ Ghana,ȱ conveyedȱ theȱ Queen’sȱ greetingsȱ toȱ theȱ Governor,ȱ theȱ Speaker,ȱ theȱ membersȱ ofȱ parliaȬ mentȱ andȱ toȱ theȱ peopleȱ ofȱ Ghanaȱ andȱ presentedȱ theȱ Primeȱ Ministerȱ theȱ Ghanaȱ Independenceȱ Actȱ andȱ Ghana’sȱ Constitution.ȱ Theȱ Primeȱ Ministerȱ thenȱmoved,ȱthisȱtimeȱsecondedȱbyȱLeaderȱofȱtheȱOppositionȱK.ȱA.ȱBusia,ȱ toȱ sendȱ anȱ addressȱ toȱ theȱ Queenȱ onȱ behalfȱofȱtheȱHouse,ȱandȱParliamentȱ wasȱ adjournedȱ indefinitely.ȱ Followingȱ theȱ reȬenactmentȱ ofȱ thisȱ sitting,ȱ aȱ grandȱparadeȱandȱotherȱfestivitiesȱwereȱheldȱthroughoutȱAccraȱandȱallȱoȬ verȱtheȱcountry. 6ȱ Historically,ȱthen,ȱParliamentȱalwaysȱplayedȱaȱcentralȱroleȱinȱtheȱindeȬ pendenceȱcelebrations,ȱnotȱleastȱbecauseȱNkrumahȱasȱPrimeȱMinisterȱwasȱ himselfȱ onceȱ Memberȱ ofȱ theȱ Legislativeȱ Assembly.ȱ Underȱ hisȱ regime,ȱ however,ȱtheȱconstitutionȱwasȱchangedȱinȱfavourȱofȱaȱpresidentialȱsystem,ȱ aȱsystemȱthatȱbyȱandȱlargeȱalsoȱcharacterisesȱGhana’sȱcurrentȱgovernmentȱ andȱ thatȱ presentsȱ newȱ challengesȱ forȱ theȱ balanceȱ ofȱ powerȱ betweenȱ theȱ legislativeȱ andȱ executiveȱ branches.ȱ Oneȱ ofȱ theȱ controversiesȱ duringȱ theȱ JubileeȱwasȱhowȱtoȱreȬenactȱtheȱhistoricalȱsessionȱinȱtheȱabsenceȱofȱaȱprimeȱ minister,ȱand,ȱevenȱmoreȱimportantly,ȱhowȱmuchȱdecisionȬmakingȱpowerȱ Parliamentȱwouldȱretainȱoverȱtheȱstagingȱofȱ theȱCommemorativeȱ Sessionȱ whenȱ thisȱ sessionȱ was,ȱ inȱ reality,ȱ largelyȱ plannedȱ byȱ membersȱ ofȱ theȱ exȬ ecutiveȱ(amongȱthem,ȱtheȱJubileeȱsecretariat).ȱThisȱcontroversyȱ–ȱanȱexamȬ pleȱ ofȱ theȱ aboveȱ mentionedȱ debatesȱ regardingȱ politicalȱ inclusivityȱ ƺȱ wasȱ forcefullyȱ broughtȱ homeȱ toȱ usȱ quiteȱ earlyȱ inȱ ourȱ researchȱ whenȱ weȱ atȬ temptedȱtoȱsecureȱourȱadmissionȱtoȱtheȱevent.ȱ Weȱ had,ȱ quiteȱ wellȱ inȱ advanceȱ ofȱ theȱ festivities,ȱ appliedȱ forȱ pressȱ acȬ creditation,ȱwhichȱweȱwereȱfinallyȱgranted.ȱButȱtheȱpressȱIDȱdidȱnotȱautoȬ maticallyȱawardȱaccessȱtoȱtheȱmoreȱrestrictedȱevents,ȱandȱvariousȱnewspaȬ perȱannouncementsȱleftȱnoȱdoubtȱthatȱadmissionȱtoȱtheȱparliamentaryȱsesȬ sionȱwasȱ‘byȱinvitationȱonly’.ȱOurȱparliamentarianȱfriendȱwasȱnotȱawareȱofȱ theseȱ regulations,ȱ andȱ fumedȱ whenȱ headȱ ofȱ Parliamentaryȱ protocolȱ toldȱ himȱthatȱallȱmattersȱofȱprocedureȱandȱsecurityȱhadȱbeenȱtakenȱoverȱbyȱtheȱ ‘Castle’. 7 ȱInȱtheȱend,ȱhowever,ȱafterȱcountlessȱphoneȱcallsȱandȱwithȱassisȬ withȱtheȱhelpȱofȱChineseȱgrants,ȱtheȱKwameȱNkrumahȱMemorialȱParkȱwhichȱhouses,ȱ amongȱ others,ȱ theȱ Nkrumahȱ mausoleum.ȱ Theȱ Parliamentȱ wasȱ relocatedȱ toȱ aȱ newȱ buildingȱatȱsomeȱdistanceȱfromȱtheȱOldȱPoloȱGroundsȱinȱtheȱ1990s.ȱ 6ȱȱ Forȱ moreȱ detailsȱ onȱ theȱ 1957ȱ organisationȱ ofȱ events,ȱ seeȱ e.g.ȱ Ayensuȱ andȱ Darkwaȱ 1999.ȱȱ 7ȱȱ Theȱ officesȱ ofȱ theȱ Presidency,ȱ ViceȬPresidencyȱ andȱ someȱ cabinetȱ ministersȱ areȱ housedȱinȱoneȱofȱtheȱoldȱslaveȱcastlesȱonȱAccra’sȱshore,ȱandȱtheȱtermȱ‘Castle’ȱisȱoftenȱ usedȱasȱaȱnicknameȱ(likeȱ‘WhiteȱHouse’,ȱetc.).ȱ 8ȱ ȱ CarolaȱLentzȱandȱJanȱBudniokȱ ȱ tanceȱfromȱtheȱMinorityȱChiefȱWhip,ȱheȱwasȱableȱtoȱarrangeȱforȱtwoȱinvitaȬ tions,ȱwhichȱhadȱtoȱbeȱpickedȱupȱbeforeȱ4:00ȱpm.ȱ ȱ ȱ InvitationȱforȱtheȱCommemorativeȱSittingȱofȱParliament,ȱ5ȱMarch,ȱ2007ȱ ȱ Havingȱtoȱsetȱoutȱsoȱearly,ȱthisȱleftȱusȱsufficientȱtimeȱtoȱwanderȱaroundȱ theȱ Kwameȱ Nkrumahȱ Memorialȱ Park,ȱ formerlyȱ theȱ Oldȱ Poloȱ Grounds,ȱ beforeȱParliamentȱwentȱintoȱsession.ȱAtȱ4:00ȱpm,ȱaccordingȱtoȱtheȱofficialȱ Jubileeȱ programmeȱ publishedȱ inȱ allȱ theȱ papers,ȱ Davidȱ Dontoh,ȱ aȱ wellȬ knownȱGhanaianȱactor,ȱwasȱtoȱreȬenactȱKwameȱNkrumah’sȱdeclarationȱofȱ Independence.ȱ Weȱ wereȱ ratherȱ puzzledȱ byȱ theȱ ratherȱ ‘unhistorical’ȱ time,ȱ and,ȱinȱfact,ȱdespiteȱtheȱofficialȱprogrammeȱthereȱwasȱnoȱperformanceȱthatȱ afternoon.ȱ Whenȱ weȱ arrivedȱ atȱ theȱ site,ȱ allȱ weȱ couldȱ seeȱ wereȱ numerousȱ helpersȱ busyȱ settingȱ upȱ theȱ benches,ȱ chairs,ȱ podiaȱ andȱ audioȱ equipmentȱ forȱ theȱ galaȱ andȱ rockȱ concertȱ thatȱ evening.ȱ Aȱ Dutchȱ waterȱ engineerȱ exȬ plainedȱthatȱheȱandȱhisȱcrewȱwouldȱprobablyȱnotȱbeȱableȱtoȱfillȱtheȱpoolsȱ andȱfountainsȱatȱtheȱmausoleumȱinȱtime,ȱevenȱthoughȱtheȱwaterȱsupplyȱinȱ severalȱ partsȱ ofȱ theȱ cityȱ hadȱ beenȱ cutȱ severalȱ daysȱ previouslyȱ toȱ ensureȱ sufficientȱwaterȱtoȱfillȱtheȱditchesȱonȱtheȱfestivalȱgroundsȱ–ȱanȱexampleȱofȱ theȱaboveȬmentionedȱtensionsȱbetweenȱtheȱ‘grassȬroots’ȱandȱtheȱeliteȱdurȬ ingȱtheȱJubilee’sȱplanning.ȱȱ Moreȱgenerally,ȱmanyȱofȱpreparationsȱforȱ‘theȱbigȱday’ȱwereȱonlyȱtackȬ ledȱ atȱ theȱ lastȱ minute.ȱ Althoughȱ sprightlyȱ televisionȱ spotsȱ featuringȱ hisȬ toricalȱ filmȱ footageȱ ofȱ theȱ declarationȱ ofȱ Independenceȱ andȱ aȱ speciallyȱ composedȱ songȱ ‘Ghanaȱ isȱ 50!ȱ Ghana!ȱ Congratulations,ȱ Ghana!ȱ Let’sȱ allȱ celebrate...’ȱ hadȱ beenȱ runningȱ regularlyȱ sinceȱ theȱ beginningȱ ofȱ theȱ year,ȱ thereȱ wasȱ notȱ muchȱ furtherȱ evidenceȱ ofȱ theȱ muchȱ toutedȱ festiveȱ atmosȬ phere.ȱTheȱJubileeȱclothȱonlyȱwasȱavailableȱforȱpurchaseȱbeginningȱinȱearlyȱ Ghana@50ȱ ȱ 9ȱ ȱ March,ȱ andȱ itȱ wasȱ onlyȱ thenȱ thatȱ streetȱ hawkersȱ beganȱ toȱ peddleȱ theirȱ flags,ȱcups,ȱtȬshirts,ȱpinsȱandȱotherȱprintedȱgoods.ȱTheȱnationalȱflagsȱliningȱ theȱstreetsȱandȱfestooningȱpublicȱbuildingsȱwereȱputȱupȱonlyȱaȱfewȱhoursȱ beforeȱtheȱarrivalȱofȱtheȱinternationalȱguestsȱofȱhonour.ȱTheȱsameȱappliedȱ toȱGhana’sȱsecondȱbiggestȱcity,ȱKumasi,ȱwhereȱpeopleȱcomplainedȱthatȱtheȱ streetsȱ wereȱ ‘bareȱ andȱ freeȱ ofȱ Ghanaȱ flagsȱ untilȱ Marchȱ 5’. 8 ȱ Theȱ Nationalȱ Disasterȱ Managementȱ Organisationȱ explainedȱ thatȱ officialsȱ andȱ privateȱ personsȱhesitatedȱtoȱhoistȱflagsȱinȱtheȱstreetsȱsinceȱmostȱofȱthemȱwereȱsoonȱ stolen. 9 ȱHowever,ȱforȱtheȱNDCȱthisȱwasȱsimplyȱfurtherȱproofȱthatȱtheȱpeoȬ pleȱreallyȱsawȱnoȱreasonȱtoȱcelebrate.ȱȱ Nevertheless,ȱweȱdidȱwitnessȱaȱdisplayȱofȱsorts,ȱalmostȱhidden,ȱatȱtheȱ Kwameȱ Nkrumahȱ Memorialȱ Park:ȱ Nkrumah’sȱ son,ȱ Drȱ Francisȱ Nkrumah,ȱ accompaniedȱ byȱ hisȱ familyȱ andȱ aȱ smallȱ groupȱ ofȱ journalists,ȱ placedȱ aȱ wreathȱatȱtheȱstatueȱofȱhisȱfather.ȱThatȱthisȱveryȱpersonalȱactȱofȱcommemoȬ rationȱwasȱofȱlittleȱoutsideȱinterestȱandȱthatȱitȱtookȱplaceȱinȱabsenceȱofȱgovȬ ernmentȱofficialsȱseemedȱtoȱconfirmȱtheȱcritiqueȱvoicedȱrepeatedlyȱbyȱtheȱ ‘real’ȱ Nkrumahistsȱ duringȱ theȱ previousȱ weeks,ȱ namelyȱ thatȱ theȱ NPPȬ Government,ȱwhoseȱpoliticalȱrootsȱareȱembeddedȱinȱtheȱformerȱNkrumahȱ oppositionȱ associatedȱ withȱ J.ȱ B.ȱ Danquah,ȱ K.ȱ A.ȱ Busiaȱ andȱ S.ȱ D.ȱ Dombo,ȱ wasȱ onlyȱ halfȬheartedlyȱ payingȱ tributeȱ toȱ theȱ legacyȱ andȱ theȱ personȱ ofȱ KwameȱNkrumah.ȱSoȱwhoȱareȱtheȱ‘heroes’,ȱwhichȱwereȱtoȱbeȱrememberedȱ andȱhonouredȱforȱtheirȱeffortsȱtowardsȱGhana’sȱindependence?ȱAndȱwhoȱ isȱtoȱbeȱregardedȱasȱtheȱlegitimateȱheirȱtoȱtheȱNkrumahȱlegacy?ȱAȱcommonȱ viewȱisȱthatȱitȱcertainlyȱisȱnotȱtheȱNPP.ȱButȱcanȱtheȱNDCȱreallyȱmakeȱthisȱ assertion,ȱ Rawlings’ȱ attemptsȱ toȱ makeȱ itȱ concreteȱ byȱ constructingȱ theȱ NkrumahȱMausoleumȱnotwithstanding?ȱIdeologicalȱclaimsȱtoȱthisȱheritageȱ wereȱinȱanyȱcaseȱmadeȱagainstȱtheȱNPPȱasȱwellȱasȱtheȱNDCȱbyȱtheȱsmallerȱ Nkrumahistȱ partiesȱ(CPP,ȱPNCȱandȱ otherȱ splinterȱ groups).ȱ Theseȱ controȬ versiesȱ constituteȱ theȱ subtextȱ toȱ manyȱ publications,ȱ lectures,ȱ conferencesȱ andȱcommemorativeȱspeeches,ȱandȱitȱwasȱalsoȱquiteȱmanifestȱinȱtheȱalmostȱ privateȱnatureȱofȱNkrumah’sȱson’sȱwreathȬlaying.ȱȱ Theȱdebateȱoverȱwhoȱwereȱtheȱheroesȱofȱindependenceȱtoȱbeȱhonouredȱ involvedȱ notȱ onlyȱ theȱ historicalȱ rivalryȱ betweenȱ theȱ CPPȱ andȱ UPȱ andȱ itsȱ presentȬdayȱ successors,ȱ butȱ alsoȱ theȱ riftȱ betweenȱ theȱ marginalisedȱ Northȱ andȱ Ghana’sȱ politicallyȱ betterȱ representedȱ South.ȱ NorthȬSouthȱ tensionsȱ becameȱapparentȱinȱtheȱfurorȱprovokedȱbyȱtheȱspeechȱofȱtheȱLeaderȱofȱtheȱȱ ȱ 8ȱȱ ‘Ghana@50ȱ–ȱTimeȱtoȱbelieveȱinȱourselves’,ȱDailyȱGraphic,ȱ24ȱMayȱ2007.ȱ 9ȱȱ ‘Ghanaȱflagsȱbeingȱstolen’,ȱ http://www.ghanaweb.com/GhanaHomePage/NewsArchiveȱGeneralȱNewsȱofȱ4ȱ Marchȱ2007ȱ(accessedȱ18ȱSep.ȱ2007).ȱȱ 10ȱ ȱ CarolaȱLentzȱandȱJanȱBudniokȱ ȱ ȱ Drȱ Francisȱ Nkrumahȱ (withȱ Northernȱ smock),ȱ accompaniedȱ byȱ hisȱ family,ȱ placingȱ aȱ wreathȱatȱtheȱstatueȱofȱhisȱfatherȱ(photo:ȱC.ȱLentz)ȱ ȱ Opposition,ȱtheȱlawyerȱAlbanȱBagbinȱfromȱtheȱUpperȱWestȱRegion,ȱatȱtheȱ endȱofȱtheȱhistoricalȱparliamentaryȱsession.ȱForȱreasonsȱwhichȱweȱcannotȱ goȱ intoȱ here,ȱ theȱ NPPȱ isȱ generallyȱ regardedȱ toȱ beȱ anȱ ‘Akanised’ȱ party,ȱ whileȱ theȱ parliamentaryȱ oppositionȱ isȱ predominatedȱ byȱ Northerners.10 ȱ DuringȱtheȱCommemorativeȱSessionȱofȱParliamentȱtheseȱdifferencesȱwereȱ quiteȱ apparent,ȱ particularlyȱ withȱ regardȱ toȱ theȱ dressȱ code:ȱ onȱ theȱ sideȱ ofȱ governmentȱmostȱMPsȱworeȱtheȱcolourfulȱkenteȱcloth,ȱwhileȱonȱtheȱopposiȬ tionȱ sideȱ blueȱ andȱ whiteȱ orȱ blackȱ andȱ whiteȱ stripedȱ smocksȱ orȱ theȱ longȱ boubousȱwornȱbyȱMuslimsȱpredominated.ȱ Theȱeventȱinȱgeneralȱwasȱquiteȱexclusive.ȱBesidesȱtheȱdiplomaticȱcorpsȱ andȱaȱfewȱjournalistsȱweȱwereȱalmostȱtheȱonlyȱwhitesȱadmitted,ȱsinceȱsufȬ ficientȱroomȱwasȱneededȱinȱtheȱrelativelyȱsmallȱpublicȱgalleryȱtoȱseatȱforȬ eignȱdignitaries,ȱselectedȱheadsȱofȱgovernmentȱdepartmentsȱandȱaȱfewȱpoȬ liticalȱ veteransȱ asȱ wellȱ asȱ livingȱ witnessesȱ ofȱ theȱ firstȱ Independenceȱ Day.ȱ SeatedȱonȱtheȱdaisȱtoȱtheȱrightȱofȱPresidentȱKufuor,ȱwasȱtheȱQueenȱofȱEngȬ land’sȱofficialȱrepresentative,ȱtheȱDukeȱofȱKentȱ(oneȱofȱtheȱsonsȱofȱtheȱselfȬ sameȱDuchessȱofȱKentȱwhoȱhadȱaddressedȱtheȱfirstȱsessionȱofȱtheȱGhanaȬ ianȱ Parliamentȱ inȱ 1957)ȱ andȱ theȱ Africanȱ guestȱ ofȱ honour,ȱ theȱ Nigerianȱ Presidentȱ Olusegunȱ Obasanjo.ȱ Toȱ theȱ leftȱ wasȱ seatedȱ theȱ Speakerȱ ofȱ ParȬ liament,ȱ Ebenezerȱ Begyinaȱ SekyiȬHughes,ȱ andȱ theȱ ViceȬPresidentȱ ofȱ Ghana,ȱ Alhajiȱ Aliuȱ Mahama,ȱ asȱ wellȱ asȱ theȱ Presidentȱ ofȱ theȱ PanȬAfricanȱ 10ȱȱ Onȱthisȱcf.ȱNugentȱ1999ȱandȱ2001.ȱȱ Ghana@50ȱ ȱ 11ȱ ȱ Parliament,ȱ Gertrudeȱ Ibengweȱ Mongella.ȱ Afterȱ theȱ speakerȱ openedȱ theȱ session,ȱ shortȱ addressesȱ wereȱ givenȱ byȱ theȱ Presidentȱ ofȱ theȱ PanȬAfricanȱ Parliament,ȱ theȱ Presidentȱ ofȱ Nigeriaȱ ‘onȱ behalfȱ ofȱ colleagueȱ Headsȱ ofȱ State’,ȱbyȱtheȱDukeȱofȱKentȱandȱfinallyȱbyȱPresidentȱKufuor,ȱcongratulatȬ ingȱ theȱ nationȱ onȱ fiftyȱ yearsȱ ofȱ independenceȱ andȱ aȱ relativelyȱ longȱ andȱ stableȱ democraticȱ tradition.ȱ Whenȱ theȱ Majorityȱ Leader,ȱ Felixȱ OwusuȬ Adjapong,ȱ atȱ lastȱ unceremoniouslyȱ movedȱ toȱ adjourn,ȱ Leaderȱ ofȱ theȱ OpȬ positionȱBagbinȱsteppedȱforwardȱtoȱsecondȱtheȱmotionȱandȱusedȱhisȱconȬ trolȱofȱtheȱfloorȱtoȱdeliverȱaȱlongȬwindedȱstatementȱtoȱwhichȱtheȱmajorityȱ partyȱ respondedȱ withȱ muchȱ commotion,ȱ althoughȱ itȱ wasȱ hardȱ toȱ deterȬ mineȱ whetherȱ thisȱ wereȱ inȱ protestȱ orȱ inȱ support.ȱ Bagbinȱ notȱ onlyȱ welȬ comedȱ Busumuruȱ Kofiȱ Annan,ȱ whoseȱ presenceȱ noneȱ ofȱ theȱ previousȱ speakersȱhadȱmentioned,ȱbutȱalsoȱpointedȱoutȱthatȱtheȱmotionȱtoȱprorogateȱ Parliamentȱfiftyȱyearsȱpreviouslyȱwasȱseconded,ȱnotȱbyȱtheȱAsanteȱpolitiȬ cianȱ K.ȱ A.ȱ Busiaȱ whomȱ Presidentȱ Kufuorȱ hadȱ acknowledgedȱ inȱ hisȱ comȬ memorativeȱ speech,ȱ butȱ byȱ S.ȱ D.ȱ Dombo,ȱ aȱ chiefȱ andȱ politicianȱ fromȱ theȱ UpperȱWestȱRegion.ȱMoreover,ȱBagbin,ȱinȱaȱpopulistȱmoveȱthatȱindirectlyȱ accusedȱtheȱNPPȱJubileeȱorganisersȱofȱelitism,ȱthankedȱ‘allȱGhanaiansȱforȱ theirȱpatienceȱandȱmandateȱ forȱ usȱ toȱ beȱ hereȱ toȱ representȱtheirȱ interests’.ȱ TheȱrestȱofȱhisȱstatementȱwasȱdrownedȱoutȱbyȱtheȱNDCȱfaction’sȱtumultuȬ ousȱ applause,ȱ andȱ aȱ numberȱ ofȱ NPPȱ membersȱ wavedȱ theirȱ flagsȱ inȱ bothȱ agreementȱandȱrevelry.ȱItȱisȱalsoȱpossibleȱthatȱtheyȱwereȱgratefulȱtoȱBagbinȱ thatȱ hisȱ statementȱ indirectlyȱ protestedȱ theȱ executive’sȱ coȬoptationȱ ofȱ ParȬ liament.ȱ Asȱ ourȱ parliamentarianȱ friendȱ laterȱ commented,ȱ theȱ executive’sȱ choreographyȱofȱtheȱcommemorativeȱsitting,ȱȱ thatȱweȱwouldȱnotȱbeȱproperlyȱreȬenactingȱtheȱhistoricalȱexperience,ȱ thatȱthereȱwouldȱbeȱnoȱexchangeȱbetweenȱbothȱsidesȱofȱtheȱHouse,ȱ ...ȱthisȱstyle,ȱforȱsomeȱofȱus,ȱcreatesȱaȱlotȱofȱdifficultiesȱforȱtheȱveryȱ parliamentaryȱ independenceȱ thatȱ weȱ want.ȱ Ifȱ anotherȱ armȱ ofȱ govȬ ernmentȱ findsȱ itselfȱ aroundȱ anotherȱ armȱ ofȱ governmentȱ [i.e.ȱ whenȱ theȱexecutiveȱcomesȱtoȱparliament],ȱitȱshouldȱbeȱseenȱplayingȱaȱsecȬ ondȱ fiddle.ȱ Butȱ whatȱ weȱ wereȱ witnessingȱ wasȱ thatȱ theȱ executiveȱ armȱ ofȱ governmentȱ togetherȱ withȱ theirȱ guestsȱ wereȱ takingȱ centreȱ stageȱinȱwhatȱwasȱgoingȱon.ȱ Afterȱtheȱhistoricȱsessionȱourȱfriends,ȱandȱweȱtooȱforȱthatȱmatter,ȱwereȱ tooȱexhaustedȱtoȱbraveȱtheȱhavocȱinȱtheȱstreetsȱthroughȱwhichȱweȱwouldȱ haveȱtoȱbattleȱourȱwayȱinȱorderȱtoȱreachȱKwameȱNkrumahȱMemorialȱPark.ȱ Fromȱ Legonȱ Hillȱ onȱ theȱ universityȱ campusȱ weȱ wereȱ ableȱ toȱ seeȱ theȱ exȬ travagantȱmidnightȱfireworksȱ–ȱsimilarȱdisplaysȱwereȱtoȱtakeȱplaceȱsimulȬ taneouslyȱinȱallȱregionalȱcapitalsȱ–ȱandȱtheȱnextȱdayȱweȱreadȱtheȱnewspaȬ 12ȱ ȱ CarolaȱLentzȱandȱJanȱBudniokȱ ȱ perȱreportsȱaboutȱtheȱreȬenactmentȱofȱtheȱDeclarationȱofȱIndependenceȱinȱ theȱpresenceȱofȱtheȱPresidentȱandȱinternationalȱguests. 11ȱ Ourȱ NDCȱ ‘informant’ȱ toldȱ usȱ thatȱ nightȱ thatȱ heȱ wouldȱ haveȱ toȱ assistȱ Rawlingsȱ theȱ followingȱ dayȱ inȱ meetingsȱ withȱ theȱ formerȱ Headȱ ofȱ State’sȱ foreignȱ friends.ȱ Heȱ recommendedȱ insteadȱ thatȱ oneȱ ofȱ usȱ accompanyȱ theȱ LeaderȱofȱtheȱOpposition,ȱAlbanȱBagbin,ȱwho,ȱalongȱwithȱotherȱmembersȱ ofȱtheȱfaction,ȱwasȱtoȱparticipateȱinȱtheȱGoldenȱJubileeȱParade.ȱ ȱ ȱ CommemorativeȱSittingȱofȱParliament,ȱ5ȱMarchȱ2007ȱ(photo:ȱC.ȱLentz)ȱ Fromȱ leftȱ toȱ right:ȱ Olusegunȱ Obasanjo,ȱ Presidentȱ ofȱ Nigeria;ȱ theȱ Dukeȱ ofȱ Kent;ȱ Johnȱ AgyekumȱKufuor,ȱPresidentȱofȱGhana;ȱEbenezerȱBegyinaȱSekyiȬHughes,ȱSpeakerȱofȱParȬ liament;ȱ Alhajiȱ Aliuȱ Mahama,ȱ ViceȬPresidentȱ ofȱ Ghana;ȱ Gertrudeȱ Ibengweȱ Mongella,ȱ PresidentȱofȱtheȱPanȬAfricanȱParliamentȱ TheȱGoldenȱJubileeȱParade,ȱ6ȱMarchȱ1957:ȱtheȱofficialȱcelebrationȱatȱIndependenceȱ Squareȱ Atȱ7:00ȱamȱIȱ(CarolaȱLentz)ȱmetȱtheȱLeaderȱofȱtheȱOpposition,ȱAlbanȱBagȬ bin,ȱatȱhisȱofficeȱinȱParliament,ȱreadyȱtoȱsetȱoffȱforȱIndependenceȱSquare,ȱ whereȱtheȱJubileeȱParadeȱwasȱtoȱcommenceȱatȱ9:00ȱamȱwithȱtheȱentranceȱofȱ theȱPresidentȱandȱhisȱguestsȱofȱstate.ȱBecauseȱtheȱstreetȱleadingȱfromȱParȬ liamentȱ Houseȱ toȱ Independenceȱ Squareȱ wasȱ alreadyȱ totallyȱ blockedȱ byȱ traffic,ȱBagbin’sȱofficialȱcarȱcouldȱnoȱlongerȱbringȱusȱtoȱtheȱgrandstand,ȱbutȱ hadȱ toȱ leaveȱ usȱ atȱ theȱ edgeȱ ofȱ Independenceȱ Square.ȱ Hisȱ bodyȱ guardȱ 11ȱȱ See,ȱforȱinstance,ȱ‘IndependenceȱDeclarationȱreȬenacted’,ȱDailyȱGraphic,ȱ7ȱMarchȱ2007.ȱ Ghana@50ȱ ȱ 13ȱ ȱ steeredȱ usȱthroughȱ theȱ crowds,ȱ rightȱ acrossȱ theȱ square,ȱ whereȱ thousandsȱ ofȱpeopleȱhadȱbeenȱcampingȱoutȱsinceȱmidnightȱinȱorderȱtoȱsecureȱaȱgoodȱ spot.ȱ Aȱ groupȱ ofȱ NDCȱ supportersȱ seemȱ toȱ haveȱ recognisedȱ Bagbinȱ andȱ cheeredȱ himȱ on.ȱ Otherwise,ȱ itȱ wasȱ quiteȱ clearȱ toȱ Bagbinȱ andȱ otherȱ memȬ bersȱofȱtheȱNDC,ȱwhoȱwereȱtoȱlaterȱcommentȱonȱtheȱevents,ȱthatȱtheȱsupȬ posedlyȱ enthusiasticȱ massesȱ hadȱ notȱ assembledȱ ofȱ theirȱ ownȱ accord.ȱ InȬ stead,ȱduringȱtheȱnight,ȱtheȱJubileeȱSecretariatȱhadȱcartedȱthemȱonȱbussesȱ intoȱtheȱcityȱfromȱtheȱsurroundingȱprovincesȱinȱorderȱtoȱavoidȱtheȱpotenȬ tialȱ fiascoȱ ofȱ halfȬemptyȱ standsȱ thatȱ wouldȱ exposeȱ theȱ government’sȱ unȬ popularityȱ inȱ frontȱ ofȱ itsȱ officialȱ guestsȱ andȱ theȱ press. 12 ȱ Unsurprisingly,ȱ supportersȱofȱtheȱrulingȱpartyȱviewedȱthingsȱdifferently,ȱandȱlaterȱdescripȬ tionsȱofȱtheȱenthusiasticȱmassesȱfilledȱtheȱmedia.ȱBeȱthatȱasȱitȱmay,ȱpoliceȱ andȱ securityȱforcesȱclearlyȱhadȱdifficultyȱ inȱsecuringȱ theȱseatingȱ reservedȱ forȱVIPsȱandȱotherȱofficialȱguests.ȱAtȱtheȱsameȱtimeȱitȱwasȱjustȱasȱundesirȬ ableȱ toȱ haveȱ broadcastȱ roundȱ theȱ worldȱ imagesȱ ofȱ policeȱ andȱ securityȱ forcesȱ beatingȱ citizensȱ withȱ clubs,ȱ whichȱ meantȱ thatȱ manyȱ ofȱ theȱ officialȱ guestsȱ (civilȱ servants,ȱ headsȱ ofȱ departments,ȱ etc.)ȱ wereȱ onlyȱ ableȱ toȱ findȱ seatingȱ withȱ greatȱ difficulty,ȱ theȱ exceptionȱ beingȱ ‘VVIPs’,ȱ whoȱ wereȱ ableȱ toȱpresentȱanȱinvitationȱtoȱsitȱinȱoneȱofȱtheȱlevelsȱofȱtheȱPresidentialȱArchȱatȱ IndependenceȱSquare.ȱ Bagbinȱassumedȱheȱwasȱalsoȱtoȱsitȱwithȱtheȱguestsȱofȱhonour,ȱsinceȱtheȱ highestȱgovernmentȱauthoritiesȱandȱmembersȱofȱParliamentȱ–ȱtheȱSpeakerȱ ofȱ Parliamentȱ andȱ theȱ Majorityȱ Leaderȱ ƺȱ wouldȱ noȱ doubtȱ alsoȱ beȱ sittingȱ thereȱ(whetherȱthisȱwasȱactuallyȱso,ȱIȱwasȱnotȱableȱtoȱverify).ȱHowever,ȱatȱ theȱ bottomȱ ofȱ theȱ stairwellȱ securityȱ guardsȱ andȱ ushersȱ hadȱ beenȱ posted,ȱ andȱtheyȱgrantedȱpermissionȱtoȱgoȱupstairsȱonlyȱtoȱthoseȱableȱtoȱpresentȱanȱȱ invitation.ȱ Butȱ Bagbinȱ didȱ notȱ haveȱ one.ȱ Hisȱ responseȱ ƺȱ ‘Iȱ don’tȱ needȱ anȱ invitation,ȱIȱamȱtheȱLeaderȱofȱtheȱOpposition’ȱ–ȱdidȱnotȱimpressȱtheȱsecuȬ rityȱguards,ȱwhoȱapparentlyȱdidȱnotȱevenȱrecogniseȱhimȱfromȱhisȱpictureȱ onȱtelevision.ȱDidȱtheirȱrecalcitranceȱhaveȱsomethingȱtoȱdoȱwithȱhisȱdisreȬ gardȱ forȱ theȱ government’sȱ stagingȱ instructionsȱ duringȱ theȱ CommemoraȬ tiveȱSittingȱofȱParliamentȱtheȱnightȱbefore?ȱYet,ȱweȱwereȱnotȱtheȱonlyȱonesȱ turnedȱawayȱatȱtheȱentranceȱtoȱtheȱVIPȱsection:ȱtheȱChiefȱImamȱofȱAccra,ȱ severalȱotherȱMembersȱofȱParliamentȱandȱotherȱprominentȱpoliticalȱactorsȱ triedȱ toȱ negotiateȱ entryȱ orȱ protestedȱ loudlyȱ aboutȱ theȱ (lackȱ of)ȱ seatingȱ ȱ 12ȱȱ Thisȱ howeverȱ didȱ notȱ correspondȱ toȱ theȱ officialȱ pressȱ statementsȱlaterȱ madeȱ byȱ theȱ NDC,ȱinȱwhichȱtheȱNDCȱChairman,ȱforȱexample,ȱcriticisedȱtheȱinadequateȱorganisaȬ tionȱ ofȱ events,ȱ butȱ thenȱ wentȱ onȱ toȱ expresslyȱ praiseȱ theȱ ‘impressiveȱ natureȱ ofȱ theȱ largeȱ crowdȱ whichȱ attendedȱ theȱ parade’;ȱ ‘Reactionsȱ toȱ Jubileeȱ celebration’,ȱ Dailyȱ Graphic,ȱ12ȱMarchȱ2007.ȱ 14ȱ ȱ CarolaȱLentzȱandȱJanȱBudniokȱ ȱ ȱ SecurityȱguardȱcontrollingȱinvitationsȱatȱentranceȱtoȱtheȱPresidentialȱArchȱ(photo:ȱC.ȱ Lentz)ȱ ȱ LeaderȱofȱtheȱOpposition,ȱAlbanȱBagbin,ȱafterȱnotȱhavingȱ beenȱgrantedȱadmissionȱtoȱtheȱ‘VVIP’ȱareaȱ(photo:ȱC.ȱLentz)ȱ Ghana@50ȱ ȱ 15ȱ ȱ arrangementsȱandȱfurtherȱshortcomingȱofȱtheȱorganisation.ȱWhyȱhadȱgovȬ ernmentȱentreatedȱtheȱoppositionȱnotȱtoȱboycottȱtheȱfestivitiesȱonlyȱtoȱtreatȱ themȱ nowȱ inȱ suchȱ aȱ discriminatoryȱ manner?ȱ Bagbinȱ remainedȱ calm:ȱ theȱ securityȱguardsȱwereȱonlyȱdoingȱtheirȱjobȱandȱwereȱnotȱresponsibleȱforȱtheȱ organisation.ȱToȱmeȱheȱstatedȱthatȱinȱhisȱeyesȱthisȱwasȱpartȱofȱtheȱgovernȬ ment’sȱstrategyȱtoȱhumiliateȱtheȱoppositionȱparty,ȱandȱthatȱRawlingsȱhadȱ beenȱrightȱnotȱtoȱattendȱtheȱParade.ȱAsȱforȱhimself,ȱheȱwouldȱnotȱtolerateȱ toȱsuchȱpettinessȱorȱtryȱtoȱgainȱaccessȱthroughȱinformalȱchannels.ȱInstead,ȱ heȱwouldȱreturnȱtoȱParliamentȱHouseȱandȱgetȱsomeȱworkȱdone.ȱInȱtheȱeyesȱ ofȱ theȱ NDCȱ criticsȱ withȱ whomȱ Iȱ spokeȱ subsequentlyȱ thisȱ decisionȱ amountedȱtoȱaȱpracticalȱboycott:ȱaccordingȱtoȱthemȱBagbinȱwasȱonlyȱwaitȬ ingȱforȱanȱexcuseȱtoȱaccuseȱtheȱNPPȱofȱhumiliatingȱtheȱNDCȱ–ȱhadȱheȱonlyȱ waitedȱ aȱ fewȱ moreȱ momentsȱ andȱ informedȱ theȱ Directorȱ ofȱ Protocol,ȱ theȱ situationȱwouldȱhaveȱbeenȱredressed.ȱȱ Beȱ thatȱ asȱ itȱ may,ȱ Bagbinȱ phonedȱ hisȱ driverȱ toȱ comeȱ fetchȱ himȱ atȱ theȱ backȱ entranceȱ toȱ theȱ paradeȱ grounds.ȱ Itȱ hadȱ justȱ turnedȱ 8:00ȱ am,ȱ andȱ heȱ hadȱalreadyȱmadeȱoffȱwithoutȱmuchȱaȬdo.ȱThatȱafternoon,ȱasȱanȱalternativeȱ toȱtheȱprotestȱwhichȱhadȱbeenȱprohibited,ȱtheȱCommitteeȱforȱJointȱActionȱ organisedȱaȱconferenceȱatȱaȱHotel,ȱinȱwhichȱmanyȱofȱtheȱNDC’sȱtopȱpolitiȬ ciansȱ wereȱ toȱ participate.ȱ Afterȱ this,ȱ Bagbinȱ wasȱ scheduledȱ toȱ attendȱ aȱ meetingȱwithȱrepresentativesȱofȱtheȱUSȱCongress’sȱBlackȱCaucusȱandȱotherȱ politicalȱ friendsȱ fromȱ abroadȱ atȱ theȱ homeȱ ofȱ theȱ NDCȱ flagȬbearerȱ Attaȱ Mills,ȱaȱmeetingȱtoȱwhichȱIȱwasȱnotȱtoȱbeȱgrantedȱaccess.ȱThus,ȱitȱnoȱlongerȱ madeȱ senseȱ toȱ continueȱ withȱ myȱ researchȱ strategy,ȱ andȱ soȱ Iȱ wanderedȱ alongȱ theȱ stands,ȱ sufficientlyȱ legitimatedȱ byȱ myȱ pressȱ pass,ȱ andȱ likeȱ theȱ pressȱandȱtelevisionȱcrewsȱfollowedȱsubsequentȱeventsȱfromȱthere.ȱȱ Atȱ theȱ entranceȱ toȱ theȱ VVIPȱ areaȱ Iȱ metȱ theȱ Chairmanȱ ofȱ theȱ CPPȱ (theȱ newȱConventionȱPeople’sȱParty),ȱDrȱDelle,ȱanȱoldȱacquaintanceȱfromȱUpȬ perȱWestȱRegion,ȱcomplainingȱstridentlyȱthatȱheȱtooȱhadȱbeenȱbarredȱfromȱ theȱgrandstand:ȱ Governmentȱisȱsayingȱ weȱ areȱnotȱ cooperatingȱwithȱthem,ȱbutȱ howȱ canȱ theyȱ sayȱ this,ȱ andȱ ignoreȱ us!ȱ Weȱ haveȱ workedȱ together...ȱ itȱ seemsȱthatȱtheyȱdon’tȱhaveȱanyȱrespectȱforȱus.ȱ…ȱOneȱofȱtheȱsecurityȱ officersȱ toldȱ me:ȱ ‘Well,ȱ goȱ backȱ comfortablyȱ toȱ yourȱ roomȱ andȱ watchȱtheȱceremonyȱonȱTV’.ȱ…ȱTheȱprotocolȱarrangementȱwasȱnotȱ wellȱdone.ȱBecauseȱwhateverȱtheȱcase,ȱtheyȱshouldȱhaveȱgotȱaȱplaceȱ forȱ theȱ Majorityȱ andȱ theȱ Minorityȱ Leader.ȱ ...ȱ Governmentȱ shouldȱ haveȱstartedȱmakingȱtheȱarrangementsȱthreeȱyearsȱago,ȱ...ȱinȱconsulȬ tationȱ withȱ theȱ politicalȱ parties.ȱ …ȱ Iȱ don’tȱ knowȱ howȱ theyȱ willȱ beȱ ableȱtoȱanswerȱthisȱwhenȱtheyȱgoȱbackȱtoȱParliament,ȱwhenȱtheȱMiȬ norityȱLeaderȱhimselfȱhasȱbeenȱkeptȱout,ȱit’sȱterrible,ȱitȱisȱveryȱemȬ barrassing.ȱ 16ȱ ȱ CarolaȱLentzȱandȱJanȱBudniokȱ ȱ ShortlyȱthereafterȱtheȱMinisterȱofȱStateȱKwadwoȱMpiani,ȱwhoȱwasȱreȬ sponsibleȱ forȱ theȱ festivities,ȱ appeared,ȱ andȱ Drȱ Delleȱ alongȱ withȱ severalȱ otherȱofȱtheȱminister’sȱ‘acquaintances’ȱwereȱhushedȱthroughȱtheȱbackȱenȬ tranceȱ andȱ intoȱ theȱ elevatorȱ thatȱ tookȱ theȱ guestsȱ upȱ toȱ theȱ grandstand.ȱ I,ȱ however,ȱremainedȱbelowȱand,ȱlikeȱtheȱjournalists,ȱwatchedȱtheȱeventsȱatȱ closeȱhand,ȱengagedȱinȱaȱgameȱofȱcatȬandȬmouseȱwithȱtheȱsecurityȱguardsȱ overȱwhoȱgotȱtheȱspotsȱwithȱtheȱbestȱviewȱasȱtheȱGhanaianȱArmedȱForces,ȱ theȱ policeȱ andȱ theȱ fireȱ brigades,ȱ theȱ cadetȱ schoolsȱ andȱ manyȱ othersȱ whoȱ everyȱyearȱmarchȱinȱtheȱIndependenceȱDayȱparadesȱfiledȱin.ȱ ȱ ȱ GoldenȱJubileeȱParade:ȱTheȱFirstȱBatallionȱofȱtheȱScotsȱGuardsȱ(photo:ȱC.ȱLentz)ȱ ȱ Thisȱyear,ȱtheȱbiggestȱroundȱofȱapplauseȱwentȱtoȱtheȱ kiltedȱPipesȱandȱ DrumsȱofȱtheȱFirstȱBatallionȱofȱtheȱScotsȱGuards’,ȱwhichȱtheȱDukeȱofȱKentȱ asȱ theirȱ regimentalȱ colonelȱ hadȱ flownȱ inȱ fromȱ Muenster,ȱ Germany,ȱ asȱ aȱ sortȱofȱgiftȱtoȱhisȱhosts.ȱFollowingȱtheȱentranceȱofȱPresidentȱKufuorȱandȱhisȱ guestsȱ –ȱ onȱ scheduleȱ atȱ 9:00ȱ amȱ –ȱ theȱ nationalȱ pledgeȱ wasȱ recited,ȱ theȱ guardsȱ inspectedȱ andȱ theȱ ‘perpetualȱ flame’ȱ lightedȱ atȱ theȱ Independenceȱ Monument.ȱNumerousȱsplendidlyȱdressedȱchiefsȱfiledȱpastȱtheȱpodiumȱonȱ whichȱtheȱPresidentȱstoodȱandȱofferedȱtheirȱgreetings.ȱWithȱtheȱtraditionalȱ pouringȱofȱlibationȱbyȱsomeȱGaȱeldersȱtoȱinvokeȱtheȱprotectionȱofȱlocalȱdeiȬ tiesȱandȱtheȱrecitationȱofȱMuslimȱandȱChristianȱprayersȱreligiousȱdiversityȱ andȱ‘unityȱinȱdiversity’ȱwereȱenacted,ȱaȱdisplayȱwhichȱisȱanȱintegralȱpartȱofȱ allȱsuchȱeventsȱinȱGhana.ȱAfterwardsȱthereȱwereȱgymnasticȱperformancesȱ byȱ variousȱ groupsȱ ofȱ schoolchildrenȱ whoȱ hadȱ practisedȱ sinceȱ monthsȱ forȱ thisȱ day,ȱ andȱ militaryȱ unitsȱ marchedȱ inȱ variousȱ formations.ȱ Thenȱ cameȱ ‘troopingȱ theȱ colours’ȱ withȱ whichȱ myȱ Ghanaianȱ counterpartsȱ wereȱ quiteȱ familiarȱ andȱ onȱ whichȱ theyȱ commentedȱ knowledgeably.ȱ However,ȱ withȱ theȱheat,ȱtheȱunbelievableȱdinȱandȱtheȱcrowds,ȱIȱregisteredȱlittleȱmoreȱthanȱ aȱwhirlȱofȱvisualȱandȱacousticȱimpressions.ȱ IȱthoughtȱaboutȱhowȱIȱwouldȱbeȱableȱtoȱachieveȱtheȱspecialȱperspectiveȱ withȱwhichȱIȱsetȱoutȱandȱfinallyȱaskedȱaȱpolicemanȱwhereȱtheȱNDCȱfactionȱ wasȱsitting.ȱObliginglyȱheȱnotȱonlyȱledȱmeȱtoȱtheȱappropriateȱsectionȱinȱtheȱ stands,ȱbutȱalsoȱwavedȱoverȱAttaȱMills’ȱspecialȱassistant,ȱwhoȱimmediatelyȱȱ ȱ Ghana@50ȱ ȱ 17ȱ ȱ ȱ GoldenȱJubileeȱParade:ȱgymnasticȱperformancesȱ(photo:ȱC.ȱLentz)ȱ ȱ hadȱ meȱ whiskedȱ throughȱ theȱ barrierȱ andȱ upȱ intoȱ theȱ stands.ȱ Soȱ thereȱ Iȱ was,ȱfaceȱtoȱfaceȱwithȱtheȱNDC’sȱpresidentialȱcandidateȱandȱhisȱassociates.ȱ Iȱ introducedȱ myself,ȱ asȱ farȱ asȱ thisȱ wasȱ possibleȱ givenȱ theȱ noise,ȱ andȱ reȬ portedȱ whatȱ hadȱ happenedȱ toȱ Bagbinȱ thatȱ morning.ȱ Iȱ wasȱ finallyȱ seatedȱ nextȱ toȱ Deputyȱ Minorityȱ Whipȱ Akuaȱ Senaȱ Dansua.ȱ Likeȱ theȱ otherȱ NDCȱ parliamentariansȱ they,ȱ too,ȱ alongȱ withȱ Bagbin,ȱ hadȱ triedȱ toȱ gainȱ entryȱ toȱ theȱgrandstandȱwithoutȱavail.ȱHowever,ȱtheyȱultimatelyȱfoundȱtheirȱownȱ wayȱ toȱ theȱ standȱ whereȱ seatingȱ hadȱ beenȱ reservedȱ forȱ parliamentarians.ȱ Accordingȱ toȱ Akuaȱ Dansua,ȱ evenȱ NPPȱ membersȱ ofȱ parliamentȱ hadȱ notȱ beenȱallowedȱtoȱsitȱinȱtheȱgrandstand,ȱbutȱthisȱshouldȱhaveȱappliedȱonlyȱtoȱ normalȱMPsȱsinceȱ‘it’sȱveryȱwrongȱforȱtheȱMinorityȱLeaderȱtoȱhaveȱtoȱbegȱ forȱaȱplace’.ȱButȱonȱtheȱotherȱhand,ȱsheȱwasȱthrilledȱbyȱtheȱimmenseȱturnȬ outȱandȱcommentedȱintoȱmyȱdictaphone:ȱȱ WeȱwantȱtoȱcelebrateȱGhana’sȱindependence,ȱthatȱisȱwhyȱweȱ[NDCȱ members]ȱareȱhere.ȱWeȱareȱhappyȱaboutȱourȱindependence,ȱweȱareȱ proud!ȱ ...ȱ Theȱ Ghanaiansȱ areȱ allȱ hereȱ despiteȱ theȱ improperȱ wayȱ itȱ wasȱorganised,ȱbutȱweȱareȱhereȱbecauseȱofȱtheȱloveȱforȱourȱnation.ȱ...ȱ It’sȱjustȱwonderfulȱtoȱseeȱGhanaiansȱfromȱallȱwalksȱofȱlife,ȱnoȱmatterȱ theirȱpoliticalȱorganisationȱorȱtheirȱtribeȱorȱreligiousȱaffiliation,ȱcomȬ ingȱ togetherȱ toȱ commemorateȱ thisȱ occasion.ȱ Andȱ Iȱ wishȱ thatȱ we,ȱ thatȱtheȱnation,ȱcouldȱbuildȱonȱtheȱspiritȱofȱtoday.ȱ ȱ ȱ CarolaȱLentzȱandȱJanȱBudniokȱ 18ȱ ȱ ȱ GoldenȱJubileeȱParade:ȱNDCȱmembers’ȱtribuneȱ(photo:ȱC.ȱLentz)ȱ Frontȱrow,ȱfirstȱfromȱright:ȱHon.ȱAkuaȱSenaȱDansua;ȱfifthȱfromȱright:ȱProfȱAttaȱMillsȱ ȱ TheȱenthusiasmȱexpressedȱbyȱAkuaȱDansuaȱandȱNDCȱMPsȱandȱpolitiȬ ciansȱ sittingȱ nearȱ us,ȱ however,ȱ hardlyȱ extendedȱ toȱ theȱ speechesȱ whichȱ wereȱ givenȱ startingȱ fromȱ 12:00ȱ pm.ȱ Theȱ Nigerianȱ presidentȱ inȱ particular,ȱ whomȱ Kufuorȱ addressedȱ asȱ ‘myȱ brother’ȱ andȱ toȱ whomȱ heȱ wouldȱ aȱ fewȱ daysȱ laterȱ awardȱ theȱ nation’sȱ highestȱ honour,ȱ theȱ Orderȱ ofȱ theȱ Starȱ ofȱ Ghana,ȱwasȱsubjectȱtoȱbitingȱcriticism. 13 ȱAȱnumberȱofȱthoseȱwithȱwhomȱIȱ spokeȱ feltȱ heȱ shouldȱ haveȱ beenȱ uninvited,ȱ sinceȱ justȱ theȱ weekȱ beforeȱ theȱ NigerianȱgovernmentȱhadȱexpelledȱseveralȱGhanaiansȱfromȱtheirȱcountry.ȱ Andȱ duringȱ Presidentȱ Kufuor’sȱ longȱ speech,ȱ inȱ whichȱ thisȱ timeȱ heȱ didȱ welcomeȱKofiȱAnnanȱandȱincludedȱaȱfewȱNorthernersȱinȱhisȱcommemoraȬ tionȱofȱheroesȱandȱfoundingȱfathersȱofȱanȱindependentȱGhana,ȱbutȱmostlyȱ praisedȱhisȱgovernment’sȱaccomplishments,ȱtheȱmembersȱofȱtheȱaudienceȱ aroundȱmeȱallȱlistenedȱpolitely,ȱbutȱleftȱtheȱenthusiasticȱwavingȱofȱflagsȱtoȱ theȱ NPPȱ factionȱ sittingȱ inȱ theȱ adjacentȱ section.ȱ Inȱ theȱ stands,ȱ whereȱ theȱ massesȱwereȱseated,ȱtheȱspeechesȱwereȱdrownedȱoutȱanywayȱbyȱMexicanȱ wavesȱandȱconstantȱcheering.ȱAsȱAttaȱMills,ȱwhoȱunderȱtheȱwatchfulȱeyesȱ ofȱaȱteamȱofȱjournalistsȱclapped,ȱ ifȱ ratherȱ reservedly,ȱfollowingȱ theȱ presiȬ dentialȱspeech,ȱexplainedȱtoȱaȱBBCȱreporter:ȱȱ Weȱ areȱ hereȱ toȱ payȱ respectȱ toȱ theȱ peopleȱ whoȱ haveȱ contributedȱ toȱ makeȱ theȱ celebrationȱ possible.ȱ Weȱ areȱ hereȱ toȱ payȱ respectȱ toȱ theȱ childrenȱ whoȱ haveȱ spentȱ monthsȱ rehearsing.ȱ Weȱ areȱ hereȱ alsoȱ toȱ acknowledgeȱtheȱfactȱthatȱforȱnineteenȱyears,ȱoutȱofȱtheȱfiftyȱyears,ȱ someȱ ofȱ myȱ colleaguesȱ andȱ Iȱ wereȱ inȱ chargeȱ ofȱ theȱ stateȱ calledȱȱ ȱ 13ȱȱ Seeȱtheȱreportȱ‘GhanaȱhonoursȱObasanjo’,ȱDailyȱGraphic,ȱ8ȱMarchȱ2007.ȱ Ghana@50ȱ ȱ 19ȱ ȱ ȱ GoldenȱJubileeȱParade:ȱPresidentȱKufuorȱgreetingȱtheȱchiefsȱ(photo:ȱC.ȱLentz)ȱ ȱ ȱ ȱ ȱȱȱȱȱȱȱȱȱȱGoldenȱJubileeȱParade:ȱpressȱ(photo:ȱC.ȱLentz)ȱ 20ȱ ȱ CarolaȱLentzȱandȱJanȱBudniokȱ ȱ ȱ TheȱParamountȱChiefȱofȱNandomȱandȱotherȱchiefsȱwatchingȱtheȱGoldenȱJubileeȱParadeȱ (photo:ȱC.ȱLentz)ȱ Ghana,ȱ andȱ someȱ lostȱ theirȱ livesȱ …ȱ andȱ itȱ isȱ toȱ payȱ respectȱ toȱ allȱ thoseȱwhoȱhaveȱcontributedȱtoȱwhatȱGhanaȱisȱnow.ȱAndȱIȱamȱhereȱ alsoȱasȱaȱGhanaian.ȱWhilstȱweȱcelebrate,ȱitȱisȱalsoȱanȱopportunityȱtoȱ lookȱ atȱ theȱ pastȱ andȱ theȱ futureȱ ofȱ theȱ nation.ȱ ...ȱ Weȱ areȱ hereȱ toȱ reȬ mindȱGhanaians:ȱweȱareȱonlyȱfiftyȱyears,ȱthereȱisȱaȱlongȱroadȱahead.ȱ Andȱ itȱ isȱ notȱ asȱ rosyȱ asȱ peopleȱ wantȱ usȱ toȱ believe.ȱ Butȱ Iȱ thinkȱ weȱ shouldȱremindȱourselvesȱwhereȱweȱhaveȱcomeȱfrom,ȱwhereȱweȱareȱ nowȱ andȱ whatȱ weȱ needȱ toȱ moveȱ forwardȱ asȱ aȱ nation.ȱ ...ȱ Weȱ haveȱ wonȱindependence,ȱbutȱthatȱisȱnotȱall.ȱ...ȱThisȱcountryȱisȱdisunited,ȱitȱ isȱ polarised,ȱ andȱ weȱ doȱ notȱ wantȱ toȱ admitȱ theȱ truth,ȱ weȱ haveȱ corȬ ruption,ȱ weȱ haveȱ allȱ kindsȱ ofȱ problems,ȱ butȱ weȱ areȱ celebratingȱ inȬ dependence,ȱbecauseȱitȱisȱaȱfact.ȱButȱwhereȱdoȱweȱgoȱfromȱhere?ȱWeȱ shouldȱacknowledgeȱourȱjointȱobligation.ȱ Asȱ theȱ officialȱ programmeȱ wasȱ comingȱ toȱ anȱ endȱ withȱ theȱ ‘coloursȱ marchȱoffȱparade’ȱmoreȱandȱmoreȱyoungȱpeopleȱbeganȱgatheringȱinȱfrontȱ ofȱtheȱbarrierȱblockingȱtheȱstandȱwhereȱAttaȱMillsȱandȱtheȱrestȱofȱusȱwereȱ sitting,ȱ andȱ cheeredȱ himȱ on.ȱ Anotherȱ interviewȱ followed,ȱ butȱ wasȱ interȬ ruptedȱ byȱ theȱ singingȱ ofȱ theȱ nationalȱ anthemȱ andȱ theȱ exitȱ ofȱ Presidentȱ Kufuor.ȱNowȱthatȱtheȱeventȱwasȱover,ȱmanyȱofȱtheȱNDCȱandȱNPPȱmemȬ bersȱofȱparliament,ȱwhoȱhadȱbeenȱsittingȱinȱseparateȱsections,ȱgreetedȱeachȱ otherȱquiteȱwarmly,ȱextendingȱwishesȱofȱaȱhappyȱIndependenceȱDay.ȱ‘Thisȱ Ghana@50ȱ ȱ 21ȱ ȱ isȱ likeȱ inȱ Parliament’,ȱ commentedȱ myȱ neighbourȱ Dansua,ȱ ‘weȱ fightȱ eachȱ otherȱfiercelyȱduringȱsittings,ȱbutȱafterwardsȱweȱareȱquiteȱfriendly...’ȱ–ȱlikeȱ theȱ nightȱ beforeȱ itȱ wasȱ apparentȱ thatȱ parliamentariansȱ shareȱ aȱ senseȱ ofȱ communityȱwhichȱtoȱsomeȱdegreeȱreachesȱacrossȱpartyȱboundaries.ȱ Shortlyȱ afterȱ 1:00ȱ pmȱ theȱ audienceȱ andȱ guestsȱ allȱ beganȱ toȱ jostleȱ toȬ wardsȱ theȱ parkingȱlotsȱandȱbusses.ȱ Itȱ wasȱ practicallyȱ impossibleȱ toȱ makeȱ headway,ȱ andȱ Iȱ wasȱ impressedȱ atȱ howȱ Akuaȱ Dansua,ȱ ontoȱ whomȱ Iȱ hadȱ latched,ȱ ploughedȱ throughȱ theȱ massesȱ usingȱ herȱ sharpȱ elbows.ȱ Akuaȱ wantedȱnothingȱmoreȱthanȱtoȱgoȱhome,ȱputȱupȱherȱfeetȱandȱmostȱlikelyȱnotȱ attendȱ theȱ stateȱ banquet,ȱ likeȱ practicallyȱ everyoneȱ elseȱ fromȱ theȱ NDC.ȱ Withȱ herȱ Iȱ droveȱ backȱ toȱ Parliament,ȱ andȱ receivedȱ aȱ phoneȱ callȱ fromȱ myȱ originalȱ‘informant’ȱthatȱheȱwasȱstillȱwithȱRawlingsȱandȱtheȱotherȱ guests,ȱ butȱthatȱweȱmightȱbeȱableȱtoȱmeetȱthatȱevening.ȱ SoȱIȱhadȱsomeȱtimeȱoffȱwhichȱIȱusedȱtoȱvisitȱmyȱGhanaianȱbrotherȱfromȱ UpperȱWestȱandȱhisȱwifeȱwhoȱliveȱnearȱParliamentȱHouse.ȱTheyȱhadȱspentȱ theȱmorningȱatȱanȱIndependenceȱDayȱmassȱinȱChristȱtheȱKing,ȱaȱCatholicȱ church,ȱ andȱ thenȱ watchedȱ theȱ endȱ ofȱ theȱ paradeȱ atȱ homeȱ onȱ television.ȱ Nowȱtheyȱwereȱsittingȱinȱtheirȱgarden,ȱdressedȱinȱtheirȱIndependenceȱJubiȬ leeȱ tȬshirts,ȱ drinkingȱ beer.ȱ Laterȱ thatȱ afternoonȱ theyȱ plannedȱ onȱ drivingȱ aroundȱtheȱcityȱtoȱhaveȱaȱlookȱatȱtheȱvariousȱstreetȱfestivals.ȱTogetherȱweȱ rangȱupȱAlbanȱBagbin,ȱwhoȱknowsȱmyȱbrotherȱquiteȱwell,ȱasȱallȱprominentȱ membersȱ ofȱ theȱ educatedȱ eliteȱ fromȱ Upperȱ Westȱ knowȱ eachȱ other.ȱ AlȬ thoughȱmyȱbrotherȱhadȱonceȱrunȱforȱtheȱNPP,ȱheȱcongratulatedȱBagbinȱonȱ hisȱspeechȱduringȱtheȱCommemorativeȱSittingȱofȱParliamentȱtheȱnightȱbeȬ fore,ȱsinceȱregionalȱaffiliationȱisȱoftenȱmoreȱimportantȱthanȱpartyȱmemberȬ ship.ȱ Theȱ twoȱ ofȱ themȱ thenȱ jokedȱ aboutȱ theȱ eventsȱ thatȱ morningȱ andȱ wishedȱeachȱotherȱaȱhappyȱIndependenceȱDay.ȱȱ ȱ TheȱGoldenȱJubileeȱParade,ȱ6ȱMarchȱ2007:ȱcelebratingȱGhanaȱ‘unofficially’ȱ Aroundȱ9:00ȱam,ȱmyȱ(JanȱBudniok’s)ȱfriendȱarrivedȱatȱourȱmeetingȱpoint,ȱaȱ barȱ inȱ Labone,ȱ accompaniedȱ byȱ hisȱ childrenȱ Edwinȱ (eleven)ȱ andȱ Katrinaȱ (eight)ȱ ƺȱ allȱ ofȱ usȱ wereȱ dressedȱ inȱ theȱ Northernȱ regionalȱ costume,ȱ theȱ smock.ȱ Iȱ hadȱ notȱ knownȱ inȱ advanceȱ thatȱ thisȱ wouldȱ beȱ aȱ familyȱ outing.ȱ Theȱ dayȱ thereforeȱ promisedȱ toȱ beȱ lessȱ politicallyȱ chargedȱ thanȱ Iȱ hadȱ hoped,ȱ althoughȱ myȱ friend’sȱ frequentȱ phoneȱ conversationsȱ withȱ politiȬ cians,ȱwouldȬbeȱpoliticiansȱandȱrelativesȱdidȱprovideȱsomeȱinsightȱintoȱhisȱ politicalȱ involvementȱ andȱ gaveȱ briefȱ impressionsȱ ofȱ theȱ courseȱ ofȱ festiviȬ tiesȱinȱvariousȱregionsȱaroundȱGhana.ȱButȱasȱitȱturnedȱout,ȱcelebratingȱInȬ dependenceȱDayȱasȱprobablyȱthousandsȱofȱotherȱGhanaiansȱwereȱƺȱgoingȱ onȱfamilyȱoutings,ȱvisitingȱbars,ȱwatchingȱeventsȱonȱtelevisionȱorȱlisteningȱ toȱ theȱ radioȱ –ȱ wasȱ quiteȱ enlightening.ȱ Particularlyȱ interestingȱ wereȱ theȱ 22ȱ ȱ CarolaȱLentzȱandȱJanȱBudniokȱ ȱ commentaryȱ andȱ discussionsȱ amongstȱ friendsȱ andȱ strangersȱ andȱ theȱ netȬ worksȱwhichȱwereȱmobilisedȱinȱtheȱexchangeȱofȱcongratulationsȱandȱnews.ȱ Myȱfriendȱincidentallyȱtoldȱmeȱthatȱheȱhadȱactuallyȱthoughtȱaboutȱleavingȱ Accraȱ toȱ celebrateȱ Independenceȱ Dayȱ inȱ hisȱ homeȱ region.ȱ Myȱ requestȱ toȱ ‘shadow’ȱhimȱduringȱtheȱfestivitiesȱseemsȱtoȱhaveȱinfluencedȱhisȱfinalȱdeȬ cisionȱtoȱstayȱinȱAccra.ȱ Itȱ wasȱ Edwin,ȱ myȱ friend’sȱ son,ȱ whoȱ insistedȱ onȱ ourȱ firstȱ destination:ȱ Independenceȱ Squareȱ andȱ theȱ Goldenȱ Jubileeȱ Parade.ȱ Approximatelyȱ threeȬhundredȱmetersȱfromȱtheȱsquare,ȱhundredsȱofȱpeopleȱwereȱflockingȱ throughȱ theȱ streetsȱ towardsȱ Independenceȱ Arch,ȱ wavingȱ Ghanaianȱ flags,ȱ flashilyȱdressedȱinȱGhana@50ȱtȬshirtsȱandȱcaps.ȱTheȱsmallȱcarȱparkȱinȱfrontȱ ofȱOsuȱcemeteryȱwasȱtheȱnearestȱparkingȱavailable.ȱMyȱfriendȱpushedȱhisȱ wayȱ ahead,ȱ holdingȱ hisȱ kidsȱ tightlyȱ byȱ hisȱ side.ȱ Behindȱ Independenceȱ Arch,ȱ weȱ foundȱ ourselvesȱ surroundedȱ byȱ aȱ seeminglyȱ impenetrableȱ crowd.ȱYetȱourȱattemptsȱtoȱreachȱtheȱedgeȱofȱtheȱcrowdȱtoȱcatchȱaȱglimpseȱ ofȱtheȱparadeȱwereȱconstantlyȱfrustrated.ȱButȱwhatȱweȱcouldȱseeȱwasȱthatȱ theȱ platformsȱ surroundingȱ theȱ squareȱ crampedȱ withȱ revellersȱ allȱ deckedȱ outȱ inȱ someȱ formȱ ofȱ theȱ Ghanaianȱ flag:ȱ someȱ simplyȱ wavingȱ smallȱ flags,ȱ othersȱdrapedȱinȱlargeȱversionsȱofȱitȱandȱyetȱothersȱalmostȱcompletelyȱboȬ dyȬpaintedȱinȱtheȱcolours.ȱ Whileȱweȱtriedȱtoȱgetȱtoȱtheȱleftȱsideȱofȱtheȱsquareȱandȱtoȱavoidȱbeingȱ crushedȱbyȱtheȱbuoyantȱmasses,ȱaȱsuddenȱrushȱsurgedȱthroughȱtheȱcrowd,ȱ forcingȱ someȱ oneȱ hundredȱ peopleȱ intoȱ theȱ gutter.ȱ Toȱ theȱ leftȱ weȱ noticedȱ thatȱ notȱ onlyȱ wereȱ theȱ standsȱ filledȱ withȱ twiceȱ asȱ manyȱ peopleȱ asȱ thereȱ wereȱ seats,ȱ butȱ thatȱ theȱ spaceȱ inȱ betweenȱ wasȱ alsoȱ packedȱ withȱ crowds.ȱ Weȱwereȱtoldȱthatȱtheȱhappyȱfewȱtensȱofȱthousandsȱwhoȱhadȱmanagedȱtoȱ snatchȱ seatingȱ inȱ theȱ standsȱ hadȱ doneȱ soȱ inȱ theȱ earlyȱ morningȱ hours.ȱ FiȬ nally,ȱweȱheadedȱtowardsȱtheȱbackȱofȱtheȱsquare,ȱwalkingȱbehindȱtheȱstallsȱ whereȱ kebabȱ andȱ otherȱ dishesȱ wereȱ preparedȱ onȱ grillsȱ andȱ freshȱ waterȱ sold.ȱAtȱ10:30ȱamȱweȱreachedȱtheȱbackȱofȱtheȱsquareȱandȱspottedȱtheȱpressȱ boxȱsurroundedȱbyȱpeopleȱstrugglingȱtoȱgetȱnearerȱtoȱtheȱbarrierȱtoȱcatchȱaȱ glimpseȱofȱtheȱparade.ȱSinceȱIȱhadȱbeenȱgivenȱaȱpressȱpass,ȱIȱtriedȱtoȱenterȱ withȱtheȱchildren,ȱbutȱsecurityȱwouldȱnotȱletȱthemȱinȱwithoutȱaȱpass.ȱHavȬ ingȱenteredȱtheȱpressȱboxȱalone,ȱIȱhadȱaȱgoodȱlookȱatȱtheȱparadeȱandȱtookȱaȱ fewȱ pictures,ȱ butȱ soonȱ rejoinedȱ myȱ friend.ȱ Weȱ walkedȱ alongȱ theȱ backȱ ofȱ theȱ square,ȱ justȱ behindȱ theȱ Presidentialȱ Arch,ȱ whereȱ weȱ metȱ theȱ NPPȱ memberȱ responsibleȱ forȱ youthȱ activitiesȱ inȱ theȱ Accraȱ Regionȱ dressedȱ inȱ jeansȱandȱaȱGhana@50ȱtȬshirt.ȱWeȱshookȱhandsȱandȱexchangedȱcongratulaȬ tionsȱforȱsuchȱaȱsplendidȱday.ȱTheȱbackȱwasȱlessȱdenselyȱpackedȱthanȱtheȱ frontȱofȱtheȱsquare.ȱMyȱfriendȱandȱIȱeachȱcarriedȱaȱchildȱonȱourȱshoulders.ȱ AfterȱhavingȱspentȱtheȱlastȱoneȬandȬaȬhalfȱhoursȱtryingȱtoȱcatchȱaȱglimpseȱ ofȱ theȱ parade,ȱ likeȱ ninetyȱ percentȱ ofȱ ourȱ fellowȱ spectators,ȱ weȱ finallyȱȱ ȱ Ghana@50ȱ ȱ 23ȱ ȱ ȱ BodyȬpainted,ȱcelebratingȱmenȱ(photo:ȱC.ȱLentz)ȱ ȱ spottedȱtheȱsoldiersȱmarchingȱpast.ȱMyȱfriendȱtookȱaȱ coupleȱofȱphotosȱofȱ theȱchildren,ȱandȱfromȱourȱnewȱpositionȱweȱhadȱaȱclearȱviewȱofȱtheȱPresiȬ dentialȱArch,ȱwhereȱseveralȱAfricanȱpresidentsȱandȱotherȱdignitariesȱwereȱ seatedȱinȱtheȱgrandstandȱhighȱaboveȱtheȱcrowd.ȱMyȱfriendȱtriedȱtoȱexplainȱ toȱmeȱtheȱwho’sȬwhoȱamongstȱtheȱPresidentȱandȱhisȱcohorts.ȱȱ Weȱ leftȱ theȱ arch,ȱ movingȱ towardsȱ theȱ gateȱ betweenȱ Independenceȱ Squareȱandȱtheȱbeach,ȱalongȱwhichȱthereȱareȱwatchȱtowersȱandȱwhichȱonȱ 24ȱ ȱ CarolaȱLentzȱandȱJanȱBudniokȱ ȱ thisȱ specialȱ dayȱ wasȱ protectedȱ byȱ armedȱ soldiersȱ andȱ tanks.ȱ Someȱ tenȱ thousandȱpeopleȱhadȱcomeȱtoȱtheȱbeach,ȱonlyȱaȱfewȱhundredȱmetresȱfromȱ theȱparade,ȱperhapsȱbecauseȱtheyȱwereȱunableȱtoȱseeȱit.ȱInȱtheȱdistance,ȱtheȱ navyȱwasȱpatrollingȱtheȱcoast,ȱandȱonȱhundredsȱofȱcartsȱvendorsȱwereȱsellȬ ingȱfood.ȱFinally,ȱweȱboughtȱsomeȱGhana@50ȱbadges.ȱAtȱ11:00ȱamȱweȱwereȱ onȱourȱwayȱbackȱtoȱIndependenceȱArch.ȱFromȱafarȱweȱcouldȱhearȱscatteredȱ bitsȱofȱtheȱpresidentialȱspeechȱwhileȱweȱwalkedȱalongȱtheȱsafetyȱwall,ȱoverȱ aȱgutterȱandȱbackȱtoȱtheȱstreet.ȱInȱfrontȱofȱtheȱconstructionȱsiteȱofȱtheȱnewȱ footballȱstadiumȱweȱranȱintoȱImorou,ȱaȱfilmmaker,ȱhappilyȱgivingȱmoneyȱ awayȱ toȱ someȱ children.ȱ Meanwhile,ȱ theȱ Ghanaianȱ airȱ forceȱ flewȱ overȱ theȱ square,ȱtheȱjetsȱmakingȱaȱgreatȱimpressionȱonȱtheȱcheerfulȱcrowdȱasȱtheyȱ skyȬpaintedȱ stripesȱ inȱ theȱ nationalȱ colours.ȱ Iȱ wasȱ complimentedȱ onȱ myȱ smockȱwhichȱIȱinwardlyȱcursedȱasȱIȱwasȱsweating.ȱWeȱthreadedȱourȱwayȱ throughȱtheȱcrowdedȱstreetȱcarnivalȱpepperedȱwithȱvendorsȱsellingȱIndeȬ pendenceȬDayȱparaphernaliaȱandȱsouvenirs,ȱfoodȱandȱdrinks.ȱAroundȱInȬ dependenceȱ Arch,ȱ peopleȱ hostedȱ theirȱ ownȱ spectacle,ȱ aȱ hundredȱ metresȱ awayȱ fromȱ theȱ officialȱ parade,ȱ someȱ inȱ fancyȱ ‘patriotic’ȱ outfits,ȱ othersȱ dressedȱasȱdevils,ȱandȱmanyȱwereȱdancing,ȱradiantȱwithȱjoy.ȱOnceȱagain,ȱIȱ hoistedȱEdwinȱonȱmyȱshouldersȱsoȱheȱcouldȱproperlyȱseeȱtheȱbrassȱbands,ȱ clownsȱonȱstilts,ȱdecoratedȱhorses,ȱandȱsalutingȱcannons.ȱSomeȱspectatorsȱ climbedȱtreesȱtoȱgetȱaȱbetterȱviewȱofȱtheȱcolourfulȱgoingsȬon,ȱothersȱposiȬ tionedȱthemselvesȱonȱtopȱofȱnearbyȱministerialȱbuildings,ȱandȱevenȱtheȱtopȱ ofȱIndependenceȱArchȱwasȱpackedȱwithȱpeople.ȱ Finally,ȱafterȱIȱtookȱpicturesȱofȱmyȱfriendȱandȱtheȱdelightedȱkidsȱposingȱ inȱfrontȱofȱtheȱnowȱcolourfulȱIndependenceȱArch,ȱweȱwentȱbackȱtoȱtheȱcarȱ andȱleftȱOsuȱcemeteryȱaroundȱnoon.ȱWhileȱdrivingȱweȱdiscussedȱourȱfirstȱ impressionsȱofȱtheȱJubileeȱParade.ȱTheȱconversationȱturnedȱquicklyȱtoȱtheȱ President’sȱdress,ȱaȱmatterȱextensivelyȱ discussedȱinȱ theȱ pressȱ bothȱbeforeȱ andȱafterȱtheȱparade.ȱMyȱfriendȱsidedȱwithȱtheȱPresidentȱwhoȱhadȱarguedȱ hisȱsuitȱwasȱaȱfittingȱsymbolȱforȱaȱmodernȱGhanaȱandȱthatȱonȱsimilarȱoccaȬ sionsȱtheȱheadsȱofȱstateȱofȱnationsȱlikeȱChinaȱorȱJapanȱwouldȱalsoȱchooseȱ toȱwearȱ‘modernȱsuits’.ȱHowever,ȱtheȱappropriateȱdressȱcodeȱwasȱcontroȬ versialȱforȱfurtherȱreasons:ȱmanyȱpeopleȱhadȱnotedȱthatȱȱtheȱtelevisionȱspotȱ whichȱhadȱbeenȱrunningȱsinceȱtheȱbeginningȱofȱtheȱyearȱinȱorderȱtoȱrallyȱ GhanaianȱspiritsȱforȱtheȱcelebrationȱclearlyȱshowedȱNkrumahȱandȱhisȱcloseȱ associatesȱdeclaringȱindependenceȱatȱtheȱOldȱPoloȱGroundsȱcladȱinȱNorthȬ ernȱsmocksȱ(onlyȱtheȱnextȱday,ȱduringȱtheȱfirstȱsessionȱofȱtheȱindependentȱ Parliament,ȱdidȱNkrumahȱandȱhisȱcabinetȱsportȱkenteȱcloth,ȱthusȱcarefullyȱ balancingȱregionalȱidentifications).ȱMyȱfriendȱthenȱalsoȱcomplainedȱaboutȱ theȱ miraculousȱ reȬclothingȱ ofȱ theȱ Nkrumahȱ statue.ȱ Whenȱ theȱ monumentȱ stoodȱ inȱ frontȱ ofȱ theȱ oldȱ Parliamentȱ House,ȱ itȱ showedȱ Nkrumahȱ inȱ aȱ smock.ȱButȱafterȱtheȱstatueȱhadȱtoȱundergoȱrepairȱfollowingȱtheȱbreakingȱ offȱofȱoneȱofȱitsȱarmsȱduringȱitsȱrelocationȱtoȱKwameȱNkrumahȱMemorialȱ Ghana@50ȱ ȱ 25ȱ ȱ Parkȱinȱ1992,ȱNkrumahȱreȬappearedȱdressedȱinȱkenteȱcloth.ȱButȱatȱleastȱheȱ woreȱ ‘Ghanaianȱ costume’.ȱ Inȱ contrast,ȱ Presidentȱ Kufuor’sȱ choiceȱ ofȱ theȱ suitȱforȱtheȱJubileeȱParadeȱattractedȱmuchȱscathingȱcriticism.ȱAlthoughȱhisȱ predecessorȱRawlingsȱdidȱchooseȱtoȱwearȱGhanaianȱcostume,ȱheȱwasȱalsoȱ criticisedȱforȱhisȱinabilityȱtoȱwearȱtheȱAkanȱclothȱinȱtheȱtraditionalȱmannerȱ withȱtheȱrequiredȱdignity.ȱButȱnowȱinȱretrospect,ȱheȱisȱpraisedȱforȱhisȱprefȬ erenceȱforȱGhanaianȱclothing,ȱandȱhisȱversatilityȱinȱalternatingȱbetweenȱtheȱ Northernȱ smock,ȱ theȱ Muslimȱ boubou,ȱ theȱ kenteȱ cloth,ȱ etc.ȱ Kufuor,ȱ oftenȱ seenȱinȱaȱWesternȱsuit,ȱcomparesȱpoorlyȱinȱthisȱregard.ȱ Duringȱ theȱ ComȬ memorativeȱ Parliamentaryȱ Sitting,ȱ Kufuorȱ didȱ wearȱ aȱ lightȬblueȱ boubou,ȱ butȱobserversȱcriticisedȱitȱasȱbeingȱinappropriatelyȱsimpleȱforȱtheȱoccasion.ȱ Onȱtheȱotherȱhand,ȱatȱleastȱitȱwasȱ‘Ghanaian’,ȱunlikeȱtheȱsuitsȱheȱandȱsomeȱ ofȱhisȱcabinetȱministersȱworeȱonȱMarchȱ6,ȱaȱchoiceȱwhichȱmanyȱregardedȱ toȱbeȱaȱ‘shame’ȱtoȱtheȱnation.ȱKufuorȱhimselfȱarguedȱtheȱsuitȱwasȱapproȬ priateȱ toȱ receiveȱ stateȱ guestsȱ andȱ wasȱ simplyȱ moreȱ comfortableȱ thanȱ theȱ cumbersomeȱ cloth.ȱ Theȱ presidentialȱ Jubileeȱ dressȱ codeȱ hasȱ occasionedȱ soȱ muchȱdebateȱ(alsoȱinȱblogsȱandȱfeatureȱarticlesȱonȱtheȱinternet)ȱthatȱsomeȱ criticsȱhaveȱaskedȱwhetherȱthisȱtopicȱreallyȱwarrantsȱsoȱmuchȱdiscussion,ȱ whetherȱthereȱisȱanythingȱreallyȱuniquelyȱ‘Ghanaian’ȱaboutȱtheȱkente,ȱandȱ whyȱtheȱPresidentȱshouldȱbeȱcriticisedȱforȱwearingȱWesternȱclothesȱwhenȱ ordinaryȱGhanaiansȱhaveȱnoȱqualmsȱaboutȱdrivingȱfancyȱWesternȱcarsȱorȱ puttingȱpermanentsȱinȱtheirȱhair.ȱHowever,ȱtheȱmatterȱisȱanythingȱbutȱtrivȬ ial:ȱ theȱ questionȱ ofȱ appropriateȱ clothingȱ hasȱ attractedȱ soȱ muchȱ attentionȱ becauseȱitȱhasȱbecomeȱanȱidiomȱinȱwhichȱtheȱroleȱ‘tradition’ȱandȱregionalȱ identityȱinȱtheȱmodernȱnationȱisȱdebated.ȱ Atȱ 12:30ȱ pmȱ weȱ returnedȱ toȱ theȱ veryȱ barȱ fromȱ whereȱ weȱ hadȱ setȱ outȱ thatȱmorning.ȱTheȱbarkeeperȱwasȱstillȱlisteningȱtoȱtheȱliveȱcoverageȱofȱtheȱ celebrationsȱonȱtheȱradio.ȱBarelyȱfifteenȱminutesȱlaterȱweȱwereȱservedȱourȱ secondȱbottleȱofȱbeerȱandȱexaminedȱtheȱphotosȱweȱhadȱtakenȱatȱIndependȬ enceȱ Square.ȱ Meanwhile,ȱ myȱ friendȱ telephonedȱ withȱ colleagues,ȱ politiȬ cians,ȱfriendsȱandȱkin.ȱHeȱhadȱmissedȱseveralȱcallsȱwhileȱweȱwereȱwalkingȱ aroundȱtheȱSquare,ȱandȱevenȱmoreȱpeopleȱwereȱtryingȱtoȱringȱhimȱnow.ȱIȱ inquiredȱ laterȱ whereȱ mostȱ ofȱ hisȱ colleaguesȱ hadȱ spentȱ theȱ day.ȱ Manyȱ membersȱofȱtheȱeliteȱwhoȱhadȱnoȱofficialȱfunctionȱinȱtheȱparadeȱorȱinȱanyȱ otherȱeventȱattendedȱfestivitiesȱinȱtheirȱhomeȱtownsȱorȱfollowedȱtheȱcereȬ moniesȱonȱtelevision.ȱTheyȱexchangedȱtheirȱimpressionsȱofȱtheȱeventsȱandȱ congratulatedȱ eachȱ other,ȱ talkedȱ aboutȱ nationalȱ andȱ localȱ politics,ȱ byȬ electionsȱandȱtheȱelectionȱofȱtheȱ NPPȱ presidentialȱ candidate.ȱ Aȱ briefȱ chatȱ withȱaȱformerȱministerȱofȱfinanceȱwasȱfollowedȱbyȱcallsȱfromȱdistrictȱchiefȱ executives,ȱ telephoneȱ conversationsȱ withȱ someȱ NPPȱ regionalȱ secretaries,ȱ theȱNPPȱViceȬSecretaryȱofȱtheȱUpperȱWestȱRegionȱandȱaȱyoungȱmemberȱofȱ 26ȱ ȱ CarolaȱLentzȱandȱJanȱBudniokȱ ȱ ȱ PresidentȱKufuor,ȱwearingȱaȱsuitȱduringȱtheȱGoldenȱJubileeȱParadeȱ (frontȱpageȱDailyȱGraphic,ȱMarchȱ7,ȱ2007)ȱ ȱ parliamentȱwhoȱhadȱtravelledȱtoȱhisȱconstituencyȱandȱattendedȱaȱfunctionȱ inȱTemaȱstadium.ȱSomeȱphoneȱcallsȱwereȱalsoȱmadeȱtoȱfamily,ȱfriendsȱandȱ acquaintancesȱinȱhisȱhomeȱregion.ȱ Atȱ2:00ȱpmȱweȱsetȱoutȱforȱtheȱGhanaȱInternationalȱTradeȱFair,ȱonlyȱtoȱ beȱimmediatelyȱcaughtȱinȱaȱtrafficȱjamȱinȱanȱareaȱwhereȱatȱthisȱtimeȱonȱanyȱ otherȱdayȱthereȱwouldȱbeȱnoȱtrafficȱatȱall.ȱWhileȱdriving,ȱweȱagainȱpassedȱ severalȱluxuryȱcarsȱfilledȱwithȱforeignȱdignitaries.ȱWhenȱweȱarrivedȱatȱtheȱ spaciousȱtradeȱfairȱgrounds,ȱhundredsȱofȱpeopleȱwereȱlinedȱupȱinȱfrontȱofȱ theȱmainȱentrance,ȱandȱtheȱlineȱwasȱjustȱasȱlongȱwhenȱweȱleftȱtheȱexhibiȬ tionȱ inȱ theȱ evening.ȱ Weȱ droveȱ intoȱ theȱ backȱ entrance,ȱ whileȱ Edwinȱ sangȱ theȱGhana@50ȱanthem.ȱFestiveȱstreamers,ȱdesignedȱinȱmuchȱtheȱsameȱstyleȱ asȱtheȱGhana@50ȱbanners,ȱandȱinȱsomeȱinstancesȱevenȱsportingȱbothȱlogos,ȱ wereȱhungȱacrossȱtheȱstreetsȱinȱhonourȱofȱtheȱTradeȱFair@40.ȱAȱshortȱdisȬ tanceȱfromȱtheȱparkingȱlotȱweȱtastedȱfreshȱcocoaȱdrinksȱatȱtheȱstandȱrepreȬ sentingȱ theȱ cocoaȱ industry,ȱ whichȱ asȱ ifȱ byȱ aȱ miracleȱ wasȱ celebratingȱ CoȬ coa@60.ȱWhileȱweȱenjoyedȱourȱcocoaȱdrinks,ȱweȱlistenedȱtoȱaȱdetailedȱlecȬ tureȱ onȱ theȱ varietiesȱ ofȱ cocoaȱ beansȱ andȱ theirȱ economicȱ valueȱ ƺȱ theȱ oneȱ cashȱ cropȱ onȱ whichȱ muchȱ ofȱ Ghana’sȱ earlyȱ wealthȱ hadȱ beenȱ basedȱ andȱ whichȱ wasȱ intimatelyȱ relatedȱ toȱ theȱ achievementȱ ofȱ independence.ȱ Later,ȱ weȱtookȱ picturesȱofȱtheȱchildrenȱposingȱnextȱtoȱanȱartificialȱcacaoȱtreeȱonȱ displayȱinȱaȱsmallȱcocoaȱmuseumȱwhichȱpaidȱhomageȱtoȱtheȱcocoaȱbeanȱasȱ theȱsourceȱandȱaȱsymbolȱofȱtheȱnation’sȱwealth.ȱ ȱ Ghana@50ȱ ȱ 27ȱ ȱ ȱ Cocoa@60ȱ(photo:ȱC.ȱLentz)ȱ Theȱvastȱfairȱgroundsȱandȱexhibitionȱhallsȱwereȱcrowdedȱwithȱvisitorsȱ admiringȱtheȱvariousȱstandsȱdisplayingȱcookingȱpots,ȱcloth,ȱwigsȱandȱhairȱ piecesȱbearingȱtheȱnation’sȱcolours.ȱOnȱthisȱdayȱtheȱtradeȱfairȱwasȱnotȱjustȱ aȱ tradeȱ showȱ andȱ anȱ expositionȱ ofȱ consumerȱ goods,ȱ fromȱ theȱ latestȱ elecȬ tronicȱgadgetsȱtoȱsimpleȱcockingȱpots,ȱbutȱaȱfestival.ȱClassesȱofȱschoolchilȬ drenȱ andȱ familiesȱ roamedȱ about.ȱ Peopleȱ metȱ friendsȱ andȱ family,ȱ ateȱ andȱ drankȱ plentyȱ ofȱ beerȱ andȱ softȱ drinks,ȱ wearingȱ Ghana@50ȱ clothes,ȱ clearlyȱ celebratingȱ Independenceȱ Day.ȱ Theȱ fairȱ groundsȱ thusȱ literallyȱ becameȱ somethingȱ ofȱ anȱ extensionȱ ofȱ theȱ festivitiesȱ atȱ Independenceȱ Square,ȱ exȬ ceptȱ thatȱ hereȱ itȱ wasȱ lessȱ crowdedȱ andȱ soȱ moreȱ convenientȱ forȱ families.ȱ Afterȱ oneȬandȬaȬhalfȱ hours,ȱ weȱ restedȱ underȱ aȱ tent,ȱ surroundedȱ byȱ aȱ cheerfulȱcrowd,ȱdrinkingȱandȱeating,ȱandȱweȱjoinedȱthemȱinȱenjoyingȱanȬ otherȱ generousȱ roundȱ ofȱ beer,ȱ kebabȱ andȱ popcornȱ whileȱ lookingȱ someȱ moreȱatȱtheȱpicturesȱonȱeachȱothers’ȱdigitalȱcameras.ȱSomeȱpeopleȱfromȱmyȱ friend’sȱhomeȱregion,ȱNandom,ȱjoinedȱourȱgroupȱandȱbeganȱtoȱdiscussȱtheȱ workȱandȱprogressȱofȱtheirȱfellowȱpeople.ȱThenȱIȱwasȱinȱforȱaȱpleasantȱsurȬ priseȱwhenȱmyȱfriendȱintroducedȱmeȱtoȱDavidȱDontoh,ȱtheȱactorȱwhoȱhadȱ playedȱ Nkrumahȱ theȱ dayȱ beforeȱ onȱ theȱ Oldȱ Poloȱ Grounds,ȱ andȱ whoȱ apȬ parentlyȱisȱanȱoldȱacquaintanceȱofȱhis.ȱ Atȱ sunsetȱ weȱ againȱ joinedȱ theȱ queueȱ ofȱ carsȱ inchingȱ theirȱ wayȱ alongȱ theȱmainȱroad.ȱJudgingȱbyȱtheȱtraffic,ȱitȱseemedȱthatȱnotȱallȱofȱtheȱbetterȬoffȱ hadȱ stayedȱ atȱ homeȱ toȱ followȱ theȱ festivitiesȱ onȱ TVȱ butȱ visiblyȱ celebratedȱ theȱdayȱinȱoneȱorȱtheȱotherȱplaceȱinȱAccra,ȱandȱfamilies,ȱinȱparticular,ȱhadȱ obviouslyȱ optedȱ toȱ enjoyȱ theirȱ dayȱ atȱ venuesȱ otherȱ thanȱ Independenceȱ Square,ȱvenuesȱsuchȱasȱtheȱtradeȱfairȱatȱtheȱfairgrounds.ȱ 28ȱ ȱ CarolaȱLentzȱandȱJanȱBudniokȱ ȱ FinalȱReflections:ȱChillingȱatȱ‘Tina’sȱCoolȱSpot’ȱȱ Inȱtheȱevening,ȱregionalȱfriendshipsȱprevailedȱoverȱpoliticalȱloyalties.ȱWeȱ metȱourȱinformantsȱandȱsomeȱfriendsȱforȱaȱbeerȱatȱTina’sȱCoolȱSpot,ȱaȱbarȱ whichȱforȱaȱnumberȱofȱyearsȱhasȱbeenȱaȱpopularȱhangoutȱforȱUpperȱWestȬ erners.ȱHere,ȱourȱtwoȱinformants,ȱtheȱNDCȱandȱNPPȱpolitician,ȱoftenȱmeetȱ toȱdiscussȱrecentȱpoliticalȱdevelopments,ȱandȱitȱwasȱhereȱthatȱallȱhadȱgathȬ eredȱinȱhonourȱofȱIndependenceȱDay.ȱAȱnumberȱofȱacquaintancesȱhadȱalȬ readyȱspentȱtheȱentireȱdayȱhereȱwatchingȱtheȱfestivitiesȱonȱtelevision.ȱAcȬ tuallyȱitȱwasȱanȱeveningȱmuchȱlikeȱanyȱotherȱatȱtheȱbar,ȱexceptȱthatȱsomeȱ customersȱ wereȱ wearingȱ patrioticȱ tȬshirtsȱ orȱ smocksȱ madeȱ outȱ ofȱ Jubileeȱ clothȱandȱthatȱitȱwasȱperhapsȱaȱbitȱnoisierȱthanȱusual.ȱ Theȱday’sȱeventsȱwereȱnowȱdebatedȱlessȱheatedlyȱthanȱoneȱwouldȱhaveȱ imaginedȱ givenȱ theȱ vigorousȱ debatesȱ thatȱ hadȱ takenȱ placeȱ amongstȱ theȱ partiesȱduringȱtheȱpreviousȱweeks.ȱItȱremainedȱcontentiousȱwhetherȱGhaȬ naȱ@50ȱhadȱbeenȱanȱAccraȱeventȱorȱwhetherȱtheȱgrassȱrootsȱandȱtheȱregionsȱ hadȱ beenȱ sufficientlyȱ included.ȱ Doubtsȱ wereȱ alsoȱ raisedȱ whetherȱ anȱ orȬ ganisationȱ likeȱtheȱgovernmentȬaffiliatedȱ Ghana@50ȱsecretariatȱ wasȱ effecȬ tiveȱ andȱ transparentȱ andȱ whetherȱ itȱ reallyȱ shouldȱ organiseȱ theȱ Africanȱ CoupȱofȱNationsȱ(CAN)ȱ2008,ȱasȱhadȱapparentlyȱbeenȱplanned.ȱShouldȱtheȱ organisationȱnotȱhaveȱinvolvedȱtheȱoppositionȱpartiesȱrightȱfromȱtheȱoutȬ set?ȱInȱanyȱcase,ȱeveryoneȱwasȱ relievedȱthatȱ duringȱ theȱ festivitiesȱnoȱoneȱ hadȱ donnedȱ partyȱ logosȱ orȱ tȬshirtsȱ andȱ thatȱ nationalȱ symbolsȱ predomiȬ nated.ȱ Thusȱ mostȱ peopleȱ feltȱ theȱ festivitiesȱ hadȱ unitedȱ theȱ nationȱ acrossȱ partyȱ linesȱ andȱ strengthenedȱ nationalȱ unity,ȱ althoughȱ theȱ debatesȱ spawnedȱ byȱ theȱ celebrationȱ will,ȱ likeȱ theȱ festivitiesȱ themselves,ȱ continueȱ throughoutȱ theȱ yearȱ andȱ soȱ continueȱ toȱ preoccupyȱ ourȱ friendsȱ andȱ theȱ Ghanaianȱpublic.ȱ Yetȱ despiteȱ allȱ theȱ controversyȱ itȱ becameȱ quiteȱ patentȱ thatȱ theȱ debateȱ wasȱ governedȱ byȱ aȱ numberȱ ofȱ partlyȱ explicit,ȱ butȱ mostlyȱ implicitȱ sharedȱ understandingsȱandȱ‘conventions’ȱthatȱdefineȱGhanaianȬness.ȱTheseȱcomȬ monalitiesȱrestȱnotȱsoȱmuchȱonȱsubstantiveȱsymbols,ȱculturalȱtraitsȱorȱotherȱ ‘objectifiable’ȱ characteristics.ȱ Rather,ȱ Ghanaiansȱ tendȱ toȱ agreeȱ onȱ theȱ imȬ portanceȱ ofȱ theȱ issuesȱ atȱ stakeȱ andȱ onȱ theȱ rulesȱ ofȱ theȱ debate,ȱ definingȱ GhanaianȬnessȱ inȱ referenceȱ toȱ theȱ respectȱ forȱ theseȱ basicȱ rulesȱ ofȱ civility.ȱ Theȱ desirabilityȱ ofȱ politicalȱ diversityȱ andȱ ‘multiȬparty’ȱ democracyȱ isȱ partȱ ofȱtheȱconsensusȱofȱwhatȱshouldȱdefineȱtheȱnation’sȱfuture,ȱand,ȱevenȱmoreȱ importantly,ȱGhanaiansȱagreeȱthatȱdisagreementsȱshouldȱbyȱallȱmeansȱbeȱ resolvedȱ (orȱ tolerated)ȱ withoutȱ recourseȱ toȱ violence.ȱ ‘Unityȱ inȱ diversity’,ȱ withȱregardȱtoȱbothȱpoliticsȱandȱethnicȬregionalȱdiversityȱisȱmoreȱthanȱjustȱ anȱofficialȱslogan,ȱitȱisȱaȱwidelyȱsharedȱconviction.ȱYetȱhowȱpreciselyȱthisȱ maximȱ isȱ toȱ beȱ realisedȱ isȱ controversial,ȱ butȱ suchȱ controversyȱ inȱ turnȱ strengthensȱnationalȱconsciousnessȱandȱdeepensȱaȱsenseȱofȱcommonality.ȱȱ Ghana@50ȱ ȱ 29ȱ ȱ Referencesȱ Ayensu,ȱK.ȱB.ȱandȱS.ȱN.ȱDarkwa,ȱ1999:ȱTheȱEvolutionȱofȱParliamentȱinȱGhana.ȱ Accra:ȱSubȬSaharanȱPublishers.ȱ Nugent,ȱPaul,ȱ 1999:ȱLivingȱ inȱtheȱpast:ȱ urban,ȱ ruralȱandȱ ethnicȱthemesȱinȱ theȱ1992ȱandȱ1996ȱelectionsȱ inȱ Ghana.ȱ Journalȱ ofȱ Modernȱ Africanȱ Studiesȱ 37:ȱ287ƺ319.ȱ Nugent,ȱPaul,ȱ2001:ȱWinners,ȱlosersȱandȱalsoȱrans:ȱmoney,ȱmoralȱauthorityȱ andȱ votingȱ patternsȱ inȱ theȱ Ghanaȱ 2000ȱ elections.ȱ Africanȱ Affairsȱ 100:ȱ 405ƺ28.ȱ