Textila 2_2012.qxd - Institutul National de Cercetare

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Industria
Textila˘
ISSN 1222–5347 (177–232)
4/2013
Editatã în 6 nr./an, indexatã ºi recenzatã în:
Edited in 6 issues per year, indexed and abstracted in:
Science Citation Index Expanded (SciSearch®), Materials Science
Citation Index®, Journal Citation Reports/Science Edition, World Textile
Abstracts, Chemical Abstracts, VINITI, Scopus
Revistã cotatã ISI ºi inclusã în Master Journal List a Institutului pentru
ªtiinþa Inform ã rii din Philadelphia – S.U.A., începând cu vol. 58,
nr. 1/2007/
ISI rated magazine, included in the ISI Master Journal List of the Institute
of Science Information, Philadelphia, USA, starting with vol. 58, no. 1/2007
COLEGIUL
DE REDACTIE:
¸
Dr. ing. EMILIA VISILEANU
cerc. şt. pr. gr. I – EDITOR ŞEF
Institutul Naţional de Cercetare-Dezvoltare
pentru Textile şi Pielărie – Bucureşti
Dr. ing. CARMEN GHIŢULEASA
cerc. şt. pr. II
Institutul Naţional de Cercetare-Dezvoltare
pentru Textile şi Pielărie – Bucureşti
Prof. dr. GELU ONOSE
cerc. şt. pr. gr. I
Universitatea de Medicină şi Farmacie
„Carol Davila“ – Bucureşti
Prof. dr. GEBHARDT RAINER
Saxon Textile Research Institute – Germania
Prof. dr. ing. CRIŞAN POPESCU
Institutul German de Cercetare a Lânii – Aachen
Prof. dr. ing. PADMA S. VANKAR
Facility for Ecological and Analytical Testing
Indian Institute of Technology – India
Prof. dr. SEYED A. HOSSEINI RAVANDI
Isfahan University of Technology – Iran
Dr. FRANK MEISTER
TITK – Germania
Prof. dr. ing. ERHAN ÖNER
Marmara University – Istanbul
Dr. ing. FAMING WANG
Lund University – Sweden
Conf. univ. dr. ing. CARMEN LOGHIN
Universitatea Tehnică „Ghe. Asachi“ – Iaşi
Ing. MARIANA VOICU
Ministerul Economiei, Comerţului
şi Mediului de Afaceri
Conf. univ. dr. ing.
LUCIAN CONSTANTIN HANGANU
Universitatea Tehnică „Ghe. Asachi“ – Iaşi
Prof. ing. ARISTIDE DODU
cerc. şt. pr. gr. I
Membru de onoare al Academiei de Ştiinţe
Tehnice din România
Conf. univ. dr. DOINA I. POPESCU
Academia de Studii Economice – Bucureşti
industria textila
˘
HONGYAN WU, FUMEI WANG
Caracteristicile și factorii care influențează distribuția lungimii
fibrei de capoc
MARCUS O. WEBER, FARZANA AKTER, ANDREA EHRMANN
Ecranarea câmpurilor magnetice statice cu ajutorul materialelor textile
ANA VÎRCAN, SAVIN DORIN IONESI, STAN MITU,
ALA DABIJA, LAVINIA CAPMARE
Interdependența dintre parametrii antropometrici specifici
grupei de vârstă 7–10 ani
HONGXIA JIANG, JIHONG LIU, RURU PAN,
WEIDONG GAO, HONGFU WANG
Autogenerarea unei imagini color pe materiale textile, cu ajutorul FFT
ABRAMIUC DANKO, CRIȘAN POPESCU, SIMONA DUNCA,
AUGUSTIN MUREȘAN
Îmbunătățirea proprietăților materialelor textile din bumbac,
prin tratarea cu chitosan și săruri metalice
OKSAN ORAL, M. CETIN ERDOGAN, ESRA DIRGAR
Relația dintre tipurile de modele și parametrii conecși
MIHAELA CARP, AUREL POPP
Influenţa artei tradiţionale în creaţia vestimentară actuală
IOANA CORINA MOGA, FLOAREA PRICOP, MARIUS IORDĂNESCU,
RĂZVAN SCARLAT, ANGELA DOROGAN
Monitorizarea calității apelor uzate, generate de industria textilă
DOCUMENTARE
179–183
184–187
188–194
195–203
204–209
210–216
217–221
222–228
221, 229-231
ANIVERSARE
232
Recunoscutã în România, în domeniul ªtiinþelor inginereºti, de cãtre
Consiliul Naþional al Cercetãrii ªtiinþifice din Învãþãmântul Superior
(C.N.C.S.I.S.), în grupa A /
Aknowledged in Romania, in the engineering sciences domain,
by the National Council of the Scientific Research from the Higher Education
(CNCSIS), in group A
177
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Contents
MHONGYAN WU
FUMEI WANG
MARCUS O. WEBER
FARZANA AKTER
ANDREA EHRMANN
ANA VÎRCAN
SAVIN DORIN IONESI
STAN MITU, ALA DABIJA
LAVINIA CAPMARE
HONGXIA JIANG, JIHONG LIU
RURU PAN, WEIDONG GAO
HONGFU WANG
ABRAMIUC DANKO
CRIȘAN POPESCU
SIMONA DUNCA
AUGUSTIN MUREȘAN
OKSAN ORAL
M. CETIN ERDOGAN
ESRA DIRGAR
MIHAELA CARP
AUREL POPP
IOANA CORINA MOGA
FLOAREA PRICOP
MARIUS IORDĂNESCU
RĂZVAN SCARLAT
ANGELA DOROGAN
DOCUMENTARE
Features and influencing factors of kapok fiber length distribution
179
Shielding of static magnetic fields by textiles
184
Interdependence between anthropometric parameters
specific for the age group 7-10 years
188
Auto-generation color image for fabric based on FFT
195
Improving cotton textile materials properties by treating with
chitosan and metallic salts
204
The relationship between model types and related parameters
210
The influence of traditional art in the current fashion design
217
Quality monitoring for wastewater generated by the textile finishing
222
Documentation
ANIVERSARE
221, 229
Anniversary
232
Referenþii articolelor publicate în acest numãr al revistei INDUSTRIA TEXTILÃ/
Scientific reviewers for the papers published in this number:
Cerc. şt. gr. I prof. dr. ing./ Senior researcher prof. dr. eng CĂRPUŞ EFTALEA
Cerc. şt. gr. I dr. ing./ Senior researcher dr. eng. EMILIA VISILEANU
Cerc. şt. gr. III dr. ing./ Senior researcher dr. eng. ALINA POPESCU
Cerc. ş t. dr. ing./ Senior researcher dr. eng. OLARU SABINA
Cerc. şt. drd. ing. gr. II / Senior researcher eng. CLAUDIA NICULESCU PhD
Cerc. şt. gr. III ing./ Senior researcher eng. DOINA TOMA PhD
Cercet. şt. mat./ Senior researcher mat. MIHAI STAN
Drd. ing./ Eng. GEORGETA POPESCU PhD
Biolog/ Biologist CLARA RĂDULESCU
Revista „INDUSTRIA TEXTILÃ“, Institutul Naþional de Cercetare-Dezvoltare
pentru Textile ºi Pielãrie – Bucureºti
Redacþia (Editura CERTEX), administraþia ºi casieria: Bucureºti, str. Lucreþiu Pãtrăºcanu nr. 16, sector 3, tel.: 021-340.42.00, 021-340.02.50/226, e-mail:
[email protected]; Fax: +4021-340.55.15. Pentru abonamente, contactaþi redacþia revistei. Instituþiile pot achita abonamentele în contul nostru de virament: RO25RNCB0074029214420001 B.C.R. sector 3, Bucureºti.
Lucrare realizatã în colaborare cu Editura AGIR , Calea Victoriei nr. 118, sector 1, Bucureºti, tel./fax: 021-316.89.92; 021-316.89.93;
e-mail: [email protected], www.edituraagir.ro
industria textila
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178
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
FUMEI WANG
HONGYAN WU
REZUMAT – ABSTRACT
Caracteristicile și factorii care influențează distribuția lungimii fibrei de capoc
În scopul furnizării unor informații utile pentru procesarea, prelucrarea și filarea fibrelor de capoc, lucrarea s-a axat pe
studierea lungimii fibrelor din fructe. S-a analizat structura internă a fructelor de capoc și s-a descoperit faptul că fibrele
cu lungime mai mare pot fi separate din fructe cu mai multă ușurință. În urma măsurării lungimii fibrelor, s-au obținut
caracteristicile distribuției lungimii fibrelor de capoc. Diagrama aranjamentului este o distribuție continuă, iar distribuția
lungime-număr de fibre este una distorsionată, similară cu cea a bumbacului. De asemenea, au fost analizați factorii
care influențează lungimea fibrei. Rezultatele au arătat că fructul speciei de capoc de pe insula Hainan este, în mod
evident, mai mic decât cel din Java cu aproximativ 5 mm. Lungimea fructelor poate influența lungimea fibrei, pe când
perimetrul de mijloc al fructelor și locul de creștere nu afectează lungimea acesteia.
Cuvinte-cheie: fibre de capoc, distribuția lungimii fibrei, specie, mărimea fructelor, locul creșterii
In order to supply useful information for kapok fiber planting, processing and spinning, this study focused on length of
fibers in fruits. The internal structure of kapok fruit was analyzed to find that fibers with longer length could be separated easily from fruits. By testing fibers length, features of kapok fiber length distribution were obtained. Arrangement diagram is continuous distribution and fiber length-number distribution is all skewed distribution, similar with those of cotton. Moreover, influencing factors of fiber length were analyzed. The results show Hainan Island kapok is obviously
shorter than that of Java kapok about 5 mm. Fruit length could impact on fiber length; middle perimeter of fruit and
growth site do not affect fiber length.
Key-words: kapok fiber, fiber length distribution, breed, fruit size, growth site
W
ith the depletion of oil resources as well as environmental harm caused by chemical fiber, more
people favor natural fibers like cotton, wool, silk and
linen. However, increment of the four natural fibers is
very limited. Thus, recently, a new natural fiber,
namely kapok fiber, is developed and applied.
Kapok is a tropical tree of the family Bombacaceae
[1], mainly widespread in Indonesia and Southeast
Asia. Currently applied kapok mainly referred to
Bombax malabaricum, Gaeritn Bombax insignis and
Fig. 1. Kapok tree
industria textila
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Ceiba Pentandra [2, 3]. Every year, kapoks can bear,
as shown in figure 1, green fruits, in which fibers
grow, are immature kapok fruits. After fruits are
mature, kapok fibers can be extracted to be used in
textiles. The high hollowness, about 80 – 90%, is the
most significant feature of kapok fibers [4], as shown
in figure 2 a. From figure 2 b, it is seen that both
ends of the fiber are closed [4]. So, kapok fibers are
often used as a stuffing material, buoyancy material
and oil-absorbing material. In recent years, with the
development of spinnability, kapok fibers could be
blended with other cellulose fibers [5] and a variety of
blends are available.
It is known that length is one of the most important
parameters of fibers because it has effects on yarn
strength, yarn hairiness, the properties of fabrics and
the efficiency of the yarn spinning process. Therefore,
a
179
b
Fig. 2. Kapok fiber: a – hollow structure; b – end of fiber
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
in order to apply kapok fiber on textile well, it is necessary to obtain the basic information about kapok
fiber length. However, at present, there is little research
about features of kapok fiber length-distribution and
factors which may affect fiber length. To solve this
problem, in this paper, first, structure of kapok fruit
was analyzed to provide a method by which longer
fibers can be extracted from kapok fruits. Second,
kapok fibers, from Java in Indonesia and Hainan
Island in China, were tested to get features of fiber
length distribution. Third, factors which may affect the
fiber length were analyzed. These researches provide useful information for planting, processing and
spinning of kapok fibers.
ANALYSIS OF THE STRUCTURE OF KAPOK FRUIT
In order to clarify the fiber distribution in kapok fruit,
in this section, the mature kapok fruit was observed.
It is slender column in shape (fig. 3 a), 150–300 mm
in length, about 150 mm of middle perimeter. The pod
of the kapok fruit is hard, light brown and had uneven
striae in surface.
When the fruit was opened along the central axis,
fiber bundles are found, which grow in the inner wall
with about 10 mm thickness (fig. 3 b) and shaded
area of figure 3 e. In the middle of pod, there are
short staples and seeds divided into five ventricles
with same structure by wooden walls (fig. 3 e). The
wooden wall adheres to short fibers named short staples which enclosed seeds (fig. 3 c).
It was observed that fibers in the fruit can be divided
into two parts: the first part is the fiber bundle. They
tightly folded, densely piled on the inner wall. The
fiber bundle extracted from pod is umbrella structure
whose one end was orderly and the other is fluffy
(fig. 3 d). Fiber bundles are mostly 10 – 25 mm in
length. Also, they have little adhesion to short staple
and seeds. Each fruit can pack about 12 – 15 g fiber
bundles. The second part is short staple in the middle
of fruit. They adhere to wooden wall (fig. 3 c) and are
mostly 6 – 10 mm in length. They also have little adhesion to seeds.
The kapok fiber is different from the cotton fiber. The
cotton fiber is seed fiber formed from epidermis cell
and adheres to seeds. However, the kapok fiber is
fruit fiber. They adhere to the inner wall of fruit,
formed from in wall cell and are loosely held to the
seed. Cotton fibers are separated from the seed by
the ginning process while kapok fibers are separated
just by shaking [6]. Also, fiber bundles have little
adhesion to short staple, so the two parts can be separated easily. Therefore, processing factory can get
only fibers bundles with longer length by separating
them from kapok fruits.
FEATURES OF FIBER LENGTH DISTRIBUTION
Sample
Two kapok fruits from Java in Indonesia were marked
as 1 # and 2 #, and two fruits of Hainan Island in
China were marked as I # and II #. Only fiber bundles
in fruits were extracted and measured.
Test method
Single fiber measurement method is the most accurate method for fiber length test, so it was selected to
test length of fiber inside kapok fruit. Single fiber
measurement method was as follows: pick up single
fiber with tweezers, drag it on velvet board to straight
it and measure it with a scale reading one decimal.
Each experiment tested about 500 fibers [7]. Each of
the fruits is zoned in three parts: head, middle and
tail. Each part is about one third of the whole fruit, as
shown in figure 4. Fiber length of each part was measured, respectively.
a
d
b
c
e
Fig. 3. Structure of kapok fruit
industria textila
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Fig. 4. Zoned three parts of kapok fruit
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS
Arrangement diagram
Length of fiber was uneven. Importing the data of
fiber length measured by Single fiber measurement
method into computer, the fiber length could be
arranged from long to short, final arrangement diagram, also called bear diagram, could be obtained
(fig. 5).
Figure 5 shows that fiber length arrangement of Java
and Hainan Island kapok is continuous distribution
from long to short fiber, similar with cotton and having
the notable feature of natural fiber distribution.
180
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
a
a
b
c
b
d
Fig. 5. Arrangement diagram of fiber length:
a – Java kapok 1 #; b – Java kapok 2 #; c – Hainan
Island kapok I #; d – Hainan Island kapok II #
Fiber length-number distribution histogram
The length data above were grouped with interval
2 mm. The length less than 4.5 mm was grouped as
the first group. The number of fiber with length more
than 30 mm was relatively little, so the length more
than 30.5 mm belonged to a group. Finally fiber
length-number distribution could be obtained and
showed in figure 6.
Figure 6 shows that fiber length-number distributions,
in different parts and different breeds of kapok fruit,
are all skewed distribution, and similar with those of
cotton. From figure 6, it also can be seen that fiber
length of Java 1 # and 2 # is mainly ranged from 15.5
to 27.5 mm and 17.5 to 29.5 mm, respectively, and
fiber length of Hainan Island I # and II # is mainly
ranged from 12 to 20 mm and 16 to 28 mm, respectively. It is readily seen that in different parts and
breeds, fiber length is different, so it is necessary to
analyze factors which may impact fiber length.
Therefore, several possible factors will be analyzed
bellow.
ANALYSIS OF THE FACTORS AFFECTING
THE FIBER LENGTH
Kapok breeds
Java in Indonesia and Hainan Island in China are
main kapok growing area. Java Kapok belongs to
industria textila
˘
c
d
Fig. 6. Histogram of fiber length-number distribution:
a – Java kapok 1 #; b – Java kapok 2 #; c – Hainan
Island kapok I #; d – Hainan Island kapok II #
Ceiba pentandra and Hainan Island kapok belongs to
Panzhihua kapok, which are main kapok breeds.
Based on above fiber length measurement, the average length of the two breeds was calculated, as shown
in table 1. Also, weight percentage of fibers longer
than 16 mm, were calculated, as shown in table 2.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Table 1
AVERAGE LENGTH OF THE TWO BREEDS, mm
Sample
Average
length
1 # middle
21.7
1 # head
1 # tail
2 # head
2 # middle
2 # tail
21.0
20.0
24.0
23.5
23.0
Sample
Average
length
Numbers
I # middle
15.2
2#
I # head
I # tail
II # head
II # middle
II # tail
19.7
1 # middle
1 # head
1 # tail
2 # head
2 # middle
2 # tail
Sample
Weight percentage
86.4
I # middle
35.2
92.6
II # head
72.5
81.4
78.8
89.9
92.8
I # head
I # tail
II # middle
II # tail
Numbers
39.2
38.6
73.1
78.5
From table 1, it is seen that average length of Java
kapok is mainly ranged from 20.0 to 25.0 mm, and
that of Hainan Island kapok is mainly ranged from
15.0 to 20.0 mm. So, fiber average length of Hainan
Island kapok is shorter than Java kapok fiber’s about
5 mm. From table 2, we know that weight percentage
of fibers longer than 16 mm of Hainan Island is lower
than Java kapok’s. Therefore, Java kapok fiber is
more useful than Hainan Island kapok fiber in textile
application, and Java kapok should be spread in
planting industry.
Fruit size
Five kapok fruits from Java in Indonesia were marked
as 1 # to 5 #. The fruit size was shown in table 3.
These fibers length were tested by Single fiber measurement method, as shown in table 4.
According to the data in table 3 and table 4, figure 7
was drawn to analyze the relationship of fiber length
and fruit size. The regression equation is significant
by significance test of the linear regression. This indicates the fiber is longer as the fruit is longer. Figure 7
also shows fiber length has no relation with middle
perimeter of fruit. So, if you want to get longer fibers,
you can choose longer kapok fruits. The relationship
has some referential value on purchasing kapok
fruits.
Growth size in kapok fruit
Table 4 shows fiber length is different in head, middle
and tail. To compare fiber length of the three parts,
the data of table 4 were paired for significance test in
table 5.
industria textila
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156
158
Fiber length
middle
20.42
20.36
3#
19.80
5#
158
head
21.60
4#
226
156
FIBER LENGTH, mm
1#
2#
165
280
188
5#
19.4
19.3
230
204
4#
WEIGHT PERCENTAGE OF FIBERS LONGER
THAN 16 mm, %
Weight percentage
Length of fruit, Length of middle
mm
perimeter, mm
3#
15.1
Table 2
Sample
KAPOK FRUIT SIZE
1#
14.8
Table 3
22.50
19.76
tail
average
20.99
20.59
22.00
20.60
21.00
20.20
22.16
20.22
Table 4
22.38
19.07
21.40
20.30
22.35
19.68
a
b
Fig. 7. Relationship of fiber length and fruit size
Take significance level: a = 0.05, t1 – a/2 (n – 1) =
= t1–0.025 (4) = 2.7764, in table 5, three statistics are
all less than 2.7764. It shows fiber length of the three
parts has no significant difference. So there is no
need of taking into account length difference in
growth size.
182
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Table 5
SIGNIFICANCE TEST
Kapok fruits
1#
Head-middle
–0.40
Head-tail
1.00
Middle-tail
Kapok fruits
1.40
1#
2#
3#
0.06
–1.20
–0.57
–0.40
–0.63
2#
0.80
4#
5#
Average
0.34
–0.46
–0.33
0.12
0.69
0.17
–0.22
3#
1.15
4#
CONCLUSIONS
In order to provide basic information for kapok planting, purchasing and processing, this study focused
on kapok fiber length. Main conclusions obtained are
following:
• The internal structure of kapok fruit could be divided into two parts: fiber bundle and combination of
short staple and seeds, and they had little adhesion. Therefore, it provides a way in which fiber
bundle and short staple could be separated easily, and longer fibers could be obtained. It is very
useful for factory to process kapok fibers.
• By fiber length measurement, features of kapok
fiber length distribution were obtained. Arrangement
diagram presents continuous distribution from long
•
5#
0.50
average
Sample
standard
deviation
Statistic
0.8829
1.2663
0.5873
1.2640
0.6772
0.5547
sample
standard
deviation
statistic
to short fiber, and fiber length-number distribution
is skewed distribution. So, kapok fiber length has
the notable features of natural fiber distribution.
Factors that may affect fiber length were analyzed. The results show fiber average length of
Hainan Island kapok is shorter than Java kapok
fiber’s about 5 mm, and weight percentage of
fibers longer than 16 mm of Hainan Island is lower
than Java kapok’s; usually the fiber is longer as
the fruit is longer; middle perimeter of fruit and
grow site do not affect fiber length.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This work was supported by “the Fundamental Research
Funds for the Central Universities” in China.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
[1] Keko, H., Maxima, E. F., Shigenori, K. Thi bach tuyet lam and Kenji Iiyama. In: The Japan Wood Research Society,
2000, vol. 46, p. 401
[2] Hong, X., Wei, Y. D., Mei, S. W. Characters and application prospects of kapok fiber. In: Journal of Donghua
University: Natural Science Edition, 2005, vol. 31, issue 2, p. 121
[3] Chinese Academy of Sciences: China flora Editorial Committee. Flora of China (forty-ninth volumes second fascicule). Science press, Beijing, 1984, p. 102–111
[4] Wei, L. Kapok battings and its thermal insulation properties. Donghua University, 2011, p. 19
[5] Mei, S. W., Hong, X., Wei, Y. D. The fine structure of the kapok fiber. In: Textile Research Journal, 2010, vol. 80,
issue 2, p. 159
[6] Mwaikambo, L. Y. Review of the history, properties and application of plant fibers. In: African Journal of Science
and Technology (AJST), Science and Engineering Series, 2006, vol. 7, issue 2, p. 126
[7] GB/T 16257-2008. Textile fibers – Test method for length and length distribution of staple fibers – Measurement of
single fibers. China Standards Publishing House, Beijing, 2008
Authors:
HONGYAN WU
FUMEI WANG
Donghua University – College of textiles
Room 4007, Bld. G 6, 2999 North Renmin Road
Songjiang District, Shanghai – China
e-mail: [email protected]
Corresponding author:
FUMEI WANG
industria textila
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183
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
MARCUS O. WEBER
FARZANA AKTER
ANDREA EHRMANN
Ecranarea câmpurilor magnetice statice cu ajutorul materialelor textile
Câmpurile magnetice statice și de joasă frecvență pot să apară în transformatoarele de rețea, motoare, osciloscoape,
magneți puternici de laborator etc. Aceste câmpuri pot fi ecranate doar cu ajutorul unor materiale cu permeabilitate
ridicată. În cazul câmpurilor magnetice slabe, μ-metal sau Metglas posedă o permeabilitate foarte mare, ceea ce
conduce la factori de ecranare ridicați. Cu toate acestea, niciunul dintre cele două materiale nu este potrivit pentru
câmpuri intense, deoarece permeabilitatea magnetică, care este dependentă de intensitatea câmpului magnetic, scade
semnificativ în cazul câmpurilor magnetice cu valoarea de aproximativ 1 oersted sau mai mare. În experimentele
efectuate, au fost integrate fire metalice fine și fire din diferite materiale magnetice în structuri textile tricotate din urzeală.
Aceste materiale au fost înfășurate pe cilindri cu un anumit diametru și s-a măsurat factorul de ecranare în intervalul
± 100 Oe. Indicatorii de protecție s-au dovedit a fi mult mai mici decât valorile unei bare realizate din oțel solid, dar, cu
toate acestea, experimentele efectuate arată că, în principiu, ecranarea câmpurilor magnetice statice cu ajutorul
materialelor textile magnetice este posibilă.
Cuvinte-cheie: câmpuri magnetice statice, ecranare, textile magnetice, anizotropii magnetice
Low-frequency and static magnetic fields occur, e.g., in mains transformers, motors, oscilloscopes, strong laboratory
magnets etc. They can be shielded only by materials of high permeability. For weak magnetic fields, μ-metal or Metglas
have very high permeabilities leading to large shielding factors. However, both materials are not suited for larger fields,
since the field-dependent permeability decreases significantly for magnetic fields of about 1 Oersted (Oe) or higher. In
our experiments, we integrated metallic fine yarns fine and yarns from different magnetic materials into warp-knitted
fabrics. These fabrics were formed into cylinders of defined diameter. The shielding factor was measured in the field
range of ± 100 Oe. Shielding ratios were found to be much lower than values of a solid steel bar; however, these experiments point out that shielding of static magnetic fields with magnetic textiles is possible in principle.
Key-words: static magnetic fields, shielding, magnetic textiles, magnetic anisotropies
P
eople working under high-voltage power lines, at
microwave ovens, or in research laboratories can
be shielded from high-frequency electro-magnetic
fields by protective clothing with conductive parts
[1–4]. Low-frequency and static magnetic fields,
however, can only be shielded by materials of high
permeability. Such fields occur, e. g., in mains transformers, motors, oscilloscopes, strong laboratory
magnets etc.
The magnetic permeability (magnetic conductivity) of
a material is a measure of the material’s ability to
support the formation of a magnetic field in it, i.e. the
magnetization built up in a material due to an applied
magnetic field. Mathematically, this relation can be
described as:
(1)
B = H
where:
B is the magnetic induction, Gauss (G);
H – the magnetic field, Oersted (Oe);
 – the permeability.
While for diamagnetic and paramagnetic materials,
the permeability, , can be calculated as:
 = B / H
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(2)
The permeability is no longer constant for ferromagnetic or superparamagnetic materials. For these materials, equation (2) has to be changed into the
derivation:
 = dB / dH
(3)
S = Bwithout / Bwith
(4)
Equation (3) shows that the permeability of ferromagnetic materials is – for a typical shape of a ferromagnetic hysteresis loop – highest near the coercive
field.
The shielding factor is defined as following equation
(4):
where:
Bwithout represents the magnetic induction before the
magnetic shielding material is introduced;
Bwith – the magnetic induction when the shielding is
being used.
The shielding factor, as the value of the reduction of
the magnetic induction by a shielding material, is larger than 1 for ferromagnetic materials. It can also be
expressed in % or in dB. On the other hand, for a
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
long hollow cylinder in a transverse magnetic field,
the shielding factor can be calculated as:
S = r d / D
(5)
where:
d is the material thickness of the cylinder;
D – the cylinder diameter.
For very weak magnetic fields, -metal or Metglas [5]
have a very high permeability and can thus lead to a
high shielding factor. However, both materials are not
suited for larger fields, since the field-dependent permeability decreases significantly for magnetizing
fields in the order of magnitude of 1 Oe or higher. For
shielding of larger magnetic fields, materials need
higher coercive fields, i.e. “broader” hysteresis loops.
parallel to the external field (fig. 2). Depending on the
permeability of the wires, the magnetic field lines are
more or less strongly drawn into the cylinder material, leading to a reduction of the magnetic field inside
the cylinders and a respective deformation of the field
lines.
Sample preparation
The knitted fabrics have been used to produce cylinders of diameter 2 cm with the wires perpendicular or
While the shielding effect of stainless steel staple
fiber yarn has turned out to be too small to be measured accurately, the samples containing different
magnetic wires showed significant shielding effects.
In order to depict the influence of the field-dependent
permeability, measurements for all samples have been
performed during a field sweep from H = +100 Oe →
–100 Oe → +100 Oe.
Figure 3 shows the results of a measurement on
sample with nickel wires of diameter 0.08 mm as
stitches oriented parallel to the external magnetic
field (0°, left panel) or perpendicular to the field lines
(90°, right panel). For magnetic fields numerically
larger than ~30 Oe, the shielding factor S is ~1, which
means Bwith and Bwithout are nearly identical, thus
there is no shielding effect. For smaller fields, however, an effect can be seen. Apparently, the direction
of the courses does not show much difference in
shielding, since both graphs – with the stitches oriented parallel or perpendicular to the field lines – look
very similar.
a
b
a
b
EXPERIMENTAL PART
Materials used
In our experiments, we integrated fine wires from
stainless steal, nickel, and iron into warp and weft
knitted fabrics as weft threads or as stitches, respectively (fig. 1). These fabrics have been used to form
cylinders of defined diameter. The shielding factor
has been measured in the field region of ±100 Oe by
measuring Bwithout and Bwith in the identical setup.
Fig. 1. Weft knitted samples, containing: a – nickel wires of diameter 0.3 mm as
weft threads; b – produced from stainless steel staple fiber yarn
Fig. 2. Cylinders made from knitted samples containing: a – magnetic wires perpendicular (90°) to the external
magnetic field (blue arrows); b – magnetic wires parallel (0°) to the external magnetic field
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185
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
a
b
a
b
This behavior changes significantly for thicker nickel
wires integrated in a non-magnetic knitted fabric as
weft threads (fig. 3). On the one hand, the maximum
shielding factor S is much larger now (~2.5). On the
other hand, the difference between a wire orientation
parallel to the external magnetic field (fig. 4 a) and
the orientation perpendicular to it (fig. 4 b) is obvious.
This finding can be explained as follows: The wires
parallel to the external magnetic field can “lead” the
magnetic flux along the shielded region, resulting in
less magnetic flux Bwith in the shielded area. If the
wires are perpendicular to the magnetic field lines,
however, the magnetic flux can only be led along
short distances, i.e. inside the wires which have only
a small diameter, compared to the distance between
neighboring wires. Thus, the shielding efficiency
must be smaller in the latter case.
For a comparison of the results of nickel wires with
those of other materials, figure 5 shows the shielding
factors measured for a knitted fabric containing iron
wires of diameter 0.2 mm. Firstly, the maximum shielding factor becomes even larger for iron than for nickel,
although the iron wire diameter is smaller than the
value for the thicker nickel wire (0.3 mm). This shows
that iron has a higher maximum permeability than
nickel.
Secondly, the difference between both sample orientations is smaller for the iron wires. Taking into
account figure 2 a it could be expected that thicker
wires would lead the magnetic flux along larger distances (i.e. along their diameters) and thus be more
effective for the wires being oriented 90° to the magnetic field lines. However, this idea is only valid for
materials with identical form anisotropies, i.e. materials
rotating the magnetization in the respective wires in
the wire directions in the same way. Higher form
anisotropies would decrease the possible ways of the
magnetic flux through a wire oriented perpendicular
to the field lines. Thus, the finding that iron wires show
less difference between both orientations although
Fig. 3. Shielding factors of weft knitted fabrics containing nickel wires of diameter 0.3 mm:
a – weft threads oriented parallel to the external magnetic field (0°);
b – weft threads oriented perpendicular to the field lines (90°)
Fig. 4. Shielding factors of weft knitted fabrics containing nickel wires of diameter 0.08 mm in stitches:
a – the courses oriented parallel to the external magnetic field (0°);
b – the courses oriented parallel perpendicular to the field lines (90°)
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186
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
a
b
they have a smaller diameter points out, that the nickel wires have a stronger form anisotropy which tends
to align the magnetization along the wire direction,
while in the iron wires, the magnetization orientation
is less strongly influenced by the wire orientation,
allowing for a better flux conductivity along the wire
diameter.
Depending on the wire diameter, the spaces between
the wires, their orientation, and the material, we
found shielding ratios between 1.3 for fine nickel
wires (0.08 mm) and ~4 for thin iron wires (0.2 mm)
in the field range of ±100 Oe.
These values are relatively low, compared to, e.g., a
solid steel bar reaching values about ten times higher; however, these experiments pointed out that
shielding of static magnetic fields with magnetic textiles is possible in principle. Future research will concentrate on experiments with different raw materials
for various magnetic fields.
Fig. 5. Shielding factors of weft knitted fabrics containing iron wires of diameter 0.2 mm with:
a – weft threads oriented parallel to the external magnetic field (0°);
b – weft threads oriented perpendicular to the field lines (90°)
CONCLUSIONS
In conclusion, we integrated fine wires from different
materials as well as yarns with metallic fibres into
warp-knitted fabrics and formed them into cylinders
of defined diameter.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
[1] Brzezinski, S., Rybicki, T., Karbownik, I., Malinowska, G., Rybicki, E., Szugajew, L., Lao, M., Sledzinska, K. Textile
multi-layer systems for protection against electromagnetic radiation. In: Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 2009,
vol. 17 , issue 73, pp. 66-71
[2] Mac, T., Houis, S., Gries, T. Faserstoff-Tabellen nach P.-A. Koch. Metallfasern, 1st edition, Deutscher Fachverlag
GmbH, 2004
[3] Sonehara, M., Noguchi, S., Kurashina, T., Sato, T., Yamasawa, K., Miura, Y. Development of an electromagnetic
wave shielding textile by electroless Ni-based alloy plating. In: IEEE Transactions on magnetics, 2009, vol. 45,
issue 10, pp. 4 173-4 175
[4] Sonehara, M., Sato, T., Takasaki, M., Konishi, H., Yamasawa, K., Miura, Y. Preparation and characterization of
nanofiber nonwoven textile for electromagnetic wave shielding. In: IEEE Transactions on magnetics, 2008, vol. 44,
issue 11, pp. 3 107-3 110
[5] Malkowski, S., Adhikari, R., Hona, B., Mattie, C., Woods, D., Yan, H., Plaster, B. Technique for high axial shielding
factor performance of large-scale, thin, open-ended, cylindrical Metglas magnetic shields. In: Review of Scientific
Instruments, 2011, vol. 82, issue 7, p. 075-104
[6] Sasada, I., Yamamoto, T., Yamauchi, T. Large shielding factor obtained by a multiple-shell magnetic shield having
separate magnetic shaking. In: Journal of Applied Physics, 1996, vol. 79, issue 8, pp. 5 490-5 492
Authors:
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MARCUS O. WEBER
FARZANA AKTER
ANDREA EHRMANN
Faculty of Textile and Clothing Technology
Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences
Webschulstr. 31
41065 Mönchengladbach, Germany
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Interdependence between anthropometric parameters
specific for the age group 7–10 years
ANA VÎRCAN
SAVIN DORIN IONESI
STAN MITU
ALA DABIJA
LAVINIA CAPMARE
Interdependența dintre parametrii antropometrici specifici grupei de vârstă 7–10 ani
Fenomenul de creştere şi dezvoltare este un fenomen neuniform, care se desfăşoară în ritmuri diferite. În lucrare sunt
evidenţiate relaţiile necesare unei proiectări constructive, pornind de la datele antropometrice selectate pe un eşantion
de 393 de copii (194 de fete şi 199 de băieţi), având la bază algoritmul de stabilire a interdependenţelor cu alte
dimensiuni, care au aceeaşi orientare față de corp. Datele centralizate în tabele, împreună cu coeficienţii de corelaţie,
atestă veridicitatea rezultatelor cercetării teoretice şi experimentale. Scopul lucrării îl constituie determinarea dependenţelor dintre diferite mărimi antropometrice şi elaborarea unor modele matematice, în vederea determinării
dimensiunilor secundare, care să caracterizeze cât mai bine forma corpului. Analiza dependenţelor vizează fundamentarea unor modele matematice stabilite pe baza ecuaţiilor de regresie, care sunt utile în proiectarea constructivă a
produselor vestimentare pentru copii.
Cuvinte-cheie: corelaţii, interdependenţă, testare, analize comparative
Interdependence between anthropometric parameters specific
for the age group 7–10 years
Children’s growth and development is an irregular phenomenon that takes place with different rhythms. Based on
anthropometric data obtained by measuring a sample of 393 children (194 girls and 199 boys) and taking into consideration the algorithm for establishing the interdependencies’ sizes with the same orientation on the body, in the paper
are revealed the relationships selected and useful in constructive design. The data summarized in the tables along with
the correlation coefficients show the veridical results of theoretical and experimental research. The aim of the paper is
to determine the dependencies between different anthropometric sizes and the development of mathematical models in
order to determine the secondary dimensions which characterize as well as possible the body shape. The analysis of
the dependencies is intended for putting the base of the mathematical models established from the regression equations used in the constructivist design of children’ clothing.
Key-words: correlations, interdependency, testing, comparative analysis
T
he researchers from the field of clothing design
show the use of correlations between different
anthropometric sizes, noticing a strong connection
within the parameters of the same orientation, unlike
the dimensions with other orientations [1 – 4].
The aim of the paper is testing the dependencies
among different anthropometrical sizes and the
development of mathematical models for determining
the secondary dimensions of the same orientation,
which could better characterize the body shape.
The anthropometric dimensions necessary for this
study were taken according to SR 5279/2008 specifications, respectively SR ISO 13402-1/2002, by direct
measurement of the body, on a sample of 393 children (194 girls and 199 boys).
Based on the data collected the paper aims to establish interdependency relations between main body
dimensions: body height – Îc, chest perimeter – Pb,
waist perimeter – Pt, hip perimeter – Ps and secondary dimensions – cervical height point – Îcerv,
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waist height – Îlt, hip height – îf, hip fold height –
îpl sf, knee height – îg, corresponding to rectilinear
sizes and back waist length taking into account the
proeminence of the blade bone – LT, front waist
length – Ltf, shoulder length – lu, shoulder to elbow
length – Lbr, arm length – Lm
sup,
trouser length –
Le.m.inf., waist to floor – Lant.T-S, inside upper leg
length – Lint.m.inf., cross back width – ls, chest width –
lb, head perimeter – Pc, neckline perimeter – Ppg,
upper arm perimeter – Pbr, wrist perimeter – Pam,
thigh perimeter – Pcps, knee perimeter – Pg, ankle
perimeter – Pgl corresponding to curved sizes.
The description manner from the body and the positioning of the anthropometric sizes taken into the
study are illustrated in figure 1.
In order to obtain the dependencies between the
anthropometric sizes studied was used the regression and correlation analysis, which is made in 2 steps:
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Another method indicated by the mathematical statistics for coefficient correlation testing is by applying
t test and comparing the results obtained with those
from the literature according to the selection volume,
precision imposed and the number of freedom grade
– t(P, f ). If t > (t(P, f )), according to an imposed probability level, the correlation between the variables is
not random.
For the studied group the researchers from the field
use for the design of children clothing, both simple
but also linear models, and also curved [8, 9].
Choosing the mathematical model to express as better as possible the connection between the analysed
sizes differs in the way the unuseful variables are
eliminated.
In the paper were used simple and multiple regression calculation for the anthropometrical data. The
mathematical models that could better express the
body dimensions for this age group are of the type
[10]:
Fig. 1. Body dimensions measurement
highlighting the existence of the correlation and
also its meaning through correlation parameters;
– determining the mathematical model that expresses in the best way the connection between the
analysed sizes through regression study.
The algorithm is staggered while applying it and the
results obtained are graphically marked, this leading
to the centralized and comparative data useful not
only for body description but also for constructivist
design.
Yi = b0 + b1x1 + b2x2 +…+ bnxn
–
The correlation and regression analysis was made
using specialized software programs SPSS 18 and
Jardel Table Curves 3D, the experimental data base
is followed by symbols included in figure 1.
Before establishing simple and multiple regression
equations, that can reveal as better as possible the
connection between the anthropometric sizes analysed, it is imposed the graphical testing consisting in
an axial system of rectangular coordination for the
experimental pairs of values intended for correlation.
The representation of the points in the graphic is
called “points cloud”. The repartition offers information about the existence of the correlation between
the analysed sizes, the direction and their intensity.
Afterwards was established the correlation coefficients that could express the dependency of the analysed sizes but also testing these coefficients for the
validity of the chosen model.
The signification of the simple correlation coefficients
was tested by reporting it to the signification level p,
that indicates the measure to which we can go wrong
with an affirmation. In practice are often used 2 levels
of significations: level 0.01 (1% error) and level 0.05
(5% error). In practice it is considered an important
statistical test when the level is ≤ 0.05 [5 – 7].
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(1)
Yi = b0 + b1x1
Yi = b0 + b1x1 + b2x2 +
+
b5x12 +…+
bnx nn
b3x 22 +
b4x1x2 +
where:
xi represents the independent variables;
yi – the value of the dependent variable;
b0, b1 … bn – regression equation coefficients.
(2)
(3)
The adequacy of mathematical models was calculated through verifying the significance of determination
coefficient R2 and by using Fisher criteria according
to the relation:
Fcalc =
R2

1 – R2
n–m
m –1
(4)
where:
R2 is the determination coefficient;
m – the number of the parameters from the
regression equation;
n – total number of experimental data;
Ftab – critical value for a selected trust level (according to Fisher criteria).
Using Jardel Table Curves 3D was determined the
value of multiple correlation coefficient for the analyzed types, using the following relation:
Ry, x
1, x2
=
√
∑ i = 1(Ym – Yc)2
1– n
–
∑ i = 1(Ym – Y)2
n
(5)
where:
Ym is dependent measured value;
Yc – dependent calculated value size;
Y – medium value of the dependent size.
For the secondary dimensions that characterize the
body shape were tested the types of correlation with
body height, bust perimeter, waist perimeter, hips
perimeter as independent variables.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
From the analysis of the statistical cloud for all types
comes the conclusion that can be accepted the relation of interdependence of the type:
r=
(6)
y = b0 + b1x
n ∑ xi yi –
∑ xi  ∑ yi where:
r is the absolute value of correlation coefficient calculated with relation (1);
n – total number of measurements.
The calculated correlation for the analyzed dimensions is significant on a level of p = 0.01.
For all the centralized data in table 1 and table 2,
p < 0.05 this meaning that the connection between
the variables is significant under statistical report.
Beside calculating simple correlation coefficients was
made also the calculation of multiple correlations.
Multiple correlations coefficient can be defined as
where:
y is the regression line between the 2 variables (in
the present case between the pairs of anthropometrical sizes established previously);
b1, b0 – the equation coefficients of the regression line.
Before determining the analytical form of the functional dependency it is necessary to verify statistically the supposed linearity of the connection between
the variables xi and yi. Thus in the beginning it will be
calculated the correlation coefficient with the relation:
Table 1
SIMPLE CORELATION COEFFICENTS BETWEEN MAIN DIMENSIONS AND SECONDARY
DIMENSIONS CORRESPONDING FOR GIRLS SAMPLE
Main dimensions
Îc
Pb
Pş
Main dimensions
Îc
1
Îpl.sf
0.917
0.883
0.897
0.703
0.700
0.698
0.668
0.697
0.695
0.697
0.738
Lint.m.inf.
0.619
0.682
0.663
0.663
0.658
Pb
0.694
Pt
0.994
0.703
Pş
Îc
0.678
0.613
0.716
Pş
0.896
0.870
1
1
0.945
lu
0.903
Lant.T-S
0.630
Ltf
0.968
Le.m.inf.
0.975
LT
0.985
Lm.sup.
0.717
ARS
0.989
Lbr.
0.716
Îg
0.994
0.663
Pş
Pb
Îf
0.683
0.930
Main dimensions
0.998
Îlt
Secondary dimensions
0.678
Îc
Pb
Îcerv
0.896
0.659
0.994
0.702
Pbr
0.691
0.851
0.848
0.659
0.644
ls
0.676
lb
0.679
Pc
0.671
0.736
Pft
Pbg
0.986
0.843
0.826
0.470
0.561
0.647
0.697
0.080
0.894
0.600
0.751
0.705
Pam
0.698
0.837
0.822
0.955
Pcps
0.694
0.874
0.955
0.964
Pg
0.767
0.866
0.932
0.616
Pgl
0.713
0.677
0.734
-
0.703
0.774
Table 2
SIMPLE CORRELATION COEFFICIENTS BETWEEN MAIN DIMENSIONS AND SECONDARY
DIMENSIONS CORRESPONDING FOR BOYS SAMPLE
Main dimensions
Îc
Pb
Pş
Main dimensions
Îc
1
0.992
Îf
0.987
Îpl.sf
0.984
Îg
0.982
ARS
0.880
LT
0.899
lu
0.854
0.837
0.671
0.669
0.665
0.689
0.630
0.643
0.613
0.786
Lbr.
Lm.sup.
Le.m.inf.
Lant.T-S
Lint.m.inf.
ls
lb
Pc
Pft
Pbg
0.627
0.659
0.671
0.672
0.686
0.487
Pş
0.449
Pb
0.487
0.973
0.492
Pt
0.496
0.992
0.495
Pş
0.499
0.992
0.497
Pbr
0.499
0.532
0.448
0.463
0.857
0.509
0.636
0.704
0.526
0.786
0.799
0.509
0.633
0.637
Pam
0.928
Pcps
0.937
Pg
0.509
Pgl
0.487
0.718
0.543
0.675
0.698
0.707
0.732
Pş
0.910
1
0.857
0.828
0.635
0.858
0.822
0.486
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0.910
0.917
0.865
190
0.616
0.868
0.672
1
0.429
0.983
Îc
Pb
Ltf
0.674
0.967
Main dimensions
0.998
Îlt
Secondary dimensions
0.672
Îc
Pb
Îcerv
(7)
2
2
2
2
√ [n ∑ xi – (∑ xi ) ] [n ∑ yi – (∑ yi ) ]
0.743
0.899
0.859
0.587
0.667
0.723
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
simple maximum correlation coefficient between the
dependent variable y and a combination of independent variable x [16]. A value of R close to 0 shows an
insignificant connection from a statistical point of view
as while a value close to 1 shows a significant connection. Because the value of R coefficient tends to
underestimate the connection between the variables
y and x is preferred the coefficient R2 – the square
coefficient of multiple correlation.
As in the case of linear regression analysis with only
one independent variable for the multiple regression
analysis the main problem is determining the coefficients b0, b1, b2, ..., bk to minimize the square errors
sum of yi values compared to yi calculated values [4].
The significance of multiple correlation coefficients
for the analysed parameters was determined using t
test. As a result of comparing the values of the test
taken from the literature with the values calculated,
were kept in the relation only the corresponding coefficients for the parameters studied and which have
the inequality t > t(P = 0.95, v = 4) = 1.972.
After applying Fisher test on simple and multiple
mathematical models were kept only the models that
had the inequality Fcalc > Ftab that expresses the con-
nection between the main sizes and the secondary
ones necessary for a complete description of the
body, the best concluding ones being in table 3 and
table 4 for girls sample and boys sample.
Table 3
Tested
type
MATHEMATICAL MODELS FOR GIRLS SAMPLE
Mathematical model
M1
Mathematical model
M2
R2
Rectilinear sizes
Îcerv
Y = 1.040 + 0.827 x1
0.996
Y = 6.947 + 0.823 x1 +
+ (–0.179) x2 + 0.001 x2^2
Îf
Y = 3.989 + 0.426 x1
0.970
Y = (–0.753) + 0.498 x1 + 65.064/ x3
Îlt
Y = –4.952 + 0.658 x1
0.994
R2
Propossed
model
0.996
M1
Y = –4.904 + 0.667 x1 + (–0.019) x2
0.988
M2
0.970
M2
0.977
M2
Y = 12.905 + 0.436 x1 + 0.300 x2 +
+ 0.002 x2^2
0.970
Y = 2.169 + 0.433 x1 + 60.749/ x3
ARS
Y = 1.995 + 0.083 x1 + 0.017 x2
0.823
Y = 2.090 + 0.083 x1 + 0.013 x3
0.821
M1
Ltf
Y = 4.627 + 0.167 x1
0.805
Y = 4.535 + 0.150 x1 + 0.036 x2
0.789
M1
Îpl.sf
Îg
LT
lu
Lbr.
Lm.sup.
Le.m.inf.
Lant.T-S
Lint.m.inf.
Y = –1.181 + 0.298 x1 + 53.196 / x2
Y = 3.453 + 0.182 x1 + 0.033 x2
Y = –1.738 + 0.081 x1
Y = –4.515 + 0.233 x1
Y = –1.985 + 0.363 x1- + 0.012
Y = 0.389 + 0.304 x1 + (–0.020) x3
0.937
Curved sizes
0.846
0.866
0.951
0.987
Y = –4.405 + 0.652 x1
0.988
Y = –0.605 + 0.470 x1 + 68.866 / x2
0.972
Y = –7.696 + 0.660 x1 + 96.683 / x2
0.988
Y = –1.651 + 0.068 x1 + 0.022 x3
Y = –4.605 + 0.246 x1 + (–0.024) x3
Y = –2 + 0.365 x1 + (–0.004) x3
Y = –4.460 + 0.660 x1 + (–0.014) x3
Y = 0.056 + 0.661 x1 +
+ (–0.161) x3m + 0.001 x3^2
Y = –0.444 + 0.470 x1 + 65.786 / x3
Width
ls
Y = 5.003 + 0.345 x2
Pc
Y = 42.703 + 0.153 x2
0.379
Y = 41.563 + 0.016 x1 + 0.136 x2
Pbr
Y = 2.302 + 0.293 x2- + 0.006
0.723
Y = 5.988 + 0.053 x1 + 0.012 x2 +
+ 0.001 x2^2
lb
Pbg
Pam
Pcps
Pg
Pgl
Y = 3.853 + 0.332 x2
Y = 17.192 + 0.194 x2
Y = 3.906 + 0.155 x2
Y = –7.280 + 0.655 x3
Y = 5.959 + 0.341 x3
Y = 8.073 + 0.174 x3
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0.912
Y = –10.952 + 0.407 x1 +
+ (0.0008) x1^2(0.018) x3
0.929
Y = –1.121 + 0.089 x1 + 0.256 x2
Y = –1.290 + 0.074 x1 + 0.257 x2
Perimeters
0.938
0.845
0.823
0.868
0.951
0.987
M2
0.869
Y = 2.050 + 0.057 x1 + 0.287 x3
0.889
191
M1
0.384
0.984
0.732
Y = 5.090 + 0.044 x1 + 0.132 x3
M1
M2
Y = 1.820 + 0.030 x1 + 0.125 x2
0.599
M1
0.982
0.972
0.701
Y = –8.038 + 0.011 x1 + 0.644 x3
M1
M1
0.579
0.748
0.912
M1
0.988
Y = 13.771 + 0.049 x1 + 0.144 x2
0.538
M2
0.912
0.630
M2
M2
M2
M2
M2
M1
M2
M2
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Table 4
MEDIUM VALUE CALCULATED FOR THE MORPHOLOGICAL INDICATORS LT AND ls
AND THE VALUES OBTAINED FROM THE MODELS
Tested
type
LT
ls
the third Pş (x3) for girls and Pt (x4) for boys.
The value
The value
Medium
calculated with calculated with
value
measured the model M1 the model M2
29.65
32.75
29.63
30.01
32.25
32.80
For body description were selected three main dimensions, respectively Îc(x1), Pb (x2) as common ones and
The mathematical models proposed for girls and
boys clothing design are those that assure the best
correspondence between the calculated values and
those measured on the body.
After the analysis of the 2 types of mathematical
models for the girls sample shown in table 5, choosing the appropriate model was made by taking into
account the values of the coefficients of correlation
Table 5
Tested
type
MATHEMATICAL MODELS FOR BOYS SAMPLE
Mathematical model
M1
R2
Mathematical model
M2
R2
Propossed
model
Rectilinear sizes
Îcerv
Y = –1.036 + 0.842 x1
0.997
Y = 0.279 + 0.279 x1 + (–43.756) / x2
0.996
M1
Îf
Y = –1.807 + 0.506 x1
0.974
Y = –1.918 + 0.499 x1 + 0.015 x4
0.974
M1
Îlt
Îpl.sf
Îg
ARS
LT
Ltf
lu
Lbr.
Lm.sup.
Le.m.inf.
Lant.T-S
Lint.m.inf.
ls
lb
Y = –7.516 + 0.669 x1
Y = 0.181 + 0.447 x1 + (–4.923) / x2
Y = –1.917 + 0.303 x1
Y = 4.191 + 0.085 x1 + (–56.202)/ x2
Y = 4.253 + 0.200 x1
Y = 5.732 + 0.167 x1
Y = –1.718 + 0.054 x1 + 0.058 x2
Y = –4.188 + 0.232 x1
0.985
0.968
Y = –7.546 + 0.665 x1 + 0.008 x2
Y = –0.071 + 0.442 x1 + 0.014 x4
0.967 Y = –2.477 + 0.296 x1 + 0.027 x4
Curved sizes
0.778
Y = 2.915 + 0.090 x1 + (–13.386) / x4
0.808
Y = 4.165 + 0.189 x1 + 0.023 x2
0.792
Y = –1.736 + 0.0678 x1 + 0.033 x4
0.730
0.936
M1
Y = –5.730 + 0.655 x1 + (–48.500) / x2
Y = 23.104 + (–1636.371) / x1 +
+ 0.224 x2
0.970
0.972
Y = –16.086 + 0.790 x1 +
+ (–0.0004) x^2 + 0.014 x4
Y = –3.363 + 0.474 x1 + 0.038 x4
Width
Y = –1.534 + 0.151 x1 + 0.143 x4
Y = –1.799 + 0.139 x1 + 0.142 x4
Perimeters
Pc
Y = 63.586 + (-0.313) x1 +
+ 0.001 x1^2 + 0.087 x2
0.315
Y = 53.494 + (–0.159) x1 +
+ 0.0008 x1^2 + 0.083 x4
Pbr
Y = –3.777 + 0. 386 x2
0.749
Y = 22.094 + (–0.016) x1 +
+ (–0.353)y x2 + (0.005)y^ x2
Pbg
Pam
Pcps
Pg
Pgl
Y = 12.053 + 0.073 x1 + 0.125 x2
Y = –1.342 + 0.052 x1 + 0.130 x2
Y = –8.039 + (–0.137) x1 +
+ 0.0009 x1^2 + 0.739 x2
Y = 23.670 + 0.090 x1 +
+ (–0.518) x2 + 0.006 x2^2
Y = –3.951 + 0.154 x1+ 0.064 x2
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0.609
0.608
0.824
0.777
0.552
M2
0.936
0.985
Y = –1.349 + 0.106 x1 + 0.224 x2
0.811
M1
Y = –6.13 + 0.238 x1 + 64.632 / x2
Y = –7.227 + 0.661 x1
0.968
0.775
M1
M2
0.947
Y = –3.221 + 0.473 x1 + 0.035 x2
0.967
M2
0.732
Y = –2.944 + 0.368 x1 + 0.005 x2
0.985
0.969
M1
Y = 5.655 + 0.157 x1 + 0.020 x2
Y = –2.922 + 0.371 x1- + 0.001
Y = –7.296 + 0.666 x1
0.985
Y = 11.884 + 0.095 x1 + 0.089 x4
0.757
0.946
0.985
0.984
0.969
M1
M2
0.350
M2
0.925
0.608
0.750
Y = –45.588 + 0.741 x1 +
+ (–0.002) x1^2 + 0.290 x4
0.802
192
M1
M1
0.578
Y = –4.089 + 0.162 x1 + 0.053 x4
M1
0.926
Y = –1.452 + 0.079 x1 + 0.083 x4
Y = –25.522 + 0.232 x1 + 0.542 x4
M1
0.838
0.557
M1
M1
M2
M2
M2
M2
M2
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
a
b
a
b
and the distribution of calculated values through the
2 methods of direct body measurement, in figure 2
being presented the testing examples for the 2 secondary dimensions – the back length to the waist and
the back width.
Choosing the models for boys sample was made
from the same principle as girls selection, figure 3
and table 6 being concluding in this way for secondary dimensions respectively waist line height and
arm length.
The mathematical models obtained can be used for
determining secondary dimensions if the main ones
are known, thus becoming primary relations for the
pattern segments in which can be added different
specific things(the type of product to be crested, the
material used, the wearers group).
Both the mathematical models obtained through simple regression analysis and also those obtained
through curved multiple regression can represent
work instruments in the revision activity for the rules
applied for constructivist design on children’ clothing.
Fig. 2. The distribution of calculated values with the measured values for LT and ls based on the models obtained
Fig. 3. The distribution of calculated values with those measured for Ilt and Lm.sup based on the obtained models
Table 6
THE CALCULATED MEDIUM VALUE FOR MORPHOLOGICAL INDICATORS Îlt AND Lm.sup
AND THE VALUES OBTAINED FROM THE MODELS
Tested
type
Îlt
Lm.sup.
The value
The value
Medium
calculated with calculated with
value
measured the model M1 the model M2
80.65
45.96
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80.58
45.93
80.53
45.83
CONCLUSIONS
Based on the experimental results presented in the
paper and also based on the bibliographical materials consulted can be presented the following conclusions:
– using the statistical modelling programs SPSS 18
and Jardel Table Curves 3D were obtained the
mathematical models of 2 types, represented
graphically and afterwards centralized in tables;
– was imposed testing those models, the results
being compared with the values obtained by
anthropometrical measurements, selecting in
these conditions the mathematical model that
can be used in constructivist design for base patterns for products with shoulder support and
products with waist support;
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
–
–
–
based on regression equations can be established medium values for secondary parameters
but following main anthropometrical parameters;
the values obtained from the statistical work can
be included in the existent design relations;
establishing the optimal number of subjects, the
regression relation obtained for the studied group
can become the base for new rules and anthropometrical standards, the existent ones having
–
the need for corrections because of the phenomenon called “secular growth”;
for obtaining interdependence relations between
the anthropometric dimensions with the same
orientation it is necessary making a experimental data base specific for the studied age group
and also based on the specifications of the
anthropometric standards.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
[1] Bălan, S., Mitu, S. Prelucrarea statistică unidimensională a parametrilor antropometrici principali pentru femei,
grupa de vârstă 18-29 ani. Al II-lea Simpozion Internaţional Universitar, Editura Tehnică a Moldovei, Chişinău,
1997, p. 32, ISBN 9975-910-18-1
[2] Niculescu, C., Săliștean, A., Olaru, S. Anthropometric parameters of children in Romania, result of the anthropometric survey carried out in 2010-2011. In: Industria Textilă, 2012, vol. 63, nr. 1, p. 176-182
[3] Ciocoiu, M. Bazele statistico – matematice ale analizei şi controlului calităţii în industria textilă. Editura
Performantica, Iaşi, 2002, ISBN 973-8075-31-9
[4] Dabija, A. Cercetări privind particularităţile constructiv tehnologice ale echipamentelor de protecţie destinate operatorilor care deservesc utilităţi publice din Republica Moldova. Teză de doctorat, 2011
[5] Clocotici, V. Introducere în statistică multivariată. Universitatea „Al. I. Cuza”, 2007
[6] Landau, S., Everit, B. S. A handbook of statistical analzses using SPSS. Chapman & Hall/CRC Press LLC, 2004,
ISBN 1-58488-369-3
[7] Griffith, A. SPSS for Dummies. Published 2007, ISBN: 978-0-470-11344-8
[8] Vouyouka, A. A. Comprehensive pattern making guide book suitable for use with any pattern making method.
Publications AB, 2001, ISBN 960-8430-34-8
[9] Winifred, Aldrich. Metric pattern cutting for children’s wear and babywear. Published 2009, ISBN-13: 9781405182928
[10] Avădanei, M. Contribuţii teoretice şi experimentale privind utilizarea datelor antropometrice în proiectarea
produselor vestimentare. Teză de doctorat, Universitatea Tehnică „Gheorghe Asachi” – Iași, 2001
Authors:
Drd. ing. ANA VÎRCAN
Drd. ing. SAVIN DORIN IONESI
Prof. dr. ing. STAN MITU
Drd. ing. ALA DABIJA
Drd. ing. LAVINIA CAPMARE
Universitatea Tehnică “Gheorghe Asachi” Iași
Facultatea de Textile, Pielărie și Management Industrial
Bd. D. Mangeron nr. 53, Iaşi
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
HONGXIA JIANG
JIHONG LIU
RURU PAN
WEIDONG GAO
HONGFU WANG
Autogenerarea unei imagini color pe materiale textile, cu ajutorul FFT
A fost studiată o metodă de autogenerare a unei imagini color, folosind transformata Fourier rapidă (FFT). În acest scop,
s-a elaborat un program de autogenerare a unor imagini color rafinate, într-un număr foarte mare de variante. Au fost
proiectate probe ale imaginilor analizate, prin generarea de modele digitale din puncte. Procesul de autogenerare a
culorilor s-a realizat în patru etape: dimensionarea imaginii, crearea șablonului de bază, alegerea culorii modelului și
conversia imaginii la modelul de culoare dorit. Au fost analizate trei dintre cele mai simple modele de bază, precum și
combinații ale acestora. În cadrul acestei cercetări, a fost adoptat modelul de culoare HSV. Pentru proiectarea imaginii,
în cadrul acestui studiu, au fost luați în considerare trei parametri importanți, inclusiv H, S și V. Rezultatele au arătat că
imaginile reprezintă o combinație a patru proprietăți. Dimensiunea și culoarea imaginii pot fi controlate în funcție de
cerința designerului. În cadrul acestui studiu, imaginile au fost transferate pe materialele textile, folosind un program ce
conține imaginea virtuală a unui mobilier. Rezultatele au arătat că designerul textil are acces direct la imaginile create.
Aceste imagini pot fi folosite pentru proiectarea imaginii pe elemente textile, de exemplu pe mobilierul textil.
Cuvinte-cheie: elemente de design, textile digitale, creare de modele, imagini color, mobilier virtual
An auto-generation method of color image was researched based on the fast Fourier transform theory. We developed
a program to auto-generate abundant exquisite color images. Samples of images, using patterns of points, were
designed. The auto-generation color processing can be divided into the four steps: giving the image size, drawing basic
pattern, giving the color pattern and transforming color image. The simplest basic patterns and their combinations were
analyzed. HSV color model was adapted in the research. Three important parameters, including H, S and V, were considered in this research for image design. The results showed that the images have the properties of alliance quartet.
The size and color of image element can be controlled according to requirement of designer. In the present research
the images were transformed to textiles by virtual furniture software. The results also showed that the images can be
used for textile designer directly. The application of the images was also discussed for the elements for textile image
design such as furniture textile.
Key-words: design elements, digital textile, pattern design, color image, virtual furniture
I
mage making is a kind of artwork, it is time-consuming and difficult for engineering. To solve the
problem, an image making method by dots of
monochrome was researched. As a result of conducting factor analysis about the product of original
images, the relation between the design condition
and the image of the design can be clarified and the
basic data of the image making for the textile designer were able to be obtained [1]. The application of
moiré patterns to clothes was examined. The patterns were made by pilling up the same two figures of
color dots arranged at points of intersection of square
fretwork. The number of patterns became innumerable by changing a rotation angle between the two
figures [2]. Bye briefly introduced some of the history
and main concepts of the design discipline and
design research. He presents a framework for design
scholarship to initiate a discussion about research,
and suggested ways to contribute to the larger academic dialogue on forming a design discipline [3].
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The effects of indirect training, provided by apparel
design and product development courses on spatial
visualization skills, were examined [4]. The images
were introduced into CAD systems and its adjustment to the technical and aesthetic limitations of the
printing industry. Gray-scale image analysis was
applied to the characterization of textural patterns of
29 kinds of lace.
Factor analysis showed beauty to be related to the
entropy and fractal dimension, transparency and light
sensation to the angular second moment, contrast,
thickness and weight, as well as lacunarity to the
number of voids and mean void size [5].
Recently many art works based on mathematics,
were studied [6]. The generation of an image originating from the mapping has been proposed [7]. A
complete design process, beginning with a design
from the mathematical perception of fractal geometry,
was introduced [8]. A parameterized program to generate various uniform stochastic web images was
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
developed based on a kind of nonlinear scientific technology-weak chaos. It is in favor of perfecting digital
textile technology. Methods of transforming mapping
function to obtain abundant colorful digital images for
ink-jet printing were proposed [9]. Image processing
has been used in analyzing the textile widely [10–13].
With the development of computer science and technology, nonlinear science, including fractal geometry,
chaos and other important branches, provides us
with a new resource of pattern design [5].
In this paper, an auto-generation method of color
image was researched. Because of the color sense
with a sense of expansion and contraction, we use
the HSV model to illustrate algorithm in the research
in order to show the real Fourier transform automatically generated patterns internal fine structure.
Based on the fast Fourier transform (FFT) theory, we
developed a program to auto-generate abundant
exquisite color images. Samples of images, using patterns of points and their combinations, were designed.
Using the techniques of computer-aided textile
design, an artwork is created on a pure mathematical
basis as a result.
HSV model
The RGB coordinate system reproduces a color by
combining the three primary colors, including red,
green and blue as shown in figure 1. HSV model was
developed in the 1970s for computer graphics applications, and is used for color pickers, in color-modification tools in image editing software. HSV stands for
hue, saturation, and value, respectively. HSV model
is the most common cylindrical-coordinate representations of points in an RGB color model, which rearrange the geometry of RGB in an attempt to be more
intuitive and perceptually relevant than the cartesian
(cube) representation [15–16].
THEORY OF GENERATING IMAGES BY FFT
Basic theory of FFT
FFT was used to design virtual woven fabric [14].
Express the gray level of an image of width X  height
Y as a two dimensional function f(x, y), where x = 0,
1, 2,…, X – 1, and y = 0, 1, 2,…, Y – 1, are the sampled points in the spatial coordinates. The discrete
Fourier transform (DFT) of f(x, y) is written as
following equation (1):
F(k,l) = ∑
∑
X–1 Y–1
x = 0 y = 0
( xkX
yl
Y
– j 2 p + f(x,y) e )
(1)
where:
k = 0, 1, 2, …, X – 1, and l = 0, 1, 2, …, Y – 1, are
the sampled points in the frequency coordinates.
In turn, the relationship of inverse discrete Fourier
transform (IDFT) allows us to recover the image from
the frequency. In practice, FFT algorithm is used to
substitute the DFT for increasing the speed of calculation. FFT returns the DFT of pattern. In the same
way, inverse fast Fourier transform (IFFT) algorithm
is used to substitute the IDFT for increasing the speed
of calculation. IFFT returns the IDFT of pattern.
DFT and IDFT are powerful computational tools for
performing frequency analysis of image processing.
The DFT transforms time- or space-based data into
frequency-based data. DFT has been widely used in
assessing and monitoring weaving density, detecting
defect of non-woven fabric, acquisition parameters of
fabric, and so on. When using the FFT to generate
the color image, one can draw points, lines or geometrical shapes on a picture accurately. The pictures
are called as basic pattern. Then a new geometrical
pattern can be generated by discrete Fourier transform (DFT) or inverse DFT (IDFT). The patterns are
called as color image, which are the result of design.
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Fig. 1. RGB coordinate system
In HSV cylinder, the angle around the central vertical
axis corresponds to “hue”, the distance from the axis
corresponds to “saturation”, and the distance along
the axis corresponds to value. Note that hue
H  [0°, 360°], saturation S  [0.0, 1.0], and value
V  [0.0, 1.0] [17]. Each unique RGB device has
unique HSV spaces to accompany it, and numerical
HSV values describe a different color for each basis
RGB space. The color spaces are related to human’s
concept of tint, shade and tone [18, 19]. The space in
which hue, saturation and value are represented can
be described with a cone as shown in figure 2.
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Fig. 2. HSV coordinate system
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Converting to RGB
The transformation from HSV to RGB is a non-linear
operation. Figure 3 gives a graphical representation
of RGB coordinates transforming from HSV coordinates. According to the figure, the transformation
from HSV to RGB color space is accomplished
through the following steps.
Fig. 3. Relationship of RGB and HSV coordinates
First, the H value in HSV model was divided into six
segments and calculated the integral part i and factorial part f by:
i = integral H 60
( )
– integral ( H
f= H
60
60 )
(2)
n=1–Sf
(5)
(3)
In the equations (2) and (3), integral means to get the
integral part from the result of algebraic division.
Therefore, i is belong to a integer set {0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5},
f  [0, 1). Next the intermediate value t, n, p were
introduced:
t=1–S
(4)
p = 1 – S  (1 – f )
Then, R1, G1, and B1 can be
value:
(1, p, t)
(n, 1, t)
(t, 1, p)
(R1, G1, B1) =
(t, n, 1)
(p, t, 1)
(1, t, n)
(6)
calculated by matching
if i = 0;
if i = 1;
if i = 2;
if i = 3;
if i = 4;
if i = 5.
(7)
Finally, R, G, and B can be calculated by multiplying
value by a given value:
(R, G, B) = (V  R1, V  G1, V  B1)
(8)
Auto-generation steps
To describe the auto-generation color image process
for textile products, figure 4 gives main procedure
flow chart of auto-generation system. The auto-generation process can be divided into the four steps:
defining the image size, drawing basic pattern, giving
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Fig. 4. Flow chart of auto-generation system
color pattern and calculating color image. The
designer will design from the first step to the third
step. The fourth step is calculated by FFT. After these
steps, the application software can be used for the
color image.
Giving the size of image
The image size for design, including width ww and
height hh, was defined at first. In our examples of
design, both ww and hh of the pattern were set simply to 256 pixels. All of the elements in the image construct a matrix. Then the data in all of the elements
were set to zero and the matrix became a kind of
zero matrixes. If the matrix element is 0, the pixel is
black, if the matrix element is 1, the pixel is white.
Therefore, all of pixels in the pattern were initialized
as black dots and the image became a black image.
Drawing basic pattern
In order to construct a fully and balanced demonstrate the patterns; the center of the picture must be
the drawing center according to the theory of FFT.
Coordinates of center (cw, ch) can be determined
and the coordinates were equal to (ww/2, hh/2). The
designers paint a few simple points, lines signal in
the first quadrant.
Giving the color pattern
First, the number of color is defined according to
requirement of designer. Next, the data of HSV color
pattern are designed to human’s concept of tint,
shade and tone. Then the HSV color pattern is converted to RGB color pattern. For an example, figure 5
shows a result of color pattern. There are eight kinds
of color. A black rectangle was drawn around each
color in the color pattern for distinguishing the color
easily. The color pattern is designed by designer. The
designer can select the number of color and each
color in color pattern. The corresponding data for
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Fig. 5. Color pattern
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
PHSV DATA OF COLOR PATTERN
IN FIGURE 5
H
32
64
96
128
160
192
224
255
S
0.125
0.250
0.375
0.500
0.625
0.750
0.875
1.000
RGB DATA OF COLOR PATTERN
IN FIGURE 5
R
0.525
0.481
0.359
0.300
0.234
0.406
0.675
0.700
G
0.507
0.550
0.575
0.600
0.332
0.163
0.084
0.000
Table 1
Fig. 6. Effective grayed amplitude width
V
0.525
0.550
0.575
0.600
0.625
0.650
0.675
0.700
Table 2
B
0.460
0.413
0.413
0.600
0.625
0.650
0.527
0.000
calculation can be acquired. The data of HSV color
pattern in figure 5 are listed in table 1. The data of
RGB color pattern, calculated by equations (7) and
(8), from table 1, are listed in table 2.
Transforming color image by FFT
The software, designed for generating FFT images,
recognizes the patterns as an image data, then converts the image data to a matrix and each matrix element represents an image pixel. By the algorithm of
FFT, the point of the pattern is transformed into additive sinusoidal signal. The signal is transformed
according to the position and gray of the point. The
period cycle is decided by the position and the amplitude is decided by the gray of the point. After that the
result was made from logarithmic transformation, and
re-defined as a matrix. At this step, the type of data is
double type. That means infinite number of grades for
the data. Then each HSV is corresponding to a range
of the result for reducing the number of grade of
the result as shown in figure 6. The result of FFT has
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256 gray grades. In fact, the designer wants to get
lesser grades, e.g. eight kinds of grades. Since the
gray grades can not satisfy the demand of designer,
a cluster algorithm must be applied to generate an
optimal threshold value of HSV color pattern. As
results, eight kinds of colors are produced in the color
pattern. These colors are corresponding to color pattern in figure 5. At last a restored pattern was produced as shown in figure 7.
Fig. 7. Restored pattern
EXPERIMENTAL SETUP
The Matlab 2009 was used as the software tool to
develop the system of auto-generation color image
for textile products, and the CPU of the computer
used in the experiment is P8600 3.00GHz and 2G
DDRIII memory.
EXPERIMENTAL RESULTS OF BASIC IMAGE
Transform from circle
Figure 8 shows a circle and transformed result. The
pattern can be produced as following. First, a zero
matrix was defined. Both of the column (ww) and row
(hh) of the pattern are set to 256 pixels. Because the
coordinates of center (cw, ch) is equal to (ww/2,
hh/2), cw can be calculated and is equal to 128, and
ch can also be calculated and is equal to 128.
Secondly, a circle was drawn in the center of the picture as shown in figure 8 a. Center of the circle overlapped the coordinates of center of the matrix. The
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
a
b
a
b
Fig. 8. Circle and transformed result:
a – circle; b – transformed result
a
b
a
b
Fig. 10. Combination of basic patterns:
a – combination of circle and points; b – mirror image of a
Fig. 9. Geometrical patterns transformed from four points:
a – circle; b – basic pattern with d = 2 and mirror
image of a
Fig. 11. Geometrical transform of basic images:
a – geometrical transform of circle and points;
b – mirror image of a
radius r was set to be 10. That means if the distance
between the center of matrix and the element was
less than or equal to the radius 10, then the element
of the matrix was set to be 1. Otherwise, if the distance between the center of matrix and the element
was more than the radius 10, then the element was
set to be 0. Third, a gray pattern was generated by
FFT as shown in figure 8 b.
color pattern as shown in figure 5 was selected. After
FFT, a color image was generated as shown in figure
10 b.
Transform from point
A basic patterns transformed from four points, based
on FFT as shown in figure 9, was designed. The distance d between the point and the center of matrix
was 10. In the figure 9, the sizes of the points were
enlarged for viewing easily. According to the design
size of pattern, ww and hh were set as 256  256 pixels, respectively. The color pattern as shown in figure
5 was selected. Figure 9 b was FFT results of figure
9 a.
DISCUSSIONS
Auto-generation for complex color image
Combination of basic images
The complex pattern can be produced by combination of basic images. A combination pattern of circle
and points as shown in figure 10 a can be generated
the mirror image as shown in figure 10 b. The radius
of the circle r was 10. And there were four points in
the basic pattern. The distances d between the point
and the center of matrix were 10, 20 and 40. The
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Geometrical transform of images
The complex pattern can also be produced by geometrical transform of basic images. A geometrical
transform of circle and points as shown in figure 11 a
can be generated a color image as shown in figure 11 b.
The parameters of figure 11 a and figure 10 a were
the same. The radius of the circle was 10. The distances d between the point and the center of matrix
were 10, 20 and 40. The pattern rotates 45 degrees
anti-clockwise based on the basic pattern. After FFT,
a color image was generated as shown in figure 11 b.
From the figure 11, we can find that the result also
rotates at a corresponding angle.
Features of auto-generation color images
Auto-generation color images for textile products
based on FFT are different from the traditional design
works that are made from computer graphics software such as Photoshop, CorelDraw, CAD and other
design software. The auto-generation color images
are new kinds of graphics which can not be replaced
by other software. The auto-generation color images
are based on rigorous science in a number of internal
information according to certain rules and methods,
transforming data involved or the mathematical
model into visible graphics. The method demonstrated fully the complex structure of the digital science in
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
a
b
c
d
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Fig. 12. Larger images constructed by basic images
Fig. 13. Geometrical transform of basic images:
a, c, e, g – geometrical transform of points; b, d, f, h – mirror image of a, c, e, g;
a, b – distance 1; c, d – distance 2; e, f – distance 3; f, h – distance 4
its own way. The method also digs out the deep
beauty which the human can not see before and from
the “invisible” world. The generated images of this
research have the following characteristics.
Patterns associated with alliance quartet features
Alliance quartet features are based on units of patterns starting continuously around left and right (horizontal), up and down (vertical) and all other directions.
Design of the product for textile with alliance quartet
features can be extended freely from the four sides of
the pattern, and the symbols are continuous. The balance, harmony and rhythm of the formal beauty of
the patterns can be reflected by using the methods of
alliance quartet. Patterns associated with the quartet
characteristic have a strong regularity. The four mirror images can construct in advanced larger images
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as shown in figure 12 a. The images in figures 12 c
and d were minified 1/4 and 1/8, respectively for easy
comparison. The main feature of the images was
using unit image for composition through continuous
order in effect. The image gave a regular and consistent feel. The images had the properties of balance
and unity. The image can also be divided into four
regions as shown in figures 12 b, c and d.
The change effects of the four consecutive images
are extremely rich. They are common image art
works for people on the clothing and textile.
The size of pattern element can be controlled
The size of pattern element is inversely proportional
to the mid-point line of the original lattice. According
to the needs of design, it is quite easy to adjust the
pattern primitives. Through the scientific visualization
methods, FFT automatically generated images. The
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
images display the information of the nature which
cannot be described with the traditional language in
a more intuitive way. Compared with traditional patterns, FFT automatically generates pattern structure
which is extremely complex, because it has unlimited
fine graphic details. With sets of image layers,
numerous and varied, both in small-scale and multiperspective, they are more subtle than the structure
of traditional human hand-drawn by the hard, and
they look very attractive visually. Point, line, surface
of right and wrong change, thickness contrast, the
relationship among the density of the composition
factors have great impact on the pattern-style. As
long as one or more parameters were adjusted in the
pattern, the different styles of the image will be generated.
Figures 13 b, d, f and h are color images of points in
figure 13 a, c, e, g. The color images were transformed from source patterns by FFT. The variable is
the number and position of points around the center
of pattern. These points built a cross-shaped. There
are 2 points in four directions including left, right,
above or below the center of pattern as shown in figure 13 a, respectively. There are five points in figure
13 c, e, g in turn and the distance between points and
the center is changed 1, 2, 4 and 8. These points also
constructed a cross-shaped. Although there were significantly different structures and styles in four patterns, we can find the value of number of points
increased in source patterns, and the size of grain of
mirror images decreased accordingly.
Pattern with color control
Generated patterns can be controlled freely using the
HSV model. The patterns can be divided into gray
and color image. The gray image can be generated
by setting the S be zero and setting different value for
V in the in the HSV model. For an example, figure 14
shows a result of gray pattern. There are eight kinds
of gray. A black rectangle was drawn around each
gray in the pattern for easy distinguishing of the gray.
After that the result was made logarithmic transformation, and re-defined as a matrix. Then an effective
HSV was applied for reducing the grade of the result
as shown in figure 15. The color image can be generated by selecting different H and same value for S
and V and in the in the HSV model. For an example,
a
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Fig. 14. Gray pattern
Fig. 15. Color image from gray pattern
Fig. 16. Color image (H is parameter)
figure 16 shows a result of color image. There are
eight H values in the image including 10, 19, 29, 38,
48, 57, 67 and 77, respectively. The S is set to 0.5
and the V is set to 0.8.
In figure 17, S is set to be 0.125, 0.250, 0.375, 0.500,
0.625, 0.750, 0.875 and 1, respectively. The V is 0.8.
In figures 17 a to d, the H is changed, and they are
0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8, respectively.
Application of the pattern
The pattern in the specific culture conveys a special
meaning. Meanwhile, there were solo properties
b
c
Fig. 17. Color pattern for different H (S is parameter)
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
a
a
b
c
d
b
c
d
Fig. 18. Virtual textile products of auto-generation monochrome image
Fig. 19. Virtual textile products of auto-generation monochrome image
when the auto-generation color images by FFT theory were applied in textiles. There were many kinds of
ways to experience the color images in textile, such
as printing by digital ink-jet printers, weaving by electronic jacquard machines, and so on. In the present
work, we transfer the patterns of design to fabrics
by virtual furniture software. After the patterns are
designed, they are transferred to textiles products,
thanks to the development virtual furniture software
by Jiangnan University. Figures 18 a to d, show the
samples of virtual furniture textiles with the patterns
shown in figure 13 b, d, f and h, respectively. Figures
19 a to d, show the samples of virtual furniture textiles with the patterns shown in figures 17 a to d,
respectively. From the figures, we can feel the preliminary effect of design. Although the images were
new kinds of art forms, in terms of the visual level,
there were no clear boundaries between the autogeneration color images by FFT and traditional geometric images. They can also be used in all kinds of
textile as art work. The auto-generation color images
by FFT reflect only different modern sense of beauty
from traditional geometric images.
CONCLUSIONS
A program was developed to auto-generate abundant exquisite color images using the FFT theory in
the research. Samples of images, using simplest pat-
terns and their combinations, were designed. The
auto-generation color process can be divided into the
four steps: giving the image size, drawing basic pattern, giving the color pattern and transforming color
image. HSV color model was adapted in the research.
Three important parameters, including H, S and V,
were considered in this research for image design.
The results showed that the images have the properties of alliance quartet. The size and color of image
element can be controlled according to requirement
of designer. In the present research the images were
transformed to textiles by virtual furniture software.
The results also showed that the images can be used
by textile designer directly. The application of the
images for textile image design was also discussed
for the elements for textile image design such as
furniture textile. The results also showed that the
images can also be used in all kinds of textile as art
work. The auto-generation color images by FFT just
reflect different modern sense of beauty from traditional geometric images.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The authors were grateful for the financial support by the
Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities
of Jiangnan University (JUSRP211A51), the open project
progran of key laboratory of ECO-Textiles (Jiangnan
University), ministry of education, China (NO. KLET 1113,
NO. KLET 1114).
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Authors:
Chief of works dr. eng. HONGXIA JIANG
Conf. dr. eng. JIHONG LIU
Conf. dr. eng. RURU PAN
Conf. dr. eng. WEIDONG GAO
Conf. dr. eng. HONGFU WANG
Jiangnan University
1800 LiHu Road, Wuxi, 214122 China
e-mail: [email protected]; [email protected]
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Improving cotton textile materials properties by treating with
chitosan and metallic salts
ABRAMIUC DANKO
SIMONA DUNCA
CRIȘAN POPESCU
AUGUSTIN MUREȘAN
Îmbunătățirea proprietăților materialelor textile din bumbac, prin tratarea cu chitosan și
săruri metalice
Lucrarea analizează posibilitatea îmbunătăţirii caracteristicilor de rezistență a vopsirii materialelor textile din bumbac,
imprimate cu coloranţi reactivi. În urma folosirii mai multor variante de tratare, s-a constatat că utilizarea chitosanului şi
a sulfatului de cupru posedă un potenţial crescut de funcționalizare a materialelor și mărește absorbția colorantului
reactiv în fibră, astfel că apele uzate rezultate sunt mai puțin colorate. Rezultatele finale au arătat că, datorită prezenţei
ionilor de cupru şi chitosanului, odată cu îmbunătăţirea capacităţii de vopsire s-au obţinut şi efecte antibacteriene.
Cuvinte-cheie: bumbac, coloranţi reactivi, chitosan, sulfat de cupru, parametri cromatici, efect antimicrobian
Improving cotton textile materials properties by treating with chitosan and metallic salts
The paper investigates the possibility to enhance the dyeing characteristics of cotton fabrics dyed with reactive dyes.
Several variants have been tried and the results indicate that the treatment with both chitosan and copper sulphate present the most potential for functionalizing the fabrics, enhancing the dye absorption into the fabric, thus resulting less
coloured waste water. The final results suggests that together with the enhancement of the dyeing capacity it was also
obtained antibacterial effect due to the presence of copper ions and chitosan.
Key-words: cotton, reactive dyes, chitosan, copper sulphate, chromatic parameters, antimicrobial effect
C
ellulosic fibres are widely used for apparel industry and the most demanded class of dyes
required for colouring them is those of reactive dyes.
As a consequence numerous studies are concerned
with the improvement of the dyeing performances
achievable with this class of dyes. Reactive dyes are
largely used because of their bright shades and high
fastness to wet treatments. There are, however, many
drawbacks which need addressed for improving further the dyeing process. Among them there are problems raised by the large amount of electrolytes
required for dyeing, and sometime by the low yield of
the reaction of dye with the fibre, which leads to the
loss of unfixed dye from the fabric in effluents and
produces a waste of resources [1–7].
Micro-organisms are often found on natural polymer
fibres like cellulose because due to their natural
retention of water, oxygen and other nutrient sources
(salts, amino acids, carboxylic acids from sweat, skin
fat and dead cells) that provide the medium for cells
growing. The consequences of contamination of textile materials with microorganisms are: the bad odour
(from essential metabolic processes of bacteria), the
colour fading, the mould spots and the loss of functional proprieties. The degradation action of fungi and
bacteria for cellulosic fabrics is a major inconvenient
for using these fibres in products like: camping articles,
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canvas, filters, textiles for fishing industry, furniture
fabrics, textiles for decoration etc.
Chitosan has been found as a promising natural
alternative to overcome the problems of micro-organism growing. It is not yet well documented how chitosan attacks the bacteria cell, but there are presumptions that positive charged primary amino
groups interact with negative charged residues found
on the surface of the bacteria cell. This interaction
changes the surface of the organism cell by blocking
air permeability and leads in cell death. The antimicrobial effects together with the non-toxicity, biodegradation, and biocompatibility grant chitosan to
be used in different fields like agriculture, medicine,
pharmacy, and textile industry.
The use of chitosan has been studied for improving
both the dyeing capacity and the antimicrobial activity against microorganism and fungi found on textile
materials. Some heavy metal salts are also known for
having antimicrobial properties against a large spectrum of gram positive and gram negative bacteria, as
well as against some fungi (mould and yeast) [8–12].
The aim of this paper is to look after a treatment combining chitosan and heavy metal salts for improving
the dyeing capacity, increasing the crease recovery
and providing antimicrobial properties to cellulosic
based textile materials.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
EXPERIMENTAL PART
Treatment variants
Clean and bleached samples of cotton fabrics were
treated with solutions of CuSO4 and chitosan,
respectively, then dyed using reactive dye C.I.
Reactive Violet 5R (1), in different variants.
(1)
Variant 1. Samples were dyed with C.I. Reactive
Violet 5R dye in the following conditions: 2.5% dye,
5 g/L Na2CO3, 50 g/L Na2SO4, 1 mL/L NaOH of
38°Be, LR = 30:1 for 60 minutes at 70°C. After dyeing, samples were washed in cold water and dried at
60°C. One set of dyed fabrics were impregnated with CuSO4 solution of 10, 20, 30, 40 g/L,
respectively, padded with a squeeze out
degree of 100%, rolled and stored covered in
a protective foil for 24 hours at room temperature. After storage the samples were dried
for 20 minutes at 60°C.
Variant 2. Another sample set dyed according
to variant 1 was impregnated with chitosan
solution of 6, 8 and, respectively, 10 g/L
padded with squeeze out degree of 100%,
dried, and thermally treated at 150°C for 4
minutes.
Variant 3. Samples were impregnated with
CuSO4 solution of 10, 20, 30 and, respectively, 40 g/L padded with squeeze out degree of
100%, dried for 20 minutes at 60°C, thoroughly washed in distilled water and then
dyed under the following conditions: impregnation in solution containing 8 g/L dye, 50 g/L
urea and 20 g/L Na2CO3, padded with
squeeze out degree of 100%, impregnation in
10 g/L chitosan solution, dried and thermal
treatment at 150°C for 4 minutes. All samples
treated according to any of the 3 variants
were washed for 20 minutes at 90°C in 0.5 g/L
Cotoblanc NSR solution, rinsed in warm, then
in cold water.
Measurements
For treated and untreated samples the following properties were measured: chromatic
parameters, dyeing intensity K/S, colour
difference ∆E CIELAB, dyeing fastness to
washing and rubbing, material handle, crease
recovery angle and the antimicrobial effect.
Colour intensity K/S and colour difference ∆E
were calculated by using Micromatch 2000®
software after measuring chromatic parameters with the Spectroflash 300 Datacolor
device [13]. Dyeing fastness to washing, rubbing and perspiration were determined
according to standards [14, 15].
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The treatment modifies the handle, therefore we
measured the stiffness of the treated and untreated
samples. The method consists in measuring the free
bending length (cm) of the fabric under its own
weight, in an 45° angle [16].
A SEM Quanta 200 3D Dual Beam electron microscope equipped with an EDAX analysis system
Edax-Ametek Holland was used to analyse the surface of the treated materials. Characterization was
performed in Low Vacuum mode, electron acceleration 10 kV, Secondary electrons imaging (SE) mode.
Evaluation of antibacterial activity for the treated
samples was tested in vitro, using Kirby-Bauer
method [17, 18].
The results on the chromatic parameters are shown
in the figures 1 – 3. The results show that the colour
a
b
a
b
a
b
Fig. 1. Influence of copper sulphate concentration on:
a – colour strength, K/S; b – colour difference, ΔE
Fig. 2. Influence of chitosan concentration on:
Fig. 3. Influence of copper sulphate and chitosan (10 g/L)
concentrations on:
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
intensity increases for the samples treated with copper sulphate and chitosan. Significant changes in
colour intensity between the treated and untreated
samples can be seen for the treatment variant 3.
The results measured for dyeing fastness to washing
and rubbing are shown in the tables 1 – 3 below. One
may notice from these results that the fastness to
washing and the fastness to dry rubbing keep the
same value at treated and at the reference (only dyed
fabric) samples. Fastness to wet rubbing decreases
when cotton is treated with CuSO4 and chitosan.
Best results to perspiration fastness were obtained
for treatment variant 3 followed by variant 1 and then
variant 2. For all fastness the lowest values has been
obtained for the treatment variant 3. A possible explanation of this could be the formation of a dye –
CuSO4 – chitosan complex on the fibre surface.
Fabric handle
The results of measuring the fabric handle are presented in figure 4. Figure 4 c indicates that the highest
stiffness is reached for the treatment variant 3 – maximum chitosan and copper sulphate concentration.
SEM characterization of the prepared samples as
presented is shown in figure 5. On samples surface a
number of deposits is observed smaller and less for
reference sample which is only dyed where to find
dye. These deposits become enlarged for samples it
prepared for variants 1 – 3 where beside dye there
are copper sulphate and chitosan.
The EDAX analysis of cotton fabrics was performed.
Due to the fact that high energy electron beam damage fast the fibres, this analysis has only qualitative
value in our case. The supplementary results confirm
the presence of the treated samples of elements such
as copper, and increased nitrogen content which
derives from dye and chitosan (table 4).
Evaluating the antibacterial activity for the treated
samples the experiments proved that the samples
treated with CuSO4 and chitosan have an antimicrobial effect on a large spectrum of microorganisms
(gram positive and gram negative), also confirmed by
literature. The antibacterial results are shown in figure 6 and table 5.
Table 1
THE VALUES RECORDED FOR FASTNESS TO WASHING, RUBBING AND PERSPIRATION (Variant 1)
CuSO4
concentration,
g/L
10
20
30
40
0
Fastness to rubbing
Fastness to
washing
Wet
Dry
5/5/5
5
4-5
5/5/5
5
5/5/5
4-5
5
5/5/5
4-5
5
5/5/5
Acid
Alkaline
4/5/4-5
4-5
5
Perspiration
4-5/5/4-5
5
Table 2
CuSO4
concentration,
g/L
6
8
10
Fastness to rubbing
Perspiration
Fastness to
washing
Wet
Dry
Acid
5/5/5
5
4-5
3-4/5/4-5
5/5/5
5
5/5/5
4-5
5
4-5
Alkaline
3-4/5/4
CuSO4
concentration,
g/L
10
20
30
40
Chitosan
concentration,
g/L
10
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Fastness to
washing
5/5/5
5/5/5
5/5/5
5/5/5
Fastness to rubbing
Wet
Dry
5
4
5
5
5
206
4
4
4
Table 3
Perspiration
Acid
Alkaline
4-5/5/5
4/5/5
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
a
b
Fig. 4. Influence of copper sulphate and chitosan on fabric stiffness:
a – variant 1; b – variant 2; c – variant 3
Element
Wt, %
NK
02.16
OK
SK
-
Table 4
MEDAX COMPONENT ANALYSIS
References
CK
c
45.42
Variant 1
Element
Wt, %
NK
02.17
CK
51.61
OK
-
CuK
00.81
Variant 2
35,75
SK
Element
Wt, %
NK
09.27
CK
60.15
OK
00.79
-
01.14
SK
Variant 3
28.23
Element
Wt, %
NK
09.03
CK
61.70
OK
-
CuK
00.80
SK
a
b
c
d
29.09
60.26
00.69
00.93
Fig. 5. SEM images of cotton fabrics samples:
a – reference; b – variant 1; c – variant 2; d – variant 3; scale bar – 10 m
The results given in table 5 show that the treatments
lead to a good inhibition of bacteria growth measured
for Escherichia coli followed by Staphylococcus
aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa.
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Antimicrobial activity improves with the increasing
concentration of copper sulphate.
For the reference sample no inhibition of bacteria
growth was noticed.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
CuSO4,
g/L
Table 5
ANTIMICROBIAL ACTIVITY OF CHITOSAN AND CuSO4 TREATMENT
Chitosan,
g/L
10
10
20
Staphylococcus
aureus
+
10
30
40
Escherichia coli
Pseudomonas
aeruginosa
+
+
+
+
10
++
++
-
-
-
10
Reference
Microorganism test
++
+
++
Note: + is weak inhibition of bacteria growth; ++ is good inhibition of bacteria growth;
- is no inhibition of bacteria growth
a
+
+
-
b
Fig. 6. Highlighting diameters of inhibition zones for antibacterial testing
of samples treated with CuSO4 and chitosan:
a – 30 g/L CuSO4; b – 40 g/L CuSO4
CONCLUSIONS
The use of chitosan and copper sulphate for treating
cotton materials dyed with reactive dye adds a significant improvement for the functionality of the cotton
fabrics.
The antibacterial effects have been enhanced as the
experiments show. The dye intensity improves when
the fabric is treated with both CuSO4 and chitosan
therefore increasing the efficiency of the dyeing process.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
This paper was realised with the financial support of the
project POSDRU CUANTUMDOC “Doctoral studies for
European performances in research and innovation”
ID79407, project financed by the European Social Fund
and the Romania Government.
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[11] Grace, M., Chand, M. N., Bajpai, S. K. Copper alginate-cotton cellulose (CACC) fibers with excellent antibacterial
properties. In: Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabric, 2009, vol. 4, issue 3, p. 24
[12] Anita, S., Ramachandran, T., Rajendran, R., Mahalakshmi, M. A study of the antimicrobial property of encapsulated copper oxide nanoparticles on cotton fabric. In: Textile Research Journal, 2011, vol. 81, issue 10, p. 1 081
[13] Puşcaş, E. L., Radu, D. C. Introducere în cunoaşterea şi măsurarea culorii. Editura Dosoftei, Iaşi, 1997
[14] * * * SR ISO 105 – A02:1995
[15] * * * SR EN 22313/1997
[16] Bucur, M. Metode obiective de apreciere a tuşeului. In: Industria Textilă, 2001, vol. 32, issue 1, p. 39
[17] Lau, L., Fan, J., Siu, T. Garments with Wrinkle-free treatment. In: Textile Research Journal, 2002, vol. 72, p. 931
[18] Mukhopadhyay, A., Kothari, V. K. Crease recovery of fabrics with air-jet textured weft yarns. In: Indian Journal of
Fibre & Textile Research, 2002, vol. 27, issue 4, p. 393
Authors:
Crd. ing. ABRAMIUC DANKO
Prof. dr. ing. AUGUSTIN MUREȘAN
Universitatea Tehnică Gheorghe Asachi
Facultatea de Textile-Pielărie şi Management Industrial
Bd. D. Mangeron nr. 53, 700050 Iaşi
Prof. dr. ing. CRIȘAN POPESCU
DWI at RWTH Aachen University, Germany
Conf. dr. SIMONA DUNCA
Universitatea “Alexandru Ioan Cuza”
Bd. Carol nr. I20 A, 700506 Iași
Corresponding author:
AUGUSTIN MUREŞAN
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
OKSAN ORAL
M. CETIN ERDOGAN
ESRA DIRGAR
Relația dintre tipurile de modele și parametrii conecși
În articol este analizată influența diferitelor caracteristici ale modelelor articolelor de îmbrăcăminte asupra tăierii și coaserii. În urma studiilor efectuate, a fost elaborată o metodă de determinare a timpilor de tăiere și de coasere pentru categoriile de produse folosite ca eșantioane, respectiv fustă și sacou bărbătesc. Au fost studiate opt modele diferite de fuste
și 7 modele diferite de sacouri bărbătești. Folosind relația Pearson, s-a calculat numărul total de piese, perimetrul
pieselor, timpul de tăiere și timpul de coasere. Pentru a stabili care sunt efectele altor factori asupra acestor procese,
s-a efectuat o analiză de regresie. În urma analizării tuturor factorilor și gradelor de afectare, s-a constatat că anumite
caracteristici ale unui model pot influența productivitatea și timpul în producția de confecții. Lucrarea evidențiază
importanța caracteristicilor diferitelor modele de articole de îmbrăcăminte pentru scurtarea timpilor de tăiere și de coasere.
Cuvinte-cheie: model, caracteristici, timp de tăiere, timp de coasere, perimetrul pieselor
In the study, the effects of different model characteristics of garments on cutting and sewing times have been investigated. Following the experiment, a method for determining cutting and sewing times for sample product groups has been
created. Product groups subject to the study are skirt and men’s coat. In the study, 8 different models to the chosen skirt
group and 7 different models to the men’s coat group were applied. Total number of pieces, perimeter of pieces, cutting
time, and sewing time were investigated. Pearson correlation was used in the study. Regression analysis was conducted to investigate the effects of other happenings on the observed process. Following the investigations of all factors and
their degrees of effect, it was observed that a characteristic of a model is one of the important factors that affect the productivity and time in apparel company. The paper provides that different model characteristics of garments is very important for cutting and sewing times.
Key-words: model, characteristics, cutting time, sewing time, perimeter of pieces
O
ne of the most important key factors of increasing compatibility in textiles is being able to reduce
the costs towards the global averages. The compatibility of apparel manufacturers depends on product
standardization, technology, how advanced they are
and whether they have the mental work-power to deal
with the technology. The technology development is
not limited only with automation of the machinery on
the production line but also includes processes
before and after the production [1, 2].
In companies, technology improvements are towards
increasing productivity and reducing costs [3].
Production is vitally important for the companies.
Improvement of productivity is not only increasing
profit but also the improvement in the way of production. Material and work-power are the basic subjects
of the efforts on improving productivity. The benefits
depending on the structures of the products models,
will affect directly the productivity of the company [4].
In companies, cost determination is the primary issue,
on which most attention and care is paid. Since all
savings without sacrificing from the quality affect the
costs in a positive manner, savings from the materials and production time should be the primary target.
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One of the main factors that affect the cost of a product is the characteristics of the model [5]. It should be
taken into consideration that model’s being in fewer
numbers of pieces will affect the amount of fabric to
be used; its cutting and sewing times.
It is obvious that customer demands directed the
manufacturer to work with different models. Various
models can be formed for garment types. Forming a
model on a garment may be defined as cutting the
garment into desired pieces, changing the form of the
garment by dividing it into pieces. When forming a
model, it is important to consider all phases of the
production line and doing it economically with existing resources [6, 7].
In the study, the effects of different model characteristics of garments on cutting and sewing times have
been investigated. Following the experiment, a method
for determining cutting and sewing times for sample
product groups has been created.
In apparel companies, after the model is formed, this
method will be useful in estimating cutting and sewing
times, calculating the productivity, production planning and estimating delivery date.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
METHODOLOGY USED
The material of the study consisted of clothing product groups made of woven fabric and garment models, CAD (computer aided design) machine used in
model pattern department and CAM (computer aided
manufacturing) cutting machine used in cutting
department.
Product groups subject to the study are skirts and
men’s coats. In forming the models to be applied to
each product group, some criteria were taken into
consideration. In order to be able to compare different modeling within each group, various dividing
were made and the criteria for models were determined. These are classic, horizontally cut, vertically
cut and both vertically and horizontally cut types of
models. In cutting of models some drawing bases
were benefited from. Since investigation of the relationship of the number of pieces with cutting and
sewing time was one of the aims of the study, preparing models with higher number of pieces was a priority [8].
In this study, evaluation research method includes an
analytic evaluation suitable for the aim of the study,
conduction of the study, experiments and data analyses.
Analysis of production process
and production flow
The production line comprising:
Step 1 – preparations of the patterns of the chosen
models using Muller pattern system according to CAD system;
Step 2 – grading of patterns according to determined
sizes;
Step 3 – preparation of marker plans for models;
Step 4 – cutting of marker plans using CAM;
Step 5 – determination of sewing times for the models using the method MTM – pre-accepted
properties of the study.
a
e
Fabric used
The woven fabric used in the study is single colored,
has no nap and available for placing the patterns in
both directions. The 148 cm wide fabric (the most
common one in the market) was used and all pattern
placements were practiced on 148 cm width.
Sizes
Since there is no size table adapted to Turkish men
and women sizes and since the nationality of the size
table was not effective on the aims of the study, normal German size table for men and women were
used in preparing the patterns.
Assortment of sizes
Before the patterns were prepared, sizes to be used
in the experiment and their numbers together with
their assortment numbers have to be determined. In
this study, sizes and the assortments used for the
women group are shown below:
38
40
42
36
1
1
1
1
The following sizes and assortments are for the men
group:
46
1
48
1
50
1
52
1
Determination of number of samplings
In the study, 8 different models to the chosen skirt
group and 7 different models to the men’s coat group
were applied. Skirt group is given in figure 1 and
men’s coat group is given in figure 2.
THE EXPERIMENTAL PATTERN OF THE STUDY
In the study the following parameters were investigated:
Total number of pieces – total numbers of pieces on
the cutting plan belonging to sizes were taken into
account;
b
c
f
g
d
h
Fig. 1. Skirt groups:
a – clasic; b – flared; c – horizontally cut, model 1; d – horizontally cut, model 2; e – vertically cut, model 1;
f – vertically cut, model 2; g – both vertically and horizontally cut, model 1;
h – both vertically and horizontally cut, model 2
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
Fig. 2. Men’s coat groups:
a – classic; b – horizontally cut, model 1; c – horizontally cut, model 2; d – vertically cut, model 1;
e – vertically cut, model 2; f – both vertically and horizontally cut, model 1;
g – both vertically and horizontally cut, model 2
Perimeter of the pieces – total length of the perimeters of the sizes on the cutting plan was taken in
meters;
Cutting time – the duration of the CAM operated cutting process of a single layer of the cutting plan was
taken in minutes;
Sewing time – taking the production diagrams of the
models into consideration, operation unit times were
taken in minutes according to MTM (method’s time
measurement).
The results of the trials were evaluated using SPSS
(statistical packet software). Pearson correlation was
used in the study. If p the significance value is smaller than 0.05 (probability) the linear relation (positive
correlation) (p < 0.05) between variables is significant. And if p > 0.05, there is no positive correlation,
therefore, insignificant.
Regression analysis was conducted to investigate
the effects of other happenings on the observed process [8].
FINDINGS
Finding for number of pieces and the perimeter
of the pieces
Correlation analyses of the results of trials conducted
as 7 trials for men’s coat models and 8 for skirt models were investigated using the software SPSS.
Values obtained as a result of correlation are given in
table 1.
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Table 1
CORRELATION FOR THE TOTAL NUMBER
OF PIECES AND THE PERIMETER OF PIECES
ON THE MARKER BOTH FOR THE SKIRT GROUP
AND MEN’S COAT GROUP
Factors
Skirt – total number of pieces –
perimeter of pieces
Men’s coat – total number of
pieces – perimeter of pieces
r
0.972
p
0
0.914 0.004
n
8
7
When the results in table 1 is examined:
– In the relation of the perimeter of the pieces and
number of pieces in the skirt group, p = 0, therefore, the linear relationship between these variables is statistically significant;
– In the relation of the perimeter of the pieces and
number of pieces in the men’s coat group,
p = 0.004, therefore, the linear relationship
between these variables is statistically significant.
Findings regarding number of pieces, cutting
time and sewing time
Skirt models
as 8 trials for skirt models were investigated using the
software SPSS. Values obtained as a result of correlation are given in table 2.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Table 2
THE CORRELATION OF NUMBER OF PIECES,
CUTTING TIME AND SEWING TIME IN
SKIRT GROUPS
Factors
Number of pieces – cutting time
Number of pieces – sewing time
r
p
n
0.968
0
8
0.549 0.159
8
When the results in table 2 are examined:
– since the relationship between number of pieces
and cutting time is p = 0.159, the linear relationship between these variables is statistically
insignificant;
– since the relationship between the number of
pieces and sewing time is p = 0, the linear relationship between these variables is statistically
significant.
Figure 3 shows the changing in the sewing time
depending on the number of pieces.
Fig. 3. Changes in the sewing time depending on the
number of pieces in skirt models
Men’s coat models
as 7 trials for men’s coat models were investigated
using the software SPSS. Values obtained as a result
of correlation are given in table 3.
Fig. 4. Changes in the cutting time depending on the
number of pieces in men’s coat models
Table 3
THE CORRELATION OF NUMBER OF PIECES,
MEN’S COAT GROUPS
Factors
Number of pieces – cutting time
Number of pieces – sewing time
r
0.981
p
0
0.942 0.002
n
7
7
– since the relationship between number of pieces
and cutting time is p = 0, the linear relationship
between these variables is statistically significant;
– since the relationship between the number of
pieces and sewing time is p = 0.002, the linear
relationship between these variables is statistically significant.
Figure 4 shows the changing in the cutting time
depending on the number of pieces, and figure 5
shows the changing in the sewing time depending on
the number of pieces.
number of pieces in men’s coat models
–
Findings regarding perimeter of pieces, cutting
time and sewing time
Skirt models
as 8 trials for skirt models were investigated using the
software SPSS. Values obtained as a result of correlation are given in table 4.
– since the relationship between perimeter of pieces
and cutting time is p = 0.137, the linear relationship
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213
between these variables is statistically insignificant;
since the relationship between the perimeter of
pieces and sewing time is p = 0.001, the linear
relationship between these variables is statistically significant.
Table 4
THE CORRELATION OF PERIMETER OF PIECES,
MEN’S COAT GROUPS
Factors
r
p
Perimeter of pieces – cutting time 0.573 0.137
Perimeter of pieces – sewing time 0.929 0.001
n
8
8
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
perimeter of pieces in skirt models
Fig. 7. Changes in the cutting time depending on the
perimeter of pieces in men’s coat models
Figure 6 shows the changing in the sewing time
depending on the perimeter of pieces.
Men’s coat models
as 7 trials for men’s coat models were investigated
using the software SPSS. Values obtained as a result
of correlation are given in table 5.
Table 5
THE CORRELATION OF PERIMETER OF PIECES,
SKIRT GROUPS
Factors
r
p
n
0
7
Perimeter of pieces – cutting time 0.866 0.012
Perimeter of pieces – sewing time 0.977
perimeter of pieces in men’s coat models
7
model has to be divided into higher number of pieces.
This increases the number of pieces.
– since the relationship between perimeter of pieces
and cutting time is p = 0.012, the linear relationship between these variables is statistically significant;
– since the relationship between the perimeter of
pieces and sewing time is p = 0, the linear relationship between these variables is statistically
significant.
Figure 7 shows the changing in the cutting time
depending on the perimeter of pieces and figure 8
shows the changing in the sewing time depending on
the perimeter of pieces
RESULTS
Results regarding total number of pieces and
perimeter of pieces
In both product groups of the study, it was observed
that an increase in the number of pieces increases
the perimeter of pieces. If the model is divided into
higher number of pieces, lines to be attached are prolonged. And this causes the perimeter of pieces that
form the model to prolong. According to the results of
the study, it was proven that vertically cut models
have longer perimeters than horizontally cut models.
If the perimeter length is desired to be prolonged, the
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Results regarding number of pieces,
cutting time and sewing time
When number of pieces and cutting times were
examined while the increase in the number of pieces
had no effect on cutting time in skirt models, higher
number of pieces increased cutting time in men’s
coat models, while when number of pieces and
sewing times are examined, an increase in the number of pieces in all product groups prolonged the
sewing time. In both cutting and sewing processes
another factor related to the number of pieces is the
perimeter of pieces. Therefore, it was found more
appropriate to evaluate cutting and sewing time data
in comparison with the data for number of pieces and
perimeter of pieces. Data for number of pieces and
cutting time is given in table 6. Data for number of
pieces and sewing time is given in table 7.
Results regarding the perimeter of pieces, cutting time and sewing time
In the previous evaluations, a positive correlation
was found, namely an increment in the number of
pieces increased the perimeter of pieces and cutting
and sewing processes depend completely on the
lengths of perimeters. Higher numbers of pattern
pieces on the model will certainly increase the total
perimeter lengths and therefore, changes will occur
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Table 6
Table 7
RESEARCH FİNDİNGS ACCORDİNG TO
THE NUMBER OF PİECES AND CUTTİNG TİME
İN MARKER PLAN
Skirt models
Classic
Flared
Horizontally cut, model 1
6.66
16
6.96
20
3.83
20
Vertically cut, model 2
6.18
28
7.64
Classic
4
10.628
5
11.351
6
24
Both vertically and horizontally cut, model 1
Classic
14.733
9
15.619
12
19.061
13
22.174
20
36
Classic
8.81
36
10.4
48
10.19
52
10.09
Men’s coat models
44
11.55
60
13
80
in cutting and sewing times depending on the properties of the systems used in the production.
When number of pieces, perimeter of pieces and cutting times were examined, it was observed that increments in number of pieces and perimeter of pieces
had no effect on cutting time in skirt models whereas
in men’s coat models the increments in these elements prolonged the cutting time.
In computer aided cutting machines, cutting times
and characteristics are affected by a number of factors such as: height of layers, type of the fabric and
characteristics of the model – corners in the model,
number of rounds and stops, number of markings
and notches, numbers and characteristics of inner
lines to be cut, cutting distance and number of patterns. All these factors affect cutting speed and determine cutting times in these computer aided cutting
machines used in the study.
When cutting times of a circle and a square with
same perimeter are examined, cutting time of the
square is longer than the circle because the knife has
to be taken out of the fabric layer three times due to
the need for turnings at right angels. But there is no
need for taking the knife out of the layer because
there is no corner turning in cutting the circle shape
and once cutting is started it continues without any
pause, therefore, the speed will be higher and cutting
time will be shorter. If number of marks, notches and
hole marks is high, this will also slow down the system and prolong cutting time. When skirt models are
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7
9
6.66
44
11.991
5
14.333
9.82
10.567
3
7
28
6.792
12.545
7.35
Men’s coat models
Cutting time, Number of
min.
pieces
9.539
Flared
12
5.19
Skirt models
Cutting time, Number of
min.
pieces
THE NUMBER OF PİECES AND SEWİNG TİME
16.141
16.849
18.585
11
11
15
examined with same concerns, number of stops will
increase due to the number of darts, therefore,
although the perimeter length is short cutting speed
will slow down and cutting time will prolong.
The skirt product group is different from the men’s
coat group in terms of structure. Taking the applied
model criteria for the skirt groups into consideration,
when horizontally cut models are examined; secondary models are observed to have shorter perimeter of pieces. They are also cut in shorter cutting periods. The cutting time is closely related to not only the
model but also to the structure and working characteristics of the computer aided cutting system used.
Factors such as measurement of the marker, length
of the cut, corner turnings, notches, holes and bents
closely affect the cutting time.
In models with less pattern functions compared to
skirts such as, men’s coat, increment in the number
of pieces and the perimeter of pieces prolong the cutting time.
Regression equalities for cutting time in men’s coat
models are given below:
men’s coat cutting time [min.] =
= 3.438 + 8.99  102  perimeter of pieces [m] (1)
When number of pieces and sewing time is examined, in all models subject to the study, increment in
the number of pieces and the perimeter of pieces
affect the sewing time. The increment in the number
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Table 8
THE NUMBER OF PİECES AND SEWİNG TİME
Skirt models
Classic
Flared
Cutting Sewing Number
time,
time,
of
min.
min.
pieces
6.66
9.539
30.7
3.83
6.96
6.792
10.628
27.5
34.9
5.19
10.567
33.7
6.18
12.545
45.7
7.35
11.991
6.66
14.333
48.1
8.81
14.733
62.9
Men’s coat models
Classic
7.64
9.82
10.4
11.351
16.141
15.619
40.9
42
68.6
73.4
10.09
16.849
76.2
11.55
18.585
82.3
13
22.174
10.19
19.061
89.6
101
of pieces prolongs the length of the lines to be sewed.
More lines to be sewed, means longer sewing time.
Regression equalities for sewing times for skirt and
men’s coat models are given below:
skirt sewing time [min.] =
= 0.276 + 0.282  perimeter of pieces [m]
(2)
= 2.456 + 0.191  perimeter of pieces [m]
(3)
men’s coat sewing time [min.] 0.020 =
Data for perimeter of pieces, cutting time and sewing
time are given in table 8.
CONCLUSIONS
Following the investigations of all factors and their
degrees of effect, it was observed that a characteristic of a model is one of the important factors that
affect the productivity and time.
Time and productivity take the cost factor under its
influence and divert it. Cost and profit calculations
that only take into account the cost efficiency of the
fabric are inappropriate.
Labor, a very important factor that affects the cost
must be taken into consideration. The main factor
affecting the labor cost is the time. In this respect,
apparel manufacturers should handle both fabric and
labor costs as a whole in cost calculations.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
[1] Denno, P. Aspects of a product model supporting apparel virtual enterprises. In: International Journal of Clothing
Science and Technology, 1997, vol. 9, no. 1, pp. 62-74
[2] Olaru, S., Mocenco, A., Teodorescu, M., Niculescu, C. Săliștean, A. Shape categories for the Romanian female
population and specific clothing recommendations. In: Industria Textilă, 2011, vol. 62, nr. 3, pp. 155 -160
[3] Jerrigen, M. H., Easterling, C. R. Fashion merchandising and marketing. Amazon Publishing, 1997
[4] Jones, R. M. The apparel industry. Blackwell Publishing, 2006, p. 328, ISBN 1405135999
[5] Chase, R., Aquiland, H. J. Production and operations management. Richard D. Irwing Inc., 1993, p. 194
[6] Erdogan, M. C. Erkek takim elbisesi üretiminde ekose boyutlarinin kumaş giderine etkisi. In: Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon,
1992, vol. 3, pp. 241-246
[7] Sieling, M. S., Curtin, D. Patterns of productivity change in men’s and boys’ suits and coats. Questia, Montly Labour
Rewiev, 1988, vol. 11
[8] Kansoy, O. The effects of model properties on fabric usage amount and costs on labour. Unpublished doctoral
theses, Ege University, 2003
Authors:
Dr. OKSAN ORAL
Prof. Dr. CETIN M. ERDOGAN
Dr. ESRA DİRGAR
Ege University
Bergama Technical and Business College
Textile Department
35700 Bergama – İzmir, Turkey
e-mail: [email protected]; [email protected]
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
MIHAELA CARP
AUREL POPP
Influenţa artei tradiţionale în creaţia vestimentară actuală
Arta tradiţională reprezintă ansamblul de activităţi artistice care sunt transmise de la o generaţie la alta, prin intermediul
experienţei directe, prin mediul familial sau prin instrumentele comunitare. Tehnicile şi formele artelor tradiţionale
evoluează însă foarte lent, de aceea se impune fructificarea efortului creator al designerilor vestimentari în ceea ce
priveşte creaţia, pentru a promova originalitatea şi diversitatea vestimentaţiei, elemente care sunt necesare în industria
modei, pentru care arta este o sursă importantă şi inestimabilă. Lucrarea evidenţiază unele aspecte privind relaţia dintre
arta tradiţională şi creaţia tehnică în vestimentaţie.
Cuvinte-cheie: artă tradiţională, design vestimentar, creaţie tehnică, industria modei
Traditional art represents the body of artistic activities that are transmitted from one generation to another by means of
direct experience, family or community tools. The techniques and the forms of traditional arts evolve very slowly, so it is
necessary to enrich the creative effort of fashion designers in terms of creativity, in order to promote originality and diversity of clothing, which are necessary elements in the fashion industry, for which art is an important and invaluable source.
This paper highlights some aspects regarding the relationship between traditional art and technical creativity in fashion
design.
Key-words: traditional art, fashion design, technical creativity, fashion industry
T
hrough traditional arts, each generation adds the
gift of creativity to tradition, the sense of what is
beautiful, symbolic and well done. This specific value
is defined by the community rather than the creative
approach of a specific individual, therefore the valorification of the creative ideas of fashion designers is
required in this respect. In order to keep the tradition
of true folk art, the hand stitching points were underlined in this paper, together with those performed
mechanically, and successfully used in the creation
of clothing, so popular even today.
This is the way the transition from technology to art
was made by textile expressions, but also by means
of a new approach and performance of the old ennoblement manual techniques. The wool blades were
embroidered since the Middle Ages, with crossshaped points, while the women learned to write letters
even during those activities (fig. 1). These symbols
(spiral, circle, tangent to circle, diamond or triangle
and cross, symbolizing the sun and moon) were
taken also in decorating clothing during Cucuteni
period, becoming a source of inspiration even in the
present stage.
The elements specified originally were part of the
ornamentation of Neolithic clothing, a theory supported also by the discovery of same symbols in artistic
traditions, belonging to other nations in Europe,
including the Romanian tradition of costumes decoration (except for clothing, they were used to decorate household objects, amulets, ceramic, wood,
stone or in building houses) [1].
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Fig. 1. Clothing in Cucuteni – Trypillia culture
(5500 BC – 2750 BC)
Source: Vladimir Dumitrescu – Bucharest, 1979;
graphic Zinayda Văşină
STAGES, RESEARCHES AND
MODELS’ SUGGESTIONS
Some traditional motifs in our country and other
countries with common tradition (fig. 2 a, b, c), are a
constant source of creation for fashion designers,
finding successfully a place both in modern clothing
ornamentation, and in the hearts of the potential customer, who will wear them. Preserved until today, the
tradition of enrichment of the textile surfaces but also
of clothing appeared in noble circles from Paris and
Versailles.
Current fashion promotes vividly natural trends.
Great designers have announced that they return to
nature, which will mean that the natural tendencies
are under the sign of normality, with predominant
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
a
b
c
d
e
f
Fig. 2. Types of embroideries performed with special mechanical embroidery machines:
a – zigzag embroideries; b – double zigzag embroideries; c – decorative satinated embroideries;
d, e, f – automatic specific programs, in the software of sewing and embroidery machines,
that perform those embroideries
colors reminiscent of nature.
Fashion will be placed under the
tactile and special visual impressions sign due to models and contexts, used for the most interesting
clothes. By making decorations
with modern techniques, one
imprints certain art prints and
stylistic features to compositions
and the report of the chosen
motifs give the fabrics and clothing a special look; the examples in
the following figures 2 d, e, f india
b
c
cate the possibilities of implementFig. 3. Stiches and embroideries samples, performed with semiautomatic
ing them with the help of mechanembroidery machines (automatic specific programs, in the software of
ical embroidery [2, 3].
sewing and embroidery machines):
The modern sewing and embroia – the sewing of different decorative traditional models included in the basic
dery machines have multiple posprograms; b – mixing the models, the mirror image of a model;
sibilities for achieving these ornac – decorative sewing
ments and similar seams of those
of folk art.
The technology has progressed in time, bringing for- the fabric [4, 5]. This can be achieved today mechanward the current computerized embroidery together ically with the help of sewing and embroidery
with the special techniques and little secrets that from machine (fig. 3 a, b).
the most appreciated method of embroidery and The analysis of the traditional seam by the multiple
enrichment of textile products. Embroidery is valuable actual technological possibilities facilitates bringing
and because it has a great visual impact, it brings the folk art, the modes of composition and the ennolight and brightness to these products (especially blement of textile surfaces in foreground. It should be
when using high quality embroidery thread), but the noted however that any mechanical seam can have
beside the role of proper assembly also a role in decmost important thing is that embroidery has a long
oration.
life, it does not deteriorate in time due to the repeatEthnic-inspired clothing is worn and appreciated in
ed washings or other external factors.
most countries with tradition, these trends are comEmbroidery is an art by which one decorates or per- ing back strong in the current fashion, with decorative
sonalizes a variety of clothing products and other tex- accents, using all types of stiches and embroideries,
tile items with different uses. Years ago this art was performed today by modern technologies, advanced
done manually, women were involved in this “job” of in time.
ancient tradition that was taught from an early age. Based on these technologies, the present research
After a while they started using a simple sewing was carried out with suggestions for modern outfits
machine embroidery but the frame movement in for women, having in this case as inspiration the
which the material for embroidery was tied up, was Romanian traditional costume in Muscel area (fig. 4
also done manually, following the designs drawn on a, b) and will be characterized by unique features of
industria textila
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218
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Fig. 5. Clasic dress–basic pattern
a
b
Fig. 4. Traditional costume from Muscel decorated with
geometrical embroideries, inspiration source in modern
clothing: a – assembly; b – detail
the folkloric garments, specific to this area, carried
out with great craftsmanship.
The shirt is made of cotton cloth, richly decorated
with handmade embroideries, and over this dress is
worn, made of silk fabric, wool or cotton, in which silver or gold threads are integrated. At holiday costumes, the peasant blouses and waist cords are decorated with sequins or beads applied manually. The
peasant blouses are made of thin cloth, woven at
home (twisted cotton with rustic trend), preserving
the cut and the structure of Romanian traditional
shirts, ennobled with counted thread embroideries,
decorative compositions being placed on the sleeves
and chest, made with wire cotton [6].
The dominant chromatic is white-black, blue-purple
and the eternal gold or silver thread. It is known that
the Muscel head dress has unique motifs as women
create on their own and never repeat it, representing
an element of female folkloric garments in this area,
being an indispensable accessory for headwear, on
holidays and it is made of fine silk threads woven in
the house, decorated with geometric or floral motifs,
embroidered with lace technique, like the whole folkloric costume in that region. The head dress is pinned
on the head with a black velvet headband with beads
applications, arranged in geometric and floral combinations.
The example shown in the previous figure is analyzed and a proper variant is elaborated, based on
the classic pattern of a dress with shoulder and waist
darts (fig. 5).
For this purpose, one can study examples from the
history of the costume or of the traditional costume of
other people [7].
industria textila
˘
The designer has the role of taking the products’
details, according to their structure, to achieve their
enrichment by different methods and to apply assembling and proper finishing technologies, for example
the detailed study of design methods, combining the
traditional methods with those of the specific automatic devices, which can be extended depending on
the production capacity of a unit. It is envisaged that,
regardless of the achieving method of the traditional
motifs, cannot be isolated by these modalities regarding the presentation method of the materials used in
creating products [8]. These aspects are associated
with the characteristics regarding the definition of the
drapery, flexibility, rigidity and friction coefficient etc.,
characteristics which define the feel of the material.
The elaborated analysis of the relation between the
fineness and the thread color as well as the fineness
and the structure characteristics of the materials is
not excluded. By means of the technique and of the
materials (fig. 6, a, b, c, d, e, f) the originality of the
newly created clothing assembly was underlined,
imprinting new trends of the feminine fashion.
It concerns the classic pattern dress with bust and
waist darts (table 1) no sleeves, the total length of
191,6 cm. The top part of the dress is individually tailored and it is inspired by the traditional Russian
sleeveless jacket (therefore two independent dresses
will be assembled together in lateral seams. The lower
parts will be completed independently of each other.
The face and the back of the above dress are identical therefore two superposed dressed, from which
the above one will be cut according to the pattern.
The zip will be on the left side of the dress, with a
length of cca 36 cm. It is mentioned that for the design,
one used the program Gemini Pattern Editor, with the
stages given in figures 7 and 8.
Following the presentations of the main stages of
design it is noted that the program allows the creation
of multiple models, if one starts from the basic pattern
shown in figure 5. This enables the creation of new
models by designing sleeves, pockets or collars,
219
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
according some custom designs. The enrichment by
means of embroideries or other decorative stitches
can be the produced on details or parts of the product, before assembling them.
b
Fig. 7. Technical chart dress model face and back
(2nd stage)
c
d
e
a
f
Fig. 6. The taking-over of the traditional decorative
details in the suggested garments:
a – dress model decorated with embroideries inspired by
traditional costume; b – traditional geometric motif from
Mușcel area; c – styling of the traditional motif d representation of mechanical embroidery;
d, e – the modality of mechanical execution of embroidery done on automatic embroidery machine;
f – selection of the program especially for performing
mechanical embroidery
Table 1
TDESIGN DIMENSIONS – TABLE OF SIZES
Ref.
Size, cm
38 l
2
Bust (chest) circumference
84
4
Waist circumference
6
Back length to the waist line
9
Bust addition
1
3
5
8
10
11
Body height
168
Hip circumference
94
Product length
191,6
Length of the shoulder
12.1
Waist addition
Hip addition
industria textila
˘
68
41.4
4
2.5
2
Fig. 8. Working stages in designing the model
CONCLUSIONS
This paper aims to promote cultural heritage, the
development of respect for the beauty of folk art, the
stimulation of curiosity for everything that means tradition and Romanian traditions and customs, creating
opportunities that help textile designers present their
creative work products.
The perception of beauty and harmony of Romanian
folkloric textiles and the identification of some phytomorphic, zoomorphic, anthropomorphic, skeomorphic motifs etc., our generations and the future ones
will always have access to the inexhaustible source
of beauty and authentic aesthetic experience, which
is our cultural heritage.
The study of figurative language of Romanian folk
art, the artistic representations of an ornament as
interesting in the stylistic expression as it is full of
meaning, reveals a unity in diversity that marks the
originality of some cultural values, sources of adequate systems of the artistic expression.
The individual research on the similarities of the traditional motifs with techniques to automatically
achieve the ornaments, have allowed the expansion of
the use of appropriate equipment for applications in
technical creation, customed to personalised products.
The embroidery and decorative stitching applications
on product details and landmarks, have an important
role in terms of product quality and clothing ensembles.
220
2013, vol. 64, nr. 3
BIBLIOGRAPHY
[1] Haşegan, M. Imprimeurile industriale – artă şi tehnologie. Editura Artes, Iaşi, 1998
[2] Mitu, S., Mitu, M. Bazele tehnologiei confecţiilor textile, vol. 1, 2. Editura Performantica, Iaşi, 2005
[3] Necef, O. K., Ondogan, Z. A study about garment collection preparation steps and quality control methods. In:
Industria Textilă, 2013, vol. 64, issue 3, pp. 163-167
[4] Popp, A., Babcineţchi, V., Carp, M. Modern processes of ennoblement for garment. In: Industria Textilă, 2012,
vol. 63, issue 2, pp. 79-84
[5] Papaghiuc, V., Creţu, M. Tehnici de înnobilare a suprafeţelor textile prin coasere. Editura Performantica, Iaşi, 2007
[6] Ion, O. Istorie şi cultură în Lereşti - Muscel. Editura Ars Docendi, 2004
[7] Carp, M., Mitu, S. Similitudini între arta tradiţională şi tehnologiile mecanice textile. Simpozionul anual al
specialiştilor din industria de tricotaje – confecţii, Iaşi, 4-5 decembrie 2009
[8] Carp, M. Broderiile industriale şi fuziunea între artă şi tehnologie. Simpozionul anual al specialiştilor din industria
de tricotaje – confecţii, Iaşi, 4-5 decembrie 2009
Authors:
Drd. ing. MIHAELA CARP
Drd. ing. AUREL POPP
Universitatea Tehnică Gheorghe Asachi
Facultatea de Textile-Pielărie şi Management Industrial
Bd. D. Mangeron nr. 53, 700050 Iaşi
e-mail: [email protected]; e-mail: [email protected]
DOCUMENTARE
Nanotehnologii
POLIMERI RANFORSAȚI CU NANOPARTICULE
PENTRU DISPOZITIVE MEDICALE
Compania Foster Corporation, cu sediul în Putnam,
Connecticut/S.U.A., în colaborare cu unul dintre liderii
de piață în producerea compușilor polimerici pentru
dispozitive medicale, au lansat compozitele ranforsate cu nanoparticule destinate dispozitivelor medicale
minim invazive, de tipul cateterelor, având o greutate
suplimentară de până la 30%.
Compușii ranforsați cu nanoparticule, cu o mare
capacitate de umplere, oferă un avantaj substanțial în
optimizarea proprietăților fizice ale rășinii de bază,
menținând, în același timp, capacitatea lor de prelucrare în componente cu pereți subțiri.
Compușii ranforsați cu nanoparticule încorporează
nanoplachete ultrafine, care interacționează direct
cu structura polimerului, sporindu-i proprietățile de
rezistență la încovoiere și îmbunătățind rigiditatea
componentelor.
Până în prezent, pentru a asigura dispersia plachetelor ultrafine în matricea polimerică, polimerii de tipul
poliamidelor și elastomerii termoplastici posedau o
industria textila
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capacitate limitată de încărcare a nanomaterialelor,
de obicei de 15%. Compania Foster a dezvoltat
modele brevetate de îmbinare, de tip spiralat, capabile de a realiza încărcări de până la 30%, având ca
rezultat o creștere a modulului de încovoiere cu până
la 300%, la cateterele obținute din elastomeri termoplastici, destinate domeniului medical.
Gama de compuși ranforsați cu nanoparticule, utilizați în producerea dispozitivelor medicale cu pereți
subțiri, include poliamidele, elastomerii termoplastici
și poliuretanii termoplastici, având un grad de încărcare pentru consolidarea nanoplachetelor cuprins
între 1 și 30%.
Tehnologia de nanoranforsare oferă posibilitatea de a
modifica proprietățile unui dispozitiv medical, fără înlocuirea polimerului de bază, necesare pentru aplicațiile de coextrudare și lipire.
De exemplu, modulul de încovoiere al unui durometru
72, realizat dintr-un polimer termoplastic, poate fi
reglat la valori cuprinse între 690 și 2 758 MPa, folosind nanoranforsări cu o încărcare de până la 30%.
221
Smarttextiles and nanotechnology, mai 2013, p. 7
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
IOANA CORINA MOGA
FLOAREA PRICOP
MARIUS IORDĂNESCU
RĂZVAN SCARLAT
ANGELA DOROGAN
Monitorizarea calității apelor uzate, generate de industria textilă
Utilizarea tehnologiilor convenționale în scopul epurării apelor uzate, generate de industria textilă, creează probleme din
ce în ce mai grave inginerilor de mediu, din cauza restricțiilor din ce în ce mai dure de deversare a efluenților, impuse
prin legislația de mediu. În lucrare sunt prezentate rezultatele obţinute în urma cercetărilor derulate pe platforma Parcului
Industrial şi Tehnologic Giurgiu Nord, unde îşi desfăşoară activitatea societăţi comerciale din industria textilă şi unde s-a
dorit minimizarea impactului negativ asupra mediului, generat de fabricile de textile. Astfel, s-a realizat retehnologizarea
staţiei de epurare, precum şi îmbunătăţirea procesului de producţie, prin utilizarea unor coloranţi ecologici şi prin modificarea fluxului tehnologic de vopsire a ţesăturilor, în scopul reducerii încărcării cu poluanţi a apelor uzate. În lucrare este
prezentat un nou proces de vopsire ecologic şi modalităţile de proiectare a treptei biologice de epurare.
Cuvinte-cheie: epurare, ape uzate, monitorizare, bazin aerob, modelare, simulare
The use of conventional textile wastewater treatment processes becomes drastically challenged to environmental engineers with increasing more and more restrictive effluent quality by water authorities. In the present paper are presented
the results obtained in two research projects. The paper presents the results obtained as a result of research carried out
on the platform of the Technological and Industrial Park Giurgiu North, where textile industry companies are operating
and where we wanted to minimize the negative environmental impact generated by the textile factories. We worked on
the refurbishment and technologization of the wastewater treatment palnt and the improvement of the production process (using organic dyes and modifying the dyeing process flow of the fabric) in order to reduce the pollutants found in
the wastewater. A new environmentally friendly dyeing process is presented in this paper and also ways to design a
biological treatment stage.
Key-words: wastewater treatment, monitoring, aerobic basin, modeling, simulation
M
odern textile dyes are supposed to have high
degree chemical and photolytic stability in order
to keep their forms and colors. For that reason the
dyes are produced showing resistance to sunlight,
detergent, soap and water. These characteristics of
the dyes affect the methods of water treatment.
With the accumulation of the dyeing substance in
water environment, appears the danger of toxic and
carcinogenic products [1]. Releasing colored waste water into the environment may cause great damages to the human body, functions of kidneys, reproductive system, liver, brain and nervous system [2].
In natural water masses occur aesthetic corruptions
due to the existence of color and it hinders the permeability of oxygen. The decrease of the decomposed oxygen in water masses severely affects the
life in water environment. For that reason eliminating
the dyes from wastewater is the basic environmental
problem and it is vital because the dyes are visible
even in low concentrations.
Wastewater resulted from dyeing may contain toxic
components and heavy metals due to chemicals and
dyeing substances [3]. With this structure dying
industria textila
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wastewater causes problems in refining facilities.
Thus, color removal has become the most important
environmental problem that can be faced in the matter of wastewater treatment [4].
SPECIFIC POLLUTANTS GENERATED
BY THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY
In textile processing, the industry uses a number of
dyes, chemicals, auxiliary chemicals and sizing materials. As a result, contaminated wastewater is generated, which can cause environmental problems
unless properly treated before its disposal.
The textile industry is characterized by several pollutants, the most common ones being [5]:
• Presence of color in the wastewater is one of the
main problems in textile industry. Colors are easily visible to human eyes even at very low concentration. Hence, color from textile wastes carries
significant esthetic importance. Most of the dyes
are stable and light or oxidizing agents have no
effect onto them. They are also not easily degradable by the conventional treatment methods.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Removal of dyes from the effluent is a major problem in most of textile industry branches.
• Dissolved solids contained in the industry efflu-
•
•
ents are also a critical parameter. Use of common
salt and glauber salt etc. in processes directly
increases total dissolved solids (TDS) level in the
effluent.
Wastewater generated by the textile industry is
not free from metal contents. There are mainly two
sources of metals. Firstly, the metals may come
as impurity with the chemicals used during processing, such as caustic soda, sodium carbonate
and salts. The metal complex dyes are mostly
based on chromium.
Due to the use of chlorine compounds in textile
processing, residual chlorine is found in the waste
flow.
• Textile effluents are often contaminated with non-
biodegradable organics termed as refractory
materials. Detergents are typical examples of
such materials. The presence of these chemicals
results in high chemical oxygen demand (COD)
value of the effluent. Organic pollutants, which
originate from organic compounds of dye stuffs,
acids, sizing materials, enzymes, tallow etc. are
also found in textile effluents.
Some values related to the characterization of
wastewater in the dry-house in which different dyes
and fibers are dyed are shown in table 1.
Some of the quality parameters that must be monitored are mentioned in table 2 [6], as well as the maximum allowed values for the discharged effluents in
natural receptors (rivers, lakes – NTPA 001) [7] or in
municipal sewage systems (NTPA 002) [8].
Table 1
THE CHARACTERIZATION OF DYING WASTEWATER
Fiber
variety
Type of dye
Color
Acid
Polyamide
4 000
Alkaline
Acrylic
5 600
1:2 metal complex
Polyamide
Direct
Reagent,
noncontinious
Reagent,
continious
Viscose
12 500
Cotton
1 390
Cotton
Vat
Cotton
Dispers,
high temperature
370
Polyester
3 890
1 910
1 245
Biological
oxygen
demand,
mg/l
Biological
oxygen
demand,
mg/l
Total suspended
solids,
mg/l
Dissolved
solids,
mg/l
570
400
5
3 945
6.8
26
2 669
6.6
240
315
210
15
102
150
32
12 500
11.2
41
3 945
11.8
256
198
5.1
13
230
294
2 028
255
140
0
14
pH
360
1 469
9
4.5
691
76
9.1
1 700
10.2
Table 2
QUALITY INDICATORS FOR DISCHARGED WASTEWATER
Unit
NTPA 001/2005
NTPA 002/2005
Suspended matter
mg/dm3
35
350
Chemical oxygen demand
mg/dm3
pH
Quality indicator
-
Biochemical oxygen demand
mg/dm3
Ammonium nitrogen
mg/dm3
Total nitrogen
6.5 - 8.5
20
70
2.0
mg/dm3
10.0
mg/dm3
0.5
Total phosphorus
mg/dm3
6.5 - 8.5
300
500
30
-
1.0
5.0
Sulphates
mg/dm3
600
600
Petroleum products
mg/dm3
5.0
-
Sulphides and hydrogen sulphide
Organic solvents extractable substances
Biodegradable synthetic detergents
industria textila
˘
mg/dm3
223
mg/dm3
20
0.5
1.0
30
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
CASE STUDY – WASTEWATER TREATMENT
PLANT (WWTP) FROM GIURGIU NORTH
INDUSTRIAL AND TECHNOLOGICAL PARK
Experimental research on the finishing
biotechnology (pretreatment and dyeing)
of the cellulosic textile materials
The classical finishing technologies and biotechnologies for textile finishing were simultaneously experienced at Giurgiu North Industrial and Technological
Park, in order to compare both mechanical and physical-chemical properties of the textile materials as
well as the results in terms of wastewater pollution.
The comparative technological scheme of conventional and organic cellulosic textile materials finishing
(fig. 1) and the dyeing process diagram (fig. 2) highlight the advantages of using biotechnology instead
of classical technologies.
The comparative results of wastewater quality indicators for classical technologies and biotechnologies,
as well as pollution reduction percentage are presented in table 3.
The experimental results presented in table 3 are
obtained at a Romanian textile factory. Both processes were tested (the classical one and the ecological
process) and samples were taken from the wastewater generated. The samples were analyzed and the
main quality indicators were determined. The textile
factory produces denim cotton fabric. The dyes used
for denim fabric are very toxic and in many countries
they are forbidden. That is why, this topic is very
important and it was studied during several years of
research. The results obtained at the Romanian textile company are very good and a significant improvement of the quality indicators can be observed in
table 3. The new conceived technology was tested
and the following socio-economical effects were
obtained [9]:
– reduction of technological phases number (phases cumulating);
– reduction of technological process time by 45 minutes;
– reduction of technological consumptions/kg textile material by: 56 l water, 0.007 kWh power,
1.02 kg steam, 0.05 kg chemical products;
– reduction of total costs/kg textile material (water,
power, steam, chemical products) by 0.293 euro/
kg textile material;
– dying quality enhancement (dye fastness enhancement);
– value reduction of quality indicators for wastewater (pH, COD, BOD, suspended solids, sulphates,
detergents), by 30 – 70%;
– cost reduction for wastewaters de-pollution by
2 – 4 euro/l wastewater.
Fig. 1. Comparative scheme of the classical and ecological technological process
Fig. 2. Ecological process diagramme
Table 3
COMPARATIVE ANALYSES OF WASTEWATER QUALITY INDICATORS
Test
pH
COD
mgO2/l
BOD
mgO2/l
P1 wastewater –
classical process
12.3
449.82
807.38
NTPA 002/2005
7.6
6.5-8.5
201.9
275.8
38.2
55.1
65.8
P2 wastewater –
ecological process
Diminution of P1/P2, %
industria textila
˘
300
500
224
Suspended
solids,
mg/l
Sulphates,
mg/l
11
93.4
167
350
184.5
Detergents, Residuum,
mg/l
mg/l
6.3
1 810
92.9
5.7
1 100
49.6
9.5
39.2
600
25
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Wastewater monitoring
The case study presents the wastewater treatment
plant in Giurgiu Nord Technological and Industrial
Park (GNTIP). The wastewater treatment process is
conducted in five circuits (fig. 3), each with its own
specificity: wastewater circuit, air circuit, sludge circuit, reagents circuit, wastewater circuit.
Wastewater is sent with pre-pumps in the screen
chambers. It is afterwards directed to an underground basin where the flow gets homogenized, still
and uniform. A submersible pump directs the wastewater to the reaction chamber of the wastewater treatment plant. The following two stages are for settling
solids and removing foam. Wastewater circuit continues with water passing through an underground aerated basin and finally through a settling compartment.
Air circuit consists of a blower, air compressor, systems of pipes and tubes for air transport, system of
diffusers and electric and control panel of the 2
pieces of equipment. Air is blown through perforated
pipe type diffusers made of polyethylene within the
reaction chamber and in the underground basin
which follows after the stage 2 – settling. If necessary
air is introduced by compressor in the basin situated
after the reaction chamber.
Sludge is extracted from the 2 mechanical treatment
stages. The coarse suspended solids are also
retained by rare screens and removed from the wastewater mass. Sludge is discharged from wastewater
treatment using pumps. Reagents circuit consists of
chemical treatment plant and solution supply circuit
of the reaction chamber.
To discharge wastewater into the public sewerage
network an upstream network manhole is provided.
This is the place where samples were taken from, in
order to be tested, for the determination of water
quality and the treatment degree.
Monitoring system will cover the entire process flow
taking data from the existing plants and from measurement and control equipment, installed to permanently monitor the water quality.
Fig. 3. Existing treatment flow in Giurgiu North Technological and Industrial Park [9]
Fig. 4. Overall diagram of monitoring and automation installations
industria textila
˘
225
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Monitoring application is a type of SCADA program
(Supervisory Control and Data Acquisition) and collects data in the field using a data acquisition system
with installed flow PLC for process control and for the
online analog signals acquisition.
SCADA system proposed for the automation and
monitoring of wastewater treatment plant in Giurgiu
Nord Technological and Industrial Park is shown in
figure 4. Selection of monitoring points takes into
account significant point sources, appropriate quality
monitoring points of environmental factors (in our
case, monitoring of wastewater before and after treatment) and monitoring of critical process parameters.
Within the water treatment plant of the GNTIP the following sensors can be located: dissolved oxygen
sensor, 2 pH sensors, turbidity/ suspended solids
sensor, ammonium and NO3 sensor, CCO Cr sensor,
sensor for measuring the sludge level.
Fig. 5. Dissolved oxygen profiles
Fig. 6. Dissolved oxygen dispersion
Fig. 7. Dissolved oxygen profiles (zoom)
industria textila
˘
Mathematical modeling and monitoring
of the aeration processes
The second stage is for biological treatment of wastewater loaded with organic matter. Commonly used
process is the aerobic process dependent on maintaining the dissolved oxygen concentration to 1–3
mg/l. The oxygen quantity inside the basin should
cover both microorganisms breathing and oxidation
of organic matter. Considerable savings can be
achieved by realizing a correlation between the oxygen demand and the operation of the blowers. In the
process of aerobic biological treatment with activated
sludge, the following monitoring sensors can be
installed [10]:
• in the aerobic basin can be measured the values
for organic load, ammonia, total phosphorus (if
not measured at the output of the primary clarifier), dissolved oxygen, redox potential, pH, ammonium concentration, concentration of suspended
solid particles inside the aeration tank and based
on these values can be controlled the activated
sludge recirculation pump, injected air flow, air
pressure injected into the aerobic system;
• in the secondary clarifier can be measured the
values for sludge quantity, concentration of suspension solids in recirculating activated sludge,
the height of activated sludge layer inside the clarifier, concentration of suspended solids discharged from the clarifier.
Numerical simulations for the aeration
processes
The numerical simulations were realized for the reaction chamber, where an aeration system is mounted.
Near the reaction basin is placed the first settling
basin. Here, air is introduced inside the wastewater
mass with the help of an additional compressor.
The dissolved oxygen profiles are presented in figures 5 – 8. The maximum values are obtained near
the diffusers. In this area it will be obtained a transfer
process of high intensity, because of the renewal
contact area between gas and liquid, where the gas
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
bubble are formed and detach from the diffuser.
While the gas bubbles are rising inside the water column from the biological reactor, the value of dissolved oxygen is decreasing because of: oxygen
consumption needed at organic matters biochemical
oxidation, the oxygen concentration from the air bubble is reduced, due to the transfer effect near the diffuser. Inside the reaction chamber the level of the dissolved oxygen is higher than the level obtained inside
the clarifier. This situation is normal, because inside
the reaction chamber are placed more diffusers and
the basin is reduced compared to the clarifier.
Because the total length of the 2 basins is very high
(18 m) in figures 7 and 8 are presented to sections
only for the areas with aeration systems (a zoom is
realized). Here, more easily, can be observed the
concentration of the oxygen profiles.
As was mentioned before, the air compressor is not
always in function. So, for this particular situation,
additional numerical simulations are realized and
presented in figures 9 and 10. Here, the values for
the dissolved oxygen are lower, fact that is explained
by using a decreased number of diffusers. Depending
on the wastewater characteristic, the air compressor
introduces or not air inside the first part of the clarifier. The simplified form for the dispersion equation
was considered for the realization of the numerical
simulations [11] :
Fig. 8. Dissolved oxygen dispersion (zoom)
C 


C

C
+ (u C ) + (w C ) = ex + ey – kCC
t x
y
x
x
y
y
(
)
(
)
(1)
where:
ex, ey represent the dispersion coefficients, on the
two direction of fluid current, because of the turbulent regime are considered the average values for these coefficients;
u, v is velocity components on the two axes taken in
consideration;
C – concentration for the dissolved oxygen;
k – oxygen consumption for organic matter degradation and for microorganism breathing process.
(the air compressor is not in operation)
CONCLUSIONS
During our research we have developed a continuous versatile dyeing process, with organic sulfur
dyes, characterized by minimal water consumption,
low amount of waste water, “zero” dye in wastewater.
The continuous dyeing process with sulfur dyes with
high exhaustion degree is adaptable also to the
semi-continuous process in which the dye is fixed by
oxidation/fixation without prewash.
The procedure allows fixing the dye 100%, requiring
only a rinsing after the fixing stage.
It is a short procedure, eco-friendly, and by comparison with the classic procedure (padding-laying with
reactive vinylsulphonic dyes or padding – vapouring
with sulphur dyes), leads to a decrease in water consumption of about 90%.
In order to determine the main quality indicators of
wastewater on various technological processes there
industria textila
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227
(the air compressor is not in operation)
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
were performed comparative studies. In this regard,
we have performed dyeing both with classical dyes
and sulfur dyes with a high degree of exhaustion. We
have sampled wastewater from both processes and
performed analyses within accredite laboratory.
Better results were obtained in the case of using the
ecological technology with sulphur dyes with high
exhaustion degree, and the quality indicators of the
wastewater were reduced (by 33–97)% compared to
the quality indicators of the wastewater resulted from
the classic dyeing technology. The sulphites quantity
was diminished significanlty (97%).
The numeric simulations based on mathematical
modelling have led to the proper dimensioning of the
aeration system within the wastewater treatment
plant.
AKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The work has been co-funded by the Sectorial Operational
Programme Human Resources Development 2007–2013
of the Romanian Ministry of Labor, Family and Social
Protection through the Financial Agreement POSDRU/89/1.5/S/62557 and by the Romania-Bulgaria CrossBorder Cooperation Programme 2007–2013 (project ENVICONTEH no. MIS - ETC cod 129).
BIBLIOGRAPHY
[1] Petropol, G. D. Surse de apă şi ingineria apelor reziduale. Note de curs, 2009
[2] Mitchell, M., Stapp, W. Red river basin water quality monitoring manual, 2005
[3] Bertea, A. F., Butnaru, R. Polyamide dyeing wastewater recycling after Fenton-like oxidative treatment. In: Industria
Textilă, 2012, vol. 63, issue 6, pp. 322-326
[4] Odenbach, R. Standard operating procedures for water quality monitoring. Minnesota: Red Lake Water District,
2001
[5] Metcalf and Eddy. Wastewater engineering treatment, disposal, reuse. 3rd edition, Mcgraw-Hill Book Co., 1991
[6] Supra, L. F. Overview of wipp effluent monitoring program, 2005
[7] NTPA-001/2002 - Normativ din 28 februarie 2002 privind stabilirea limitelor de încărcare cu poluanți a apelor uzate
industriale și orășenești la evacuarea în receptorii naturali
[8] NTPA-002/2002 - Normativ din 28 februarie 2002 privind condițiile de evacuare a apelor uzate în rețelele de
canalizare ale localităților și direct în stațiile de epurare
[9] Pricop, F. et al. Integrated systems of monitoring and controlling wastewater quality. In: Industria Textilă, 2013,
vol. 64, issue 1, pp. 40-45
[10] Robescu, D., Lanyi, S., Robescu, D. Controlul automat al proceselor de epurare a apelor uzate. Editura Tehnică,
2004
[11] Mandiș, I. C., Robescu, D., Pricop, F. Mathematical modeling and numerical simulation of ozone mass transfer processes used to treat wastewaters from textile industry. In: Industria Textilă, 2009, vol. 60, issue 4, pp. 220-227
Authors:
Cerc. şt. gr. III dr. ing. IOANA CORINA MOGA
Universitatea Politehnica București
Str. Splaiul Independenței nr. 313, 060042 Bucureşti
Cerc. şt. gr. III ing. FLOAREA PRICOP
Cerc. şt. gr. III ing. RĂZVAN SCARLAT
MARIUS IORDĂNESCU
Cerc. şt. gr. III dr. ing. ANGELA DOROGAN
Institutul Naţional de Cercetare-Dezvoltare pentru Textile şi Pielărie
Str. Lucreţiu Pătrăşcanu nr. 16, 030508 Bucureşti
industria textila
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
DOCUMENTARE
Materii prime
CERERI MARI PENTRU NANOFIBRELE
DE TITAN
Cercetătorii de la Universitatea Nanyang, din
Singapore, au creat o nanofibră din dioxid de titan, cu
costuri de producție reduse și cu multiple utilizări,
cum ar fi: generarea hidrogenului și producerea de
apă curată și chiar de energie, desalinizarea apei și
recuperarea energiei din apele desalinizate, realizarea de celule solare flexibile, dublarea duratei de
viață a bateriilor litiu-ion, producerea unui nou tip de
bandaj antibacterian.
Echipa de cercetare coordonată de Darren Sun, prof.
asociat la Universitatea Nanyang, a transformat cristalele de dioxid de titan în nanofibre brevetate, din
care pot fi fabricate, cu ușurință, membrane filtrante
flexibile, obținute dintr-o combinație de carbon,
cupru, zinc sau cositor, în funcție de produsul final ce
urmează a fi realizat.
Dioxidul de titan este un material ieftin și ușor de
procurat. S-a dovedit științific faptul că dioxidul de
titan are capacitatea de a accelera reacțiile chimice
fotocatalitice și că este hidrofil, cu o afinitate ridicată
pentru apă. Datorită acestor avantaje, nanomaterialele obținute din dioxid de titan sunt ușor de produs și
au un preț de cost redus, având un potențial imens
pentru a face față provocărilor globale continue din
domeniul energetic și cel al protecției mediului.
Odată cu creșterea populației (8,3 miliarde de locuitori, în 2013), cererea globală de energie, alimente și
apă potabilă este tot mai mare. Legat de aceasta,
prof. Sun menționa: “Deși nu există o soluție rezonabilă pentru rezolvarea celor două mari provocări
existente la nivel mondial – energia regenerabilă
ieftină și furnizarea unor mari cantități de apă curată
– situația poate fi îmbunătățită cu ajutorul membranei
multifuncționale, care conține nanoparticule din dioxid de titan, factorul-cheie în descoperirea unor astfel
de soluții... Cu acest nanomaterial unic, echipa speră
să poată transforma deșeurile de astăzi în resursele
de mâine de apa curată și de energie”.
Dioxidul de titan are o mulțime de aplicații: poate
genera, în același timp, hidrogen și apă curată,
atunci când este expus la lumina soarelui; poate fi
utilizat la confecționarea, cu costuri reduse, a unor
membrane filtrante flexibile, cu proprietăți speciale
antivegetative; desanilinizează apa în cazul utilizării
ca membrană pentru osmoză, ce permite un flux mare;
valorifică energia din apa rezultată în urma desalinizării; poate fi folosit la producerea, cu costuri reduse,
a celulelor solare flexibile, generatoare de electricitate; dublează durata de viață a bateriilor litiu-ion,
atunci când este utilizat ca anod; datorită proprie tăților antibacteriene superioare, poate fi utilizat la
dezvoltarea unui nou tip de bandaj antibacterian.
industria textila
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Inițial, pentru a realiza membrane antibacteriene
destinate filtrării apei și împiedicării dezvoltării bacteriilor care blochează porii membranelor și opresc trecerea fluxului de apă, Sun a folosit dioxid de titan cu
oxid de fier. Pe parcursul experimentelor, echipa a
descoperit că aceste membrane ar putea acționa ca
fotocatalizatori, transformând – sub acțiunea razelor
solare – apa uzată în hidrogen și oxigen. Un astfel de
efect este obținut, de obicei, cu ajutorul platinei, un
metal prețios scump și rar.
“Cu o astfel de descoperire, este posibil să se realizeze, cu costuri mai mici, tratarea apelor uzate simultan cu stocarea energiei solare sub formă de hidrogen, care să poată fi disponibilă în orice moment din
zi sau din noapte, indiferent dacă este sau nu soare,
ceea ce o face cu adevărat o sursă de combustibil
curat ... Astfel, se obține o producție de hidrogen mult
mai ieftină, cu un randament de aproximativ trei ori
mai mare decât în cazul folosirii platinei. Concomitent, se poate produce apă curată, cu un cost al
energiei aproape de zero, ceea ce ar putea schimba
sistemul actual de reciclare a apei, peste tot în lume”
– a declarat Sun.
Hidrogenul este un combustibil curat, care poate fi
utilizat pentru pilele de combustie auto sau în centrale electrice, pentru generarea electricității.
Această descoperire, care a fost publicată recent în
revista academică Water Research, a arătat că o
cantitate mică de nanomaterial (0,5 g de nanofibre
din dioxid de titan, tratate cu oxid de cupru) poate
genera 1,53 ml de hidrogen pe oră, atunci când este
introdus într-un litru de apă uzată. Prin această metodă, se produce o cantitate de hidrogen de trei ori mai
mare, decât în cazul folosirii platinei. În funcție de
tipul de apă uzată, cantitatea de hidrogen generată
poate ajunge chiar la 200 ml pe oră.
Particulele de dioxid de titan nu numai că ajută ca
apa să fie descompusă, dar ele pot face ca membranelele filtrante să fie mai hidrofile, permițând apei
să treacă cu ușurință, în timp ce contaminanții sunt
respinși, inclusiv sarea, ceea ce este perfect pentru
desalinizarea apei prin osmoză. Pornind de la aceasta, a fost realizată o noua membrană pentru osmoză,
care permite un flux mai mare. Această descoperire,
publicată recent în revista Energy and Environmental
Science, reprezintă primul raport privitor la nanofibrele și particulele de TiO2 utilizate într-un sistem de
osmoză, pentru producerea apei curate și generarea
de energie.
Datorită proprietăților antimicrobiene și a costurilor
reduse, aceste membrane pot fi folosite pentru realizarea bandajelor antibacteriene respirabile, care pot
combate infecțiile – în cazul rănilor deschise, și pot
grăbi procesul de vindecare, permițând oxigenului să
pătrundă în ghips. Proprietățile acestor membrane
sunt similare cu cele ale bandajelor de plastic,
comercializate în prezent pe piață.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
Proiectele de cercetare derulate au arătat că, atunci
când este tratat cu alte materiale sau când se
regăsește sub o altă formă (cristalină), dioxidul de
titan poate avea și alte utilizări, cum ar fi producerea
celulelor solare. Prin realizarea unei plăci policristaline din dioxid de titan negru, echipa de cercetare a
dezvoltat o celulă solară flexibilă, care permite
generarea electricității de la razele solare.
În același timp, o altă echipă a profesorului Sun se
preocupă de dezvoltarea nanomaterialelor din dioxid
de titan negru, în scopul producerii bateriilor litiu-ion,
folosite la dispozitivele electronice. Rezultatele preliminare ale au arătat că, atunci când nanoparticulele
din dioxid de titan modificate cu carbon sunt utilizate
ca anod, ele pot dubla capacitatea energetică a
bateriilor litiu-ion, oferindu-le o durată de viață mult
mai lungă.
Sursa: www.ntu.edu.sg
Textile neþesute
NEŢESUTE DIN NANOFIBRE PENTRU
REGENERAREA ŢESUTURILOR
Companiile germane Biopharm GmbH, cu sediul în
Heidelberg, şi Freudenberg – cu sediul în Weinheim,
lider în sectorul neţesutelor, au elaborat Brevetul internaţional 2012/175611, publicat în 27 decembrie 2012,
care tratează neţesutele ce conţin proteina GDF-5.
Materialele sunt special proiectate pentru a accelera
procesele de regenerare a ţesuturilor şi de vindecare
a leziunilor, iar brevetul elaborat acoperă domeniul
de utilizare a acestora ca pansamente şi tampoane
pentru leziuni, dar şi ca implanturi.
GDF-5 este o moleculă morfogenă, care susţine proliferarea şi diferenţierea celulelor din ţesuturi, precum
și refacerea ţesutului. Se înrudeşte cu GDF-6 şi GDF-7,
aceste trei proteine prezentând proprietăţi biologice
comparabile şi un grad foarte ridicat al omologiei
secvenţei de aminoacizi. S-a demonstrat faptul că
aceste proteine îndeplinesc, în primul rând, rolul de
inductori şi reglatori importanţi pentru oase şi cartilaje.
Proteinele de tipul GDF-5, ce reprezintă factori de
creştere, au fost utilizate cu succes în cercetarea
terapeutică şi chirurgia recuperativă, ele susţinând
procesele de vindecare naturală a diferitelor ţesuturi
vătămate, fie independent, fie în combinaţie cu mate riale cu matrice specifică. Deşi au fost dezvoltate
câteva compoziţii farmaceutice cu conținut de proteine mature, active biologic, înrudite cu GDF-5,
formarea şi manipularea acestora a fost problema tică, din cauză că proteina matură tinde să inter acţioneze cu câteva materiale solide şi are o
solubilitate foarte mică în condiţii fiziologice.
În scopul vindecării leziunilor, au fost dezvoltate
pansamente chirurgicale atât sub formă de loţiune,
cât şi în formă solidă, realizate cu diferite contururi și
industria textila
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dimensiuni şi din diferite tipuri de materiale, pentru a
asigura cicatrizarea rănii în condiţii semisterile. Unele
pansamente sunt confecţionate din colageni, altele
din componente sintetice, cum ar fi polimerii termoplastici amorfi.
Există pansamente de ultimă generaţie, pentru leziuni, care posedă, suplimentar, proprietăţi de administrare a unor medicamente, cum ar fi antibioticele
sau citokinele EGF (factor de creştere epidermică) şi
PDGF/Becaplermin (factor de creştere derivat din
plachete). PDGF modificat genetic este disponibil în
comerț sub denumirea de Regranex, ca gel topic
pentru vindecarea leziunilor (0,01%). Acesta a primit
aprobarea de utilizare în tratarea ulceraţiilor piciorului
diabetic, extinse la ţesutul subcutanat şi în profunzime.
Pentru vindecarea leziunilor şi regenerarea altor ţesuturi sunt solicitate, mai ales, materiale care livrează
corpului omenesc proteine ce se comportă ca factori
de creştere şi de diferenţiere. De aceea, scopul deținătorilor brevetului menționat a fost acela de a îmbunătăţi utilitatea terapeutică a GDF-5 şi a proteinelor
înrudite, prin furnizarea unor materiale şi dispozitive
noi de vindecare a leziunilor. Noile pansamente
pentru leziuni sunt confecţionate din textile neţesute,
care conţin cel puţin o substanţă activă biologic, în
special substanţe antimicrobiene şi antibiotice.
Pe parcursul studiilor privind îmbunătăţirea utilităţii
terapeutice a GDF-5 şi a proteinelor înrudite, inventatorii prezentei aplicaţii au descoperit că astfel de
neţesute sunt adecvate, în primul rând, pentru furnizarea de proteine cu factor de creştere şi de diferenţiere. Combinaţia dintre GDF-5 şi neţesutele bioresorbabile a dus la obținerea unor efecte neaşteptate,
benefice aplicării proteinei GDF-5.
Neţesutele biodegradabile au furnizat un substrat
pentru GDF-5, prezentând o eliberare mai intensă de
proteină matură, dar și bune proprietăţi de manipulare. Această combinaţie de administrare a proteinei
GDF-5 va fi controlată la locul de aplicare şi, prin
urmare, va apărea efectul factorului de creştere în
locul vizat de acţiunea farmacologică. Pe lângă acest
control spaţial, cantităţi mai mari de GDF-5 activ sunt
extrase din neţesutele biodegradabile într-un interval
de câteva zile. Datorită încorporării proteinei GDF-5
în materialele neţesute, efectele de precipitare dependente de pH sunt depăşite şi, totodată, este
micșorată interacţiunea cu materialele solide.
Sursa: www. biopharm.de
Nanotehnologii
NOUL SISTEM 4SPIN CU JET SPOREȘTE
PRODUCTIVITATEA
Ca urmare a eforturilor depuse pentru dezvoltarea
de noi tehnologii capabile să producă nanofibre din
materiale greu filabile, dezvoltatorii de la firma
Contipro, din Republica Cehă, au reușit să crească
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
în mod semnificativ producția de nanofibre, prin elaborarea unui nou sistem cu jet. În funcție de soluția
folosită, acest sistem cu jet ar putea fi de șapte ori
mai productiv decât tehnologia actuală.
Datorită proprietăților excepționale, nanomaterialele
pot fi utilizate în diverse domenii, de la medicină la
aplicațiile de mediu. Cu toate acestea, utilizarea lor
pe scară largă este împiedicată de prețul ridicat al
nanomaterialelor, comparativ cu cel al materialelor
clasice. De aceea, nanomaterialele sunt folosite
numai atunci când beneficiile proprietăților lor sunt
mai mari decât prețul.
În timp ce cea mai utilizată metodă industrială de
producție a nanofibrelor se bazează pe formarea acestora din polimeri, prin electrofilare în câmp electrostatic, sistemul brevetat multijet, fără ac, asigură formarea fibrelor cu ajutorul unui flux de aer cald, format
în jurul jetului. Acest lucru face posibilă obținerea de
nanofibre din soluții foarte vâscoase sau din soluții cu
un procent foarte mare de solvent și, de asemenea,
crește în mod semnificativ productivitatea jetului,
reducând astfel costurile de producție a nanomaterialelor.
Scopul inițial al proiectului l-a constituit elaborarea
unui sistem cu jet care să permită dezvoltarea de noi
tipuri de materiale pentru medicină. Curând, prin
comparațiile testelor de laborator, s-a constatat că
metoda elaborată este mult mai eficientă decât
metoda clasică de producție a nanofibrelor. Mai mult,
noua tehnologie oferă condiții controlate și reglajul
cu mare precizie al jetului, permițând atingerea unor
valori mult mai stabile ale caracteristicilor nanofibrelor produse în cadrul proceselor de lungă durată.
Deoarece nanofibrele sunt de mii de ori mai fine
decât un fir de păr uman, orice modificare minoră a
caracteristicilor acestora este de mare importanță.
Noul sistem cu jet, brevetat, a fost dezvoltat ca un
modul pentru dispozitivul de producție a nanofibrelor
4SPIN, lansat de Contipro, în Japonia, la sfârșitul
lunii ianuarie 2013. Acest dispozitiv a fost conceput,
în special, pentru îmbunătățirea producției de nanofibre, în condiții de laborator, iar sistemul multijet fără
ac s-a dovedit a fi cel mai eficient modul dintre emițătorii furnizați.
Versiunea pilot a dispozitivului a fost concepută de
Contipro, în laboratoarele sale, și va fi urmată de o
unitate complet operațională pentru producția de
nanofibre. În acest sens, numeroase dispozitive
Contipro sunt destinate să ofere mijloace ample de
transfer al rezultatelor cercetării nanomaterialelor de
la stadiul de laborator la practici de producție și
clienți. Acest lucru poate fi realizat cu ajutorul echi pamentului de laborator existent, cu emițători variind
de la un electrod cu ac la un sistem multijet fără ac,
precum și cu ajutorul unei viitoare versiuni pilot și,
mai ales, prin intermediul versiunii complet operațio nale 4SPIN.
Un alt element care diferențiază seria de echipamente de filare 4SPIN de alte dispozitive existente pe
piață este posibilitatea de a dezvolta noi aplicații ale
biopolimerilor în domeniul medical.
Smarttextiles and nanotechnology, mai 2013, p. 8
industria textila
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Noi tehnologii
NOI PERFORMANȚE ALE CELULELOR SOLARE
CU PELICULE SUBȚIRI
Laboratoarele federale elvețiene pentru știința materialelor și tehnologie – Empa, au realizat celule
solare cu pelicule subțiri, pe bază de substraturi polimerice flexibile, cu o eficiență record, de 20,4%.
Celulele dezvoltate în cadrul Laboratorului pentru
Pelicule Subțiri și Celule Fotovoltaice se bazează pe
un material semiconductor din seleniură de cupru,
indiu și galiu (CIGS), cunoscut pentru potențialul său
de a oferi electricitate solară eficientă și rentabilă. În
prezent, se dorește o gamă mai largă de aplicații
industriale ale acestei tehnologii. Recordul eficienței
energetice de 20,4%, care a fost atins pentru ultima
generație de celule solare CIGS cu pelicule subțiri,
pe bază de substraturi polimerice flexibile, reprezintă
o îmbunătățire semnificativă față de recordul anterior,
de 18,7%, obținut de aceeași echipă în mai 2011.
Echipa a optimizat caracteristicile stratului CIGS,
obținut la temperaturi scăzute, care absoarbe lumina
și contribuie la obținerea curentului fotoelectric din
celulele solare. Valoarea eficienței celulelor a fost
atestată de către Institutul Fraunhover pentru
Sistemele Solare (ISE) – din Freiburg, Germania.
Noul record Empa în ceea ce privește eficiența celulelor solare flexibile depășește în prezent valoarea
record de 20,3% pentru celule solare CIGS aplicate
pe substraturi din sticlă și atinge cea mai ridicată
eficiență pentru celulele solare pe bază de plăci de
siliciu policristalin.
Totodată, a fost eliminată diferența de eficiență dintre
celulele solare pe bază de plăci de siliciu policristalin
și celulele cu pelicule subțiri CIGS.
Peliculele subțiri și modulele solare flexibile, de înaltă
performanță, sunt atractive pentru numeroase aplicații, cum ar fi: fermele solare, acoperișurile și fațadele clădirilor, automobilele și electronicele portabile.
Ele pot fi produse utilizând procesele continue
“roll-to-roll”, care oferă reduceri ale costurilor ulterioare, în comparație cu tehnologiile standard pe
bază de siliciu.
“Seria de eficiențe record ale celulelor solare CIGS,
flexibile, dezvoltate la Empa, demonstrează performanța excelentă a celulelor solare cu pelicule subțiri,
comparativ cu cea a celulelor de siliciu policristalin ...
Acum este momentul pentru următoarea etapă – o
tehnologie aplicată la scară largă cu un partener
industrial, care să acopere domenii vaste ale unui
proces de producție eficient din punct de vedere al
costurilor” – a declarat Gian-Luca Bona, directorul
Empa.
Empa colaborează în prezent cu Flisom, o companie
recent înființată, implicată în industrializarea celulelor
solare flexibile CIGS.
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Sursa: www. empa.ch
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
ANIVERSARE
PROF. ING. ARISTIDE DODU LA 90 DE ANI DE VIAȚĂ ȘI 65 DE ANI DE ACTIVITATE
Domnul prof. ing. cercetător științific gradul I Aristide Dodu s-a născut la 9 iunie 1923, în satul
Dădăeşti, comuna Vultureni din judeţul Bacău, într-o familie modestă de învăţători.
Excelenta sa devenire personală s-a bazat pe aptitudinile deosebite manifestate încă din fragedă
copilărie, dar și pe inițiativă, creativitate, inovare, perseverență etc.
Având o reală înclinaţie spre inginerie, cu toate că mediul socio-economic în perioada de după
cel de-al II-lea razboi mondial era nefavorabil, a reușit să urmeze cu succes cursurile Facultăţii
de Textile la Institutul Politehnic din Bucureşti, Secţia Mecanică Textilă, obţinând diploma de
inginer. În paralel cu studiile efectuate la Politehnica Bucureşti, a urmat cursurile Academiei de Arte
Frumoase (1944–1949) şi ale Seminarului Pedagogic Universitar (1947–1949), din Bucureşti.
Prestigioasa și îndelungata activitate profesională a prof. ing. Aristide Dodu a început ca inginer
la S.C. Apollo S.A. – București, unde – în perioada 1949–1954 – a ocupat funcțiile de șef de
serviciu și șef de secție. Prof. ing. Dodu Aristide este unul dintre fondatorii cercetării textile din România, activând în
calitate de inginer, cercetător ştiinţific principal, şef de laborator şi specialist consultant la Institutul de Cercetări Textile –
Bucureşti, încă din primii ani de funcționare a acestei unități și până în anul 1989. Activitatea științifică s-a corelat cu cea
educațională, lucrând ca profesor la Grupul Școlar MIU și ca profesor asociat pentru cursurile postuniversitare sau de
perfecţionare a inginerilor textilişti, la Institutul Politehnic Bucureşti şi la cel din Iaşi, profesor asociat la Facultatea de
Design-Modă şi Creaţie Vestimentară din cadrul Universităţii EUROPA-ECOR, din Bucureşti, consultant în domeniul
pregătirii pentru doctorat în cadrul ASE – Bucureşti, Institutului Politehnic din Iaşi şi din Bucureşti şi Academiei Militare
Bucureşti.
Activitatea ştiinţifică a prof. ing. Aristide Dodu s-a materializat în participarea la realizarea obiectivelor a peste 250 de
proiecte de cercetare ştiinţifică și elaborarea de studii tehnico-economice pentru domeniul textil, finalizate cu tehnologii și
produse noi, cu un grad ridicat de performanță tehnică și aplicabilitate industrială. Specializarea multidisciplinară a condus
la inițierea și organizarea, pentru prima dată în România, a unei secții de cercetare și producţie a articolelor medicale
textile implantabile la om: proteze vasculare, valve biologice pentru inimă, proteze de sinus frontal şi arcade, înlocuitor de
meninge, colomelă auditivă, proteze rinoplastice, aţă chirurgicală pentru implantări pe termen lung, petice de plastii,
ligamente pentru genunchi etc. și la proiectarea și realizarea primei mașini rectilinii de tricotat cu comenzi electronice
pentru realizarea de tricoturi complet conturate și cu structuri jacard, cu rapoarte de desen nelimitate. Gradul ridicat de
inovare al rezultatelor proiectelor de cercetare s-a reflectat atât prin obținerea a peste 35 de Brevete de Invenţii și
Certificate de Inovator, cât și prin participarea, în calitate de autor și coautor, la referate susținute la peste 500 de
conferințe și publicații, din care 60 de cărți, manuale, tratate și broșuri: Manualul Inginerului Textilist (ediţiile I şi a II-a) –
care a primit Premiul AGIR în anul 2004, Dicţionarul Explicativ Poliglot pentru Ştiinţă şi Tehnologie – elaborat sub auspiciile
Academiei de Științe Tehnice din România, care a primit Premiul AGIR în anul 2006, Lexiconul Tehnic Român, Tehnologia
tricotajelor (vol. I şi II) etc.
Recunoașterea prestigioasei activități știintifice și didactice a condus la nominalizarea prof. ing. Aristide Dodu ca Membru
de onoare al Academiei Oamenilor de Știință și Decan al Colegiului de Etică Profesională din AGIR, alegerea ca
Preşedinte de onoare al IFKT – România şi Preşedinte de Onoare al Societăţii Inginerilor Textilişti din România, membru
al Comisiei de Terminologie pentru Ştiinţe Exacte a Academiei Române, membru al Colegiului de redacţie al publicaţiei
„Univers Ingineresc“ şi al revistei „Industria Textilă“, cotată ISI, membru al New York Academy of Sciences, în anul 1999 etc.
Personalitatea remarcabilă a prof. ing. Aristide Dodu, evidențiată prin modestie, abilități de comunicare, capacitate
deosebită de sinteză și tenacitate în atingerea obiectivelor propuse au atras atenția unităților de cercetare și învățământ
superior, asociațiilor profesionale din țară și străinătate, care i-au acordat peste 50 de premii, diplome și medalii, printre
care și Ordinul Național pentru Merit în grad de Cavaler.
Cu ocazia împlinirii a 90 de ani de viață și 65 de ani de activitate profesională, colegii și colaboratorii din Institutul Național
de Cercetare-Dezvoltare pentru Textile și Pielărie și membrii SIT–AGIR urează domnului prof. ing. Aristide Dodu un
călduros „LA MULȚI ANI“.
industria textila
˘
232
Dr. ing. Emilia Visileanu
Editor șef al revistei Industria Textilă
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4

Textila 2_2012.qxd - Institutul National de Cercetare

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