Southern Brazil July-August 2015 Birding Trip Report
Transcription
Southern Brazil July-August 2015 Birding Trip Report
Southern Brazil July-August 2015 Birding Trip Report by Nathan Terzaghi Gubernetes yetapa Streamer-tailed Tyrant, REGUA I spent just over a month in Brazil during the austral winter, as part of a 2.5 month trip to South America, of which 1 month was mostly dedicated to an observation program for my medical studies in Argentina (nonetheless allowing to do more than a week's total birding in Buenos Aires and Entre Ríos provinces), and 2 weeks were spent birding in northwest Argentina. After dropping off the car I had rented in Tucumán, I spent some time wondering if it might not be preferable to go to Peru instead of Brazil as I had planned, so as to not be “offseason”, but in the end I felt it would be too complicated. I thus bought a bus ticket for Puerto Iguazú. The trip to Iguazú lasts about 24 hours; in this case about noon to noon. I spent an afternoon and a morning (and early afternoon) in the Puerto Iguazú-Iguazú falls area. Due to the geographical and ecological proximity of this area to southern Brazil, I include my brief time here in this report, and when I refer to "Brazil" the term includes this area. This being my first time ever in South America, I was naturally looking forward to go birding, and obviously most of the birds I saw here were new for me. I have no idea what my whole 2.5-month trip to South America cost, but it certainly amounts to quite a few thousand USD. Hopefully I can pay my parents back after I get my MD. Driving I rented 3 cars in Brazil: a Dacia Sandero in Porto Alegre, a Fiat Novo Uno in Curitiba, and a Sandero again in São Paulo. I was a faithful customer of Localiza, mainly out of habit, and also because they were very slightly cheaper than the competition; overall prices seemed pretty constant between companies and between cities, at around 100 reais per day for the cheapest deals. Luckily for my last and longest rental (the big loop starting and ending in São Paulo), I got the Dacia Sandero for the cost of a Fiat Uno, after recounting my misfortunes with the Fiat Uno I 1 rented in Curitiba. Although their appearance may sugest it, Dacia Sanderos are not 4wd, so I am not sure they handle that much better muddy conditions; I did make it up Canastra all right though. The Sandero from Porto Alegre had an appallingly weak engine; the one from São Paulo was stronger but it still was often at 5000 rpm on uphill stretches on highways, lower than that I would be lugging it. In general I found drivers to be more civilized than expected. After having read a few bloggers strongly discouraging foreigners from renting a car in Brazil, I had half-expected every other car to drive as recklessly as in a video game. Thus I was rather surprised to see that in terms of traffic safety, Brazil was not all that different from back home. I believe this might be the outcome of recent changes following the introduction of, among other implements, speed cameras, which are now abundant along Brazilian roads, in conjunction with often very low speed limits. These limits actually seemed almost ridiculously low at times; much lower than one might find on similar roads in Switzerland. Consequently I am guilty of innumerable counts of speeding, some of which might have been caught by the less obvious cameras. Luckily nothing seems to have come of it; but I still worry that Localiza might siphon off from my bank account whatever amount they see fit to pay for the traffic violations I committed. One issue that still remains to be addressed is the inescapable often very slow trucks that inevitably strongly limit progression along two-lane roads, and which prompt other vehicles to attempt dangerous passing maneuvers. To allow for safe passing, a tercera faixa (third lane) can often be found on uphill segments, but the sheer number of trucks means that on busy roads one almost inevitably ends up behind another slow truck after having passed a previous one on the tercera faixa. I myself frequently passed slow vehicles in suboptimal conditions, and my guess is that these were the situations that posed the greatest risk to my health in the whole trip. Another issue is crosswalks. By and large, motorized vehicles do not stop for pedestrians, although in upscale touristy town Campos de Jordão for instance they seem to do so more frequently. While there are many billboards delivering various messages on traffic safety (exhortations to respect the speed limit, wear a seat belt, not follow a vehicle too closely) I never saw one asking drivers to stop for pedestrians; I did see a few warning pedestrians not to cross outside of crosswalks. The car rental companies apply a cleaning charge if the vehicle is dirty upon returning it. Eventually I learned to get the car cleaned, both outside and in, before dropping the car off, since this costs only a small fraction of the rental company's surcharge. Accommodation I had brought a tent with me and had planned to do quite a lot of camping, but I only camped in Canastra, and spent a night in the car at Agulhas Negras; otherwise I spent all my nights at hotels or guest houses. I think hotels are just easier to come by than campgrounds, and usually the prices are pretty modest. Sleeping in the car outside of a campground makes a bit nervous, which is why I only did it once. One thing I somewhat disliked about Brazil was the attitude towards visiting natural areas in general. It seems that hiking is not a common activity here, and consequently it is difficult to find trails though natural habitats, and the ones that do exist are generally unmarked, which means that one easily could get lost. Locals do endorse natural reserves, but it seems that most popular sites tend to encourage visitors to hire guides instead of exploring on their own. I suppose this is largely a policy intended to benefit the local economy, but I do not see why one could not simply apply a higher entrance fee. Many places that do let you explore on your own (e. g. Cipó, which is also free) have opening hours which are often impractical for birding purposes. Itatiaia also has opening hours for those who like myself do not stay in the park; however they for birders they are extended: 5 am to sometime in the evening; you just need to say you are a birder at the entrance. Of course I realize it may not be desirable to loosen these regulations: one problem is that unguarded places do tend to degenerate, often suffering from littering and attracting ill-intentioned people; Regua owner Nicholas stated this as the reason they have not locally publicized the reserve. Food On the whole I found it easier to eat well in Brazil than in Argentina, mostly thanks to the popularity of the prato feito, which is readily available for a very modest price in most typical low-key restaurants. This is a dish consisting of multiple elements, namely the staples rice and black beans, and a variable combination of several of the following: beef, chicken, or fish fillet, shrimp, fried potato, something semolina-like, salad consisting of lettuce 2 and a few other veggies, and likely more things I forget. There is of course a lot of less healthy food, including various kinds of tasty fried stuffed pastry, and unfortunately soft drinks, as in Argentina, are often easier to come by than plain water. Since I usually did not have breakfast, and did not want to stop at a restaurant for lunch, I would try to always have some kind of ready-to-eat goods with me in the car, among which cookies ended up representing a regrettably large proportion. Weather Despite having visited in the middle of winter quite a few birds were singing, and overall in terms of ease of finding species I don’t think there is that much of a difference with respect to a spring visit – unless you take the weather into account, as much of the trip was blighted with adverse meteorological conditions. In Río Grande do Sul I had moderate to very strong wind for over half of the time; in the Curitiba area it was often drizzling, and it rained torrentially on my last evening; in Canastra and Cipó there was pronounced wind every day starting at the latest in the mid-morning; I am quite sure I missed a sizeable amount of species on account of the wind especially. Language I managed to get around with my feeble Portuguese which was mostly derived Spanish, a language which I had studied at school for 4 years. The first few days I did not understand much, but then it got better. I did not usually try to communicate in another language, but sometimes people would spontaneously speak to me in English or Spanish, and a few times when I could not manage to express what I wished in Portuguese I might try a few words in English or Spanish. Pronunciation of the "r" took me about a week to figure out; there is one difference between the south and the north. - If it follows a consonant and precedes a vowel, or is between two vowels, the r is pronounced like in Spanish. - At the beginning of a word or for double r, the r is pronounced like a soft French r. - Following a vowel and preceding a consonant, or at the end of a word, the r is pronounced like an American English r in the south; in the north it is a bit unclear and can be pronounced either like a Spanish r, a soft French r, or, like the British English r at the same position in a word, is not really pronounced but modulates the preceding vowel mostly by lengthening it. People were quite friendly overall, in fact rather more so than expected; having often heard about Brazilian favelhas and the long dictatorship, I had constructed for myself a vision of Brazil as a potentially rough place, though I did not sincerely believe it since the trip reports I read did not seem to indicate this. On various occasions people, often random strangers, went out of their way to help me and would not accept a financial reward. Accessories A few useful accessories I had brought with me or acquired on the spot, and which one might not spontaneously think of, include: earplugs, sleeping mask, flashlight, gumboots, insect repellent, headphones, adapter, spare battery for phone, external battery, charger that fits in car’s cigar lighter. When I went for walks I would always bring my binoculars, my smartphone, and a backpack containing food, water, my bird guides, and my electronic equipment bag in case the phone or camera battery died. I had a spotting scope with me too but rarely used it. I did not have much medication and made little use of what I had; I did get several vaccines back in Geneva before leaving. At any rate I did not get sick during the trip. Camera I had with me a Lumix DMC TZ70. It is very small and can fit in my pocket, and yet magnifies to 720mm, and digitally zooms a lot more still. Unfortunately it is not really fit for avian photography, not just because of its small size, but more importantly still because of focusing issues. In particular, regarding autofocus – a necessity in many cases – the function whereby the camera focuses on a specific target on the screen instead of deciding for you is only available on certain modes. Unfortunately in these modes the camera has a very long shutter speed if the lighting is poor, which renders any picture appallingly blurry. In another mode the shutter speed can be shortened, yielding pretty good results even in dense forest before sunrise, but then the camera would usually focus on the wrong thing. An arguably more important purpose of this camera was to record bird vocalizations which I did not recognize, with the intention of later trying to identify them at leisure. However, now 2 months after having returned, I have not yet gone through most of them, and am rapidly forgetting vocalizations, which will make the task more 3 Sporophila caerulescens Double-collared Seedeater male, Ubatuba difficult. I recorded probably about 2 hours of bird vocalizations in hundreds of mostly brief videos. Unfortunately I failed to record many vocalizations that I would have wished to. The camera did not have a strap for wearing around the neck, so I kept it in my pocket, which meant that I needed to keep it turned off. When I heard a bird I needed to turn on the camera, wait for it to be able to start recording, and still suffer a lag of about 2 seconds between the time it said it started recording and the time it actually started. (Strangely, the 2 seconds preceding the moment that I pushed the button to end the recording were also eliminated). All in all between the time I heard a bird and the time I could start recording I had to wait a good 15 seconds, by which time the bird had likely shut up. Vocalization recordings I spent a lot of time trying to learn bird songs. Before leaving home, I had bought Birds of the Southern Cone by Bernabe López-Lanus and Birds of Brazil by Peter Boesman. BotSC is very comprehensive for the region it covers, and thus contains recordings of many southern Brazilian species, but does not cover most strict Brazilian endemics. These I then copied onto my computer and my smartphone. In BotSC, the recordings placed into folders regrouping all the members of each family. There are also many photos which are similarly arranged. Additionally all of these files are duplicated, bearing once the scientific name and once the English name. All of these aforementioned points collectively make BotSC superior to BoB. The latter is terrible on a smartphone because all the recordings are placed into a single file where they are arranged taxonomically. It literally takes over a minute to scroll down to the bottom of the whole thing. Thus, for it to be at all practical, I had to transfer from BoB to BotSC the recordings of all the extra species occurring in Southern Brazil not featured in BotSC. It took a while, but it was worth it; I recommend anyone keen on having bird vocalizations on their phone to arrange Boesman’s songs into family files. Some species in the area I visited were absent from either collection, so I downloaded some of their vocalizations from Xeno-Canto; again this was quite time-consuming. Now for learning the songs: I did not have much time to study them before my trip, so I had to learn a lot during the trip. If I had the time, I would listen to songs in the evening, or, with headphones, in public situations, such as on a bus or in a restaurant. When I first arrived in Iguazú, I knew only few vocalizations; by the end of the trip I could recognize over 50 percent of individual vocalizations, especially those of the more common species. Ideally, 4 from a “productivity”-oriented perspective, I would have spent several months beforehand studying my recordings, though I am not sure I would have had the patience; it’s not that fun an activity, but then it is satisfying in the field to recognize by voice most of the species. Identification books I had with me the classic combo of Ridgley and Tudor’s Birds of S America: The Passerines and Princeton Illustrated Checklists’ Birds of S America: Rheas to Woodpeckers. Together these two books fully cover all birds species present in South America; my opinion of them is largely shared by other birders. The Princeton book is a bit excessively sparing in terms of wording, and what text there is tends to be unhelpful, trivial and redundant with respect to the illustrations. In the case of similar species, instead of focusing on the differences between the two, the text for one species will simply repeat the gross characteristics shared among both species, which are furthermore made sufficiently evident by the illustrations, with the distinguishing markings mentioned, without any emphasis, within this general description. The illustrations are passable and most birds are clearly recognizable, but the level is clearly below that of Tudor’s, and is basically insufficient for identification of difficult Charadriiformes for instance. Still, at the very least Rodríguez Mata deserves credit for the hard work. The Ridgley and Tudor book is excellent but cumbersome; aside from that its only considerable flaw is to not illustrate all species, and among the species illustrated not to depict all plumages. To compensate for this deficiency, I downloaded from the internet photos of the missing plumages. Colonia colonus Long-tailed Tyrant, Ubatuba 5 Itinerary 30.06: Arrival in Puerto Iguazú, bird road to Iguazú falls and Iguazú falls in PM. 01.07: Birding road around turnoff to Iguazú falls in AM, Jardín de los Picaflores in early PM. Taxi to Foz de Iguaçu, night bus from Foz to Puerto Alegre. 02.07: Arrival in Puerto Alegre. Taxi to airport where rent car with localiza. Drive to São Francisco de Paula via Nova Petrópolis. 03.07: Birding in SF de Paula to Cambará do Sul area, back to SF at night. 04.07: SF de Paula to Lagoa do Peixe and night in Tavares. 05.07: Lagoa do Peixe (trilha Talha Mar and das Dunas), night in Balneário de Mostardas. 06.07: B de Mostardas to Puerto Alegre. Returned car. Taxi to bus station. Night bus to Curitiba. 07.07. Arrival in Curitiba. Taxi to Barigui park. After Barigui, taxi to bus station to recover luggage, taxi to airport to rent car. Drive to Scytalopus iraiensis site in Sao Jose dos Pinhais. Drive to Itapoá. 08.07: Day in Volta Velha. 09.07: Morning in Volta Velha, then to Formicivora acutirostris site N of Garuva, and bottom of Monte Crista trail in late PM. Night in Garuva. 10.07: Walk up to Monte Crista and back down (all day). Drive back to airport, return car. Taxi to bus station, night bus to Sao Paulo. 11.07: Arrival in Sao Paulo. Taxi to airport, rent car. Drive to São Roque de Minas. 12.07: Canastra NP upper part to waterfall in AM, drive to lower part to waterfall in PM, back to São Roque for night. 13.07: Same as yesterday, and then drive a bit further W; night near waterfall in lower part. 14.07: Canastra NP lower part around waterfall, then road W. Drive to Cipó. 15.07: Cipó, upper part in early AM. Late AM to mid-PM in actual park in valley. Late PM back to upper part. 16.07: Cipó upper part in early AM. Drive to Fruteiras (N of Vargem Alta). 17.07: Visit Caetes farm. Drive to Vitória to get permit, but unsuccessful. Drive to Santa Teresa. 18.07: Augusto Ruschi reserve in AM, then Museo Mello Leitão, drive to Linhares. 19.07: In Vale do Rio Doce all day. Night in Sooretama. 20.07: Drive to Buzios. 21.07: Praia do Peró, then Praia de Massabamba, then drive to REGUA. 22.07: REGUA. 23.07: drive up to Pico Caledonia with REGUA team. 24.07: REGUA in AM, drive to Carmo. 25.07: Carmo hill, then Carmo road, and drive to Itatiaia. 26.07: Itatiaia NP, drive at night to Agulhas Negras road. 27.07: AM in Agulhas Negras road, then to Perquê, drive at night to Ubatuba. 28.07: Folha Seca, Corcovado, Angelim Farm in Ubatuba. 29.07: Angelim Farm, Pica Pau camping in Ubatuba, late PM in Campos do Jordão area. 30.07: Road right from Horto Florestal, Horto Florestal, drive to Intervales. 31.07: Intervales. 01.08: Intervales. 02.08: Intervales. 03.08: Early AM in Intervales, then drive to Sao Paulo and to Mogi das Cruzes. 04.08: Formicivora sp. nov. site and other wetland near Mogi, return car at airport, flight to Buenos Aires. 6 Colibri serrirostris White-vented Violetear, Cipó Birding Sites I do not have the motivation to write a more detailed daily account like I did for northwest Argentina. Additionally for many of the sites that I visited I do not feel I could contribute much more to the information already presented in Jeremy Minns's site notes and John van der Woude's trip report (and Clayton Burne's trip report for Iguazú) which have both been extremely useful in finding my way around various birding sites. There are on the other several sites that I visited which are not covered by either of them, and others which may benefit from additional specifications, or simply from comments about my own experience there. Almost all the birding sites I visited are already well-known, but finding them can be rather tricky; for this I largely depended on Jeremy Minns’ site notes and John van der Woude’s trip report. John van der Woude often provides GPS coordinates, but not infallibly, and several are erroneous; Jeremy Minns provides no coordinates, and I consequently feared I would not find several of the sites mentioned; luckily these fears were (almost) unfounded, but I nonetheless find it would have been easier if I had had coordinates, which is why I have provided some in this report for sites where they were lacking. I also used the Birdquest report to get an idea of what to expect, since they are exceptionally successful and provide a thoroughly annotated species list; I would inevitably get frustrated by my consistently inferior species tally at each site. These documents, and quite a few other trip reports which I did not make as much use of, were converted in PDF format and downloaded onto my Samsung Galaxy. Additionally, I downloaded maps of each of the states I visited from Zonu.com, but I never managed to blow them up properly on the phone, which made them difficult to use. Luckily my Sygic GPS, which I also downloaded on my phone, was entirely sufficient for my orientation; I often used it simply as a map. Please forgive me for referring to birds by their scientific names; I realize that it probably less convenient for most readers, and in fact in does cost me a little extra effort to use them. I insist nonetheless on using scientific names because it is such a more rational, orderly, and well, scientific, nomenclature. The bird list accompanying this report gives both names side by side, so you can always refer to the list to find the common name. 7 Iguazú The first afternoon rented a bike in Puerto Iguazú at a place near the hostel I was staying at, a bit out of the main town on the road southeast. I did this because car rental is quite expensive in Argentina and I imagined that it would be even more so at such a touristy location. From there I rode to the falls, stopping on the way a few times to look at birds. The road is quite busy with lots of trucks and buses and is not much fun. At the park I paid the entrance fee to go in (around 250 pesos, 1 USD to 8 pesos at the time) even though I only had about 2 hours left; did green trail and Garganta del Diablo. Did see a few decent birds both on road and in park despite not great weather. Not wanting to ride back at night I managed to take a bus, with the bike in the luggage compartment below; unfortunately there was not much room and I broke the handle as I took it out, and had to pay 200 pesos to the rental man. Next day took a bus to falls and had it drop me off at the turnoff left to the falls; birded around there for the morning, decent activity, only Capsiempis flaveola of trip. A random car and an official park vehicle both stopped to ask what I was doing and discourage me from walking along the main road because it was supposedly dangerous (smugglers); not sure how much of a threat there really is. In the early PM I visited the Jardín de los Picaflores in town, address in Clayton Burne's report. Overall I think what I did in the morning was a good way to visit Iguazú on the cheap. Sao Francisco de Paula - Cambará do Sul area On the first day I hesitated going towards Vacarias since it was mentioned in J Minns's site notes as a good site for a few grassland/wetland birds. For this reason I took the road N from Puerto Alegre, and then turned E at Nova Petrópolis when I realized by reading the Birdquest report that I could see the same stuff near SF de Paula which would spare me a long drive. However this means I ended up doing a detour to SF de Paula; I thought I might get to see some good forest species on the way, but not much, though go through some nice German-looking towns. For a few km before SF de Paula, coming from the SW, there is some native forest on the hillside which probably has some good species, although being lower down might not have so much "upland forest" specialties. Unfortunately the following day was windy. Spent much of the morning looking for grassland/wetland specialties. Right at the edge of town there are 2 small marshes that you pass if you drive along the road bypassing the main town along its northern side. Driving east, one is on the south (townwards) side, and the other is on the north side next to a sawmill. They do not look like much but they are in fact the biggest wetlands I saw in the area. About 15 km NE on the road to Tainhas and Cambará I saw some good species in the grassland; there are also a few damp areas which again could hold some wetland birds. I drove all the way past Cambará do Sul, seeing some forest species even in pine plantations and less surprisingly in native forest, both before and after Cambará. In Cambará I went straight through town thus taking the deadend road east instead of turning right which brings you onto the road south-east like I think the Birdquest tour did. Aparadas da Serra National Park is near Cambará but it never is really clear where it is, how to get there or when you actually enter it. For all I know I actually was in it; although much of the habitat clearly was being exploited it seems that Brazil can be pretty lax about economic activity within protected areas. Looking at Google Earth it seems that if I had followed my road till the end I would have reached similar habitat as what the road southeast goes though: natural grassland near the edge of the plateau and native forest on the escarpment. The road I took never seems to make it off the plateau, but it seems there are trails heading down through the forest (lots of photos there on Google Earth). 2 nights in SF at Pousada do Mirão for 30 reais per night. A bit cold and I think blankets possibly insufficient. I broke a bed frame by sitting on it (perhaps had one prato feito too many), but was not charged anything. They let me cook in their kitchen. 8 Rhea americana Greater Rhea, Trilha Talha Mar Mostardas area I did 2 trails that lead to the ocean from the main road: Trilha Talha Mar and Trilha das Dunas (Dunes trail). This area is quite well explained in J Minns's notes. Talha Mar first goes through some grassland and plantations, then reaches and crossed the Lagoa do Peixe. When I was there the road was partially flooded, but luckily shallow enough (about 50 cm deep) to get through. On the inland side of the lagoon there is mostly very short damp grass, and actually walked out to the left to some stands of rushes (or some kind of similar plant), because I thought that was where Birdquest had seen several birds; actually they had walked on the other side of the lagoon. I had bought some gum boots the evening before on purpose for the occasion, but some canals were still too deep and I got wet up to mid-thigh. There are various species of waterbirds in the grasslands, most of which you can see from the road. In the rushes I saw a few species, all of which I again found at the wetlands on the Trilha das Dunas; so it was barely worth it (only Anthus lutescens seen on trip). On the other side of the lagoon you very quickly get to the dunes. Between the lagoon and the zone of mostly barren sand there is a strip of tall grass where, walking around, I found Spartonoica maluroides, Asthenes hudsoni, and Geositta cunicularia at the edge of the dunes. Birdquest also saw Nycticryphes semicollaris somewhere in this zone. The road then proceeds several further km through the dunes; at this point there actually is no road at all anymore, just tracks of other vehicles to follow. The tracks do diverge (eventually either disappearing or mostly merging again) and some might follow a better path than others. The sand is mostly pretty compact, but in some places less so and there is a risk of getting stuck. At the end the tracks lead to a small settlement (empty when I came) and then open out onto the beach. I saw several shorebirds, and on the first day when there was a sideshore wind from the SW, 2 species of Thalassarche. The Trilha das Dunas is pretty straightforward; it eventually leads to the coastal town called Balneário de Mostardas, for which the road is indicated in Mostardas. Most of the road does not have many birds except for the segment that traverses some wetlands. Here I got Limnornis curvirostris, Phleocryptes melanops, Tachuris rubrigastra, and Amblyramphus holosericeus. 9 Start of Trilha das Dunas: 31°06'37"S 50°54'28"W First night in Tavares, at a hotel at the beginning of a road of the west side of the main elongated "square", for 30 reais. Phleocryptes melanops Wren-like Rushbird, near Trilha Talha Mar Barigui park Birdquest mentioned that they went to this park in Curitiba to look for Clibanornis dendrocolaptoides, so I thought I would try for this species here too. Arriving in Curitiba with a night bus from Porto Alegre, I left my 2 suitcases in the guarda malas at the rodoviaria (bus terminal), and took a taxi to the park. I think this was much more pleasant than taking driving a rental car through town and then worrying about getting stuff stolen; the price was very reasonable, though we almost got sagitally flattened between two buses (the driver was a bit reckless). The driver let me off by the restaurant in the southern part, and I walked north along the main paved road which is full of joggers. I played Clibanornis vocalizations a few times by the river but got nothing. Near the northern end I got to a path going up into the forest which covers the hill on the right. There is actually a whole network of trails in this small forest, and on one of the narrower ones I actually heard 2 Clibanornis (which I did not immediately recognize despite having played the song all morning), eventually getting brief but decent looks. The main paved path going into the forest enters the forest at 25°25'11''S 49°18'18''W. São José dos Pinhais There is a site for Scytalopus iraiensis near SJ dos Pinhais mentioned by J Minns. The instructions are mostly good, but there are a few inaccuracies. The turnoff is not a 622.5 km but 620.5. When you turn off the main road, first you have a regular turnoff, where you will go up and parallel to the main road, and then you reach a few houses and the wall that is mentioned. There is no longer an Argus Aves sign on the wall; there is something else written with some drawings instead, which I cannot remember. The road at first is narrow and goes between 10 some houses, and just does not seem like a road that might lead anywhere beyond. It was not that clear where the house mentioned was. I drove 2.0 km past the second of the 2 intersections, past a wide bend to the left, to where there is a house on the left with a track passing next to it which leads to the site. The house is now vacant and the gate closed. There is also a house before the bend that looks like it could be the one mentioned in the site notes; this first one is partly in the forest. The one I went to is more in the open, with forest in back and a big field on the left, and there is a Petrobras sign saying something unclear. I talked to a farmer next door, whom I did not really understand, but it seems like Petrobras made a pipeline go through the property and is preventing development; to me this actually seems like a good thing but the farmer thought it was a pity. The owner has now left, but there are 3 dogs, of thankfully moderate dimensions. I left the car near the gate, climbed over the gate and walked along the dirt road all the way down to the swamp at the bottom. There are some cows here which scared me a bit; they were very wary of me, and my, those horns. The part of the wetlands which I first reached seem to be in the process of being taken over by shrubby vegetation; looking at it on Google Earth you can see a sector which has a grid of ditches and a few planted eucalypts. Luckily there still is a central grassy part which I walked to. Unfortunately I did not bring my gumboots so I got my lower legs wet. I did not see or hear the bird, even after playing its song on my phone. Did see 2 Emberizoides ypiranganus. All in all not great fun, very wet and muddy all the way. However it seems that had I driven 1.5 (more like 1.4) km as mentioned on the site notes I might have reached a better site. My guess is that the first house on the left, in the forest is the one that Jeremy Minns was referring to. Looking at Google Earth it seems there is a road here that also leads to the swamp, and to a part with more intact habitat. The turn right in front of the wall is at 25°37'10"S 49°10'03"W. The track to the swamp through the first property starts at 25°36'53"S 49°08'52"W. The track to the swamp through the second property starts at 25°36'53"S 49°08'33"W. Volta Velha There are 2 main trails here, one starting on the southern side of the plantation and one on the northern side. The trail on the southern side is where I saw Tangara peruviana and Phylloscartes kronei. It leads to the river and then follows it more or less closely. The trail on the N side had some other good species but not restinga specialties (but I spent more time on the S track). The N trail actually makes a loop, and is not as long as the S trail. To get to the N trail, turn left at the first fork in the road W out of Itapoá, then turn right again 100 meters later, after having passed the large clearing with houses on the left. The trail starts at the end of the track. To get to the S trail, turn left at the first fork, left at the second, and left again 50 meters later (where going right leads to a thatched-roof house). From there just follow the mainest track to the forest edge, leave vehicle there and proceed by foot. Because it had been raining a lot, the roads were very muddy, and I got my Fiat Uno stuck on the road to the south track on the way back. I spent a long time placing palm fronds under the tyres and trying to extricate myself, eventually succeeding. Later I would discover that in the process I had completely pulverised much of my front left tyre. A front-wheel-drive car with quite smooth tyres is just not adequate for this kind of situation. Unfortunately there was another muddy patch further on, through which, for fear of getting stuck again, I drove much too fast and ended in the ditch. I walked back to the buildings and met a guy, hunting for small birds, who fetched his friend who got out his tractor; together the 3 of us rode back very slowly to the car and eventually got it out, essentially undamaged. I would then in Garuva get the tyre changed for a used one for only 70 reais. Road out of Itapoá to Volta Velha begins at 26°05'02"S 48°36'51"S S trail begins at 26°05'17"S 48°38'29"W 2 nights at Nil's, 60 reais per night (bargained down from 80 I think). Nice but poor sound insulation, and had some trouble with shower. 11 N of Garuva: Formicivora acutirotris site Here Jeremy Minns is a bit disoriented. From the rodoviaria in Garuva you don't go south, you go east (towards Guaratuba, like he says), and then you turn NNE. Otherwise the instructions are good; I found the Formicivora, although it was not really clear if it was at the site mentioned; I think I saw them at the 17 km mark, but I did not see anything suitable at the 15.5 km mark. At any rate the marsh was not very big, and one could easily miss the "marshiness" of the place; it is just a patch of long grassy vegetation. Monte Crista I did not see any birds here that I did not see elsewhere; at lower elevations I saw mostly species like the more common species at Itatiaia or Intervales, near the top more like Agulhas Negras. I did see the only Buteo brachyurus of the trip from the suspension bridge. I had seen on Google Earth that there were lots of photos on this mountain and guessed that there must be a trail; I found the trailhead on Google Earth. I drove there the evening before for a reconnaissance visit, and asked the man at a nearby house if it was straightforward to get to the top. He made a little map for me to explain which path to take at the forks. After crossing the suspension bridge, you turn right immediately and cross under the bridge. Then you follow the path, ford the river (bring gumboots or go barefoot), and keep going for a while until you reach a fork. At the fork turn right; then for a long time there is no fork and the path actually goes down several times. Then at a small cleared area there is a choice of 3 paths; take the middle one (a bit to the left). From there it is a long steep climb to the top. Parking lot (next to bridge): 26°05'40"S 48°53'02" Night in Garuva, at Hotel Theodoro, which is part of a complex which includes a gas station and a diner where many trucks stop when entering town. 55 reais. Trucks were loud (usual for this kind of place), but it was fine with earplugs. Nystalus chacuru White-eared Puffbird, Canastra 12 Canastra Most of this site is well explained in J Minns's and J vd Woude's notes. When taking the road to the upper part there is a site at the foot of the hill part which I visited in the early morning and where I encountered a few interesting species. It is a road to the right towards a campground which starts right where the main road begins the steep climbThe habitat here is partly grazed open cerrado, with some trees, and gallery forest nearby. This is what I call site B in the list (for base or bottom (of hill)). In the list "Canastra low part" means the forest within the park limits near the bottom of the waterfall. The park here is officially closed until 8 am but you can actually walk right in, without climbing over any kind of gate, and the hut at the entrance seems empty before. When I came back out in the mid-morning I just walked out without paying; I would have paid if someone was at the desk but everyone was busy elsewhere and I was not going to wait so I could pay. I saw lots of birds around a clearing that you reach by going right immediately after entering. Across the clearing a path follows the river and then soon reaches some toilet buildings. The road that continues west past the turnoff right to the "Canastra low part" is what I call the "Canastra road W". The cerrado here seems quite good, although much of it is grazed. At the first intersection a few km further I turned left, and this road goes up to higher elevations where, like at the upper part of Canastra park, there is open grassland. Here of course it is occasionally grazed by cattle so the grass is shorter and there are less termite mounds. This is "Canastra road W upper part". 2 first nights in a campground near São Roque for 30 reais, third next to Canastra low part for 25 reais. Both were ok, the first was better because it had a restaurant, and an outdoor electrical socket. Cipó Unfortunately it was windy the entire time during my time here, especially at the top where it was very strong, even in the morning. Elaenia chiriquensis Plain-crested Elaenia, Cipó 13 What is not mentioned J Minns's or J vd Woude's reports is that the park itself is actually good for various species, different from the ones at the upper part. I actually fared a lot better in the park, despite the wind and midday heat. After about 1 km there is a trail which leads toward the other entrance and also joins another trail which passes though some very wet-looking riparian forest. Just following the main trail you go through patches of drier cerrado forest, scrub and some open grassland. Concerning the upper part, there is no longer a sign that say "olhe, admire", but there is still a large parking area with a kind of conical roof-type structure (sorry for the bad description). Right across the road there is a faint trail going up the hill (recognize it by the trash at the beginning). From there I went up and then left to a hillside that was best protected from the easterly wind, where there were quite a few Augastes scutatus; I saw and heard none in the windier parts. Did not see any other specialties. Night at a pousada in upper part of Cipó town, right next to the campground, with green lighting at night on the grounds. Because I said I wanted to go camping, but the owner of the campground was not there, the owner of the pousada gave me a room for 25 reais a night. Caetes This is again quite well explained in J Minns's notes. The "bridge" is barely noticeable (listen for running water). The first gate was open when I was there. I crawled under the second gate and made my way up to the main buildings. There I asked the first guy I met if I could visit the place; he said he was not the owner and called up some other guy who said yes. This man and another with him were nice and offered some breakfast. They invited me to bring my car up to the main buildings, which I did. I walked around the whole morning, taking my car to the farther section. In reality the place is not very big and bringing the car in was not necessary. When I wanted to leave it was a bit complicated because I did not have the keys to the second gate and no one was at the main buildings. The first man I found did have the keys but he seemed annoyed at having to come with me to open it; naturally I had to bring him back to where he was, so I spent at least 15 minutes trying to leave. Turnoff from main road: 20°30'56"S 40°59'10"W Night at hotel L3 in Fruteiras, decent and quite cheap. Santa Teresa and Augusto Ruschi Well explained by the others. There is a good hummingbird feeding zone at the Museo Mello Leitão, and even quite a few other birds. According to Birdquest (and I realized this too late) there are also some feeders at the "admin buildings of Augusto Ruschi reserve; but I did not want to linger lest I run into trouble since I did not have a permit. To me the lower road at Augusto Ruschi (the road right at the admin building), which leads to a plantation but seems like a dead end, seems better than the upper road which leads to some other town. The reason being that much of the upper road goes through what looks like second growth; only near where it exits the park (the downhill segment) does the forest look more pristine. The bottom road goes through good forest for several kilometers. Night at Pousada Rauny in Santa Teresa (on the left on the main road going west, a bit before it turns right), for 40 reais. Reserva Natural do Vale do Rio Doce (Vale) ("Linhares") I regret not having stayed in the area longer. Unsurprisingly many of the species I saw here I did not see elsewhere, and I missed many of the species I could have seen had I stayed longer. Vale is an annoying place to go birding, especially for someone like me who likes to be on his own. You are not allowed to enter the forest without a guide, but the park no longer provides any guides apparently. However they do have the numbers of 14 various (non-affiliated) guides who are allowed to visit the park only if they have someone to guide. I had read what Minns and vd Woude said about this site and, afraid of not being able to visit due to the guides being booked out, on the road from Cipó to Caetes I called Vale from a hotel who charged me extravagant amounts for a few short calls (though actually the receptionist ended up doing most of the talking because I could not understand). The hotel gave me the number of a bird guide called Gustavo, whom I then called for free from someone's cell phone, and booked a day at Vale a few days hence. However when I got to Vale at 6 like we had agreed, he was nowhere to be found. When I (with the help of the owner of the hotel in Sooretama) called up Gustavo that evening, he was not happy and it turned out he had driven all the way from his home in Vitória to Vale and back the evening before (about 4-5 hours total). Apparently I was supposed to stay at the hotel in Vale and he was then going to spend the night there too. Since I had spent the night at a hotel in Linhares, he thought I had simply changed plans and decided not to go birding in Vale after all. I was actually quite happy he did not show since I prefer to be on my own; I walked around the hotel (more like bungalow) grounds for a while in case he might show up, and then at 8, seeing that the gate into the forest was open, I drove in and parked the car in the estrada sem saída (no exit; second or third right along the main road), so that it would remain out of view. Unfortunately when I wanted to leave in the late afternoon the gate was closed, so I had to walk back to the entrance to ask for the keys. It took about 15 minutes before the warden understood what I wanted to do, but he then gave me the keys without hesitation and seemed in no way unhappy about my having entered the forest. For most of the days I walked around the forest within a few km of where I parked the car (i.e. the part close to the entrance). I did see a Crax blumenbachii here so it does not seem to be necessary to drive 20 km into the forest to see one, although maybe they are more common over there. I did meet a few people (jogger, bicyclists, cars), none of whom told me off for being in the forest without permission. (I did run into the forest the first few times I heard a car). After having already left and checked in at my hotel in Sooretama I realized that the price for staying at Vale was 120 reais and not 720 like I had first thought (100 sounds the same as 7 to me). Staying at Vale might have allowed me to again visit the same patch of forest (and get there at dawn this time), so I slightly regretted not having stayed. However what I really regret is not having visited Sooretama. Previous night at a roadside hotel in Linhares for 70-something reais. Following night in Sooretama at Hotel Lider for 50 reais. The owner went far out of his way to help me get a guide for the next day even though I did not really ask him to. He called many people up until it became clear that there was nothing to be done, all free of charge and good-naturedly. The room was good, the car was safe in a closed parking lot. Reserva Biológica de Sooretama First of all I never went here. I actually went to the IBAMA office in Linhares, getting there exactly at 17:00 which is the closing time, in the afternoon after having visited Caetes. Of course 5pm is when the workers actually exit the building, not when you can last be attended. This actually did not really matter because, talking to some worker who was leaving, it turned out that IBAMA no longer delivers permits for Sooretama, this task having now been delegated to an agency called ICMBio. This was Friday evening and I was not going to wait unitil Monday to get a permit for ICMBio, nor did I want to drive back into Vitória if it could be avoided. For Augusto Ruschi it turned out not to be a problem; the roads are clearly public so it would be crazy to ask for a permit. For Sooretama this was not the case. Driving along the main road north of Linhares, I parked at the the turnoff left through the forest mentioned by others. I talked an employee at the guard office, who said the reserve could not be visited. He did not mention the possibility of obtaining a permit; on the other hand I did not mention that I was a birder; he said that visitors were mainly limited to schoolchildren on field trips. Discouraged by this and realizing that it would be very difficult to enter the forest from here undetected, I decided to give up on the whole area and head to Rio de Janeiro state. I now realize that this was stupid because I am almost sure I could still have visited the forest by driving to Van der Woude's GPS 115, hiding the car somewhere (or just leaving it outside the forest) and walking around from there. I don't know why I did not do that. Concerning the permit issue, my guess is that it is pretty difficult to obtain one; I mean, why would Birdquest miss out on the chance of getting Thripophaga macroura and Dysithamnus plumbeus? 15 Cabo Frio area I did not know much about this site and did not have clear instructions on where to go since Minns and vd Woude do not cover it. Doing an internet search I did manage to find this document: http://www.jourlib.org/paper/934846#.Vcotxfmqqko. It gives an overview of the sites where Formicivora littoralis is known to occur; this being the main target here. I ended up going to Praia do Peró and Praia de Massabamba. For Praia do Peró I took the obvious road leading to the beach from the main road between Buzios and Cabo Frio. On Google Earth you can clearly see it goes through a sandy area. A few 100 meters before reaching the beach I walked out to the left into the restinga. It is difficult to get very far because the vegetation becomes very dense after a few 100 meters. Luckily I still managed to find 2 pairs, though only by playing the song of F. serrana on my phone (sounds similar; my recording F. littoralis was not loud enough). I then went to Praia de Massabamba. No F. littoralis but 2 Hemitriccus nidipendulus. From the road that passes between the Lagoa de Araruama and the ocean, where it is between the second and third peninsulas from the east sticking out into the lagoon, I walked left along a sandy track. On the road from Praia do Peró to Cabo Frío there are some ponds which had some waterbirds. From reading other reports there seem to be more aquatic-bird sites but I do not know where they are. Turnoff to Praia do Peró: 22°50'19"S 41°59'40"W Praia de Massabamba: 22°55'42"S 42°14'52"W Previous night in downtown Buzios, at Che Lagarto hostel. Classic hostel for young tourists, and it was actually quite full. There was a locker but I had to buy the lock for 17 reais. Phyllomyias fasciatus Planalto Tyrannulet, Regua 16 Regua I spent 1 afternoon, 1 full day and 1 morning here, plus a day-long guided excursion to Pico Caledonia with Nicholas, a new guide called Igor, and 4 other birders. Getting around Regua is not too hard because there is always someone to ask for directions. The yellow and brown trails are obvious; the other sites might be trickier to find. To get to the green trail, having turned left at the sign Regua 1 km, instead of taking the last bend left before reaching Regua, keep going straight for several km until you reach a house on your right called "casa de Pesquisa". Here you can leave your vehicle and keep walking up the road (or keep driving); to get to the waterfall, take the path right after a kilometer or so. There is a site nearby that is good for several wetland birds ("Gallinago undulata site" in the list). On an evening visit I saw or heard Porzana albicollis, Gallinago paraguaiae and undulata, Furnarius figulus, and Gubernetes yetapa. The group who went the day before saw the same species. To get there, take the road back south for a few kilometers, and 2.5 kilometers after having joined the paved road take the dirt road on the right, from there drive a further 1.2 km to reach the site. For a few hundred meters before and past this point, on the right side of the road, there is a flat damp area where I saw the species mentioned above. Administation building: 22°27'09"S 42°46'13"W Gallinago undulata site: 22°28'54"S 42°45'39"W (the road is a bit narrow so park where it seems the widest nearby). Slept below in the helper's houses; in effect I had a great suite to myself. Maybe they would prefer I did not reveal the price I got, but it was decent and included good daily buffet meals. Pico da Caledônia I took a guided tour here, but I thought it was all right because I still found lots of the species by myself. In fact I often would walk ahead of the group while the group waiting for something to appear; this strategy came to an end in the afternoon when, coming back to report what I had found up ahead, I chased off a Tijuca atra, at which point Nicholas scolded me for disrupting the tour; fair enough. Luckily he quickly recovered his bonhomie. It was cloudy all day (and we were in the cloud on the upper road that goes to the peak) but we still saw quite a lot, and interestingly the activity seemed quite constant throughout the day; for instance Tijuca atra was singing all day. We first birded along a road that apparently went right up to the peak, and which is closed by a gate quite high up, but Nicholas seemed to know the people there and we could have gone up further if we had wished. The road here is very steep, and many vehicles might not make it up (we changed from bus to pickup farther down). In the afternoon we went birding along another road that is accessed by turning right at one point instead of left towards the peak ("Caledonia road right"). In the late afternoon we stopped at 2 sites a bit further down on the road, below the fork whose roads lead to one of the aforementioned sites or the other. The first site was to see 3 Cariama cristata whose tameness bespoke regular feeding by locals; the second site yielded Phacellodomus erythrophthalmus and Arremon semitorquatus, after Igor played their respective songs. The roads here are a bit complicated and partly because I was not driving I do not remember too well what roads we took. After looking at Google Earth for a while I believe that the higher road that leads to the peak is the one which on Google Earth is marked in white until 22°20'28"S 42°34'54"W. We kept on going higher than that and left the car when we had left the last eucalypt stands. I believe that the fork is at 22°19'55"S 42°34'50"W. It seems that many people take a road further left, that leads to a trail along the ridge. This road starts at 22°20'42" 42°33'29". 17 Formicivora serrana Serra Antwren, Carmo Carmo Again this site is quite well covered by my Minns's and vd Woude's notes. I do not know if one can still expect to see Cercomacra brasiliana here; Birdquest did not see it and Nicholas seemed to indicate that to see it one had to go to some other area, but in fact he never mentioned the road, only the hill. Instead this place is now known for its Formicivora serrana, as well as Jacamaralycon. Unfortunately there is also a Carmo road in Intervales which can lead to some confusion. In the list, when referring to the Carmo road in Intervales I have tried to always specify "Intervales Carmo road". For the road near the town of Carmo I simply say Carmo road and, further down the list, I specify whether I saw the species at the first or second stop I made along it. When I told Nicholas that I wanted to visit the Carmo area, he gave me instructions for visiting a hill where the Jacamaralcyon reside; he had been to the Carmo area himself a few days before. This hill is right next to the town in Carmo, and has an antenna at the top which is readily visible from the central square. To get there I would suggest to ask someone or have a look on Google Earth. Unfortunately I did not properly understand Nicholas's instructions and drove to the bottom of the hill on the south side, from where I scrambled up one of several makeshift paths that the locals have made themselves up the very steep hillside; I made it to the top but never saw any Jacamaralycon, who are supposed to be around the antenna. Again judging from Google Earth, it seems that the proper way to get there is from the northeast. On Carmo road I stopped at 2 places where the road goes through forest. The first stop is 1.7 km after the beginning of the road. Here I got Jacamaralcyon tridactyla. The second stop, where I got Formicivora serrana, is about 6 km after the beginning. Here there is a track going up on the left side of the road; crossing over the barbed wire I followed it for about 100 meters and reached a large field; looking uphill, the Formicivora was singing in the forest above and to the left, but was already audible from the road. After I played its song on my phone it promptly came over to investigate. At this second site the road makes a dogleg, and passes through some more forest with a wider driveway again going up on the left in the forest; this is not the track I took. I also went past the marsh mentioned by John van der Woude on the "third Sumidouro road", but no marsh birds (maybe too late in the morning). End of road to Carmo Hill from NE: 21°56'13"S 42°36'48"W Carmo road First stop: 21°54'59"S 42°35'41"W 18 Carmo road Second stop: 21°53'42"S 42°33'45"W Night at Hotel Portugal, 60 reais, on NW side of main square. There is only one other hotel in town, just past this one. My room's window gave onto the hallway, and had slats that could not be closed, so bad sound insulation. Ramphastos dicolorus Red-breasted Toucan, Itatiaia Itatiaia Not much more to add to J vd Woude. The Maromba trail, heading right from the main road up, is easy to miss, and there is not much room to park. This was one of the sites with the loudest dawn chorus in the trip. I spent the morning on the Maromba and Tres Picos trails, then hent to Hotel Ypê for a late lunch and finally walked a while along the beginning of the “jeep trail”. Night at a pousada in Itatiaia town (on road up to park, on the left at a corner), 70 reais. You can bring your car in right up to your door. The music from the restaurant was loud, even past 10 pm; my earplugs were put to good use. Agulhas Negras Easy to find, but hard to obtain cheap accommodation, and I did not want to go all the way to Itamonte to find a place to sleep, so I slept in the car on the Agulhas Negras road. It was ok, I had a thick blanket and no cars came by. It seems I stopped just before reaching the fork, with the road right leading to the peak. I never went higher than that because I saw 1 Oreophylax moreirae in the shrubby vegetation just before the fork, though it would have been nice to go to the top just for the scenery. Perequê Never saw or heard any Formicivora erythronotos. It was not very clear if I got to the precise sites mentioned by J 19 Minns, but I certainly was not far. Probably a morning visit would have provided greater chances of success. I played the song regularly, but my recording was very quiet so not sure it would have been effective. The intersection where you turn left (keeping the football field on your left) is 23°00'20"S 44°32'08"W. From there on just keep following the main road. Ubatuba Again well covered by others' notes. Missed essentially all the specialties. Was windy in PM on both days. Did not visit Capricôrnio because J vd Woude managed to deter me, but maybe I should have. For Angelim I sent an email on the day before my first visit; I know this was too late, and unexpectedly I never got a reply. I just strolled in anyway, and various workers saw me but presumably assumed I had obtained the owner’s authorization. For birders who surf, there were surfable waves at the left end of the Praia Grande. All the other beaches seem to get their swell blocked by one topographical obstacle or another. I did not rent a board because it was quite crowded and the level was high (it seemed everyone who stood up was doing neat cutbacks and occasionally popping a 360 at the end). Beginning of Corcovado trail: 23°28'36"S 45°11'46"W Turnoff left to Rancho Pica Pau: 23°24'04"S 45°03'23"W Spent 2 nights at Hostel Tribu. This place is quite close to Folha Seca and Corcovado. For proximity to Angelim and nearby sites, the rancho Pica Pau seems like a nice option. Campos do Jordão area Will just try to complement what J Minns says about this site. Only visited the Horto Florestal area. The main fork is at 22°41'28"S 45°29'28"W. Go straight and you reach the Horto Florestal within a few hundred meters. Turn right and you are on the "road right from horto florestal", which goes up. If you park on this road 250 meters after the fork, there is a path that goes right for several kilometers, and a path that goes left into the Horto Florestal, which might make it possible to sneak in before opening hours (and not pay, but it's not expensive); but there is plenty of good habitat on the road right. Campephilus robustus Robust woodpecker female, Horto Florestal 20 A few km before the fork there is a campground which is the cheapest accommodation you will get in Campos. Otherwise if you follow the road right you reach a hotel which is much cheaper than anything in Campos; I went all the way there but it was closed, and I ended up sleeping at the house of a local farm hand and his wife and newborn child, for free (donated 2 bell peppers and a tiny chocolate bar). Intervales Near the Horto Florestal I got the very friendly owners of a neat little shop to help me call Intervales to book a guide since it seems that, here too, one cannot visit without a guide. My final verdict on the matter remains to be pronounced, since it seems that I managed to get away with being on my own; more on this further down. The ladies from the shop did about 10 calls in all to various employees of the park; initially they said that the bird guides were all booked out, so I was planning on taking a non-birding guide just to be allowed to walk on the trails (which I almost would have preferred), but the following day it appeared there was a guide available after all. When I arrived in the evening I met my guide at the gate, since apparently he replacing his sick friend for the night shift at the gate. His name is Renato and he guided me for very full days in Intervales. He is very kind, enthusiastic, and amazingly knowledgeable about the birds in Intervales; he can recognize the briefest and quietest call with great accuracy. Interestingly he is not mentioned on the Intervales website's list of bird guides; this made me wonder if this was not his official function, if maybe his superiors usually made him do other types if guiding, since he clearly said that he also guided people for general walks, cave exploration, and more. However I found that being guided by such an excellent birder as Renato was often frustrating. This is largely related to the idiosyncrasies in my attititude towards birding; namely, the fact that I count heard-onlies, combined with the fact that I want to find all the species on my own. I don't mind having a guide use an audio player with greater power than my own to lure a singing bird up close, as long as I recognized the vocalization before the guide tells me its identity. The problem is that I would need to be extremely familiar with the bird sounds of the region for that to be the case. What actually happened is that he would often mention, in passing, some lifer or other that he heard and that I did not quite catch, and then move on to something else. So then I was stuck with all these birds that I had actually heard but not recognized so could not count. Other times I would hear the bird well enough to be able, either to recognize it on the spot, or compare it with the recordings on my phone and thus confirm the ID, or even record the song for later confirmation. In all these cases I counted the species heard even though it still feels like a cheat since I was not the one to initially locate or identifiy the sound. However I do not blame him for these frustrating occurrences; I am sure most people he guides simply want a good look at the birds so they can take photos with their expensive, enormous-lensed cameras (In Brazil plain birding is apparently practically unheard of; bird photography is much more popular). Thus, Renato would often spend a lot of time trying to attract birds by playing their songs, either after having heard them, or at a known territory, often unsuccessfully, which I do not hold against him, even though he actually apologized for this at the end. Out of fear of offending him, I never actually dared tell him how I wanted him to act: largely more self-effacing, but also more interactive in teaching me the calls. He never did really try to teach me any vocalizations; he would often mention hearing something or other, and he would readily answer whenever I asked him what we had just heard (and I did this often), but what I really would have liked is for him to quiz me. But again, I doubt that's what most birders want, and I am not sure I could have gotten him to do that. Over the 2 days, Renato brought me to Carmo road, the wetlands near the entrance, a trail that starts by the restaurant whose name I do not remember ("restaurant trail"), an owling site 5 km back out along the access road to the park, Lageado trail, the self-guided trail, a collection of stake-outs going right instead of left to the sede de pesquisa, and a collection of stake-outs near the sede de pesquisa. After 2 days of being guided I really wanted to go back to try to see some of the species on my own. So for a full day I walked along the Carmo road, leaving my car at the sede de Pesquisa and walking on all the way till noon, and then making my way back up. I recognized a lot on my own, including several species whose vocalizations I learned from Renato (this is what I like about being guided). At the end of the day, I crossed a vehicle who passed by, and quickly asked if everything was all right (had considered plunging into bushes but I was going to leave tomorrow anyway). I kept on walking to the car and was writing up the daily list in the car when they came up to me and knocked on the window to ask what I was doing and what my plans were for the evening and the morrow. They were not menacing, on the contrary even quite friendly, but it seemed like they knew exactly who I was and what I had told Renato I had planned on doing, as if it was some kind of official schedule which 21 concerned the whole park(the evening we parted I told him I would leave the next morning after a quick birding session alone). The next morning I birded again a little around the pousada and near the beginning of Carmo road, and then checked out and left; I was never scolded for going birding on my own, but it seems I never fooled them as to what I was up to. The Intervales staff is a magnanimous big brother of sorts. To get to Carmo road: After entering and following the main road which turns sharply left, take the second road right, signposted to "sede de Pesquisa". Then take the first very sharp road left. This road will swerve right, join the road that takes you back to the entrance area (these are one way roads and you are supposed to make a loop), take you pass the sede de pesquisa (small building on right), swerve right and finally lead to a gate, which marks the beginning of the Carmo road. There is a trail going off to the right where the road turns left before the gate. Within the first 100 meters or so there was a Grallaria varia territory (heard on two days). To get to Lageado trail: From entrance follow road, veer left and take first right, past pousada Onça Pintada, and continue for 3.5 km after having turned right. Here there is a smaller road to the left, still passable for a car. If I remember correctly at one point the road just turns into a footpath and this is Lageado. This place is now well known for Platyrinchus mystaceus. I do not have the exact coordinates, but I remember this: at one point the is a fork in the trail, and you fork left. From there it is a few hundred meters to the site. Apparently there is a river further on; if you get near you are too far, and the birding there is not very good because of the noise. Close to the beginning of the trail Renato recognized a Triclaria malachitacea which was perched above us. Trogon rufus Black-throated Trogon male, Intervales 22 The restaurant trail has a different official name which I cannot remember. I call it this because it starts right in front of the restaurant, heading east as a continuation to the main road which leads to the restaurant. It passes through largely exploited habitat, with lots of eucalyptus; nonetheless there are lots of birds here. Glaucidium minutissimum was attracted by Renato's device at a known spot. The bird was initially in forest on a hill to the left. The location on the path where we called it was at a kind of clearing, with a slightly elevated artificially flat area on the left, and I think some conifers to the left of the track on the east side of the clearing. After the clearing the road soon turns right; when it goes back left and a bit up there is a steep hill on the right where we heard Dromococcyx pavoninus and Caprimulgus sericocaudatus. On the left heard and attracted Batara cinerea and Mackenziaena severa. After turning right at the sign for the sede de pesquisa, if you then follow the road right intstead of turning sharply left to go to the sede, you get to some small houses which appear to be the employees' residences, just after an almost 180 degree curve to the left, followed by a fork. Right around the fork, in the forest below, is the first site for Merulaxis ater, where 1 was heard after playing song. Just a bit further (keeping left, i.e. straight, at the fork) there was another territory above on the right, and we saw 2. Now my memory is a little sketchy and I wonder if there is not a nearby site that I am forgetting; as far as I can recall, continuing still a little further (or maybe even before) we saw Neopelma chrysolophum after playing its song, and then saw one spontaneously still further (at most 300 meters), and very close by a Hemitriccus obsoletus, also after playing song. The “rail feeder” is just a small patch of mud at the edge of the marsh on the left side of the road about 50 meters past the gate; there is no actual feeder structure. The Megascops santctaecatarinae site is, from the park entrance gate, 4.9 km back out on the access road. We heard it singing from a stand of trees about 500 meters from the road, on the western side. First site for Merulaxis ater: 24°16'13"S 48°25'14"W. Beginning of Carmo road: 24°16'34"S 48°25'04"W Turnoff to Lageado trail: 24°15'43"S 48°26'30"W Glaucidium minutissimum site (almost certain): 24°16'00"S 48°23'38"W Megascpos sanctaecatarinae site: 24°13’31”S 48°24’37”W I stayed at the pousada Esquilo for 74 reais per night. Mogi das Cruzes Near Mogi there are several wetlands, one of which is mentioned by Jeremy Minns for being a reliable site for Formicivora paludicola (the long-awaited newly coined name for this local specialty). I went there and got a pair come very close after playing song on my phone several times. I call this "Formicivora site near Mogi". The swamp is on the right side of the road coming from Mogi, and there is no path; at the sharp bend in the road I parked and just traipsed out a little ways with my gumboots and played the song. On the road to the Formicivora site, there is a marsh on the right side of the road, just after it first bends to the left after the initial straight segment. At this bend, a track to the right keeps going in the initial direction of the main road, and the marsh is wedged between the main road and this track. Here I saw a pair of Gubernetes yetapa and a pair of Oryzyborus angolensis. I call this place "Gubernetes site near Mogi". Just along the initial straight segment of the road, at one point there is a pond visible on the left (i.e. east), with various waterbirds ("pond near Mogi") Night at Hotel (and brothel) VIP in downtown Mogi das Cruzes, 40 reais “Gubernetes site”: 23°31’44”S 46°08’55”W “Formicivora site”: 23°32’31”S 46°47’00”W 23 Mackenziaena leachii Large-tailed Antshrike, Agulhas Negras Bird list The bird list is arranged by taxonomic order but it might seem unfamiliar to some. Indeed this list deviates significantly from the "classic" sequence (although by now I am not too sure what that might be) to reflect recent discoveries in avian phylogeny borne by molecular research. Initially I started by gleaning information from Wikipedia rather than by going directly to the source. Then I started to look for papers on avian phylogeny and arranged several clades based on these papers, and following the IOC list when no other source was available. However in the end I stumbled upon the TiF (taxonomy in flux) list, which is the very impressive accomplishment of a single man named John Boyd, who is not even a professional ornithologist. His list, which classifies all 10000 or so bird species on earth, essentially follows the same principles as I wanted for my list, and keeps up to date with the most recent findings; as such it is constantly updated, hence the "in flux". In the end I have decided to almost entirely follow the TiF list (version 3.05); a few times I do not follow it exactly if it appears that it should have been arranged differently based on the cladogram presented by Boyd for the group in question. In particular, when considering two sister clades, I consider the "derived" clade (which is the one to come after the" basal" clade) to be the one where occurred the most ancient split between surviving lineages within the clade. Boyd on the other hand will sometimes place a species-rich clade after a sister clade which is species-poor but has greater diversity of higher-level taxa. I recorded a total of 496 native species in Brazil, and 683 over the course of my entire trip in Argentina and Brazil. 24 Asthenes moreirae Itatiaia Spinetail, Agulhas Negras Rhea americana Greater Rhea several groups in Mostardas area, including one of about 50, along main road and on Talha Mar Tinamus solitarius Solitary Tinamou 1 seen on Monte Crista, pair seen in Vale, 1 heard at Folha Seca and at Angelim, several heard and pair and 2 separate seen in Intervales, likely pair seen at Volta Velha Crypturellus obsoletus Brown Tinamou heard in many places, possibly seen in Volta Velha Crypturellus noctivagus Yellow-legged Tinamou 1 seen at Volta Velha Crypturellus parvirostris Small-billed Tinamou 1 heard at Canastra at bottom of ascent to high part (site B) Crypturellus tatupa Tataupa Tinamou 1 heard on Regua brown trail Rhynchotus rufescens Rufous-winged Tinamou 1 heard at Canastra high part Nothura maculosa Spotted Nothura several heard in grassland about 15 km NE of SF de Paula and at beginning of Talha Mar trail, 1 seen on main road near Mostardas Chauna torquata Southern Screamer multiple at Talha Mar near Lagoa and at Dunes trail wetlands Dendrocygna viduata White-faced Whistling-Duck multiple in wetland N of Vitória, and several in pond near Mogi Coscoroba coscoroba Coscoroba Swan quite a few on Talha Mar at Lagoa and Dunes trail wetlands Cygnus melancoryphus Black-necked Swan at least 1 seen on Talha Mar at Lagoa Cairina moschata Muscovy Duck several in Regua ponds Callonetta leucophrys Ringed Teal pair in a pond S of Osório on road to Mostardas Anas flavirostris Speckled Teal quite a few on ponds on road to Mostardas and on Talha Mar at Lagoa Anas georgica Yellow-billed Pintail group on Talha Mar at Lagoa Anas bahamensis White-cheeked Pintail quite a few in ponds by Peró Anas versicolor Silver Teal group of 6 on Talha Mar on lagoa Amazonetta braziliensis Brazilian Teal around 20 in a pond near Cambará, quite numerous on ponds on road to Mostardas, on Talha Mar and Trilha das Dunas in wetlands, a few in Regua ponds, pair near Carmo, several in wetlands near Mogi Aburria jacutinga Black-fronted Piping-Guan 4 separate on Carmo road with guide, and 1 seen there on my own 25 Penelope obscura Dusky-legged Guan several on Itatiaia Tres Picos trail, many tame ones at Ypê hotel, a few at Agulhas Negras, small group on Carmo road in Intervales Penelope superciliaris Rusty-margined Guan small group at Vale do Rio Doce (Vale) Crax blumenbachii Red-billed Curassow 1 seen at Vale Odontophorus capueira Spot-winged Wood-Quail group heard in evening on track from restaurant (R) in Intervales and group flushed (1 then seen well) and later heard on Carmo on my own Phoenicopterus chilensis Chilean Flamingo several on Talha Mar at Lagoa Podilymbus podiceps Pied-billed Grebe 1 on a pond near Tainhas, 1 on Dunes trail wetlands Geotrygon montana Ruddy Quail-Dove 1 and 2 seen at Perequê Leptotila verreauxi White-tipped Dove regularly heard and occasionally seen; often I only heard last note which made me think it was L. rufaxilla, now I am not sure I could recognize latter's song Zenaida auriculata Eared Dove moderately common in many areas in semi-open habitats Patagioenas speciosa Scaled Pigeon several heard and 1 seen at Vale Patagioenas picazuro Picazuro Pigeon commonly heard and seen Patagioenas plumbea Plumbeous Pigeon quite a few heard and 1 seen at Caetes, quite a few heard and 1 seen in flight at Augusto Ruschi, several heard at Itatiaia, several heard and a few seen in flight at Intervales Columbina picui Picui Ground-Dove numerous on road to Mostardas Columbina squammata Scaled Dove quite common in Canastra area at lower elevations, 2 heard in Cipó park Columbina talpacoti Ruddy Ground-Dove 1 at Volta Velha in plantation, common in Canastra area at lower elevations, group of 6 in Cipó park, quite common in semi-open areas in Espírito Santo, Río de Janeiro and Ubatuba area Guira guira Guira Cuckoo regularly seen in partly open habitats, in groups Crotophaga ani Smooth-billed Ani quite common in partly open habitats Crotophaga major Greater ani group at Regua ponds and group at Gallinago undulata site Tapera naevia Striped Cuckoo 1 heard at Canastra B site, 1 h at Cipó park, 1 h in wetlands N of Vitória Dromococcyx pavoninus Pavonine Cuckoo 1 heard at Intervales on restaurant trail, picked out by Renato but I would have too on my own Piaya cayana Squirrel Cuckoo 1 on access road to Iguazú falls, 1 at Canastra high part, 1 at Caetes, 1 at Vale, 2 separate at Regua, 1 seen and 1 h at Intervales Chordeiles nancunda Nancunda Nighthawk 1 flushed at Cipó upper part, 2 flying around last toll booth on road to Intervales, 1 flying next to Guarulhos airport Nyctidromus albicollis Pauraque 1 heard at campground near São Roque, several h at Regua Gallinago site and 1 h near HQ, 1 seen on a side-road on road from Itatiaia to Agulhas Negras, 1 seen on road to Intervales, 1 seen on restaurant trail, 1 h at Megascops s. site Hydropsalis torquata Scissor-tailed Nightjar 1 in flight and 10 flushed from road on road right near Horto Florestal, and 1 at Intervales on restaurant trail Nyctiphrynus ocellatus Ocellated Poorwill 1 heard on Canastra road W, in last patch of forest Caprimulgus sericocaudatus Silky-tailed Nightjar 1 heard at Intervales on restaurant trail, recognized by Renato but I probably would have too on my own Cypseloides senex Great Dusky Swift many at Iguazú falls; however I actually thought they were C. fumigatus at first because I never saw white head (cloudy weather, always seen from below), so ID mostly based on the fact that this is supposed to be the sp. at Iguazú Streptoprocne zonaris White-collared Swift quite often seen (not in Río Grande), mostly in groups, though usually not distinguished from S. biscutata Chaetura cinereiventris Grey-rumped Swift quite often seen and heard (not in Río Grande), mostly in groups and mostly in forest Florisuga fusca Black Jacobin several at Iguazú feeders, quite numerous and dominant at Mello Leitão feeders Ramphodon naevius Saw-billed Hermit 1 at Volta Velha, 1 on Regua green trail, many at Ubatuba, likely 1 heard at Intervales on Carmo road Glaucis hirsutus Rufous-breasted Hermit at least 2 at Mello Leitão feeders, 1 at Regua by ponds Phaethornis eurynome Scale-throated Hermit several at Itatiaia, 1 on road right from Horto Florestal, 1 at Horto Florestal, several at Intervales, probably 2 together at Caetes Phaethornis pretrei Planalto Hermit 2 at Iguazú feeders, 2 together in Santa Teresa, 2 together at Mello Leitão (not at feeders) Phaethornis squalidus Dusky-throated Hermit 2 separate in Intervales, the first pointed out by Renato Phaethornis ruber Reddish Hermit 1 at Regua by ponds; in Ubatuba 2 and 1 at Corcovado, 1 at Angelim and 1 at Pica Pau campground Augastes scutatus Hyacinth Visorbearer quite a few at Cipó upper part on a W facing hillside protected from wind 26 Colibri serrirostris White-vented Violetear common in Canastra upper part and Cipó upper part, several heard in Cipó park, 1 at Mello Leitão feeders, 1 (IDd by song) on road right from Horto Florestal Heliothryx auritus Black-eared Fairy 1 female at Cipó high part at same spot as A. scutatus Clytolaema rubricauda Brazilian Ruby 2 separate on Itatiaia trails and several at Ypê feeders, quite a few at Folha Seca feeders Lophornis magnificus Frilled Coquette 1 male at Mello Leitão feeders Lophornis chalybeus Festive Coquette quite a few at Folha Seca feeders and 1 probable (either this or Discosura langsdorffii) in Regua by ponds Calliphlox amethystina Amethyst Woodstar 1 female at Eucalypts at beginning of Canastra road W Eupetomena macroura Swallow-tailed Hummingbird 1 at Iguazú feeders, quite a few at Mello Leitão feeders and Regua lodge feeders, 1 on yellow and 1 on green trail, 1 in Nova Friburgo Chlorostilbon lucidus Glittering-bellied Emerald 1 female in upper part of Canastra road W, 1 male at Cipó upper part, 1 male at Caetes in cultivated area, 1 female at Caledonia on road road right, 1 male on road right from Horto Florestal Stephanoxis lalandi Plovercrest 1 female past Cambará, several at Pico Caledonia, Agulhas Negras and road right from Horto Florestal; the southern form (seen in Cambará) potentially split to S. loddigesii Thalurania furcata Fork-tailed Woodnymph 1 male in Cipó park in wet forest Thalurania glaucopis Violet-capped Woodnymph seen at many forest sites and feeders Aphantochroa cirrochloris Sombre Hummingbird quite numerous and dominant at Mello Leitão feeders Chrysuronia versicolor Versicoloured Emerald quite numerous at Iguazú feeders, at least 2 (probably quite a few more) in Eucalypts at beginning of Canastra road W, quite a few at Mello Leitão feeders, 1 at Praia do Peró Leucochloris albicollis White-throated Hummingbird several at Iguazú feeders, 1 on Pico Caledonia on road right, 1 at Ypê feeders. Hylocharis fimbriata Glittering-throated Emerald 1 at Regua lodge feeders, around 2 at Folha Seca feeders Hylocharis lactea Sapphire-spangled Emerald 3 separate at Cipó park, 1 on road near Sumidouro, at least 2 on Carmo road Hylocharis chrysura Gilded Hummingbird several at Iguazú feeders and a few glimpsed elsewhere in town Chlorestes cyanus White-chinned Sapphire pair at Regua next to pond Pardirallus nigricans Blackish Rail 1 at rail feeder in Intervales, and 1 seen walking on the track next to the same wetlands the next evening. A Pardirallus seen in SF de Paula could have been this sp or P. sanguinolentus Aramides cajanea Grey-necked Wood-Rail 1 on road N of Garuva Aramides saracura Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail 1 seen at Regua near ponds, 1 at Itatiaia, 2 or 3 at Perequê, 2 together seen at Intervales, group heard at Formicivora site near Mogi; likely heard before Aramides ypecaha Giant Wood-Rail several at Dunes trail wetlands Porzana albicollis Ash-throated Crake several together heard briefly at Gallinago undulata site in Regua, after playing song on phone Gallinula galeata Common Gallinule 1 in pond near Cambará, numerous at Regua ponds, quite a few in pond near Mogi Fulica armillata Red-gartered Coot numerous on Talha Mar at Lagoa Porphyrio martinicus American Purple Gallinule several in Regua ponds Laterallus melanophaius Rufous-sided Crake 2 heard at Iguazú on green trail, several heard in Regua ponds and several heard in wetlands near Mogi Laterallus leucopyrrhus Red-and-white Crake 2 seen at rail feeder in Intervales Aramus guarauna Limpkin several at Dunes trail wetlands, 1 near wetlands N of Vitória Haematopus palliatus American Oystercatcher several at beach on Talha Mar Himantopus himantopus Black-winged Stilt common on Talha Mar at Lagoa, including some at beach, quite a few in wetlands N of Vitória and in Peró ponds, several in pond near Mogi Vanellus chilensis Southern Lapwing seen in various places, in open areas Charadrius semipalmatus Semipalmated Plover 2 at beach at Talha Mar and 10 there the next day Charadrius collaris Collared Plover a few in dunes and at beach on Talha Mar Charadrius modestus Rufous-chested Dotterel several on Trilha Talha Mar near the Lagoa Jacana jacana Wattled Jaçana 2 in a pond S of Osório, a few on Talha Mar near Lagoa, several at Regua and in pond near Mogi Gallinago paraguaiae South American Snipe common on Trilha Talha mar near the Lagoa, and several at Regua Gallinago undulata site singing in flight at dusk Gallinago undulata Giant Snipe 1 flushed and then several seen singing in flight at Regua site for this species Tringa melanoleuca Greater Yellowlegs several at beach on Talha Mar Chroicocephalus maculipennis Brown-hooded Gull numerous on Talha Mar at Lagoa, group at Dunes trail wetlands Larus dominicanus Kelp Gull several at various coastal sites, from Mostardas area to Praia do Peró 27 Sternula superciliaris Yellow-billed Tern moderate numbers on Talha Mar at Lagoa Phaetusa simplex Large-billed Tern small group on Talha Mar at Lagoa, only 1 there next day Thalasseus maximus Royal Tern several at beach on Talha Mar Sterna trudeaui Snowy-crowned Tern group on Talha Mar at beach Sterna hirundinacea South American Tern several at beach on Talha Mar, and 2 Sterna almost certainly this sp. in Vitória Thalassarche melanophrys Black-browed Albatross several offshore at Talha Mar beach on first day, including at least 1 adult and 1 immature and more of unknown age Thalassarche chlororhynchos Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatross 1 adult offshore at Talha Mar beach on first day Ciconia maguari Maguari Stork a few on Talha Mar around Lagoa and at least 1 at Dunes trail wetlands Fregata magnificens Magnificent Frigatebird large group at Itapema (just N of Itapoá), 1 female at Praia do Peró, 1 female at Peró town Phalacrocorax brasilianus Neotropical Cormorant numerous on Talha Mar at Lagoa and at Regua ponds Tigrisoma lineatum Rufescent Tiger-Heron 1 adult and 1 separate immature in Regua ponds Nycticorax nycticorax Black-crowned Night-Heron quite large group and 1 single near Talha Mar around Lagoa, 1 immature and 1 adult at Regua ponds Pilherodius pileatus Capped Heron 2 together at Regua ponds Syrigma sibilatrix Whistling Heron 1 by a pond near Tainhas, 2 separate on road to Mostardas, several at Talha Mar at Lagoa and Dunes trail wetlands, 2 together at Cipó park Egretta thula Snowy Egret seen at many wetland sites Egretta caerulea Little Blue Heron 1 juvenile and 1 adult at Peró ponds Butorides striatus Striated Heron 1 immature at Regua ponds Bubulcus ibis Cattle Egret various sightings in SF de Paula - Cambará area, large colony at Regua ponds and more seen in fields nearby, various more sightings on the road in grassy areas Ardea alba Great Egret seen at many wetland sites Ardea cocoi Cocoi Heron 1 at Iguazú at Garganta del Diablo, several on Talha Mar at Lagoa and Dunes trail wetlands, 1 in Regua ponds Theristicus caudatus Buff-necked Ibis various groups seen and heard around SF de Paula, and at Tavares at twilight, 2 Together at SJ dos Pinhais Scytalopus site, multiple around SR de Minas Phimosus infuscatus Bare-faced Ibis group near Tainhas (between SF de Paula and Cambara), group at a pond S of Osório Plegadis chihi White-faced Ibis quite a few on road to Mostardas, at Talha Mar by lagoa and at Dunes trail wetlands Platalea ajaja Roseate Spoonbill several on Talha Mar at Lagoa, 2 together at Peró ponds Coragyps atratus Black Vulture many seen every day Cathartes aura Turkey Vulture quite commonly seen, though often not identified from following species Cathartes burrovianus Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture quite a few in the Cabo Frío to Regua area. Only identified by head color. Leptodon cayanensis Grey-headed Kite 1 at Angelim Circus buffoni Long-tailed Harrier several on Talha Mar around Lagoa and 1 at Dunes trail wetlands Geranospiza caerulescens Crane Hawk 1 at Pico Caledonia on road right, picked out by Igor Buteogallus meridionalis Savanna Hawk at least 6 separate on road to Mostardas, 1 on Talha Mar near Lagoa, 2 on Dunes trail, 1 between SR de Minas and Vargem Bonita, 1 on road to Regua green trail, several on road from Itatiaia to Perequê in grassy region Buteogallus urubitinga Great Black-Hawk 1 in flight a bit past Cambará do Sul, 2 in flight on Canastra road W Rupornis magnirostris Roadside Hawk quite commonly encountered Parabuteo leucorrhous White-rumped Hawk 1 seen in flight at Horto Florestal Buteo albicaudatus White-tailed Hawk several sightings in Canastra area, 1 on road from Cipó to Caetes area, and 2 in valley below Campos de Jordão Buteo brachyurus Short-tailed Hawk 1 in flight at base of Monte Crista trail Spizaetus tyrannus Black Hawk-Eagle 1 in flight on road from Itatiaia to Perequê, around where there starts to be more forest Athene cunicularia Burrowing Owl 2 at edge of Itapoá town, 1 on road to Vargem Bonita, 1 on road to Regua green trail Glaucidium brasilianum Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl several heard in Cipó village, 1 heard and 1 seen singing in broad daylight among Vale bungalows, at least 1 heard near Regua HQ Glaucidium minutissimum Least Pygmy-Owl 1 seen singing at Intervales on restaurant trail after Renato played its song for a while at a known site Megascops choliba Tropical Screech-Owl 1 heard at campground near São Roque, 1 heard on Canastra road W, 1 heard at Regua near HQ, and 1 heard at Intervales close to M. sanctaecatarinae 28 Megascops sanctaecatarinae Long-whiskered Screech-Owl heard once at Intervales, 5 km out of entrance, after Renato played its song at a know site Pulsatrix koeniswaldiana Tawny-browed Owl 1 heard at Augusto Ruschi upper road and 1 heard at Itatiaia at beginning of Maromba trail (from main road) Strix virgata Mottled Owl 1 heard at end of Folha Seca road Bubo virginianus Great Horned Owl 2 together heard singing at campground near São Roque Trogon rufus Black-throated Trogon 1 female seen at Augusto Ruschi and 1 female seen at Intervales. At least 1 heard at Intervales. Until Intervales I was not confident of being able to ID Trogon songs so many Trogons heard were unidentified. Trogon viridis White-tailed Trogon male at Itatiaia, pair seen at Angelim, 2 separate males and 1 female seen in Intervales, several heard in Intervales, and likely multiple heard before at other sites. Trogon surrucura Surucua Trogon regularly heard in forest and various seen Chloroceryle americana Green Kingfisher 1 female near Talha Mar by Lagoa and 1 female at Dunes trail wetlands Chloroceryle amazona Amazon Kingfisher 1 female at Talha Mar by Lagoa, 1 female at Dunes trail wetlands, 2 together at Regua ponds, pair on Carmo road, male at Pica-Pau campground, 2 together at Intervales pond Megaceryle torquata Ringed Kingfisher 1 male at Dunes trail wetlands Baryphthengus ruficapillus Rufous-capped Motmot 1 heard at Canastra low part, several heard at Regua, 1 h at Folha Seca, 1 seen at Intervales after Renato played song at a known site near beginning of Carmo road, 2 heard at beginning of Intervales Carmo road Nystalus chacuru White-eared Puffbird group heard and another group of at least 4 seen on Canastra hillside, and 2 together at beginning of Canastra road W Malacoptila striata Crescent-chested Puffbird 1 seen at Vale, 1 on Intervales Carmo road on both days Nonnula rubecula Rusty-breasted Nunlet 1 heard on Intervales Carmo road on both days Jacamaralcyon tridactyla Three-toed Jacamar 1 seen on Carmo road first stop and a few together heard nearby Galbula ruficauda Rufous-tailed Jacamar 1 female at Cipó park, 1 in Regua under roof of staff dining area, 1 female at Perequê Ramphastos dicolorus Red-breasted Toucan heard at many forest sites in Espírito Santo, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo states, with 1 seen at Augusto Ruschi, Itatiaia and road right from Horto Florestal, and quite a few in Intervales Ramphastos vitellinus Channel-billed Toucan several groups heard in Vale, quite a few groups heard in Regua including 2 seen in flight, some heard in Ubatuba Ramphastos toco Toco Toucan 1 seen at Iguazú falls entrance and more heard in area, quite often seen and heard in Canastra area at lower elevations, 1 in Cipó park Pteroglossus bailloni Saffron Toucanet at least 3 in Intervales at Ypê feeders Pteroglossus aracari Black-necked Araçari group at Vale among bungalows Pteroglossus castanotis Chestnut-eared Araçari 2 together on road from Puerto Iguazú to falls Selenidera maculirostris Spot-billed Toucanet 1 heard near beginning of access road to Iguazú falls, 1 h at Caetes, 1 h on Regua green trail, 1 male heard and then seen on Intervales Carmo road after Renato played song and 1 more male seen a bit further Picumnus cirratus White-barred Piculet 1 seen at Caetes, several at Regua, 1 on Carmo road, 1 at Itatiaia Picumnus temminckii Ochre-collared Piculet 1 at beginning of access road to Iguazú, several seen and many more heard in Intervales (where according to Renato is only Picumnus present) Melanerpes candidus White Woodpecker 2 together E of Santa Teresa and at least 1 at Regua Gallinago site, 1 seen and probably more heard on Carmo road second stop Melanerpes flavifrons Yellow-fronted Woodpecker several in Iguazú, Caetes, Intervales; likely heard at various other sites Veniliornis passerinus Little Woodpecker 1 female heard and seen at Canastra site B Veniliornis spilogaster White-spotted Woodpecker 1 near Camabará, 1 heard at top of Monte Crista, 1 seen and another heard on Intervales Carmo road Veniliornis mixtus Checkered Woodpecker 1 at Cipó a bit below upper part Veniliornis affinis Red-stained Woodpecker at Vale 2 separate and pair at nest with chicks Veniliornis maculifrons Yellow-eared Woodpecker 1 male at Caetes, 1 female at Augusto Ruschi Dryocopus lineatus Lineated Woodpecker 1 h at Augusto Ruschi, 1 heard and 1 seen at Caledonia road right spotted by Nicholas, about 3 heard including 1 seen after playing phone on Itatiaia Tres Picos trail, 1 h on Intervales Carmo road Celeus flavescens Blond-crested Woodpecker 1 at Mello Leitão and regularly encountered thence on Piculus flavigula Yellow-throated Woodpecker 1 heard in Perequê, 1 heard and seen at Angelim, 1 h on Intervales Carmo road Piculus aurulentus Yellow-browed Woodpecker 1 at Caetes, 2 separate seen and 1 more heard in Intervales 29 Colaptes melanochloros Green-barred Woodpecker 1 on Iguazú green trail, 1 at SF de Paula swamp, 1 on Intervales Carmo road Colaptes campestris Campo Flicker quite a few sightings in semi-open habitatis Campephilus robustus Robust Woodpecker 1 seen in flight on road inland from Itapema (near Itapoá), 1 female on driveway to Ypê, 1 very tame female at Horto Florestal, and double knocks heard several times in Intervales can only be this species Campephilus melanoleucos Crimson-crested Woodpecker noisy pair at Canastra site B Cariama cristata Red-legged Seriema several seen and heard in Canastra on road to lower part and road west, 1 seen on road S from Cipó, 3 tame ones togethes at Pico Caledonia, several heard from Carmo hill Herpetotheres cachinnans Laughing Falcon 1 seen on road from Cipó to Caetes area, on roadside cable Caracara plancus Southern Crested Caracara commonly encountered Milvago chimachima Yellow-headed Caracara quite regularly seen Milvago chimango Chimango Caracara common in Rio Grande Falco sparverius American Kestrel several on road from Sooretama to Buzios, maybe other sightings not written down Falco femoralis Aplomado Falcon 1 on Canastra road W at first fork Brotogeris tirica Plain Parakeet quite a few groups in Ubatuba and Intervales, mostly Idd by voice; probably heard before but was not confident of Iding by voice until Ubatuba Brotogeris versicolorus Canary-winged Parakeet 2 together in Cipó park, likely heard in Puerto Iguazú Triclaria malachitacea Blue-bellied Parrot 1 heard on Intervales Lageado trail, recognized by Renato; I might have noticed it (but not recognized it) on my own; I did immediately compare it to recordings on my phone and noted resemblance Pionus maximilani Scaly-headed Parrot groups heard and seen in flight in various places; again often unsure of ID of parrots heard Amazona amazonica Orange-winged Amazon several groups in Vale and 2 together at Praia do Peró Forpus xanthopterygius Blue-winged Parrotlet small group seen perched on road to Canastra low part, and afterwards various groups heard and sometimes glimpsed in flight, probably often overlooked Pyrrhura frontalis Maroon-bellied Parakeet common in Atlantic forest Eupsittula aurea Peach-fronted Parakeet quite common in Canastra and Cipó areas, and group at Vale bungalows Psittacara leucophthalma White-eyed Parakeet very large group in fields S of Sumidouro, and likely some heard on Carmo road Aratinga auricapillus Golden-capped Parakeet 1 on road to Canastra low part and group at Canastra B site Primolius maracana Blue-winged Macaw 2 together on Carmo road Melanopareia torquata Collared Crescentchest 1 heard on Canastra hillside, recognized a bit later listening to video Conopophaga melanops Black-cheeked Gnateater 1 female seen at Corcovado, 1 heard at Lageado trail recognized by Renato but I compared immediately with phone and saw that he was right Conopophaga lineata Rufous Gnateater 1 male seen at Canastra low part, 1 at Itatiaia, 2 heard at beginning of Intervales Carmo road. Likely both Conopophaga spp. were heard before Intervales but not recognized Terenura maculata Streak-capped Antwren common in forest at low to mid elevations, mostly heard but also quite a few seen Myrmotherula gularis Star-throated Antwren quite common at various low to mid elevation forest sites Myrmotherula luctuosa Silvery-flanked Antwren common at Vale and a few at Regua Myrmotherula unicolor Unicolored Antwren Heard at many forest sites in Espírito Santo, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo states, with 1 seen at Augusto Ruschi, Itatiaia and road right from Horto Florestal, and quite a few in Intervales Formicivora serrana Serra Antwren 1 heard singing and seen after playing phone at Carmo road second stop Formicivora littoralis Restinga Antwren 2 pairs seen at Praia do Peró after playing song of F. serrana. I think at least 1 may have already been vocalizing before using phone Formicivora acutirostris Marsh Antwren pair at site 16 km N of Garuva mentioned in J Minns's site notes, seen after playing song, entirely silent Formicivora paludicola São Paulo Antwren at site near Mogi das Cruzes mentioned by J Minns, 2 together coming very close and calling after playing song, and female seen very briefly Hypoedaleus guttatus Spot-backed Antshrike several heard at Volta Velha, 1 heard calling at Monte Crista, 1 heard at Corcovado, several heard at Intervales and 1 seen on Lageado trail Batara cinerea Giant Antshrike 1 heard at road right from Horto Florestal, several heard in Intervales, 1 female seen on restaurant trail after playing song and 1 male seen flying next to lake; possibly heard before without recognizing it Mackenziaena severa Tufted Antshrike at Intervales 1 male heard on restaurant trail (recognized by Renato although I first asked him what it was) and seen after playing song, and 1 heard singing on Carmo road on my own Mackenziaena leachii Large-tailed Antshrike 1 female seen and heard at Caledonia road right and then male seen after Igor played song, 1 tame male on ground by side of road at Agulhas Negras 30 Biatas nigropectus White-bearded Antshrike pair seen (and later one of them of another heard singing) at Carmo road, after Renato played song at a known site Thamnophilus ruficapillus Rufous-capped Antshrike 1 heard at Intervales wetland and 1 heard at Formicivora site near Mogi Thamnophilus palliatus Chestnut-backed Antshrike several seen and heard around Regua ponds and 2 heard on Carmo road second stop Thamnophilus caerulescens Variable Antshrike mostly heard and a few seen at various mostly mid to high elevation sites Thamnophilus ambiguus Sooretama Slaty Antshrike quite a few seen and heard at Vale and 2 heard singing including 1 male seen at Carmo road first stop Dysithamnus mentalis Plain Antvireo common in Atlantic forest except at high elevations Dysithamnus stictothorax Spot-breasted Antvireo common in forest at low to mid elevations from Espírito Santo to São Paulo states Dysithamnus xanthopterus Rufous-backed Antvireo 1 male seen singing at Agulhas Negras and several on road right from Horto Florestal Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus Rufous-winged Antwren commonly heard at Iguazú, Volta Velha, Vale, and Ubatuba, with 1 seen at Volta Velha and 1 at Vale Myrmeciza squamosa Squamate Antbird quite a few heard and several seen at Volta Velha, Monte Crista, Itatiaia (heard only and may be M. loricata), and Intervales Myrmeciza loricata White-bibbed Antbird 1 heard at Caetes and quite a few heard and 2 seen at Augusto Ruschi Pyriglena leucoptera White-shouldered Fire-eye commonly heard and quite often seen in forest sites Drymophila squamata Scaled Antbird 2 separate females seen at Volta Velha, 1 heard on Monte Crista, quite a few heard and several seen in Ubatuba Drymophila ochropyga Ochre-rumped Antbird quite a few heard and a few seen at Itatiaia and a few heard at Intervales Drymophila ferruginea Ferruginous Antbird 1 seen at Caetes, many heard and various seen at Itatiaia, quite a few heard and several seen at Intervales Drymophila rubricollis Bertoni's Antbird a few heard at Itatiaia and Intervales, probably some seen but none were vocalizing and had trouble visially distinguishing this species from above sp. Drymophila genei Rufous-tailed Antbird several seen and heard at Caledonia on road to peak Drymophila malura Dusky-tailed Antbird at least 1 heard and briefly seen at top of Monte Crista after playing phone and several heard in Intervales Grallaria varia Variegated Antpitta at Intervales 1 heard distantly on restaurant trail (pointed out by Renato), 1 heard near beginning of Carmo road after Renato played song, and heard again at latter site next day on my own Hylopezus nattereri Speckle-breasted Antpitta 1 heard at Agulhas Negras and at least 1 heard on road right from Horto Florestal Psilorhamphus guttatus Spotted Bamboowren 1 heard on Intervales Carmo road, recognized by Renato, and seen eventually; heard again at same spot on my own Merulaxis ater Slaty Bristlefront 1 heard at Itatiaia Tres Picos trail, at Intervales 1 heard and a pair heard and seen at site N after Renato played song, 1 heard and 1 heard calling and seen on Carmo road on my own Eleoscytalopus indigoticus White-breasted Tapaculo 1 heard and 1 seen at Volta Velha, at Intervales 1 h on restaurant trail, several h on Carmo road and 1 seen on my own Scytalopus speluncae Mouse-colored Tapaculo quite a few heard at Caledonia, several heard at Agulhas Negras and road right from Horto Florestal, 1 seen singing on Intervales Carmo road, provoked by Renato's recordings, and 1 heard on restaurant trail Scytalopus novacapitalis Brasília Tapaculo 1 heard at Canastra at source of São Francisco, seen after playing phone Formicarius colma Rufous-capped Antthrush 1 heard at Volta Velha and seen after playing song, 1 seen at Monte Crista and 1 heard next day, 1 heard at Perequê Chamaeza campanisona Short-tailed Antthrush 3 heard singing together at Monte Crista, 1 h at Augusto Ruschi, 2 separate h at Intervales Chamaeza ruficauda Rufous-tailed Antthrush several heard at Itatiaia and at least 1 heard on road right from Horto Florestal Chamaeza meruloides Cryptic Antthrush several heard at Caetes, at least 2 heard at Augusto Ruschi, decent amount heard at Itatiaia, several h at Intervales and 1 seen very briefly (identifiable to genus) after Renato played song Geositta cunicularia Common Miner 2 together near Talha Mar at beginning of dunes Sclerurus scansor Rufous-breasted Leaftosser several heard on Intervales Lageado trail, mostly pointed out by Renato, but I did manage to record some and recognize at least 1, and 1 seen after Renato played song Glyphorynchus spirurus Wedge-billed Woodcreeper 1 seen at Vale Dendrocincla turdina Plain-winged Woodcreeper 1 seen at Vale, 1 at Perequê, 1 at Angelim, several at Intervales 31 Sittasomus griseicapillus Olivaceous Woodcreeper common in Atlantic forest Dendrocolaptes platyrostris Planalto Woodcreeper 2 at Itatiaia, several at Intervales Xiphocolaptes albicollis White-throated Woodcreeper 1 h on Monte Crista, 1 seen on Caledonia road right, 1 h at Folha Seca and Angelim, 1 seen at Angelim and Horto Florestal, 2 separate heard at Intervales Xiphorhynchus fuscus Lesser Woodcreeper 1 on Monte Crista, at least 2 at Vale and at Itatiaia, 2 heard at Intervales. In Barigui and Volta Velha several seen may have been this species or Lepidocolaptes falcinellus Campylorhamphus falcularius Black-billed Scythebill 1 heard on Intervales Carmo road on my own and seen after playing song Lepidocolaptes squamatus Scaled Woodcreeper at least 2 separate at Caetes, 1 on Caledonia road right, 1 at Agulhas Negras, 1 at Ubatuba, 1 at road right from Horto Florestal Lepidocolaptes falcinellus Scalloped Woodcreeper 1 seen on Lageado trail, Idd by voice (picked out by guide), and then 2 together near pousada Idd by call on my own; likely many more seen but could not ID from X. fuscus (L. falcinellus does have some streaking on back ; until I saw the pair at Intervales I figured I was only seeing X. fuscus because I always saw some streaking) Lepidocolaptes angustirostris Narrow-billed Woodcreeper 1 seen on Carmo hill Xenops minutus Plain Xenops about 3 separate seen at Vale, 1 at Corcovado in Ubatuba Xenops rutilans Streaked Xenops 1 seen at Regua, several seen at Itatiaia, 1 seen at Intervales. Various Xenops in different places badly seen and not identified to species level. The 2 Xenops probably heard and not recognized in various places. Furnarius figulus Band-tailed Hornero 2 together at Regua Gallinago site Furnarius rufus Rufous Hornero quite common in open areas, though did not note any in E Minas Gerais or Espírito Santo Cinclodes pabsti Long-tailed Cinclodes several in SF de Paula - Cambará area Lochmias nematura Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper seen and heard at several forest sites at all elevations Phleocryptes melanops Wren-like Rushbird several near Talha Mar near Lagoa (similar habitat to next site) and several at Dunes trail wetlands Limnornis curvirostris Curve-billed Reedhauter several at Dunes trail wetlands Clibanornis dendrocolaptoides Canebrake Groundcreeper 2 heard at Barigui and seen after playing song on phone Clibanornis rectirostris Henna-capped Foliage-Gleaner pair in Cipó park in wet forest Automolus leucophthalmus White-eyed Foliage-Gleaner seen and heard at many forest sites at lower to mid-elevations Anabazenops fuscus White-collared Foliage-Gleaner seen and heard at many forest sites at lower to mid-elevations Anabacerthia amaurotis White-browed Foliage-Gleaner 1 seen on Carmo road spotted by Renato and another seen there on my own, also 2 separate very probably seen on upper part of Monte Crista Syndactyla rufosuperciliata Buff-browed Foliage-Gleaner seen at Barigui, Agulhas Negras, road right from Horto Florestal, and Intervales; likely h at more sites without my recognizing it Cichlocolaptes leucophrus Pale-browed Treehunter 2 together at Angelim, and at least 1 heard on Carmo road Heliobletus contaminatus Sharp-billed Treehunter 2 separate at Agulhas Negras, at Intervales 1 near pousada and 1 near beginning of Carmo road Philydor lichtensteini Ochre-breasted Foliage-Gleaner seen at many forest sites at lower to mid-elevations Philydor rufum Buff-fronted Foliage-Gleaner quite a few at Itatiaia and Intervales; at many places saw individuals of either this species of previous; likely heard but not recognized in many places Philydor atricapillus Black-capped Foliage-Gleaner seen and heard at many forest sites at lower to mid-elevations, usually with Habia rubica Leptasthenura setaria Araucaria Tit-Spinetail commonly heard and sometimes seen in Araucaria forest in Rio Grande and Curitiba area, several heard in Horto Florestal and road right, 1 heard in Intervales next to pousada Leptasthenura striolata Striolated Tit-Spinetail 2 together heard in scrub at edge of pine plantation about 20 km NE of SF de Paula, compared immediately with phone Phacellodomus erythrophthalmus Orange-eyed Thornbird several heard at a site lower down on Caledonia road, and 1 seen after Igor played song. Phacellodomus ferrugineigula Red-eyed Thornbird several heard in wetlands at Intervales entrance, provoked by Renato's recordings, and glimpsed a few times. Also some heard in Perequê and Angelim, not sure if this species or above. Phacellodomus rufifrons Rufous-fronted Thornbird 3 together at beginning of Canastra road W, at least 2 together in Cipó park, 3 together at Caetes, 1 h in wetlands N of Vitória Asthenes hudsoni Hudson's Canastero 1 seen on Talha Mar on coastal side of lagoa, flushed several times, entirely silent Asthenes moreirae Itatiaia Spinetail 1 seen at Agulhas Negras in shrubby area; did not go to end of road where likely would have encountered more Anumbius annumbi Firewood-gatherer several pairs at nests near Talha Mar near lagoa and nests seen at Dunes trail wetlands 32 Cranioleuca obsoleta Olive Spinetail 1 seen between SF de Paula and Cambará; perhaps more heard and not recognized in the area Cranioleuca pallida Pallid Spinetail quite a few heard and several seen at various mid to high-elevation sites in Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo states; perhaps already heard in Espírito Santo but did not yet know song Spartonoica maluroides Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail 2 and 2 on Talha Mar trail on coastal side of Lagoa Certhiaxis cinnamomeus Yellow-chinned Spinetail quite a few at Dunes trail wetlands, several in wetlands N of Vitória, quite a few in Regua ponds and Gubernetes site near Mogi Synallaxis cinerascens Gray-bellied Spinetail at Barigui park heard and 2 seen after playing phone, 1 heard at Scytalopis iraiensis site, 1 h at Horto Florestal, several heard in Intervales Synallaxis ruficapilla Rufous-capped Spinetail several at Barigui, 1 on Caledonia road right, common in Itatiaia and Intervales, probably overlooked until Itatiaia Synallaxis spixi Spix's Spinetail 1 on top of Monte Crista, at Canastra 2 at source of São Francisco river and 1 in low part, 1 h at Caetes and at Augusto Ruschi, 2 heard at Caledonia on road right, 2 h at Horto Florestal Synallaxis albescens Pale-breasted Spinetail 1 in Cipó park Synallaxis frontalis Sooty-fronted Spinetail 2 in Cipó park Neopelma aurifrons Wied's Tyrant-Manakin 1 heard and seen at Augusto Ruschi Neopelma chrysolophum Serra do Mar Tyrant-Manakin 1 heard at Caledonia road right after Igor played song at known site, 1 seen at Intervales at site N after Renato played song and another seen spontaneously spotted by Renato who recognized call Chiroxiphia galeata Helmeted Manakin at Canastra low part quite a few heard, several females presumably of this species seen and 1 male seen; 1 heard in Cipó park Chiroxiphia caudata Blue Manakin common in Atlantic forest Ilicura militaris Pin-tailed Manakin group of several males and females at Regua green trail Manacus manacus White-bearded Manakin several at Regua and 1 at Carmo hill, often following me around; found it difficult to ID lone females from those of following 2 species Dixiphia pipra White-crowned Manakin several females together at Vale Carpornis cucullata Hooded Berryeater several heard at Caetes and Intervales, totally unresponsive to Renato's songs, but 1 male seen spontaneously near pousada on my own Carpornis melanocephala Black-headed Berryeater 1 heard at Vale Pyroderus scutatus Red-ruffed Fruitcrow 1 seen at Canastra low part, 1 h at Intervales pointed out by Renato Lipaugus lanioides Cinnamon-vented Piha 1 heard at Caetes, several heard at Augusto Ruschi, several heard on Intervales Carmo road on both dates and 1 seen after Renato played device and 1 spotted by Renato seen spontaneously Lipaugus atrus Black-and-gold Cotinga quite a few heard at Caledonia and 1 male and 1 female seen, spotted by others, 1 heard at Agulhas Negras, 1 h on road right from Horto Florestal Lipaugus conditus Gray-winged Cotinga several heard at Caledonia Lipaugus vociferans Screaming Piha quite a few heard at Vale and 1 silent individual seen Procnias nudicollis Bare-throated Bellbird heard at many forest sites at low to mid elevations Oxyruncus cristatus Sharpbill several heard and 1 seen at Caetes and Augusto Ruschi, 1 h at Corcovado, several h at Intervales, likely more h that I forgot to write down Myiobius barbatus Whiskered Myiobius 1 at Volta Velha, 1 on Regua green trail, several at Ubatuba Myiobius atricaudus Black-tailed Myiobius 1 at Itatiaia Schiffornis virescens Greenish Schiffornis commonly heard at most forest sites and a few seen Schiffornis turdina Thrush-like Schiffornis at Vale quite a few heard and 1 seen spontaneously and 1 seen after playing phone Pachyramphus castaneus Chestnut-crowned Becard seen and heard in small numbers at quite a few forest sites Pachyramphus marginatus Black-capped Becard 1 h and 1 male seen at Vale, pair on Regua brown trail, 3 heard and 1 seen in Ubatuba Pachyramphus viridis Green-backed Becard 1 female on Regua brown trail Piprites chloris Wing-barred Piprites various heard at Intervales, first IDd by Renato who got me to see one, and then recognized on my own Piprites pileata Black-capped Piprites pair at Horto Florestal, calling, and singing a little after I played song Platyrinchus mystaceus White-throated Spadebill seen at many forest sites from ES to SP, though unfortunately did not start recognizing call until Intervales Platyrinchus leucoryphus Russet-winged Spadebill 1 seen at specific site on Lageado trail after Renato played device Tachuris rubrigastra Many-colored Rush-Tyrant several near Talha Mar near Lagoa in what I suppose are rushes, and several at Dunes trail wetlands 33 Corythopis delalandi Southern Antpipit at Regua several heard on green trail and 1 seen and heard there after playing phone, and 1 heard on brown trail; at least 2 heard on Carmo road Phylloscartes ventralis Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet encountered at most high (and some mid) elevation sites Phylloscartes sylviolus Bay-ringed Tyrannulet several heard on Intervales Carmo road (recognized by Renato) and 1 seen ok after Renato located it by voice Phylloscartes difficilis Serra do Mar Tyrannulet 1 at Monte Crista, quite a few on Caledonia road to peak and Agulhas Negras Phylloscartes oustaleti Oustalet's Tyrannulet 1 at Caetes and quite a few at Intervales, at first mostly recognized by voice by Renato, but also some found on my own Phylloscartes paulista São Paulo Tyrannulet several in Ubatuba and in Intervales Leptopogon amaurocephalus Sepia-capped Flycatcher encoutered at many forest sites Mionectes rufiventris Gray-hooded Flycatcher 3 heard singing on Regua green trail and 2 seen at Intervales Mionectes oleagineus Ochre-bellied Flycatcher 1 at Regua by ponds and 1 on Regua green trail Tolmomyias sulphurescens Yellow-olive Flatbill commonly seen and especially heard at most forest sites Tolmomyias poliocephalus Gray-crowned Flatbill 1 seen at Vale Tolmomyias flaviventris Ochre-lored Flatbill quite a few seen and heard at Vale Todirostrum poliocephalum Yellow-lored Tody-Flycatcher 1 at Carmo road first stop Todirostrum cinereum Common Tody-Flycatcher 1 at Canastra Scytalopus site and then on following day likely same one seen at stream before Scytalopus site Poecilotriccus plumbeiceps Ochre-faced Tody-Tyrant 1 at Caetes in scrub, several heard at Itatiaia, various heard and a few seen at Intervales Hemitriccus diops Drab-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant at least 1 at Caetes and quite a few at Itatiaia Hemitriccus obsoletus Brown-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant at Intervales 1 heard on Carmo road recognized by Renato, 1 seen at site N after Renato played device, 1 heard again on Carmo road at same spot on my own; also 1 likely seen on Itatiaia Tres Picos trail Ceratotriccus margaritaceiventer Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant 1 at Iguazú green trail, 1 seen and 1 heard in Cipó park Ceratotriccus orbitatus Eye-ringed Tody-Tyrant 1 at Volta Velha Ceratotriccus nidipendulus Hangnest Tody-Tyrant 2 together at Praia de Massabamba Myiornis auricularis Eared Pygmy-Tyrant encountered at many forest sites from Espírito Santo to São Paulo Hirundinea ferruginea Cliff Flycatcher 1 on road from Regua to Nova Friburgo, several at Itatiaia and 2 together at Intervales near restaurant Xanthomyias virescens Greenish Tyrannulet at least 1 at Agulhas Negras recognized by voice retrospectively in Intervales, and also several heard at Intervales, first pointed out by Renato, and finally 1 recognized on my own on Carmo road Tyranniscus burmeisteri Rough-legged Tyrannulet various heard and at least 2 seen at Intervales, call initially pointed out by Renato and then recognized on my own Camptostoma obsoletum Southern Beardless Tyrannulet heard at various sites and occasionally seen Myiopagis caniceps Gray Elaenia several at beginning of access road to Iguazú falls, group at base of Monte Crista trail, 2 together at Canastra low part, 1 h at Folha Seca, 1 seen at Angelim Elaenia cristata Plain-crested Elaenia 1 at Cipó a bit below upper part a few km along the dirt track to the left Elaenia obscura Highland Elaenia 1 in Canastra upper part by stream before Scytalopus site and 1 at Caledonia on road to peak Elaenia flavogaster Yellow-bellied Elaenia quite a few at Canastra and Cipó, 1 at Praia do Peró, quite a few at Regua Capsiempis flaveola Yellow Tyrannulet several together heard including 1 seen near beginning of Iguazú falls access road Phyllomyias fasciatus Planalto Tyrannulet 1 seen at Regua by ponds on 2 separate days, 1 at Angelim Phyllomyias griseocapilla Gray-capped Tyrannulet 1 seen at Caledonia road right, several at Agulhas Negras and road right from Horto Florestal, several h on Intervales Carmo road (mostly pointed out by Renato) and 1 seen there Polystictus superciliaris Gray-backed Tachuri several seen in Canastra upper part and at least 1 in Cipó upper part Culicivora caudacuta Sharp-tailed Tyrant at least 2 separate (only 1 seen properly) in Canastra upper part Serpophaga nigricans Sooty Tyrannulet several in Dunes trail wetlands Serpophaga subcristata White-crested Tyrannulet 2 past Cambará and 1 heard in the same region, 1 h at Agulhas Negras Attila rufus Gray-hooded Attila 1 at base of Monte Crista trail, several heard and pair seen on Regua green trail, 1 h Itatiaia and in Ubatuba, several heard in Intervales Ramphotrigon megacephalum Large-headed Flatbill several heard and 1 seen on both days (guided and alone) on Intervales Carmo road, likely heard before without being recognized Sirystes sibilator Eastern Sirystes at least 2 together seen and heard at Itatiaia, 1 heard and seen after playing phone at Corcovado, at Intervales 1 h on Lageado trail, several together h and including 1 seen on Carmo road on my own 34 Myiarchus tuberculifer Dusky-capped Flycatcher at Vale 1 seen near bungalows IDd by voice and several more heard in forest Myiarchus ferox Short-crested Flycatcher several in Canastra low part and Cipó park, 1 at Regua by ponds, IDd by voice. 1 of this or previous sp at Iguazú Myiarchus tyrannulus Brown-crested Flycatcher several in Canastra area at lower elevations, 1 in Cipó at mid-elevation on track left and several in park, IDd by voice Machetornis rixosa Cattle Tyrant several on Talha Mar near lagoa and on Dunes trail, at least 1 on road to Vargem Bonita, 1 on road from Santa Teresa to Linhares Pitangus sulphuratus Great Kiskadee common in most places Megarynchus pitangua Boat-billed Flycatcher 1 at Cipó park and quite common at lower elevations from ES to Ubatuba, distinguished from following sp by voice alone Conopias trivirgatus Three-striped Flycatcher group at Volta Velha Myiozetetes similis Social Flycatcher quite commonly encountered in MG, ES, RJ and SP Tyrannus melancholicus Tropical Kingbird common in more open habitats in lowlands of ES and RJ Myiophobus fasciatus Bran-colored Flycatcher 1 at Caetes in cultivated area Colonia colonus Long-tailed Tyrant 1 at Caetes, several in Itatiaia and Ubatuba, 1 at Intervales Carmo road Pyrocephalus rubinus Vermilion Flycatcher 1 male at Volta Velha in plantation Arundinicola leucocephala White-headed Marsh Tyrant 1 in wetlands N of Vitória, several at Regua ponds Fluvicola nengeta Masked Water Tyrant 1 at Canastra B site and 1 on road to low part, about 2 at Peró ponds, several at Regua ponds and in fields in the area, 2-3 at base of Carmo hill Gubernetes yetapa Streamer-tailed Tyrant pair at Regua Gallinago site and pair in a wetland near Mogi on the way to Stymphalornis wetland Muscipipra vetula Shear-tailed Gray Tyrant 4 together at Caledonia road right spotted by Nicholas, 1 at Agulhas Negras, 1 at Intervales next to sede de pesquisa Lathrotriccus euleri Euler's Flycatcher 1 at Augusto Ruschi, 1 on Regua green trail, several h and 1-2 seen at Itatiaia, 1 at Folha Seca Contopus cinereus Tropical Pewee 1 at Caetes, 1 heard at Itatiaia, 1 at Intervales Carmo road Lessonia rufa Austral Negrito 1 male in Dunes trail wetlands Hymenops perspicillatus Spectacled Tyrant rather common on Talha Mar around lagoa and at Dunes trail wetlands Knipolegus cyanirostris Blue-billed Black-Tyrant 1 female at Itatiaia, I think several males at Agulhas Negras but I think I confused them with following sp so not entirely sure Knipolegus lophotes Velvety Black-Tyrant 3 at top of Monte Crista, at least a pair at Agulhas Negras; certainly a lot of this sp or male of above at AN, and a few at road right from Horto Florestal Knipolegus nigerrimus Crested Black-Tyrant rather common in Canastra area, and at least 1 in Cipó high part Satrapa icterophrys Yellow-browed Tyrant 1 at Dunes trail wetland and 1 at Gubernetes site neat Mogi Xolmis velatus White-rumped Monjita common in Canastra area and 2 on road from Cipó to Caetes area Xolmis dominicanus Black-and-white Monjita 2 females about 15 km NE of SF de Paula and 1 male further along, 1 female at Dunes trail wetland Cyclarhis gujanensis Rufous-browed Peppershrike commonly heard and regularly seen at most sites Hylophilus poicilotis Rufous-crowned Greenlet commonly heard and regularly seen at most forest sites, but not Vale or Regua Hylophilus thoracicus Lemon-chested Greenlet 1 seen in Regua around ponds Vireo olivaceus Red-eyed Vireo quite a few heard and several seen at Vale and ( a bit less) at Regua, and 1 heard at Carmo road second stop Uroleuca caerulea Azure Jay 2 groups at Volta Velha Cyanocorax chrysops Plush-crested Jay small group at Canastra site B Tachycineta leucorrhoa White-rumped Swallow quite numerous at Talha Mar and Dunes trail, quite a few at beginning of Canastra road W, a few at various other sites Stelgidopteryx ruficollis Southern Rough-winged Swallow groups in various places in MG, ES, RJ and SP Progne chalybea Gray-breasted Martin several at Pica-Pau campground and about 2 very probable near Intervales wetland; probably various earlier sightings attributed to other species Atticora tibialis White-thighed Swallow 2 together at Angelim Pygochelidon cyanoleuca Blue-and-white Swallow commonly seen Alopochelidon fucata Tawny-headed Swallow a few together at Talha Mar beach and near lagoa and Dunes trail the next day, quite a few at Canastra high part Ramphocaenus melanurus Long-billed Gnatwren 2 together seen at Corcovado, at least 1 heard at Intervales Carmo road on both dates 35 Troglodytes aedon House Wren encountered in various places Cantorchilus longirostris Long-billed Wren several heard at Volta Velha in plantation, 1 heard and seen after playing phone at Perequê at a clearing Pheugopedius genibarbis Moustached Wren 2 heard including one seen after playing phone at Regua around ponds Turdus flavipes Yellow-legged Thrush encountered at various forest sites in ES, RJ and SP Turdus leucomelas Pale-breasted Thrush common in many forest sites, mostly at lower (to mid) altitudes, including riparian forest in cerrado Turdus rufiventris Rufous-bellied Thrush common in many forest sites, at all altitudes but especially higher up Turdus amaurochalinus Creamy-bellied Thrush quite a few in Cipó park, maybe some elsewhere overlooked Turdus albicollis White-necked Thrush common in many forest sites at low to mid altitudes Mimus saturninus Chalk-browed Mockingbird quite common in semi-open areas in MG, ES and RJ Anthus lutescens Yellowish Pipit several seen on Talha Mar around lagoa and 1 heard in wetlands N of Vitória Anthus correndera Correndera Pipit quite a few on Talha Mar near lagoa Anthus hellmayri Hellmayr's Pipit 1 seen singing on road right from Horto Florestal. A single Anthus seen at Canastra road W was most likely A. nattereri ; it had a streaked rich buff breast and I managed to record a single flight call unlike anything I could find on Xeno Canto. Euphonia violacea Violaceous Euphonia seen at various forest sites Euphonia chlorotica Purple-throated Euphonia pair at Regua near ponds Euphonia pectoralis Chestnut-bellied Euphonia seen at various forest sites and retrospectively after Renato pointed out call I think quite often heard Sporagra magellanica Hooded Siskin small groups in several places, often in semi-open areas Ammodramus humeralis Grasshopper Sparrow 1 seen and more heard about 15 km NE of SF de Paula, 1 seen on Talha Mar on coastal side of lagoa Arremon semitorquatus Half-collared Sparrow 1 seen at Caledonia lower road at known site after Igor played device and 1 seen the same way with Renato on Intervales restaurant trail Zonotrichia capensis Rufous-collared Sparrow often common at many sites, especially at higher altitudes Orthogonys chloricterus Olive-green Tanager group at Monte Crista, several at Itatiaia Ypê feeders, group seen on Intervales Carmo road on both days Habia rubica Red-crowned Ant-Tanager common at many low to mid elevation forest sites Rhodospina caerulescens Blue Finch at Cipó upper part 2 separate pairs (in first male was immature) Orchesticus abeillei Brown Tanager at least 2 small groups seen (but only 1 bird seen well) on Intervales Carmo road, first spotted by voice by Renato Pipraeidaea melanonota Fawn-breasted Tanager several at Iguazú, 1 at Itatiaia Stephanophorus diadematus Diademed Tanager generally common at higher elevation forest sites, also 2 on Dunes trail Cissopis leverianus Magpie Tanager 2 together at Iguazú, small group at Caetes, I think some at Itatiaia but did not write down, several small groups at Intervales Schistochlamys ruficapillus Cinnamon Tanager several at various spots on Canastra high part and 1 at site B, 2 together at Cipó high part, at least 1 on Caledonia road to peak Paroaria coronata Red-crested Cardinal quite a few on road to Mostardas Tangara mexicana Turquoise Tanager group at Vale Tangara cyanocephala Red-necked Tanager seen at many forest sites, mostly low to mid elevations Tangara cyanoventris Gilt-edged Tanager 2 groups at Caetes, 2 groups at Augusto Ruschi and 1 group at Mello Leitão Tangara desmarestii Brassy-breasted Tanager several groups at Caledonia and Agulhas Negras and 2 groups on Intervales Carmo road Tangara seledon Green-headed Tanager seen mostly in groups at many forest sites Tangara sayaca Sayaca Tanager mostly in groups at Volta Velha, Canastra low part, Cipó below upper part and park, Caetes, Regua, Caledonia Tangara cyanoptera Azure-shouldered Tanager 2 together at Caetes in cultivated area, 1 on lower Caledonia road, 2 separate at Intervales Tangara palmarum Palm Tanager 1 at Augusto Ruschi, quite a few at Mello Leitão mostly on banana feeders, several at Itatiaia Ypê feeders Tangara ornata Golden-chevroned Tanager group at Augusto Ruschi Tangara preciosa Chestnut-backed Tanager 1 male and possibly 1 female at Intervales near pousada Tangara peruviana Black-backed Tanager pair at Volta Velha Tangara cayana Burnished-buff Tanager several at Canastra, seen on upper part, flank, site B and low part, 1 at Cipó park and 1 a bit below upper part, 1 on lower Caledonia road, 1 at Itatiaia Ypê feeders Conirostrum speciosum Chestnut-vented Conebill 1 male at Vale, several at Regua and group at Carmo road second stop 36 "Sicalis" citrina Stripe-tailed Yellowfinch quite a few at Canastra high part and several on road W high part Sicalis flaveola Saffron Finch seen in various semi-open areas, mostly in groups Sicalis luteola Grassland Yellowfinch 3 and 2 on Talha Mar near lagoa Haplospiza unicolor Uniform Finch several separate at Itatiaia Chlorophanes spiza Green Honeycreeper several at Folha Seca feeders Hemithraupis flavicollis Yellow-backed Tanager various at Regua Hemithraupis ruficapilla Rufous-headed Tanager 1 male at Canastra low part, Itatiaia and Angelim each (saw some females but afraid of wrongly identifying H. guira) and several at Intervales Hemithraupis guira Guira Tanager at least a pair and single male on road from Puerto Iguazú to Iguazú falls Eucometis penicillata Gray-headed Tanager 2 together in Cipó park Volatinia jacarina Blue-black Grassquit 1 at Volta Velha in plantation, quite a few groups in Canastra area and Cipó park, group at Gubernetes site near Mogi Trichothraupis melanops Black-goggled Tanager common in Atlantic forest Trichothraupis cristata Flame-crested Tanager several at Augusto Ruschi, quite a few at Vale and Regua, 1 at Perequê, quite a few in Ubatuba Coryphosingus pileatus Gray Pileated Finch at least 1 at Canastra site B and 1 in lower part, 1 in Cipó park, 1 at Regua, 2 together on Carmo hill and Carmo road second stop each Coryphospingus cucullatus Red Pileated Finch at least 1 at Canastra low part Tachyphonus coronatus Ruby-crowned Tanager common at many forest sites Tachyphonus rufus White-lined Tanager 1 female at Canastra low part Ramphocelus bresilius Brasilian Tanager 3 together at Volta Velha, various at Regua around ponds, at least 1 on Intervales restaurant trail and 1 at wetland Dacnis nigripes Black-legged Dacnis 2 females together at Intervales Carmo road on my own, seen briefly in canopy Dacnis cayana Blue Dacnis encountered at many forest sites, often in smallish groups Saltatricula atricollis Black-throated Saltator quite a few at Canastra high part and site B, and quite a few at Cipó at various sites Saltator similis Green-winged Saltator quite a few at Canastra low part, at least 1 in Cipó park, 1 at Regua, 1 h in Nova Friburgo, several at Itatiaia, Agulhas Negras and Intervales Saltator fuliginosus Black-throated Grosbeak 1 heard at Itatiaia identified retrospectively by video after Renato showed song, various heard at Intervales at first recognized by Renato but then also on my own and 2 together singing seen spontaneously Saltator maxillosus Thick-billed Saltator a few at Caledonia road to peak, at least 2 together on road right from Horto Florestal and 1 at Horto Florestal Embernagra platensis Great Pampa Finch quite a few in grassland in SF de Paula - Cambará area, 1 on road right from Horto Florestal Emberizoides ypiranganus Lesser Grassfinch 1 at SF de Paula wetland, 2 together at SJ dos Pinhais Scytalopus site Emberizoides herbicola Wedge-tailed Grassfinch 3 separate at Canastra high part, 1 at Gubernetes site near Mogi Donacospiza albifrons Long-tailed Reedfinch 2 and 2 on road right from Horto Florestal "Poospiza" thoracica Bay-chested Warbling-Finch 3 together at top of Monte Crista, group on Caledonia road to peak, common at Agulhas Negras, several on road right from Horto Florestal Microspingus lateralis Buff-throated Warbling-Finch common at Agulhas Negras and road right from Horto Florestal Microspingus cabanisi Gray-throated Warbling-Finch 1 and small group near Cambará, 2 together on top of Monte Crista Coereba flaveola Bananaquit a few encountered at many forest sites Sporophila angolensis Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch pair at Gubernetes site near Mogi Sporophila leucoptera White-bellied Seedeater 1 male in Cipó park, pair at Gubernetes site near Mogi Sporophila plumbea Plumbeous Seedeater at Canastra 1 male by stream before Scytalopus site, 2 separate presumed females at site B, 2 males on road W upper part Sporophila frontalis Buffy-fronted Seedeater several rather large groups at Itatiaia in bamboo mostly Sporophila caerulescens Double-collared Seedeater 1 male at Canastra low part, 1 male at Cipó park with several females of presumably this species, several males with more females of presumably this species at Caetes, in Ubatuba at least 1 male at Angelim and Pica Pau each Sporophila nigricollis Yellow-bellied Seedeater 1 male with some Sporophila females at Canastra low part and pair at Cipó Sporophila ardesiaca Dubois's Seedeater 1 male at Caetes in cultivated area and possibly 1 in Canastra low part; this is likely a subspecies of above species Sturnella superciliaris White-browed Blackbird 2 separate males on road to Mostardas 37 Psarocolius decumanus Crested Oropendola 1 next to campground near São Roque, 3 at Canastra site B, 1 at Carmo road second stop Cacicus chryopterus Golden-winged Cacique various seen in SF de Paula area, Itatiaia, Agulhas Negras, Ubatuba, Horto Florestal, and Intervales Cacicus haemorrhous Red-rumped Cacique encountered at many forest sites Icterus jamacaii Campo Troupial 1 at Vale among bungalows Icterus pyrrhopterus Variable Oriole several at Iguazú Molothrus rufoaxillaris Screaming Cowbird group near Cambará, 2 together before Canastra site B, 1 at Gubernetes site near Mogi Molothrus bonariensis Shiny Cowbird large group near Cambará, large groups on road to Mostardas, 3 together at Regua Amblyramphus holosericeus Scarlet-headed Blackbird 3 together at Dunes trail wetland Gnorimopsar chopi Chopi Blackbird group near Cambará, group at Curitiba airport and group at Vale near bungalows Agelaioides badius Baywing at least 1 on road to Mostardas Agelasticus thilius Yellow-winged Blackbird several groups on Talha Mar on coastal side of lagoa Chrysomus ruficapillus Chestnut-capped Blackbird common at Talha Mar near lagoa and at Dunes trail wetland, group before Canastra site B Xanthopsar flavus Saffron-cowled Blackbird 2 males and 1 female together about 15 km NE of SF de Paula Pseudoleistes virescens Brown-and-yellow Marshbird groups on Talha Mar on coastwards side of lagoa (and 1 group near beach) and at Dunes trail wetland Pseudoleistes guirahuro Yellow-rumped Marshbird several groups in SF de Paula - Cambará area, group at Cipó upper part Geothlypis velata Southern Yellowthroat 1 male on Iguazú green trail, 1 female at Dunes trail wetland, 1 in Intervales wetland, several at Formicivora site near Mogi Setophaga pitiayumi Tropical Parula various in Iguazú and SF de Paula - Cambará area, 1 at Barigui, 2 at Vale, and multiple in Ubatuba and Intervales; likely more sightings that I forgot to note or aural encounters that were not recognized Myiothlypis flaveola Flavescent Warbler 1 heard in Canastra low part and 1 seen in Cipó park Myiothlypis leucoblephara White-rimmed Warbler common at higher altitude forest sites Myiothlypis rivularis Riverbank Warbler quite common at Volta Velha and Monte Crista lower part, a few at Angelim and Intervales Basileuterus culicivorus Golden-crowned Warbler common in most forest sites, though not Vale or Regua (N lowlands); subspecies (ex-species) hypoleucus common in gallery forest at lower elevation in Canastra area and in Cipó park Pipile jacutinga Black-fronted Piping-Guan, Intervales 38