luxury travel - IncomeActivator.com

AUGUST 2013
Grand
luxury travel
DESIGN GUIDE TO LONDON
Where to Find Cool Stuff
MAGICAL MOSCOW
Discovering Luxury à la russe
SIX TO SEE
Cities That Sparkle
AUTUMN IS NAPA TIME
A Fall Fling in Northern California
+
8 GREAT ESCAPADES
TO INSPIRE YOUR TASTE FOR TRAVEL
& WHAT I LOVE ABOUT SYDNEY
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6
Features
6 Design Guide to London
From the shops of Kensington High Street to Spitalfields in the East End and beyond,
London offers the design-savvy visitor plenty to meet the eye. By Rachel Ogden
10 Weekend at the Cape
A short drive from Cape Town, a centuries-old manor house turned hotel offers
delectable food and indulgent accommodations. By Andrew Fletcher Cole
16 Six to See
16 12
From sunny Spain to the Danish capital, Hungary, Slovenia and the Adriatic coast,
here are destinations you’ll want to see now. By John Fitzgerald
20 Autumn in Napa
Home to world famous wineries, stunning inns and sophisticated restaurants, northern
California’s wine country is just the ticket for a fall fling. By John Newton
AUGUST2013
grand r contents
25 The Magic of Moscow
25
With its iconic Red Square and dazzling domed churches, Russia’s capital and Europe’s largest city
has transformed itself into a luxury destination that is brash and beguiling. By Jan Coomans
Departments
12 Escapades
30
See Rome with Mr & Mrs Smith; dogsled in Arctic Lapland; explore magnificent Melanesia; kick
back at Hong Kong’s The Upper House hotel. GRAND says: Do it. By John Fitzgerald
22 Geared Up
22
Louis Vuitton’s patent-leather jewel case for packing your bijoux de plage while the handsome
Hermès carryall is built to last; a colourful sari scarf looks good on anything; Hammacher Schlemmer’s
Talking Translator makes sure you won’t be tongued-tied in foreign parts. By Gabrielle Johnson
28 What I Love About...
Q & A with Australian portrait artist, Ben Quilty. By John Fitzgerald
30 Lasting Impressions
Angel of the North, a giant sculpture set on land adjacent to the A1 motorway near Newcastle, England is a
symbol of a proud region and one of the UK’s most compelling sights. Photo and words by John Fitzgerald
EDITOR
John Fitzgerald
ART DIRECTOR
Stephen Underwood
CONTRIBUTORS
Susan Bridges, Jan Cooman,
Gabrielle Johnson, Jasmin Kabiling,
John Newton , Rachel Ogden
CEO
J. Scott Robinson
PUBLISHER
Irene Patterson
COMPASS MEDIA GROUP
4391 Harvester Rd., 5A
Burlington, Ontario L7L 4X1
1.905.634.1010
www.compassmediagroup.ca
SALES DIRECTOR
Kate Plowman
EASTERN SALES MANAGER
Mark Drouin
GRAND is a division of
COMPASS MEDIA GROUP
Printed on recycled material.
On the Cover
The Annual Design
Festival launches at the
venerable V & A, on
London’s Cromwell Road.
©Victoria and Albert
Museum, London
3
grand r editor’s note
he fall season is a great time to travel,
whether it’s to Europe or elsewhere, including northern
California, where Napa offers one of the most memorable
new Arbat to the leafy Patriarch Ponds district, ideal for
strolling, Moscow entices with its moody grandeur.
Meanwhile, for those who love to see good design
when they travel, our London destination story tells you
what you want to know. Whether it’s visiting the Design
Museum, checking out the fantastic glass gallery at the
Victoria & Albert Museum or scoping out Clerkenwell
and Spitalfields Traders Market in search of special finds,
London design writer Rachel Ogden tells all.
In the feature entitled “Six to See,” we feature a cool
half-dozen destinations in Europe we think you’ll want to
discover now. Experience Montenegro at Aman Resorts’
Stefan Sveti resort on the Adriatic coast or lose yourself
amid the splendours of Ljubljana, the charming
vacations. In this issue, writer John Newton gets the
lay of the land, from the Robert Mondavi winery and
world-famous inns such as Auberge du Soleil and
Meritage Resort & Spa to Thomas Keller’s bistro-style
Bouchon, among other distinctive dining venues.
Elsewhere in the issue, with the Russian Federation
under the Olympics spotlight in 2014, we asked writer/
photographer Jan Coomans to introduce Moscow, a city
he’s called home for 15 years. From Red Square and the
capital of Slovenia that, despite its modest size, has a big
city sophistication. For travelers, San Sebastian, a city
famous for its restaurants, cooking schools and annual San
Sebastian International Film Festival, provides a window
into the rich strains of Basque culture. Adjacent to France
and part of Spain, its unique flavor is truly captivating.
On our Escapades pages, read about Adventure Canada’s
upcoming journey offering to Melanesia and an exhibition
of Russian avant-garde painters in Florence. Finally,
T
“If Not now…
award-winning Australian portrait painter Ben Quilty
reveals what he loves about hometown Sydney.
The Layar logo you see on some pages in the magazine
will help you get the most out of each issue. This userfriendly technology allows us to embed videos, photo
galleries and interactive buttons onto the pages that you
can access just by downloading the app for iPhone, iPad
and android devices.
As always, we love hearing from you. Please send
your comments to [email protected].
John Fitzgerald
We invite you to take these steps to enhance and
activate your reading experience:
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grand r destinations
6
www.shopgreenwich.co.uk
By Rachel Ogden
©Luke Hayes
its 3,000 exhibits invokes a strange, satisfying sensation,
and you will marvel at how much thought has gone into
each one. Perhaps it’s that age creeps up on all of us, or
perhaps it’s that design moves so quickly, but you will
unquestionably recognize more than you think at first.
There’s the pink iMac – just like the one I worked on only
a decade ago – closely followed by an electronic toy I had
as a child and the forerunner of my current Dyson Ball
vacuum cleaner.
The theme of this year’s London Design Festival –
“Design is Everywhere” – focusses on everyday,
unappreciated objects together with icons of art and design.
This annual celebration of form, function and culture
whirls into life from September 14 to 22 at the Victoria
(Opposite page from top) Images 1, 4, 5, 10, 11 street views from
Clerkenwell Design Week 2012, 2 Fermoie showroom at Brompton
Road, 3 Greenwich Market, 6 Spitalfields Market Goat Sculpture by
KennyHunter, 7 Mimicry Chairs by Nendo at the V&A, 8 The Bench
Years, commissioned by Established & Sons at the V&A, 9 Prism by
Keiichi Matsuda with veuve Clicquot at the V&A, 12 Walk the light by
Philips and Cinimod at the V&A
©London Design Festival 2013, 14 – 22 September
You could come to London to see Big Ben, explore
Regent’s Park or visit Buckingham Palace, but if you want
your holiday photographs to be a little more distinctive,
you need to immerse yourself in some of the best design
the capital has to offer – and just buy postcards of the other
stuff. Heralded by The London Design Festival as “design
capital of the world,” the heart of the U.K. offers a world of
aesthetic appeal.
“People are attracted to London from all over the
world, adding a multicultural influence that is unrivalled in
Europe,” says Max Fraser, Deputy Director of the London
Design Festival. “Furthermore, our design education system
is strong, our museums and cultural sector are buoyant
and the design market is mature. All of these ingredients
give London a dynamism that I am proud to be a part of.”
Begin by visiting the Design Museum: wandering past
and Albert Museum or V&A (Cromwell Rd.), itself a high
church of design with its glass gallery, among many other
permanent spaces.
Events are held all over the city, including the Endless
Stair – inspired by M. C. Escher’s Relativity lithograph. It’s
a series of 20 interlocking staircases that can be climbed
for stunning panoramic views of the city at St Paul’s
Cathedral (EC4M 8AD). Only, you’ll have to be in the
queue behind me.
The other significant celebration of design in the
capital is Clerkenwell Design Week, which takes place
every year in June and includes talks, projects and
exhibitions by local showrooms. This year’s festival was a
veritable riot of retro influences, focussing on the 1970s
reborn with softer lines, sleek finishes and knocked-back
colour – the appeal being objects at once familiar and new.
Regardless of whether you miss this annual
acknowledgement of the aesthetic, Clerkenwell is a great
area to visit for ornamental inspiration at any time of the
year. Named after the clerks who once performed medieval
mystery plays throughout the Middle Ages, over the last
two decades it has become the home of more than 60
design showrooms, including Vitra (30 Clerkenwell Rd.,
EC1M 5PG), Poltrona Frau (150 St. John St., EC1V 4UD),
Flos and Moroso (7–15 Rosebery Ave., EC1 4SP) and as
well as over 200 architectural practices – more per square
kilometer than anywhere else.
You may have heard of the East End of London for
The Endless Stair (above) pictured in front of St. Paul’s Cathedral is one
of the installations shown at the London Design Festival in September.
The exterior of London’s Design Museum (below left); visitors browse
among the racks of clothing at the Spitalfields Traders Market.
its old reputation as a gritty underworld, but now it’s a
retail hotspot. London’s oldest market, Spitalfields Traders
Market (E1 6AA), is nestled under a glass canopy and
houses independent shops and stalls offering everything
from one-off interiors to almost every form of art
imaginable. It’s easy to spend hours browsing, and there are
some great bargains to be had. I rarely come away without
finding something new to take home, whether it’s an antique
typewriter or a desk-sized, handcrafted iron sculpture.
The surrounding area, Shoreditch (a triangle bounded
by Old Street, Great Eastern Street and Shoreditch High
Street), is a blend of affluence and a metropolitan edge.
In between quirky finds at Brick Lane Market at the Old
7
(Images clockwise from top left) interior of the Design Centre at
Chelsea Harbour, The Conran Store Fulham Road, Mimicry Chairs
by Nendo at the V&A, suite at the Metropolitan Hotel
IF YOU GO
Truman Brewery (E1 6QL), you’ll find stores such as gift
shop Caravan (5 Ravenscroft St., E2 7SH), patchwork
furniture makers Squint (178 Shoreditch High St., E1 6HU)
and Fornasetti aficionados Milk (118-1/2 Shoreditch High
St., E1 6JN).
At the glossy, high-design end of the spectrum sits the
Design Centre at Chelsea Harbour (SW10 0XE). More than
99 showrooms inhabit this large, white, sleek building,
ranging from the modern Chaplins, Ann Sacks and
Evitavonni to the more traditional Watts of Westminster,
SA Baxter and Vaughan, with 500 designer brands
available across fabrics, wall coverings, furniture, lighting,
accessories, tiles and carpets. There’s also a Royal Institute
of British Architects (RIBA) bookshop that I couldn’t help
but spend a small fortune in.
While the Design Centre feels a long way out of central
London, it’s actually only a few minutes from the King’s
Road, a seemingly infinite parade of shops wending
8
its way to Sloane Square. These include the recently
refurbished Heal’s store (234 King’s Rd., SW3 5UA),
Habitat (208 King’s Rd., SW3 5XP) including its
Platform Gallery, which will host an exhibition of African
design, Graphic Africa, as part of LDF, the Designer’s
Guild flagship store (267–277 Kings Rd., SW3
5EN) and a host of small boutiques. Sir Terence
Conran fans should take a detour to the parallel
Fulham Road for the flagship store of the
chain he founded after Habitat, The Conran
Shop (81 Fulham Rd., SW3 6RD).
Without being aware of it much of the time,
Londoners are spoiled
by a melting-pot attitude
to
culture.
Whether
your tastes are Scandi
minimalism, mid-century
modern, Bauhaus, sleek
Italian imports or solid,
homegrown British concepts,
good design, much like
travel, aims to inspire and
move you, to make you
look at things from a new
perspective. It’s a journey all
on its own.
HOTELS: Rough Luxe is an imaginative oasis in a shabby
section of London. This intimate establishment, a house
really, combines old and new. It’s a chic stop for the
adventurous. Birkenhead St. WC1H 8BA. Tel. 44-207837-5338; [email protected];roughluxe.co.uk.
Sure-footed and serene, the sleek, award-winning
Metropolitan is a member of COMO Hotels. With a
treasured location on Old Park Lane, the 144 rooms and
suites boast lots of natural light. Old Park Lane W1K 1LB;
44-207-447-1000; [email protected];
comohotels.com/metropolitanlondon.
RESTAURANTS: Zuma: In Knightbsbridge and fashionable
as all get out, the restaurant serves enticing organic modern
Japanese cuisine. 5 Raphael St. SW7; 44-207-584-1010.
SHOP: Harvey Nichols: Always in style for everything.
109-125 Knightsbridge; 44-207-235-5000; Mon-Sat.10-8.
Sun.11:30-6; harveynichols.com.
TO SEE: eBulli: Ferran Adria and The Art of Food. Until
Sept.29 at Somerset House, this major retrospective
shines the light on a global icon in the world of gastronomy.
Embankment Galleries West, South Wing, Strand WC2R
1LA; daily; 44-207-845-4600; somersethouse.org.uk.
Listen closely
and you’ll hear
your wake-up call.
Hear that? It’s the sound
of an island welcoming you
with open arms. It’s birdsong,
mingled with laughter. You hear
it because your hotel room has
no fourth wall—it’s an always-open
picture window. In here, you’re
pampered and celebrated by an
island that heard your requests and
is intent on answering all of them.
Hear how Saint Lucia lifts your senses.
Call 800-869-0377 or visit stlucianow.ca
grand r destinations
Savouring a weekend at the Cape
Amidst the wineries a short drive from Cape Town, a centuries-old manor
house turned hotel offers delectable food and indulgent accommodations.
By Andrew Fletcher Cole
10
The asphalt gave way to dirt beneath our tires. We
were nearly there. Some weekend “wintering” in the South
African countryside had arrived, and the weather was
cooperating magnificently. Through the sunroof above
our heads, brushstroke clouds floated in front of an azure
canvas. Vineyards and old orange orchards blurred beside
the car as we rounded another corner on a twisty route deep
into the valley.
Our destination was Grand Dédale, a charming
Cape Dutch manor tucked away between the Groenberg
Mountain and Bain’s Kloof Pass near the town of Wellington,
about 45 minutes from Cape Town. An elegant hideaway
just a short drive from a multitude of wineries, as well as a
few artisanal distillers, the manor offers luxury, comfort and
exceptional service.
Angelo Casu, an Italian-South African and veteran of
the Cape hotel scene, with previous positions at the worldfamous Mount Nelson and Winchester Mansions hotels in
Cape Town, greeted us on the step of the manor. He and his
wife Tina, a German-South African, have been managing
the property on behalf of its English owners for more than
five years, wearing a number of hats, from general manager
to waiter to doorman.
The 300-year-old manor house includes six comfortable
rooms, and for those needing absolute privacy and more
space, the property also features the romantic Old Wine
House, a standalone thatched cottage dating from 1707. Our
room, named after its view of the Limietberg Mountains,
was a cosy loft, tastefully decorated and offering all the
amenities one would expect from a five-star hotel. Accessed
via a tight spiral staircase, it was one of three thatch-covered
rooms sharing a charming sitting area, complemented by a
fully stocked bar.
Dinner – served by Brighton, a charming Malawian
gentleman – was preceded by canapés and a glass of Pierre
Jordan Cuvée Brut. Featuring a very local menu, our meal
was replete with wines from the property (Grand Dédale
is located on the award-winning Doolhof Wine Estate)
and cheeses from the Wellington valley. In keeping with
the season, dinner consisted of a rich tiger prawn, mussel
and squid risotto, followed by an eland fillet sourced from
the Bontebok Ridge Reserve nearby, with potato fondant,
delectable green beans and butternut purée, topped with jus.
Ending the meal were some extraordinary handcrafted
drinks from Jorgensen’s distillery in town, including the
Naked Limoncello, an almost creamy concentration of
organic lemons, and Savingnac brandy, a rival to the best
cognacs in the world, with distinct notes of marmalade,
The landscape around Grand Dédale is a complement to the excellent food, wine and service.
cinnamon, raisins and coffee wafting from its caramelcoloured depths. Full and content, we were assured of a
heavenly night’s sleep under the intoxicating, earthy scent
of thatch.
The evening’s heavy downpour brought to life the rich
greens, reds and greys of the mountainous landscape. Our
exploration of some of the 380 hectares of vineyard, forest
and fynbos that surround the property began at the stone
labyrinth – the emblem of the hotel and the wine estate
– which is laid out in a similar manner to the one in the
cathedral at Chartres. (Grand Dédale is French for “Great
Labyrinth,” and Doolhof, Afrikaans for labyrinth, was
the name given to the area by the early settlers due to the
many hills and vales, which allow only one way in and out.)
Walking through the maze was a welcome meditation, a
chance to lose track of direction, time and the outside world
with every turn.
Beginning a hike under a cool canopy, we travelled
along the Kromme River, eventually ascending to a rugby
pitch with perhaps the most gorgeous backdrop in the
world. Further up the mountain slopes were hardy vines,
twisted around trellises suspended over a floral carpet of
yellow and white. The air was sweet and fresh, carrying a
delightful perfume from the indigenous flora, overlaid
with the subtle hint of roses. (A nearby valley rose farm,
Langkloof, cultivates more than 14,000 plants.)
After reaching the highest vineyard on the property
and feeling invigorated thereby, we returned home to
freshen up for a rare visit to the Bosman Family Vineyards, a
farm not normally open to public tastings. Beyond growing
grapes, this picturesque estate is home to one of the largest
rootstock nurseries in the Southern Hemisphere, one of 30
such operations in Wellington.
The Bosmans stopped making wine in 1956, but in
2004, they resumed production of what are considered
some of South Africa’s best vintages. On our personal tour
with the gracious and knowledgeable Tina, we were lucky
enough to witness a carefully managed bottling process, all
done by hand (like everything on the farm), and we were
invited to taste Bosman’s eclectic range of wines.
Some standout whites included the tongue-smackingly
crisp Méthode Cap Classique (100 percent Chenin Blanc)
and a surprisingly charming “blanc de noir” style wine.
Apparently, this wine, a Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Meunier
blend, was supposed to be a bubbly, but finished as a still wine
due to its high alcohol content. The solitary rosé boasts an
unprecedented 33 different grape varieties. It is an ideal picnic
wine, bursting with strawberries and sweet melon.
After the tasting, we returned to the elegance and
comfort of Grand Dédale for a sumptuous high tea. Sitting in
the afternoon sun on the veranda, we drank Earl Grey from a
sterling silver teapot and enjoyed scones and clotted cream, as
well as a few tasty quiches.
Following a peaceful evening, another fine meal and
some pleasant banter around the fire, it came time to leave.
Relaxed, well fed and with a case of wine in the trunk, we
bade farewell to one of the most welcoming – and underappreciated – valleys in the Western Cape’s wine region.
For information, log on to granddedale.com
11
Escapades
See Rome with Mr & Mrs Smith; dogsled in Arctic Lapland; explore magnificent Melanesia;
kick back at Hong Kong’s the Upper House hotel. By John Fitzgerald
Making for Melanesia: In October 2013, the travel company Adventure
Canada is offering a thrilling 14-day adventure in Melanesia that includes Papua
New Guinea, the Solomon Islands and New Caledonia. The itinerary should be of
special interest to bird watchers, those who enjoy diving, or simply exploring and
soaking up the culture and wildlife. The trip, features passage aboard the Spirit of
Enderby with a variety of cabins. The tour begins in the port town of Madang in
Papua New Guinea, and, in the days ahead, includes stops on Manus and Mussa
islands, New Ireland, New Britain as well as the New Georgina Islands and the
Solomons. Anyone with even a cursory knowledge of the history of Pacific theatre
of operations in the Second World War will know how fierce was the fight as
American troops struggled to dislodge the entrenched Japanese invaders. The
sublime beauty of the place is everywhere apparent.
Melanesia Discoverer—Adventure Canada Oct.11-24, 2013.
Adventure Canada itineraries include many great Canadian trips, from a
tundra buggy adventure in Churchill, Man. that gets up close with polar bears
to a Newfoundland Circumnavigation offered in 2014. For more information
on these trips and prices, log on to the company’s web site at:
adventurecanada.com or call (800)363-7566.
Lapping it up: British-based bespoke outfitter Ollysuzi Expeditions boasts
more than 22 years experience putting together various adventures in remote
parts of Africa and the Arctic. The company operates in six of the seven Arctic
countries. You can choose from Arctic Alaska to the snowy forest of the Sami
reindeer herders in northern Norway and Finland. Try a family dogsled
expedition in Arctic Lapland while spending the nights in elegant rustic log
camps and traditional Sami tipis and Lappish reindeer herder camps. Each
expedition features a chef who prepares organic local meals with good quality
wine so it’s not as if you’re stuck in the bush without sustenance. How many
times have you said to yourself that you wanted a unique experience in a
vacation? Here’s your chance. Mush. Mush.
For more information, log on to: ollysuzieexpeditions.com, e-mail: olly@
ollysizieexpeditions.com or call 011-44-07796-156087. Costs of course
vary depending upon which expedition you choose. Consider the time of
year as well.
12
Russian Flavour: The Russians were all over Europe this summer from Baden-Baden to Barcelona.
A body could hardly keep up with all the shopping and dining as well as the Slavic exclamations of “Da”
and “Nyet!” So it’s no surprise that artful Florence has opened its arms as well. Take yourself to the Palazzo
Strozzi where works by Wassily Kandinsky, Leon Bakst, Kazimir Malevich and others are on display as part
of an exhibition entitled ѮF3VTTJBO"WBOUHBSEF4JCFSJBBOEUIF&BTU. Organized by the Palazzo Strozzi
Foundation, the exhibition testifies to the role that radical Russian artists after the October Revolution of
1917 played in the development of Russian Modern art and the intense relationship with the geography of
their country. That was especially true of Russia’s East and Far East, in which the artists found sources of
inspiration such as Siberian shaman rituals, Neolithic figures and Japanese engravings. The exhibition also
features works by Nikolai Kalmakov and Sergei Konenkov, shown for the first time in the West.
The Russian Avant-garde, Siberia and the East will be on display from
Sept. 27-Jan.19 at the Palazzo Strozzi. P.zz Strozzi, Florence; 39 055 246 9600;
[email protected]; Palazzostrozzi.org. An example of domestic
Renaissance architecture, albeit for the wealthy, the palazzo was begun in
1489 for the Strozzi family.
Aiming High: The Upper House, an extremely smart Hong Kong hotel housed
on the upper 10 floors of a 49-story Pacific Place skyscraper has been described by
is architect Andre Fu as “a poetic, upward journey into peace.” True dat. We know
you like Hong Kong’s exhilarating noise and bustle but there is a limit, especially if
you’re a frequent visitor. Retreat to The Upper House’s secret garden and stretch out
on its perfectly manicured lawn—and this is saying something for a city as dense
and congested as Hong Kong. The small hotel is filled with pieces from some of
Asia’s finest artists and the Sky Lounge with its central fireplace and soft tones, has
memorable views of The Peak and the historic Wanchai district. The studios, suites
and penthouses are cleverly designed to reflect Fu’s aesthetic of elegant restraint.
This is an excellent choice if you crave serenity and indulgence.
The Upper House is located at Pacific Place, 88, The Queensway, Hong Kong.
Tel. reservations: 011-852-3968-1111 or e-mail [email protected].
Log on to: theupperhouse.com.
Day of the Dead: If you happen to be in Mexico in the autumn, don’t pass up a chance to experience the country’s
most important festival, namely the so-called Day of the Dead or Dia de Muertos that is observed Nov. 1st to 2nd.
A joyful occasion despite the sombre backstory, it coincides with All Saints and All Souls Day in the Christian calendar.
The festival, which has different activities that vary by region and even community, sees the living visiting the graves of
relatives and friends during the one time of the year when their souls are said to be present. The living bring with them
or prepare on site favourite dishes enjoyed by their departed relatives or friends, from fresh and roasted corn to tortillas,
chicken and other foods. Graves are spectacularly decorated with candles, a profusion of flowers, and elaborate smallscale altars. The Day of the Dead has its origins in the indigenous peoples of Mexico and other parts of Latin America.
The website of the Mexican Tourist Board in Canada has information
about the Day of the Dead observances across the country.
Log on to: visitmexico.com.
13
grand r escapades
Amazing Italy: London-based bespoke travel outfit Mr & Mrs Smith that has hundreds of quirky,
idiosyncratic and quite marvelous hotels in its collection now offers a selection of swell itineraries. Of
course, everyone loves a bit of the dolce vita and what could be better way to enjoy it than with a three-stop,
seven night tour that takes in Rome, Florence and Puglia. In Rome, stay three nights at the luxury Palazzo
Manfredi. Get chauffeured around the city in a vintage Fiat 500 and take in some of the city’s intriguing
restaurants. Hip JK Place is where you hang your hat in Florence, and you can take a chef led class in
traditional Pugliese cooking while you spend two nights at the hotel/spa Masseria Torre Maizza in Puglia.
For more information, log on to: mrandmrssmith.com or call (800) 464-2040.
International flights are not included in the price of the package.
Anchors Away: Look to the Caribbean as you enjoy one of the SeaDream yachts.
Now booking for the late 2014 and early 2015 voyages, SeaDream I and SeaDream II
will sail to the Grenadines, French West Indies and the British Virgin Islands. The BVI
is known for Horseshoe Reef, the Caribbean’s largest coral reef and it will be included
in one of SeaDream’s itineraries. The cruise company’s 56-stateroom yachts, with a
95-person crew are some of the most luxurious afloat.
To learn more about SeaDream, its yachts, itineraries in the Caribbean and
elsewhere and pricing, call (800) 707-4911 or log on to: seadream.com.
Paradise Found: You can’t help thinking that a little bit of stardust has attached itself to you. That’s when you pop your
head up from the cool depths of the infinity pool at the Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay and gaze out over the exquisite
Aegean Sea. This is Turkey, specifically the port city of Bodrum on the southwestern coast where the Crusaders built
Bodrum Castle in the 15th century that’s still standing, as well as Greek ruins. The Barbaros Bay’s long private beach
affords the opportunity for sand-kicking strolls should you tire of enjoying the floor to ceiling windows, balcony or terrace
in your prettily designed guestroom, of which there are 149 and 24 suites. Take to the sea in a sailboat or catamaran, learn
to windsurf and dive, or sit back and enjoy it all. About the only thing you have to do is apply the sunscreen. There’s a
5500 square meter spa too, a first rate one featuring holistic, tailor-made treatments and of course, the ritual Turkish bath.
The Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay is located on a private beach in Bodrum,
Turkey. To book, visit: kempinski.com or call 90 252 311 0303
(011 to dial outside Canada). Condé Nast Johansens has named it the most
excellent destination hotel in Europe and the Mediterranean in 2013. Rates
for a double room in September/October/November average 320 euros a day,
including breakfast and VAT. Bodrum airport is a 50 minutes flight from Istanbul.
14
6
If the travel bug points you to Europe this
fall, explore these GRAND destinations that
have a wealth of culture, cuisine, and
opportunities to meet some amazing people.
Of course, you can do Amsterdam, the Cotswolds
maybe, and perhaps the Amalfi Coast. They’re all great
destinations. But if you plan a trip to Europe, why not spread
your wings? The classics are still ripe for exploring but there
are a neat handful of locales on the continent that are drawing
discerning travelers in 2013. Picture yourself strolling
along the promenade in front of the grand Hotel Londres y
Inglaterra in San Sebastian in Spain’s Basque autonomous
region. Or giving yourself up to the mitteleuropa feel of
Ljubljana, the bijou, compact capital of Slovenia. Portugal
is hot too, especially Porto with its distinctive wine and
romantic cruises on the Douro River. If you’ve always pictured
your personal Europe as pints in Manchester, a kiss amidst
the throngs on the Piazza San Marco in Venice or having the
leaves in the Luxembourg Gardens feel joyously familiar on
a Paris autumn afternoon, know this. Enchantment abounds
elsewhere too. The following list contains GRAND’s picks of
places you’ll want to discover or discover again.
to see
hotel complex that features a stately villa with eight grand
suites (part of 50 guestrooms in the various cottages and
other buildings) is its own miniature island. It’s connected
to the mainland and about six kilometers from the pretty
resort town of Budva. There, you’ll find a plethora of narrow
SVETI STEFAN, MONTENEGRO
It’s not new new, having been a swanky playground for
the swells during the Marshall Tito years when Montenegro
was part of Yugoslavia. From the 1960s to 1980s, they all
came or many of them, including Sophia Loren and her
husband, the director Carlo Ponti, Liz Taylor, Princess
Margaret and Orson Welles. Even chess champion Bobby
Fischer. With its beautiful sandy beaches, a lush pink no
less, Aman Resorts’ Sveti Stefan (Saint Stephen) resort on
the Montenegro coast is a lovely place to escape still. The
16
An aerial view of the red-roofed Sveti Stefan.
Breathtaking views from the Queen’s Chair restaurant.
streets, churches and various saintly reminders as well as
cafes and restaurants.
To learn more about the Sveti Stefan resort, log on
to: amanresorts.com. For Montenegro in general, see
visit-montenegro.com.
See the royal guards with their ambitious bearskin hats
and colourful toy soldier uniforms. Thanks to King Christian
IV, a disastrous warrior and keen builder who died in 1648,
the capital has a generous amount of stately piles such as the
Renaissance Rosenborg Castle wherein lie the Danish crown
jewels. The gems must be worn only inside the country.
Never, abroad for fear of possible misfortune befalling them.
Log on to: visitcopenhagen.com for a complete list of
tourism sites, hotels and restaurants.
San Sebastian’s Three Michelin Stars
Restaurante Berasategi.
de San Telmo houses an
exemplary collection of works
tracing 100 years of Basque
art. Elsewhere, the luxurious
Hotel Maria Cristina on the
Paseo Republica Argentina is
more than a century old with
a sumptuous Belle Epoque
interior. It’s attracted Brad
Pitt, Woody Allen, Elizabeth
Taylor and others over the
years who’ve come to take
part in or just take in the San
Sebastian International Film
Festival that started in 1953
and takes place in September.
Much more tourism information on San Sebastian can
be found at: spain.info.
The beautiful promenade overlooking La Cocha Bay in San
Sebastian welcomes strollers at all hours.
Reflected in the glass front, 19th century Hay House
seems to tower over a brooding café patron.
COPENHAGEN
By far the most engaging of the northern European
capitals, and home to Mads Mikkelsen, star of The Hunt and
television’s Hannibal, Copenhagen has come a long way.
Remember when it was known for well, The Little Mermaid,
open-face sandwiches and beer. Noma, (noma.dk) has been
named the world’s best resturant since 2010. Beside
the brightly painted vintage buildings facing the port,
Copenhagen is home to the Tycho Brache Planetarium
with a projector that shows 4,000 stars. The city’s
Black Diamond Library has a serene beauty and the Daniel
Liebskind-designed Danish
Jewish Museum is housed
inside the Danish Royal
Library’s old Galley house.
Cobblestone streets are
crowded with bicycles.
Gaze at the symmetry of
the four identical mansions
in Amalienborg Palace
Square, winter home of the
Danish royals.
Copenhagen’s colourful
18
waterfront is a top attraction.
SAN SEBASTIAN
A food town par excellence, the Spanish city is noted
for its cooking schools and high caliber restaurants
celebrating Basque cuisine. You’ll love the pintxos, Basque
equivalent of tapas in its many flavourful manifestations
such as cod tempura and wild rice risotto. There’s also San
Sebastian’s proximity to La Rioja region wineries and its
immensely talented chefs that include Martín Berasategui,
who, with six, has more Michelin stars than anyone in
Spain. In fact, three of the seven three-star restaurants
in the country are in San
Sebastian. On the ocean
side promenade, the whole
town gets out at sunset to
enjoy the view of La Concha
Bay that in the right light
can be breathtakingly
beautiful. Stroll in the
gardens of Miramar Palace,
the College of Music and a
former summer residence
for the Spanish royal family.
San Sebastian’s El Museo
PORTO
Home of port wine and one of the oldest cities in
Europe, dating to Roman times, Porto has been gifted with
many treasures, among them the Crystal Palace with its
gracious gardens set above the Douro River upon which
you can enjoy a lovely boat ride. The place is one of Porto’s
signature attractions. There’s the 13th century Church of
The Episcopal Palace dominates Porto from its hilltop location.
It’s part of the historical centre of the city.
San Francisco with an exquisite collection of gilded wood
decorations and the City Museum housed in the one time
Palace of the Carranacas and containing paintings and
ceramics. Porto has a grand iron bridge, the Dom Luis that
was built before the Eiffel Tower. For colour and spectacle,
head to the port area known as Cais da Ribeira, a World
Heritage Site that has a warren of alleyways and medieval
streets. For photo and video options, you have the spectacle
of traditional Portuguese boats floating on the river. If
you can fight your way through the tourists, there’s plenty
to see from one of the tables at the many cafes and bars,
including the houses across the river where they make
port wine. We love the Mercado do Bolhao, the two-storey
covered market where every foodstuff imaginable seems
The Hungarian Parliament building on the Pest side of
Budapest is reflected in the waters of the Danube.
forget to lose yourself for an hour of so in the splashily
refurbished Café New York or other cafes. Enjoy coffee,
hot chocolate or a brandy known as Palinka. Let yourself
be tempted the wondrous Hungarian desserts such as
cream puffs or super rich Esterhazy torte. Budapest’s
Palace of the Arts is an outstanding complex housing the
National Concert Hall where there is always something
of it still. A replica of the Fountain of Three Carniolan
Rivers, designed by a Venetian sculptor, stands in front of
the baroque Town Hall. The old City Centre is dominated
by the hilltop medieval castle, which now mainly houses
the Festival Ljubljana offices. The yearly celebration of
music and dance is held each June. A big contribution to
the look of today’s city can be attributed to Jose Plecnik,
Slovenian architect and Ljubljana native who died in the 1950s.
He left a formidable body of work including the opera
house, the Triple Bridge, the university library, summer
theatre and the lively Central Market. That’s a good stop
for tasting Slovenian food such as Carniola sausage, Karst
prosciutto and locally made schnapps. Rent a bike in Tivoli
Park set among rolling hills and situated very close to the
centre of the city. It was laid out in the early 1800s and is
truly one of the handsomest green spaces in Europe.
For more information about Ljubljana, log on to:
slovenia.com. The city hosts thousands of events every
year, many of them cultural.
A tramcar travels through the centre of Porto.
to be for sale and the lusty lungs of the fishwives get plenty
of practice hawking the latest catch. That running around
should put you in the mood for relaxation and a beverage.
There are cafes to die for in Porto, especially the famous
Café Majestic with its dazzling mirrors and cherubs and
decidedly Old World air.
For more information on Porto, go to: visitportugal.com.
BUDAPEST
Built on the banks of the Danube River with Buda
on the right bank surrounded by seven hills, Budapest
was one of the dual capitals under the Austro-Hungarian
monarchy in the 19th century, along with Vienna. There
are glorious physical reminders of its grand past, especially
in the so-called Castle District. Elsewhere in the city, you
are reminded of the stamp of Hungarian Art Nouveau on
its buildings, inside and out. The movement flourished
here from 1890-1912 and you can spot the Art Nouveau
buildings by the elaborate stained glass windows and
intricate mosaics. Doors bear representations of peacocks,
squirrels, women and flowers. Budapest is famous for its
thermal baths and spas, so don’t miss the opportunity
to experience one or the other or both. Nor, as in Porto,
A striking painting in a guestroom
at the trendy Bohem Art Hotel.
splendid be it classical music or jazz, theatre and dance.
For hanging your hat, the handsomely imposing Danubias
Hotel Gellert shares its location with the famous Gellert
thermal spa. Another good option is the whimsically hip
Bohem Art Hotel Budapest on Molnar u. A different artist
decorates each of the guestrooms.
For more information on Budapest, log on to:
gotohungary.com.
The Narcissus Fountain in central
Ljubljana dates from the 1700s.
LJUBLJANA
The tiny Central European country of Slovenia borders
Austria, Croatia, Hungary and Italy. With its symbol, a
dragon, Slovenia’s capital has less than 300,000 inhabitants
and is a splendid city for walkers. The exuberant baroque
style of architecture flourished in Slovenia, especially in
Ljubljana in the 17th and 18th centuries when it was part
of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and there’s much to see
Vintage buildings with
café umbrellas at street level
overlook the Ljubljana River.
21
grand r destinations
AUTUMN IN NAPA
BY JOHN NEWTON
Veeder Summit Vineyard, the Hess Collection
From Mendoza, the so-called Napa of Argentina, to
British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, dubbed the Napa of
Canada, California’s most famous wine region has many
would be rivals. It’s perhaps not surprising that Napa has
become shorthand for any region of the world that offers a
certain wine-themed take on dolce far niente. It’s here that
the California good life finds its truest expression: leading
chefs serve organic fare paired with local wines at both
Michelin-starred restaurants and insiders’ secret spots;
spas offer treatments that use herbs and flowers straight
from the garden; and you can stock up on artisanal soaps,
candles and jams to recreate California living at home.
For the first time visitor, however, Napa’s abundance of
choices may feel overwhelming. Follow our guide and
you’ll get the lay of the land and be prepared to then
explore and find your own discoveries.
Guests enjoy a toast at Meadowood
GEOGRAPHY
Just a half-hour drive north from San Francisco, Napa
can be easily combined with a visit to the city by the sea. The
main artery of the valley is Highway 29, along which you
can find Napa to the south, then Yountville, Rutherford,
St. Helena, and Calistoga at the northern end. Just a few
kilometers east, the Silverado Trail is a scenic alternative to
29, lined with wineries.
art collection, with works by Robert Motherwell, Anselm
Kiefer and others (4411 Redwood Rd.; 707-255-1144;
hesscollection.com; tours and tasting from $10 to $75). The
official Napa Valley tourism office has a comprehensive
listing of wineries at legendarynapavalley.com or drop in
at their Napa Valley Welcome Center at 600 Main Street
in Napa to get tips from one of their knowledgeable
volunteers (707-251-5895).
DRINK
EAT
There are literally hundreds of wineries offering tours
and tastings that range from free up to around $30, though
you can spend more for private tours or special food-andwine pairings (and note that not all wineries are open to the
public, so check their website first). Start with one of the
historic wineries, like Robert Mondavi, which produced
its first wines in 1966 and offers exclusive cellar tastings,
grape-to-table tours, and twilight tours (Highway 29,
Oakville; 888-766-6328; robertmondavi.com; tours and
tastings $20 to $55). A stop at a smaller boutique winery,
like Ancien, will give you a different, more intimate
perspective with the chance to talk to the winemaker Ken
Bernards over glasses of their pinot noir and pinot gris
(Combsville AVA; 707-927-6594; ancienwines.com; visits
by appointment only). The main claim to fame of the Hess
Collection (in addition to its wines) is its contemporary
With a population of under 3,000 and six
Michelin stars, Yountville boasts that it has the highest
concentration of Michelin stars in the world. Most of
those stars were earned by Thomas Keller, with three at
The French Laundry and another at Bouchon. If you are
going to splurge on a meal at The French Laundry, you’ll
need to make reservations for two in advance and save
up $270 each for the prix fixe menu. (6640 Washington
St., Yountville; 707-944-2380; frenchlaundry.com). The
bistro-style Bouchon is more affordable (6534 Washington
St., Yountville; 707-944-8037; bouchonbistro.com;
entrees, $18 to $42) while the casual, family-style
Ad Hoc, famous for its fried chicken, just reopened
this spring after renovations (6467 Washington St.,
Yountville; 707-944-2487, adhocrestaurant.com; $48 for
four-course prix fixe menu).
Though he may not be as well known outside Napa,
Richard Reddington has found a following (and earned
a Michelin star of his own) at Redd, where he prepares
local ingredients in Japanese and Italian dishes (6480
Washington St., Yountville; 707-944-2222; reddnapavalley.
com; entrees, $27 to $31). His newest venture, Redd Wood,
is more casual with pizzas from a wood-burning oven
and homemade pastas (6755 Washington St., Yountville;
707-299-5030; redd-wood.com; pastas, $14 to $16; pizzas,
$10 to $16; entrees, $24 to $27).
Gott’s Roadside (with locations in St. Helena and
Napa, as well as at the Ferry Building in San Francisco)
is the place to head for thick milkshakes, burgers and
specials you won’t find at your typical diner with, for
example, Thai twists to American classics (644 First St.,
Napa; 707-224-6900; gotts.com; burgers, $7 to $15). Next
(180 Rutherford Hill Road, Rutherford; 707-963-1211;
aubergesoleil.com; doubles from $1,500). Napa’s newest
addition is the Meritage Resort & Spa, at the southern
end of the Napa valley and near the town of Napa,
which opened this spring. The large rooms at the Italian
inspired resort overlook rows of vines (875 Bordeaux Way;
707-251-1900; doubles from $269).
In Calistoga, the four-bedroom Chateau de Vie is one
of the more appealing bed-and-breakfast options (3250
Highway 128, Calistoga; 877-558-2513; cdvnapavalley.
com; doubles from $225). While in the town of Napa itself,
1801 First is in a converted Queen Anne mansion and
serves up generous breakfasts each morning (1801 First St.,
Napa; 707-224-3739; 1801first.com; doubles from $295).
door to the Napa Gott’s, the Oxbow Public Market is
home to an outpost of Hog Island Oysters and gourmet
and kitchen shops (644 First St., Napa; 707-226-6529;
oxbowpublicmarket.com). Finally, in a location overlooking
the Napa River, “Iron Chef ” Masaharu Morimoto marries
Japanese and Western cuisines at his restaurant Morimoto
(610 Main St., Napa; 707-252-1600; morimotonapa.com;
entrees, $29 to $45).
While food and wine may first come to mind when
thinking of Napa, a trip there need not be all about caloriepacked indulgence. In 2011, Clif Wines opened Velo Vino
in St. Helena —they’ll set you up with some wheels through
the Calistoga Bike Shop and provide maps of routes taking
in highlights of the valley (709 Main St., St. Helena;
707-968-0625; bike rentals from $35 per day). The Land
Trust of Napa County makes some areas that are protected
by the trust accessible to it members. For a $40 membership
($30 for seniors and students), you can join a group hike
on the trust’s land or request access to explore on your own
(707-252-3270; napalandtrust.org).
SLEEP
The Napa Valley has options from five-star resorts
to humble B&Bs, though do keep in mind that on busy
weekends, hotels often sell out.
Meadowood, outside St. Helena, is located on 250
wooded acres, and has its own three-star Michelin restaurant,
The Restaurant at Meadowood, which reopened this spring
following an extensive renovation. You can work off the
calories by hiking the trails throughout the grounds or with
a round of croquet on the resort’s lawn (900 Meadowood
Lane, St. Helena; 800-458-8080; meadowood.com; doubles
from $475). Auberge du Soleil is the Valley’s most high-end
option: all 50 rooms have private terraces and fireplaces
An aerial view of Meadowwood
grand r destinations
First year barrels at Robert Mondavi winery
A view of Auberge du Soleil at dusk
STRETCH
The bathhouse at Spa Solage
SOAK
Even before Napa was known as a wine destination,
its spas (especially around Calistoga) were the area’s big
draw. Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Springs Resort was the first,
established in 1952 and offering mud baths for $3.50.
Today a soak in the volcanic mud, followed by a wrap
and massage is $179. (1507 Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga;
707-942-4102; drwilkinson.com). The Spa Solage is a
newer, sleeker option with a Solage Sampler that includes
a mudbath, body scrub and massage for $275 on weekdays,
$295 on weekends (755 Silverado Trail, Calistoga;
707-226-0825). The Spa Villagio in Yountville has 16
treatment rooms and five spa suites complete with outdoor
fireplaces (6481 Washington St., Yountville; 707-944-8877;
50-minute massages, $145).
"MMQSJDFTTIPXOJO64EPMMBST
The terrace at Auberge du Soleil
grand r geared up
1 J.Crew Alden
Travel Shoe Care Kit
Nothing lets down a dapper ensemble faster than scuffed-up shoes,
and travel is no excuse to take a vacation from sartorial standards.
Pack this portable kit from New England’s legendary Alden Shoe
Company. With a horsehair brush, chamois buffing cloth and two
jars of paste wax fitted snugly inside a buttery tan leather case,
you’ll be prepared for any footwear fiasco.
($152, jcrew.com)
3 Uncommon Goods Sari Scarf
Between unpredictable airplane temperatures and
overzealously air-conditioned restaurants, it’s always
smart to stick a lightweight scarf in your purse when
travelling. This colourful silk number is made from
upcycled vintage Indian saris and is meant to stay
crinkled, so there’s no need to waste precious holiday
minutes ironing in your hotel room.
($48, uncommongoods.com)
9
TRAVEL
FINDS TO
SNAP UP
THIS FALL
2 Armand Diradourian Cashmere
Travel Pillow and Eye Mask
Forget those hideous blow-up pillows you see for sale at all the
airport shops. Besides lacking any aesthetic appeal whatsoever,
they never seem to get the job done, anyway. Invest in an ultraluxe pillow and eye mask set by New York–based cashmere
company Armand Diradourian, which uses traditional weaving
and knitting techniques to create gorgeous (and functional)
travel goods, all made by hand in Nepal.
($190, mrporter.com)
by Gabrielle Johnson
4Liquid Image Explorer Series
Underwater Digital Camera Mask
22
Who knew that photography could be completely
hands free? Simply strap on this swim mask and
get ready to capture striking underwater scenes
– to an impressive depth of five meters – with
its built-in, 5-megapixel digital camera. It comes
with 16 MB of memory, plus the option to add up
to 2 GB more thanks to a memory card slot, so
you can spend every waking moment of your trip
snapping away under the sea.
($197, clickshop.com)
6 Louis Vuitton Monogram Vernis Jewel Case
Whether you’re carting around priceless family heirlooms or the latest
“I’m sorry” bauble from a wayward spouse, your precious gems deserve to
travel in style. Louis Vuitton’s glossy, patent-leather case comes complete
with five separate inside pockets, a ring organizer and a protective pillow
to meet all your jewellery-storing needs. If only everything in life were
this well thought out. ($1,080, louisvuitton.com)
5
HyperJuice Plug
External Battery Pack
7 Hermès
You’re surgically attached to your iPhone/
iPad/insert-i-product-here at home, and no
one expects you to do without on the road.
But when you’re nowhere near a charging
device, the batteries on these life-changing
gadgets have a funny way of conking out
before you can say “Apple store.” The solution
is a high-capacity external battery pack that
can charge two USB gadgets at the same time
— even Androids, tablets and smartphones
without “i” names.
($159.95, hypermac.org)
Calèche-Express Travel Bag
Made from durable, water-resistant
H Tech toile fabric and the supplest
Barenia calfskin leather – known to acquire
a beautiful patina as it ages – this roomy
unisex carryall, with outside pockets and
a removable strap, is built to stand the test
of time. Consider it your most faithful travel
companion and get your money’s worth out of
this stunning investment piece.
($7,300, hermes.com)
8 Hammacher Schlemmer
30 Language Talking Translator
How do you say “I’m on a no-carb diet” in
French? Disregarding the fact that these
words should never, ever be spoken in the
land of baguettes and brioche, this handy
portable translator will craft the perfect
phrase to help you shun all those delicious
calories. From Chinese to Norwegian to
Turkish, you’ll be virtually fluent in 24
European languages and three Asian
languages, Arabic, Hindi and English.
That’s a lot of places to avoid bread.
($249.95, hammacher.com)
9 Valextra Textured Leather
Passport Holder and Card Holders
Pack a touch of practical luxury in your carry-on with this brightly hued
passport cover and card holder set from Valextra, Italian makers of some of
the world’s most discreetly sybaritic leather
goods. They’re sold separately, but
you’ll want to scoop up all three
to appreciate the textured leather
– in bold shades of red, violet and
orange – whenever
you peek into your bag.
(from $240,
net-a-porter.com)
g
h
f
i
h
y
l e
r
s
With skin-care products from Bulgari, Kiehl’s and others,
airlines up the ante with their first-and
business-class amenity bags.
If you pay or have someone pay for you
to sit in business or first class when
flying, especially on long-haul trips,
chances are you’ve been handed a
fat little amenity bag just after they’ve
been around with the bubbly. Airlines go
to a lot of trouble to get their amenity
bags just so. In first class, Emirates
Airlines,
TURKISH AIRLINES: Created by FORMIA, (formia.com) the
airline’s unisex amenity bag for business-class passengers doubles
as an iPad case and is filled with Crabtree & Evelyn products.
Turkish Airlines also won kudos for innovation for its shoulder bag
for women on special hajj flights, the hajj being the pilgrimage to
Mecca that a devout Muslim is expected to do at least once in his
or her lifetime. Included is a prayer mat and prayer counter.
for
example,
features
an
amenity bag for women designed by
the luxury brand Bulgari, including its
Bulgari Eau Parfumée The Rouge, while
Australian carrier Qantas Airways’ bag
ETIHAD AIRWAYS: The airline scored in the first-class male
category with a cufflink-inspired box sporting a jewel-toned
lining. Designed by Harley Smith, Etihad’s amenity bag contains
a nifty selection of La Prairie skin-care products and is a definite
keeper, even if you’re as used to flying first class as others are to
visiting Tim Hortons.
is designed by Jack Spade. Each year,
the U.K. travel website travelplus.co.uk
organizes TravelPlus Airline Amenity
Bag Awards to salute the best of the
bunch. The 2012 awards were staged
last April at the Radisson Blu Hotel in
Hamburg, Germany, with categories
such as Business Class Female, First
Class Male and others. Simon Ward,
founder of TravelPlus Media, noted
that the amenity bag is one of the only
SINGAPORE AIRLINES: It’s a given that one of the world’s
best airlines wouldn’t be letting its side down when it comes
to creature comforts. Best Unisex Bags went to Singapore at
the TravelPlus Airline Amenity Bag Awards. Floss, socks and
eyeshades are all available if you ask for them, so there’s room in
the kit for hand salve and other skin-care loot from Kiehl’s.
24
things a passenger can legally take off
the plane and use afterward, so it can
be especially memorable. Here’s a look
at some of the winners:
VIRGIN AUSTRALIA: Virgin’s sleek amenity bag in charcoal
grey is designed by Dutch-born Hans Hulsbosch and offers
products by the Australian skin-care brand Grown, as well as a
pen and tissues. (Back when he started his design company in
the 1980s, one of Hulsbosch’s first gigs was refitting the firstclass cabin of a Qantas Airways plane for Pope John Paul II’s
visit to Australia, replacing seats with a single throne).
THE MAGIC OF
grand r destinations
MOSCOW
WITH ITS ICONIC RED SQUARE AND DAZZLING DOMED CHURCHES,
RUSSIA’S CAPITAL AND EUROPE’S LARGEST CITY HAS TRANSFORMED ITSELF
INTO A LUXURY DESTINATION THAT IS BRASH AND BEGUILING.
Ornately-fashioned columns and golden
domes project the Kremlin’s beauty.
BY JAN COOMANS
Photo courtesy TSUM
26
department store, which faces Red Square and runs almost
its entire length,. Built in the late 1800s, it houses more than
200 luxury boutiques within a magnificent interior. There is
something rather intriguing about raging capitalism barely
a stone’s throw away from the mausoleum where Lenin rests.
TSUM is a good bet too. Housed in a building on Petrovka
Street that opened in 1908, TSUM, with a Veuve Clicquot
champagne bar, a cigar room and collections by the likes of
Roland Mouret, Dennis Basso, Mathias Lauridsen and other
luxury brands, is chic personified.
If you want to see the work of Russian designers, check
out the lovely boutique owned and run by Alena Ahmadulina
which is at the same time a café called “Cup & Cake”. It’s
located in Nikolskaya Street, close to GUM. Meanwhile, one
of the most popular Russian designers, Alexander Terekhov,
has his own boutique on the ground floor of the Moskva
Trade Center near the Red Square.
The square is, of course, Moscow’s most famous spot. It’s
an example of how knowledge of the past can make a place
doubly fascinating in the present. Walking across the grey
cobblestones on Red Square and looking up at Saint Basil’s
Cathedral, its splendid colours amplify the memories of the
low-definition footage on TV I remember growing up.
The Kremlin, seat of the Russian government, is largely
hidden from view by walls surrounding it, except for the famous
clock on the Spasskaya tower near the end of Red Square.
The clock is shown reaching midnight each New Year’s
Eve on all state TV channels, right after President Vladimir
Putin’s traditional speech and just before the national
anthem kicks in. It never fails to give me goosebumps.
Very near the Kremlin sits The Bolshoi Theatre, home
of the Bolshoi Ballet. The building was shuttered for more
than six years for renovation and re-opened in late 2011. The
biggest overhaul in the building’s history came with a price
tag of more than $1 billion US.
Photo courtesy Publishing House of RUTI.
the most billionnaires.
With more trust in consumer goods than in banks,
Russians love spending, especially in Moscow, where
inhabitants drop three-quarters of their income on
shopping, whether on cars or purses.
Stroll along hyper-fashionable Stoleshnikov Pereulok
and visit Christian Louboutin, Agent Provocateur and other
luxury brands. There’s also plenty to see and shop for on
Novy Arbat Street, Kutuzovsky Prospekt, Leninsky Avenue
and Tretyakovsky Passage.
Russians are mad for malls, including Barvikha Luxury
Village where tenants include the likes of Ferrari, Bentley,
Baccarat and Tom Ford and the Mercury City complex
whose head is Leonid Strunin, chairman of Mercury, the
largest luxury retailer in the Russian Federation.
Another mall named Crocus City features shops by
Viviennne Westwood and Armani. But these are some
ways out of town and unless you are mad to see them,
I wouldn’t bother.
In central Moscow, some historical buildings have been
turned into luxury outlets. The most famous is the GUM
Photo courtesy Mercury Group Moscow
Because I grew up in Belgium, my mental image of
Russia was shaped by gloomy news reports and outdated
school books.
It was 10 years ago, that I actually arrived in Russia to
live in Moscow. To say that I was slightly apprehensive as
I headed towards the surly border control agent – do they
come any other way? – would be an understatement.
But after a short and entirely silent inspection of my
passport, a frighteningly loud stamp indicated my release
into the wild. I was definitely not in Kansas anymore.
In the decade since, I’ve seen changes aplenty – most
notably, for the traveller who enjoys fine dining and other
creature comforts, in the availability of sophisticated options
in Moscow. Capital of the Russian Federation and with a
population that is approaching 12 million, Moscow was
named in a 2012 Forbes article among the world’s cities with
If you’d like to imagine yourself at a 19th-century ballet
performance, the Bolshoi is definitely the place to go.
The best way to get around Moscow is undoubtedly
the subway. I believe it is the only government operation in
Moscow which that runs like clockwork. The stations lie deep
underground, a reminder that they were constructed during
a time when the threat of nuclear warheads falling from the
(Top) The refurbished street named Tretyakovsky Proyezd in
central Moscow has numerous luxury shops; (bottom left) With a
1908 façade, TSUM is Moscow’s hippest department store;
defensive walls (bottom right) with their famous towers have
protected the Kremlin for centuries.
If you want to sample Moscow’s nightlife, check out
the “Red October” area, which is a hotbed of bars, clubs and
restaurants on the Moscow River. It used to be home to the
Red October chocolate factory, of which now only a museum
remains. A late evening visit to the Rolling Stone Bar or Bar
Strelka is something you are likely to remember, provided
you don’t get too carried away with the vodka tasting.
In many ways, Moscow is a city of extremes, and this
seems to be well reflected in Muscovites’ nature. Seen from
the outside, they can appear as cold and dark as the Russian
winter. But get to know them better, and they turn out to be
as surprisingly warm as a Moscow summer.
Russians are also an immensely welcoming and curious
people, especially when they meet foreigners. You might
come to Moscow for the superlative architecture, its history
or its many-layered cultural offerings, but in the end, it’s the
people that who will make you want to stay.
Photo courtesy of Varvary
The beautiful façade of the Bolshoi Theatre (below left) is a
Moscow landmark; (top left) the striking Mayakovskaya subway
station impresses; Anatoliy Komm (centre) in the kitchen of Varvary;
the sumptuous interior of Turandot restaurant (below).
Fine wines, meanwhile, are definitely a precious
commodity in Moscow. One of the best places to enjoy a nice
glass – or several – along with a plate of great food would
be the “Grand Cru” wine bar in the quiet Patriarch Ponds
district (Mayakovskaya subway stop). This neighbourhood
is one of the most pleasant in Moscow and home to many
expats, so English is commonly spoken.
Photo courtesy Turandot restaurant.
Photo courtesy Publishing House of RUTI.
Photo courtesy Publishing House of RUTI.
sky was a genuine consideration.
Far from being bunker-esque, the stations are beautifully
decorated and worth a visit on their own. Stations are densely
packed throughout the city centre, so you never have to look
too hard to find one. Single fares are about $1 US, and there is
no limit on the distance you can travel.
In recent years, Moscow has become host to a large
number of very fine restaurants. Well-travelled Russians
have absorbed parts of the culture and etiquette from
other countries, sampled the best foods money can buy, and
brought some of it back with them. Upscale supermarket
chains are ubiquitous, such as “Azbuka Vkusa”, selling
high-quality Russian and international food products.
As well, top international chefs have turned their talents
to Moscow restaurants, including Nicolas Courtois, executive
chef at the Ritz Carlton Moscow. In the luxury Lotte Hotel
on the new Arbat, Moscow’s financial and shopping mecca is
“Les Menus,” where three-Michelin-star French chef Pierre
Garnier, who also has restaurants in London, Seoul, Las Vegas
and Dubai, offers dishes such as saddle of lamb roasted with
oregano and served with Roquefort galette.
There are some very accomplished Russian chefs as
well — the most famous being Anatoliy Komm. His restaurant,
“Varvary,” offers cuisine at the highest level with a
delectable menu that features borscht with foie gras,
dumplings with Kamchatka crab and sour cream with herbs,
and quail and eggplant with strawberries.
Another favourite for Russian-French food, although
somewhat tourist-y, is “Café Pushkin”, housed in a vintage
mansion on Tverskoy Boulevard.
IF YOU GO
Canadian Embassy: 23, Starolonyushenny Pereulok
(Metro: Kropotkinskaya); 011- 7-495-925-6000.
FLIGHTS: Aeroflot Russian Airlines flies non-stop from
Toronto to Moscow three times a week.
(888)-340-6400;. www.aeroflot.ru.
Transaero flies non- stop on Saturday from Toronto
to Moscow. For reservations, call (877)-747-1191;
transaero.ru.
HOTELS: Hotel Metropol Moscow: Old World grand
style. 2, Teatrainy Proezd; 011- 7- 499- 501- 78- 00;
visit metropol-moscow.ru; e-mail: [email protected].
Ararat Park Hyatt Moscow: 4 Neglinnaya St. 4. Moscow;
011- 7- 495-783-1234; moscow.park.hyatt.com.
VISAS: Canadians require visas to visit the Russian
Federation. Log on to: rusembassy.ca for
details and fees.
TOUR COMPANIES: Kensington Tours (888)-268-1785;
kensingtontours.com. See also Abercrombie & Kent
(800-554-7016; abercrombiekent.com.
TROUBLESHOOTING: Canada’s Department of External
Affairs and International Trade operates a 24 phone line,
seven days a week. (810)-800-201-41012 (toll free from
Russia only).
RESTAURANTS:
Varvary: 8A Strastnoy Boulevard 8A;, 7-495-229-28-00;
anatolykomm.ru.
Uilliams: 20A Malaya Bronnaya 20A; 7- 495- 650- 64- 62;
uilliams.ru.
Turandot: Tverskoy Boulevard, 26/5; 7-495-739-00-11;
[email protected]; turandotpalace.ru.
WHAT TO BUY: Malachite gemstone boxes are
traditional Russian gifts, and can be found in the GUM
department store. For funky, inexpensive souvenirs, try
Heart of Moscow. See heartofmoscow.ru.
Say ‘”Sydney” and the first
things that pop into many nonAustralians’ minds are probably
the Sydney Opera House and
maybe Harbour Bridge. What’s
your favourite local icon? What
do you love about it?
The Art Gallery of New South Wales,
located between the harbour and the
Royal Botanic Gardens, is where my
interest in the arts was fostered. It’s the
major museum space in Sydney, with an
incredible collection of international and
Australian art. I’m also on the board! But
my understanding of the complexities
of human nature and the powerful effect
of a healthy culture on society was
nurtured in that grand old building.
A Q&A with artist Ben Quilty
by John Fitzgerald
Recipient of the 2011 Archibald Prize,
Australia’s top prize for portraiture, among
numerous other awards, contemporary
artist Ben Quilty (benquilty.com) was born
in 1973 in northwest Sydney. His paintings
are in the permanent collections of the Art
Gallery of New South Wales as well as other
museums and galleries. As an Official War
Artist, Quilty was attached to the Australian
Defence Force in Afghanistan from October
11 to November 3, 2011. The results of his
work were chronicled in the documentary War
Paint, which aired in 2012 on the Australian
Broadcasting Corporation (ABC).
What do you remember about growing up
in Sydney?
I grew up on the far northwestern outskirts of Sydney in
a district called the Hills. It’s wild bush that verges on
the southern banks of the grand sandstone cliffs of the
Hawkesbury River. Enormous red angophora gum trees
twist around the mountaintops, and the valleys are thick
with cold-climate rainforest. It was an incredible place
to grow up. We spent our school holidays between deep
waterholes and the theatres and
art galleries of the city an
hour’s drive away.
How has the city influenced you
as an artist? Were Sydneysiders
accepting of your work right
away?
Yes. Sydney has a lack of selfconsciousness that I adore.
Sydneysiders will embrace everything.
Sydney is home to some of the biggest arts festivals in the
world, and the gay and lesbian Mardi Gras is a spectacular
highlight of the calendar. Sydney is my home, and exhibiting
at home is always a pleasure. I think that the city is a
melting pot. On one hand, it has breathtaking natural
beauty, but also a flourishing and unpretentious culture
that is informed so deeply by the 40,000 years of aboriginal
culture and history that the city is built upon.
Describe Sydney in colours?
Sydney came under direct attack during the Second World
War. And during the First World War, more than 60,000
Australian men were killed. Considering Australia’s tiny
population, it goes a long way to describe the national
psyche of the time. During the Depression years of the
1930s, many buildings were removed and few citizens paid
attention. It’s very different now.
Probably everyone who visits Sydney heads to
Darling Harbour. Where else can you go to enjoy
great views?
The Royal Botanic Gardens are without doubt one of the
most beautifully preserved Victorian gardens, right on the
edge of the city’s central business district and surrounded
by the harbour. From the gardens, you’ll get perfect views
of the bridge and the Opera House. Also, visit the beaches
up north and south. And the Heads, which bring the harbour
into Sydney, are amazing and a door to the Pacific Ocean
for the city.
One of Sydney’s great streets is Paddington,
especially in the evenings. What’s special about it?
Paddington was home to the famous artists of the earlier
part of the last century. They were in Paddington, right on
the edge of the harbour, because it was cheap. Balmain has
a similar feel and similar history. Both have old bars and
pubs and wonderful restaurants. Both are now home
to movie stars and art galleries. The artists have moved
further out!
Where is the best place to see work by Australian
artists?
Buy the Art Almanac and get a cab to take you around
Paddington and then further out, toward the airport at
Danks Street.
The city has the haunting purples and blues of the Blue
Mountains, orange sandstone cliffs, and the deep green
Pacific Ocean.
Sydney has an interesting food culture with
influences from all over the place, especially
Asia. What are your three top restaurant picks
and why?
What’s the best small hotel in Sydney?
Longrain in Surry Hills. It has an amazing fusion of
Australian-inspired Asian dishes, a beautiful space and
friendly staff. Another is the Sardine Room, Potts Point, just
at the door to Kings Cross. It’s a tiny room, but they offer
first-rate seafood. And there’s Lucio’s in Paddington, which
boasts the best Italian food in Sydney. Lucio (Galletto) is
famous for having swapped artists’ artwork for lunches for
decades. The restaurant is filled with it.
I always stay at the Sofitel Wentworth because it’s close
to the Art Gallery of New South Wales and the Museum of
Contemporary Art at Circular Quay.
Melbourne has preserved much more of its
Victorian architecture than Sydney. Why is that,
do you think?
I’m not so sure Melbourne has succeeded in protecting
more . . . that’s debatable. Both cities are new in
comparison to European cities . . . and town planning
wasn’t a priority in the early parts of the last century, when
war directly threatened Sydney. It’s often forgotten that
Who are some Australian artists to watch?
Del Kathryn Barton, Caroline Rothwell, Fiona Lowry, David
Griggs and Brendan Huntley.
What I Love About
28
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grand r lasting impresssions
Northern Exposure
Assembled in a single day in Feb. 1998, the 20 metres high statue
in rusty bronze is entitled Angel of the North. Rooted in the ground
or a mound actually, it commands a windswept expanse that
borders the AI motorway in the heart of Geordie country. Being
driven from Newcastle Gateshead to Durham one afternoon,
I thought when I saw the artwork that it was a pretty awesome
apparition. Its great height (20 metres) is balanced by a 54-metre
wingspan that supposedly is almost the same length as that of
a 747. How cool is that? The wings are positioned at 3.5-degree
angle, as sculptor Antony Gormley, a Turner Prize winner
has suggested, give the idea of an embrace. The angel was
commissioned on a site that used to be a colliery pithead in the
days when Newcastle was the king of coal. Built to withstand
winds of more than 160 km per hour, it’s supposed to last for a
century and probably will if popularity has anything to do with
it. It’s estimated that more than 30 million people a year see the
angel from their cars as they travel along the AI or through the
windows of the London-Edinburgh train that passes right by the
site. There are crowds at its base as well, folks stopping for a
snap or two before continuing on their windy ways.
Photo and text by John Fitzgerald
30
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