MICHELE TESSLER

michelE Tessler
art direction & design
917/679.4354
beauty
8 INNOVATIONS THAT FIGHT FINE LINES, ERASE
SUN DAMAGE, SMOOTH CELLULITE, AND MORE
“In the last three years we’ve seen more advances in skincare than we did
in the 10 years prior,” says Ranella Hirsch, M.D., a Boston dermatologist
and president of the American Academy of Cosmetic Dermatology and
Aesthetic Surgery. “Trouble is, we’ve also seen a proliferation of products
and procedures claiming to be the next fountain of youth.” So how do you
and improve
your skin with
today’s antiaging makeup
HAIR: ANTONIO DIAZ FOR WT MANAGEMENT USING REDKEN. MAKEUP:
ANGIE PARKER FOR JGK INC. USING NARS. STILL LIFE: NICOLAI GROSELL
tell the difference between true innovation and just another clever
gimmick? Proven results. These developments don’t just promise betterlooking, healthier skin—they’ve delivered it, in the lab and on real women.
BY GENEVIEVE MONSMA
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES HOUSTON
ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY LAUREL NAVERSON
SHAPE January 2008 | 131
WHAT’S NEW
WHAT’S NEW
WHAT’S NEW
WHAT’S NEW
A cream that helps
prevent skin cancer
Makeup that slows
down aging
A lunchtime filler
with zero downtime
Clothing that
soothes dry skin
HOW IT WORKS
HOW IT WORKS
HOW IT WORKS
HOW IT WORKS
Sunscreen lowers your
cancer odds by blocking UV radiation. But
what if you miss a
spot and get burned?
Enter Dimericine, a
soon-to-be-approved
prescription-only cream
with an enzyme that
repairs sun-related DNA
damage. The outcome:
Skin that’s less lined,
more even-toned, and
less likely to develop
basal cell carcinoma,
the most common
form of skin cancer.
“Dimericine’s enzyme
technology was
developed by scientists
associated with the
National Institutes
of Health. It’s the real
deal,” says Jeffrey
Dover, M.D., an associate
clinical professor of
dermatology at the Yale
University School of
Medicine. While awaiting FDA approval for
Dimericine (expected in
early 2008), parent
company AGI Dermatics
launched Remergent
DNA Repair Formula
($125; remergentskin
.com), using a synthetic
version of Dimericine’s
enzyme technology.
Though less potent, it’s
still an effective salve.
Plenty of cosmetics tout
sunscreens, moisturizers,
and “illuminating”
ingredients to stave
off or minimize fine
lines. But few have
incorporated powerhouse antiaging
ingredients into their
color products—until
now. The True Protective
Collection is packed
with idebenone, an
antioxidant shown in
The Journal of Cosmetic
Dermatology to be a
top free-radical fighter.
“For maximum benefits,
I’d layer idebenone with
products that contain
other antioxidants like
vitamins E and C,” says
Jeannette Graf, M.D., a
dermatologist in Great
Neck, New York.
“Studies show that
combined free-radicalfighting power far
surpasses the benefits of
wearing just one antioxidant, even if it’s touted
as the best.” The True
Cosmetics line includes
a lip treatment, shadow
primer, concealer, and
foundation. Prices
range from $12 to $40
at truecosmetics.com.
Juvéderm, a new
injectable gel made
from hyaluronic acid
(a humectant found
naturally in the skin)
can be used to erase
fine lines, minimize dark
circles, and plump lips—
and is becoming the
treatment of choice for
patients who can’t
tolerate the swelling
often associated with
other fillers. “If a woman
comes in for lip plumping and wants to go out
that evening, I’ll often
pick Juvéderm over its
competitors [Restylane
and Perlane] because
the swelling is less
severe,” says Dover.
Most doctors consider
Juvéderm’s thin,
smooth formula to be
slightly easier to inject
than Restylane’s thicker
one—which may explain
why it tends to leave
the skin less puffy. The
downside: The results
may be a bit less
dramatic. “Juvéderm is
great in the lips, but for
deep lines Restylane
provides a more noticeable outcome,” says
Fredric Brandt, M.D., a
Miami- and Manhattanbased dermatologist.
Prices start at $400; go
to juvedermusa.com for
more information.
DermaSmart T-shirts
and long john–style
pants have a breathable, silky weave and
flat seams so they
generate less than half
the friction of your
softest cotton tee.
“When you suffer from
eczema, psoriasis, or
severely dry skin, even
the tiniest amount
of rubbing can feel like
scratchy fingernails,”
says Francesca Fusco,
M.D., an assistant
clinical professor of
dermatology at the
Mount Sinai School
of Medicine in New York
City. To further guard
against irritating your
most sensitive areas,
the line is also loosefitting and free of any
dyes or formaldehyde, a
potentially irritating
chemical often used to
keep clothes fresh while
they’re shipped from
the manufacturer to
stores. Wear them
under your clothes in
the wintertime, or as
PJs. Prices range
from $36 to $54 at
dermasmart.com.
THE LATEST ADVANCES
Remergent
DNA Repair
Formula
will look young
longer thanks
to new creams
that undo
UV damage
True Cosmetics
brush, powder
foundation,
and concealer
DermaSmart
T-shirts
132 | SHAPE Month 2007 | Shape.com
SHAPE January 2008 | 133
dimple-free
skin can
be achieved
with a new
handheld
device
WHAT’S NEW
WHAT’S NEW
WHAT’S NEW
WHAT’S NEW
A serum that evens
your complexion
A laser-free
wrinkle eraser
Potent vitamin C
that doesn’t go bad
A cellulite smoother
with lasting results
HOW IT WORKS
HOW IT WORKS
HOW IT WORKS
HOW IT WORKS
For women who suffer
from melasma or
pronounced brown
spots (aka hyperpigmentation), there
have been few
over-the-counter fixes.
Fortunately, that’s
changing: Neova
Manganese Skin
Brightening Serum
($100; dermadoctor
.com) relies on
manganese, a mineral
that inhibits melanin
production, to reduce
discoloration. In a
recent study at New
York City’s Mount Sinai
School of Medicine,
subjects who used the
serum for 12 weeks
showed at least a
30 percent decrease
in hyperpigmentation.
But the good news
doesn’t end there.
Glucosamine, contained
in Olay’s Definity line
($10–28; at drugstores),
has also been shown to
reduce melanin
production—plus it
exfoliates. “Ideally, I’d
use the manganese and
glucosamine products
together. They target
the problem differently,”
says Graf. “Coupled,
they give the most
dramatic results.”
To nix fine lines after
just one treatment, CO2
lasers were once the
gold standard. Problem
is, most patients
couldn’t tolerate the
two- to three-week
recovery. Then came
non-ablative lasers like
YAG, which leaves your
face less raw—but
requires six-plus treatments to see results.
Now there’s Portrait
Plasma, an in-office
treatment that employs
a handheld device to
heat skin with nitrogenbased plasma, instantly
stimulating collagen
production and
smoothing lines—with
less than a week of
downtime. “It does
leave you looking
deeply sunburned, but
most patients’ complexions clear up within five
days,” says Tina Alster,
M.D., director of the
Washington Institute of
Dermatologic Laser
Surgery. Studies have
shown up to a 60
percent reduction in
wrinkles. The session
takes 15 to 45 minutes,
depending on how
much skin you cover,
and most patients opt
for a topical anesthetic.
Prices start at $2,500;
visit rhytec.com to
find a doctor near you.
“Vitamin C is an effective
antioxidant, but it
degrades in moisture
and light, making it
difficult to use in skin
products,” says Leslie
Baumann, M.D., a professor of dermatology
at the University of
Miami. Skincare companies have tried to work
around this issue by
packaging vitamin C
products in opaque
bottles, or by keeping
the antioxidant and
liquid separate until it
came time for application. But the advent of
crystallized vitamin C
makes all that unnecessary. This fine powder
can be applied directly
to skin or blended with
lotion to get the
benefits of free radicals—
without spoilage. The
only caveat? “If you
add the powder to
lotion, apply it within
24 hours for maximum
potency,” says Graf. Try
Dr. Sebagh Vitamin C
Powder Cream ($155
for 30 doses; blissworld
.com) or Philosophy
Hope and a Prayer
Vitamin C Powder
($35; beauty.com).
Although Endermologie
(deep massage with
a handheld roller) and
VelaSmooth (deep
massage plus radio
frequency and light
therapies) are effective
antidotes to cellulite,
their results are
typically minimized
once treatment ceases.
The Accent radio
frequency device
(already used to lift
brows), however, has
been shown to smooth
cellulite just as well—
with results that last.
In a recent study by
researchers associated
with the Mount Sinai
School of Medicine, six
20-minute, biweekly
treatments with Accent
whittled away an
average of 1 inch
around each thigh and
significantly diminished
dimpling. Even better?
The results lasted six
months. “My guess is
that women will need
just one treatment
annually for maintenance,”
says David Goldberg,
M.D., author of the
study. Because the
Accent device is already
in many doctors’ offices,
its usage on cellulite
is expected to take
off in 2008. Prices
start at around $400
per session.
THE LATEST ADVANCES
Portrait
Plasma
handheld
device
Dr. Sebagh
Vitamin C
Powder Cream
Neova
Manganese
Serum
Olay
Definity
lotion,
cream, and
eye cream
Philosophy
Vitamin C
Powder
Shape.com | SHAPE Month 2007 | 135
WAYS
TO LOOK
YOUR
BEST
TODAY AND
IN 20 YEARS
WHO NEEDS SURGERY?
SOMETIMES ALL IT TAKES IS A FEW SIMPLE TWEAKS TO KEEP
YOU LOOKING GORGEOUS. START NOW, AND IN NO TIME
YOU’LL BE LOVING WHAT YOU SEE—WELL INTO THE FUTURE.
BY DIDI GLUCK
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEN BROWAR
204 | SHAPE Month 2008 | Shape.com
MAKEUP: LAUREN GOTT FOR DERMALOGICA. HAIR: MICHELE GARZIANO AT ART MIX BEAUTY
20
1
GET A CUT THAT SUITS
YOUR LIFESTYLE
“Be realistic about how long
you have to do your hair in
the morning, then work with
your stylist to find a look you
can re-create in that amount
of time,” says Gretta Cole,
owner of the eponymous
Boston salon. Two low-fuss
options: If your hair is straight,
go for a layered cut that
will dry with plenty of volume
whether or not you use
the dryer. If you have curls,
consider growing them
long. Their weight will prevent
puffiness even when you
can’t blow-dry.
Shape.com | SHAPE Month 2008 | 205
3
GO FOR THE BRONZE
Thanks to fluctuating
hormones and the sun’s UV
rays, our complexion becomes
increasingly mottled as we age.
The easiest way to even out
discoloration? Use a big fluffy
brush to swipe powder bronzer
over your whole face (layer
blush on top). “The tannish tint
camouflages dark spots on
any complexion, giving you a
uniform, younger look,” says
Eugenia Weston, a makeup artist
in Los Angeles. For the most
natural effect, pick a bronzer no
more than one shade deeper
than your skin color. Try Terre
d’Eté by T. LeClerc ($55; 888222-7639 for Barneys stores).
4
2
SPLURGE ON THE
RIGHT TOOLS If you’re
still carrying around those
tiny applicators that often
come in compacts, you’re
not using your makeup to its
fullest potential. Stock your
cosmetics bag with a
powder brush (use it for
loose powder, bronzer, and
blush), a “crease” brush that
concentrates color on your
lids, a concealer brush for
applying cover-up under
your eyes and around your
nose, and a short angled
brush to perfectly place gel
eyeliner and brow powder.
NEVER STEP OUT SANS
PROTECTION “Regardless
of how much damage you’ve
accrued, using a high-SPF
sunscreen every day, year-round,
is key to preventing wrinkles
from forming. Keep it in the
bathroom next to your toothbrush so it becomes a habit,”
says dermatologist Jody Levine,
M.D., of Plastic Surgery &
Dermatology of NYC, who also
suggests choosing a formula
with free radical–fighting antioxidants like green tea or vitamins
C and E, which have been proven
to enhance the efficacy of your
sunscreen. Aim for an SPF of 20
to 70; most people under-apply,
so the higher you go, the better
chance you have at getting
adequate protection. Editors’
pick: Neutrogena Anti-Oxidant
Age Reverse Day Lotion with
SPF 20 ($20; at drugstores).
5
TAKE A MAKEUP LESSON
“Trends change quickly
these days, and technology is
evolving so rapidly that it’s wise
to have a professional show you
how to make the newest colors
and textures work for you—once
a year if possible—so you never
end up with a dated look,” says
Weston. In general, department
store makeup artists are more
than happy to demonstrate ways
you can update your look—for
free. Most beauty companies
introduce new collections for the
spring and fall, so drop by their
counters in February or August.
6
BOOK A BROW
APPOINTMENT WITH
A PROFESSIONAL “With time,
our natural brow line begins to
droop, particularly at the outer
corners,” says Sue Ellen Gifford,
an aesthetician at the Pierre
Michel Salon in New York City.
“A well-groomed brow opens up
the eye area and can give your
whole face a lift without needles
or surgery.” Visit a pro for
shaping every six to eight weeks;
like the hair on your head, brows
grow and require maintenance.
Expect to pay anywhere from
$20 to $60 for the service.
7
USE LESS FOUNDATION
“When applied in excess,
foundation can actually emphasize fine lines and wrinkles,”
says Weston. To determine the
amount you need, follow this
guide: For liquids, a dime-size
dollop will cover your face and
neck; for powders and creams, a
thin layer or two is sufficient.
Weston recommends always
using a primer underneath your
base to help the makeup you
put on top spread more evenly
(i.e., not settle into creases) and
adhere to skin all day long. Best
bet: Lorac AquaPrime ($30;
sephora.com), an oil-free formula
that won’t clog pores.
8
HYDRATE, HYDRATE, AND
HYDRATE SOME MORE
Perpetual lack of moisture
makes your face more likely to
develop lines. That’s why
consistent moisturizer use is a
must, whether your complexion
is dry or oily. If you have normal
skin, apply an antiaging formula
like Estée Lauder Re-Nutriv
Ultimate Youth Creme ($250;
esteelauder.com)—which is
packed with resveratrol, a
powerful antioxidant—morning
and night. If your face tends
to be greasy, use an oil-free
moisturizer in the morning only,
advises Levine. And if you’re
really dry, “rub Vaseline
Petroleum Jelly over your night
cream,” she says. “This traps in
hydration without clogging
pores. By the time you wake up,
your skin is super-smooth.”
9
DON’T CLIP YOUR CUTICLES
“They’re essentially the only
living part of your nail; trimming
can traumatize them and trigger
defects and ridges as your nails
grow,” says Loretta Ciraldo, M.D.,
a dermatologist in Miami. To
keep cuticles neat and
discourage future growth, Kristi
Marie Jones, a celebrity
manicurist in Los Angeles,
recommends soaking them in
a bowl of warm water with a
squirt of Blue Cross Cuticle
Remover ($5; sallybeauty.com),
then using a fairly rough nail
file to rub the dead skin off the
nail bed. Finish by conditioning
and nourishing the area with
a thick hand cream or pure shea
butter like Narayan Shea Butter
in Joyful Spirit ($23; narayan
beauty.com), which contains
mood-boosting essential oils.
10
T. LECLERC
bronzer
imparts a
healthy glow
on every
skin tone
STOCK UP ON SPONGES
Blending is the cornerstone of a flawless makeup look
devoid of noticeable lines, and
nothing gets the job done
like a makeup sponge. “It’s the
ideal tool for spreading liquid
foundation, but you can also
dampen it, squeeze it out, and
press it gently onto your face to
smooth and freshen hours-old
makeup,” says Sandy Linter, a
makeup artist at the Rita Hazan
salon in New York City. Her
favorites: Alcone sponges
($3 for eight; alconeco.com).
Dip into any formula and swipe
onto skin in long strokes.
11
CHLOÉ PERFUME
is a timeless
floral blend that wears
well in winter
ALCONE SPONGES
give you a
seamless finish—and
are reusable!
INDULGE IN MORE THAN
ONE FRAGRANCE “The
idea of one signature scent is
outdated,” says Ellen Molner,
senior vice president of
Givaudan Fragrances, which
creates perfumes for many top
beauty companies. It’s more
ESTÉE LAUDER
cream keeps your
skin hydrated and
your cells healthy
Shape.com | SHAPE February 2008 | 207
LANCÔME
AND CHANEL
RED
LIPSTICKS
give you a classic
look. Apply
with fingers to
create a sexy stain
modern to rotate your fragrances
throughout the year depending
on the season. “Save the
refreshing, citrusy scents for
summer, when your skin is hot
and intensifies the perfumes
you wear, and use the richer
fragrances with spicy or musky
notes for winter, when they
won’t overpower,” says Molner.
For cooler temps, try Chloé Eau
de Parfum ($80; saksfifthavenue
.com), with heady magnolia
and warm amber. As spring
begins, spritz on Clinique Happy
($38; clinique.com), laced with
ruby red grapefruit.
12
SENNA
CLEAR LIP
GLOSS
makes your
lips look fuller
and pinker
(read: younger)
SOTHYS EYE
CREAM
plumps lines
and lessens the
severity
of crow’s feet
START USING A RETINOL
PRODUCT EARLY ON
“Once a patient hits 20—unless
she’s pregnant or nursing—I tell
her to incorporate retinol [a
vitamin A derivative] into her
regimen,” says Levine. “It’s the
only ingredient that’s been
consistently proven to improve
discoloration, wrinkles, and even
pimples over the long term.
Every woman can benefit from
it.” Smooth onto your face and
neck at night (retinol can make
your skin sensitive to UV light,
so it’s best not to use it while the
sun’s out). Some good choices
include Boots No. 7 Restore &
Renew Beauty Serum ($22;
target.com), a light emulsion
that also tightens pores, and
RoC Retinol Correxion Deep
Wrinkle Night Cream ($18;
at drugstores), a thicker formula
with pure retinol and a mineral
complex, which work
in tandem to lessen lines.
13
RETHINK YOUR
STIFF-HOLD HAIR SPRAY
“Hair that’s shiny and moves
freely projects youth; just picture
a little kid’s locks,” says salon
owner Gretta Cole. If you require
hold, try a spritz labeled “flexible,”
which typically means it contains
polymers that bend and move
with your hair rather than
plastering it to your scalp. Try
Dove Flexible Hold Hairspray
with Natural Movement ($4; at
drugstores); it dries in seconds.
208 | SHAPE February 2008 | Shape.com
14
KEEP A TUBE OF CLEAR
GLOSS IN YOUR BAG
As we age, our lips lose collagen
and pigment, making them
appear thinner and less rosy.
“Applying clear gloss adds
instant dimension and sheen,”
says Weston. The latest versions
feature collagen-boosting
ingredients like dermaxyl and
maxi lip, and with continual use
they can make your pout
plumper. Try Senna Triple Lips
Glossy Lip Enhancer ($22;
sennacosmetics.com), with
both ingredients.
15
MASTER MAKEUP
HANDIWORK “Like paint
on a paintbrush, the first swipe
of any makeup color—lip, cheek,
or eye—always comes out
darkest,” says Weston. To ensure
you look glam, not garish,
control your application by using
the back of your hand as a
palette, applying cream formulas
to it before smoothing them
onto your face. When dusting
on powders, be sure to tap the
brush first on the edge of the
sink to remove excess product.
16
WHITEN YOUR TEETH
“The more you drink
staining beverages like red wine,
coffee, tea, and cola, and eat
foods with marinara or soy
sauce or blueberries, the dingier
your teeth will become,” says
Debra Glassman, D.D.S., a
cosmetic dentist in New York
City. To get yours in top form,
see your dentist for a Zoom 2.6
procedure—the latest incarnation
of the highly effective in-office
brightening treatment (cost:
approximately $500). For more
gradual, but also impressive,
results, try at-home whitening
strips or gels; use gels for larger
teeth and strips for smaller ones.
Expert picks: Crest Whitestrips
Daily Multicare ($40; at
drugstores) that work in just
five minutes a day, and the
Rembrandt Professional
Treatment Kit ($30; drugstore
.com), which comes with easyto-apply single-use doses of gel.
17
BE GENTLE TO YOUR
EYES “The skin around
your eyes is thin and delicate
and has no oil glands to keep it
supple,” says Sonya Dakar, a Los
Angeles aesthetician who has
worked with Debra Messing and
Drew Barrymore. When applying
eye makeup, cream, or concealer,
use a light touch to avoid pulling
at, and eventually breaking
down, the collagen and elastin
fibers that keep your under-eye
skin firm. Dakar suggests patting
in eye cream with your ring finger,
which is weakest and exerts the
least amount of pressure on the
skin, and making sure to extend
it toward your hairline, where
expression lines crop up first.
A top choice: Sothys ActiveContour Age Defying Cream
($46; skinstore.com), which has
a yeast derivative that firms skin.
18
ACCEPT THAT LESS IS
MORE As your face
19
LEARN TO LOVE YOUR
LOOKS The more you
20
FIND THE RIGHT
RED “Red lipstick
is a classic; it’s always feminine
and beautiful,” says Linter.
Every woman should have
one in her makeup arsenal, as
unlike trendier tones, reds
never go out of style. If you
have a warm, golden
complexion, choose an
orange-red like Lancôme
Color Fever in Hot Stuff
Rouge ($24; lancome-usa
.com); if your skin is paler, opt
for a blue-red, such as Chanel
Rouge Allure in Passion ($30;
chanel.com).
loses elasticity and moisture—a
by-product of age—color can
appear less flattering than it
once did (think of how bright
paint would look applied to
a wrinkled canvas as opposed
to a taut one). To guarantee
continued elegance, Weston
suggests playing up only your
best feature after age 30—
whether it’s your lips, cheeks, or
eyes—and minimizing the rest.
If you have great cheekbones,
for example, bring them out
with a moisturizing highlighter
(for hydration and a hint of tint),
then pair with a nude lip color
and a coat or two of mascara.
fight what you were given, the
less beautiful you appear.
“People who are unhappy
with their looks tend to
overcompensate with makeup or
plastic surgery, which can
ultimately yield an unnatural
effect,” says Rita Hazan’s Sandy
Linter, who adds that beauty is a
self-fulfilling prophecy. “When
you believe you’re beautiful, you
become more beautiful.”
Shape.com | SHAPE Month 2008 | 209
With good skin care and a stylish haircut,
almost anyone can get a glowing complexion
and sexy locks. But it’s knowing the little
(and surprisingly simple) tricks to play up those
assets that can really push your looks
to the next level. Try these celeb-tested strategies
and you’ll be red carpet–ready in no time.
by genevieve monsma
photography by ondrea barbe
Complement
navy-tinged
lashes with soft
pink lip color
and dewy skin
212 | SHAPE March
Month 2008
2008 || Shape.com
Shape.com
Shape.com | SHAPE Month 2008 | 213
1 make
red lipstick last longer
2
“Stain the skin on your lips by mixing red Jello or Kool-Aid
powder with a few drops of water; apply a thin layer of the
paste to your mouth and blot before swiping on your lip color,”
says Joanna Schlip, a makeup artist in Los Angeles whose
clients include Christina Applegate. “Bold lipstick tends to wear
off quickly in the middle of your mouth, leaving you with a dark
ring around your pout. Staining first prevents this effect.”
2 avoid
3
feathering
Use a small makeup brush to apply a stick cover-up like
Neutrogena 3-in-1 Concealer ($10; at drugstores) around your
lip line before smoothing on color, suggests Matin, a celebrity
makeup artist who has worked with Angelina Jolie.
3 keep
your color true
4 look
glowy, not greasy
4
Dab on
lipstick with
a finger for
precise
placement
HAIR: ROBERT LYON AT JED ROOT INC. MAKEUP: WADA AT JED ROOT INC. MODEL: GABRIELA/MARILYN. SWAROVSKI RING. PREVIOUS: GILES & BROTHER BY
PHILIP CRANGI RING. STILL LIFE: NICOLAI GROSELL. CELEBRITIES, FROM TOP: GETTY IMAGES; WIREIMAGE.COM; FILMMAGIC; WIREIMAGE.COM (2); GETTY IMAGES
If your base tends to turn orange on your complexion
(a common problem for those with oily skin), skip pigmented
powder. “Instead, set your foundation with a clear or white
translucent powder,” says Matin, who loves Three Custom Color
Translucent Face Powder ($37; threecustom.com).
5
You never know when the paparazzi will find you! So make
sure your forehead, the biggest oily area on most people’s
faces, is always matte, says Schlip, who advises clients like
Naomi Watts to pack a translucent loose powder in their purse
and dust it on every couple of hours to take down shine.
5 get
a whiter smile
Stick on teeth-whitening strips while you do your makeup,
says Ramy Gafni, a New York City makeup artist whose clients
include Halle Berry. Crest Whitestrips Daily Whitening Strips
plus Tartar Protection ($40; at drugstores) work in the time it
takes to apply foundation, blush, and gloss.
6 score
a false-lash effect
Makeup artist Mally Roncal creates extra-thick fringe on
Amanda Bynes’ eyes by “applying just one layer of black
mascara on the whole lash, root to end, then adding two extra
coats on only the outer third of her top lashes.” A best bet:
Neutrogena Healthy Volume Mascara ($8; at drugstores).
7 brighten
6
your eyes
Brush on navy mascara to counteract eye redness,
recommends Carol Shaw, a Los Angeles makeup artist
whose clients include Demi Moore. Try Lorac Visual Effects
Mascara in Midnight Blue ($20; sephora.com).
8 apply
7
foundation more evenly
8
Using a foundation brush, apply base to the middle of your
face (where you tend to require the most coverage) and work
your way out, says Schlip, who uses the technique on Hilary
Duff. Try Sephora Foundation Brush #47 ($24; sephora.com).
9 keep
polish from chipping
“Avoid lacquer altogether for two to three days once a month,”
says Natasha Kurpas, a manicurist at the Rita Hazan salon in
New York City who has groomed Jessica Simpson’s hands.
Letting nails go naked gives them a chance to rehydrate—and
moist nails hold on to polish better than brittle, dry ones.
10 plump
your lips
Roncal outlines and fills in client Teri Hatcher’s lips with
a flesh-toned liner, then tops with a high-shine gloss.
“Lips that reflect light look plumper than matte ones,”
she says. One nude pencil that flatters all: Mally Beauty
Shineliners Glossy Lipliner in Nudelight ($15; qvc.com).
9
10
1 hide
2
a bad hair day
Slide in a chic clip to turn an ordinary updo into a
major style statement, says stylist Mark Townsend, who
has worked on Christina Ricci. Some he loves: Chanel’s
camellia pins ($200 and up; at Chanel boutiques).
2 beef
up sparse strands
Make fine, thin hair feel thicker with dry shampoo such
as Klorane Extra Gentle Dry Shampoo ($16; folica.com),
suggests stylist David Evangelista, who has coiffed
Jennifer Jason Leigh. Start by sprinkling it in at the roots
to add density, then douse all over to set your style.
3 minimize
3
4
color damage
When she’s lightening the locks of clients like Ellen Pompeo,
New York City salon owner Rita Hazan adds a capsule of Phyto
Hule D’Alès ($26; phyto-usa.com for stores), a hydrating oil, to
her color formula to combat the drying effects of bleach. Try it
at home—or ask your colorist to use it—for similar results.
4 keep
your style sleek
5 stay
smooth all day
5
Switch brushes mid-blow-dry to avoid puffiness, says Beverly Hills
stylist Kim Vo, who does this when he’s styling Jenny McCarthy’s
hair. At home, blow-dry with a paddle brush until the hair is 90
percent dry, then switch to a round brush for the final few minutes.
This gives your hair shape without making it too helmet-like.
Use a conditioning spray before flat-ironing, says Townsend,
who prepared Reese Witherspoon for last year’s Golden
Globes. Townsend advises spritzing sections with Vavoom
Gold Heat Iron in Volume Protective Dry Mist ($16; matrix.com
for stores) before clamping down.
6 make
6
waves
“Get instantly glam strands with hot rollers,” says Vo, who
has used them on Kate Hudson. “For best results, roll your
bangs—or the front of your hair—forward, toward your face.
Then roll the rest of your locks back toward your nape. Leave
the curlers in for 20 to 30 minutes.” Once you’ve unwound all
your curls, tousle with your fingers.
7 build
7
more volume at your roots
Use a plastic comb to create body at the top of your hair while
blow-drying, says Evangelista, who works with Mandy Moore.
Lift hair and hold it taut off the scalp with the comb, then blast
the roots with hot air, hold until cool, and release.
Leave
a few
tendrils loose
to soften
an updo
216 | SHAPE Month 2008 | Shape.com
CHANEL HAIR PINS. CELEBRITIES: WIREIMAGE.COM
8 pump
up shine
Slather a deep-conditioning treatment on dry hair;
leave on for 10 minutes, then shampoo out, says Ted Gibson,
a stylist who uses his own Goodnite Replenish Hair
Repair Serum ($200; beauty.com) on Anne Hathaway.
9 reduce
heat damage
Spritz a heat-shielding spray like Nexxus Heat Protexx
Protection Styling Spray ($14; drugstore.com) on damp locks,
then blow-dry on low heat. “Though it takes a bit more time,
it’s gentler to the surface of your strands,” says Gibson, who
styles Claire Danes’s hair this way.
10 get
better body and color
Add a filter to your showerhead to stop the metals and sulfates
in hard water from stripping your color and making your hair
limp, says Jonathan Antin, the stylist on the reality show Blow
Out, who has worked with Kate Bosworth. Try Jonathan
Beauty Water shower purification system ($95; beauty.com).
9
10
gREEN
HOW
IS YOUR
EAUTY
ROUTINE?
When it comes to makeup, skin care, and hair care, it’s easier
to be eco-friendly than you think. We consulted the pros and
came up with these simple ideas for doing yourself and the planet
good, without compromising your looks.
BY GENEVIEVE MONSMA PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICOLAI GROSELL
You’ve read the reports: The glaciers are melting, the temperature
is rising, and the landfills are overflowing. And it’s not like you can dodge your
worries in the beauty aisles either. With more and more loot being
labeled organic or natural, new hype about toxic ingredients, and all that
plastic packaging, even the most eco-savvy consumer is likely
to be thoroughly perplexed. But navigating the world of cosmetics and
staying committed to helping the planet doesn’t have to be
anxiety-provoking. These expert suggestions and fabulous earth-friendly
finds will help you feel like a naturally gorgeous woman in no time.
Shape.com | SHAPE Month 2008 | 213
Aubrey Organics
Camomile Luxurious
Volumizing
Shampoo
know what “natural” really means Many companies
lay claim to the word on their labels—even if the
products contain some synthetic ingredients—because
there’s no standard definition of the term, says
Michael Herndon, a spokesman for the FDA, which
regulates the cosmetics industry. So what’s a girl who
wants a truly botanical experience to do? Look for
the Burt’s Bill Natural Standard seal, born from an
initiative developed by the all-natural beauty company
Burt’s Bees. Products with this label meet an agreedupon definition of natural (as determined by Burt’s
Bees and the Natural Products Association, a group
of more than 10,000 like-minded natural-care
companies): At least 95 percent of the products’
ingredients must be renewable, meaning once they’re
picked, they can easily be grown again. In addition,
they can’t contain any synthetics suspected to
have potential health risks. To find a complete list of
items—like Burt’s Bees Body Bars ($4; burtsbees
.com)—bearing the Burt’s Bill Natural Standard label,
log on to burtsbees.com.
CTonics
Essential
Organic
Cleansing
Treatment for
Hair & Scalp
in Passion
Josie Maran
Plumping Lip
Gloss in
Strength and
Lip Pencil in
Peach
Burt’s Bees
Extra Energizing
Citrus & Ginger
Root Body Bars
Origins Organics
Conditioning
Hair Oil
USDA allows the designation “100 percent organic”
only for products that are purely organic, meaning
their ingredients are grown without pesticides or
synthetic fertilizers. Keep in mind that products
identified as simply “organic” have at least 95 percent
organically produced ingredients, while those that
contain at least 70 percent organic ingredients may
use the phrase “made with organic ingredients” on
their labels, says Joan Schaffer, a spokeswoman
for the USDA. Even items that don’t meet any of these
standards may call out individual ingredients. They
could say “contains organic lavender,” which means
lavender is the only organic component of the
product. A few picks rich in organic ingredients:
Aura Cacia Lavender Oil ($13; auracacia.com) is 100
percent organic and can be used to create a relaxing
bath; Origins Organics Conditioning Hair Oil ($23;
origins.com) is 98 percent certified organic; CTonics
Essential Organic Cleansing Treatment for Hair &
Scalp in Passion ($25; ctonics.com) contains organic
botanical roots; Josie Maran Plumping Lip Gloss in
Strength ($18) and Lip Pencil in Peach ($16; both
at josiemarancosmetics.com) are infused with organic
argan oil; and Aubrey Organics Camomile Luxurious
Volumizing Shampoo ($10; aubrey-organics.com)
is made with organic aloe vera.
consider biodynamic options Sure you’ve heard
about products that are all-natural or organic, but
what is the term biodynamic all about? Sometimes
referred to as organic-plus, the biodynamic method
goes one step further than chemical-free organic
214 | SHAPE April 2008
HAIR: LAURA DELEON FOR JOE. MAKEUP: GIANPAOLO CECILIATO/JUDY CASEY INC. FOR
LANCÔME. MANICURE: FARRAH BRUNO FOR LIPPMANN COLLECTION. PROP STYLING: JEN
EVERETT. FASHION DIRECTOR: AMY BERLIN. PREVIOUS SPREAD: FOXY ORIGINALS EARRINGS
realize not everything is wholly organic The
fLOWERS
INFUSING
INTO
BEAUTY
PRODUCTS
is no longer just
about making them smell
good. Botanicals
are powerful, active
ingredients.
Shape.com | SHAPE Month 2008 | 215
farming: “It not only avoids harming the environment
with pesticides, it also nourishes the soil with herbs
and minerals to perpetuate healthy crops. In short, it
creates a self-sustaining ecosystem,” says Jennifer
Barkley of Weleda, a beauty company that uses
biodynamic ingredients. But should you jump on the
bandwagon? Although the jury is out on whether
biodynamically produced cosmetics are actually
better for you, many experts believe they could be
better for the planet because their ingredients are
cultivated conscientiously (e.g., there’s no need for
air-polluting trucks and planes to import fertilizer for
the crops). Some top biodynamic picks: Weleda Citrus
Creamy Body Wash ($15; usa.weleda.com), which
deep-cleans with lemon oil; Dr. Hauschka Lemon Body
Moisturizer ($37; drhauschka.com) with hydrating
quince seed extract; and Jurlique Replenishing
Foaming Cleanser ($40; jurlique.com), a gentle wash
that removes makeup and grime.
gREEN
USING
BODY
CARE
boosts your mood,
since it often contains
uplifting essential oils.
Weleda
Citrus Creamy
Body Wash
Lush Ocean
Salt Cleanser
look for “fair trade” on the label Why? Because
not only the company that manufactures the product
but also the community of people who cultivated
its ingredients will profit, explains Allison Lane of the
Body Shop (one of the first beauty brands to
introduce fair-trade practices, which are referred to
as “community-trade” on Body Shop labels). In
other words, when any company buys ingredients at
fair-trade prices, the workers who farm them are
paid wages that cover their living expenses. Fair trade
is considered good for you and others because the
growers are compensated well for their work, so they
are more invested in the product and strive to make it
the best it can be. Our fair-trade staples: The Body
Shop Moringa Body Butter ($20; thebodyshop.com)
with community-trade shea butter, cocoa butter, and
brazil nut oil; Dr. Bronner’s 18-in-1 Hemp Almond
Pure-Castile Soap ($9 for 16 oz.; drbronner.com) with
fair-trade organic olive oil; and Lush Ocean Salt
Cleanser ($18; lush.com), made with fair-trade sea salt.
Dr.
Bronner’s
Hemp
Almond
Soap
Jurlique
Replenishing
Foaming
Cleanser
ZOE CHICCO EARRINGS
choose your beauty battles Alarmed about lead
216 | SHAPE Month 2008 | Shape.com
in lipsticks and chemicals in nail polish? It’s important
to note that the FDA has not found harmful levels
of any of the following oft-vilified ingredients in any
beauty products: toluene (a solvent in nail polish),
formaldehyde (a preservative in nail polish as well as
in some in-salon hair-straightening treatments),
parabens (preservatives present in everything from
skin care to hair care), and sodium laurel sulfate (the
lathering agent in shampoo). And though you may
still be tempted to avoid these ingredients anyway,
know this: Synthetics do have some benefits. Most
products that have them typically stay fresh longer
(reducing the potential for spoilage or irritation) and
The Body
Shop Moringa
Body Butter
often cost less to formulate, creating savings that
are passed on to you. The bottom line? Try to find a
happy middle ground. If you’re enamored of an eye
cream that contains parabens but it’s never caused
an adverse reaction, go ahead and hold on to
it. Then dabble in the naturals world to find a new
favorite. One we’re loving now: Lavanila Vanilla
Blossom fragrance ($56 for 1 oz.; sephora.com) with
100 percent botanicals and no synthetic dyes.
Physicians
Formula Organic
Wear 100%
Natural Bronzer
in Light Skin
Aveda Inner
Light Shimmer
Accents
in Moonstone
Orly Nail Lacquer
in Petit Four
be aware of the trade-offs Natural beauty brands
used to be synonymous with ugly packaging and,
worse yet, ineffective products, but they’ve come a
long way in the past 10 years, says Jeremiah
McElwee, senior coordinator of Whole Foods Market’s
Whole Body Division, which includes natural personal
care brands. Still, there are differences in the way
certain natural products work that may take some
getting used to. Sulfate-free shampoos and body
washes, for instance, don’t suds up very well, though
they do clean your hair and skin thoroughly. All-natural
deodorants will nix odor but won’t stop wetness.
And fragrances with pure plant essences or essential
oils may not last as long on skin as their drug- or
department store counterparts. Here, a few naturally
beautiful finds you’ll adore: Orly Nail Lacquer in
Petit Four ($7; orlybeauty.com), which is free of both
toluene and formaldehyde; Physicians Formula
Organic Wear 100% Natural Bronzer in Light Skin
($14; at drugstores), produced without parabens
and packaged in biodegradable materials; Care by
Stella McCartney Purifying Foaming Cleanser
($35; sephora.com) with organic hawthorn extract;
sulfate-free Alterna Hemp with Organics shampoos
and conditioners ($23 to $28; 4alterna.com); Sally
Beauty New Image Naturals Bamboo Thermal
brushes ($7; sallybeauty.com), made from sustainable
bamboo wood; and Aveda Inner Light Shimmer
Accents in Moonstone ($21; aveda.com), an allover
highlighter for your face with organic bergamot,
lavender, lemon, and rose.
make little changes for a big impact Still
Sally Beauty
New Image
Naturals
Bamboo
Thermal
Brushes
218 | SHAPE April 2008
convinced you can’t make a difference? Try these
tweaks: Whether or not you’re an organic consumer,
see if you can whittle down your beauty regimens
for face, hair, and body to just two to four products,
rather than seven or eight, to minimize waste. Opt for
packaging that’s recyclable (usually indicated by a
triangle-shaped logo on the bottom of the container),
and make it a point to recycle the packaging when
you’re done. Unplug all of your beauty tools after
you’ve finished using them (even turned off, they zap
electricity). And avoid wasting cotton balls or pads—
aim to use just one when you’re applying facial
toner or removing nail polish.
cOLOR
ADDING
TO YOUR
LIFE
just got easier thanks
to dozens of
new earth-friendly
makeup lines.
Shape.com | SHAPE Month 2008 | 219