Contents - EURO COSMETICS Magazine
Transcription
Contents - EURO COSMETICS Magazine
t u s a a ri s t i s i P V etics 2016 m s o in-c 12 - 13, 44 l 1 Apri th No. A Boo 3 English/German Contents: Editorial 5 Names & News6 Interview A conversation with Martine Dols,10 Head of Marketing, Kolb Technical Articles The Role of Growth Factors in Skin Care14 By Neil Sadick, MD, FAAD, FAACS, FACP, FACPh Intensive Care for Sensitive Skin 18 By Mag. Vanessa Heezen The Micro-Inflammatory Theory of Aging 20 Paolo Giacomoni, Ph. D. Accelerated stability method for sunscreen 24 products performance assessment By Sébastien Miksa and Dominique Lutz Anti-glycation skin care – a promising 28 approach for young, mature and diabetic skin By Stefan Hettwer, Brigit Suter, Stefan Bänziger, Barbara Obermayer Adaptogene: Heilpflanzen gegen Stress,32 Skin Burn-out und für den Erhalt der jugendlichen Schönheit By Petra Schlegel News & Talk Belinda Carli, Director Institute of Personal Care Science about trends and news on the personal care market Trends & Markets Molecular Biology, Gene Expression and Cosmetics 36 38 By Howard Epstein, Ph.D. Regulation & Legislation The Ban on Microbeads in the US and the Global Effect 41 By Karen Yarussi-King New Ingredients43 Formulations46 Packaging & Machines49 Events Annual report DGP 201552 54 in-cosmetics Paris educational program Advertiser’s Index55 Market-Place56 Impressum55 March 2016 24. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 24 5 Editorial 6 Namen & Nachrichten 10 Interview 10 E in Gespräch mit Martine Dols, Head of Marketing, Kolb Inhalt EURO 14Fachbeiträge 14 The Role of Growth Factors in Skin Care COSMETICS Von Neil Sadick · Volume No. 24 · March 2016 Namen und Nachrichten – Seite 6 18 Intensive Care for Sensitive Skin Von Mag. Vanessa Heezen Interview Seite 10 20 The Micro-Inflammatory Theory of Aging Von Paolo Giacomoni, Ph. D. 24 Accelerated stability method for sunscreen products performance assessment Von Sébastien Miksa und Dominique Lutz Fachbeiträge – Seite 14 28 Anti-glycation skin care – a promising approach for young, mature and diabetic skin Von Stefan Hettwer, Brigit Suter, Stefan Bänziger und Barbara Obermayer 32 Adaptogene: Heilpflanzen gegen Stress, Skin Burn-out und für den Erhalt der jugendlichen Schönheit Von Petra Schlegel 36 News & Talk Belinda Carli, Director Talk Seite 36 Regulation & Legislation – Seite 41 Trends & Markets – Seite 38 Neue Inhaltsstoffe – Seite 43 Institute of Personal Care Science Über Trends und Neuigkeiten aus dem Personal Care Markt 38 Trends & Markets Molecular Biology, Gene Expression and Cosmetics Von Howard Epstein, Ph.D. Verpackung & Maschinen – Seite 49 41 Regulation & Legislation The Ban on Microbeads in the US and the Global Effect Von Karen Yarussi-King 43 46 49 52 Neue Inhaltsstoffe Formulierungen Verpackung & Maschinen Veranstaltungen Luminia Granatum PRCF Plasma Rich in Cell Factors Effektive, natürliche Whitening-Strategie mit dreifachem Ansatz auf Basis der Stammzelltechnologie: 52 Jahresbericht 2015 der DGP 54 in-cosmetics Paris Weiterbildungsprogramm • • • Brightening Perfector Texture & Tone Evener Radiance Enhancer PRCFTM ist das innovative und proprietäre Konzept der MOLECULAR SYNERGY, die Kraft der Pflanzen wirklich zu nutzen. 55 Advertiser’s Index 56 Marktplatz 55 Impressum weitere Informationen, Muster & Rahmenrezepturen unter: [email protected] Topics you can also read on our website 3-2016 3 EURO COSMETICS EDITORIAL Dear Readers, Liebe Leserinnen und Leser, Main Focus – Skin Focus Hauptsache – Hautsache Skin care is still the strongest segment in the cosmetics market. What’s trendy? Belinda Carli, Director of Institute of Personal Care Scienc, tells us more about this and why more and more multifunctional ‘actives’ being launched. Read the full interview about trends in the personal care market on page 36. Stärkstes Segment im Kosmetikmarkt bleibt nach wie vor die Hautpflege. Was gibt es hier an Neuheiten? Belinda Carli, Director Institute of Personal Care Science, erzählt uns im Interview darüber und erklärt u. a., warum immer mehr multifunktionelle Wirkstoffe auf den Markt kommen. Lesen Sie das ganze Interview zu den Trends aus dem Personal Care Bereich auf Seite 36. Belinda Carli holds a Bachelor of Natural Therapies, Diploma of Cosmetic Science and Certificate in Training and Assessment and is the Technical Advisor for all in-cosmetics shows, ensuring innovation and high technical content for visitors from Industry. She presents at the new workshop “Formulation lab” at in-cosmetics her lecture “Color Creation with Pigments that WOW!” Belinda Carli ist die Fachfrau für alle in-cosmetics Veranstaltungen, um den Fachbesuchern Innovation und den technischen Inhalt näher zu bringen. Sie präsentiert im neuen Workshop „Formulation lab“ auf der in-cosmetics ihren Vortrag “Color Creation with Pigments that WOW!” “Welcome to the world of molecular biology/gene expression”. A new column we would like to offer you for the first time written by Howard Epstein, Director for Technical Services for EMD. This and future columns will address the basic elements of the young and rapidly-growing scientific discipline known as molecular biology. Page 38. “Welcome to the world of molecular biology/gene expression”. Eine Kolumne von Howard Epstein, Director Technical Services von EMD, möchten wir Ihnen erstmalig in dieser Ausgabe vorstellen. Diese und auch zukünftige Kolumnen behandeln die Grundlagen der jungen und schnellwachsenden wissenschaftlichen Diszplin der Molekularbiologie. Seite 38. About the Ban on Microbeads in the US and the Global Effect, reports Karen Yarussi-King, President Global Regulatory Associates, Inc., Page 41. In the coming issues you will be informed by her about other topics. Zum Verbot von Kunststoff-Mikrokügelchen in Kosmetika in den USA und deren globaler Effekt, Seite 41 berichtet Karen Yarussi-King, Präsident von Global Regulatory Associates, Inc. . In den kommenden Ausgaben werden Sie zu weiteren Themen von ihr informiert werden. Enjoy reading. Viel Spaß beim Lesen dieser Ausgabe. Ihr EURO COSMETICS Team Your EURO COSMETICS team 3-2016 5 EURO COSMETICS NAMES & NEWS team and the customers will be supplied using both Polish and Romanian warehouses as well as our Istanbul facility. BGG Group to open European Subsidiary BGG Group announced today the opening of its third affiliate in Switzerland (BGG Europe SA), after having already successfully opened branch offices in North America and Japan. The Swiss affiliate will be based in Lugano and will be responsible for BGG operations in Europe. BGG has been supplying major partners in Europe for many years and is already real- izing 15% of its revenues in Europe. Thanks to this new branch office, BGG will be able to better serve its customers’ needs, while providing local technical assistance and innovative solutions. Gattefossé, a privatelyowned French company, founded in 1880, specialises in combining science and nature to develop innovative specialty Christian Artaria, Global Chief Marketing Executive of BGG Group, will be responsible for managing the new affiliate. n Safic-Alcan reorganises its Executive Management to pursue growth Safic-Alcan, an international distributor of specialty chemicals, announces Management Reorganisation, effective February 1st. 2016. Colep: 50 years in the packaging and consumer goods industries After half a century of sustained growth and commitment to aerosol can making and contract manufacturing, Colep is now widely recognised as a streamlined, global operation, adding value to its customer offer through innovation, technology and sustainable practices. Now with 11 manufacturing sites worldwide, located in Portugal, Brazil, Germany, Mexico, Poland and Spain, and alliances in Asia and the Middle East, Colep has true global reach. Founded in 1965 as a steel can making business in Portugal, Colep began its journey in packaging; ten years later it embarked on its aerosol contract manufacturing and filling activities. In 1993 Colep invested in a former SC Johnson plant in Spain, followed a few years later by the acquisition of CENSA, a tinplate packaging producer in Navarra, the second major step for Colep in Spain. Today, Colep is the leader in the Iberian market for tinplate general line packaging. n Philippe Combette is appointed CEO of Safic-Alcan. In this position, he succeeds to Martial Lecat who remains CEO of Safinca, the holding of the Group, while continuing to head up the mergers and acquisitions of Safic-Alcan. Jean-Michel Guyon is named General Manager while holding his current responsibilities as CFO. This Management reorganisation was needed following the strong organic and acquisition growth that allowed Safic-Alcan to grab important market shares in Central and Eastern Europe and to establish in the United States in 2015. Moreover, the Company strengthened its leadership position as the European leader for the rubber industry whilst pursuing its diversification strategy initiated early 2000s mainly in the businesses of plastics, coatings and adhesives, cosmetics and pharmacy. Gattefossé appoints Azelis as distributor for Personal Care range in Turkey Gattefossé has appointed Azelis as their new distributor for Personal Care in Turkey, effective 1st January 2016. Azelis has a longstanding relationship with Gattefossé for both Personal Care and Pharmaceuticals, supported by ingredients and formulation solutions for the health and beauty industry. They lead the way in identifying, developing and producing a range of specialty actives and functional ingredients like emulsifiers and emollients with outstanding sensorial benefits for the personal care industry. n joint formulation and development work. Thanks to this strong partnership, our mandate has now been extended from Russia, Poland, CEE and Balkans, to include Turkey for Personal Care. This relationship will be managed by the Azelis Turkey commercial 3-2016 Moreover, the LBO of January 2015 allowed the Management and the employees to take majority stakes of the Company supported by minority financial shareholders 6 EURO COSMETICS Philippe Combette, General Manager of Safic-Alcan with long-term view: Euromezzanine, Sagard and Société Générale. Prior to his new appointment, Philippe Combette was General Manager of Safic-Alcan and Member of the Board since 2006. He was in charge of all business activities and operations for the Performance Products Division worldwide. Jean-Michel Guyon was Chief Financial Officer and Member of the Board of Safic-Alcan since 2007. Previous experiences include PWC and Renault, as financial controller, Financial and Administrative Manager at Franciaflex and CFO at Micel, an electronic isolating product and composites distributor. Martial Lecat joined Safic-Alcan in 1988 as Commercial and Development Director until 1997 then as Director of the Specialty Chemicals Department and Member of the Board of Directors from 1997 until 2005. n NEW INGREDIENTS geeignet für den Einsatz in Make-ups und Sonnencremes, in Salben zur Verhinderung von Windeldermatitis, in Handcremes und im Lippenbalsam. Außerdem spendet GPS-S der Haut Feuchtigkeit, indem es den Wasserverlust auf der Hautoberfläche reduziert und stark hygroskopisch wirkt. Des Weiteren wird GPS-S für Haaranwendungen empfohlen, da es den Haaren Feuchtigkeit spendet, schuppiges und brüchiges Haar glättet und dafür sorgt, dass Haarfarben länger halten. Schutz für die Haut GPS-S GPS-S ist eine innovative Produktentwicklung des französischen Unternehmens Laboratoires Innovi, das langjährige Erfahrung in der Hautforschung hat. Dieses patentierte Produkt besitzt eine sehr starke Affinität zur lipidhaltigen Intrazellularsubstanz der Hornschicht, dem sogenannten „Zement“. Es stärkt somit den Barriereeffekt der Haut, verringert das Eindringen unerwünschter Substanzen in tiefere Hautschichten, schützt vor Umwelteinflüssen und sorgt für die langanhaltende Wirkung eines Wirkstoffs auf der Hautoberfläche. Aus diesem Grund ist GPS-S besonders 3-2016 43 EURO COSMETICS Haben wir Ihr Interesse geweckt? Gerne erhalten Sie auf Anfrage mehr Information zu GPS-S. Kontakt: [email protected] n PACKAGING & MACHINES Located in Debrecen, Hungary, Tu-Plast has been part of the Switzerland-based Hoffmann Neopac group for ten years. Neopac in Oberdiessbach primarily produces specialized Polyfoil® tubes which offer highest-level protection and are available with a range of applicators. In Debrecen, Tu-Plast produces mostly PE and Coex tubes for the cosmetics market. Together the companies offer an attractive range of products and innovations for cosmetics customers. Sales organization standardized Group management decided to restructure the sales organization, thereby pooling market expertise and resources in the area of cosmetics sales. The restructured organization is being led by Michael Aringhoff, a manager with extensive market knowledge. He has been working at Hoffmann Neopac since 2010 and has considerable experience as a key account manager and as head of sales support. Attila Békési, previously commercial director at Tu-Plast Ltd., will now hold that position for the entire group. Monika Rüegg is now leading strategic market projects. www.neopac.com n Qosmedix Announces New Metal Sharpeners for Lip and Eye Pencils Qosmedix is pleased to announce the addition of two metal sharpeners for eye and lip pencils. The aluminum alloy frame Qosmedix is pleased to announce the addition of two metal sharpeners for eye and lip pencils. The aluminum alloy frame can be easily cleaned while the stainless steel blades allow for precise sharpening. The single hole sharpener (Part# 50130) has an 8mm opening along with textured sides to ensure a comfortable grip. The dual hole sharpener (Part# 50131) has both an 8mm and an 11mm opening to fit various pencil sizes. For hygienic purposes, each sharpener is individually wrapped and packaged 6 pieces per box. Wingman chooses M&H to package its new range of Shower Gels www.qosmedix.com Wingman, the iconic male toiletries brand, has adopted the new foil wrapped tubes from M&H Plastics, part of the RPC Group of companies, to present its latest range of shower gels. Stu Jolley, (Founder) of Wingman wanted to create a striking package to reflect their approach and encourage men to engage with the brand. Using the metallic finish coupled with the hard- edged graphics and bold typography certainly achieves this effect. n RPC Closure is an illicit luxury RPC beauté has developed a customdesigned high quality closure for Jimmy Choo Illicit eau de parfum. Launched in September 2015, Illicit is the third feminine fragrance created by Jimmy Choo and the first to include a closure from RPC beauté. Featuring a cap and neck collar injection moulded in ABS, the closure has been designed for the three bottle sizes – 40, 60 and 100ml – in the range. The simplicity of the cube-shaped cap offers an effective contrast to the intricate art deco silhouette design of the bottle to establish a distinctive and individual appearance that reflects the premium image of the perfume. To further enhance the feeling of luxury for the end consumer, the cap and collar are electroplated with a metallic white gold finish, while the cap is weighted with injected zamak. Unusually for this category, the British made product donates a proportion of its sale price to charity: in this case, Help for Heroes. Jolley is foursquare behind this idea having seen the good work that the charity does. The identity with the brand could not be more appropriate as well. Jolley has built the business on credibility and innovation but the emphasis is on helping men look, feel and be better through high quality products that resonate with their lifestyle and needs. “We are a motivational brand, challenging the norms and enabling men to adopt a regime that is specifically for them.” This latest collaboration with Interparfums underlines RPC beauté’s longstanding reputation for the design and manufacture of luxury fragrance components and its advanced in-house manufacturing and decoration facilities. The four parts that make up the solution for Illicit are all assembled automatically. On working with M&H, Jolley says, “I wanted to work with a reliable company that really know what it is about. M&H gave me that. In the tradition of the Wingman that always “has your back covered” M&H were able to provide that support and reliability.” www.rpc-beaute.com www.mhplastics.com 3-2016 50 n EURO COSMETICS n EXHIBITION/CONGRESS/WORKSHOP in-cosmetics announces wide-ranging 2016 educational program line-up Offering visitors valuable access to market intelligence, while discussing some of the most pertinent issues affecting the sector, three days of workshops, seminars and presentations will provide key information, enabling businesses to plan their long term future. Active Concepts, Sino Lion, Expertox and Dr. Straetmans will look into advancements in preservation. Later that day Theresa Callaghan PhD and Alain Khaiat will delve into claim development and substantiation, with the latter then moving on to host a workshop on innovation in pigmentation on the final day of the event. 11 specialist paid-for Workshops will run during the event. Covering a wide range of subjects, the programme will address crucial challenges personal care professionals are facing today. Regulatory compliance, the claims substantiation process, the evolution in skincare and legislation in cosmetic ingredients are just some of the topics that will be covered. The third and final day will bring a further three workshops. Dr. Alain Khaiat of Seers Consulting will moderate one of the morning sessions, where delegates will learn about the latest innovations in pigmentation. The session will feature presenters including Dr. Steven THNG Tien Guan of Singapore National Skin Centre, Samuel Guenin of BioAlternatives, John Ademola of Biometrix and Liki von Oppen Bezalel, who will cover technologies, treatment and regulatory aspects in the category. On the opening day of in-cosmetics, skin care expert Dr. Nava Dayan will lead two workshops at in-cosmetics – the first focusing on utilising omics, followed by a session on the skin microbiome. Designed for specialists, from R&D scientists to toxicology experts, she will be joined by a number of leading experts. Dr. Randy Wickett from the University of Cincinnati, Dr. Alain Deguercy of BIOalternatives, Dr. Georgios Stamatas from Johnson & Johnson, Dr. Muriel Cario-André and Dr. Miriam Oron from AHAVA-Dead Sea Laboratories, will highlight the latest techniques and technologies to study biomarkers during the first session. Also taking place in the educational programme are 22 free-toattend Marketing Trends presentations. With the US market’s dominance being challenged by the East, on 12 April, Nikola Matic from Kline & Company will host a presentation on the ‘Challenges and opportunities in the U.S. personal care ingredients market’. A must-attend session for those looking to learn more about the largest cosmetic market in the world, this will look at the trends that are causing it to evolve, such as consumer awareness of potentially harmful ingredients. Dayan’s second session will provide vital information on the skin microbiome, including its mapping, nature and diversity. The speakers in this workshop will be Dr. Joachim Fluhr of Charité Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Gordon James from Unilever UK, Dr. Audrey Gueniche and Richard Martin from L’Oreal. Another eagerly anticipated session will follow on 13 April, day two of the show, with Oru Mohiuddin of Euromonitor offering insight into the trends affecting multicultural beauty. Meanwhile, during a two-part session on day one, Dr. Annelie Struessmann and Steven L. Hanft, both of CONUSBAT, will lead a session on ‘Worldwide Legislation on Cosmetics Ingredients Used in Consumer Products’. During the morning, speakers will focus on the Americas and Europe. Neliza Junque of the Regulatory Affairs Consultancy, Ellen Pfrommer of BASF, Erin Briscoe from CONUSBAT Regulatory and Dr. Oliver Licht from Fraunhofer will offer unique insights into the Trans-Atlantic Trade and Investment Partnership and other key EU regulations. Lucille Gauthier, Senior Designer at Peclers, will offer thoughts on what will be expected of beauty products in winter 2018. Meanwhile, Stirling Murray of The Red Tree will discuss whether mergers and acquisitions are a trend shaping the future. Additionally, a special roundtable discussion will run to debate the best way to launch green products and visitors will be able to find out about the latest green, natural and organic global trends. During the second session CONUSBAT speakers will be joined by Dr. Hans-Christian Stolzenberg of the German Federal Environment Agency, Dr. Bhavika Patel, Dr. Gerald Renner of Cosmetics Europe, as well as Erin Briscoe and Neliza Junque from the previous workshop. The presenters will focus their attention on addressing the fundamental changes in regulations for cosmetics and ingredients in China. There will also be more than 80 hours of Innovation Seminars featuring presentations from suppliers of the latest products, ingredients and technologies. Lipotec, Cargill, Gattefossé, SILAB, AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry LLC and Mibelle Biochemistry are just some of the companies that will be present. n For more details on the educational programme, and to see full presentation schedules: http://www.in-cosmetics.com/en/Education/ Additionally, on day two, presentations from Coty, Croda and BASF will highlight what’s new in the sun care sector, while 3-2016 54 EURO COSMETICS DISCOVER THE WORLD OF BEAUTY Log in · Discover · Learn more Brand new international articles and much more Print & Online Ask for a sample copy h unic us at Visit ess in M Busin 1, 2015 etic -1 Cosm June 10 oth D 18 Bo 3, Hall 6 7/8 English/German 1955 2015 OF PASSION English/German Contents: 5 Editorial 5 Names & News 6 Names & News 6 Interview A conversation with Nilesh Shah, 8 Global R&D Director of Dow Home, Institutional and Personal Care Solutions, about new effective anti-aging technologies One ingredient that solves all the eye contour concerns Technical Articles 13 Use of Plant and Human Stem Cell Extracts in Cosmeceutical Anti-Aging Products and Vibrant Hair Styles By Yuliya Berezkin and Dr. Yash Kamath Specialty Silicones Provide Long-Lasting 26 Color Cosmetics: Their Anti-Aging Efficacy, L I N K T O I N N O V A T I O N S I N C E 1 9 5 5 Rossow - Headquarters, FRANCE - Tel: +33 (0)1 41 21 87 87 - [email protected] - www.rossow.fr Rossow USA - New Jersey, USA - Toll free: +1 (855) 776-7769 - [email protected] - www.rossow-usa.com 33 Issues, Opportunities and Innovation By Jeannette Graf, M.D. Trends & Markets Trends in ethnic cosmetics: 34 36 targeting the needs of a growth demographic By Imogen Matthews 35 New Ingredients New Products By Sara Mason New Ingredients 38 New Products 40 Formulations 30 Color and Unique Sensory Experience By Marc Eeman et al. 30 By Imogen Matthews Sara Speaks – The Promise of Stem Cells for Skin & Hair Rejuvenation 22 Film Formers for Creating Long Lasting European Business Development Manager Cosmetics, Brenntag Holding GmbH, about INNOVI’s new GPS-S (Guiding Performance System - Surface) Supported by 60 years of experience, ŽƵƌĐŽŵƉĂŶLJ͛ƐƌŝĐŚŬŶŽǁůĞĚŐĞĂŶĚƉƌŽƐƉĞĐƟǀĞǀŝƐŝŽŶĐĂŶƉƌŽǀŝĚĞLJŽƵǁŝƚŚ the resources to formulate your future. 16 By Howard Epstein, Ph. D. – Part 2 Unique Multifunctional Polyurethane By Jeannette Jacknin, MD Trends & Markets Skin ageing: the evolution of the anti-ageing trend The Significance of Homeostasis on Skin Aging 19 22 By Shyam Gupta, PhD News & Talk A conversation with Dr. Francois Bouton, 11 Cosmetics Application Technology, Worlée Cosmetics By Alicia Gimenez et al. Cosmetics Contract Manufacturing: A Bird's Eye View A conversation with Director of Development/ A cosmetic approach against cellular ageing processes By Angela Kleiner EXPERIENCE AT YOUR SERVICE Interview Florian Preuße, Dipl. Ing. (FH), 10 Senior Director of Customer Marketing, MeadWestvaco (MWV) Technical Articles When skin is getting on in years Specia Contents: Editorial A conversation with Tracy Doherty, 20 Volume No. RAW MATERIAL GUIDE 2015 41 Packaging & Machines 43 Events Beyond Beauty Paris Cosmetics Packaging 46 46 Advertiser’s Index 47 Market-Place 48 37 39 Formulations 42 Packaging & Machines 44 Events CosmeticBusiness in Munich in-cosmetics Brazil in-cosmetics Korea 45 45 46 Advertiser’s Index 47 Market-Place 48 Event Calendar 51 Event Calendar 51 Impressum 47 Impressum 47 June 2015 23. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 23 July/August 2015 23. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 23 INTER-EURO MEDIEN GMBH Euro Cosmetics P.O.B. 440255 · D-80751 München/Germany Phone: +49 (0) 89 / 36 03 74 27 · Fax: +49 (0) 89 / 32 66 75 53 [email protected] www.eurocosmetics.de BRODATECH l