Contents - Alpine Journal

Contents
EVEREST FROM THE NORTH
Everest 1935: The Forgotten Adventure
Everest Calling
Climbing the North Ridge of Everest
The Height of Mount Everest
Climbing in the Killing Fields
Charles Warren
Dawson Stelfox
Jonathan Tinker
Michael Ward
JefJLong
3
15
25
30
34
EXPEDITIONS
Against the Odds
Hammering the Anvil
Voyage to the Goddess
A Truly Joint Venture
Manirang, 6593m
The North Side of K2
Antarctica: Voyage of the Pelagic
Hills, Horses and Hunger
Crab Crawl on the Bezingi Wall
Jonathan Pratt
Paul Pritchard
Julie-Ann Clyma
Chris Bonington
Paul Nunn
AlanHinkes
Julian Freeman-Attwood
Marian Elmes
Jose Luis Bermudez
85
Hamish M Brown
Michael Peyron
Paul Clarke
96
lOO
John Temple
105
Paul Clarke
Graeme Watson
113
39
47
52
57
65
71
75
82
AFRICA'S MOUNTAINS
The Western Atlas
Middle Atlas Berber Poetry
Mount Kenya's Diamond Couloir
Ancient and Modern: Some East African
Mountain Myths
Mountain National Park Management
in East Africa
Tanzania's Other Mountains
93
117
GRANITE ISLAND
JGRHarding
GeorgeBand
Corsican Retrospective
TPree Climbs in Corsica
v
125
131
vi
CONTENTS
ABOVE AND BELOW THE SNOW-LINE
The Snow Leopard
Pyrenees 3000
Kinabalu: Summit of Borneo
An Irian Jayan Adventure
The Cordillera de Potosi, Bolivia
Terry Gifford
Kev Reynolds
RobertNew
Jules Stewart
Evelio Echevarria
137
139
145
156
162
SKI MOUNTAINEERING
The Transpamirs Ski Expedition
Almost a Russian Haute Route
Probing the Pourquoi-Pas
Vadim Vasi/jev
David Hamilton
Jim Gregson
175
178
183
NEW DIRECTIONS
Protect and Survive
Climbing in the Ecrins
The Alpinists
EdDouglas
Duncan Tunstall
Terry GijJord
195
199
204
THE END OF 'THE GOLDEN AGE'
The Eagle's Nest: a Victorian mountaineer
and his summer home in the Alps
Peter Berg
The Matterhorn Lithographs of 1865. Gustave Dore
and his links with Edward Whymper
Alan Lyal/
Preparations for Everest:
Cho Oyu, London and Zermatt 1952
Michael Ward
One Hundred Years Ago
CA Russel/
233
AREA NOTES
241
Compiled by Roy Ruddle
207
215
222
Contributions from:
Jose Luis BermUdez, H Adams Carter, Chris Cheeseman, Lindsay Griffin, Tony
Howard, Harish Kapadia, Paul Knott, Paul Nunn, J6zef Nyka, Bill O'Connor and
Simon Richardson.
CONTENTS
Mount Everest Foundation:
Expedition Reports 1994
Book Reviews
In Memoriam
Alpine Club Notes
Contributors
Index
Notes for Contributors
Summarised by Bill Ruthven
Compiled by GeoJfrey Templeman
Compiled by GeoJfrey Templeman
vii
289
297
325
346
360
365
372
MAPS AND DIAGRAMS
Maps 2-5,9-10,13,14 compiled and drawn byTed Hatch
Maps and Diagrams
1
Everest and 'Peak XIII' from Bangura Trig. station
2
The 1993 K2 West Ridge Expedition*
3
Baffin Island and the Auyuittuq National Park
4
Indian British Kinnaur Expedition 1994
5
Antarctica: Voyage of the Pelagic
6
Central Caucasus: Bezingi Basin
7
Mountains of Northern and Southern Tanzania
8
The Pyrenees, showing groups of 3000m peaks
9
Mount Kinaba1u (4101m) and Low's Gully
10
Irian Jaya and Mount Trikora, c4800m
11
The direct route on Mount Trikora
12
The Cordillera de Potosi, Bolivia
13
The Pamirs: the first unsupported crossing, SE to NW;
from Murgab to Daraut-Kurgan (480km)
14
Greenland: the Pourquoi-pas Glacier
15
The Everest Region, 1952
(From the Geographical Journal 119, 1953)
© 1995 by the Alpine Club
*
The diagram of K2 is based on a drawing by Jim Curran, by perm~ssion.
31
42
49
64
77
87
119
138
151
159
161
164
177
184
224
/
J •
Illustrations
Plate
1.
Baffin Island: the West Face of Mount Asgard. (Paul Pritchard)
Frontispiece
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
IS.
16.
Appearing between pages 20 and 21
The North Ridge of Everest: Dawson Stelfox traversing towards the
Second Step before making the first British/Irish ascent from the north
on 27 May 1993. (FrankNugent)
The crest of the North Ridge of Everest between the First and Second
Steps. (Dawson Stelfox)
The final few metres to the Summit. (John Tinker)
Appearing between pages 52 and 53
Kharta Changri, 7056m. The first ascent was made by Charles Warren
and Edwin Kempson during the 1935 Everest Reconnaissance
Expedition. (Charles Warren)
Everest from Base Camp. The North Ridge is the left skyline.
(Dawson Stelfox)
The final slopes of the North Col, with the North Ridge behind.
(Dawson Stelfox)
The Chinese ladder on the Second Step. (John Tinker)
The Second Step and Summit catch the morning sun.
(John Tinker)
The Summit of Everest looking Sw, 27 May 1993. An oxygen bottle
and prayer flags can be seen about 12ft from the surface on the
NE side of the mountain. (Dawson Stelfox)
The Summit of Everest looking NE, 27 May 1993. In the foreground is a two-prism assembly left by Todd Burleson on 15 May
1992 at the request of Bradford Washburn. Behind it is some equipment left by an Italian survey team on 30 September 1992.
(Dawson Stelfox)
N anda Devi East seen from the Panchu glacier. The South Ridge
rises steeply on the left-hand skyline. (JuNe-Ann Clyma)
Traversing a gendarme on the South Ridge of Nanda Devi East.
The South Ridge of N anda Devi is in the background. (Roger Payne)
Julie-Ann Clyma approaching the summit of Nanda Devi East at
4.30pm, 6 October 1994, having made the first female and first
alpine-style ascent. Nanda Kot in the background. (Roger Payne)
The Indian British Kinnaur Expedition 1994. The N face of Rangrik
Rang, 6553m, seen from Camp 1. The first ascent was made on 20
June by the NE ridge (left skyline). (Harish Kapadia)
Manirang, 6593m, seen from Mane Village, Spiti. (Harish Kapadia)
ix
ILL USTRATIONS
x
Appearing between pages 84 and 85
17. The 1993 K2 West Ridge Expedition. The West Face of K2.
(Jonathan Wakefielc!)
18. Jonathan Pratt and Dan Mazur between Camps 2 and 3 (at about
6700m). (Jonathan Wakefielc!)
19. Camp 2, at 6600m, after a heavy snowfall. (Jonathan Wakefielc!)
20. Jonathan Pratt (L) and Andy Collins setting up Camp 3 at 7100m.
(DanMazur)
21. Jonathan Pratt digging a platform for Camp 5 at 8100m.
(Jonathan Wakefielc!)
22. The Indian British Kinnaur Expedition. Advanced Base Camp
below Rangrik Rang, 6553m. (Chris Bonington)
23. The climbing team: Jim Lowther, Muslim Contractor, Jim Curran,
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
Chris Bonington, Harish Kapadia, Vijay Kothari, Paul Nunn,
Graham Little, Kaivan Mistry, Joginder Singh Gulia (liaison
officer), Jim Fotheringham, Divyesh Muni. (Chris Bonington)
Rangrik Rang, 6553m. Jim Forheringham on the fixed ropes
between Camps 1 and 2. (Chris Bonington)
Reo Pargial (Purgyil), 6816m, the southern of the Pargials climbed
in 1991. The highest peak of Himachal Pradesh, it rises above the
Sutlej river at Shipkila. (Paul Nunn)
Paul Nunn on the summit of Manirang, 6593m. (Paul Nunn)
The North Ridge of K2: seracs above the bergschrund. (Alan Hinkes)
Digging out a shelf for Camp 1 at 6000m. The tent was later
flattened by an avalanche. (Alan Hinkes)
At 6800m - the view from Camp 2 towards China, the K2 glacier
below. (Alan Hinkes)
At 8 lOOm -looking back towards Camp 4 and a 3000m drop below
the tent to the K2 glacier. (Alan Hinkes)
K2, the North Ridge. (Alan Hinkes)
Crossing the raging Shaksgam on the trek out. (Alan Hinkes)
Appearing between pages 116 and 117
33. The Central Caucasus: looking back along part of the Bezingi Wall.
(Jose Luis BermUdez)
34. Neil Wilson somewhere among the gendarmes between Shkhara
35.
West and Jangi-Tau East. (Jose Luis Bermitdez)
The Corsican High Route: David Williams on Serra Tenda.
(John Harding)
36. Stephen Baker on Serra Tenda, Monte d'Oro behind. (John Harding)
37. The Corsican High Route: Patrick Fagan and Rodney Franklin
38.
ascending Monte Rotondo, 2622m. (John Harding)
Paglia Orba, 2525m, from the ridge of Monte Cinto, 2706m.
(John Harding)
39. Contorted rock on the SE ridge of Paglia Orba. (George Banc!)
ILLUSTRATIONS
xi
40. The crenate ridge of Capo Tafonato. (George Bancf)
41. tordillera de PotoS!, Bolivia. The South Face of Cerro Cari Cari,
5040m, highest peak in the northern half of the Cordillera.
(Evelio Echevarria)
42. Cordillera de PotoS!, Bolivia. Peaks of the Quimsa Condoriri group,
SW side, with Cerro Maucatambo, 4940m. (Evelio Echevarria)
43. One of the small Samani lakes and the SW side of Cerro Mina
Illimani, 5030m, in the background. (Evelio Echevarria)
44. Henry Hoek, 1878-1951, was the first and main explorer of the
Cordillera de Potosi. (Reproduced by courtesy of Henry Hoek's stepson
Peter Walluf of Frankfurt-am-Main)
45. Mount Trakora, c4800, in Irian Jaya: Cesar Perez de Tudela on the
summit pyramid. (Jutes Stewart)
46. Jules Stewart with Jayawijaya range in the background. (lutes Stewart)
Appearing between pages 148 and 149
47. North Face of the Vignemale, 3298m, seen from above the Refuge
48.
des Oulettes. (Kev Reynolds)
The Besiberri peaks, seen to the west of Port de Colomers.
(Kev Reynolds)
49. Antarctica: the Towers of Cape Renard. (Julian Freeman-Attwood)
50. Julian Freeman-Attwood on Pelagic with the Towers of Cape Renard
beyond. (Matt Dickinson)
51. Skip Novak and Frank McDermot on the summit ridge of Mt
Williams, c4970ft, with the Anvers Island ice piedmont down left.
(Julian Freeman-Attwoocf)
52. Kilimanjaro from Amboseli National Park. (Paul Clarke)
53. Mount Meru, Tanzania: view of crater from northern rim showing
summit, 4566m, and subsidiary a~h cone. (Graeme Watson)
54. Tanzania: Kerimasi, 2614m, as seen from the summit of Lengai.
(Graeme Watson)
55. Mt Kinabalu, 4101m, Malaysia. Steps on the standard trail to the
summit. (Robert New)
56. Low's Gully which falls over 900m from the summit plateau of
Mt Kinabalu. (Robert New)
57. Young braets at 12,500ft. Kinabalu Park protects and preserves
the complete spread of plant life from lowland tropical forest
to the limit of plant growth on the summit. (Robert New)
58. Mt Kinabalu: Dewali Pinnacles at sunset seen from the West Gurkha
Hut. (Robert New)
59. West Gurkha Hut, 3840m, and Dewali Pinnacles. (Robert New)
Appearing between pages 180 and 181
60. The 1994 Anglo-Russian Expedition to the Tien Shan mountains of
Kyrgyzstan: nine virgin peaks were climbed between 4500 and
5000m in the Central Tien Shan range. (Marian Elmes) (p 82)
ILL USTRA TIONS
xii
61. The Transpamirs Ski Expedition: the Western Pshart river mouth.
(Vadim Vasiljev)
62.
63.
64.
65.
66.
67.
68.
69.
70.
71.
72.
73.
Sarez lake - 56 kilometres long. (Vadim Vasiljev)
The Khavraz-dara. (Vadim Vasiljev)
Approaching the Fedchenko glacier. (Vadim Vasiljev)
Central Caucasus Ski Traverse 1994: David Hamilton on the icefall
in the Dykh-Kotiu-Bugoisu glacier. (John Kentish)
Matthias Hammer and John Kentish at Camp 2 on the
Dykh-Kotiu-Bugoisu glacier. (David Hamilton)
The icefall in the Dykh-Kotiu-Bugoisu glacier. (David Hamilton)
Descending from the 3960m Dykhnainsh Pass. (David Hamilton)
Sir Alfred Wills at 'The Eagle's Nest' in the 1870s.
'The Eagle's Nest' as it is today. (Trevor Braham)
'The Eagle's Nest' in 1877.
Karabiner MC Greenland Expedition 1994. Descending from
P. 2100m (Peak 3) after making the first ascent. (Jim Gregson)
Looking NW over the Pourquoi-pas glacier. First ascents of six
summits along the ridge beyond the glacier were made by KMC
team members. (Jim Gregson)
Appearing between pages 340 and 341
74.
E A FitzGerald (R), C L Barrow and Mattias Zurbriggen near the
Hermitage, 1895. (Reproduced by courtesy of the Alexander Turnbull
Library, Wellington, New Zealand)
75.
76.
Weisshorn, with (L) the Schaligrat. (CA Russell)
Wastwater Hotel, Easter 1895. (Reproduced by courtesy of the Fell and
Rock Climbing Club of the English Lake District)
77.
22 (Ground Floor) and 23 Savile Row.
(Reproduced by courtesy of the Royal Commission on the Historical
Monuments ofEngland)
78. The Reading-room, 23 Savile Row.
(Hanslip Fletcher, Alpine Club Library Collection)
The Ascent of the Matterhorn, on July 14th 1865. Arrival at the
Summit. (Gustave Dore, Alpine Club Library Collection)
80. The Ascent of the Matterhorn, on July 14th 1865. The Fall.
79.
81.
(Gustave Dore, Alpine Club Library Collection)
David Cox (1913-1994) (John Cleare)
82. David Cox during the War, probably in the Lebanon, during his
Commando training period.
83. Eleanor Winthrop Young (1897-1994), in her 80s, at the foot of the
Jostedalsbreen in Norway.
84. Terris Moore (1908-1993) at 18,000ft on Mt McKinley in 1972.
(Bradford Washburn)