Drawers cabinetmaker’s workbench Add plenty of storage space

cabinetmaker’s
workbench
Drawers
Add plenty of storage space
with this easy-to-build, slip-in
drawer cabinet.
The workbench in ShopNotes No.
102 (page 24) offers a lot of storage space on the shelf underneath.
To make better use of that space
for storing smaller items, you can
build the drawer cabinet shown in
the photo above.
1
FIGURE
REAR RAIL
(#/4" x 3" - 35")
CENTER GUIDE
DRAWER CASE
The drawer cabinet consists of an
outer case that slips into the opening under the bench. You’re going
to build the case from the inside
out, starting with the drawer
frames. These frames connect the
DRAWER STOP
(#/4" x #/4" - 3")
C
STILE
H
(#/4" x 3" - 20!/2")
D
D
(#/4" x 1" - 25")
E
#8 x 1!/4" Fh
WOODSCREW
5&/8
#/4
ATTACH CASE BACK
WITH GLUE
AFTER DRAWERS ARE
FITTED AND STOPS
ARE INSTALLED
NOTE:
DADOES
AND
RABBETS
ARE !/4"
5&/8
DEEP
AND
SIZED TO
FIT FRAMES
A
CASE SIDE
(18#/8" x 25" - #/4" Ply.)
F
GUIDE BLOCK
(!/2" x #/4" - 3!/2")
EDGING
(#/4" x #/4" - 18#/8")
B
C
FRONT RAIL
G
CASE BACK
(#/4" x 3" - 35")
(18#/8" x 36" - #/4" ply.)
a.
#/4
FRONT
VIEW
WEB
FRAME
!/4
!/4
b.
TOP VIEW
c.
#8 x 1!/4" Fh
WOODSCREW
!/4
!/2
#8 x 1" Fh
WOODSCREW
ShopNotes No. 102
GUIDE
BLOCK
1
Page 1 of 3
SIDE
VIEW
STOP
!/4
REAR
RAIL
sides and form the openings for
the drawers. Figure 1 gives you a
starting point for the dimensions,
but you may need to make some
minor adjustments so the case fits
your workbench. I made my case
about 1⁄8" narrower and shorter
than the opening.
Frames. The two side stiles and
the center stile of each frame are
connected with front and back
rails. I used maple for all of the
frame components except for the
front rails. For these, I used Douglas fir to match the bench.
Front & Rear Rails. To start
on the frames, I cut the front and
rear rails to size. The length of
the rails and the 1⁄4"-deep dadoes
and rabbets in the case sides will
determine the final width of the
assembled cabinet. As I mentioned
earlier, size the rails so that the cabinet will slide easily into the workbench opening (right photo, next
page). To finish up the rails, cut a
centered groove along one edge
for the stub tenons on the stiles.
Short Stiles. The only thing
special about the side and center
stiles is the stub tenon on each end.
A dado blade makes quick work of
cutting all the tenons. At this point,
you can glue up the four frames
before adding the center guides.
©2008 August Home Publishing. All rights reserved.
Center Guides. After the glue
dries, you can add the center
drawer guides. They’re centered
and attached to the underside of the
top three frames with screws, as
shown in Figure 1.
Case Sides. With the frames
assembled, the case sides come
next. The sides have dadoes and
rabbets to accept the frames. But
before cutting these, I added hardwood trim along the front edge to
hide the plywood.
Assembly. At this point you’re
ready to assemble the sides and
frames. The key is to keep everything square while the glue dries.
I didn’t attach the back panel
until later. Leaving it off makes
it easier to add the drawer stops
after the drawers are in place.
perfect fit. The goal is to
end up with an even gap
at the top and sides of
the drawer front. Once
all of the basic joinery is
done, there are a couple
of things left to do.
Grooves & Notches.
Cutting a groove for
the plywood bottom
is pretty simple. Just
remember to cut the
groove on the inside face
of all the drawer parts.
And before you can
Sliding Case.
assemble the drawer,
The drawer case
you need to cut a notch
slips into the workbench
in the drawer back. Size
frame and is secured with screws.
the notch for a smooth,
sliding fit along the center drawer guide.
To size them, I fastened them with
Assembly. Finally, you can double-sided tape. I start out by
DRAWERS
assemble the drawers, making making them a little thick. This
The three large drawers are iden- sure they’re square. While the way, you can sand them down
tical in size and construction. The glue dries, you can cut the stiffen- later for a perfect fit of the drawer.
sides are joined to the front with a ers that are glued to the bottom. A
Hardware and Fitting. Addlocking rabbet joint and to the back little glue and a clamping caul are ing the drawer pulls now makes it
with a tongue and dado joint. Fig- all you need to attach it.
easier to fine-tune the drawers for
ure 2 gives you the details. You can
Guides Block. As shown in Fig- a smooth fit. I used a drilling jig to
cut these joints on the table saw. It ure 1, there are small guide blocks help locate all of the holes.
just takes a few test cuts to get a screwed to each side of the case.
Like I said, you may need to sand
or plane the guide blocks while fitting the drawers. And a little wax
on the frames and drawer parts
NOTE: CUT A CENTERED
NOTCH SLIGHTLY LARGER
goes a long way to help the large
THAN CENTER GUIDE
DRAWER BACK
drawers slide easily. Then you can
(#/4" x 5" - 32#/4")
K
permanently attach the blocks.
Now you can add the rear drawer
stops to position the drawer fronts
flush with the case. Finally, it’s
DRAWER BOTTOM
(23&/8" x 32!/2" - !/4" Ply.)
time to attach the case back with
KNOB
L
glue. After that, simply slide the
5
cabinet into the bench and fasten it
2!/4
in with screws. Then all you’re left
with is the task of filling the drawI
DRAWER FRONT
ers with your tools.
(#/4" x 5" - 34#/8")
2
J
DRAWER SIDE
DRAWER
BOTTOM
!/2
a.
#/8
1#/16
GUIDE
BLOCK
FRONT VIEW
ShopNotes No. 102
(!/4 " x 3" - 23#/8")
3
b.
!/4
STIFFENER
(#/4" x 5" - 25")
!/8
Page 2 of 3
DRAWER
BOTTOM
NOTE: DRAWER SHOWN
UPSIDE DOWN
#/8
DRAWER
SIDE
TOP VIEW
#/8
M
FIGURE
NOTE:
!/8
#/8
DRAWER
FRONT
CENTER AND
GLUE STIFFENER TO
DRAWER BOTTOM
©2008 August Home Publishing. All rights reserved.
cabinetmaker’s
workbench
Drawers
Materials & Hardware
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
183/8 x 25 - 3/4 Ply.
3/ x 3/ - 183/
4
4
8
3/ x 3 - 35
4
3/ x 3 - 201/
4
2
3/ x 1 - 25
4
1/ x 3/ - 31/
2
4
2
3
18 /8 x 36 - 3/4 Ply.
3/ x 3/ - 3
4
4
Case Sides (2)
Edging (2)
Front/Rear Rails (8)
Stiles (12)
Center Guides (3)
Guide Blocks (6)
Case Back (1)
Drawer Stops (3)
I
J
K
L
M
Drawer Fronts (3)
Drawer Sides (6)
Drawer Backs (3)
Drawer Bottoms (3)
Stiffeners (3)
3/ x 5 - 343/
4
8
3/ x 5 - 25
4
3/ x 5 - 323/
4
4
7
23 /8 x 321/2 - 1/4 Ply.
1/ x 3 - 233/
4
8
• (6) Drawer Pulls (Lee Valley 02W18.09)
Cutting Diagram
#/4" x 6!/2" - 72" DOUGLAS FIR (3.3 Bd. Ft.)
C
C
C
C
#/4" x 6!/2" - 72" MAPLE (3.3 Bd. Ft.)
C
C
C
C
#/4" x 6!/2" - 96" MAPLE (2 Boards @ 4.3 Bd. Ft. each)
D
D
D
D
D
D
M
#/4" x 6" - 72" DOUGLAS FIR (4.0 Bd. Ft.)
I
I
B
#/4" x 6" - 72" DOUGLAS FIR (4.0 Bd. Ft.)
H
E
I
F
F
M
#/4" x 6!/2" - 96" DOUGLAS FIR (3 Boards @ 4.3 Bd. Ft. each)
K
48" x 96" - !/4" PLYWOOD
L
J
J
48" x 96" - #/4" PLYWOOD
A
L
A
G
L
ShopNotes No. 102
Page 3 of 3
©2008 August Home Publishing. All rights reserved.