Aussie Soap Supplies® Be Inspired to Create! Eco Soya® PB-INSTRUCTIONS

Transcription

Aussie Soap Supplies® Be Inspired to Create! Eco Soya® PB-INSTRUCTIONS
Aussie Soap Supplies®
Be Inspired to Create!
Eco Soya® PB-INSTRUCTIONS
This document is the amalgamation of recommendations and information from the manufacturer of Eco
Soya PB and our experience of how to obtain the best results when working with this wax.
Fragrance and Scent
Most Bramble Berry fragrances work well in PB Soy Wax, (unless stated on the description
on the website), as do many Essential Oils. Note: The behaviour of all fragrances and
Essential Oils will vary. You may experience one that causes the liquid soy wax to go lump
or look curdled, so if this happens, reduce the scent, or try increasing the temperature of the
wax when you add the fragrance. There may be some trial and error required; the same
applies to Essential Oil usage.
The Recommended maximum scent load is approximately 12%. To minimize scent loss, add
scent prior to pouring but at a wax temperature no less than 57.2°C (135°F).
Accommodate for temperature drop due to the addition of the cooler scent when targeting the
pour temperature. Optimum hot scent throw is achieved.
How to work out what percentage to add
Remember, depending on the specific fragrance or essential oil, testing will be required to
achieve optimum amount. Here’s how to work out the percentage:
Weigh Soy Wax for the batch you are making (i.e. 500g) – enter 500 and the multiply sign (x)
Enter the starting point for the fragrance, i.e. 7%, so enter 7 and then hit the percentage
button (%) and then the = (equals) button. Voilà, the answer in grams (or ml) is on the screen
for you. Note: if you are making small amounts and don’t wish to weigh (as you should with
cosmetics) just consistently use ml or grams to replicate the formula.
So, 500g Soy Wax x 7 % = 35g/ml.
Don’t forget ALWAYS use glass or ceramic for measuring Fragrance and Essential Oils.
Moulds
Moulds should be clean and at ambient room temperature. Conditioning is recommended
with new moulds or moulds previously used with paraffin. This simply involves thoroughly
wiping the inside walls with warm soybean/vegetable oil. Stand the moulds on a newspaper
or old towel when pouring. Newspaper makes a good work surface covering and for an easy
clean up!
You can use your favourite moulds, silicone is very easy to unmould, though a little costly,
plastic work well, and you can also use skinny and regular aluminum drink cans, but take
care when cutting the top rim off and also when unmoulding as the edges can be very sharp.
Wicks
PB Soy Wax requires larger wicking than paraffin. Wicks such as paper cored, cotton cored
or metal cored should be avoided as they tend to cause sooting and carbon build-up. PB
tends to burn more down than out, creating a “Hurricane Candle” effect in pillar candles.
Scent, colour and candle configuration have a great impact on the best wick choice. Too
large of a wick may cause sooting, quick burn times and guttering (wax leaking through the
side of the candle).
The following table, listed in no particular order, suggests a starting point for the type and
size of wicks to begin testing with; note that adjustments may be needed. Keep wicks
trimmed to 0.6 cm (1/4 inch). If you experience poor flame quality or stability, try a different
type of wick. Test burning should be done after the candle has had a chance to set up and
cure for 48 hours after pouring.
We carry a small selection of wicks, but as there is no exact size that is right for all candles,
these are good to begin to learn your craft. We recommend testing before large scale
purchase and manufacture is undertaken. Test burning should be done after the candle has
had a chance to set up and cure for 48 hours after pouring
Candle
Votive Size
Pillar:
2-3 inch diameter
(5.1 cm-7.6 cm)
Initial Wick Suggestions to Begin Testing
Feel free to try other types and sizes of wicks as needed
CD: 4 or 5
Eco: 1
Flat Braid: 18
HTP: 52 or smaller
RRD: 29
Square Braid: #5/0
CD: 10 or 12
HTP: 104
Eco: 6
RRD: 37
Flat Braid: 24
Square Braid: #1/0
Eco: 14
RRD: 50
Flat Braid: 42 or
45
Square Braid: #3
or #4
Pillar:
3-4 inch diameter
(7.6-10.2 cm)
CD: 20
HTP: 104 or a little larger
Diameter:
4 inches and larger
(10.2 cm and larger)
Typically requires multiple wicking.
Try using 2 or 3 smaller wicks evenly spaced or in a triangular pattern.
Dyes
Most dyes (powder, liquid, chips, blocks, etc.) work with PB. To achieve better color depth,
use about 30% more dye. When using powder dyes, heat the wax to 87.8°C (190°F), add the
dye, and mix until dissolved. Powder dyes may also be dissolved in fragrances and then
added to the melted wax (be sure the dye has dissolved completely before
adding). *When using powder dyes dissolved in fragrance, liquid dyes, colour blocks, chips
or no dye, heat the was to 68.3°C (155°F).
We have experimented with many types of Mica and achieved really great results. You can
mix and match colours, the same as you would solvent based dyes. Great if you want nonfading, pigments that are much closer to natural and non harmful. You won’t get the mica
sparkle (unless you brush on the outside of the finished candle, but a great alternative to
solvent based colours!
Melting
When using dye, except for powdered or un-dyed PB, melt the wax to a minimum of 68.3°C
(155°F) under gentle agitation to promote even heating and thorough mixing. For powder
dyes, heat the wax to 87.8°C (190°F) to ensure the dye dissolves. Temporary high
temperatures such as 87.8°C (190°F) have no adverse effect if cooled quickly. Higher
temperatures, in excess of 87.8°C (190°F), may cause the wax to discolour. Allow the wax to
cool to the desired pour temperature.
Pouring
It is typical for wax to solidify at the beginning of the pour during its first contact with the
mould. PB should have a pour temperature high enough so that when the mould is full, the
initial solidified wax has remelted. The temperature should not be so high that the liquid wax
sits more than 30 minutes before starting to solidify.
Pour temperatures will vary according to mould type and size, fragrance and dye, and the
effects preferred. PB does not normally produce static electricity or bubbles when poured,
tapping of the moulds is not necessary.
There is a difference in cooling rates for different mould configurations. Cooling too quickly or
too slowly can cause cracking and/or frosting. If difficulties are experienced with your pour
temperatures, try a lower or higher temperature in increments of 6°C (10°F).
PB Double-Pour: When using Eco Soya® PB two pours are required with candles such as
7.6 cm & 10.2 cm (3 & 4 inch) diameter pillars, and even smaller diameters if you pour very
hot. The first pour is done at 68.3°C (155°F) by filling the mould to the top and allowing the
candle to set up with a warm but congealed soft centre. If the top of the mould (bottom of the
candle) has "skinned" over and left a void inside, poke two holes into the candle near the
wick. The second pour is done at 60.0°C (140°F) while the candle centre is still warm but
congealed.
Do not pour past the solidified wax of the first pour; in essence "fill" the first pour.
Making Votives with PB: The first pour is done at 68.3°C (155°F) by filling the mould within
0.3 cm (1/8 inch) from the top. Allow the votive to cool until it is still warm with a congealed
centre that has no liquid. If the top of the candle has "skinned" over, poke two holes near the
wick. Pour a second time at 60.0°C (140°F) to completely fill the votive mould.
Pour temperatures should be checked and confirmed according to seasonal changes.
Candle Cooling and Mould Release
Cool undisturbed candles at an ambient temperature of 21.1°C (70°F). The moulds should
be at least 1.3 cm (1/2 inch) apart to allow air circulation for even cooling.
Eco Soya® PB is self-releasing. Slower cooling will encourage the candle to adhere to the
mould causing it not to release, while quicker cooling will encourage pull away and release.
So if making your pillars during hot weather, the fridge may assist. PB is designed to shrink
back from the mould for easier release and should be encouraged to do so. Silicone mould
release spray may be used in the unusual event of poor release. So this is an important point
to remember in the warmer states of Australia.
Candles should be allowed to sit undisturbed for 48 hours before test burning.
Test Burning
Test burn the candle for burn pool diameter and quality after it has setup (cured or dried) for a
minimum of 48 hours. Every combination of wax, dye, fragrance, and wick should be tested
for burn quality.
Storage
PB flakes should be stored in a cool dry location away from direct heat, sunlight and moisture
in the original sealed packaging. Temporary extremes in temperatures, hot or cold, have no
adverse effect. PB may be used frozen, and, if partially melted, allowed to cool and resolidify before use.
General Trouble Shooting
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Test for one variable at a time when trouble shooting to isolate the cause. Variables
include (but are not limited to): the mould, wax, dye, fragrance, wick, pour
temperature, and environmental conditions such as, cooling temperature, along with
manufacturing conditions.
First, make a candle in the mould with only the wick (no dye or fragrance). If it looks
good then the wax is performing normally.
Then, one at a time, change a variable. Try adding the dye without fragrance to the
mould, wax and wick. If it looks good and burns well the dye is compatible with the
wax.
Try adding the fragrance without dye to the mould, wax and wick. If it looks good and
burns well the fragrance is compatible with the wax.
Try the dye and fragrance together with the mould, wax and wick. If it looks good and
burns well the dye/fragrance combination is compatible with the wax.
If you are experiencing burn problems, try a different type or size of wick.
Other variables to try are different pouring and cooling temperatures and even
different mould material types.
Ensure all equipment and materials are contaminant free.
Shelf Life
When stored properly, as per instructions, PB has a minimum shelf life of 3 years.
Q & A from the manufacturer’s Website:
Can very large moulded candles (such as a 12” X 12” pillar) be made with Eco Soya®
PB?
That is one huge candle! Yes, it can be done. Pour as you normally would for a pillar candle.
You may have to do more than two pours due to the size of your candle. Wicking type is the
same. Practice with smaller candles and find a wick that you like the burn, flame size and
quality. Then measure the diameter of the burn pool for that wick. Overlap the burn pool
diameters a bit to get even burning when you layout the wick pattern. Leave about a half-inch
wall on the candle as it burns down.
Do votives made with Eco Soya® PB requires two pours?
Generally no. Sometimes the fragrance, dye and technique combination do cause excess
shrinkage resulting in the need for two pours. Make the first pour at 155°F by filling the mould
to within 1/8 inch from the top. Allow the candle to cool until it has a congealed centre with no
liquid. If the top of the candle has "skinned" over, poke two holes into the candle near the
wick and pour a second time at 145°F to completely fill the votive mould.
How can I prevent pillars from cracking when they are halfway burnt?
Be sure your wick is appropriate for the candle. The wick should leave a thin wall as it burns
down without guttering (causing a hole in the wall that allows the wax to spill out). Thick walls
tend to crack. If the wick is not the problem, try any or all of the following: * Change your type
of fragrance * Add a few per cent soybean oil or castor oil * Change your pour temperature
either up or down by 10 to 30 degrees * As a last resort, add about 10% to 20% beeswax
How do I complete two pours for my pillars?
Pour the first at 155°F by filling the mold to the top and allowing the candle to cool until it's still
warm with a congealed centre that has no liquid. If the top of the mold (bottom of the candle)
has "skinned" over and left a void inside, poke two holes into the candle near the wick and
pour a second time at 145°F. Do not pour past the solidified wax of the first pour; you are
"filling" the first pour. Cool at room temperature.
How do I prevent candles from sticking to the molds?
Try any or all of the following: * Candle release spray * A mold made of a different material *
Choose a different fragrance and dye * Add a few per cent Triple Pressed Palm Stearic Acid *
Increase your pour temperature * Decrease your cooling temperature
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No part of these instructions may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission.