Document 6495558

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easy-to-use
4 sections
How to Use This Book
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
Your planning tool kit
1 Sights
r Beaches
2 Activities
C Courses
T Tours
4 Sleeping
5 Eating
6 Drinking
3 Entertainment
7 Shopping
&
z Festivals
Events
8 & Transport
Photos & suggestions to
help you create the perfect
trip.
Watarrka
Alice
(Kings Canyon) •
#
Springs
National Park
É
É
NORTHERN
TERRITORY
QUEENSLAND
INERARIES
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T
É
É
INERARIES
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T
WESTERN
AUSTRALIA
Coober
# Pedy
•
Flinders Ranges
National Park
É
SOUTH
AUSTRALIA
÷
#
#
Woomera •
É
É
É
NEW
SOUTH
WALES
# Barossa
Clare Valley •
•
# Valley
#
Adelaide •
Wine Region
•
# McLaren Vale
Kangaroo •
#
÷
#
Island Coorong
Coonawarra
National Park
Wine Region VICTORIA
É
ACT
•
#
#
Great Ocean •
Road
4
S
WEEK
É
1
÷
#
©
Kata
Tjuta •
#•
#
Uluru
29
STEVE PARISH / CORBISH
28
Adelaide to Alice Springs
Top: Flinders Ranges
National Park (p131)
Bottom: Outdoor dining,
Rundle St, Adelaide
KYLIE MCLAUGHLIN
Great Ocean Road conveniently
to SA from Victoria, super-scenic
here explore the dunes
If you’re hoofing it over
Wine Region (p104). From
Vale
spits you out near the CoonawarraPark (p99), sip your way through McLaren
or roll
National
Island (p90) for a few days,
and lagoons of Coorong
either hop over to Kangaroo Central Market for lunch, and a
to
Wine Region (p82), then
(p54). Don’t miss a trip
Art Galley
into festival-frenzied Adelaide
cool off inside the estimable
on Rundle St. If it’s hot,
Glenelg.
night eating and drinking
for a beachy swim at palindromic
(p112;
of SA, or hop on the tram
old-school Barossa Valley
north of Adelaide is the
its worldMore wine! About an hour
Clare Valley (p117) with
hours north is the boutiquey
big reds); and about two
towns.
B&Bs and old stone mining
the
class riesling, cottagey
Park (p131) jags up from
Flinders Ranges National culture, the Flinders – the
Continuing north, raggedy
mirage. Rich in indigenous
etch itself into your memory.
semi-desert like a rust-coloured
(Wilpena Pound) – will
Ikara
Woomera
amazing
the
is
heart of which
spooky rocket-testing town
journey north to the mildly 139).
Hit the Stuart Hwy and
(p
dugouts of Coober Pedy
(p139) and the opal-tinged
The Lasseter
and cross into the NT.
enter the Simpson Desert
227) and the mesmerising
Trucking north, you’ll
eye-popping Uluru (p
there’s
but
weighty,
to
shows,
you
TV
takes
Hwy turn-off
the photos and the
formations. You’ve seen
Kata Tjuta (p228) rock
an Uluru sunset firsthand.
(Kings
nothing quite like seeing
vertigo-inducing Watarrka into
Uluru, the spectacular,
About 300km north of
travellers with scenic walks Alice
(p220) rewards intrepid
oasis of
Canyon) National Park
Finish up in the desert
has plenty
this gaping desert chasm.
and around the rim of
MacDonnell Ranges. Alice
heart of the steep-sided
some classy
Springs (p202), in the
Alice Springs Desert Park,
leg of your
few days: the excellent
to keep you busy for a
you gear-up for the next
in a swimming pool as
flight if
internal
an
or
Darwin,
restaurants or just a soak
to
drive or Ghan train ride
journey (the Stuart Hwy
you’re time-poor).
/ GETTY IMAGES ©
ON THE ROAD
1
2
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49
Peninsula cultural
Flinders Ranges, Yorke
Land (p120), and
tours run by Adjahdura
a province on
Tandanya National Aboriginal
South Australia was declared first British Adelaide’s
Also in Adelaide is
the
Cultural Institute (p57).
Gallery
28 December 1836, when
Bay (current- the Australian Aboriginal Cultures
colonists landed at Holdfast
(p55).
governor, Captain in the South Australian Museum
day Glenelg). The first
language is
the state capital
SA’s best-known Aboriginal
John Hindmarsh, named
Pitjantjara),
of the British mon- Pitjantjatjara (also known as
Adelaide, after the wife
Ananguthe eastern states which is spoken throughout the
arch, William IV. While
northern
of convict society, Pitjantjarjara Aboriginal Lands of
struggled with the stigma
Australian
citizens Ж a fact to SA, down almost to the Great
AdSA’s colonists were free
will happily Bight. The traditional language of the
which many South Australians
Kaurna-derived
elaide area is Kaurna. Many
draw your attention.
around the city:
a
on
survived
colony
have
the
names
place
The founders based
Onkaparideal of social engi- Aldinga comes from Ngultingga,
utopian 19th-century
and Noarat set prices by the inga from Ngangkiparringga,
neering. Land was sold
Adelaide Hills
help establish mainly lunga from Nurlungga. The
British government to
couples; the concept region is Peramangk country.
young, skilled married
country, is a
of men and women,
The Coorong, in Ngarrindjeri pans sepawas that equal numbers
political persecution, complex series of dunes and salt
Youngfree from religious and
the sea by the long, thin
new order.
would create an egalitarian 800 German rated from
takes its name from
husband Peninsula. It
Between 1838 and 1841,
persecuted Lu- the Ngarrindjeri word kurangh, meaning
farmers and artisans (many
Ngarrindjeri,
arrived and settled ‘long neck’. According to the
cretherans from Prussia)
Hills Ж now the their Dreaming ancestor, Ngurundjeri,
Hahndorf in the Adelaide
River.
village in the state. ated the Coorong and the Murray
a natubest preserved German
the next decade,
iconic Ikara (Wilpena Pound), Park,
over
The
followed
more
Many
with them Ж SA’s fa- ral basin in Flinders Ranges National who
bringing vine cuttings
people,
to take root.
is sacred to the Adnyamathanha than 15,000
mous vineyards began
progress was
in the area for more
The young colony’s early funds saved have lived
two akurra
Dreaming stories tell of
slow Ж only British governmentbecame self- years.
around Ikara
but it
(giant snakes) who coiled
a
it from bankruptcy Ж
and self- during an initiation ceremony, creating
supporting by the mid-1840s
the successful whirlwind and devouring the participants.
governing by 1856. Following
feast they
by local explorers, The snakes were so full after their
to die,
crossing of the continent
lay the Overland Tel- couldn’t move, and willed themselves
SA won the contract to
to Darwin, con- thus creating the landmark.
egraph from Port Augusta
first state to grant
world by telegram
In 1966, SA became the
In the
necting Australia to the
Following a
people title to their land.
(1872) and, later, telephone. century, the Aboriginal
land west of the Stu19th
early 1980s most of the
Perth
long recession in the late
to
railway
first to introduce art Hwy and north of the
government became the
ownership.
which South Austral- was transferred to Aboriginal
income tax Ж a fact to
occur, howyour attention…
Cultural clashes still sometimes
culians are hesitant to draw
progressive ever, exemplified by the politically and
SA has maintained its socially
controlegalised in 1876; turally divisive Hindmarsh Bridge
creed: trade unions were
Aboriginal
to stand for parlia- versy in the 1990s, which pitted
women were permitted
state was one of the beliefs against development.
ment in 1894; and the
to give women the
first places in the world
in Australia to out- National Parks
vote, and the first state
discrimination, legal- Around 22% of SA’s land area is under some
law racial and gender
management,
gay sex.
form of official conservation
ise abortion and decriminalise
recreation parks,
including national parks,
wildlife reserves.
Indigenous Adelaide
conservation parks and
Water
The Department of Environment,
& South Australia
www.environ
opportunities to & Natural Resources (DEWNR;
SA offers up some great
state’s conservacultures and beliefs. ment.sa.gov.au) manages the
and camping
learn about Aboriginal
the indigenous-run tion areas and sells park passes
Some of the best include
of Adelaide and the
Bookabee Tours (p53)
History
Why Go?
(SA).
in relaxed South Australia
Escape the east-coast frenzy
the heat by
driest continent, SA beats
The driest state on the
fine landscapes, fine festivals,
celebrating life’s finer things: other three) fine wine.
the
fine food and (…OK, forget gracious city offering worldAdelaide is a chilled-out,
scene.
pubs and a hedonistic arts
Clare
class festivals, restaurants,
Vale and the Barossa and
are
A day trip away, McLaren
wine regions. Further afield
Valleys are long-established
the Murray
Limestone Coast, and
Isthe watery wilds of the
towards the sea. Kangaroo
River, curling Mississippi-like
seafood await just offshore. off
land’s wildlife, forests and
and Eyre Peninsula are
To the west, Yorke Peninsula
Wheelbeachy, slow-paced detours.
the beaten track: both
fields give way to arid
wheat
Ranges,
north,
ing into the Flinders
ochre-coloured peaks. Further Pedy
cattle stations beneath
such as Woomera and Coober
eccentric outback towns
desert haze.
emerge from the dead-flat
Adelaide....................... 54
Adelaide Hills............... 78
Fleurieu Peninsula ...... 82
Kangaroo Island ..........90
Limestone Coast ......... 99
Murray River .............. 106
Barossa Valley ............ 112
Clare Valley ................. 117
Yorke Peninsula ......... 120
Eyre Peninsula ............124
Flinders Ranges.......... 131
Outback ......................138
Off The
Beaten Track
¨ Port Lincoln (p126)
When to Go
143)
¨ Oodnadatta Track (p
¨ Melrose (p132)
Rainfall inches/mm
Adelaide
20/500
°C/°F Temp
40/104
¨ Burra (p122)
16/400
12/300
30/86
8/200
20/68
4/100
Best Places
to Stay
10/50
¨ Port Elliot Beach House
YHA (p88)
¨ Stirling Hotel (p81)
¨ Wilpena Pound Resort
(p136)
¨ Marion Bay Motel (p
123)
)
¨ Largs Pier Hotel (p65
0/32
0
J
F
M
Feb–Mar Adelaide’s festival
season hits its
straps: Fringe and
WOMADelaide are
highlights.
A
M
J
J
A
S
Apr–May Low
autumn sunsets
and russet-red
grapevines: harvest is in the air.
O
N
D
Sep Football
finals time: yell
yourself silly
in the stands,
beer and pie in
hand(s).
Y
AUSTR ALIA H I S TO R
ADEL AIDE & SOUTH
2
Adelaide &
South Australia
Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range
(budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by
author preference.
COUNTRY
COUNT
COUN
T
TRY
&R
REGIONAL
RE
REG
GIONAL
GION
G
AL
Th ffreedom
The
d
you need
d to
t
plan the perfect trip.
These symbols give vital information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
UNDERSTAND
Learn about the big picture, to
make sense of what you see.
2 37
2 36
frontier Darwin,
civilised Adelaide to
collides
of central Australia, from
indigenous heritage
In many ways, the history
Australian history. Far-reaching
intertwine...
is a distillation of a broader
fall, resources and politics
settlements rise and
force.
with European ambitions,
has proved an indomitable
the harsh environment
Presiding over it all,
For a timely
account of
central Austral-
ian indigenous
history, check out
the SBS TV series
First Australians
(2008; www.sbs.
com.au/firstaus
tralians), or the
accompanying
book, edited by
Rachel Perkins
and Marcia
Langton.
AbAboriginal Settlement
60,000 years ago, when
Australia began around
Human contact with
what is now Indonesia
across the straits from
longest continuous
original people journeyed
– the beginning of the world’s
and Papua New Guinea
populated much of
cultural history.
years, Aboriginal people
Aboriginal relics
Within a few thousand
(SA), the earliest known
Australia. In South Australia dated at 43,000 years – around the same
Olary,
are rock carvings near
in northern Spain. In
the Cave of El Castillo
era as the paintings in
(NT), the oldest rock-art
the Northern Territory
Kakadu National Park in
Land, evidence sugfurther east in Arnhem
sites date back 20,000 years; produced as far back as 60,000 years ago.
being
gests that rock art was
about 24,000 years ago.
significance, songs
Central Australia was occupied
goods, items of spiritual
Aboriginal peoples traded
using routes that folAustralia and beyond,
complex system of
and dances across central
from the Dreaming, the
spirituality. An intilowed the paths of ancestors
that defines indigenous
country, culture and beliefs
behaviour ensured that
plant ecology and animal
mate understanding of
hostile deserts were ocEven central Australia’s
rare.
were
shortages
food
wells. Firestick farmto scattered permanent
cupied year-round, thanks
north of the deserts,
areas to the south and
ing was practised in forested
grass to encourage new
undergrowth and dead
involving the burning of
bushfires.
and reduce the threat of
growth, to attract game
Early Contact
He) may have been the
Admiral Cheng Ho (Zheng
reached Timor in
The Chinese eunuch
to northern Australia. He
first non-Aboriginal visitor
BC
AD 1627
1836
60,000
The Province of South
captain Francois
Experts say that Dutch
is proclaimed.
Thijssen, aboard the Australia
Aboriginal people setThe Àrst o՗cial settleGulden Zeepaard, is the
tled in Australia around
ment at Kingscote on
Àrst European to spy
this time. Evidence
Island is soon
the coast of SA. The Kangaroo
suggests the oldest
replaced by Adelaide,
French follow in the
rock-art sites in the NT
on the advice of Colonel
1700s, the British in the
William Light.
are 60,000 years old;
1800s.
those in SA date from
43,000 years.
to Australia. In 1879, a
suggest he also made it
found lodged in the
the 15th century, and some
Chinese god Shao Lao was
small, carved figure of the
the pro-Zheng camp
Darwin. That’s the clincher,
(1368–1644).
roots of a banyan tree in
dates from the Ming Dynasty the first Eusays: the carving apparently
that the Portuguese were
during the 16th
There’s evidence to suggest
northern coast, sometime
ropeans to sight Australia’s the Dutch. Famed Dutch navigator Abel
by
century, followed promptly
to the Kimberley in
coast, from Cape York
Tasman charted the north
traders from
Western Australia, in 1664.
to the north were Macassan up seasonal
Other 17th-century visitors
who set
Sulawesi in Indonesia),
the island of Celebes (today’s cucumber). Interracial relationships were
(sea
to Celebes to live.
camps to gather trepang
Aboriginal people journeying the first Eurocommon, with some local
made
ship Gulden Zeepaard
Down south, the Dutch
ships Recherche and
French
The
1627.
in
coast
pean sighting of the SA
explorer on the scene
1792, while the first British
L’Esperance followed in
Englishman Matthew
Grant in 1800. In 1802
Gulfs and Kangawas Lieutenant James
Bay, Spencer and St Vincent
Flinders charted Fowlers
Investigator.
the
ship
his
on
roo Island
Colonel William
Light, celebrated
planner of
Adelaide, died
from tuberculosis
in 1839, aged
54. Dogged by
criticism and
character slurs,
he passed away
before his vision
for the city could
fully be
appreciated.
N S M OV E I N
HISTORY E U R O P E A
3
History
In
Europeans Move
Sydney and fell into
Sturt headed inland from
(in today’s
In 1829 Captain Charles
downstream to Lake Alexandrina Society to
the Murray River, floating
inspired the National Colonisationfounded on
SA). His glowing reports
South Australian colony
propose a utopian, self-supporting
convict-based grants.
land sales, rather than
planned immigration with
Australian Colonisation
then passed the South
The British Parliament
established entirely by
the only Australian colony
Act in 1834, making SA
happily highlight).
most South Australians
at Kingscote on
free colonists (a distinction
was established in 1836
The first official settlement surveyor-general Colonel William Light
colonial
Kangaroo Island, before
WHAT LIES BENEATH
Darwin
City Waterfront development,
for the billion-dollar Darwin
peppered with
In 2005, making way
bombs. The harbour was
for unexploded Japanese
Some e՚iHarbour was dredged
damaging many more.
sinking eight ships and
60kg bombs during WWII,
the bottom of the harbour.
bombs lying latent at
in
detected 230 metal chunks
mates placed 160 unexploded
nervous hands, scans
fuse,
With the developers wringing
up little more than a brass
were called in, but turned
bombs, but we
the mud. Disposal experts
ship MV Neptuna. No
remnants of the sunken
a Chinese jug and some
poking around in the sludge…
sugge՚ you don’t go
1862
John McDouall Stuart
makes the Àrst south–
north crossing of the
continent from SA into
the NT, the highlight of
his many epic explorations.
1869
After three other NT
colonies all fail to take
hold, Palmerston
(renamed Darwin in
1911) is established by
George Goyder, South
Australia’s SurveyorGeneral.
1894
South Australian
women are the Àrst
in the British Empire
permitted to vote, and
the Àrst in the world
eligible to stand for
parliament.
1901
With the federation of
the disparate Australian colonies, South
Australia becomes a
state of the Commonwealth of Australia.
No payment required
% Telephone number
POCKET
POCK
ET
E English-language menu
h Opening hours
c Family-friendly
p Parking
# Pet-friendly
n Nonsmoking
g Bus
a Air-conditioning
f Ferry
i Internet access
j Tram
W Wi-fi access
d Train
4
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SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
Top
summer (the Wet in the
–
End) is the low season
much
prices can drop by as
of
as 30%. Book accommoAs well as the usual slew
parks dation in advance in peak
hotels, motels, caravan
periods.
and youth hostels, central
truly
Australia offers some
the
B&Bs
Aussie ways to spend
privacy
The atmosphere and
night. Roll out your swag
top.
park
of B&Bs can be hard to
under the desert stars,
Most B&Bs are ‘self-catering’,
your campervan at a remote
shirazmeaning breakfast provisions
cattle station, dream
cook.
plush
are provided for you to
coloured dreams in a
to
a
Rates are typically $100
wine region B&B or blow
climb
$180, though they can
small fortune on a luxury
higher.
‘tent’ with views of Uluru.
The South Australian
South
Seasons In southern
Tourist Commission (SATC)
peak
Australia (SA), prices
publishes a B&B booklet.
the
during summer (December
Online resources include
to February) and school
following:
and public holidays. Outside
and
¨ www.babs.com.au
these times discounts
be
lower walk-in rates can
¨ www.australianbedand
season
found. Winter is peak
breakfast.com.au
and
in the Flinders Ranges
¨ www.ozbedandbreakfast.
outback areas of northern
com
SA. In the Northern Territory
Dry)
¨ www.bandbfsa.com.au
(NT) peak season (the
plus
is June to September,
Camping
school and public holidays.
to
Bush camping at remote
April to May and October
is
shoul- sites or in national parks
November are quieter
and
der seasons up north,
Accommodation
SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
double
price ranges refer to a
In this book the following
otherwise
in high season. Unless
room with bathroom
camp site prices are for
indicated, unpowered/powered
two people.
less than $100
$
$100 to $200
$$
$$$
more than $200
a highlight of any central
desert,
Australian trip. In the
where rain and mosquitoes
you
are often not an issue,
– just
don’t even need a tent
slip into a swag.
Costs Payment is often
made into honesty boxes
per(around $7 to $15 per
son per night).
Facilities There are plenty
out
of free camping places
here, including roadside
parks
rest areas. In national
percamping is usually only
areas,
mitted in designated
where facilities can range
simple
from a fireplace and
and
pit toilet to hot showers
free gas barbecues.
Caravan Parks
Costs Central Australia’s
caravan parks are excellent
$20 to
value, charging from
$30 for two people camping,
slightly more for a powered
cabins
site. Most have basic
(from
with shared facilities
around $60) and en-suite
cabins with cooking facilities
ahead
($80 to $140). Book
cabins
for powered sites and
in peak season.
have
Facilities Most parks
a camp kitchen, laundry,
or
barbecues and a shop
kiosk, and all offer toilets
gods
and hot showers. If the
even
might
are smiling there
be a swimming pool.
Farm & Station Stays
For a true country experience, stay on a farm or
working cattle station.
ONLINE
BOOK YOUR STAY
reviews by Lonely Planet
For more accommodation
/hotels.lonelyplanet.com.
authors, check out http:/
reviews, as well as recommenYou’ll Ànd independent
can
to ՚ay. Be՚ of all, you
dations on the be՚ places
book online.
Many
cheap, central options.
boom
standards and enticements
pubs were built during
the
such as free breakfasts
times, so they’re often
and courtesy buses. Places
largest, most extravagant
¨ www.farmstaycamping
range from rundown pubs
buildings in town.
australia.com.au
trying to fill empty rooms,
Costs Pub singles/doubles
start
to converted motels where
¨ www.stayz.com.au/farm
with shared facilities
TV
if you
dorm units have a fridge,
-accommodation
around $40/60, more
mimic
and bathroom. Prices
¨ www.bandbfsa.com.au
want a private bathroom.
recepthose in the larger hostel
Few have a separate
¨ www.frabs.com.au
the
organisations.
tion area – just ask at
bar.
Ho՚els
Motels
have
Hostels are a highly social
Facilities Some pubs
For comfortable midrange
the
are
and low-cost fixture of
been restored as heritage
accommodation, motels
central Australian accommo- the way to go. They proliferbuildings, but generally
dation scene.
rooms remain small and
and smaller
costs ate in cities
old fashioned, with an
Costs A dormitory bed
towns, and many outback
to the
motel
amble down the hall
around $22 to $30, and
roadhouses also have
light
bathroom. If you’re a
most also have comfortable
rooms out the back.
a
private rooms from around
sleeper, avoid booking
at least
Costs Expect to pay
be
en
$60 ($70 to $90 with
up to
room above the bar, and
$90 for a double and
don’t
suite).
aware that pub rooms
$150 for more upmarket
always have air-con.
Facilities Most hostels
places.
have kitchens with fridges,
Facilities The average
and
Rental
microwaves
stoves,
motel is a modern (but
Accommodation
cooking utensils, communal
affair
anonymous) low-rise
and
areas with TV, a laundry,
rooms
Serviced apartments
with parking and tidy
motels
tea/
internet access (including
holiday flats resemble
that have a bathroom,
wi-fi), travellers’ noticebut usually contain cooking
making facilities, TV,
coffee
for
value
boards and tour-booking
facilities – good
fridge
telephone, air-con, a
of
and,
services.
longer stays. This kind
humming in the corner
a
accommodation is usually
if the gods are smiling,
HOSTEL ORGANISATIONS
found in beachy holiday
swimming pool.
servThere are several Australiaareas, while you’ll find
wide backpacker organisaiced apartments in Darwin
around Hotels
are
tions that run hostels
and Adelaide. In some
Fancy hotels and resorts
you
limited
the country (Base, Nomads
holiday accommodation
all around SA but are
etc), but in central Australia,
provide your own sheets
to Darwin, Alice Springs,
and
bedding; others are fully
your best bet is the everand
Canyon
Kings
Yulara,
reliable YHA (%08-8981
equipped.
Kakadu in the NT. Most
chain,
and
6344; www.yha.com.au)
have fabulous facilities
in SA
which runs 11 hostels
locations, but more than
are
and the NT. A Hostelling
Customs
a few five-star places
in
International membership
clinical and corporate
Regulations
rack
costs $42/80 for one/two
you
atmosphere. Although
When entering Australia
years, slightly less if you’re
in
rates are high, discounts
can bring most articles
rarely
younger than 26.
and deals mean you’ll
cusfree of duty, provided
peak
for
pay full price except in
toms is satisfied they’re
INDEPENDENT HOSTELS
you’ll
season.
personal use and that
Central Australia (parbe taking them with you
ticularly SA) has numerous
Pubs
compubs when you leave. Duty-free
independent hostels,
For the budget traveller,
per-adult quotas:
are
petition for the backpacker
(‘hotels’ that serve beer)
high
fairly
dollar prompting
central-australia-6-cover.indd 2
ISBN 978-1-74179-773-2
NS
S TO M S R EG U L AT I O
DIRECTORY A–Z C U
4
Directory A–Z
Some let you kick back
a
and watch workers raise
in
sweat; others rope you
Most
to day-to-day chores.
comaccommodation is very
the
fortable – B&B-style in
on
main homestead (dinner
request), or in self-contained
also
cottages. Some farms
provide budget outbuildings
Online,
or shearers’ quarters.
see the following:
Inspirational travel photography
and amazing ways to discover
even more of the world.
For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
26 3
262
TRAVEL BOOKS
v Vegetarian selection
6TH EDITION
Published Jun 2013
First Published Sep 1996
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newsletter
14/03/2013 11:31:09 AM
Central
Australia
Adelaide to Darwin
Darwin to
Uluru
(p145)
Adelaide &
South Australia
(p48)
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Charles Rawlings-Way, Meg Worby,
Lindsay Brown
PLAN
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to
Central Australia . . . . . . . . 4
Central Australia Map. . . . 6
Central Australia’s Top 12 8
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 16
First Time:
The Red Centre. . . . . . . . . 18
If You Like.... . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 24
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Your Outback Trip. . . . . . . 31
South Australian
Wine & Food . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Travel with Children. . . . . 43
Regions at a Glance. . . . . 45
BELINDA WRIGHT / GETTY IMAGES ©
FRILL-NECKED LIZARD
DAVID WALL / GETTY IMAGES ©
STANDLEY CHASM P218
ON THE ROAD
ADELAIDE & SOUTH
AUSTRALIA. . . . . . . . . 48
Adelaide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Adelaide Hills . . . . . . . . . . 78
Hahndorf. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Stirling Area . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Oakbank & Woodside . . . . . 81
Gumeracha,.
Birdwood & Lobethal. . . . . . 81
Fleurieu Peninsula. . . . . . 82
McLaren Vale . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Willunga. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Gulf St Vincent Beaches. . 85
Victor Harbor . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Port Elliot. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Goolwa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Kangaroo Island. . . . . . . . 90
Penneshaw &.
Dudley Peninsula. . . . . . . . 93
American River. . . . . . . . . . 94
Kingscote. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
North Coast Road . . . . . . . 96
South Coast Road . . . . . . . . 97
Flinders Chase.
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 98
Limestone Coast . . . . . . . 99
Coorong National Park. . . 99
Robe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Beachport. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
Mount Gambier . . . . . . . . . 102
Penola &
the Coonawarra
Wine Region . . . . . . . . . . 104
Naracoorte Caves
National Park . . . . . . . . . 105
Murray River. . . . . . . . . . 106
Murray Bridge. . . . . . . . . . . 107
Mannum to Waikerie. . . . . 107
Barmera & Around. . . . . . . 108
Loxton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Berri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Renmark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Barossa Valley. . . . . . . . . 112
Tanunda. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Nuriootpa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Angaston. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Clare Valley. . . . . . . . . . . 117
Auburn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Mintaro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Clare. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Yorke Peninsula . . . . . . . 120
West Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
East Coast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
South Coast &.
Innes National Park. . . . . . 123
Eyre Peninsula &
the West Coast. . . . . . . . 124
Port Augusta. . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Whyalla. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Port Lincoln. . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Port Lincoln.
to Streaky Bay . . . . . . . . . . 127
Streaky Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Ceduna. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Ceduna to the Western
Australian Border. . . . . . . . 130
Flinders Ranges . . . . . . . 131
Southern.
Ranges Towns. . . . . . . . . . . 131
Mt Remarkable .
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Quorn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Hawker. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Flinders Ranges.
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Blinman & Parachilna. . . . 137
Leigh Creek & Copley . . . . 137
Vulkathunha-Gammon
Ranges National Park. . . . 138
Arkaroola. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Outback. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Woomera. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
Woomera to.
Coober Pedy. . . . . . . . . . . . 139
Coober Pedy. . . . . . . . . . . . 139
Contents
UNDERSTAND
Coober Pedy to Marla. . . . 142
Oodnadatta Track. . . . . . . . 143
Oodnadatta to.
William Creek. . . . . . . . . . . 143
Coward Springs to.
Marree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Birdsville Track. . . . . . . . . . 144
Strzelecki Track . . . . . . . . . 144
Innamincka. . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
DARWIN
TO ULURU . . . . . . . . . 145
Central Australia
Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
Aboriginal Australia. . . . 243
Indigenous
Visual Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . 248
The Outback
Environment. . . . . . . . . . 255
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . 262
Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287
Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 294
SPECIAL FEATURES
First Time:
the Red Centre. . . . . . . . . 18
19
Money
First Time:
The Red Centre
For more information, see Survival Guide (p262)
Checklist
South Australian
Wine & Food. . . . . . . . . . . 39
Indigenous
Visual Art . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
 Make sure your passport
is valid for at least six months
past your arrival date.
 Check the airline baggage
restrictions.
 Inform your debit/credit
card company.
 Arrange for appropriate
travel insurance (p267 ).
 Check if you can use your
mobile/cell phone (p270).
What to Pack
 Sturdy walking shoes –
there are many excellent
walks, long and short.
 Warm clothes – the desert
nights are surprisingly cold
in winter.
 Hat, sunglasses and
sunscreen.
 Water bottle.
 Australian electrical
adapter.
Top Tips for Your Trip
 On long drives don’t forget to stop the car regularly to reboot your
brain. Outside the confines of the car you’ll find revitalizing fresh air
and some of Australia’s friendliest characters to meet and greet.
 Avoid driving at night. The empty landscape teems with carwrecking kangaroos at night, while cattle find the sun-warmed roads
a fine place to rest on a cold desert night.
What to Wear
It will be of no surprise to learn that the theme is casual;
however, it is not a free-for-all and many dining and entertainment venues will require covered shoes or sandals (no
flip-flops or singlets). The central deserts are very cold in
winter, with sub-zero temperatures at night. As soon as the
sun sets winter woolies are needed. Sensible and stylish
under the outback sun is the broad-brimmed hat and, if you
are travelling in summer, bring swimwear to cool off in the
waterholes and swimming pools.
Sleeping
ATMs are mostly restricted
to the big centres and
tourist hot-spots, however
there are several ATMs in
roadhouses along the Stuart Hwy. Most ATMs accept
cards issued by other banks
and are linked to international networks. Most
businesses have Eftpos
(Electronic Funds Transfer
at Point of Sale) facilities
for your credit and debit
card. American Express
and Diners Club credit
cards are not as widely accepted as Mastercard and
Visa and will often incur a
greater fee.
For more information,
see p268.
Bargaining
Gentle haggling is fairly
common in weekend markets, second-hand shops
and often when purchasing
arts and crafts from the
artist. It’s common practice
to ask for a discount on
expensive items when paying cash (not that you are
guaranteed to get one). In
most other instances you
are expected to pay the
stated price.
During the peak season (June to August) it is best to book
accommodation to avoid disappointment. See p262 for more
accommodation information.
Tipping
 Roadhouses One-stop shops along the highways where you
can fuel up and get a meal, a drink, and a bed. Standards range
from basic dongas with share facilities to modern motel rooms.
Campsites are also usually available.
 Restaurants For excellent
table service tip 5% to 10%
 Caravan Parks Most caravan parks have cabins in addition to
the caravan and camping sites. The best also have swimming pools,
licensed restaurants and camp kitchens.
 Hostels Only found in Alice Springs, hostels tend to be highly
social affairs ideal for young travellers looking to meet others and
find work.
 Hotels & Motels At the tourist hotspots (Yulara, Alice
Springs, Kings Canyon) you will find quality four-star hotels. Pub
accommodation is usually very basic and motels are typically clean,
convenient and conventional.
 Hotels Not usually expected
 Taxis Not expected, but
the drivers will appreciate you
rounding up the fare
Standley Chasm (p218;)
Etiquette
 Greetings Usually a simple ‘G’day’ or ‘Howzitgoin?’ suffices.
Shake hands with men or women when meeting for the first
time. Australian’s expect a firm handshake with eye contact.
However, when visiting an Aboriginal community this can be seen
as overbearing. Here, a soft clasp with little arm movement, and
virtually no eye contact can be expected. The best advice is to
take it as it comes and respond in like manner.
 Shout Australians like to take it in turn to buy (‘shout’) a round
of drinks for the group and everyone is expected to take part.
 Alcohol Check whether alcohol rules apply when visiting a
community. You may be breaking the law even with unopened
bottles in your vehicle.
Eating
 Restaurants The Centre has a small selection of fine-dining
restaurants found within the better hotels in Alice Springs and
Yulara. Here you will get the chance to sample bush herbs and
marsupial meat in addition to more familiar European fare. Also,
Alice Springs has a handful of Asian restaurants.
 Roadhouses More of a necessity than a recommendation,
roadhouse fare (think burgers and steaks) suffers from the
tyranny of distance, whereby fresh ingredients and reliable cooks
are hard to source. Nevertheless, there are some pearls.
PL AN YOUR TRIP F I R S T T I M E : T H E R E D C E N T R E
Your Outback Trip . . . . . . 31
18
DAVID WALL PHOTO / GETTY IMAGES ©
Darwin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Around Darwin . . . . . . . . 171
Mandorah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
Tiwi Islands. . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
Arnhem Highway. . . . . . . . 173
Mary River Region. . . . . . . 174
Stuart Highway.
to Litchfield.
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Litchfield.
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Adelaide.
River to Katherine. . . . . . . 177
Kakadu &
Arnhem Land. . . . . . . . . . 179
Kakadu National Park. . . . 179
Arnhem Land . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Katherine to
Alice Springs. . . . . . . . . . 188
Katherine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Around Katherine. . . . . . . . 193
Katherine to.
Western Australia. . . . . . . . 195
Mataranka &.
Elsey National Park. . . . . . 197
Barkly Tableland &.
Gulf Country. . . . . . . . . . . . 198
Mataranka to.
Tennant Creek. . . . . . . . . . 199
Tennant Creek. . . . . . . . . . 199
Tennant Creek to.
Alice Springs. . . . . . . . . . . . 201
The Tanami Road. . . . . . . 202
Alice Springs. . . . . . . . . 202
MacDonnell Ranges. . . . 216
East MacDonnell.
Ranges. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
West MacDonnell.
Ranges. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
Red Centre Way
(Mereenie Loop). . . . . . . 219
Larapinta Drive. . . . . . . . . . 219
Mereenie Loop Road. . . . 220
Kings Canyon &.
Watarrka National Park. . 220
South of
Alice Springs. . . . . . . . . . 221
Old South Road . . . . . . . . . 221
Uluru-Kata
Tjuta National Park. . . . 223
Uluru (Ayers Rock) . . . . . 227
Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) . . 228
Heading West . . . . . . . . . . 228
Yulara.
(Ayers Rock Resort). . . . . 228
On the
Road
Darwin to
Uluru
(p145)
Adelaide &
South Australia
(p48)
Stu
e
# 0
0
200 km
100 miles
125°E
#
÷
3
a rt
4
4
44
44
4
4
3
33
33
3
3333
3
33
33 33
33
33 33
3
TIMOR
SEA
3
3
33
3
3
130°E
140°E
145°E
135°E
Cape
Wessel
York
Tiwi Islands Melville Van
ARAFURA
Islands
Island
Diemen
Bathurst
SEA
#
\
Gunbalanya
Island
Nguiu Gulf
\ Maningrida
(Oenpelli) #
#
\ Nhulunbuy
ELEVATION
Mary
River
Darwin
Mindil Beach
#
\
^
# National Park
Arnhem
Gove
Sunset Market
#
\ Jabiru
#
÷
1500m
Peninsula
Land
# Kakadu
÷
Batchelor
Fab food and music (p168)
#
\
National Park
1000m
Litchfield ÷
\ Adelaide River
##
750m
National Park
Kakadu National Park
#
\ Hayes Creek
Cape
500m
Astonishing natural and
\
\
Daly #
Londonderry
Nitmiluk
#
\ Alyangula
Joseph
Pine #
250m
cultural landscapes (p179)
Gorge) Numbulwar
River
# (Katherine
÷
Bonaparte
Creek
#
\
National Park
0
Gulf
Groote
\
#
\ Barunga
Katherine #
Gulf of
Eylandt
#
\ Ngukurr
#
\
Carpentaria
Gregory
Mataranka
Keep River Timber
National
÷
#
#
÷
Crocodiles inhabit rivers, billabongs
National
Sir
Edward
°S
Park
Creek
15
Wyndham #
#
\ Larrimah
\
#
\
Park
Pellew Group
and estuaries in tropical areas.
Limmen
#
\
#
\ ÷
Victoria River
National
#
Borroloola
Daly
#
\
Kununurra
Park
Nitmiluk (Katherine
Crossing
C
Mornington
#
÷
\ arpen ta
Waters #
ria
Gorge) National Park
Island
Gregory
Lake
#
\
Hwy#
#
\ Dunmarra
\
Cape York
National
Paddle Katherine Gorge (p193)
Argyle
Top
Cape
Peninsula
Park
Springs
Crawford
B
Kalkarinji #
ar
#
\
Newcastle
The
\
#
\ Elliott
Derby
k
Kimberley
ly
Burketown
Waters
#
\
#
\
Renner
#
\ Normanton
Waanyi/
Halls
Springs
#
\
Lajamanu
NORTHERN
Garawa
Creek #
#
\
\
#
\
Aboriginal
b
Fitzroy
TERRITORY
Mataranka Springs
le
Land
Crossing
la
One of the NT's many
Karlantijpa North
n
Ba
d
cool pools (p197)
Aboriginal Land
rk
s
ly
#
\
Hw
Tennant
y
Central Desert
#
\ Camooweal
Creek
Karlantijpa
Aboriginal Land
Wakaya
South
Wauchope Aboriginal
\
Aboriginal #
Da
Land
\
#
\
Mt Isa #
v
Great Sandy Desert
Land
Cloncurry
Ra en
Hughenden
ng p o r
#
\
Central
es t
Mt Stuart
Lake Mackay
(849m)R
Aboriginal
QUEENSLAND
\
Ti Tree #
Land
#
\
Yuendumu
\
Aileron #
#
\ Winton
WESTERN
Lake
#
\
West MacDonnell Harts R ange
Mackay
AUSTRALIA
Boulia
Haasts Bluff
National Park
Atnetye
Aboriginal Land
#
÷
#
] Alice Springs
Longreach #
Aboriginal Land
\
Hermannsburg #
\
Central Australia
Ta
Hwy
Birdsville\
#
Oodnadatta Track
Adventurous 615km
outback detour (p143)
3
333
333
3
44
3
33 3333
33
33
44
43
33 3 44
3
33
33
43
43
44
44
44
4
4
3
33
3
333
333
344
33
44
4
4
333
333
33
33
344
3
33
333
3
3333
3333
33
33
333
33
3333
33
3
3
#
÷
# Finke Gorge
÷
#
÷
Pmere Nyente
Watarrka National Park Aboriginal Land
National
Park
Kaltukatjara \
#
Simpson Desert
Yulara (Kings Canyon)\
(Docker River)
# Erldunda
#
Kata Tjuta æ
#\
Pmer Ulperre
R Mt Conner
#
æ
#
Ingwemirne
Uluru-Kata Tjuta ÷
(350m) \
# Kulgera
Aboriginal Land
National Park Uluru
33
Petermann
Aboriginal Land
130°E
SOUTHERN
OCEAN
135°E
wy
Alice Springs
125°E
Katherine
Darwin
Adelaide
tH
Mt Gambier
Stu a r
Port Augusta
l l e T r ac k
Bi r
ds v
i
e
\
Mt Gambier #
#
Kingston SE \
#
\
Naracoorte
\
#
Beachport
Str
z
#
÷
#
]
VICTORIA
^
# Melbourne
Bendigo
]
#
Ballarat
Horsham
Hamilton
#
]
#
]
Simpson Desert
Conservation Park Innamincka
Witjira
Pitjantjatjara
Uluru-Kata Tjuta
National Park #
÷ Simpson Desert
Regional
Aboriginal Land
nadatt
National Park
Regional Reserve Reserve
Ood
a
Mintabie #
\
÷
#
Two natural wonders (p223)
# Marla
\
Great
# Oodnadatta
\
Victoria
SOUTH
Innamincka \
#
Desert
Lake
Strzelecki
AUSTRALIA
Eyre
Regional
#
÷
#
\
Reserve
÷
#
÷
#
Conservation
Coober
Cunnamulla
#
÷
Lake Eyre
Tallaringa #
Park
\ Pedy
National
\ Laverton
#
Conservation
Maralinga Tjarutja
Park
Park
ki
Aboriginal Land
The Ghan
lec
#
\
Marree
Adelaide to Darwin
VulkathunhaYellabinna
Roxby
by rail (p283)
Ikara (Wilpena Pound)
Gammon Ranges
Nullarbor
Regional
Leigh
Downs \
# National Park
÷
#
Regional Reserve
Reserve
#
Remarkable Flinders Ranges
Creek \
÷
#
÷
#
Lake
Torrens
rock formations (p135)
# National Park
Woomera ÷
#
\
Lake Gairdner ÷
Nullarbor Border
Lake ÷
#
Flinders
Ranges
#
Yalata
#
\
National
Park
#
Plain Village ÷
# National Park
Torrens \
Broken Wilcannia
#
Lake
Yalata
#\
\
Nullabor
\
#
Wilpena
Hill
\
Gairdner
Hawker #
Eucla
National Aboriginal
\
#
#
\
Gawler Ranges
Park
Ceduna
Land
\ Quorn
Port #
National Park
Adelaide
Central Market
#
]
Augusta
#
÷
ROAD DISTANCES (km)
\
Multicultural downtown
Streaky Bay #
Peterborough
#
÷
Whyalla
\
#
#
\
Pinkawillinie
Note: Distances
foodie delights (p55)
#
\
Conservation Park
Alice Springs 1524
are approximate
Port Pirie
Danggali
Great Australian Bight
Cowell
#
#
÷
Conservation
Elliston \
\
#
\ Burra
#
Eyre
Darwin
3020 1496
Park
\
#
NEW
\
#
Peninsula
Renmark Mildura
Wallaroo Clare
SOUTH
\
#
Katherine
2702 1178 318
\ Tumby
#
]
#
Coffin #
\
#
\
\
Bay
WALES
Loxton
Tanunda #
#
Mt Gambier 430 1960 3460 3150
Bay \
Port
#
Adelaide ^
Murray
Kangaroo Island
\
#
Lincoln
Port Augusta 300 1224 2720 2402 750
\ Ouyen
Bridge Pinnaroo
#
Wildlife, wilderness and
\
#
Kingscote
35°S
#
\
\
#
fine edibles (p90)
Tennant Ck 2032 508 988 670 2470 1732
\ Meningie
Victor #
McLaren Vale Wine Region
#
Harbor ÷
One of SA's brilliant
Kangaroo
Bordertown
Coorong
\
Island
National Park #
wine regions (p82)
Kings Canyon & Watarrka
National Park
A unique outback oasis (p220)
Gibson
Desert
k
Trac
Tra
ck
CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS
Cathy Craigie is a Gamilaori/Anaiwon woman from northern New South Wales. She is a freelance
writer and cultural consultant and has extensive experience in Aboriginal Affairs. Cathy contributed
the Aboriginal Australia chapter.
Brenda L Croft was born in Perth, now lives in on the south coast of New South Wales, and she is
a senior research fellow at the University of NSW. Brenda is from the Gurindji/Malngin/Mudpurra
peoples in the Northern Territory on her paternal side, and of Anglo-Australian/German/Irish heritage on her maternal side. She has been involved in the arts and cultural sectors for three decades
as an artist, arts administrator, curator, writer, academic and consultant. Brenda contributed the
Indigenous Visual Arts chapter.
David Fuller & Kylie Strelan wrote the Outback Environment chapter. David has worked for the last
22 years as a parks and wildlife ranger, and Kylie is an editor with an environmental consultancy.
They lived for more than 15 years in national parks throughout the Northern Territory, including
Garig Gunak Barlu, the West MacDonnells and Nitmiluk. With a passion for road trips (and family
to visit in Adelaide), David and Kylie have driven the length of the Stuart Hwy more times than they
care to recall.
Dr Irene Watson wrote the section headed The Land & Indigenous Peoples in the Outback Environment chapter, first published in Lonely Planet’s Aboriginal Australia & the Torres Strait Islands:
Guide to Indigenous Australia. Dr Watson is now working with the University of South Australia. Dr
Watson writes: ‘I am a Tanganekald and Meintangk woman; my ancestors are the sovereign peoples
of the Coorong and the southeast region of South Australia.’
OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and
Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook
should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS
Charles Rawlings-Way
Co-coordinating author; Adelaide & South Australia As a likely lad, Charles suffered in shorts through Tasmanian winters, and in summer counted the days til
he visited his grandparents in Adelaide. With desert-hot days, cool swimming
pools, pasties with tomato sauce squirted into the middle and four TV stations,
this flat city held paradisiacal status. In teenage years he realised that girls from
Adelaide – with their Teutonic cheekbones and fluoridated teeth – were better
looking than anywhere else in Australia. These days he lives with a girl from Adelaide (see fluoridated teeth, aforementioned) in the Adelaide Hills and has developed an unnatural appreciation
for Coopers Pale Ale. An underrated rock guitarist and proud father of daughters, Charles has
penned 20-something guidebooks for Lonely Planet.
Meg Worby
Co-coordinating author; Adelaide & South Australia After six years at Lonely
Planet in the languages, editorial and publishing teams, Meg swapped the desktop for a laptop in order to write about her home state, South Australia. After 10
years away, she was stoked to find that King George whiting is still every bit as
fresh on Kangaroo Island, there are the same endless roads to cruise down in the
Flinders Ranges, and the Adelaide Hills now has more wineries. In fact, obvious
wine analogies aside, she found that most places in South Australia just keep getting better. This is
Meg’s fourth Australian guidebook for Lonely Planet.
Lindsay Brown
Darwin to Uluru; First Time: the Red Centre; Your Outback Trip; The Outback
Environment A former conservation biologist and publishing manager of outdoor activity guides at Lonely Planet, Lindsay enjoys nothing more than heading
into the outback in his trusty old 4WD to explore and photograph Australia’s
heartland. As a Lonely Planet author, Lindsay has contributed to several titles including Australia, Central Australia, Northern Territory, Queensland & the Great
Barrier Reef, East Coast Australia, Sydney & New South Wales and Walking in Australia.
OVER MORE
PAGE WRITERS
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
6th edition – Jun 2013
the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74179 773 2
mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in China
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,
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and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such
as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
27
Itineraries
West MacDonnell Ranges
National Park
÷
#
É
Tylers
Pass c
Tnorala
Conservation #
÷ É
Park
•
# Alice
Springs
•
#
É
Hermannsburg
÷
#
Watarrka
(Kings Canyon) #
÷
National Park
Finke Gorge
National Park
É
É
É
É
É
É
÷
#
Uluru-Kata Tjuta
National Park
NORTHERN TERRITORY
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
3 KS The Red Centre
WEE
Getting to Australia’s red desert heart is half the fun: hop on an internal flight from the
east coast, jump on the legendary train the Ghan from either Darwin or Adelaide, or
tackle the Stuart Hwy from the north or south. But whichever conveyance you choose,
you’ll be confronted by one of Australia’s great truths: this place is gargantuan! Travel in
winter to beat the heat.
Alice Springs (p202; just ‘Alice’ to her friends) will come as sweet relief if you’ve been
clocking up the desert highway miles. Enjoy the trappings of civilisation for a while, but
don’t dally: there are national parks out there waiting to be explored!
Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park (p223) is a must-see, but Finke Gorge National
Park (p219) is for serious 4WD-ers. More accessible is the Watarrka (Kings Canyon)
National Park (p220) and West MacDonnel Ranges National Park (p217).
For a real taste of outback driving, head for Tylers Pass (p217) in the ‘West Macs’,
from where you can view the crater of Tnorala Conservation Park (p219). From here,
if you’ve got a 4WD, take the ‘inner loop’ road down to Hermannsburg (p219) and back
to Alice on Larapinta Dr – but be prepared for some devilish road corrugations!
28
É
NORTHERN
TERRITORY
QUEENSLAND
É
Coober
SOUTH
AUSTRALIA
•
# Pedy
É
PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries
WESTERN
AUSTRALIA
÷
#
É
Kata
Tjuta •
#•
#
Uluru
É
Watarrka
(Kings Canyon) Alice
#
National Park •
Springs
Flinders Ranges
National Park
÷
#
É
#
Woomera •
É
É
NEW
SOUTH
WALES
Clare Valley •
#
ACT
É
Barossa
•
# Valley
Adelaide •
#
•
# McLaren Vale Wine Region
Kangaroo
•
#
÷
#
Island Coorong
National Park Coonawarra
Wine Region
VICTORIA
•
#
É
#
Great Ocean •
Road
4KS Adelaide to Alice Springs
WEE
If you’re hoofing it over to SA from Victoria, super-scenic Great Ocean Road conveniently
spits you out near the Coonawarra Wine Region (p104). From here explore the dunes
and lagoons of Coorong National Park (p99), sip your way through McLaren Vale
Wine Region (p82), then either hop over to Kangaroo Island (p90) for a few days, or roll
into festival-frenzied Adelaide (p54). Don’t miss a trip to Central Market for lunch, and a
night eating and drinking on Rundle St. If it’s hot, cool off inside the estimable Art Galley
of SA, or hop on the tram for a beachy swim at palindromic Glenelg.
More wine! About an hour north of Adelaide is the old-school Barossa Valley (p112;
big reds); and about two hours north is the boutiquey Clare Valley (p117) with its worldclass riesling, cottagey B&Bs and old stone mining towns.
Continuing north, raggedy Flinders Ranges National Park (p131) jags up from the
semi-desert like a rust-coloured mirage. Rich in indigenous culture, the Flinders – the
heart of which is the amazing Ikara (Wilpena Pound) – will etch itself into your memory.
Hit the Stuart Hwy and journey north to the mildly spooky rocket-testing town Woomera
(p139) and the opal-tinged dugouts of Coober Pedy (p139).
Trucking north, you’ll enter the Simpson Desert and cross into the NT. The Lasseter
Hwy turn-off takes you to weighty, eye-popping Uluru (p227) and the mesmerising
Kata Tjuta (p228) rock formations. You’ve seen the photos and the TV shows, but there’s
nothing quite like seeing an Uluru sunset firsthand.
About 300km north of Uluru, the spectacular, vertigo-inducing Watarrka (Kings
Canyon) National Park (p220) rewards intrepid travellers with scenic walks into
and around the rim of this gaping desert chasm. Finish up in the desert oasis of Alice
Springs (p202), in the heart of the steep-sided MacDonnell Ranges. Alice has plenty
to keep you busy for a few days: the excellent Alice Springs Desert Park, some classy
restaurants or just a soak in a swimming pool as you gear-up for the next leg of your
journey (the Stuart Hwy drive or Ghan train ride to Darwin, or an internal flight if
you’re time-poor).
29
STEVE PARISH / CORBIS ©
PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries
KYLIE MCLAUGHLIN / GETTY IMAGES ©
Top: Flinders Ranges
National Park (p131)
Bottom: Outdoor dining,
Rundle St, Adelaide
30
É
Kakadu
É
PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries
#
Darwin •
É
÷ National
#
Park
Litchfield
National #
÷
Park
É
Nitmiluk
÷ (Katherine Gorge)
#
#
Katherine •
É
National Park
É
•
# Mataranka
WESTERN
AUSTRALIA
NORTHERN TERRITORY
2 KS Darwin, Kakadu & Katherine
WEE
Gone are the days when Darwin (p151) was a brawling frontier town full of fishermen,
miners and truck drivers blowing off steam. These days there seem to be more backpackers here than anyone else, and Darwin is very multicultural, as a visit to the fabulous
Mindil Beach Sunset Market will confirm. Grab some Thai stir-fry, Indonesian beef rendang, a Malaysian laksa or a Greek souvlaki and head for the beach.
While you’re in Darwin, don’t miss the outdoor Deckchair Cinema in the dry season,
and the outstanding Aboriginal and Cyclone Tracy exhibits at the Museum & Art Gallery
of the Northern Territory. Also worth a look is the atmospheric Saturday-morning Parap
Village Market, crammed with tropical produce and food stalls, followed by a night on
Mitchell St, where a free-wheelin’, anything-goes vibe confirms Darwin’s rep as a hedonistic haven (…depending on your mood, you might want to head for bed before or around
1am, after which things can get messy). Shopping-wise, the commercial galleries in Darwin are great for making an informed, ethical purchase of some Aboriginal art.
A few hours south on the Stuart Hwy you’ll run into some superb national parks. Litchfield National Park (p176) is famous for its plummeting waterfalls, bushwalks and
cooling swimming holes – so welcoming on a hot day. From here, backtrack 50km north
then head east into World Heritage-listed Kakadu National Park (p179), a wetland of
international significance with amazing rock outcrops dappled with equally amazing,
millennia-old Aboriginal rock art. Check out the Kakadu wildlife too: crocs, lizards,
snakes, brolgas, jabirus, barramundi and flocks of raucous birdlife.
Further south is Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park (p193), where the
Katherine River cuts its way through 13 jagged ravines. Take a walk, a swim, a scenic
flight, or paddle a canoe to find an isolated spot for lunch. Katherine (p189) is the
regional ‘big-smoke’: there’s not a lot going on here, but it’s a good place to stock-up for
your road trip or take a dip in some thermal springs. Continuing south, there are also
thermal springs at Mataranka (p197) − soak off the road dust in a (free!) naturallyheated swimming hole and wonder what the folks back home are doing this afternoon.
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