THE “HOW TO...”MANUAL

Transcription

THE “HOW TO...”MANUAL
INFORMATION FOLDER
HARD FLOOR
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x
x
x
x
x
x
x
Vinyl Tiles
Sheet Vinyl
Linoleum Flooring
Epoxy Coated Floors
Textured and profiled composite rubber
Terrazzo Marble & Composite Marble Tiles
Vitrified and semi vitrified tiles
Elastomeric Polyester
TIMBER FLOOR
x
x
x
x
Daylight Express
Tung Oil Seal
Safestep
Floating Floors
CARPET
x How to treat spots and spills
x Carpet spotting chart
High Technology Chemistry and Cleaning Systems for the Carpet Maintenance and Sanitation Industries
Wedina Holdings Pty. Ltd. A.B.N 65 002 373 319
48 Wentworth Street, Granville NSW 2142. Ph: (02) 8868 6888 Fax: (02) 9682 6855
PO BOX 142 Artarmon NSW 1570
Email: [email protected] Web: www.research-products.com.au
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VINYL TILES
FLOOR CARE PROTECTION PROCEDURES
Description
A hard square tile usually having a marbled appearance also available in plain solid colours. Formally
known as vinyl asbestos tiles but since the seventies they have been made from PVC and organic fillers.
Characteristics
Tend to show poorer wear characteristics and higher stain absorbency than sheet vinyl or urethane
coated vinyl. Left uncoated and protected the tile will blackmark and absorb soils and stains. Constant
washing in unsealed condition will “washout” pigment and binder / plasticiser causing colour fading.
Evaluation of new Surface
If the surface is new it must be stripped to remove factory wax coating. This coating is only there to stop
the tiles sticking together in storage and will reduce adhesion if not removed from newly laid tiles (refer
How to bring floors to life of floor finish coatings).
Existing Coated Surface
Light Soil / Dull Floors:
If the floor has yellowed from dirt penetration, scrubbing & buffing recoating may be necessary.
Heavy Soil / Black marks / Dull
If floor is deeply gouged, dull & black marked and soiled the sealer finish may have worn away. A
heavy cutback and recoating may be necessary. Stripping will be necessary if low appearance level is
indicated.
How To Bring a Floor Back to Life
Light Cutback
Use Supastar or Neutraclean diluted 1 to 25 parts water.
Flood apply to stop the floor drying whilst scrubbing. Autoscrub or machine scrub using a red or green
scrubbing pad. Damp mop rinse before drying with clean cold water to remove soil slurry. Allow the
floor to dry completely before dust mopping and dry burnishing with a red / tan or bassine brush. If
UHS equipment is being used a Jackaroo or Jackaroo light pad should be used to “pop” gloss.
Page 2 of 3
Heavy Cutback / Recoat
Substitute Neutraclean or Supastar with Crossfire applying 1 part to 25 parts water. Use a green or
blue pad and scrub the floor in a left to right arc. Wet mop rinse with cold water to remove
scrubber residue using clean water in the bucket every 20m2. Allow the floor to dry thoroughly
prior to dust mopping and dry burnishing. Recoat as described above.
Dry Stripping
To cut time in small areas and high density “funnel” areas dry strip using Sledgehammer, 1 to 10
parts water and a brown pad. Just spray lightly, wait 5 minutes then dry pad off.
Total Stripping - No Scrub Method
Flood mop apply stripper with a cotton or fringe mop using Sledgehammer, 1 part to 4 parts cold
water. Allow up to 15 minutes for activation / penetration. Reapply if drying too fast. Wring out
mop, mop off sealer buildup into stripper solution bucket. Push the mop ferrule heavily onto the
floor to dislodge the existing finish. Particularly required for edges (an alternative is a doodlebug
& black pad). Dry burnish the floor as described above. When fully dry - recoat as above.
N.B. Both Sledgehammer and Steamroller are near neutral pH. Products with “new technology”
penetrating agents. This technology provides a “No scrub” water “Rinse free” application - a huge
time and labour saver.
New Floors - Remove Factory Coating
Flood mop with Sledgehammer, 1 part to 4 parts water. Allow to penetrate the factory protective
coating. After 10 minutes mop off stripper residue with a well wrung out stripping mop. There is
no need to rinse or use hot water. Machine burnish when dry with new Tan red pad (400RPM).
(Use Jackaroo pad or Jackaroo light pad if machine is 1500RPM+), or use a new or clean brush.
This helps gloss the floor and removes any adhering or seal “bits” of dirt prior to recoating.
Applying Sealer Finish
Due to commercial vinyl tiles being porous and having a tendency to have an uneven surface, it is
advisable to apply 2 coats of Bedrock base coat prior to applying top coats.
New vinyl tiles lack porosity and have superior surface smoothness there is no need to precoat
with Bedrock sealer. Because this surface is usually soft & flexible, a harder sealer finish is
necessary to reduce scuffing and help the surface resist damage. 2 or more coats of sealer finish is
recommended using either Spartacus or Glazer.
Applying 1st Coat
The Polyester cotton mop should be loaded but not dripping. Apply the 1st coat evenly in a figure
eight pattern ensuring a wet edge is kept to adjoining areas. Allow a minimum 20 minutes
between coats and test for dryness prior to recoating. Depending on gloss and wear resistance. 2 to
5 coats will be required. Use a drier mop on subsequent coats.
Page 3 of 3
Maintenance
Using either mop / bucket or an auto scrubber a simple maintenance clean will keep the floor
looking like new. The best method for heavy traffic - Food court areas - Supermarkets etc is the
bucket wet mop & rinse system using Supastar or Neutraclean 1 - 50 or 1 - 80 (check label).
Wet mop 50 m2. Then using clean cold water in a 2nd bucket, damp mop rinse applying medium
pressure to the mop.
Quick Method
Using 1 - 40 / 1 - 60 dilution damp mop in figure of eight pattern changing solution in bucket
every 30 minutes. This recommendation is for low soilage areas. The twin bucket system is
superior for the life of the floor finish.
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SHEET VINYL
FLOOR CARE PROTECTION PROCEDURE
Description
Sheet vinyl is usually laid in strips 3 metres wide and heat welded curving upwards at the skirting
to create a waterproof membrane. These surfaces are softer than vinyl tiles to create a quieter
surface.
Characteristics
High PVC content gives better untreated gloss. Lower porosity gives greater stain
resistance than vinyl tiles. However due to softness more scuffing problems occur.
Evaluation of New Surface
Remove factory finish if new by stripping with a blue or black pad.
Improper floor preparation can result in poor adhesion of finish coats and dramatically reduce
gloss & wear resistance.
Existing Coated Floor Surface
Light soil / Dull Floor
If the surface has yellowed or soil penetration has occurred, scrubbing and buffing or coating and
recoating may be necessary.
Heavy Soil
If surface is dull or deeply scuffed as well as badly soiled or black heel marked the sealer finish
may have worn away. Test the floor finish depth with a coin. Stripping will be necessary if low
finish level is indicated.
How to Bring Floors to Life
Light Cutback
Use Neutraclean or Supastar diluted 1 part to 25 parts water using. Wet apply to stop the floor
drying while scrubbing. Autoscrub or machine scrub using a red or green scrubbing pad. Damp
mop rinse with cold water to remove soil slurry. Allow floor to dry thoroughly prior to dust
mopping and dry burnishing with a red or tan pad or bassine brush.
UHS machinery will require a Jackaroo or Jackaroo light pad.
Page 2 of 3
Heavy Cutback / Re-coat
Use Crusader germicidal cleaner or Crossfire cleaner degreaser applying 1 part to 25 parts water.
Use a blue or green pad and scrub the floor in a left to right ark. Wet mop rinse with cold water to
remove scrubber residue using clean water in the bucket every 20m2. Allow the floor to dry
thoroughly and dust mop prior to dry burnishing (approx 15 min) and prior to recoating as
described above.
Dry Stripping - Small Areas
To cut time in small awkward areas like Supermarket check- outs, tearooms, high density funnel
areas of traffic. Dry Stripping using Sledgehammer 1 to 10 parts cold water and brown pad. Just
spray lightly, wait 5 minutes then dry pad off. Dust mop prior coating.
Total Stripping - No Scrub Method - Larger Areas
Flood mop apply stripper with a cotton or fringe mop using Sledgehammer, 1 part to 4 parts cold
water. Allow up to 15 minutes for activation / penetration. Reapply if drying too fast. Wring out
stripping mop, mop off sealer build up into stripper solution bucket. Push the mop ferrule heavily
onto the floor to dislodge the existing finish. Particularly required for edges
(an alternative is a doodlebug & black pad). Dust mop then dry burnish the floor as described
above. When fully dry - recoat as above.
N.B
Both Sledgehammer and Steamroller are near neutral
pH. products with new technology penetrating agents
This technology provides a “No scrub” water “Rinse
free” application - a huge time and labour saver.
New Floors - Remove Factory Coating
Flood mop with Sledgehammer, 1 part to 4 parts water. Allow to penetrate the factory protective
coating. After 10 minutes mop off stripper residue with a well rung out stripping mop, there is no
need to rinse or use hot water. Machine burnish when dry with new Tan red pad (400RPM). (Use
Jackaroo pad or Jackaroo light pad if machine is 1500RPM+), or use a new or clean brush, this
helps gloss the floor and removes any adhering or seal “bits” of dirt prior to recoating.
Because of sheet vinyl’s lack of porosity and superior surface smoothness there is no need to
precoat with Bedrock sealer. Because this surface is used soft & flexible, a harder sealer finish is
necessary to reduce scuffing and help the surface resist damage. 2 or more coats of sealer finish is
recommended using either Spartacus or Glazer.
Applying 1st Coat
The polyester cotton mop should be loaded but not dripping. Apply the 1st coat evenly in a figure
eight pattern ensuring a wet edge is kept to adjoining areas. Allow a minimum 20 minutes
between coats and test for dryness prior to recoating. Depending on gloss and wear resistance 2 to
5 coats will be required. Use a drier mop on subsequent coats.
Maintenance
Using either mop / bucket or an autoscrubber a simple maintenance clean will keep the floor
looking like new. The best method for heavy traffic - Food court areas - Supermarkets etc is the
bucket wet mop & rinse system using Supastar or Neutraclean 1 - 50 or 1 - 80 (check label). Wet
mop 50m2 then using clean cold water in a 2nd bucket, damp mop rinse applying medium
pressure to the mop.
Page 3 of 3
Quick Method
Using 1 - 40 / 1 - 60 dilution damp mop in figure of eight pattern changing solution in bucket
every 30 minutes. This recommendation is for low soilage areas. The twin bucket system is
superior for the life of the floor finish.
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Page 1 of 4
LINOLEUM
FLOORCARE PROTECTION PROCEDURE
Background
Linoleum can be defined as a continuous roll flooring composed of fillers made from ground cork,
wood flour, mineral powders (such as calcium carbonate) with binders made from boiled linseed
oil, natural resins and pigments. These are mixed into a paste and compressed onto a roll of woven
hemp or canvas backing by hot rolling.
The process was developed in the Scottish town of Kirkaldy during the middle of the eighteenth
century and it is still being made in the same factories today in virtually the same way.
Resurgence of Linoleum
Linoleum has had a very strong revival in the world market over the last few years. There are a
number of reasons for this, design freedom that allows cut and patching for bold effects is one,
wearability and appearance retention is another.
With over 100 years of continued use in industry, commercial and domestic applications, linoleum
is here to stay. It has a great record of service in really tough areas like buses and trains yet it can
easily be made to look good with very simple maintenance.
Environmental Aspects
Made from renewable resources, it is a totally natural product. Linoleum is biodegradable, it does
not add to waste problems. Volatility of ingredients is extremely low and it has an extremely low
level of V.O.C’s. This ensures it does not contribute to the sick building syndrome and allergic
reactions.
Slip safety / low noise
Because of its surface resilience it has inbuilt anti-slip characteristics at the same time providing a
scuff resistant surface that is quiet to walk on.
Fire safety and static resistance
Part of linoleum’s renewed demand by architects is that it has an extremely good fire ratings, gives
off less toxic fumes when burnt or heated than most other flexible floor coverings. Another feature
is that it generates no static electricity and therefore has strong potential for use in hospitals,
electronics and circuit board manufacturers.
Page 2 of 4
Evaluation of a new surface
It is imperative that adhesive is removed from joints before it sets rock hard. Never seal in
adhesive. Use mineral turps or if necessary Grease Release or Orange Solv by wiping the adhesive
and immediately rinsing off with water. Linoleum is dissolved and damaged by strong solvents so
use extreme care and don’t leave solvents on the surface for more than 30 seconds at a time.
Prepare surface for sealing
By cutting back the factory polymer wax finish or residual resins that may have migrated to the
surface, you ensure a superior bond of the sealer system you are going to use. Slipperiness of the
surface and linseed oil odour indicates surface residues that must be removed. In no circumstances
seal the floor without at least cutting back or deep cleaning the surface. It is not necessary to totally
remove the factory finish to achieve a good bond.
Method
Dilute NEUTRACLEAN to desired strength in cold water (approx 1 to 10, not the normal 1 to 100
mix). Pre-test by applying behind a door and leaving it to stand for at least 5 minutes, then wiping
off. If no yellowing, proceed to use this solution to flood mop the floor. Allow to stand for at least 4
minutes and mop off or machine scrub with a blue or black pad.
It is preferable to rinse twice on linoleum using warm clean water.
Choosing a sealer / finish
Remember linoleum is not designed to be a wet-look glossy floor so only two coats are required.
You are sealing for protection and easy maintenance. Because it is a relatively soft surface a
harder finish is preferred to minimise scuffing. The best wear resistant sealer with a good balance
of mark resistance, soil pick up and scuff removability and price is SPARTACUS. For the best dry
and wet slip resistance and ultimate gloss Filmstar is the recommended finish.
If you have no buffing machine or you wish to have a minimal maintenance, use GLAZER, our
hardest finish. This resists scuffing and marking.
Application
Prior to applying sealer finish carefully dust mop the floor to remove lint and dust particles.
Apply two coats of sealer finish using a polycotton mop. Wring out to apply the first coat so that
the mop is not dripping. Use a figure of eight patterns so that each stroke is overlapping the
previous area. Keep a wet edge by not stopping until the first coat is applied completely. Apply
the second (and optional) third coat across the direction of the previous coats at 30 minutes
intervals or when you can walk on the floor without feeling the floor “gripping” to your shoes.
Maintenance
It is imperative that a neutral PH floor cleaner is used and that the Ph is between 5 to 8 at use
dilution. Research Products SUPASTAR or NEUTRACLEAN is recommended.
Damp Mop
This solution using cold or at most warm water at 1 to 60 parts water after sweeping or dust
mopping. Never wet mop a linoleum floor, always damp mop.
Page 3 of 4
Autoscrubbing
After dust mopping autoscrub and pick up using a tan or if extremely soiled a red pad using a 1 to
80 parts solution of SUPASTAR or NEUTRACLEAN in the machine.
Dry burnish floor when perfectly dry with a tan or red slow speed machine (350 to 450 rpm) or a
Jackaroo light, or Jackaroo high speed pad on U.H.S. (1000 to 2000 rpm machine).
Important:
Because linoleum transfers heat from the pad quickly never use champagne or white polishing pad
which are too soft for this surface and can burn it.
To increase the cycles of cutting back or major strip and seal: it is advisable to substitute the
neutral floor cleaner with a maintainer such as Shiner on a programmed basis.
Method
Dilute 1 part Shiner to 80 parts water (approx. ½ a cup per bucket). Mop floor out. Let it dry
then buff with a Tan or Red pad.
Recoating
Because you are not able to use regular full strength strippers only recoat when absolutely
necessary. Never apply sealer finishes close to edges as these areas build up too quickly. Usually
one coat is enough to provide renewed appearance every quarter.
Caution
Linoleum is prone to “burning” or browning from alkaline solvent strippers and ammoniated or
strongly alkaline cleaners.
Floor strippers must always be pre-tested, usually at more diluted levels than when used on vinyl
surfaces. We have tested SLEDGEHAMMER at 1 to 10 and found no ill effects.
Always ensure that you test a small area behind a door as all linoleums react differently.
Restoration of “yellowed” linoleum
This should be only undertaken by a floorcare professional or contact cleaning company. It is a
two-stage system where the second stage is only used if the first stage has not been as successful as
required. The second stage uses a method of increasing severity and is removing part of the
discoloured surface. Pre-test prior to using either method on an inconspicuous yellow area prior to
beginning the larger stain.
Stage I. Bleaching
Using domestic 3% bleach, dilute in 3 parts cold water (if using commercial 12% sodium
hypochlorite dilute 1 to 10 parts water). Apply by flooding the floor so that it stays wet for at least
15 minutes (place plastic sheets or thick cardboard over your track through the house). If the stains
appear to be lightening, repeat process. Double rinse with cold water when finished.
Page 4 of 4
Stage II. Bleaching and Scouring
This is a more aggressive method that is removing the top surface of the linoleum that has
yellowed as well as bleaching any penetrated subsurface stains. Apply bleach or sodium
hypochlorite as in stage I. Apply AJAX scouring powder (must be with chlorine bleach) whilst
scrubbing with a black pad. Keep heavily sprinkling AJAX into new areas, then move the machine
across the floor, then down the floor. Triple rinse the slurry residue after hand scouring the edges
where the machine can’t reach. Then dry the surface which will be slightly rougher and without
the yellowing. Apply sealer / finish as described under “Application” on page 3.
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Page 1 of 3
EPOXY COATED FLOORS
Description
Self levelling epoxy coated floors are gaining popularity in food industry and industrial sites due
to their incredible wearability and inert, non porous surface.
Epoxy Coated Floors are more easily cleaned and sanitised than porous concrete with the major
benefit of being highly chemical and abrasion resistant.
New Applications for Epoxy
Whilst architects, industrial designers, builders and office fit out companies are investigating new
textures, surfaces and colours for concrete floors in offices, restaurants, laboratories and
showrooms, self levelling epoxy floors have exploded in popularity. They can be designed to look
like wet glass or they can be made to look matt flat in many colour options.
New Maintenance Solution Required
Whilst industrial floors can be cleaned and maintained with industrial scrubbing or pressure
cleaning equipment, these smaller areas need a completely different technique.
As we have mentioned previously, there is no synthetic flooring tougher than epoxy but in these
new applications the surface has a tendency to black mark and scuff as well as transfer tyre marks
onto the surface. These can prove difficult to remove in areas like this so epoxy requires a
protective finish to protect the surface.
Protection of Epoxy Coated Floors, why is it needed?
For the ultimate protection clean, bright and a shiny appearance it is recommended to apply a
water based sealer finish to the floor to act as both a decorative stain and black mark resistant
sacrificial wear layer. This surface is much easier to repair (lowering maintenance costs) and is
easily re-coated when required. The system we recommend keeps epoxy floors looking brilliant.
Products Recommended
We recommend two products that show hight levels of adhesion that can be buffed with slow,
medium or U.H.S floor polishing equipment and provide the level of gloss, as the customer
requires.
Page 2 of 3
GLAZER
This is a high solid, urethane fortified acrylic sealer finish which has a high level of adhesion as
well as an ultra high gloss off the mop with minimal coats (2 to 3 average) required. Glazer has
very high resistance to black mark pickup.
New Floors - Preparation
In certain conditions a light oily film may be apparent on the floors after curing, it is important to
remove this film by stripping the floor. Follow instructions set out on page 3.
Existing Coated Floor Surface
Light/Dull Floor
If the surface has yellowed or soil penetration had occurred, scrubbing and buffing or re-coating
may be necessary.
Heavy Soil
If the surface is dull or ,deeply ,as well as, badly soiled or black heel marked, the sealer finish may
have worn away. Test the floor finish depth by scraping with a coin in an inconspicuous place.
Stripping will be necessary if low finish level is indicated.
Light cutback
Use Sledgehammer diluted 1 part to 25 parts water. Apply enough solution to stop the floor
drying while scrubbing. Autoscrub or machine scrub using a blue or green scrubbing pad. Damp
mop rinse with cold water to remove soil slurry. Allow floor to dry thoroughly prior and dust
mop.After dry burnished with a red or tan pad or bassine brush.
UHS machinery will require a Jackaroo or Jackaroo Light pad.
Heavy Cutback/Re-coat
Use Sledgehammer applying 1 part to 10 parts water. Use a blue or green pad and scrub the floor
in a left to right arc. Wet mop, rinse with cold water to remove scrubber residue using clean water
in a bucket every 2 square meters. Allow the floor to dry thoroughly and dust mop prior to
burnishing and prior to re-coating as described.
To cut time in small awkward areas like high density funnel areas of traffic. Dry stripping can be
an alternative using Sledgehammer 1 to 20 parts cold water and Brown pad. Just spray lightly,
wait 5 minutes then dry pad off. Dust mop prior to re-coating.
Total Stripping - “No Scrub Method” - Larger Areas
The Labour Saver
Flood mop, apply stripper with a cotton or fringe mop using Sledgehammer or our new
Steamroller II, 1 part to 4 parts cold water. Allow up to 15 minutes for activation/penetration. Reapply if drying too fast. Wring out stripping mop, mop off sealer build up into stripper solution
bucket. Push the mop ferrule heavily onto the floor to dislodge the existing finish. Particularly
required for edges ( an alternative is a doodlebug and black pad). Dust mop then dry burnish the
floor as described above. When fully dry - re-coat as above.
Page 3 of 3
NB. Sledgehammer is a product with new technology and provide a “no scrub” water “rinse free”
application - a huge time and labour saver. Steamroller II is more aggressive and alkaline and
must be rinsed.
Because Epoxy lacks porosity there is no need to pre-coat with Bedrock sealer. A harder sealer
finish such as Spartacus or Glazer is necessary to reduce scuffing and help the surface resist
damage. A minimum of three coats of sealer finish is recommended.
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Page 1 of 4
TEXTURED AND PROFILED
COMPOSITE RUBBER
FLOOR CARE PROTECTION AND MAINTENANCE PROCEDURE
Description
Textured flooring can be a blend of rubber and ground cork or rubber and inert mineral filler in
either sheet or tile form. These surfaces are softer than vinyl giving a flexible surface with good
recovery, chemical and slip resistance. They are usually chosen because of their ability to reduce
foot fatigue and to give slip resistance. The visual effect of the cork gives an eggshell textured look.
The profiled tiles appear like a “chocolate block” with raised round studs.
Resurgence of Natural Floors
There has been a big swing towards natural flooring surfaces like composite rubber due to its
freedom from chemicals and the leaching of VOC’s and plasticiser chemicals into the environment.
These chemicals have, in the past, contributed poor indoor air quality problems from vinyl and
vinyl asbestos floors. Composite rubber floors are made from renewable resources that are
environmentally sustainable and free of dangerous chemicals.
Characteristics
The high rubber content gives better untreated gloss; the low porosity gives greater chemical and
alkalinity than vinyl but less solvent resistance. However due to softness more scuffing problems
can occur and it can be difficult to buff with UHS equipment due to heat build up and is not
recommended over 1500 RPM. Without effective sealing, binding and stalling of U.H.S machinery
can occur. Choose a hard finish with good adhesion, so as to resist scuffing/marking.
New floor Conditioning
Remove any factory finishes, powder or adhesive residues by scrubbing with a blue pad for
textured or a medium poly brush in case of profiled using CROSSFIRE - diluted 1 to 25 parts
water, followed by a fresh water rinse. Failure to prepare the floor can result in poor adhesion, less
slip resistance and wear resistance of the finish coats.
Refer to applying sealer finish page 2
Existing coated floor surfaces
Light Soil/ Dull Finish
If appearance is yellow or the surface looks dirty a light cut back is all that may be required then
buff.
Page 2 of 4
Heavy Soil
If surface is dull or deeply scuffed or badly soiled and black heel marked, the sealer may have
worn away. Test the floor finish by scraping with a coin to see if finish is present. A heavy cut back
clean and recoat will be necessary if low finish level is indicated. (described below)
How to bring a floor to life
Textured Composite Rubber
Light Cut back
Use NEUTRACLEAN or SUPASTAR diluted 1 part to 25 parts water. Flood mop floor with
solution and scrub using a red pad. Rinse floor with fresh water to remove any scum or residue.
Allow floor to dry. Burnish floor either a white pad or Bassine brush or dust mop. Reapply sealer
finish as required.
Heavy Cut Back / Recoat
Use CROSSFIRE cleaner dilution one part to 25 parts water. Scrub using a blue pad or medium
polypropylene brush, then rinse floor with clean water. Allow floor to dry and burnish with a red
pad or bassine brush (400 RPM machinery). Dust mop surface before recoating as described below.
Stripping
Stripping of composite rubber flooring with heavy duty no scrub, no rinse strippers is to be
avoided due to solvents combined with alkalis attacking the surface. Black and brown pads are to
be avoided; cutting back and recoating is the recommended method.
Applying sealer finish
Because composite rubber floors lack porosity there is no need to pre-coat with sealer.
The surface being soft and flexible, a harder sealer finish with good adhesion is required
to reduce scuffing and help the surface resist damage. Two or more coats of GLAZER is
recommended.
For best results apply sealer finish with a polyester cotton mop in a figure eight pattern.
Ensure a wet edge is kept so that you don’t mop areas that are drying out. Allow at least 20
minutes to 30 minutes between coats, test for dryness prior to laying next coat. (no stickiness)
Depending on gloss required and wear resistance 2 to 4 coats may be required.
Slip resistance
Research Products have developed a new high traction wet look gloss sealer finish Filmstar.
These, when placed in our recommended maintenance programme gives dry slip results well
above the Australian Dry Slip Standard of .4 CoF and above 35 bpn wet. Check our product data
sheet and brochure for exact details.
When maintaining a floor for the best wet or dry slip resistance or both Shiner should be used as
the maintenance cleaner. Use either Neutraclean or Supastar.
Maintenance
Using SUPASTAR in either mop and bucket or auto scrubber a simple clean will keep the floor
looking like new. The best method for heavy traffic areas is to use a maintainer such as SHINER or
SUPASTAR neutral cleaner.
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Page 3 of 4
Profiled Composite Rubber
The “best” method for profiled composite tiles.
Profiled composite floors need more attention than flat surfaces. They are usually of raised round
coin sized studs that reduces the chance of slippage, compared to the regular textured composite
tile. The biggest mistake usually made in maintenance is to keep recoating the floor finish so that it
builds up between the raised studs.
If the finish is applied over dust it ends up looking extremely dirty. Because of the foot traffic
walking on only 60% of the total surface area, floor finish wear is very high. This compounds the
constant recoating problem.
Finishing the profiled composite rubber floor.
Follow previous directions in the “How to Bring a Floor to Life”. Instead of applying multiple
coats apply one or maximum of two coats of Glazer or Filmstar Sealer Finish.
Simple System gives low cost results
By simply maintaining the profiled floor with a combined cleaner and non film forming polymer
wax you can avoid many of the problems associated with polish build up and having to strip a
“difficult” surface. The recommended wash and shine product is SHINER.
Daily Maintenance
Use SHINER Total Maintainer diluted 1 to 60 parts water and either mop or scrub the floor with
this solution. Gloss will build the longer you use the systems, particularly if daily buffing is
planned.
Mopping
On this surface you really want to avoid hand mopping because of the fact that eventually dirt
residues are left behind around each raised stud, because of the greater mop drag, it is physically
harder. If mopping manually a double bucket system is recommended to reduce the chance of
soilage build up.
Auto-Scrubbing
The optimum method of having long term clean floors is to use a cylindrical contra rotation brush
machine. On small areas DUPLEX or ROTOWASH machines are ideal.
On larger areas of profiled tiles TENNANT have the same machine only larger.
On the larger equipment dilution of SHINER should be reduced up to 1 part SHINER to 100 parts
water. (500ml per 50ltr) in cold water for daily maintenance. One day per week use SUPASTAR
maintenance cleaner to prevent potential build up of wax residues.
Buffing
Buffing with floor pads is to be avoided on this floor. Use a special Bassine / Java mix for best
results or a Contour Microfibre pad for more aggressive action on scuff removal.
Cut back / Recoating
Follow instructions as on page 2. Ensure that all residue is removed from between the studs prior
to applying 1 or 2 coats of GLAZER.
Page 4 of 4
Dos and Don’ts for Rubber Composite Floors
Avoid
x The use of high solvent content cleaners or strippers on rubber composite floors. They can
permanently damage or cause colour bleeding of the surface.
x The use of floor pads on profiled rubber floors except for contour Microfibre pads.
x Laying too many coats of sealer finish on profiled rubber composite floors.
x Using high speed LP Gas equipment.
Page 1 of 3
Terrazzo &
COMPOSITE MARBLE TILES
Floorcare protection procedure
Characteristics
The hardness of marble falls approximately halfway between granite (the hardest) and limestone
(the softest). In gritty areas Composite Marble Tiles require the protection of a sacrificial, stain
resistant and highly adhesive coating system. Because of its tendency to scratch, these surfaces
require a softer coating than synthetic tiles. This allows easier repairability from scratching and
easier burnishing response. A base coat and a topcoat give the most durable result.
Evaluation of new surface
Usually at handover of a new building the builders will have employed a contractor to place a
protective finish over the surface. This is usually not a sophisticated coating system and should be
considered temporary protection and not used as the base for a long term floor. Stripping this
surface is essential for the best results.
Existing Coating Surface
Light Soil / Dull Floor
If the building has been in use for some time and the floor surface has yellowed and marked with
surface soil penetration and scuffs / stains, cutting back and recoating will be necessary to restore
that "clean clear" look to the tile.
Heavy Soil
If surface is heavily soiled or showing black heel marks and is dull, dirty and not responding to
maintenance the surface coating may have worn too badly for restoration by cutting back and
recoating. Stripping is the only alternative.
How to bring floors back to life
Light Cutback
Because Composite Tile Marble gives less adhesion than Terrazzo, a less aggressive detergent will
be required on this surface to preserve surface integrity. Use Supastar or Neutraclean or Orange
Squirt from CITRUS RESOURCES range of products. Dilute these products between 1 to 25 to 1 to
40 parts water. Wet mop apply or double Autoscrub using a red or even a blue pad. Dust mop
then dry burnish.
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Heavy Cutback / Recoat
It is unusual to heavily cut back marble due to the dangers of removing all the finish - stripping
not cutting back, is recommended. Using Orange Squirt or Crossfire Cleaner Degreaser at 1 to 25
parts water. Wet mop apply using a cotton mop or fringe mop for larger areas. Scrub or
autoscrub using a green or blue pad. Dust mop then recoat with Filmstar.
Dry Stripping - Small areas
To dramatically reduce costs of wet stripping small areas in traffic funnels - like hotel lobbies,
shopping centre entrances, try dry stripping using Sledgehammer at 1 to 10 parts water in a spray
bottle. Just lightly mist over the surface, wait 5 minutes, then dry buff off with a brown pad. Dust
mop prior to recoating - there is no need to rinse the surface.
P.S. If dry stripping it's not working you are either overwetting the floor or not waiting long
enough for the stripper to activate.
Total Stripping - Larger areas
Flood mop apply stripper with fully laden cotton or fringe mops using Steamroller II. This
stripper will remove the most resistant base sealers and finishes including most solvent based
sealer.
Dilute Steamroller II 1 to 4 parts cold water where heavy duty sealers are used and 1 to 6 if
regular sealer finishes have been used. Do not let dry.
Machine scrub with High Performance black or regular black pads if a rotary hand held scrubber is
used. Rinse floor with Neutro at 1 to 75 to remove any alkali residue.
Autoscrub method
Mix desired stripper concentration in tank. Lay solution down with Autoscrubber brushes turning
and vacuum off. Allow 10 minutes to 20 minutes to activate, double scrub and pick to waste
solution. Rinse floor with Neutraclean to remove any alkali residue. Dust mop when dry (no need
to rinse), dry burnish dust mop, then apply new sealer and finish.
New Floors - Removal of builders finish
Because builders finishes are usually a one product system our lower cost Sledgehammer diluted 1
part to 4 parts cold water should be used in place of Steamroller II.
Use method described in Total Stripping large areas.
Applying Sealer & Finish System
To gain the maximum life a system that has extremely high adhesion is required. We have
developed Blockade Sealer for Composite Marble Tiles. This is a penetrating sealer with a rubbery
toughness that resists scratch off abrasion. It also has high resistance to spills and stain
penetration. It is non yellowing even in strong U.V light. To provide surface gloss, scuff resistance
and gloss response to buffing Marbletech, Filmstar or Glazer is the recommended topcoat over
Blockade. To prolong life (every six or eight weeks) in ultra heavy traffic conditions.
Apply 2 coats of Blockade to Tiles. Marbletech, Filmstar or Glazer topcoat can be coated until the
surface gloss is high enough, usually 2 to 4 coats.
Glazer sealer finish has worked brilliantly over Blockade and gives the longest life.
Page 3 of 3
Applying Sealer
Using Polyester cotton polish mop (not fringe mop), apply a thin first coat of Blockade, waiting
until the floor is dry and does not grip your shoes. Usually 15 to 20 minutes. Second coat is slower
to dry and if humid can require up to 40 minutes dry time.
Applying Topcoats
Apply topcoat in the same manner as Blockade above with thin even coats crossing the previous
coat to give evenness. This finish glides over the floor and must be allowed between 15 to 30
minutes between coats. DO NOT APPLY over four coats of sealer & finish at the one time. Apply
further coats the second night, this will avoid powdering.
Maintenance
Using either a mop/ bucket or an Autoscrubber, a correct cleaning programme will ensure the
floor looks clean with a wet-look gloss.
Heavy Traffic Areas
Dust mop floor. Use a two bucket mopping system using Neutraclean and apply at 1 to 75 cold
water and apply this with a wet mop and rinse off with the second clean water solution after 10
minutes (dry mop). This keeps the dirt out of the floor. Dry burnish with U.H.S machine fitted
with a clean Jackaroo light pad or coconut pad for extra life.
Light Soil - Damp Mopping
Use a single bucket system and after dust mopping, use a well wrung mop using Neutraclean at
up to 1 to 120 parts cold water.
Autoscrubber
After dust mopping Autoscrub with tan or red pads (depending on soil level) using
Neutraclean at 1 to 80 parts cold water. To extend life and appearance between cut back
and recoats, use Rebound Restorer through the autoscrubber at 1 to 80 parts water once a
week instead of Neutraclean. This is particularly effective in removing "spiderwebbing"of
floor in strong sunlight. Dry burnish with U.H.S machine fitted with a clean Jackaroo light
pad or Blue Ice pad for extra life.
Dust Control - Reduce wear and prevent slip
Dust mop floor frequently to remove cutting grit during the day. Install dust mats at entrances.
Slip Testing Report - Risk Management
Independent testing has shown Research Products Filmstar has consitently met or exceeded
Autralian Standard AS/N. 24586 Dry and has had considtentl readings of above .35 when tested
by the Pendulum Method, which equates to an X rating. Copies of test are available on request.
F:\Product Info Literature\Research Products\How to manual\rp_compmarble_1002.doc
Page 1 of 4
SEMI AND FULLY VITRIFIED
TILES
FLOOR CARE PROTECTION AND MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES
Description / definition
Vitreous are hard bake tiles where the colour and texture goes completely through. There is no
surface glazing or designs on these tiles, as they are made for extreme wear and chemical
resistance. They are usually only used in commercial applications. Water permeation is usually
less than 0.5%, which makes vitrified tiles the most stain and spill resistant as well as being
suitable for both heavy traffic, internal and external building use.
Both tiles can be plain or contain flecks of hard stone or fly ash embedded into the coloured clay
matrix.
Cleaning characteristics
The cleanability or the ability to remove soilage depends upon two factors. The surface texture,
and porosity. Some designs have an embossed or contoured surface, others, usually semi vitrified
tiles are more porous and still retain microscopic particles of soil that slowly discolours. This
soilage can become extremely difficult to remove. Because of these variations, three regimes have
been described to enable you to clean or clean and protect the floor under your control.
Untreated Vitrified Tiles
We will describe a maintenance plan that removes adhering soil from the tiles. We will also
describe a proven system of removing deep seated soil and stains as a restoration clean.
Impregnating Vitrified Tiles
We describe a process that seals porous and semi vitrified tiles by the impregnation of a soil and
stain repellent below the surface. This invisible process is ideal for tiles that may have been
damaged by previous acid washing or just have a high porosity
Sealing Vitrified Tiles
A process for applying and maintaining vitrified tiles with a surface coating that repels soil,
provides a more decorative gloss finish that is acting as slip resistant sacrificial wear layer.
Page 2 of 4
1. Cleaning and Maintaining Untreated Vitrified tiles
Surface restoration- How to bring your floor back to life
Restoration is only required if the surface is heavily soiled with a hard, if not impossible to remove
soil, using conventional cleaning products. The soil may include greasy food deposits or even
mineral oils. It will not remove deep seated rust stains,only surface rust. The method is not
destructive (non-acid) using a powerful alkaline cleaner, therefore requires safety gloves and
rubber boots to be worn.
Auto scrubbing- Restoration
Apply a cold or hot solution of PUNCH Heavy Duty tile cleaner at 1 to 10 parts water via auto
scrubber or by flood mopping. Via the autoscrubber apply as you scrub, leaving the solution valve
fully open with squeegee up.
Allow this solution to activate and only cover enough area so that the solution does not dry out,
the longer you leave this solution, the better it will clean.
The scrubbing should take place slowly whilst picking up the slurry. White soft nylon or medium
weight Tynex fibre bristles are best. Also softer green or blue pads. Both these work better at
getting into the pores of the tile where the dirt is located.
It is important to clean water scrub and rinse to remove all residues and alkalinity.
Mop scrub method- Restoration
Apply a 1 to 10 restoration solution by flood mopping with a fully loaded poly cotton mop. Allow
to activate for as long as possible without drying. Scrub the floor with a polisher fitted with blue or
green pads or a soft nylon (white) brush. Softer pads and brushes lift out soil better and harder.
Wet pick up with a wet dry vacuum or pick up slurry with a mop. Rinse the floor with clean hot
water to remove residues.
IMPORTANT- floors can become slippery when using PUNCH. Put down wet floor signs and
wear non-slip boots. Keep PUNCH solutions away from aluminium or brass.
Maintenance Cleaning
For maximum performance and freedom from potentially slippery residues, use the lowest level of
cleaning products that does the job.
Auto Scrubbing- Use ORANGE SQUIRT at 1 to 20 parts water (400ml per 50ltr) is a good starting
point dilution. This product has excellent soil removing power at low cost dilution. Research
Products NEUTRACLEAN can also provide a very low slip surface when used at 1 to 100 parts
water. REBOUND may be used as an autoscrub cleaner once per week to increase slip resistance (1
to 80 parts water). Then burnished with UHS equipment. Slow speed buffing does not activate the
slip resistance.
Dry Burnishing - Some vitrified tiles leaves streaks and show surface dullness after cleaning and
requires U.H.S dry burnishing with a clean Jackaroo or Buckaroo pad, this is particularly
important on the day the REBOUND restorer is used through the auto scrubber. Spray buffing can
also be accomplished to increase slip resistance (1 to 25 with water). Only use UHS buffing
equipment.
2. Impregnating Vitrified TilesTo assist in keeping porous Vitrified tiles clean, the application of a penetrating subsurface sealer
is recommended.
Page 3 of 4
Maintenance Cleaning
Interior
Follow the directions in the previous section using ORANGE SQUIRT or NEUTRACLEAN as the
recommended detergent.
Exterior
Because oily soils can’t penetrate and normal grime finds it hard to stick to this surface, hosing will
remove most of the soil with an occasional scrub with ORANGE SQUIRT (1to 100 parts water)
cleaner followed by a hose rinse or wet pick up will give an excellent result.
3. Sealing Vitrified Tiles
The surface sealing of vitrified and semi vitrified tiles is a process that has become popular in the
U.S.A, where it was found that surfaces could be cleaned more easily with an increase in slip
resistance over the original surface with a deeper and more appealing gloss.
The key to successfully sealing these surfaces is to achieve high adhesion. Most floor finishes today
don’t have enough adhesive power and scrape off rapidly and don’t provide long term
performance. Research Products have developed a sealer that provides high levels of adhesion,
BLOCKADE.
The application of a topcoat over the base sealer increases gloss and allows the surface to be
burnished and repaired more easily.
The Process directions
First pre clean or restore
If the surface is heavily soiled restore the surface as described in section 1 using PUNCH and
thoroughly rinse the surface to remove alkaline residues.
Application of Sealer
For the best results apply BLOCKADE with a medium loaded polyester cotton mop and apply as
to allow penetration of this first coat into the grouting. BLOCKADE should be left to dry for at
least 30 minutes prior to the application of the second coat. The second coat should be slightly
thinner than the first coat. If your first coat is not completely dry your second coat can “pull up”
your first coat and ruin your application.
Top Coating with Floor Polish
Using the same prewashed polycotton mop apply the first coat of GLAZER, SPARTACUS, or
MARBLETECH as the maintainable layer. Apply thin coats in a figure of eight pattern so that you
keep a wet edge and apply the second coat (after 20 minutes) across the direction of the previous
coat.
Page 4 of 4
Maintenance
Auto scrub or damp mop with NEUTRACLEAN or ORANGE SQUIRT to remove surface soiling.
If mopping, use a double bucket system. This will keep the surface cleaner, longer.
1 part to 100 parts water for shopping malls. (500ml to 50ltr)
Dilutions-Autoscrubber
1 to 80 for supermarket floors. (600ml to 50Ltr)
Dilutions-Hand Mopping 1 to 80 parts water for shopping malls. (120mls to 10ltr)
1 to 60 parts water for supermarket floors. (180mls to 10ltr)
Burnishing
To build the best looking floor using U.H.S equipment, unless the floor has tile lippage that shows
up as a dark or dirty edge on the tile. If lippage is prevalent then use 400 RPM equipment and a
clean bassine brush rather than a floor pad.
If using Brushes
- Bassine in both U.H.S and 400 RPM equipment.
If using Pads - U.H.S use beige, champagne or better. Scruff removal use Jackaroo light.
- Don’t use hard pads.
- On regular speed machines - use tan pads where scuffing is light, red pads
only when required to remove scuffs and scratches.
F:\Product Info Literature\Research Products\How to manual\rp_vitrifiedtiles_1002.doc
Page 1 of 4
ELASTOMERIC POLYESTER
Description
Self levelling and sprayed or flow coated floors are gaining popularity in food industry, club &
hotel behind the bar applications and industrial sites, due to their incredible toughness and
wearability. Elastomeric polyester provides the industry with a lower cost surface than epoxy yet
still provides an inert, non porous thick film that hides surface irregularities and resists water, oily
and alcohol based spills.
Elastomeric Polyester Coated Floors are more easily cleaned and sanitised than porous concrete
with the major benefit of being highly chemical and abrasion resistant as well as offering a quieter,
softer more comfortable surface to stand on.
New Applications for Elastomeric films
Whilst architects, industrial designers, builders and office fit out companies are investigating new
textures, surfaces and colours for concrete floors in offices, restaurants, laboratories, hotels
showrooms, textured spray on floors have exploded in popularity. The textured gloss appearance
not only looks good, the raised cross section improves water drainage and helps improve wet-slip
resistance in wet area use.
New Maintenance Solution Required
Whilst industrial floors can be cleaned and maintained with industrial scrubbing or pressure
cleaning equipment, smaller areas need a completely different technique.
As we have mentioned previously, there is only one synthetic flooring tougher than an elastomeric
polyester floor. In these new applications the surface has a tendency to black mark and scuff as
well as transfer tyre marks onto the surface. These can prove difficult to remove. The polyester
requires a protective finish to act as a sacrificial coating to protect the surface.
Page 2 of 4
Protection of Elastomeric Polyester Coated Floors, why is it needed?
For the ultimate protection clean and a bright and a shiny appearance, it is recommended to apply
a water based sealer finish to the floor to act as both a decorative stain and black mark resistant
sacrificial wear layer. This surface is much easier to repair (lowering maintenance costs) and is
easily re-coated when required. The system we recommend keeps elastomeric polyester floors
looking brilliant in areas where high levels of appearance are important.
Products Recommended
We recommend two products that show high levels of adhesion and levels of slip resistance that
can be buffed with slow, medium or U.H.S floor polishing equipment and provide the level of
gloss the customer requires.
GLAZER
This is a high solid, urethane fortified acrylic sealer finish which has a high level of adhesion as
well as an ultra high gloss off the mop with minimal coats (2 to 3 average) required. Glazer has
very high resistance to black mark pickup and is the toughest product in our range.
For increase slip resistance we recommend the use of FILMSTAR high traction sealer finish. It also
has a secondary advantage in that it has the highest buffed gloss.
New Floors - Preparation
In certain conditions a light oily film may be apparent on the floors after curing, it is important to
remove this film by stripping the floor. Follow instructions set out below.
Direction for new floor
New floors can tend to have a oily film present after curing it is imperative to remove this prior to
coating.
Wash floor with CROSSFIRE at 1 part CROSSFIRE to 50 parts water.
Rinse floor with NEUTRO at 1 part NEUTRO to 100 parts water to neutralise any alkalinity.
Let floor dry and buff or burnish with a red pad or Bassine brush.
Apply 3-5 coats of GLAZER or FILMSTAR sealer finish.
Existing Top Coated Floor Surface
Light/Dull Floor
If the surface has yellowed or soil penetration had occurred, scrubbing and buffing or re-coating
may be necessary.
Heavy Soil
If the surface is dull or, deeply scratched, as well as badly soiled or black heel marked, the sealer
finish may have worn away. Test the floor finish depth by scraping with a coin in an
inconspicuous place. Stripping will be necessary if coating in breaking up or patchy & worn.
F:\Product Info Literature\Research Products\How to manual\rp_elastomericpolyester_1002.doc
Page 3 of 4
Light cutback
Use Sledgehammer diluted 1 part to 25 parts water. Apply enough solution to stop the floor
drying while scrubbing. Autoscrub or machine scrub using a blue or green scrubbing pad if
surface use is uneven use a polypropylene brush. Damp mop rinse with cold water to remove soil
slurry. Allow floor to dry thoroughly prior and dust mop. After dry, burnish with a red or tan pad
if surface is smooth. If textured use a bassine brush.
Heavy Cutback/Re-coat
Use Sledgehammer or Steamroller II applying 1 part to 10 parts water. Use a blue or green pad and
scrub the floor in a left to right arc. If surface is heavily textured you will require a black
polypropylene brush to remove buildup below the surface. Wet mop, rinse with cold water to
remove scrubber residue using clean water in a bucket every 20 square meters. Allow the floor to
dry thoroughly and dust mop or vacuum prior to burnishing and prior to re-coating as described.
To cut time in small awkward areas like high density funnel areas of traffic. Dry stripping can be
an alternative using Sledgehammer 1 to 10 parts cold water and brown pad. Just spray lightly, wait
5 minutes then dry pad off. Dust mop prior to re-coating.
Total Stripping - “No Scrub Method” - Larger Areas
The Labour Saver
Flood mop, apply stripper with a cotton or fringe mop using Sledgehammer or our new
Steamroller II, 1 part to 4 parts cold water. Allow up to 15 minutes for activation/penetration. Reapply if drying too fast. Wring out stripping mop, mop off sealer build up and transfer into
stripper solution bucket. Push the mop ferrule heavily onto the floor to dislodge the existing finish.
Particularly required for edges ( an alternative is a doodlebug and black pad). Dust mop then dry
burnish the floor as described above. When fully dry - re-coat as above.
NB. Sledgehammer is a product with new technology and provides a “no scrub” water “rinse
free” application - a huge time and labour saver. Steamroller II is more aggressive and alkaline
and must be rinsed and neutralised with Neutro. Both these strippers will remove heavy buildup.
STEAMROLLER II being the most aggressive.
Because polyester is not porous there is no need to pre-coat with a sealer. A harder sealer finish
such as Glazer or Filmstar is all that is necessary to reduce scuffing and help the surface resist
damage. A minimum of three coats of sealer finish is recommended. Filmstar is recommended if
the highest level of slip resistance is required.
Maintenance cleaning after sealing
Use Neutraclean neutral floor maintainer as your regular damp mopping solution or in your
Page 4 of 4
automatic scrubber. This medium low foam cleaner leaves a sparkling finish on your floors and
prepares the floor for burnishing with either regular speed (400 RPM) or ultra high speed (1500+)
machinery.
Dilutions: For normal mopping, and damp mopping 1 part Neutraclean to 80 parts water.
Automatic Scrubbing: 1 part Neutraclean to 100 parts water
Textured Floors:
With standard speed buffing equipment a bassine brush is all that is required to remove minor
marks and scratches and rebuild gloss.
It is not recommended to use equipment over 1500 R.P.M on this type of floor surface.
Page 1 of 4
DAYLIGHT EXPRESS
THE ONE DAY START TO FINISH THE JOB.
WATER BASED, SUPER GLOSS, PERMASEAL FOR TIMBER FLOORS
A new concept for better results, higher productivity, greater safety.
This is the first, sand in the morning, three coats in one day single pack, safe, water based ultra
gloss timber finish that your customer can walk on the same night. Sounds impossible, Daylight
Express can do it.
DAYLIGHT EXPRESS is super fast drying, with 50 minutes between coats (tack free in 30
minutes). This new technology doesn’t normally require sanding between coats! You may only
need to pad back with the new wine coloured smoothing pad after the first coat on open grained
timber. Just think, one product from top to bottom 3 or maximum 4 coats and you’ve finished the
job in one day.
The best thing is your customers can walk on the floor (with socks on the first night in 4 hours)
fully cured to walk on and move furniture back in 24 - 48 hours. Nobody else can give you this
technology to improve productivity and give a superb glossy result every time.
Where does the technology come from?
Research Products one of the leaders in the development of sealers and finishes for terrazzo, stone
and vinyl floors. Our sealers and finishes have enabled reduced labour costs and improved
appearance in supermarkets and shopping centres throughout Australia and overseas. We’ve now
applied the very same innovative principles, honed in the tough and competitive retail market,
towards the timber floor sealing technology and maintenance market. The idea is to reduce
complexity, time wasting and the dangers of using toxic solvent and dangerous two pack water
and solvent based floor sealers that take days to finish the job. We’ve brought the timber floor
industry to the 21st Century!
We’ve cut the time, the materials, and the machinery; so you can finish the job fast and virtually
double the number of jobs you can finish every week. Rain, hail or shine. Just think what this will
do to your income and cash flow.
The Technology
Why water base?
Water based products in the market have their roots in Europe and are invariably thick and
difficult to apply with rollers or lambs wool applicators. They also required a separate sanding
sealer. In Australian weather, especially hot weather, it is very difficult to get even penetration
using a roller without orange peel effect in the final coat. Has it happened to you?
Page 2 of 4
New Innovation – we’ve made changes.
What we’ve done is removed the sanding sealer altogether because there is no need to sand
between coats. Why? DAYLIGHT EXPRESS goes on more evenly with a lamb’s wool applicator
with less raised grain. You may only need new GLOMESH, a “wine colour” smoothing floor pad,
not a sandscreen disc to level after the first coat. If you prefer sand screens go right ahead we
suggest the new 220 grit from Pall Mall/Glit Glomesh.
Side bond panelling
You will never have side bonding that causes panelling like other solvent based sealers, these can
split and peel back only weeks after you lay the seal. Because our thinner viscosity allows more
flow, seal goes between the joint, not over it. The other benefit is that you only require three or at
the most four coats for the best looking gloss depth and grain fill.
Gloss and Colour Change
Normally, water based finishes, both single pack and two pack are much lower in gloss than
O.M.U and two pack solvent finishes. We defy you to tell the difference in appearance between
DAYLIGHT EXPRESS and the shiniest of solvent based product. It also has a brilliant clarity and
keeps blond timbers looking incredibly pale. Your customers don’t want their floors to yellow,
ours stay pale.
Hardness versus Safety
Yes, we are slightly softer in hardness than a two pack urethane, about the same as a single pack.
Our floors on the other hand give much higher grip and safety under foot, so important in a
volleyball, squash, netball or basketball court. Our concept is to buff out marks and scuffs in the
regular clean and buff maintenance process or to topcoat with a maintenance finish Research
Products GLAZER. You can’t buff out marks or scuffs in a two pack solvent finish.
Advantages in a Nutshell
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Non hazardous, non toxic, no odour, no two pot mixing.
Sand and three coat finish in the one day.
Complete up to 50% more jobs in a week. That’s at least 50% more income.
Customers can walk on same night.
No pre-sealer or sanding sealer required one product top to bottom.
No sanding between coats as grain not raised after the first coat, use only wine coloured
pad.
Touch dry in 30 minutes, recoat in 50.
Fast cure (24hr) so the furniture move back is fast.
Ultra tough, high film build, flexible, abrasion resistant film.
Non-yellowing ultra clear– no O.M.U honey colour.
Applies easily like a solvent sealer, with out side bonding or panelling.
Dries with all the brilliant gloss of a solvent sealer, without the toxic solvent.
Easy to repair and touch up if necessary, no adhesion problems.
Easy clean up, no solvents required, just wash lambs wool applicator with water.
No smells in the house, no strong or dangerous chemicals.
Directions
Equipment:
No need to switch back to rollers, your lambswool works brilliantly because it is faster and levels
without bubbles or fisheyes. Long nap rollers (10mm) are also satisfactory if you want to use them
use a 5mm roller on oily or resinous timber like turpentine. A paint edger pad or small lambswool
Page 3 of 4
pad can be used to cut-in skirting boards.
Timber Preparation
We have made a change over current technology, now it’s your turn to upgrade your technique
and perhaps your equipment to obtain the finest result.
Obviously the finer the sanding finish the less chance of imperfections and the less chance of
raised grain after the first coat. It is important to try for the finest sand, particularly on softwoods
where you want the lightest colour. We promote the use of variable speed rotary finishing
equipment like the Klindex Rotary Ventura or Planetario planetary action sander with vac. It has
the ability to run slow on heavy cuts to remove swirls (120 - 150 grit) plus the ability to go up in
speed for finer finishing using the latest 220 now on the market. Have you tried them?
Dust removal Prior to Finishing
This is extremely important, you must have a high suction, high filtration vacuum cleaner fitted
with a brush head. It is imperative to vacuum carefully above the floor, ledges, blinds, radiators,
skirtings then finally the floor itself, running down the timber joints.
We would rather you vacuum than use a tack rag because it’s faster and it removes dust from
between the joints.
Finishing
First Coat
This is the most important and it should be applied quite heavily so that you can just see white
sealer appearing as you lay. You will be able to work faster with this finish and still be able to
“touch up” missed areas. Don’t overwork particularly on the first coat as levelling can be affected
on larger areas. Work slightly ahead on edges as normal then fill in or use a second person to work
ahead.
50 minutes later on first coat
When dry inspect for raised grain. Lightly buff the floor with the new Glomesh Wine colour
smoothing pad. This will remove lint, fluff, dust specs, and even raised grain if any. It doesn’t
remove finish.
Second and subsequent coats
Vacuum carefully and recoat again with at least 50 minutes between coats. Gloss will build on the
final coat.
Note: Some timbers (like turpentine, Tassie oak) will not seal perfectly with three coats. Add a
fourth coat only to these timbers or in extreme heavy traffic areas.
Coverage
First coat average 10-15 square meters per litre. Second and further coats 15-25 square meters per
litre.
After care of new floor
Research Products provide literature for after care of these floors. We also provide cleaning
products that help prevent soil build-up or slippery floors to develop.
A gloss revitalizing and scratch repairing topcoat – GLAZER is also available to keep the floor in
tip top appearance for years ahead.
Page 4 of 4
Environmental and Safety Policy
DAYLIGHT EXPRESS is NON TOXIC and contains no Toluene Isocyanate or Aziridine. It contains
no known asthma triggers and is odourless and fume free in use.
Toxic Properties of Solvent Based and Two Pack Timber Finishes
We want to make all floor sanders and finishers aware of the dangers of OMU single pack and all
solvent or water based two pack finishes. There must be a concentrated effort by manufacturers to
develop safer and more user friendly sealers that don’t leach irritants or toxins into the
environment.
DAYLIGHT EXPRESS is possibly the safest new technology timber sealing product available in the
Australian industry. We hope you support our efforts to improve your safety and the long term
health of you and your customers.
Shelf Life
We supply Daylight Express in screw cap 5L and 15L plastic containers to minimise the formation
of a skin like film on the surface, or sides of the container as well as to preserve shelf life. We don’t
recommend that you return unused floor seal to the original container unless it is impeccably
clean. This could ruin the complete drum of product.
Normal shelf life for Daylight Express is 12 months. If you are concerned, phone us, giving batch
number details, this is found on the label.
Other Innovations that will Work of YOU
New product to look for and try out. All these products work toward you achieving a faster or
superior result with DAYLIGHT EXPRESS.
Planetary Action Sander – Klindex Planetario
Variable Speed Rotary Sander – Klindex Venture
GLOMESH Sandscreen Driver – New white thin, sticky drive pad holder for sandscreen discs.
GLOMESH Sandscreen Discs – New binder gives improved life with less glazing. Enables finer
grit to be used on final finishing from 180 to 220 and 300.
GLOMESH Wine colour smoothing pad – Removes lint dust hair and even raised grain without
cutting back film thickness. Ideal after the first coat of DAYLIGHT EXPRESS.
©Copyright. Wedina Holdings Pty. Ltd. November 2002.
F:\Product Info Literature\Research Products\Hard Floors\Sealer Finishes\rp_daylightexpress_1002.doc
Page 1 of 3
TUNG OIL SEAL
NATURAL SEALER FOR TIMBER FLOORS
With over 95% natural ingredients.
What is Tung Oil?
Tung oil is produced by crushing and extracting the oil from the dried nuts of the Chinese Tung
tree. The benefits of Tung oil were discovered by the Chinese who used it to waterproof, protect,
and enhance the appearance of timber ships and furniture as early as the 14th century.
In our opinion pure Tung oil based timber sealer is the preferred method of adding richness and
warm colours to older timber floors. Tung oil does not hide natural imperfections and age old
marks. It enhances the "patina" of the timber.
Most Tung oil sealers on the Australian market are modified with either urethane resins or
varnish. These are said to "improve" the product. It is our opinion that this is not necessarily
correct. "Modified" Tung oil seals may cause raised grain even delamination on some timbers and
are not as flexible nor do they feed the wood as does the natural product.
Research Products Tung Oil Seal
It is made from pure, natural tung oil without modifying resins. The only modification to the
formulation is the addition of natural pine based turpentine to thin the oil to enhance and
maximise penetration and workability. Synthetic driers are also added to shorten the drying and
curing time.
The results, when applied, are superb, with a tough, flexible, water and alcohol resistant coating
that penetrates deep into the timbers cellular structure to enhance grain appearance, richness and
natural gloss of the particular flooring being treated.
With age, Tung oil seal darkens giving an antique, older appearance which suits both older homes
as well as modern.
Versatile Tung Oil Seal - with 4 systems to choose from.
Tung Oil Seal is extremely versatile as it can be maintained and treated in four distinct and easy
ways. They are:-
I. Tung oil only
III. Tung oil & floor polish (water based)
II. Tung oil plus solvent wax finish IV. Tung oil & Daylight Express
Page 2 of 3
System I - Tung Oil only
Total tung oil system is where tung oil is used as the main sealant as well as the recoating medium
when the floor becomes worn and dry looking. Because Tung Oil Seal is so elastic and has great
penetration power, occasional recoating will restore the natural beauty of the timber. The
preparation of a light damp mop with SUPASTAR water based cleaner, is usually the only
preparation required. Regular dry buffing keeps the low to medium gloss looking good.
If the floor is marked, a simple cut back with a wine coloured smoothing pad for heavily worn or
scratched floors, a light cut back with a 220 grit sand screen is all that is required prior to recoating
with two coats of Tung Oil Seal. What could be simpler!
System II - Tung Oil and SAFESTEP wax finish
Because natural Tung Oil is not a grain filling finish on open hardwoods, you have a grain that
shows, rather than a perfectly smooth and even result. (These are called pores.) Whilst you might
achieve a non grain appearance on non-pored softwoods such as King William pine, Cypress &
Baltic species you will need to use a wax finish on most other timbers to achieve a high gloss and
ultra smooth finish. The use of traditional wax over Tung oil has been in use over the last 200
years.
Finishing with a wax gives other advantages:-
Wax finishing offers a much higher gloss that can be buffed easily with a polishing
machines to remove scuffs and scratches.
Waxes penetrate along with the tung oil to provide a replacement to lost lignin or moisture
that dries out of the timber. It feeds the timber to act as a preservative and grain filler.
Waxes create a more slip resistant surface than Tung Oil on its own and don't have that
dried out appearance if recoated infrequently.
Waxes build upon the warm appearance gained by the use of Tung Oil Seals.
Waxes create a patina that enhances appearance and in the case of solvent or spirit based
waxes prevent the grain from being raised when damp mopping is used to clean the
surface. Solvent damp mopping (dry cleaning) is the best and easiest method of surface of
restoration or deep cleaning. This would only be required every five years, so it proves the
low cost of maintenance of the wax system.
System III - Tung oil seal and water based polish
This is one of the simplest methods of keeping a timber floor looking good at low maintenance
cost. Just treat it like you would a supermarket floor. It provides a more scratch and mark
resistant finish to the SAFESTEP wax finish.
Tung oil seal in this case, as normal, becomes the penetrating seal with tough water based finishes
like GLAZER or FILMSTAR being used as the top coat and restorable finish. Even ultra high
speed burnishing equipment can be used to build a wet look gloss or alternately standard speed
polishing machinery can be used over SUPAGLOSS or SPARTACUS sealer finishes.
It’s a simple method, used generally in commercial sites rather than domestic applications.
Maintenance is simple. Just damp mop with NEUTRACLEAN or SUPASTAR neutral cleaners.
Page 3 of 3
System IV - Tung Oil and water based sealer Daylight Experss.
This is possibly the best combination of old and new technology in harmony, with the best results
of all the four systems.
Using Tung Oil Seal first, to deeply penetrate the timber and enhance the natural grain colours (1
or 2 coats) followed by up to two or three coats of DAYLIGHT EXPRESS, to create the ultra clear
and glossy water based wear layer that will hardly need any maintenance.
This last method provides the industry with the combination of unique colour clarity plus
unquestionable superiority in wear resistance, gloss and long term appearance that DAYLIGHT
EXPRESS brings to the floor.
The system is particularly successful in older styled homes or establishments where the antique
look of Tung Oil Seal can be combined with a much lower level of maintenance required by
DAYLIGHT EXPRESS.
Application - there is only one change to the normally fast application of DAYLIGHT EXPRESS. It
will require waiting between 4 and 24 hours for the Tung Oil to dry prior to application.
Application of Tung Oil
It is best to use a lambswool applicator dipped into a flat tray with the excess squeezed out. On
certain timbers (no pore timbers like the pinus family) it is sometimes an advantage to add
turpentine or white spirit to aid penetration and to assist drying. No more than 5% is required.
Normal application is 2 coats unless System I is being used (Tung Oil only) three coats are usually
requited on porous hard woods.
As mentioned previously because our Tung Oil Seal is not modified there is normally minimal
grain raised. All that will be required is a padding back with a Wine coloured smoothing pad
prior to the final coat.
If sanding is required to remove grain, use the finest grade possible (we recommend 220 grit sand
screens) and only sand after the first coat.
Drying: Normally first coat: 2-4 hours
Second coat: up to four hours
Third coat: overnight
Traffic: Do not expose Tung Oil Seal to heavy traffic for 48 hours after application unless top
coating system 2,3 & 4.
Maintenance
Extra damp mopping using either NEUTRACLEAN or SUPASTAR diluted 1 to 80 is the normal
cleaning solution requirement.
©Copyright. Wedina Holdings Pty. Ltd. August 2003.
F:\Product Info Literature\Research Products\Hard Floors\Sealer Finishes\rp_tungoilseal_1503.doc
Page 1 of 3
SAFESTEP
CRÈME LIQUID SPIRIT WAX FOR TIMBER FLOORS
ENHANCES THE NATURAL LOOK OF TIMBER.
“FILLS AND FEEDS THE GRAIN”
Product background
Spirit based paste or liquid waxes have been used to protect, enhance and beautify timber floors
for hundreds of years. Originally soft beeswax was applied and polished by hand to bring out the
natural lustre over floors that were pre-sealed with Tung oil. With the advent of polishing
machines in the 1920’s, harder, more durable synthetic waxes were added to provide more water
resistance and were more easily cleaned with water based cleaners.
Spirit waxes virtually disappeared from use when clear alkyd and urethane sealers appeared in the
market in the fifty’s and sixty’s. Due to the low maintenance and gloss of these finishes they have
dominated the timber floor market. Only dance floors and halls taking advantage of the easy
repairability and “slip control” allowed by the spirit wax system.
Old is new again
Since the mid 90’s when timber flooring really “took off” in the marketplace wax finishing has
grown immensely in popularity, particularly in older buildings where originality and “antique”
appearance really looks superb. Traditionally Tung oil is used to penetrate, seal and waterproof
the floor with spirit wax filling the grain on hardwoods and providing lustre and smooth, even ,
easily maintained appearance on all solid timber floors.
Safestep product description/advantages
Safestep is a modern adaptation of the traditional spirit wax finish. It combines soft
synthetic waxes for easy scratch mark removal by buffing plus harder waxes that improve
detergent spill resistance and gloss.
Thixotropic formulation allows the product to be significantly thinned by shaking the
container. This thinning effect can provide the user with a more easy spread, with only
minimal amounts of turpentine or white spirit additions for mop application in Winter. In
summer, normally the addition of solvent is not required.
Two coats application over Tung oil is normally all that is required to fill grain and build a
warm even gloss.
Easily adjusted for slip resistance. For dance floors you require minimal film thickness
(less wax). This gives a faster finish. Thicker applications give less gloss and greater slip
resistance in walkways and flooring not used as a dance floor. It’s totally opposite to what
you would expect.
Page 2 of 3
New floors preparation & application
Sanding with a sandscreen disc to a fine finish (180 to 220 grit) ensures the floor has minimal
raised grain. A slow speed machine is ideal for fine sanding.
Apply two coats of Tung Oil Seal after all dust is carefully vacuumed away. Tung oil impregnates
deep into the timber to help waterproof and provide a flexible sealant. Apply the first coat
liberally with a lambs wool applicator (refer to Research Products Tung Oil Seal datasheet).
Under normal drying conditions Tung Oil Seal will be dry enough to apply the second coat within
2 to 3 hours. Prior to second coat of Tung oil, smooth any raised grain with a wine coloured
smoothing pad (de nibbing pad) and vacuum thoroughly.
Application of Safestep 1st coat
Because Tung Oil Seal is a spirit based product, it may be coated with a spirit based wax much
sooner than a water based finish. It is not necessary for the Research Products Tung oil to fully
cure unlike other brands of tung oil that contain modifying resins.
Shake container to reduce viscosity or alternately sit the container in very hot water to liquefy and
allow easy spreadability. Use a clean dry mop to apply the first coat across the direction of the
grain using the ferrule to push the finish onto the floor in a tight figure of eight pattern. Apply
completely to edges and allow to touch dry in 20 to 30 minutes, depending on thickness of the
coat.
Second coat
Use the same method to apply the second coat, this time apply down the grain (in the same
direction as the planks). Keep the second coat away from the skirting board by 200 mm to prevent
edge buildup.
Allow to dry thoroughly and buff the floor using a 300-400 RPM buffer and a tan or white soft pad
to build gloss and smooth out the finish. If the floor is still hungry looking, a third coat may be
required. A third coat may also be required if a slower, more slip resistant floor is required.
Regular maintenance
Normal maintenance of a Safestep coated floor is to use the hot damp mop method weekly with a
daily burnishing and dust mopping to remove harmful grit from the surface.
Normally very soft floor pads are used as these remove marks and scuffs easily (tan or white). If
brushes are used an older bassine brush that has had prior use and is clean, gives the best result.
A JAVA/Bassine blend brush offers the best results overall and cleans the surface as well as
removing marks and scuffs.
Hot damp mopping with a neutral cleaner like Neutraclean or Supastar diluted 1 part to 80 parts
water is normally enough to remove surface soilage.
Warning
Do not at anytime wet mop (flood mop) the floor as this can cause water marking and
whitening of the wax finish.
Page 3 of 3
Recoating
If floor is clean but showing traffic lane wear or is dry in appearance a single coat can be applied
after cutting back with a red pad. Apply exactly as described above in 1st coat application.
Deep cleaning/restoration
If the floor has darkened with bound-in dirt in the wax film it is time to restore the surface with a
deep clean.
This is a very simple process where Safestep is diluted with mineral turps by about 30% and
applied with a clean mop and heavily rubbed over the surface. A two bucket system must be used
for this process as you are effectively removing the dirt and squeezing it into the second bucket.
Change the wax/turps mix if it becomes heavily soiled and this is required when you see the dirt
being redeposited or if the floor becomes streaky.
Apply a second coat after buffing the first coat with a red pad whilst still slightly damp. (Usually
within 15 minutes of cleaning) The red pad will remove any residual soil not removed by the
mop.
A second coat may be required to build gloss and fill the grain with protective Safestep wax.
Stripping a Safestep floor
This is normally never required and is only used if you are changing to a water based timber sealer
(Daylight Express) or a water based floor polish (Glazer, Filmstar or Supagloss). To remove a wax
double bucket mop with pure turps or white spirit. Ensure you change your 1st turps bucket
frequently to ensure no carry over wax. Check the floor (in a small area) for compatibility or
“pulling” prior to applying with the new finish when the floor is totally dry. If pulling occurs you
will require a second turps strip.
©Copyright. Wedina Holdings Pty. Ltd. August 2003.
F:\Product Info Literature\Research Products\Hard Floors\Sealer Finishes\rp_SafeStep_0903.doc
Page 1 of 3
FLOATING FLOORS
NATURAL TIMBER AND “TIMBER LOOK” LAMINATED PLANKS
FLOOR CARE PROTECTION AND MAINTENANCE PROCEDURE
Description / Definition
Timber Floating Floor:
Primarily of timber “planks” treated with a clear layer of polyester, vinyl or urethane. Usually they
are laminated to give increased dimensional stability but this is not always the case as some
synthetic materials can also be sandwiched to provide greater noise suppression. The word
“floating” is used because some planks are clipped together and are not glued to the subsurface.
They are an engineered product in the true sense of the word, using modern technology.
Laminate Floating Floors:
These are 100% synthetic reproduction of a timber floor. The “timber plank” look is achieved by
printing, encased in a textured clear surface treatment. Whilst still laminated to achieve direction
stability, laminate floating floors can be constructed with a soft core that gives a soft feel and a low
noise. Laminate floors can be supplied in a clip lock “plank” style usually not edge glued or “butt
joint” plank style that is fully glued to the sub floor like any normal vinyl floor installation.
Because of its great impact and scratch resistant to sharp objects, chair legs and high-heeled shoes,
laminate floors have had remarkable market growth in commercial applications. Due to the timber
design being printed, there is far less chance of fading and yellowing, as can be the case with
timber laminates.
*Note timber look sheet vinyl:
This is not a floating floor, as it is supplied in 3 meter wide rolls not planks. It should be treated in
the same manner as a floating floor or sheet vinyl. (see “How to” manual for sheet vinyl).
Protection of the surface
With clear finishes being applied at the factory, in one sense the surface of floating floors have
been protected. This surface is fine for low traffic or domestic applications.
Commercial high traffic installations require an aftermarket floor coating that strongly adheres to
the surface to act as a sacrificial wear laver that adds further protection that may easily repaired
and recoated
Page 2 of 3
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
Provide high surface adhesion that does not “ball up” or scratch off.
Reduces heat build up when burnished with UHS and gas burnishers that could interfere with
the laminate or flooring adhesive integrity.
Be hard enough to resist surface scuffing, yet soft enough to give easy mark removability.
Look natural on the floor with no yellowing or ultra glossy appearance
Help prevent moisture penetration into butt joints
Provide a one product system to make it simpler to use.
Be maintainable with low (400 RPM) high (1000 RPM) and ultra high speed buffing equipment
to 2000 RPM.
High level of slip resistance to exceed Australian standard AS/NZS4586:1999.
Preparing a New Floor
It is important to remove all surface grit by dustmopping prior to stripping. The reason stripping is
required is usually to remove builders residues and adhesive that may have squeezed to the
surface at the butt joints. It is important not to use excessive amounts of water and not to strip the
floor prior to proper curing of the adhesive (if used). On fully floating (unglued) clip joint floors,
strip only small areas at a time using minimal water, virtually a dry strip is preferred.
Do Not Flood Mop Any Floating Floor. It’s the safest solution.
Method: Initial floor preparation (manual method)
Mix SLEDGEHAMMER floor stripper 1 part to 5 parts cold water (2Ltrs to 10ltrs) and wring out
mop until only just dripping. Mop apply no more than 40 sq. meters, then machine scrub with blue
pads (pay attention to removing residue when planks have bevelled edges) after 2 to 3 minutes
dwell time then pick up slurry with clean water rinse. Repeat rinsing the entire floor.
Automatic scrubber method:
Important: Do not use high performance black pads or regular black pads. Use brown or blue pads
to avoid harsh abrasive action.
Mix SLEDGEHAMMER floor stripper 1 part to 5 parts cold water. Apply with pads scrubbing and
water on half open (not flooding) position. Do not have vacuum operating. Allow only 2 to 3
minutes dwell time and then pick up with brushes scrubbing and vacuum on. When total floor is
stripped clean. Rinse with cold fresh water and NEUTRACLEAN 1 :100 again with clean pads and
squeegee down to ensure no residues.
Sealing and Protection
Research Products has recently developed a one product system that meets all the specification
requirements of floating floor manufactures and layers as well as our own self evaluation criteria.
SPARTACUS- Sealer Finish
This product has been developed to provide a medium/hard floor finish that shows excellent slip
resistance and high levels of adhesion to terrazzo, marble, vinyl, sheet vinyl and timber floors as
well as all types of floating floors. See product data sheet.
The advantages of SPARTACUS
x Low viscosity allows thin coats that ultimately dry quickly and create superior bonding to the
floor .
x Low thermal transfer, reduced heat when UHS burnishing generates less drag on equipment,
less black edges and burning.
Page 3 of 3
x
x
Excellent water and soil penetration resistance keeps floors looking cleaner longer- protects
glue and joints.
Less scratching due to medium hardness of film. Easy reparability under all speed
equipment.
Application Directions
Do not dilute SPARTACUS sealer finish. Dust mop carefully apply by only using poly-cotton
mops on floating floors. Too much polish gives poor adhesion and too much gloss on floating
floors and therefore does not look natural. Do not use fringe mops to apply polish . High traffic
areas should only require a maximum of three coats. There is no need to buff between coats.
How to apply
Add to clean wringer bucket and apply with a prewashed and damp poly-cotton mop that is
dipped only half way into the polish. Wring out so that no finish is dripping. Apply each coat
across the direction of the previous coat and allow at least 25 minutes between coats. Dull patches
will indicate improper drying and the floor will require stripping again. Keep second coat at least
100mm way from the edges.
Apply only three coats if natural look is required, more if wet look is required.
Maintenance
Daily mop or autoscrub the floor with SUPASTAR neutral pH cleaner/maintainer after dust
mopping or sweeping and removing debris.
Mopping Dilutions:
Normal Soilage
Heavy soilage
1 to 80 parts (cold) water (1/3 of cup)
1 to 60 parts (cold) water (1/2 of cup)
Autoscrubbing Dilutions
Normal Soilage
Heavy soilage
1 to 100 parts water (500ml to 50ltr)
1 to 80 parts water(700ml to50ltr)
There is no need to rinse after mopping or scrubbing using SUPASTAR
Burnishing the Floor (as required)
When using U.H.S gas equipment it is imperative that the speed is reduced to under 1500 RPM as
to not overheat the floor surface. Use a Blue Ice buffing pad which reduces frictional buildup and
removes less finish.
Warning: do not use champagne pads, these build up too much heat in the floor, using any
sealer finish on floating floors.
Important points to remember when maintaining a floating floor.
x Never use abrasive hand pads or steel wool to remove black scuff marks
x Never buff a scuff without pre-cleaning
x Remove scuffs with a cloth soaked in SUPASTAR at a dilution of 1 to 20 parts water.
*Australian Standard/New Zealand Standard 4586:1999. This standard states that all floors
must exceed an average reading of 0.40 on a level surface over a length exceeding 0.8 meters.
High Technology Chemistry and Cleaning Systems for the Carpet Maintenance and Sanitation
Industries
F:\Product Info Literature\Research Products\How to manual\rp_floatingfloors_1002.doc
Page 1 of 3
HOW TO TREAT SPOTS AND SPILLS
Professional Spotting Techniques
No carpet cleaner can guarantee total removal of every stain found on carpet. Fresh, relatively new
stains, are easier to remove than old, set ones. Old stains like urine, cordials, and deep coloured
juices actually dye the carpet and are impossible to remove. You can only expect to lighten the
intensity of the colour.
Improper treatment of stains by the home owner usually makes stains more difficult to remove.
For this reason, be honest with the customer, let them know that even professionals cannot
perform “miracles”. Such honesty will help eliminate misunderstandings regarding ability and
liability.
Contrary to popular belief most spotters should be used after a carpet is extracted. The reason
being that 95 - 98% of the stains will be removed by extraction cleaning, particularly if it is used as
a prespray and spotter, prior to extraction with your machine.
There is only one exception to this rule. On heavily impacted tar, grease, gum or candlewax, a
solvent spotter GREASE RELEASE should be used, prior to wet cleaning.
GREASE RELEASE is one of the few water soluble solvent spotters on the market so even if it is
used when the carpet is wet, it will activate although not as fast as on dry carpet.
Spotting Proceedure
Many chemical companies have made it extremely confusing and time consuming by printing
elaborate stain removal charts and lists of stains with the correct procedure for each one. We
believe this is the wrong way to approach stain removal as it does not encourage a learning
process of stain identification and classification and most importantly it does not present a
professional image. A carpet cleaner flicking through a stain removal chart in front of the customer
should be avoided at all costs.
The “RESEARCH PRODUCTS” Method
We have developed a very simple numbering system that lets you set your own fixed procedure in
dealing with stains, whether they are identified or not. By following the spotting system 1 through
to 4, you are assured that the stain won’t be made more difficult to remove and that the spotter
will be neutralised even if not completely rinsed from the fibres.
Important
It is the rinsing of any stain that ensures that it does not recur. Use a high volume of water in the
rinsing cloth or sponge for carpet tiles, as these show wick-back more noticeably than tufted or
Axminster carpet, no matter what fibre is used in construction.
Page 2 of 3
A daily spotting/rinsing programme with your cleaning staff ensure that deep cleaning frequency,
with extraction is extended so as to reduce overall cleaning costs.
Spotter Description
1) GREASE RELEASE
This is a high powered blended solvent, combined with emulsifiers and water solubilisers. It
contains no water, therefore will never set stains that are pH sensitive. Being water soluble it will
work even on wet carpet and will not spread the stain as will non water soluble spotters.
It’s aggressive action helps lift tar, chewing gum, some paints and lipstick. Being water soluble
GREASE RELEASE is very easily rinsed, therefore pulling out a higher proportion of stain. Always
use a spotting bottle- never use a trigger sprayer.
2) COFFEE BREAK
An acidic spotter used in the coffee and tannin stain removal process. It is an acidic spotter
designed to release the bond of acidic stains such as fruit juices, wine stains, etc. This spotter
should not be left in the carpet and either neutralised be alkaline spotter or rinsed, preferably both.
3) SENSATION
Possibly the largest used spotter in our range as it can be used as part of your general cleaning
procedures. It is the only spotter that can be added to SURGE as a booster on hard to clean loop
acrylic and nylon traffic lanes, air conditioning and “black bonds” around edges are removed by
SENSATION.
Spotting: Ideal alkaline spotter for protein stains like processed foods, gravy, eggs, and as well as
vomit and blood. Be careful on wool carpet to neutralise with
COFFEE BREAK and rinse carefully.
4) BROWNING TREATMENT
4As the name suggests, this product has been specifically developed for removing the browning
stains on flood damaged carpet. Yet, it has its place as a spotter as well for the removal of fruit
juice and medicine stains and as a final spotter to lighten pink and orange colours, soft drink stains
and the yellow of urine stains.
Remember this spotter can be left in the carpet and should not be rinsed. It is the only spotter with
a limited shelf life and should smell like sulphur. If no odour is liberated, product should be
discarded.
This system has been proven by thousands of carpet cleaners and reduces the number of spotters
required to obtain the best results.
Method of Application
To obtain the best results from your spotter system follow these rules:
1. Test spotters on inconspicuous area first.
2. Always blot up excess liquid with white towelling or scrape off excess of loose or sticky
matter.
3. On small spots (20 cent size) apply spotter by blotting with towelling. Slightly overspray
spotter around stain to remove the chance of ring forming and to reduce the “clean spot”
look.
a. On large stains always apply spotter to towel and gently wipe towards centre.
4. Check for stain transfer to towel, keep turning towel to absorb excess moisture. Never rub
the stain with towel or brush, as this causes pile distortion and can even untwist pile.
5. Extract, blot or rinse before moving to next spot.
Page 3 of 3
6. GREASE RELEASE should always be applied by towel except on gum, paint spots and
candlewax. If GREASE RELEASE is ever applied directly, it may delaminate rubber backed
carpet and solubilise the tar on Huega carpet.
7. .Never leave spotters in the carpet for more than a minute and always rinse. The exception
to this and BROWNING TREATMENT which is self neutralising and keeps on working
until it dries.
Precautions
1. Always test spotters or colourfastness behind a door - don’t forget bright reds, dark blues
and greens bleed easily,
2. Spotters are concentrated chemicals, some have poison labels and should not come into
skin contact.
3. Never mix spotters together prior to them being applied to the carpet, as toxic gases could
be liberated. BROWNING TREATMENT must be kept cool to minimise power loss. Only
carry enough with you for use on a daily basis.
4. Never smoke whilst using the spotters.
F:\Product Info Literature\Research Products\How to manual\rp_howtreatspotsspills_1002.doc
SOFT DRINK
URINE (FRESH)
ORANGE JUICE
TOMATO SAUCE
COFFEE / TEA
RED INK
GRASS
SYRUP
MEDICINES
OIL PAINT
LIPSTICK
CHEWING GUM
FOOD OILS
GREASE
CANDLE WAX
CRAYON
MARKING PEN
SHOE POLISH
**Most of these stains are processed food based.
* Most of these stains come from the ground and are liquids.
RED WINE
TAR
GENERAL FOOD SPILLS
CHEESE
CHOCOLATE
INK
BLUE/GREEN DYE
MILK
MAYONNAISE
BLOOD
VOMIT
EGGS
SENSATION**
COFFEE BREAK *
ALKALI SOLUTION
GREASE RELEASE
FROM THE GROUND
SOLUBLE
PROTEIN STAINS
STAINS
TANNIN STAINS
SOLVENT
3
STAINS
2
1
LANES
POPPING IN TRAFFIC
PLUS PREVENTS
MEDICINES
URINE AND
ORANGE JUICE
COLOUR FROM:
FINAL TRACE OF
USED TO REMOVE
BROWNING TREATMENT
CLEAR UP
BROWNING & COLOUR
4
CARPET STAINS SPOTTING STEPS 1 THROUGH 4

THE “HOW TO...”MANUAL

Transcription

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