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In response to the trend where people are
looking for more natural cosmetics GemmoNova is the first cosmetic ingredient
benefiting from both the ancient knowledge
linked to gemmotherapy and the modern
Bud Nest technology. The ingredient, with
its anti-ageing properties, is obtained from
safflower buds grown in a contaminationfree environment.
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photos: IMCD
P
ollution changes the whole
ecosystem and can pose a serious threat to human health
through pollutants in the soil, in the
water or in the air. It can alter plant metabolisms affecting crop growth and
yield which makes it difficult to harvest
completely pollution-free crops at
present. Bud Nest technology is a pollution-free cultivation technology for
renewable plant stocks. In a controlled
environment it facilitates cultivating
and harvesting of plants which are pesticide-free, fresh and rich in nutrients,
during a short period, and which are also free from disease and insects. Regardless of natural disasters such as
drought, flood and cyclones, the plants
can be cultivated all year round. And,
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as the plants are not affected by the
weather or the soil, they can maintain
the same quality, crop after crop, as
well as a similar content of compounds.
GemmoNova (PD), is the alliance of
gemmotherapy – a therapy with buds –
and Bud Nest technology in which safflower buds are grown in a contamination-free environment. This is a standardized safflower bud extract based
on water and propanediol.
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First of all screening in-vitro tests
were conducted to validate the product’s potential as an antioxidant, an
anti-allergenic, and more interestingly
its anti-ageing properties. Particularly
promising was its effect on pro-collagen type I.
In an ex-vivo study performed on
full human skin (dermis + epidermis)
skin explants were at first treated every
2 days during 10 days with a placebo
cream and a cream containing 3% of
GemmoNova (PD). After this, an immune-labelling with 2 antibodies (human anti-collagen I and anti-elastin)
was carried out. Image analysis by microscope enabled quantification of the
density of collagen I and elastin fibres
in the dermis. GemmoNova (PD) had a
positive effect on collagen I in the full
dermis and on elastin in the papillary
dermis. The cream with the active ingredient significantly increased the
collagen I density by 73 % compared
with the control. Immuno-labelling of
elastin is particularly visible on oxytalan and elaunin fibres in the papillary
dermis. After 10 days of treatment, the
cream induced a significant increase of
31% of the elastin density compared
with the control. These test results
showed the benefits of GemmoNova
(PD) as anti-ageing active and its
effects on the firmness and elasticity
of the skin.
In a complementary clinical study
to evaluate the anti-wrinkle and firming effects of a 2% GemmoNova (PD)
cream a panel of 32 mature and deeply
wrinkled women, aged from 45 to 60
applied the product twice daily on their
face over a period of 56 days. In one of
the two different evaluation techniques the skin’s mechanical properties on the cheeks were measured before and after treatment. Ballistometry
was chosen as the best technique to
substantiate the skin rebound. On average, GemmoNova (PD) increased
skin elasticity and firmness by 28 %.
The best result even showed an improvement of 68% for one volunteer.
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Secondly, the fringe projection technique to substantiate the
effect on deep crow’s feet wrinkles showed that GemmoNova (PD)
significantly reduced skin rugosity. The roughness due to ageing
was reduced by up to 41% and the wrinkle amplitude up to 19%.
Wrinkle area and volume were respectively decreased by 12% and
20% on average. One volunteer even showed an improvement of
52% on the wrinkle area and 79% on the wrinkle volume.
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Combining gemmotherapy and Bud Nest technology led to the
creation of GemmoNova by growing safflower buds, containing all
the power of the future plants in a concentrated form, in a contamination-free environment. Safflower buds were chosen because
thanks to their active compounds, such as proline or 8’-hydroxyarctigenin, anti-ageing properties could be expected. The different
steps in the efficacy evaluation of the active ingredient successively demonstrated the impact on elastin fibres, collagen I fibres and
their precursors, and the final benefits on skin firmness and elasticity, as well as the anti-wrinkle effect. The active ingredient is
thus capable of providing replenishment to mature women suffering of skin sagging.
1 Daniel Zohary and Maria Hopf, Domestication of plants in the Old World, third edition, Oxford:
University Press, 2000, p.211
2 Kim Eun-Ok, Analysis of Functional Compositions and Bone Proliferative Effects of GerminatedSafflower Seeds, Department of Food Science and Nutrition, Graduate School, Catholic University of Daegu, 2008, p.19–24
Additional information can be found on the Internet – see Internet box
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INSPIRED BY NATURE
Created for natural cosmetics
ECOCERT COMPLIANT
HYDREÏS
SYNER-GX
3 in 1 active ingredient
Soft-touch thickener
Repair effect
Restructuring
Viscosity accelerator
Stabilizes formulations
Moisturizing
Clinically tested
With a silky feel to the skin
100% natural and botanical
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Distributed by
IMPAG Import GmbH
Fritz-Remy-Straße 25
D-63071 Offenbach am Main
Tel.: +49 (0) 69 850 008 - 0
Fax: +49 (0) 69 850 008 - 90
E-Mail: [email protected]
Web: www.impag.de
IMPAG Group Country Offices
Switzerland/ Zurich – www.impag.ch
Germany/ Offenbach – www.impag.de
France / Nancy – www.impag.fr
Poland/ Warsaw – www.impag.pl
www.cossma.com
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